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I am looking to build a small and power efficient (german energy prices yay) home server using this Gigabyte Motherboard, a Ryzen 5 5600x (set to as power efficient as possible in bios), 2-4 sticks of ram and a M.2 ssd. As far as I can tell, the system shouldn't be using more than 100W. Normal ATX PSUs dont even start under 300W and perform poorly (efficiency wise) when only using <30% of their capability. I have heard of PicoPSUs and such, but my question is if they are still considered to be the best, reliable option for low power applications. Also the aspect to find a good quality 12v powerbrick is a bit tricky, as i dont have much experience in that field and everything on amazon looks to be the same. (if you have some recommendations here aswell, feel free to let me know)

Hiya all! I'm in the process of upgrading a used HP Z400 Workstation (Xeon X5690 - see full specs below) that I'll be using as a cheap rendering/ gaming rig. Only one problem, the 475W Delta PSU is proprietary for this particular HP model. I'm planning on using one (initially) and then eventually two Radeon RX480's (XFX 8GB OC Blower version). The 475 W PSU is going to be a tight squeeze for even one of these cards, it definitely can't power two of them. My thought is this - I was thinking of using a picoPSU **only** to power the six pin connectors for the GPU's. With the updated drivers from last summer, reference cards are usually benchmarked drawing around 170W total. Subtract the 75W coming through the PCI-E slot and that leaves 95-100W via the six pin. A 250W picoPSU should (on paper anyway) be able to handle this - I'd be drilling standoffs on the bottom of the chasis to mount the unit, as well as an add2PSU so the pico will power on the same time as the rest of the system. Just to be clear the picoPSU uses its own external 12V DC laptop style power brick, with that cable routing through a PCI slot blanking plate made to hold the DC input connector. Thanks! -Kristen Proposed Final Specs: HP Z400 Gen 2 (6 DIMM slots) Xeon X5690 6C/12T 3.4 Ghz base, software overclock (unless a modded BIOS is available to unlock overclocking- I know there used to be one, but the download link was broken.) Corsair Hydro Series H75 with adapter to install the 120mm radator on 92mm fan mount 24GB (6 x 4GB) DDR3 1333mhz RAM One (initially) then two XFX Blower Style 8GB RX 480 cards 500GB Samsung EVO 850 SSD 2TB Segate 7200rpm HDD USB 3.0 PCI-E card Windows 10 Pro / Fedora 25

So, I'm currently in possession of multiple "no extra power connector" GPUs (integrated, gtx750ti, 1050, 1050ti and Rx460; no one here has the damn gtx950 75W varient, so it's hardly worth going for) for testing purposes. I wanted to be able to evaluate and recommend which GPU for value or performance in both low-power and low-cost machines. Since I'm in the UK, I'm primarily trying to appeal to other UK PC builders or gamers (the "value for money" on every american review kinda goes out the window when prices are out of wack over here). I'm using an i5 6500, 16Gb of cheap ram (accidental overkill), a 160W Pico Psu and my ol' reliable 1680x1050 60fps monitor (assuming our target audience is going to have, at most, a 1080 display). I do have a 1980x1200 display, but don't really think a "dip toes in the water" builder is going to want to push that many pixels. Currently, I'm recording FPS statistics from 2 Source "2" engine games (l4d2 and cs:go), Metro 2033 and Batman Arkham Asylum. I'm also doing what I call "playability tests" on games that don't have a consistent benchmark, which I am yet to decide (I will likely use fraps for this to check frame variance etc). I'm mainly testing for those who are getting a PC to join friends who want to play various cheap "party" games, so likely no high fidelity single player or full price brand-new games. I've noticed the number of people in this position come to me asking about which hardware to get, and I couldn't honestly say which I felt was best. So the reason I'm posting here (aside from floating the idea past other PC users) is to ask what data and how. I planned to show average frames w/variance on a "standard deviation" style graph and planned to show frames per £ in a simple bar graph. I was also going to show Wattage per FPS, since that's proven incredibly interesting through testing so far... What other information would you want to see, and how would you want to see it visualised? What do you think would be really interesting to see? Are there games that alot of your non-pc gaming friends are interested in? Please let me know if you can, or any other suggestions you might have. Please help me try and not waste precious University hours for a boring, uninformative guide!

Hello everyone ! Owning an old i5 Asus K56CM with luckily 2 m.2 ports (1 for the wifi and 1 for the useless 24Gb boot SSD) I've decided to upgrade it with a GTX 960 4Gb that I had lying around. To do so, I bought a pci-e -> m.2 Beast Pro adapter from AliExpress but I have a few questions regarding the latter : - what's the 12V input port for ? - I would like to use a PicoPSU to power up the adapter and the 6 and 8 pin required for the GPU, any advice for that ? (I was thinking about getting a psu of at least 150W coupled with a 150-200W power brick 12V but I don't really know how to plug a 6 and 8 pins power adapter to the GPU from a PicoPSU... I only see 6 pins and at best 1 molex adapter on most of them...) Can one molex to 8 pins or even better to 6+8 pins yield enough power for the GPU ? I'm scratching my head to make this smaller factor because I would like to build a little case without using a full ATX PSU to be able to transport that eGPU setup easily in a backpack.

Hello there LTT , i bring you another humble review , of another mITX enclosure , and this time , it really is mini. This case is manufactured by Realan , and comes with a pricetag of 32 USD ( courtesy of Alliexpress ) and to with shipping to Croatia , it came in at 50USD . Its made out of 3.5mm thick aluminium , and it consists of only 4 parts ! The bottom panel , the "middle" section , HDD/SSD mounting bracket , and top panel . So , can this little case justify the 32 USD pricetag ? Lets find out . Exterior : As previously mentioned , the case is made out of 3.5mm aluminium , and has a nice , in this case , black anodized finish . It is however , not of best quality and easily scratches , so handle with caution . The case measures 200Wx200Dx60H(mm). ( H60 meaning it is 60mm ~ 6cm tall ) On the front you find a single power button , illuminated with a blue LED . On the right hand side , you find a single USB 2.0 interface , which is held in by two screws , and is nicely recessed so its out of view . The interface and cable come with the case , and you have the option of either installing it , or just leaving the spot empty . OR , if you have a newer motherboard , you can fit a single USB3.0 interface aswell . ( not that id reccomend since the case is already crowded with cables) Also on the right hand side ( and left ) you find a set of holes , which can be used for external WI-FI antennas , or DC jacks to power the components inside . On the back there is a motherboard I/O cutout . On the bottom of the case you will find ventilation cutouts , and VESA compatible mounting holes , which enables this small case to be mounted on the back of your monitor !

I'm building a mini-itx Linux pc to play with, and I'm still lost at choosing the power supply. The cpu is an i3 8100. Other than that, just a sata ssd and an nvme ssd, a 40mm fan, and a noctua cpu cooler. Strangely enough all the psu calculators keep telling me I should get at least a 200w psu. My laptop with a core i7 and and a gtx 1050ti is just fine with its 130w brick, so I cant see why i should get anything larger than 150w for this tiny pc. (I know I know, laptops are more power-efficient, but still). The picopsu I'd like to buy is this 150w one. Would it be suitable for my setup? Also I need a power brick for this psu, and there's one with a 2.5/5.5mm jack and one with an - apparently more robust - 4-pin connector. What's the difference from a practical standpoint? Thanks!

Hello LTT Community- This is the HTPC One- a 2.6L case designed for Ryzen APUs and the HDPLEX 160 AC-DC unit with a pico style DC-ATX unit. It’s got support for a Wraith Stealth cooler with the AMD shroud removed, right under 49ish mm of cooler height. It uses PEMSERTS to hold the motherboard in and hold the top on. It will be manufactured by Sliger Designs, the same company the manufactures the Cerebrus and Cerebrus X. It will include a machined power switch from NFC systems. Spoiler below contains renders: You can see the most up-to-date model here (it’s an autodesk viewer link): https://autode.sk/2ufuUuj My goal with this thread is to see how many are interested. If you are interested, please fill out this form, which will help judge interest and decide on what color to powder coat it. Form: https://autode.sk/2ufuUuj Cheers, Windfall HTPC One Status: CONCEPT / Community feedback Note to mods: if this is in the wrong spot, move at your discretion.

Hello everyone. I'm building a very smal mini-ITX pc from a few spare parts I've got (and some new ones as well). I'm not sure if I need to go for a 150w picoPSU, or if a 120w one would do just as well. The specs: -case: M350 universal mini ITX enclosure -chassis fans: 3x Noctua NF-A4x10 FLX (~2w) -motherboard: Gigabyte Z370N -cpu: Intel Core i7 6700 (65w TDP) -cpu cooler: Noctua NH-L9i (2.52w input power) -memory: 2x8gb Corsair DDR4 300mhz -storage: 2x240gb SATA SSD (~5w), 1x 240gb M.2 PCIe NVMe SSD (~5w) I'm not sure about the power consumption of the motherboard and the memory, but I guess they're negligible. So, with the CPU working on 100% , and 3-4 USB devices like a mouse, keyboard, dongles, USB 3 HDD, it could reach around 100w I guess (sounds a bit unlikely). I mean my gamer laptop with an i7 7700HQ (45w TDP) and a GTX 1050ti (75w TDP) is fine with a 130w brick. The question is: should I go for the 120w picoPSU, or for only £5 extra give it a bit of wiggle room with the 150w version?

Anything else out there like the picoPSU-80 but will accept 18-20v input? The picoPSU-80 takes only a 12v input and don't feel like buying another power brick just for it. The PicoPSU-80-WI-32 is 60 dollars plus shipping. I was hoping there was an another product on the market like the picoPSU-80 but would accept 19v. I already have a few 19v laptop power bricks and just need a dc-dc ATX psu. I was hoping there was something else on the market for sub $30. Thanks for your help

Been looking at building a computer using a Pico-Psu (with 190W power brick) and compact case; assuming I put a 750ti in there (evga short card cooler) with a i5 4690S, how would the temps be reading? would they be super cool, boiling, borderline? anyone have experience in such tight cases? If no one has advice on the case+ components specifically, does anyone has experience with pico-psu/similar small power supplies for <300Watts? what sort of components could you manage to get in on that power range? for anyone with experience on those components, what case did you use them in, and did they run cool enough to not even worry about airflow? Links: http://www.logicsupply.co.uk/power-supplies/dc-converters/picopsu-160-xt/ http://www.logicsupply.co.uk/power-supplies/ac-adapters/pw-12v16a-l5-uk/ http://www.logicsupply.co.uk/cases/expandable-cases/mc600/