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Titles says it all. I've been meaning to buy some new peripherals, mainly mouse and keyboard, and was considering going wireless to slim down the cable mess thats behind my desk. For reference, I've been using a wired mouse I "found" in my ex school computer lab, and a nice wired keyboard from sharkoon (I think it's mechanic but not sure). Honestly, I'm not much of a gamer but have been very comfortable with both for years now and was wondering if there was any downside in picking a wireless one now, and if there were something similar to the ones I've been using. An additional note, my pc doesn't have bluetooth connettivity, nor wifi. so if something were to be wireless it'd have to be one of those that still take up an USB port
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I have some confusion about these peripherals, So i want suggestion from you pls help me. Mouse : Logitech G502 hero VS Corsair harpoon RGB wireless Keyboard : XPG Summoner VS Redgear shadowblade Monitor : Lg Ultragear gn850 VS Gigabyte M27Q (rev2.0) Pls provide me suggestion!
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I recently learnt about how lights of varying colour may appear on your motherboard if there is an issue with your pc, while I hadn’t been having an problems and all was good I decided to check it out as I’d rather have an unexploded pc. I took out the GPU only to learn it was the clip by the pcie port that was shining, I was pretty confused and after an hour of trying to figure out what was going on I learnt the unfortunate fact that it was just a cosmetic part of the motherboard. Not sure how Asus thought “hmm our pcie port clip needs to be special, not any other part just the clip”( Asus: “Im not like OTHER pcie port clips, *flicks hair). Annoyed, I put it back together, turned it on, and nothing. The monitor, mouse, and keyboard refused to turn on. Hours of head scratching later I just decided to re-assemble it again, somehow fixing only the mouse and keyboard. Now here I am asking for assistance on what the hell is going on. here’s all the stuff I’ve tried already with no success: 1. Swapping the ram into different slots, using both sticks individually 2. checking all power connections 3. Reseating the gpu and cpu 4. Switching from display port to hdmi 5. switching monitors 6. Connecting the monitor to the motherboard rather than the gpu 7. checking the power to the monitor 8. 90% sure it isn’t the psu that’s the problem as I tested it a couple months ago 9. reapplying thermal paste even though it was fine (I know it doesn’t make a difference, Im just completely lost) 10. Banging my head against the wall to come up with new ideas My specs: MSI GTX 1660 Ti, Ryzen 7 2700x, Asus prime a320m-k (regretful choice), Gskill 16gb (2x8) 3200mhz, Gigabyte 400w bronze non-modular Some theories I have: 1. Physical damage to the motherboard while I was reassembling the pc (although I can’t see any damage) 2. I’ve been cursed by the cable management gods for the blasphemy that is my pc. 3. Crappy psu pulling a fast one on me (although it hasn’t betrayed me before)
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When i try to wake PC from sleep, the fans start spinning but the display and peripherals don't get any signal. I changed the ram slots being used, At first the issue was solved. But now it is happening again. Not always, but many times. It it matters, the cpu is an i7 2nd gen, with a Q67 chipset.
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I'm looking for a way to pass a HDMI signal from my PC to a TV thats located in a separate room, as well as mouse/keyboard signal back to the PC over a single cable as shown on the attached drawing. I'm hoping to find a way to pass signals back and forth over a single cable, ideally Ethernet, but optical would be fine as well. I know I can achieve this functionality using a KVM, here are several constraints however: There are 2 walls between the PC and TV, and max outer diameter of the conduit I can put through those walls is about 22mm, 25 if I'm lucky. Budget constraints: max abount I can spend on the device is about $100 US. I'm willing to consider buying used. I'm looking for some tips and suggestions on what KVM or other device to use, hoping that theres somebody on this forum that had faced similar problem before.
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Budget (including currency): below £3500 Country: United Kingdom Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: RDR2,GTAV,R6,SpaceEngine,Stellaris,HOI4,EU4,Hitman3,CitiesSkylines2,Prey,SCP:SL,BeamNG,DBH,WD1,WD2,WDL,FH5,Subnautica,COD,Cyberpunk,Starfield I'll mostly be playing non-cinematic games (or lacking graphics) at 2k and cinematic games at 4k such as RDR2. FSR3 probs gets me to 100fps at 4k ig? PC Specs with Peripherals: https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/gfZ2mD ¦¦ If you could, please offer alternatives for the peripherals for around the same quality, with ability to do work and games. ¦¦ ¦¦ Do you know of any custom 97% full keyboards that are quality, I don't like these 'gaming' keyboards. ¦¦ ¦¦Finally, do you know when is the best time to buy pc parts, e.g: black friday, cyber monday, early-december sales, what goes on sale?¦¦ Thank you!
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Hello, for a few month now my PC started to randomly disconnect all my peripherals before reconnecting them after roughly 15 seconds. It started happening two after I installed VoiceMeeter, of course I have long uninstalled the software and its drivers but the issue still occurs. It disconnects : My wireless mouse, a razer Viper ultimate, sometimes the mouse stops working alone until I unplug/replug the wireless dongle My keyboard, a razer blackwidow chroma my blutooth headset, a senheiser Momentum 3 (this one is weird because sometimes it also restart the headset instead of just disconnecting it) Screens are fine, but I can't say for other devices like USB drives because I don't have one on hand I keep my PC up to date and properly restart it from time to time. Any advice on how to track and solve this issue ? Relevant infos below. OS: Windows 11 22H2 build 22621.2134 as time of writing MB: MSI MPG X670E CARBON WIFI CPU: Ryzen 9 7950X PSU: Corsair HX1500i (1500W)
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A while ago I had some money to spend and because I was (yes was) a big razer fanboi, i blew it on a gaming chair Iskur, a deathstalker V2 pro (€250), a Barracuda pro(€300), fancontroller and a argb controller. the chair came with a kickass webcam (KIYO pro) which i barely use but which works fine. Sadly I'm having issues with pretty much all of it and I was wondering what other people think of this stuff. Barracuda X (failx2) Pieces of plastic popped off and i decided to disregard because i was a big fanboi as i said and i have a big head (which possibly lead to the breakage.) Also the first one was replaced already because of being faulty (bad mic i think) before that after having a really good experience with the razer CS. So it was the actually the second barracuda X i have owned. It will not always detect from startup, I very often had to reseat the dongle to have it pop up. Barracuda pro This also has the detection 'problem.' But waaay worse: It seems to have intermittend grounding or faulty soldering of some sort. Lately it'll have cracks and pops and sometimes sound like I'm in gusty wind of sorts with an old headset. Deathstalker v2 pro This is the real disasterpiece about which I've been tirelessly been back and forth with Razer CS and which just isn't going anywhere. Not a lot bad can be said about the CS-team at razer but that's hardly an excuse for a product that just does not work. Connection (especially when gaming) is poor at best. Intermittend drops, delayed responses. Wired it works alright but well yea i couldve spent a lot less for a wired keyboard Iskur gaming chair This thing is great! omg i love it. Conclusion: Well either I'm just unlucky or there's something to be said about Razers design philosophy and/or QC. I went into this buying some higher tier peripherals and i couldn't be more disappointed, even thinking that my money would've been better spent on some B tier crap, that way i couldve just easily replaced them and wouldn't have to feel too bad about it.
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Hello all, randomly when playing games, browsing the web, even just using discord my computer seems to freeze for about 1-10s, it disconnects everything currently connected to my pc via usb and then reconnects them and I un-freeze. If I am playing a game the game doesn't even crash, and after the 1-10s I can just continue playing like it never happened. It seems to trigger quite often when someone joins or leaves my discord channel but I think that could be just a big coincidence as that doesn't really make any sense. I've tried using event viewer to source the issue, and discovered every time I freeze I get a Kernel Event Tracing error id 28. I think this may just be due to the fact that when I freeze my peripherals disconnect then reconnect , but every time I plug in my ASTRO A50's and my Hyper X Quadcast S I get those errors. Not sure if those errors could cause the freeze in the first place though. Seems to happen about only once a day not sure if i can remember if it's happened more than once in a day and I use my computer for hours upon hours everyday. Any help appreciated been dealing with this pretty much ever since I built the PC and I can't take it anymore. My specs: GPU : Asus Strix 3080 CPU : i9 13900k MOBO : Asus z790-e RAM : Corsair Vengeance RGB DDR5 64gb 6400mhz PSU : Corsair Shift Series 1000W NVME(s) : Corsair MP 600 and Corsair MP 600 PRO XT OS : Win 10 Pro I have tried upgrading my PSU from 850w to 1000w didn't fix it. I have tried upgrading my RAM from 32gb 6000mhz to 64gb 6400mhz didn't fix it. I have tried upgrading my MOBO from asus z690e to asus z790e didn't fix it. I have tried doing a complete clean install of windows (formatting the drive it was originally installed on and reinstalling with a USB) didn't fix it. I have tried replacing the A50's and Quadcast with brand new ones, didn't fix it. I have tried going into Power Management and turning off USB Selective Suspend, also went into device manager and made every single device that had the option of not allowing the pc to turn it off unchecked. I have tried updating bios to most current one, didn't fix it. Please someone help still not resolved as of 11/10/23
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I've owned the Logitech MX Master 3 & Razer Pro Click. However, the Razer's scroll wheel randomly jumps up and down while scrolling and the Logitech MX Master is too heavy. I'm looking for a...: Large (I have large hands so about the same size as the Pro Click/MX Master). Bluetooth. Light (max 110 grams). NOT Razer (I'm tired of their bad quality control). Any recommendations is greatly appreciated, thank you!
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I recently bought a Razer Pro Click mouse, and it’s perfect for my large hands and the best mouse I’ve every used in terms of comfort. I’ve used every Logitech MX Master mouse before, but the weight was just too much. However, I was very sad when I realized that Razer’s software is not available for Mac. Which is a bit strange, since the Razer Pro Click is targeted towards the workplace and professionals, not gamers. Hopefully Razer release their software so Mac users also can buy their products and customize them. Didn’t they used to have software on macOS?
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Hey all, For the last 3 weeks my pc has been power cycling the peripherals constantly while gaming. Its not monitors, and the pc itself is fine. No rgb flickering or fan speed drops. It's just the rgb peripherals and mouse/keyboard/mic/headphones. I've turned off power management in power settings and for each individual device in device manager. I've disabled razer synapse and related apps. I have a brand new corsair RM1000X 1000W PSU. What could possibly be the issue? I'm at my wits' end...
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I need some serious help and guidance here. What I fundamentally want to do, is add an in-desk USB Hub (like a grommet) to expand my USB capabilities on my Desktop. I have a finite of USB ports (2x 2.0 - these are for Keyboard and Mouse), 2x 3.2 Gen 1 and 2x 3.2 Gen 2) ports on my MB but I need more. I am studying my degree in digital media, and aside from the keyboard and mouse, I have a: C922 Pro Webcam, Desktop Light, Boom Mic, Wacom Graphic Tablet, Brother printer and a Headset that I need to run simultaneously. I don't recall the LTT guys ever running a segment on hardware like this, but if they have PLEASE direct me to that!!! The obvious answer would be to use the ones on the front, HOWEVER, I wish to refrain from having too many cables in the front of my tower, as you could understand. Can anyone help me here and direct to what I could get for something like this? Issues: - Don't care if it sits on Desktop, Mounted or otherwise - I live in Australia, so please do not suggest places in the US that I cannot access. I am looking for products not store locations. - Specifically looking for something that isn't bulky Specifications: (GPU in process of Upgrade) Component Selection CPU AMD Ryzen 9 5900X 3.7 GHz 12-Core Processor CPU Cooler Cooler Master A71C 38.99 CFM CPU Cooler Motherboard Asus TUF GAMING B550M-PLUS WIFI II Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard Memory G.Skill Ripjaws V 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory Storage Gigabyte GP-GSTFS31240GNTD 240 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive GPU ASUS RX580 8GB Case Thermaltake Versa H17 MicroATX Mini Tower Case Power Supply Corsair RM750 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply Operating System Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM - DVD 64-bit
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Hey all, so I just wanted to ask a quick question about peripheral power on startup. Usually when the Windows login page loads, my peripherals immediately power on and are ready to go. Now, it takes something like 20-30 seconds for them to power on at that point. Could this be an issue with the PSU being insufficient or aging? A BIOS setting? I recently upgraded my cpu and changed some settings, but this issue didn't start until recently and that was over a month ago. I couldn't find any other posts about something this specific, so hopefully someone has some wisdom to share here. Thank you. Specs: OS: Windows 10 Pro v.22H2 build 19045.2728 PSU: Aresgame AGV650 650W 80+ Bronze (installed Oct. 2021) CPU: i7 11700k w/ 92mm air cooler GPU: Zotac OC 3060 12gb (Afterburner & ReBAR on) Mobo: Asus Prime Z590M-PLUS bios v. 0820 x64 RAM: 8x2GB TeamGroup T-Force Dark Z 3600MHz (4000 MHz oc) One SATA ssd, two NVMe drives 6 case fans Let me know if you need more information
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I have found a lot of people talking about how good Razer Peripherals are. I have tried Razer peripherals before and they don't live up to the hype I was expecting. The only thing I could agree on is there Laptops which have really good specs for the money.
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I don't know if this is old news, but look at these things lol. https://www.razer.com/mobile-wearables/razer-anzu-smart-glasses/RZ82-03630800-R3U1 They call them "OPEN EAR" as if they're headphones. Do these count as headphones, or are they just speakers? Also, I think it's pretty neat that you can get prescription lenses for them, but would anyone here where them regularly? What hek? No RGB? *womp womp*
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Hey all, I'm a forum newbie here so apologies for the rambling! I have ADHD and am a PC enthusiast/gamer and also work in PC/component repairs and Data recovery- I spend a LOT of time sitting at a desk and have really noticed the impact my ADHD has on my overall experience. I wanted to create this discussion to see what the likeminded ADHDers do to assist in their day to day functioning with technology. If you have ADHD and have any suggestions or methods that work for you, or think you know of something that might be of use to people with ADHD or have any questions please feel free to discuss! (Quick breakdown of related symptoms if you're interested: Constantly losing things, AirPods, wires, phones on and around my desk. A lot of spilling things due to having object permeance issues and not being able to tell that something is there (I now use my water bottle from LTTstore.com). I always forget about my 2nd monitor, and I really need a way to be able to lessen the sensory pressures of having clutter on the desk.)
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For the 2nd time now, every single device connected to my PC (running up to date Windows 10) have simultaneously turned off. This includes my keyboard, wireless mouse, speakers, and even PS4 controller which was connected via Bluetooth. My monitors all stayed on with the PC, and the devices all reconnected on their own at the same time about 10 seconds later. I have also noticed that Windows has been randomly making USB device connect/disconnect chimes. I did upgrade my GPU recently, but I don’t imagine that’s what’s causing the problem (ofc there could be a GPU related explanation that I have no clue about) System: Ryzen 5 3600, Asus Dual RTX 3060, MSI B450 Tomahawk Max, Corsair CX650
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Budget (including currency): Around £60 GBP Country: UK So my old Corsair Strafe RGB keyboard with silent Cherry MX switches might be kicking the bucket (gonna have to retest it later and try to fix it.). But does anyone have any recommendations for a good RGB keyboard with Cherry MX switches? Id prefer either Logitech, SteelSeries or Corsair as the brand if possible. Can be an oldish keyboard as long as it works well. I’d also prefer it to be able to have the RGB capabilities of the RGB Strafe too. I’d most likely be buying it second hand (as I can never afford keyboard prices straight up lol) Thank you all! Hopefully my RGB Strafe will live another day but if it doesn’t I’d hopefully have some of these to fall back on!
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Foot pedals being amazing for simple stuff like push-to-talk, leaves me wanting something of a high quality. From what I can tell, the only player in the market of key press simulation is https://pcsensor.com who do “drop shipping” under various names. As for analogue, there are a few “gaming” racing pedals to choose from. However it would be required to somehow translate the specific axis’ data into either a keyDown event and keyUp event, or a keyHeld event. I have previously tried 2 variants from PC Sensor, both with their own advantages and disadvantages. However I have no idea what the response time would be compared to using a “gaming” racing pedal setup set to trigger a key press. * Question 1: response time? * Question 2: analogue to key press Does anyone have some insight into either of these questions?
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Hi Guys, Is there a way I could make any usb device wireless. Let me give you an example: I have a joystick (HOTAS) for microsoft flight sim (MFS). It connects via usb to my computer I would like to play MFS on my tv. I already have an hdmi cable long enough to plug my computer to my tv. However the usb cable for my HOTAS is not long enough. I am wondering if there is a device which would have a wireless usb receiver plugged into my computer and another one which I could plug into my HOTAS in order to make it wireless ? Thanks you guys in advance ! TL;DR : Device to make a usb device wireless. One receiver into the computer another one on the usb peripheral
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There are plenty of voices claiming "Trackpoints are great" or "Trackpoints are outdated and useless, and should be removed from modern laptops". I have been using Trackpoint for two years, and find it better than trackpads after spending two months training myself to use it. However, I have also heard of how great trackpads have become these days, such as those on Macbooks and the Sensel one on Thinkpad Titanium. That kinda made me curious about which one is better in modern days. Therefore, I want to create an "objective" test that produces quantitative results for a "scientific" comparison, which is based on statistics rather than "personal experiences". I hope you can participate in it and help me gather more data for the comparison. So here's how to do the test, which should not take you longer than three minutes: Go to https://mouseaccuracy.com/ and set it to Difficulty: Normal, Target Size: Medium, Duration: 30 Seconds, and change the rest settings if you want to, since they should not impact the test results. Take the test three times (or more, if you want), and record the "Total Score" each time. Calculate the average of your "Total Score"s, and post it here so that I can gather them. You can also include your setup for the test, just like I do, if you want. And here's my result: I took the test five times on a Lenovo X395 (13.3" display, trackpoint speed set at maximum), and my average score is 260. - - - - - - - - - - Edit 2021 Oct.11th 2:21 PM (UTC): Sorry, it seems like I forgot to clarify something... No, you don't necessarily need a Trackpoint for the test. You can do it on a Trackpoint, trackpad or joystick or any other weird pointing device if you want. Just make sure to write down which device you used, a Trackpoint or something else, so that I can compare.
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Greetings to all, Next month I am to build/order myself a PC for my work, however the budget is tiny 1000-1200 lvs. (Which is around 500 dollars/600 euros). The main 2 things I am cutting away are the OS and GPU (Surprise!). And because of this I have a few questions: 1. Currently I am going Intel with plans of getting an NVIDIA GPU in the future, but I hear AMD is better with Linux. Is there any truth and if yes how much better of an idea it is to go AMD? (Currently I am choosing Intel, because I know the CPU performance, using the same on my home PC and it ends up being a bit cheaper.) 2. Which Linux Distro needs you to be the least tech-savy? Mostly don't want to have to deal with the kernal too much. I have very minimal experience with Linux as of right now and the last thing I tried to do was install a wi-fi adapter, but I had to do it through the kernel and I failed miserably. 3. Is there a way to minimize the need for root password? Again my past experience is rather limited, but I felt the password required a bit too often for my liking (Used Linux Mint and Ubuntu). 4. I hear some peripherals don't work with Linux, like at all. And as far I as I understood it you need to check each of them one by one, but I have no way of doing this before I actually need to use said peripheral at work. Is there any other way? Or at this day and age most companies just work with Linux anyway? 5. I managed to fit in a 1TB NVME in the build, but I kinda want to get a "standard" SSD aswell on which to install the OS itself, just as a safe precaution. Is this a good idea or doable at all in Linux? Lastly I will be using Inkscape, GIMP, probably LibreOffice for spreadsheets, and later when I get a GPU, Blender for 3D modelling. Most of this should work with Linux, but again, as far I as I understand, if I want to use their latest versions I will need specific distro. Correct? Please, pardon my somewhat stupid questions, but the information I found online ended up making me more confused about the up-mentioned things and I would love to be certain of what I am doing and choosing, since it's going to be used for work. Any other things I might've missed are welcomed. Thank you all in advance!
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