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Hi all! I'm looking for a decent monitor under $150 that has accurate colors and a fast refresh rate. This is my current PC. (I currently have a 1650 4gb in the tower, and just ordered the 3060 in the list.) I am a photographer and gamer, so color accuracy and refresh rate are paramount for me. I've done some research, and have stumbled upon this Lenovo monitor and this AOC monitor, and want to hear some feedback before I pull the trigger. Any other suggestions are also welcomed. Thanks in advance!!!

And why is he using 2 Macs? Where's the Framework? Where's the LTT desk mat? https://www.amazon.ca/UGREEN-Charger-Desktop-Charging-Station/dp/B0BZ3FNZ5W

I have my ex landlord trying to take my bond for stuff I didn't do the house the house when by 4 land agents and two landlords and they lost a lotta of the records when it came to the status of the house. We took photo when moved in and out they are dated and tagged in my google account. without just showing them my phone or google account how can extract them with the extra metadata showing the date and time. Also note I am Australian meaning USA law doesn't apply. I'm also not seeking legal help just a way grab the photos this will very helpful if anyone replys

Hey everyone, hope you all have a great day/evening! Apologies if this question gets asked a billion times, but to be honest I couldn't be bothered to read through countless threads I am in the market for a new monitor that will cover both my gaming and photo editing needs. I have a budget of roughly $400-600 and min. requirements are 144hz, 27", 2K and low latency. It of course also has to have good color accuracy as I am planning on calibrating it. If there are barely any monitors which sufficiently covers this, I am willing on increasing my budget. But I would first like to know how the market looks! Appreciate all the help I can get!

Hello all, I work for a company that does ADA compliance assessments among other things, we use pretty bad digital cameras because we can customize how the photos are named. We can also quickly tell the assistant surveyor what photo numbers to attach to a specific finding while out in the field because the camera overlays the photo number on the image. Ex: "Overall photos for dwelling unit 313 are 0035 through 0045". Ex: When starting a new survey, we set the photo range to start at 0001. After we take these photos, we use a program to batch rename these files to append a 2 letter surveyor code (Ex: OQ) followed by the date (232003) and the photo number. The result would be a file name of "OQ232003-0001". We intend to keep the system for batch renaming in place, but we would like to replace the need for these digital cameras. They produce awful looking photos compared to modern smartphones. The problem is I can't find an app that allows the user to choose when to start or stop a number sequence for photos. Anyone know of an app like this or would I have to waste weeks attempting to develop it myself coming from 0 coding experience?

Hi. I'm wanted to build pc for: 1. Minecraft (not laggy when building a lot of redstones and using good shaders) 2. Photo editing 3. Coding (full-stack website dev) 4. Budget: ±720 USD and ±285 USD monitor for editing (99% sRGB or adobe) this is my build: CPU: AMD Ryzen 3 3100 3.6 GHz Quad-Core Processor Motherboard: ASRock B450M PRO4 Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 CL18 Memory Storage OS: Samsung 860 Evo 500 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive Storage: Western Digital Blue 2 TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 1050 Ti 4 GB Video Card Power Supply: SeaSonic M12II EVO 520 W 80+ Bronze Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply Monitor: AOC C24G1 24.0" 1920x1080 144 Hz Monitor (is it good enough for photo editing?) CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-U12S 55 CFM CPU Cooler (is it excellent air cooler?) Case: ? OS: Windows 10 I've not decided on a case, monitor, and excellent non-RGB air cooling system yet any suggestion? I never build pc before and wanted to build a balanced and on budget machine. I worried that the components are not compatible or not get maximum performance because some good components are not supported by the others. I'm from indonesia btw. thanks!

Hi. I'm still exploring my new NAS, it's a DS220+ with the latest DSM 7, it's really my father's, I'm setting it up for him, and I'm having some trouble using Synology Photos. First I've been trying this "DS Photo" app on the Microsoft Store but it wont let me in and I can't find any other threads about this problem. I'm using all the right credentials, my QuickConnect ID, User and Password but it always spits out the same error "Connection failed with DiskStation. Check the network connection or the IP address" something like that translated from my language interface. So I hope there's a way to make this app work, I'm not even sure it's the official one but what other alternatives do I have to use my Synology Photos without going into DSM everytime. I don't have anything against DSM but my f****g Edge browser just wont autofill in the password, and I'm trying to use secure long passwords that I have to copy and past everytime from an Excel spreadsheet. On youtube I'm seeing a ton of videos praising and kissing ass about how great is the new Synology Photos app (I agree too, don't get me wrong) but not even one mentioning how to actually access it except from DSM.

Hello. It’s me again, still trying to set up my new Synology, still having trouble with Synology Photos app. I want to set up a simple and direct access to the Photos app from my PC and the other user’s PC too. So far I managed to do it just for the admin user, but the other users still need to first log into DSM 7 to get into the actual app. The way I did it was by setting up “Web Services“ access for Synology Photo from the the Control Panel > Login Portal > Applications > Synology Photos > Web Services, and the end the UI spits out a URL with my NAS’s IP address and a port to long directly from my browser into the Photos app, that is into the admin user’s Photos ONLY while all other users cannot except via DSM. By doing it this way you need access to the CONTROL PANEL but only my admin user can use it for some reason while all other users don’t even have it. How do I get out of this one? What am I doing wrong? The admin is not even going to store anything, it’s a user for administration purposes only.

I know this is a very dumb question but how much difference would there be between a Benq EX2510 144hz IPS monitor and my iPhone SE (2020) when it comes to photo editing? I normally use my phone for editing instead of my gaming laptop since I feel that it is more accurate but would the Benq be a good option for some occasional lightroom stuff?

So I accidentally reformatted my sd card in my Canon T7 and I need to use a software to get back the photos but there are 15 gbs of photos but all the free software only allows a max of 1 gb and they’re all super expensive so does anyone know of a free or even cheap software that can help get 15 gb of photos back?

My girlfriend is looking for a laptop to edit photos on/light gaming. She has a budget of $1000 any recommendations will be greatly appreciated.

I like to bake cakes, scones & biscuits etc. Does anybody else bake? If you like to bake show it off.

I wanted to give my mom a photostick. but it was to expensive... so i bought usb drive with 2in 1 usb c+ usb (normal ) anyway i would like a software that auto backups photos to usb when she pluges it into the phone. if anyone uses it or has a way to use photostick app without genuine usb key i would love to have your feed back (if that is not avalible: is there a user friendli interface (select and copy) pictures to otg usb?

Hi everyone, how can I change the date take for my photo archive?

Hello. I already have a method but I want to be sure is it correc to compare. First, I open a photo that supports AdobeRGB. Next, I'm changing it's color space on "Edit > Color Settings. When I choose AdobeRGB, it looks pretty good, and then, when I choose sRGB, it becomes worse. It's OK and normal, what I want. Then, I want to save both of the photos to my computer for comparing them. But when I was saving "sRGB" one and clicking "Convert to sRGB", it becames same with AdobeRGB. So I remove the click from that option. I only choose "embed color profile" when saving AdobeRGB and I click neither of them when saving sRGB. "Renk profilini göm" means "Embedded color profile". Photo in the prefview is as same as AdobeRGB when I click convert to sRGB. And this makes me think about my method. Are there any mistake? Did I save rightly? Should I click "Convert to sRGB" when saving sRGB one? Thank you.

Hi everybody! I'm currently studying digital content design (video/image/2d/3d, very versatile) and my current build is struggling a lot with Adobe CC's software suit; especially After Effects and Premiere Pro, when creating 3D animations and editing 4k footage. There's also slowdown/lag with high res images and heavy documents in Photoshop and Illustrator. My current build consists of parts which are about 8 years old, some way older since the gpu, psu and mobo gave up at one point and the current ones are salvaged from an even earlier build. So I wouldn't be surprised if my current build doesn't make much sense. But it's time to move on and upgrade since it's now holding me back. Current build: I'm looking for: A PC build that can handle all types of visual and content creation; video, image, 3D, animation, 4k, raw etc. You name it. Nothing from the old build will be saved, I'm looking for a completely new build. I never game, it will purely be a working horse running content creation software (Adobe CC etc). I do not care for gaming esthetics (black, rgb lights, windowed case), I prefer simple and clean. 1 SSD for the OS and 1 HDD for storage. Speed and efficiency. Budget: 10 000 SEK = 1131 USD Country: Sweden Aim: 3D, animation, video and photo editing, vector graphics etc in softwares such as Adobe CC AE, PR, AI, PS. My current build struggles a lot when it comes to 3D animation, 4k footage, high res images and heavy documents, pretty much everything in other words. Monitors: For starters I will only run 1 monitor and aim for 4k res, but I'd like to be able to run 2 monitors in the future when I have enough desk space. Peripherals: Atm my budget is probably only enough for computer parts, but later on I also plan to purchase a new monitor. Monitor suggestions would therefore be appreciated as well, something suitable for editing with accurate colors, a 4k 27" IPS panel maybe. Mouse, keyboard and OS is taken care of. Why upgrade: I'm a digital content designer student whose current build is made up of 8+ years old parts and as I'm getting more and more into motion design with 3D and animated effects and the resolution of videos, images and documents increase, my current computer is coming up short, to put it mildly. ___ I'm uncertain when it comes to compatibility between components and I'd like to get as much bang for my buck as possible. I therefore reach out to you wise members and I thank you so humbly in advance for your advice and suggestions.

Budget (including currency): 3700 USD (including monitor, excluding other peripherals) Country: US Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Games: Anno 1800, CoD, LOL | Photo edditing: Ligntroom, Luminar, big backup for photos in RAID Other details (existing parts lists, whether any peripherals are needed, what you're upgrading from, when you're going to buy, what resolution and refresh rate you want to play at, etc): Hello internet strangers! I'm assembling my first custom build (which I intend to start doing by the beginning of 2021) and would like to share my thought process for both receiving improvements suggestions and helping whoever is also trying to define their own build. I would love to hear your thoughts on the parts I'm selecting - do you see any compatibility issue, any individual performance concern, anything you would rather buy a cheaper version with a similar result, ... I'll walk you through my rationale and needs, but if you want to jump straight ahead to the list itself, here it is. The complete part's list: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/JLdycT [ ~$3700] for PC + Monitor [ ~$1500] for Miscellaneous Rationale: - I want to future proof myself by buying good parts since I'm (a) building from scratch and (b) I'll build while I'll be in the US and after a few years I'll have to move - i.e. future hardware upgrades would be way costlier. - I'm a gamer (no shit Sherlock), meaning: I need a good graphics card; DRAMS with good speed and low CAS (low latency after all); A good CPU (love to play Anno). - I'm a photographer (it's a hobby that I take seriously) and I love to post-process heavy raw images later on, meaning: I need a good amount of memory space and also a proper backup (in raid) - cloud could get really expensive when you have 5TB+ ; I need a fair amount of DRAM memory, 32GB will set me back, but since I don't edit videos (usually), 128GB seems unnecessary; A good processor. Since I don't render digital images or 3d models I shouldn't need an $800+ threadripper CPU, though. Parts discussion: [$550] CPU: Since I need a combination of CPU performance and gaming, at a fair price, I decided to go with AMD. Given the latest news, I believe the 5900x should be available by January, and would future proof myself offering great performance, so that's my pick: https://www.amd.com/en/products/cpu/amd-ryzen-9-5900x [$300] Motherboard: I need a motherboard with good power delivery (amount of phases and its quality) since I will be overclocking the 5900x and likely the DRAMs; Future-proofing is important to me, so I wanted PCIe gen 4 connections and an x570 chipset; I intend to use at least 6 SATA ports, so that's a boundary as well (well, not quite... I could expand my # of SATA with a PCI-e SATA adaptor, but that could constrain my RAID capabilities in addition to adding cost and complexity); I wanted at least one USB 3.2 gen 2 connector - Will make my life easier when transferring photos from my camera; I don't care for RGB, actually I rather not to have it (sorry RGB folks); I may be constrained on internet cables where I will be living, so I want a WIfi-capable MOBO - with good bandwidth to allow for proper gaming. With all that I decided to go with the one that is cheaper at the time among these two: - https://pcpartpicker.com/product/GcfFf7/asus-rog-crosshair-viii-hero-wi-fi-atx-am4-motherboard-rog-crosshair-viii-hero-wi-fi - https://pcpartpicker.com/product/CLkgXL/asus-rog-strix-x570-e-gaming-atx-am4-motherboard-rog-strix-x570-e-gaming [$150] CPU cooling: I'm using and overclocking a very strong CPU so a no-stock cooler is a must. Since the pc may eventually have to travel, I was inclined not to use an Air cooler (A NH-D15 would be quite heavy, putting tension on the MOBO in the travel). Also, the big and potent air coolers have a narrow RAM clearance (32mm for NH-D15) which would restrict me on the RAMs -- I'll be using 4 DRAMS, more on that later. So, for a non-RGB guy, looking for performance and price, and for an AIO water cooler, that's what I plan on going for: https://pcpartpicker.com/product/JfVG3C/nzxt-kraken-x63-9817-cfm-liquid-cpu-cooler-rl-krx63-01 [$300] RAM: As I mentioned in my needs, I needed to go for 64GB+. Also, I wanted a good CAS and frequency (something over 3400 Mhz and less than 18CL). Also, I decided to go with 4 sticks rather than 2 for three reasons: Price; 4x16 usually outperforms 2x32 in gaming I don't believe I will need to add more memory at least in the next 7-8 years, so I'm fine with not having spare RAM slots Once again, I don't care for RGB and at that point I decided to go for a white-themed PC, so I decided to go with 2 sets of these 2x16 memories: https://pcpartpicker.com/product/9y848d/crucial-ballistix-32-gb-2-x-16-gb-ddr4-3600-memory-bl2k16g36c16u4w [$907, yes I know...] Storage: Again, I have two big needs: fast access storage and a huge capacity for backups. [$162] Fast access: I went for the EVO 970 1TB (for the operational system, games, and editing programs). I feel that the 980 is way overpriced for the additional performance, while the difference from the EVO970 to other 1TB NVMe options is bearable - Actually, I'm not 100% sure of it, I may change for a cheaper NVMe... what do you think? https://pcpartpicker.com/product/Zxw7YJ/samsung-970-evo-plus-1-tb-m2-2280-nvme-solid-state-drive-mz-v7s1t0bam [$351] Daily usage storage (mainly my photos and files): I decided to get a mix of performance and cheap storage: 2x 2TB WD Blue SSDS in RAID 0 configuration - I know these WD blues do not have great speeds, but I think having them in RAID 0 and using for photo and other files should be enough. The total 4TB is a must though, I need ( 3TB+) https://pcpartpicker.com/product/Mtprxr/western-digital-0-25-2000000rpm-internal-hard-drive-wds200t2b0a [$392] Backup: I wanted to go for something with a virtual memory of 8TB+ and with RAID (not raid 0). Originally, I thought of having 3 HDDs in RAID 5, but my MOBO doesn't support the RAID 5 setup. Thus, I decided on a 4HDD Raid 10 setup (which is supported by the MOBO). With that, having 5400RPM HDDs is more than enough (remember, backup), since the RAID 10 would also speed them up. Even being in RAID I didn't want to go very cheap and compromise on reliability, so I decided to go with 4x 6TB WD Blue (in RAID 10), rather than the cheaper barracudas (which have a higher Annual Fail Rate) https://pcpartpicker.com/product/Z2HRsY/western-digital-blue-6-tb-35-5400rpm-internal-hard-drive-wd60ezaz [$700] GPU: I think this one was a no-brainer for me. I want a very good GPU for gaming and future-proofing. However, I won't be playing on 45" 4K monitors, so I decided to go with the RTX 3080, and for aesthetics and benchmark results I chose the Founders edition: https://pcpartpicker.com/product/RnDkcf/nvidia-geforce-rtx-3080-10-gb-founders-edition-video-card-9001g1332530000 [~$150] Case: I had a few preferences here: Mid-tower (Having a full tower could be annoying when moving in a couple of years); Good ventilation is a must, low noise levels are preferred; At least 4x 3.5" bays without having the HDD showing between the MOBO and front panel; White color preferred; USB 3.2 gen 2 in the front. With all of that, I decided to go with the https://pcpartpicker.com/product/bnzkcf/phanteks-eclipse-p600s-atx-mid-tower-case-ph-ec600pstg_wt01 I love its aesthetics, the fact that it supports 3x140mm fans in the front, 3x140 in the top, and 1x140 in the back, and checks my other boxes. It also performed very well in benchmarks for acoustics and cooling capabilities. In addition, love the fact that all my storage would be properly hidden behind the MOBO shield or beside the PSU. [$205] PSU: My bare minimum is a 750W due to the RTX3080, but that being said, I wanted to future proof myself and go two steps more (+200W) thinking of upgrading after ~5-6 years without having to change the PSU - these things last an eternity. Not to mention that having a few Watts more would allow me to overclock without a heavy conscience and would put me in a good point in the PSU efficiency curve. Also, I don't believe I'd ever been SLIing, so no need for humongous Wattages here...In addition to that, I went for strong brands and 80+ gold at least. Looking at the prices I chose https://pcpartpicker.com/product/nQJkcf/corsair-hx-platinum-1000w-80-platinum-certified-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-cp-9020139-na which right now is $205 so I think it's a very good price. If its price increases, I would go for the 1200 W version which is $250. [$92] Case cooling: These were my guidelines: All 140mm fans (allow for better noise levels, which was one of the factors for picking the case); I wanted some white light coming from them in the upper-back part of the case; Having the sum of inflow CFMs being higher than the outflow CFMs sum. The case comes with 3x140mm non-led and non-PWM (3pin) fans. I intend to leave them all in the front, however, I saw that they are not very strong/efficient -- unfortunately, I found very little data for them. Would love if some could provide numbers on them. With that, I decided put the radiator (280mm) on the front in a push-pull config, while having one of the 140mm slots with only the stock fanThat would allow me to have 5 inlet fans in the front, but with a non-extraordinary individual performance. To balance it I decided to have 3x140mm in the rear/top of the case, having decided to go with the https://pcpartpicker.com/product/ycH48d/corsair-co-9050046-ww-970-cfm-140mm-fan-co-9050046-ww With that, I would have 3 strong outlet fans vs 5 average inlet fans, which certainly would give me a very good airflow in terms of displaced volume, and hopefully a positive pressure environment. In addition, it would complete my white but sober build. Also, I didn't want to put any outlet fans in the top-front position of the case since I believe it actually acts against the cooling efficiency (exhausting cool air before it refrigerates anything). [$300] Monitor: I'm still thinking a lot about this one. I'm already a little over budget so I didn't want to spend too much, that being said, my minimum specs from what I think would suit me (and I could be very wrong here, so please comment on that) are: 144Hz+ 2K+ 27"+ Low response time G-sync With all of that, I found this, which seems to be a very good cost-benefit: https://pcpartpicker.com/product/LFRzK8/acer-xv272u-pbmiiprzx-270-2560x1440-144-hz-monitor-xv272u-pbmiiprzx In addition to all of these main parts, I also picked some smaller ones, but I don't think it's worth mentioning. For the full list of parts, please visit: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/JLdycT My main open questions: - Should I save money on my main NVMe using a $100 Crucial P5 or so? - Do you have data on the Phanteks stock fans? - Is 27" too small for gaming? I also think that going too big would make me have to move my head a lot while gaming, so wouldn't be ideal, but maybe a 32" would be a better sweet-spot? Would you have any specific monitor suggestions around this price range? Comments are very well appreciated! Hope I also help someone with their thought process. Best

Hey everyone I am looking for a new laptop for doing photo editing using Lightroom and photoshop currently I use a surface pro with 4gb of ram and a i5 7300u it is alright but definitely struggles at times and is annoying to work on the screen is good at least. What I need from the laptop is for it to easily be able to run whatever I want keeping in mind that may at times want to have other things open in the background as well ads photoshop and Lightroom. It needs to have a good colour accurate screen and have decent battery life as I will be using it daily any suggestions is greatly appreciated and i know it wont be cheap so there isn't really a budget thanks again.

Hello, I am not a programmer by any means but I do understand the basics of making my way through programming instructions. I take a lot of photographs and I was hoping to set up a program that will automatically copy the DCIM file from an inserted SD card and create a new folder with the days date as its name and save the file into that new folder on my PC hard drive. I was then also hoping for a secondary program that will backup an individual file to an external SSD whenever that SSD is connected to my PC. I realise this is probably a lot to ask, but google and youtube haven't been helping. I have tried to use Task Scheduler in conjunction with Event Viewer and USBLogView to no avail. (likely because I am unable to code anything from scratch) Please let me know if anyone has any suggestions for this. I am willing to learn the necessary programming language to help me out here. I'm not too keen on using a software downloaded from the internet to do these tasks as my photos are 99% NDA and sensitive. Thank you, xco This is a description of the above but i have included the file name paths.

Looking for a good HEIC/HEIF converter or encoder, whatever it is called. I got a bunch of screenshots, all in PNG format and considerably large in size. So thinking of converting them to HEIC format for saving space. There are many online converters but I'm looking for software dedicated to it. Kinda like encoders that are dedicated to encoding HEVC with options to control quality.

Hello everyone I have a certain and weirdly unstable printing issue with my Epson Stylus Photo R3000. Before i describe the issue I'll say that i have already tried to replace the cartridges, the paper type and i have done the cleaning routine multiple times. So the issue goes like this: After a month or three not printing with the printer, and thus it worked fine before and there was still plenty of inkt left, i wanted to print a picture for a certain even that required a high quality picture on photo paper. But when i printed the picture in premium photo mode(or any other photo paper type for that matter) it didn't print the picture correct, it was like a picture with a ghost, more on the black and white side then color but still color because there was blue. So i did a printer head test and indeed yellow and pink didn't print. i did a few cleaning cycles and nothing happened. after like 10 cycles( and a lot of ink gone), another color disappeared, yes disappeared. So i kept doing the cycles in hope to get the colors back. but it was in vein, even worse almost all colors are gone now except for blue and black. sometimes a color reappears but not completely and then disappears again. This is a really weird phenomenon i can not understand. I also cleaned the ink pads in the right and left(because for some reason it also uses left side to clean, idk why but ye) and i also cleaned the wiper for the head. The head itself is also cleaned to the best of my ability and the ability of a paper towels. Does anyone know how to solve this and/or why this is happening? Its very frustrating cause it is supposed to be a good quality machine Already big thanks for reading this.

Hey guys,Does anyone know how to compress gif size(animated gif) without losing too much quality ??? I have seen ppl post 1080p 60fps gifs under 5mb.I don't want to use any websites to compress them...

Update 21/03/17 New images from Evan Blass @evleaks on Twitter Nothing unexpected here, looks very similar to my S7 Edge, maybe a slightly reduced curvature on the edge which would help with accidental touches. That rear fingerprint reader is gonna cause a lot more fingerprint on the camera though Original post http://www.theverge.com/2017/3/19/14973670/samsung-galaxy-s-8-phone-photo-rumor-leak-colors-price Samsung Galaxy S8 and S8 Plus (top to bottom) in black sky, orchid grey and arctic silver (left to right) Pricing: S8 - 799€S8+ - 899€DeX - 150€GearVR - 129€Gear360 - 229€ Leaked by Evan Blass @evleaks on Twitter Thoughts: My gosh is that a good looking phone, I particularly like the clean front and the choice to not shoehorn in a Samsung logo. Pricing looks high as expected from Samsung's flagship products. Shame about them not being able to integrate the fingerprint scanner under the screen this time around. DeX product is apparently a docking station for the phone, should be interesting but looking expensive if it is just a video and usb passthrough dock. I wonder if the new GearVR price will include the recently announced controllers, also hopefully it retains compatability with the S6/7 lineup. New Gear360 as well, hoping for better stitching/higher frame rates.

Hi, I am looking for a point and shoot camera under £200 to take out instead of my a6300. I know the a6300 is small but the reach of the lens id like is quite heavy, Any tips would be appreciated. I am looking for it to do video of 1080.60p and have reasonably good photos. Also preferably have a flip up screen. Thanks

I've been trying out using Rawtherapee to edit some images today, because I took them in a situation with very poor lighting and wanted to get a little more out of them. I shot in both RAW and JPEG formats for each photo. I've noticed that if I run a JPEG through Rawtherapee with edits it comes out looking normal. However when I load in the same photo but in RAW, and make the same adjustments, then save as a JPEG, the end result is a very noisy, barely usable image. Camera is a Canon Rebel SL1, and the RAW format is .CR2. Can anyone help me out here? I know RAW is supposed to be used for superior editing, because it doesn't degrade from changes like a JPEG. What am I doing wrong?