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  • Things Nowak Says
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  • Anthony's Apartment
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  • Radeon HD 7770 GHz Edition w/ 300 W power supply?
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  • SSD and hard drive config?
  • Smokey Attempts: PC On The Wall (Drawer)
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  • Toms' rants about Esports and CS:GO
  • Brother PC Build
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  • jmad2011's Blog
  • Child's Play
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  • † Tech Tips Christian Fellowship †
  • krishi's Blog
  • Where I post so I don't spam my statuses
  • Prastupok's Rants and Thoughts on life and computers.
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  • Cool idea for new office/super fun time
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  • FloRolf's incredible Blog
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  • Moving to the PC Master Race
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  • Need Help With GPU Choice
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  • Help, Want to make my first Gaming PC
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  • Need completely over kill pc NOWWWW!!!!
  • first gaming pc build
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  • PC Spec help
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  • Please help me i'm building my first pc and I need good part's for 1,500
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  • Best 2011-v3 motherboard
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  • Good price for selling a computer...
  • Tony Z's first pc
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  • Help me with my Stoomtrooper?
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  • My Dream PC
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  • A techy blog
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  • A random PC thoughts blog
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Found 12 results

  1. Hi! Recently, I noticed that when I was launching some intensive games/applications, such as AC Valhalla and Cinebench, the LEDs on my Drop CTRL either dim or turn off completely. This also happens with non-intensive games such as Minecraft or Valorant. I looked into it, and this seems to be a reoccurring problem for many Drop CTRL/ALT users. I know that using a power USB hub will fix this problem (hopefully) so I just want some recommendations for what one to get. Preferably sub $25 USD. All this will do is power by CTRL, so no need for more than one port. Also, I will be using a custom cable with this setup, so I want to make sure that it can supply that too. The cable is 3FT long, plus the USB hub. I would like the whole system to be kept under 9 ft if possible, so the USB hub should not have more that a 6ft cable. Thanks for any suggestions!
  2. So, I have 4 USB ports on my laptop, 2 USB 3.0 and 2 USB 2.0. I use my laptop as a desktop replacement so I need more than 4 ports. A while ago I bought this cheaper powered 4-port USB 2.0 hub (with external power), but if I plug in anything to more than 2 ports on it, the hub disconnects and windows gives me an error along the lines of "Usb device malfunction, not enough power something something" even though the USB hub is plugged in to AC power. I've tried plugging the USB hub into each of the 4 ports on my laptop. Why happen? Or is it just a shitty USB hub?
  3. AnuraqK

    Need Help Please

    I have a Behringer UCA222 audio interface connected to my PC http://www.music-group.com/Categories/Behringer/Computer-Audio/Audio-Interfaces/UCA222/p/P0A31# I use the RCA output on it to a Headphone Amp... Now can I use the headphone jack on the UCA222 for powered speakers (2.1)??? I tried it and it plays well... but will it damage anything... Because I believe the headphone out has a inbuilt amplifier and it will be amplifying already amplified speakers
  4. Hello, can you use a powered usb hub to power RPI's or other SBC's. Is there any easy way to power multiple SBC's easily because im a bit limited on plugs ( also im not a confident soldered so no soldering onto gpio pins etc) Would any of these work? Much thanks, Scrub
  5. the crunchiumo

    Swan m10

    Hey guys I'm looking to purchase a pair of Swan M10. Any of you guys know if they are good? They seem like a great price to performance option. If you guys have any experience with them let me know. Much appreciated. Also, I want to plug this pair of powered speakers into the back of my pc motherboard output. Would it be best to turn windows volume up to a 100 and control it from the speakers? If not, how would I go about setting up the audio output for line level.
  6. Hello! I just built my first system, all new parts, but it doesn't do anything when I press the power button. The system is not complete, graphics card hasn't arrived yet, but here's the parts list: CPU: Ryzen 5 3600 Mobo: Asus Prime X470 pro RAM: G.Skill Trident-Z Royal 3000Mhz cl16 2x8GB Storage: Kingston a2000 1TB m.2 nvme ssd PSU: Corsair RM 650x Case: Lian-Li Lancool 2 I just wanted to testboot the parts that I already have, because there are some parts that are closing in on their 1 month after purchase. The motherboard is sure getting power, because the rgb lights up as soon as I flip on the psu. I tried reconnecting the powerswitch connector every way, also tried shorting out the pins, didn't work. Reconnected the power cables, reseated the ram sticks, didn't work. As a last resort I pulled the graphics card from my flatmates pc and put it in my rig, still didn't work. Might be worth to note that the mobo was an OEM part. I have three possibilities in mind: 1. The mobo has a case of DOA 2. maybethe cmos battery is dead. 3. The board might have been sitting in the sellers storage since before the bios updates, so the bios might not have been flashed to support ryzen 3000 series (though i don't know if that could cause a no power on). Please, help me out!
  7. I have been searching for a while and can't seem to find any powered bookshelf-style speakers that have Chromecast built-in. I would like to replace my current desktop speaker setup with a pair of speakers that have Chromecast built-in and also have other wired inputs that I can use to hook up to my desktop computer. I am finding it both funny and annoying that the marketing materials Google has for speakers with Chromecast built-in look like bookshelf speakers, but I can't find any that exist. https://i.imgur.com/PM359ZT.png I have clicked through to every manufacturer listed from the following page and none of them have this kind of solution. https://www.google.com/chromecast/built-in/audio/ I want to clarify that the reason I'm not currently considering a Chromecast Audio is that I would hope that speakers with Chromecast built-in would automatically switch sources when I cast to them, and if I used a Chromecast Audio I would have to manually switch sources. These look good but I can't find them for sale anywhere. Raumfeld Stereo M Wireless Streaming Bookshelf Speakers (Pair, White) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0113OR33I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_LzXkAbCDZGFH1 EDIT: Maybe this is the best solution? http://a.co/c1Z8CmC
  8. Xhaku

    Internal Speakers

    Hey guys, I was wondering if there are any PC speaker that i can power with my computer powersupply and if somebody could link me to a product. Thanks in advance -Xhaku
  9. So, unfortunately, It seem's I won't be able to get my hands on $2200 for a pair of Adam A8Xs by black friday/cyber monday Maybe next year I'll have enough, but I need to buy studio monitors pretty soon because sometimes next year I will probably be moving, and I want to downsize my massive 14 speaker system to two studio monitors. (some of you know what my speaker system looks like right now ) So I'm looking for two 8" studio monitors that look good, have decent sound, and cost less than $400ea Since I'm going to buy them locally (the music stores in my area have the speakers priced exactly the same as amazon) I have narrowed down my options to these three: Option 1) Mackie MR8MK3 - $300ea My thoughts: Awesome looks, a few reviews complaining about the high end, but overall seems positive. Only 85W though, not sure if that's enough to fill my large room with sound... http://tomleemusic.ca/168890 Option 2) Behringer B3031a - $360ea My thoughts: It's not a brand well known for studio monitors, but the reviews on the web seem promising, they look good, and they are 285W each! https://www.long-mcquade.com/12465/Pro_Audio_Recording/Studio_Monitors/Behringer/B3031A_-_285w_Active_Monitor.htm Option 3) Yorkville YSM-8 - $290ea My thoughts: These look a bit bland IMO, not sure If I like them too much, also they are only 95W. https://www.long-mcquade.com/17951/Pro_Audio_Recording/Studio_Monitors/Yorkville_Sound/YSM8_High_Performance_Powered_Studio_Reference_Monitor.htm Please help me choose Thanks! PS- I also considered the Yamaha HS8s but too many people say you NEED a subwoofer with them to get the low frequencies, and I'm looking for a bit more bass than that, not a perfectly flat sound signature.
  10. #MyIntelBuild Contest To celebrate PAX East, Intel is running a contest from 2/27 – 3/13, through Twitter, Instagram, and Vine. How Do You Enter? Share pictures, Vines, or Instagram videos of your favorite Intel-powered PC build(s) using the hashtag #MyIntelBuild. You can enter as many times as you would like, using as many Intel-powered builds as you would like - whether you built it yourself, or it is being showcased at PAX East. What could you win? One of three (3) Intel Core i7 processors. Sorry to disappoint, but this contest is for residents of the US and Canada only. Stay tuned to this thread for more details about Intel's presence at PAX East...
  11. So im looking to get some good powerful speakers. I am stuck between the Audioengine A5+ and the Kanto Yumi. I am leaning toward the A5+'s currently. They are a higher wattage and can get louder, which might be good to use for a party or something. They also seem to have a very good reputation. The Yumi's have more features though like bluetooth and a better remote. They will mostly be sitting on my desk plugged into my computer though so im not sure how much of a benefit the bluetooth or higher wattage would be. The Kanto Yumi's are on sale on Massdrop right now for $240 at the lowest price. The A5+ is $400 on amazon I am not sure if i should wait to see if the A5+ goes on sale on massdrop again (or somewhere else), but I dont want to wait forever. $160 is a lot to save. Can anybody vouch for either of these speakers?
  12. Need help finding an external drive, case replacement that fits, good quality! Hello LTT, Well then a pretty straight to the point title. So yes I'm including some below images of course. Basically, and originally I purchased an: iOmega eGO RPHD-UG3 1.5TB external hard drive ...several years ago now, and I'm starting to realize that some capital £ $ spent on this drive was indeed wasted especially in regard to the case. As you will examine in the images, (specifically the 3rd one) the case is of a terrible plastic hard slot pin design which I had to wreck in order to get into Ridiculous! Another reason I now think that this drive is/was a swindle, is the fact that, you open it up and it's a Seagate drive, the company/corporation don't even make their own drives but with the advertising of the drive, they almost make you think they do. It really is a shoddy case you'll see! The best thing about it was probably the supposed "shock protection" that came from the rubber exoskeleton strech cover. Everything else is poor, I think I actually bought the drive thinking the case was metal because of it's appearance. Trick 'o' the eye. AVOID buying drives in cases like these. I would've been better off buying a drive on it's own, then buying my own case for it. Needless to say it would have been cheaper! Lesson learned! So what external cases do you suggest? Metal prefered, anything that would help it survive an average drop please. I want to also point out that eventually the drive is going into a rig of mine however this is way far in the future (rearranging funds). But just so you know, take this also as an indication that I don't want to spend much of course. [P.S and no I haven't yet searched and researched, myself online. (tired going to bed).
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