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I play last of us and its kinda louder coil whine when gpu load even in menu and i had sudden pc shutdowns too was that my psu bad? Need help My specs I5 11400 Z590F strix mobo 32 gskill tridentz rgb Gpu strix rx 6700xt While play gpu Hotspot go like 68 to 70c cpu like 55 to 58c maybe psu tripping? Also i heard that Thor 850w kinda quite model but to me its kinda louder i can literally can hear same coil while through my earphone too that's really weird

Hi everyone, sorry for the long post, but plaese help: i got a hold of an HP EliteDesk 800 G2 Tower PC (Form Factor: Microtower) and while the CPU (i7-6700) is Great (i think), there is no GPU inside, the memory is only 4G (i guess DDR4-2133 SDRAM, need to verify) and worst of all - the PSU is only 280W. a lot of study tought me that i can't replace this PSU because it is unique and has special connections with the motherboard. obviously - this PC was not intented to serve as a gaming rig, yet i found that a 1050ti requires 300w and when i googled for this problem - most of the opinions says that this card will work even on a 250w PSU. now i tried to cut as much as i could on the wattage consumption, i took out the HDD and installed SSD, i'm planning to disconnect the DVDRW as well. as of now i temporarily installed a crappy GeForce GT 610 anyway, i am aiming at the 1050ti, wondering about the 1060.. and wanted to get more opinions about what i can and cannot do, what is a good investment and what will creat a bottleneck, do i need to upgrade my system memory? i found out that the motherboard Memory: "Transfer rates up to 2133 MT/s" am i limited to a small form factor GPU or not? can i add an external PSU only for the gpu? thanks i am addind a few pics for additional information. and this DATASHEET: http://www.hp.com/sbso/hpinfo/newsroom/HPElitePC2015/AMSHPEliteDesk800G2TowerPCDatasheet.pdf

Hi everyone, I have the BIOSTAR TB85 motherboard with LGA 1150 socket, and on the motherboard there are two male molex connectors labeled "auxpwr1" and "auxpwr2" and I don't exactly know if I should plug in a female molex cable into it and risk maybe shorting something. Does anyone know what those ports are for? Thanks for your help!

So I received three graphics cards lately, and I need help finding prices for them (What they're worth, what people are selling them for, etc.). Two of the GPUs are MSI's Radeon RX 570 ARMOR 8G OC, and the other card is one that I'm not exactly sure what it is, but I do know that it's a PowerColor RX 470 with 4GB of VRAM. There are pictures attached of the graphics cards. Thanks for your help!

This is a 850w SMPS by Deepcool So I started by connecting Motherboard cable and CPU Cable, I have i7 12700k So I connected only one CPU cable for now but I don't know If I should connect 2 for the CPU or not cause my mother board has 2 ports. After that I connected The SATA cable from them old SMPS only which has fan controller and 1x 2TB HDD and 1x 500GB SSD Connected to the Bottom left port for SATA. After That My Graphic CARD has 3x 8pin PCI-E ports (Asus ROG Strix 3070ti) I didn't knew in which order to connect the 8pin PCI-E Cables So I just connected in left to right order to SMPS and GPU. After That I turned on the PC It didn't turn on at first it just blinked for a sec after that I started to unplug one Cable at a time so when I removed SATA cable it ran but SMPS Fan was not moving I don't know if it should keep rotating or not but PC was running I removed both the HDD and SSD and then I connected back the SATA power cable and fans were running fine but HDD and SSD were gone I tried several times to reconnect them but didn't work. So My Questions here are: 1. Did I connect all the cables right. 2. I don't know My GPU is safe in the order of cable connection as it is running fine for now. 3. Should I connect both the CPU cables from the power supply on the motherboard. 4. I don't know what has broken My motherboard SATA ports or SMPS SATA ports as burning smell was coming form the the SSD and HDD. 5. Also Do I need to get a SMPS replacement in this case but when I changed back to the new SATA cable and connected the fans they are running fine but one of the fans has now burnt LED strip so its just rotating not glowing. 6. Is it safe for other computer parts in this condition cause my PC is running fine and everything else is operatable other than SSD, HDD and LED strip from the fan. I ran few games after completing the setup.

Hi im Popppy and i have an issue with my Monitors I like to Play CSGO and record some stuff just for the Fun of it but i have a 2 monitor setup the main one is 27 inches and the 2nd one is 1080p wich i use vertically y play CSGO on 4:3 1280 x 1024 and when i open the game every other window on my second monitor Moves i tried switchin to NATIVE res but i dont like it is there any Fix for this?

So I've been dealing with this for a while now, a few months or so. But sometime during the summer I did an nvidia driver update with geforce experience then the choppiness started. It appears in games and videos, it's only visual. I've tried quite a few things, reformatted at least twice, but it always starts again when I update my drivers. It doesn't do it when the driver is removed, or even during the mid-way point of a clean install update through geforce. The best way I can illustrate the choppiness is by drawing swirls in a drawing program, here's some pics in paint for reference. I know my way around a pc for the most part, but I'm by no means at the level of some/most of you guys so figured I'd finally ask for help instead of just smacking my head against a wall and not finding any fixes on ye olde innernette. Thanks in advance. PC Specs: Windows 10 64bit ver 22H2 Intel(R) Core(TM) i7-6700K CPU @ 4.00GHz, 4008 Mhz, 4 Core(s), 8 Logical Processor(s) NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1070 BIOS Version/Date American Megatrends Inc. 1302, 2018-03-15 BIOS Mode Legacy Mobo STRIX Z270E GAMING RAM 32gb Trident Z RGB at 3000mhz (4 slots of 8gb) OS Drive: Samsung 960 EVO 250gb The picture with "clean" loops is midway through a clean update of my drivers, the other one is basically my new normal.

So my shiny new RTX 3090 came in today and I went through the process of peeling and drooling over how amazing it looks. Pulled out my old Gigabyte 3090 and added the extra cable to my PSU, then fired up my computer and nothing. Ok so I power cycled it and it came on. Then I registered it through Amory Crate and not 30 seconds later my video cut out. My computer was still on but just the video died. Reset again...nothing. Reseated the card checked the cables and powered it back on with minimal peripherals (one monitor, network, keyboard and mouse). Still nothing. Literally nothing, no boot screen or anything. Contacted ASUS and they sent me to Best Buy. Anybody have any idea where I can get it repaired or any other trouble shooting ideas? I am game for anything. I feel like if I send it to ASUS they will just try to refund my money and I can not return it from where I bought it because I purchased it on StockX...heads up they DO NOT ACCEPT RETURNS!!! I will say that again. STOCKX DOES NOT OFFER RETURNS!!!! I am willing to ship it to a reputable and verified business to have it repaired if need be. System Hardware: EVGA 1200w P2 PSU Asus ROG Strix B-550 XE Motherboard 32 GB G.Skill Trident Z 3200mhz DDR4 RAM 2TB Sabrent Rocket NVME Ryzen 9 5900X Gigabyte RTX3090

Hello, recently i noticed that my ram is a bit high than usual, Usually my ram usage stays about 700 MB usage without any programs open. I tried killing background processes but it barely makes a difference. I'm now concerned beacuse Windows tells me more often to close some programs beacuse ram is low, and even worse program crashes, (good thing no bsods) also despite only having chrome open and GPU tweak monitor which i really don't pay attention it. So i decided to do a Memory check and according to windows everything is fine. Any suggestions?? THX

Hello, 3 weeks ago my GPU (MSI GTX 980) was turned off due to a power outage. I came home from work and turned on my pc for about an hour, then went to nap. an hour later my pc wont turn on. i have tested all parts using a text bench and it is definitely the GPU that is the issue. when I have the GPU plugged in, pressing the power button puts power through the PC as my Ram lights up, my CPU fan spins and my GPU's light turns on but all of this only happens for about .02 seconds. then it all turns off instantly. i have not been able to get my PC to post or even turn on for more than 1 second. my CPU (Ryzen 3 3100G) Has no onboard graphics. but i know the issue is my GPU is my GPU fully dead? can i open it up and replace something to make it work again, and why did it only stop working after i personally rebooted it hours after the blackout?

Ok so to get things going off here are the specs Evga 750 watt bronze Gigabyte b365 dsh3 Wifi Teamgroup 2400mhz gold/black ram Segate barracuda 2 TB ST Intel core i5-9400F Asus gt 1030 Phoenix OC This is my first build lucky for me nothing went wrong when I built it/installed windows. The issue is that the last thing I did was try to pit my computer to sleep then within seconds pressed the power button. Now everytime I try to turn it on, it stays on for a second can post if I smash the del key but when it goes for boot it just dies and resets itself. I dont know if it's the hard drive if itals a corrupted windows file but I know it's not power supply or cpu at least. I have tried to reinstall the ram and also switch data ports for the boot drive but nothing seems to work. Any ideas ?

Hi everyone, I am looking for a new monitor and to make a long story short I have now waited 3 months for the 4K monitor I want with no delivery date in sight, the same is true for 3 other possible 4K displays I want... Therefore I am wondering if it would be worth to upgrade my current 1440p monitor to a newer model? Since the one I currently have is a Acer 27" LED Predator G-Sync XB270HU that I bought in 2015. Since the resolution will be the same, and since it is has to notice a difference from 165 hz to 180 or even 240hz (Plus I dont care to much about refresh rate as long as I have 144) the difference for me should be within the colors of the display and the range of colors it would be able to display. Since my current monitor is 6 years old I was wondering if it would be worth it? I will be using the monitor for both content creation and gaming. Sincerely, Simon

Hey, i really need your help. Recently i bought a g815 keyboard and my F1 doesnt wanna bind anywhere, in csgo i cant bind F1 anywhere, on discord i cant bind F1 anywhere, its weird, even when i have the lighting mode "ECHO press" ON, the key itself doesnt LIGHT up and all the other keys do, i know for sure the key is working, because whenever i try and pres shift, or alt and F1 the key suddenly lights up, idk what to do... please help.. im really desperate. EDIT: in windows, whenever i press F1 it doesnt even bring up the "help menu in the browser for example, really dont know whats happening, because im 100% sure that the key is working.

Hello all, Hope you're doing well! So I recently bought a gaming monitor and I've been facing this Blacklight bleeding issue, I know it's an IPS panel but is this normal? Should I be concerned?

As said in the title I managed to buy a RX 6800XT (ASUS TUF Gaming AMD Radeon RX 6800 XT to be precise) through the verified actual gamer program on lttstore.com. I'm really happy about that (even though I realise the GPU is very much overkill), but since I haven't built a pc before I thought I might come here for some help/guidance. I'd like to buy these components by the time the GPU arrives (hopefully in the next month or so). I have made a list of parts that I'm considering to pair the 6800XT with, but would like to ask y'all whether I should really change out some parts before buying. Will include some thoughts down below; do correct me if I'm being stupid. I tried to look for parts that'd serve me for quite a while, though my outset is that the GPU should be (one of) the last part(s) that I'd need to upgrade down the line. I'll include the GPU in the list below for the total cost. Budget (including currency): around €2200,- including monitor, peripherals and the GPU that's on the way. Country: Netherlands Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Mainly gaming; aiming for 1440p 100+Hz for a few years to come due to the overkill GPU. I'd like to be able to play games like the Hitman, COD, Watchdogs, GTA, and Tomb Raider series, as well as some battle royale type games and Hearts of Iron 4. Possibly want to do some light video-editing, though that's a long ways off for now. Other details I'm currently using a 8 years old laptop; Intel i5-3337U, AMD Radeon HD 8500M/8700M with 2GB VRAM - upgraded the RAM to 16GB and the 2,5" Hard drive to a SATA 2,5" SSD a few years back. Have a Logitech M705 mouse (M-R0073) and I think I'd need to replace that as well for a quicker one. I tend to currently use either Geforce Now or my Xbox One for gaming, but can't get anywhere close to the performance I'd like to be at obviously. Parts list (researched with PCPartpicker and tweakers.net): CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600XT 3.8 GHz 6-Core Processor (€244,95) Wanted to go with the 3600X, but the tray version of that is €229,- and the boxed version €269,-, so this made more sense to me / upgrade path to 5000 series down the line when prices normalise (in a few years). Motherboard: Asus TUF GAMING B550M-PLUS (WI-FI) (€138,00) Looked for a B550 with 4 RAM slots, Wifi 6, 2,5Gbps LAN, mainly for future viability. Memory: Crucial Ballistix 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 CL16 Memory (€103,90) Good RAM, right? Storage: Crucial P5 500 GB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive (€58,-) For OS. Storage: Seagate Barracuda Compute 2 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (€51,90) Should be plenty of game storage for now. Video Card: Asus Radeon RX 6800 XT 16 GB Video Card (€988,64) Already bought on lttstore.com. Case: Silverstone FARA R1 ATX Mid Tower Case (€48,04) Not too big of a case with good airflow; looked at Master Cooler Q300L before, but airflow seemed like it could be an issue there. Power Supply: Cooler Master MWE GOLD V2 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply (€105,95) 750W is recommended for the GPU by Asus; wanted to top that a bit / hopefully this PSU will serve me for quite some time. Case Fan: be quiet! Pure Wings 2 87 CFM 120 mm Fan (2x €12,95) Seemed silent and I definitely want enough cooling. Case Fan: be quiet! Pure Wings 2 61.2 CFM 140 mm Fan (2x €11,28) Same as above. Other cables: Akasa PWM fan splitter (2x € 5,95) To account for the extra fans and lack of headers on the mobo. Monitor: Lenovo G27q-20 1440p 165Hz (€299,-) Should last quite a while I hope. Monitor Arm: Deltaco GAM-040 (€35,97) Would like to mount the monitor on side of my desk; needs to be able to swing 90 degrees horizontally. Keyboard: Logitech K270 Wireless Standard Keyboard (€28,35) Pretty basic, but I don't really know what would be a good budget keyboard that does have the numpad and is preferably wireless. Mouse: Logitech G305 Wireless Optical Mouse (€42,95) I prefer wireless; seemed like an okay gaming mouse to me, though I do have large hands. Total: €2206,01 Prices include shipping and taxes. Sorry for the long post; hope y'all can help me out a bit.

This is my parts list: https://newegg.io/04327cd I have been told that the CPU I have is last gen but will that hurt my gameing/LIGHT editing performance?

Budget (including currency): $1,000 USD Befor Monitor Country: USA Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Moded Minecraft, Moded GTA 5 (Like 5M or LSPDFR), War Thunder, World Of War Ships Other details (existing parts lists, whether any peripherals are needed, what you're upgrading from, when you're going to buy, what resolution and refresh rate you want to play at, etc): I will be buying this in about 3-4 ish days My res and refresh is 1440p@165Hz My newegg pc parts list is https://newegg.io/04327cd

So the other day I was playing on my pc and my pc got a windows error and when I got to the boot screen my pc froze so I decided to wipe my dad and I have the same problem please help me I don't know what to do

I have a Radeon RX 5500 XT on back order at : https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1543408-REG/gigabyte_gv_r55xtgaming_oc_8gd_radeon_rx_5500_xt.html (Will take 2-4 weeks to get in stock) Should I cancel that for a : https://www.newegg.com/msi-radeon-rx-5500-xt-rx-5500-xt-mech-8g-oc/p/N82E16814137488?Item=9SIA2F8B404365 That is in stock? Could somone please help

If someone could give me a quick rundown on this place, that would be much appreciated

Budget (including currency): $2000 roughly Country: Australia Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Main Stream Games Hey Guys, it’s been a long time since I have done a built and my old 7 year rig has finally kicked the bucket. Now I did a very uneducated built on pc part picker for a new gaming PC but I come to you for any advise/ potential saving I can do for my new build. The main purpose of this rig will be for gaming and hanging out in discord with mates. No streaming. No recording, just plain gaming. Main thing is I have a 165 refresh rate monitor and want to use that potential. I will also be reusing the case listed below from my old rig and the power supply unless you think I should also upgrade that. please see the list below on what I was thinking of. PCPartPicker Part List: https://au.pcpartpicker.com/list/fphyyK CPU: Intel Core i5-12600K 3.7 GHz 10-Core Processor ($409.00 @ BPC Technology) CPU Cooler: EVGA CLC 280 113.5 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($79.00 @ BPC Technology) Motherboard: MSI MAG Z690 TOMAHAWK WIFI ATX LGA1700 Motherboard ($375.00 @ JW Computers) Memory: Corsair Vengeance 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-4800 CL40 Memory ($235.10 @ Amazon Australia) Storage: Samsung 970 Evo Plus 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($149.00 @ BPC Technology) Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce RTX 3070 LHR 8 GB GAMING OC Rev 2.0 Video Card ($828.50 @ Umart) Case: In Win 805 Infinity ATX Mid Tower Case (already own) Power Supply: Corsair RM 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply (already own) Total: $2075.60

I'm currently using a Samsung Galaxy S7 as I've been for many years, but now I need to replace it because its screen turns green and gets really slow & blurry at low brightness levels, it gets pretty hot rather quickly (over 70°C according to CPU-Z), battery life is pretty bad (charge every day) and its earpiece is malfunctioning (I can barely hear the other person speaking even at max volume, I need to use the loud speaker to hear people properly!) and people on the other end of the line complain that they have great trouble hearing me in phone calls. I live in Portugal, in a small portuguese island region and smartphone availability is extremely limited (basically only iPhones or Samsung flagships exist here, no Pixels are or ever will be sold here and I've never seen any recent Sony flagship for sale either) and I have worrisome cataracts in both of my eyes, plenty of eye floaters and am currently trying to treat a persistent inflammation of my eyes and chronic dryness - so a large, bright and sharp display would really help me see well without much discomfort. I've had lots of trouble with Samsung phones in the past especially due to their really slow, buggy software, apps crashing often and the utter lack of updates & security patches yet I did consider the Z Fold 4 and was waiting for its announcement to decide - at 1979€ for the 512GB model, and with no good preorder offers or discounts, I can't justify spending this much on a phone that's supposedly very fragile and whose battery isn't particularly exemplar. I thought then that the iPhone 14 Pro Max might be a good choice (still a 1600€+ phone for the 512GB model) but I've heard Apple is going to raise their phones price by over 150$ (which is 100€+ in Europe), that VPNs aren't really secure on iOS and that they want to show ads on more and more of their first party apps which is, for such a steep price, quite disappointing and unwelcomed for me (Apple has been getting a lot of bad press as of late and I'm thinking they're not trustworthy either). I really don't know what to do, and I've been avoiding Chinese brands due to concerns with personal data such as email, banking, remote access to cameras and other sensitive information possibly being stolen, exploited or something horrendous like that. So, please, what phone might work for me? Display size and quality, performance, cameras and battery life are key and I'd like a flagship phone experience, for sure, but I don't want to overpay for something if an alternative exists with better specifications and at a cheaper price - I really wanted the Z Fold 4 to be great and more affordable (would be easier for me to use when unfolded for my eyes), though it really isn't that kind of phone and it just sucks so much for me as I can't wait for a Z Fold 5. Sorry for the long post and possible bad English :(!

Budget (including currency): 50,000PHP Country: Philippines Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Mainly media consumption, and low profile games such as Dota 2 or Crossfire Other details (existing parts lists, whether any peripherals are needed, what you're upgrading from, when you're going to buy, what resolution and refresh rate you want to play at, etc): The parts I've picked and the total are in the images, I'm upgrading from a Dell Optiplex I don't know which one it is. And also can the ryzen 5700g handle 144hz? I will probably buy the parts at the end of July or at October. This is my first time building please help me.

So I built my PC and made the mistake of assuming a HDD would be good enough and soon found out it wasn't. I've just installed a SSD and cloned my boot HDD (C) drive and tried to follow instructions on making the SSD as the boot drive but in my bios it says that my m.2 ssd is the windows boot manager(it couldn't be, it's too slow...) I tried to boot from the new SSD but it brought up the screen as shown below. My C drive is the HDD, doesn't that mean it's the boot drive and after cloning etc shouldn't I be able to boot from the SSD? Any help would be appreciated. If you could give simple step by step guides on how to fix it, that would be a bonus.. (I'm autistic and need things simple.. thanks.

My computer just refused to post at one point. I've been using it for around six months now (GPU much older - maybe a month after launch). Not OCed. GPU slightly undervolted to keep noise in check. Noctua NH-L9i 17XX cooler. The board has four diagnostic LEDs. When I hit the power button (one exception I'll list later) the CPU LED turns for, then the RAM LED turns, then the GPU LED turns red, and then the CPU LED turns on immediately as the RAM led switches off and almost immediately does a fade-out kind of switching off (like how a filament bulb will switch off). The exception is if I remove the EPS cable, in which case the CPU LED stays on. Things I've done so far: 1) Clear CMOS, checked cables, connections, reseated RAM. 2) All parts in place switch on - CPU fan powers up. GPU light powers up, no signals, and then switches off after LED sequence. 3) No GPU switch on - CPU fan powers up, VGA signal, switches off after LED sequence. 4) Flashed BIOS to F6, F11, and F20 versions through Q BIOS Plus with no CPU/RAM in place (renaming the file to gigabyte.bin) and did above steps after flash completion and CPU/RAM installation, same result. 5) Flashed BIOS to F6, F11, and F20 versions through Q BIOS Plus with no RAM just CPU in place (renaming the file to gigabyte.bin) and did above steps after flash completion and CPU/RAM installation, same result. 6) Flashed BIOS to F6, F11, and F20 versions through Q BIOS Plus with CPU/RAM in place (renaming the file to gigabyte.bin) and did above steps after flash completion and CPU/RAM installation, same result. The exception is when I try boot with EPS cable removed. Then the CPU light just stays on. What irks me is how the CPU LED trails off instead of switching off. I'm planning on taking the system to check with a different CPU on next working day, but wondering if anyone knows what the issue could be. I've embedded video of 'full system' switch on LED behaviour. My specs - A 12700K on a Gigabyte Aero G DDR4 running 2x 3600MHz TeamGroup 32GB sticks, and a Gigabyte Vision 3080 (10GB, no LHR), and a Sabrent 2TB PCIE Gen 4 SSD.