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Found 15 results

  1. My 5 year old laptop that I still use with some upgrades (specs in sig) has always been an enormous fingerprint magnet. The entire body is a glossy dark blue plastic that does not do well with hand oils. I have very oily skin, so after I use it for about 3 seconds the entire thing looks really gross, not to mention becoming uncomfortable to use. So I was thinking I want to paint the whole thing, possibly with Plasti-Dip, simply because it's going to be quite a project and I'd like to be able to peel it off if something goes terribly wrong. However I've never worked with it before so my question is once it's painted will that give it the matte, less fingerprint prone effect that I'm looking for? I honestly have no idea what I'm doing here so does anyone have any recommendations?
  2. Hi, I want to mod my PC with Black-Blue color. I saw many repaint modding video's using plasti dip for case, parts, and armors, but not PCB. I want to paint the PCB of my GPU's back (unarmored), since I live in tropical country the humidity is a bit high and rust can hit my components very easily. I think the paint can protect it from rusting and give it a better looking, but is it safe? Can it damage the component? Thank you, and sorry for my bad English.
  3. Hey fellas (and ladies), I was thinking about making some pretty sick modifications to a case that I'm getting soon. Most of you probably know about the Corsair Carbide 400C Mid ATX Case. If not, here's the link. Anyways, I'm thinking that I can pull off a slick look if I were to paint the PSU shroud white. To accomplish this, I hope to take out the shroud and spray paint it. (Preferably Plasti Dip) Now, I'm no expert in case modifications, especially in this area, and I need help figuring out what spray paint to buy. This is where you guys come in. What spray paint would you recommend, and could you shoot me a link to the page where I can buy it? (Amazon, in high preference. I have an Amazon Prime account, so I can get free shipping with it rather than paying an arm and a leg for S/H.) I'm thinking of painting the shroud white, along with a couple of other parts. I'm going to attempt to use the same paint and apply it to my GPU heatsink, along with my RAM heatsinks. All of these will be in extremely good care, as I'm not looking to waste any money; I will be extremely delicate and very precise in how I manage this modification. Thanks, in advance, guys! I appreciate you all who take the time and help others when you could be out ignoring everyone's problems and worrying about your own lives.
  4. I am looking for someone to help me paint my case just white. It's a h440 green right now but looking to paint it a h440 white "Inverted" Must be in the vancouver area and will pay for painting services
  5. Hey! I saw Linus's plasti dip video when it came out, and I've been thinking about it ever since. I got one of those sweet stealth XFX R9 280's, and I love it, except for the fact that it just kinda... blends in with the black motherboard. Pair that with the smoked window on my H440, and you simply can't see it at all. So, I decided to grab a can of white plasti dip at the local hardware store and tear down the GPU. I gave each black part about 5 coats of dip, and it turned out, I think, quite nice. The matte plastic got a kind of "orange peel" texture to it, which looks really cool! Next step: Interior lighting.
  6. I'm trying to decide what colour to paint my GPU (G1 Gaming 980). I've already Plasti Dipped it once, but I'm not happy with how it turned out. So far, I'm thinking orange and white (LMG Colours), blue and white (my system's colours), or pink (Linus Edition). What do you guys think? It's not just the colours I'm doing LMG style. I'm going to try to get everyone at LMG to sign/decorate it as well as my case side panel and RAM. Thanks for any thoughts!
  7. Can I mod the 295x2 shroud (Only silver part, not black part) with plasti dip without getting the paint to melt or something cause GPUs aren't the coolest things to plasti dip.. Please let me know, this is the first time I'm going to mod a PC part.
  8. It took a few days to post this because I was busy doing nothing. What I Plasti Dip'd White: Gigabyte G1 GAMING GTX 980 Intel Stock Cooler Round Asus Motherboard Heatsink Thingy Behind The Graphics Card NZXT H440 Fan Intake Grilles The total price of this mod was about $45 for thermal compound and the can of Plasti Dip. Damn computer shop charged me over $20 for 3.5G of Arctic Silver 5. What do you guys think? Pics: Plasti Dip'd Bits - Album on Imgur
  9. So I made a thread about this back in September, but that got almost no love. So I'm back, with a clearer vision of what I want, and more uncertainties. What I'd like to achieve is a black and *insert attractive colour here* build, but the Z87-OC Force hardly fits in with other components that have picked out as an upgrade to my current setup. What I was thinking I could do is get some Plasti Dip, pull of the PCI-E and RAM slots along with the heat spreaders, and then get rid of the orange accents. But I'm sure that process would be extremely difficult, and might even need some re-soldering. So I'm looking for an alternative. So, would using an old rag/other fabric material suffice as a barrier to prevent the Plasti Dip from getting to the PCB? And how many coats of Plasti Dip would be appropriate? If you guys have any, "more professional" ideas that would be easier and/or end with a better result, than I'd love to know about them. Cheers! Edit: And once again I am still awake when it is almost 1:30 am, so I'll be back in about 7-9 hours.
  10. Ok, so I tried to paint a logo on the drive bay cover of my case. I cut the logo out of a projecter transparency and used Elmer's craft bond spray glue to stick the stencil to the cover. The logo didn't work and I peeled it off (i used plasti dip). But the problem is, the glue left a residue on the drive bay cover and goo gone won't take it off. So my question is, what should it do now?
  11. Hi, today Ill get my new GPU Sapphire Vapor-X R9 290, and I want to spray it red, so I bought red plastiDip with it. The main question for me is, how to spray back plate letters (vapor-x). Im thinking about classic wide tape and use knife (my father has some special knifes like scalpels) and cut out the letters, but I want to ask you if somebody has some better and easier technique, as I might scratch (cut to) the backplate. Thanks.
  12. A few weeks ago I bought some cans of black plasti dip for the wheels on my car and got some leftover so I decided to dip the shiny bezels on my LG 21'' and Qnix 27'' monitors. Today it ocurred to me that I could use the Plasti Dip on the fingerprint magnet that is the back of the LG G2, so I googled to see how easy it was to remove the back cover and as it turned out, it is a piece of cake. One other advantage of doing this is that my phone kept falling from my pocket when I got into my car because it was so slippery, now thanks to the rubber nature of plasti dip that shouldn't happen anymore. Here is the video I found on how to remove the back Here is the phone disassembled The only prep you need is to clean the backplate. Use rubbing alcohol, the same you would use to clean thermal paste. It is better to use alcohol rather than water because it evaporates quickly and the surface has to be perfectly dry or you will ruin the finish. Use gloves if you have any. Spray in different angles on every coat to cover every spot, but within each coat maintain the distance constant (15 cms aprox) IMPORTANT: Go easy on each coat, you don't want any buildup or textures. And take 10 to 15 minutes after the first coat, an 8 to ten on the following ones. First I put a couple of match boxes to have the backplate elevated. You don't want the edges of the backplate making contact with anything because the plasti dip will stick to both. And if you have a respirator it would be ideal. Either way you need a ventilated area. The pictures shown are of the coats just as they are applied. That's why it looks wet Here is the 1st coat 2nd coat 3rd coat 3rd coat dry 4th coat 4th coat dry 5th and final coat 5th coat dry After the last coat leave it dry for about 40 mins before you put it back on the phone. Final result Here you can see the finish on my monitors. That's five coats if I recall correctly. http://i.imgur.com/MtHO0vD.jpg Hope you enjoyed this post and you can also "fix" the shiny back on your phone.
  13. Hey guys, I'm facing the question whether or not to plasti dip a mainboard (yea covering up the connectors, heatsinks, pcie and ram slots and the socket, I know). As the same question occurs to every type of mainboard-paintjob, I kindly ask: could someone with an IR-camera please take some photos of his/her mainboard running on a bench with only a gpu in a pcie slot under full load (I recommend p95 blendtest furmark music playing via headphones via crappy onboard (yea I know) crystal diskmark on hdd AND a fast USB 3 flashdrive copying a huge file from a nas all at the same time for 10 minutes or so) or even without the gpu so that we exactly know which components get hot (except for the obvious ones like cpu, chipset aka north / southbridge, GPU (if any) and vrm). Note: Goal of this is to find out how hot and especially which things COULD get. The results of the benchmarks naturally do not count, it's just all about maxing the stress. The Pics even don't have to be nice or anything. That way there would be no doubt for future moders which components to cover before painting / plastidiping etc. as future mainboards will probably pretty much have the same components. In theory LinusMediaGroup would have everything except for the IR camera (or do they), so they could do it (if they can afford the time). As Slick happens to do benchmarks quite often on a bench, it even probably wouldn't take much time to do for him. But then again he seems to be quite overworked (just thinking loud). If anyone could do such a thing, that would be really great. And I'm sure we would see a lot more paintjobs on mainboards in the future, too.
  14. I tried to search for answers to this but found nothing, so here's another plasti dip based thread. So I've been planning to plasti dip the interior of my TJ-07 for a while now, but I'm concerned about filling up the threaded holes that are anywhere and everywhere in the case. Is there an effective way to mask or fill threaded holes before painting that can be easily removed post-painting? The only thing I've come up with is to install all the screws prior to painting, and paint everything together. Does anyone have any other suggestions?
  15. NCIX: N/A Amazon: Coming soon Here is our DIY guide on how to safely paint parts of your graphics card, RAM, and motherboard. Linus recently had to do this for one of our build guides, so he decided to make a vlog and show you guys the process.
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