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So, the idea is, everything inside the desktop PC or server is solid-state. This could be useful for hazardous environments - or in my case, I'm lazy when it comes to dusting my room, and I don't want dust getting inside the PC. Could it be done by using heat pipes from inside the PC to the outside, so that the pipes can be cooled via fans, water cooling, or peltier module(s)? Note that outside the PC doesn't have to be solid state, and that I just don't want airflow inside the case, so water cooling could work. Is there a simple and cheap to build (not concerned about electricity usage) way of accomplishing this?
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Hi all, I want to start some experiments with TEC- modules. I bought some pci-e 6-pin extension cables to power the 2 TEC's and now I want to ask if it is safe to solder the 3 (2) 12v cables and the 2 ground cables with the sense pin together. I heard that the sense pin is just another ground connection, but I don't want to blow up my psu. It's a seasonic prime 1000W.
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i've seen the frzr and the cyperpark laptop coolers, but haven't been able to get any info on their release date there's also the TEC Laptop Cooling Pad with Low-Noise Fan, Thermoelectric(TEC) Laptop Cooler Stand Ventilated Laptop Cooler Prevent Overheating on aliexpress and this seems promising for it's cost - china seems to make knock-offs a bit faster to production than competitors entering the space the good thing about the aliexpress one is that it's got a circuit to disable cooling with a thermometer, so it doesn't freeze/melt with a water mess i understand that thermoelectric cooling is a bad idea, however, i thought it was time to discuss the topic again since these devices are gaining popularity again it's been discussed before but that was years ago, and i don't really think ionocaloric cooling is really going to be commercialised for at least a couple of years has anyone tried any one of these? particularly the aliexpress one
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Does it make a difference in overclocking, will I get a satisfactory performance? in game like warzone2 4k ultra How much performance increase will I get if I can make the card to zero temperature and then overclock it? Is it important to cool vrm and momery well, does it affect a large percentage?
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hey all, so i have been thinking of a idea the last couple of days to cool a CPU the idea is that i use 4-6 Peltier Tec, to cool water that Cools the CPU. the way i would achive this is buying somethink like a WaterBlock (Like https://www.amazon.co.uk/VvW-Aluminum-Graphics-Radiator-Heatsink/dp/B00IHWAVQ6/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1486402731&sr=8-5&keywords=water+block) and then attach the cold side of the Peltier plates to the block with CPU paste between the Peltiers and the water block, that way it would keep the water really cool and then a pump would take that water and pump it in a CPU Water Block and cool the CPU down, now the hot sites of the Peltier will ofc get really hot, thats where i would use somethink like a huge cooler from lets say a GFX or another form of heatsink, maybe i could attach the warm side of the peltier to the MetalFrame of my PC with: CPU Paste? so lets say we have a i7 6700k it uses around 91w, 1 peltier tec would use 60w, so way we have 4 peltier elements that will cool with the power of 240w (give or take) would this idea even possible?
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basically i put a peltier cooler attach a big aftermarket cpu heatsink to it shove that into a jerry can to decipate *coldness* into the liquid and use a stock intel cooler to decipate *heat* away from it (heat rises) then have a tube connected to a pipe which connects to drink (shitty diagram incoming - im not joking) should i try it and could it work?
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I have my gaming rig and all my other stuff in rack mount cases. I currently am cooling my 6600k with a Noctua NH-D9L and a pair of NF-A9 PWM Fans. I MAY have clearance for SOME 120mm tower coolers if I remove my internal cross/ add in card brace. but I wont do that. Ive looked into it and have heard some okay reviews and some not so happy reviews about the Phononics HEX2.0 cooler. I do realize that the software that is downloaded for it is still a bit janky and not really the greatest but I can get temp feedback from the CPU and other sensors so no big deal there as long as it will allow me to control the level of cooling (which it does). Has ANYONE had personal experience with this 92mm cooler and my big question... IS IT DURABLE. Is the pelt plate of quality and will it last? I know if you buy Amazon or eBay peltiers they are usually of questionable quality and burn out fairly quick even with proper heat removale via heatsink or water block. It's expensive but would be perfect in my situation as I do NOT want to put water in this case.
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- phononics
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Hello. I'm currently trying to do a peltier-water all in one cooling with pwm control to avoid condensation. I'm studying mechanical engineering and I want to do this as a project.. However I'm bit stuck right at the beginning of the calculations... Any engineers who have experience with peltiers? I know that they act as heat pumps, transferring heat from cold to hot side when you run some electric power into them... Am I just imagining that it can make the cooling more efficient? Theoretically speaking, if I overclock the CPU, put a peltier element on top of it and try to pump away the heat, the watercooling will still be my bottleneck and will still transfer the same amount of heat it normally would ... It would just make the peltier element warmer and that's it right?
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So here are the ingredients: 1 GPU with back-plate (RX 480 NITRO) 10 cheap peltier elements (40x40mm) 1 120 mm case fan ... or maybe smaller Preparation: Apply the "heating" side of the peltier elements on the back-plate of the GPU with a thermal tape/paste. And then, naturally some heat-sinks on the "cooling" side of the peltier elements. Hook up the cables and connect them to the fan. Put the GPU to work and the thermometric elements power up the fan from the thermal transfer. Preferably the fan blows near the peltier's heat-sinks or in them so it can make a bigger thermal difference. I am actually preparing to try this on my machine, haven't found the time to even take measurements yet (back-plate temps most importantly) and calculate if it can actually work. But as soon as i do anything I'll share. In the meanwhile i thought second opinion might be... discouraging and stop me from making a thermal paste mess in my case .
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I have no idea what the numbers would be on it but I'm very curious. I'm guessing that there's no way it's power efficient but I think it would be an entertaining gimmick to have in a build. What do you think about adding something similar to the end of a loop?
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Hello I am going to build a new PC. For the CPU I am going for a AMD Threadripper 1950X. For the cooling I am thinking of using a peltier stack and to cool the hot side of the peltier with a phase change (LittleDevil LD Phase Change) I don't really care about power usage at all. The things I would like to know is. Is this even possible? Will a phase change be able to cool a peltier stack (ranging to get around -100/-150) how bad is it for the CPU when having the PC on for 24/7 even with really good isolation.
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Hey guys!! Just wanted to fill you in on a project I'm working on. Feel free to chime in with anything that comes to mind. Ive been experimenting the past day or so with the TEC modules I finally received; the first was a single 12706 then two 12715's. I'm really intrigued with them. I've sealed a board with an old Q6600 I had laying around and was going to mess around with one directly on the CPU, but then I wondered how it would do in conjunction with my watercooling loop in my main rig. I know about the heat dissipation issues of the TECS and am currently using a hyper 212 evo which it's doing the trick. I know (first hand) of the condensation issues, but with the way it's going to be implemented it puts the TECS on the outside of the case with the evos outside the back. I have an all copper tube build which is modular so it wouldn't take much work to change out one pipe. It wouldn't be always powered, rather only when running benchmarks or games and such. I'm placing the peltiers after my res, before it enters the gpu then cpu. (My cpu/gpu are in a parellel config, which was more for aesthetics but I did try both parallel and series config and seen marginal difference at best.) The point of the TECS is not to be the main cooling component, rather chilling the water before entering components. As the cold water enters the gpu it will be heated before entering the cpu, negating the need for insulation past the gpu entry. Whatever heat the liquid picks up by the components is then cooled by my Rad, then chilled again before entering the components. I'm oc'd at just shy of 5.2Ghz on my 8600k, really hoping to push this chip to 5.3. It's already delidded with a Rockit copper IHS installed w/ liquid metal. Temps are good; breaking 74 after a few hours of ghost recon wildlands but considering the OC I'm happy.
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I watched some video of peltier directly cooling that can not be good because of the extreme condensation. Why not use peltier in radiator instead. Usual CPU have cooler have TDP above 150W where Peltier have only 92W in usual size. That low temp occurs due to poor heat distribution. I wonder what would happen if peltier plate is used as radiator. Like a reservoir with a peltier in it.
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To start off, please don't argue about "transferring cold." I did well in science so I know there isn't actually a thing as "transferring cold." This is just the easiest way to word what I'm doing. Anyway, I'm building a humidor for my cigars. I live in northern Idaho and my house doesn't have central AC so parts of my house get too hot (almost 80 degrees during the hot summer) for cigars. I need to keep my cigars around 70 degrees. I need more storage than a box so I'm turning an endtable into a humidor. My plan: Arduino to control temperature from a peltier pad. I'll build the pad into the back of the endtable with the hot side out of the table and the cold side inside with a fan. I picked up some junk heatsinks. One was a solid aluminum heatsink with fins, and the other was one with heatpipes. Real junk. I found it in a box with a Celeron processor from 1998. First off, does thermal paste work for "transferring the cold" from the cold side of the peltier pad? Second, which heatsink should I use on the cold side? Will heatpipes work transferring the cold to the humidor/endtable or should I use the solid heatsink for the cold side?
- 18 replies
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- thermal paste
- heatsink
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I was wondering. Big air coolers like the noctua nh-d15 have a flat metal surface between the heatsink and the heatpipes touching the CPU. What if you were to put a tec cooler attached to a water cooling loop not in-between the cooler and CPU. But on top of that metal bit above the heat pipes. That way you could still get a boost of cooling when needed and if the tec failed it wouldn't matter because it would'nt be in between the noctua cooler and the processor. I've seen some pretty thin water blocks it there and wondered if this would be possible or would even make a difference.
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Could it be possible to affix a 12v Peltier chip to a cpu, and use something like a Hyper t2 to cool it (it's the only heatsink I have laying around) what would be the temps I would get? (Currently I5-3570k@4.3ghz 65C on water) what would I need to do to my mobo to prevent condensation and all that bad stuff?
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I had an idea a little while back about using a peltier unit in place of a radiator to cool the liquid cooling solution. The peltier units temperature is dependent on the amount of electricity being fed to it as well as the temperature of the hot/cold side so with some tinkering it should be pretty easy to find the right balance (I'm sure someone else has approximated this). Essentially you would have your heatsink mounted either outside or near the exhaust area of your case and attached to the "hot" side of the peltier unit. The "cold" side would be attached to a custom fin to cool your solution before it heads back to your reservoir. Since my computer was stolen a few months back I can't post designs or even hope to put this into action any time soon so I'd love to see this put to practice. Here is the math involved and the basic concept. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermoelectric_cooling They can be bought online fairly cheap.
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Has anyone had any experience using thermo-electric coolers. They seem to be a cheap way to have a rig running bellow zero but no one seems to talk about them. Is there any serious flaws to using them and what considerations do I need to take into account? Should I have one between the CPU and a heat sync or use it to cool fluid to be pumped around the system?
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Has anyone tried this? I think it is a good way to deal with peltier cooling and condensation.
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Just like with my case build (link in my signature), I do this because I can and am bored, not because this is the most efficient way to dissipate heat. Lately I've played a bit with my CPU (i7 3770k) in terms of cooling and switching between passive through downclock (3.8GHz) and active through some fans after an overclock (4.8GHz) but I am still hitting a thermal wall at some point. Around half a year ago I did some school experiments with Peltier-elements (electrical heatpumps) and I still have all the pieces lying around in my room somewhere. This gave me an idea as to how I could possibly dissipate even more heat from my CPU. However, I don't want my cpu to burn up if the element dies (they are isolators so the CPU won't get rid of its heat if the element is mounted directly on it) so I have to build a buffer system so it'll still get cooled if it dies. Currently I have my computer setup like a testbench so the only things that limit my working space around the CPU will be the RAM, my GPU and the CPU power cable. The CPU power cable is far enough out of the way to not have any effect and the RAM is low enough to not bother me (valueRAM FTW). As for the GPU I will probably need to buy a 20cm PCI-e x16 riser cable for around €30 to move it away from the CPU. This should give me enough space to almost mount a big, flat heatsink on the CPU. My current plan is to bend open my Coolink Corator DS LGA2011 (got it for the experiments). Directly on the CPU I will mount a Streacom HT4 (I have yet to order this for ~€25) and on the top of the Streacom I will mount my currently used Deepcool Gamer Storm Lucifer. In the middle of the Streacom (so on the gray part of the CPU mounted plate) I will mount a 12715 Peltier-element that I will either be off, run at 5v or at 12v (depending on my CPU temperature with some relays). On top of that element I am going to put the bent open Corator DS with the cooling fins alongside the top part of the Streacom and the lucifer.
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Hi, So yea. Have been thinking about this for a while, and it is totally impractical in so many ways "BUT", would be cool for a "hey look what i did for no reason, other than braging rights". The idea i have is to take my whole pc and jam it into the smallest case i can. Keeping the watercooling block on the CPU and GPU's (8350 / 2x R9 209X), and the pump. Leaving 2x quick disconnect hoses out the back. Connected to these hoses would be the "cooling box", in wich will contain another pump, and a series of stuff to do things. Imagine the inlet tube runs to a medium sized rad (360 ish i guess), first to dump some residual heat, next into a resiviour, after that into the pump and then into 2x peltier setup's in parallel. Parallel to reduce flow rate, increasing the time that the coolant would be in contact with the cooling setups. Then back to the system. Now is a good time to say "I LIVE IN THE DESERT", it gets hot here. Ambient air temp to push/pull through rads is still not enough. The bit where i "think" im impractically clever is in the way the peltier's will work - or i "hope" will work. Each would be sanwiched between the biggest cpu water blocks i can find and probably AIO coolers (maybe even another water loop), i am thinking i can use an arduino controller with some relays to control everything. The peltiers will keep the water temp at a constant (+/- a threshhold of 5-10%), the constant would be set by a calculation of the dew point relative to the ambient temprature. This is the bit thats doing my head in, but i still think its cool - get it "coooool" In a long winded nut shell - The cooling box - - Has a usb tether to the pc, and its own power supply is activated via a 5v relay - Has a thermal control which will maintain a constant tempratue below ambient // above dew point. Regardless of load - Has a self contained res and pump (pc has its own pump aswell - tube length and resistance will be high - Has a whole bunch of sensors and stuff i cant even think of - Can be controlled on the fly via the controller - Peltier's and AIO coolers only power on when required - Peltiers have variable power controllers to act on a power curve depending on cooling needs I know right!! Totally impractical, but it could work Let me know what ya think, Ive toyed with this idea for a while, and yea, its not going to be easy, and it probably wont work the first 12 times but if it could work, and really well ???
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- peltier
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Hello all to this awesome forum.. I am nick,new to this forum.. I was looking for a custom build pc case..something that i can say.."i made this" So after hours of research i came up with a decent idea.. I will build a simple wooden case without fan holes or extra small holes.. A sealed case in fact is what i want to build with as little holes drilled as possible. Thermal insulation will be applied inside the case. The idea is to have a parallel channel outside the case(rectangular plastic tube 6x10mm) which will circulate air inside the case with 2 fans,one on each side of the channel.. But as we know that wont be enough..so inside this tube i will fit 2 quite huge heatsinks(150*70*37mm,they also need some trimming to fit snuggly inside the tube) and i will put 6 peltier devices to cool the heatsink. An arduino microprocessor will control the temps to be 20c inside the case by regulating fan speeds and the amperes going through the peltier device. Note that the cpu fan and gpu fans wont be removed for even better performance! I would like to hear your ideas about the project..but please dont mention condensation for 2 reasons.. The temps will be adjusted to a point that no condensation will occur and secondly..it will be a sealed case and any moisture the inside air has will be frozen in the heatsink and the heatsink is outside the case so this wont be real problem! Thanks..and share your opinion..i really need all the help i can find!
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Just though it might be fun for you to experiment with PC cooling with a Peltier (thermoelectric cooler). For some further reading... Here's the wiki: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermoelectric_effect And a link to some Peltiers on adafruit: https://www.adafruit.com/search?q=peltier&b=1 Hope to see a Peltier on a video soon! Thanks!
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would it be posible to make a water cooling loop with one or maybe two peltier/TEC modules, so you would sandwich them between two water blocks. the cooled water would go to the pc parts and then back to cool it self. but the thing is i don't know if it would be able to cool it self one takes typically 60-70W at 12V i know that condensation is a problem my selution for that is after you have sandwiched the peltier module between the waterblocks you spray around the water blocks with foam insulation that they are using for houses and buildings. so no air or moisture can come to the module and make condensation i've seen people doing water cooling with peltier modules but they had a separate loop for either side of the peltier module this works in my head but i don't if it will work in reality
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What do you guys think about Peltier Cooling? I was doing some research but I only could find very old videos, I plan to have my CPU(an FX 8350) @ least 10C. I don't want condensation on my system that's why i don't want to go bellow or near 0C, I actually have an H110 I don't understand much about Peltiers yet but I don't mind the extra power used Do you guys have some advice? Tips? Tutorials?