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First post. Happy to be here. Thought I'd share our latest creation here on LTT. This is a scratch built case comprised of acrylic. The front and rear of the case is a distro plate as well as the motherboard panel is a full reservior. Below are the parts used in the build. Hope you all enjoy it as much as we did creating it. Specs: AORUS X570 Extreme AMD Ryzen 9 3950X ASUS Republic of Gamers Strix RTX 2080Ti OC ASUS Republic of Gamers Thor 1200w PSU G.SKILL Trident Z RGB 64GB 4x16gb Aquacomputer AirPlex Modularity 480mm x2 Aquacomputer High-Flow Flow Sensor EK Water Blocks X3M 120mm RGB fans x8 Ek Water Blocks Magnitude for AM4 in Nickel/Plexi EK Water Blocks Vector Strix Nickel/plexi EK Water Blocks Torque 16mm HTC fittings EK Water Blocks Loop Connect EK Water Blocks DDC Pump Cooler EK Water Blocks DDC 3.2 PWM Pump Mayhems Solutions Ltd Silver Aurora FX coolant and Blue Dye MAINFrame Customs LLC Teleios Sleeving in Electric Blue, Silver, Carbon Fiber, and Black/silver Case was scratch built and made from clear and gloss black acrylic by us here at Innovative-Mods
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Hello everyone ( Sorry if this is not the forum to post something like this . ) I was planning to make a custom pc case build. looking different you tubers who are making custom pc builds like Luke's( linustechtips) water cooled pc and few desk cases inspired me to make something similar. also custom water cooling from Jayztwocents. and then I came across another pc mod which was something I love a lot which is star wars. so after making few designs( in my head not good with designing on paper or computer ), I scraped them all and started to make a model of "ANAKIN SOLO"( imperial class II ,star destroyer ). Here is the link of the model in sketch up ( not my own design ). Primary desire was to get the model done with stainless steel structure and aluminum body and the details printed by 3d printer. Plans never goes as they are supposed to . At the beginning it was ok with make the stainless steel structure . At the beginning I was thinking of making it as small as possible . but that did not went as it should have. Was looking for a good water cooled solution to get the CPU heat sink size to a minimum. but in my country it is hard to get any enthusiast level item. like getting a custom water cooled loop would cost me a whole lot than it should have. Well but to accompany the exterior design of " Anakin solo" and insider items i ended up making the design around 121cm * 66 cm and ( ) CM height. i do have some horrible designs which I have done in sketch up. But let's not look at them but look at the model itself. Most of the work has been done in a workshop. In the company i work in they have a mechanical workshop i was using the workshop there . but the project took me a lots of time to create as i was doing it only when i was free also the company workshop people were free. and it was really hard to get people free time of people. the project I started more than a year ago. in the mean time my phone LG G4 started boot looped and I lost all my previous pictures of the working project. so I will be adding the pictures that I have with the current place. Started out with getting some 3/4 inch SS flat bar. then made them into angles with half inch in one side rest in another. primary plan was to use SS quarter inch pipes but that been scraped out as soon as started working to make the chassis. Also when i was planning i thought a single layer chassis will do the work, but i was really wrong. when we started working my single layer showed that it will fail to hold such items. at the moment i also realized that an aluminum cover wont do any good with pricewise and the customization i want to be done on it. so we went with 3mm GI sheet. This is the chassis itself. the bigger rectangle will hold the motherboard and smaller one will PSU. the triangle shaped things will hold a 240mm radiator at the back. and this will sit on a spring . right now the spring does not have supports for shaking but later on it will be able to hold the structure without shaking. I cut out my old computer case to get the motherboard tray. i really wanted to buy it for security cause with my planning it the GPU was supposed to be layer down horizontally with a riser cable. i did got the riser cable thanks to one of my friend who lives in the UK . but later on there was a height issue to add the GPU on. so i decided to do the outer shell first then go to inside details. ( well hoping if i can't put my computer in i will still have a killer looking star destroyer model ). Bottom of the case. The round cut out will have only lights and a filter. and the rectangle cut out will have filter and 2*120mm Fan for air intake . Well the bottom part was quite easy. i was told not the include as people wont be able to see them . but i added them anyway because they were in the original space carft. now then the top part this was the tricky part. when i started the first thing i did was to bend the sheet to get the shape and that was a big mistake. as i later on found out that adding things in the bended sheet makes lots of problem. Now i am trying to find a solution for adding top side details . like cannons. i was planning to 3d print the cannon but i could not do it as i find it really hard to design the 3D models. i bought a cheap 3d printer from china . cost was around 300 USD. i went to china for machine inspection of the company. So it was cheap, but to get the same thing in my country it would cost me more than 1200 USD + Import tax. this was the printer ( well similar to this one ) Zbot FDM-D1 http://www.zbot.cc/index.php?m=wenbon&a=a&t=product&id=9&l=en The top part has layer on it . the first layer as shown in the picture before. this is the 2nd layer. Final layer holds this housing which will hold a ROG dual slot front panel. also the first layer holds a single bay multimedia front panel. As of today the computer will be 1. core i7 4790k 2. Asus maximums 7 ranger 3. EVGA 2400 FB 16 GB ram. 4. 120 GB Samsung 750 Evo SSD. 5. 2 TB western digital HDD. 6. Asus Strict X GTX 960.( currently out because i sold it to get gtx 1060 ) 7. Antec 550 watt PSU. 8. Asus ROG dual bay front panel. 9. Single bay multimedia front bay. 10. thermaltech water 3 AIO water cooler. Well but if I can find a good custom cooled water cooling solution I am planning to make a better build may be even will try for a AMD ryzen build. and the graphics card bumped up to to GTX 1080 ( not going to happen cause of the expense but it's nice to dream ). Am also trying to have a more detailed post of it in a blog if any one interested then i can link it to them . Now the time for lighting's . trying to find out how to go with the lights. ( manual or some auto motions ). Sorry for the bad English. And thank you, who ever made it to down here
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Not the biggest fan of the window that's provided with this case so I got some blue perspex and covered up the existing window, needed 3 layers in total to get the shade of blue I was chasing. Photos are in order of: Before, two angles. The panel without perspex. The panel with one layer. The panel with three layers, two angles. The panel with three layers with the sun behind it. The mod fitted. The mod fitted a second angle to compare with earlier. Total cost = 800JPY & about 45 mins. Required tools, tape, straight edge, box-cutters(Stanley knife) & some electrical tape thinly sliced. This is super easy & super good looking -- hope you try it.
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About a year ago, I took a bunch of standard PC components, and built a cylindrical case around it. I considered where to put the MOBO/GPU/CPU and cables; I thought about thermals and ease of accessibility. I even went so far as to have my friend CAD design a prototype, mill the aluminium, and build a case. Only, it didn’t meet my one directive – a case that was more appliance than cable monster. Stage 1: Prototype 1 (Standard PC Parts) - January 2015 Parts: · Silverstone 450W SFX PSU Gold · MSI 780 GTX Gaming · MSI ITX motherboard · 16 GB Ram · 500 GB 2.5 inch Segate HDD · intel i7 4770k CPU We measured each part, loaded them into CAD and milled the aluminium. The process took a long time. Biggest challenge was to remove visible lines from the top of the case; which we overcame using a combination of methods. We then installed the parts in the case and stress tested it using Prime95. The result: we needed a fan to aid airflow; we needed a better way to manage cables. Stage 2: Prototype 2 (Fine Tune) - April 2015 Parts: Same as Prototype 1 plus a new 140mm Thermalright fan I took the outer case we built and redesigned the inside. I used a 3D printer to do the front panel, and painted it gold. I then installed a 140mm fan on top of the case and noticed an immediate improvement in internal temps. Hot air naturally rises; a fan at the top pulling it upward accelerated the natural process – hot air was coming out quicker. But, I still wasn’t happy. The case was too tall and didn’t look right. While it was nice to have a full size GPU, more powerful mini-ITX cards (like the 970 GTX) were coming out and it was time to integrate them into my thinking. Stage 3: Prototype 3 (Making it shorter) - June 2015 Parts: Same as Prototype 2 but removed 780 GTX and replaced it with mini ITX 970 GTX I reached back out to my CAD buddy and asked him to recalculate every part. While he was doing that, I had an idea for managing the cables. What if we mounted the GPU on to a door, so when you open the door you have access to everything else – HDD, cables for power and SATA? It changed everything. The inside of the case became so much more appealing! As far as I know, no other case has this feature. We had another go at the design and once we finished another prototype, I was finally satisfied. Stage 4: Final Version - September 2015 Parts: Same as Prototype 3 We did a quick 3D print of most of the parts and CNC’d a new case and bottom. I asked my buddy to make the door’s contour match the round top. We sanded down all the parts and put it all together. The result was amazing. We continued to tweak the internal design – creating a special container for the power supply which helps direct the air from the bottom, leaving no place for hot spots. Next step – create a polished version that we would paint, assemble and test. Stage 5: Final Version Part 2 - October 2015 Now that we had a working version we all liked, we needed to recreate it with precision. After a year of design, redesign, testing, tweaking, and modifying, i finally finished the case. I love the design and that I can customize it how I want with mini-ITX components. It’s upgradeable, and the premium quality materials we used (high-grade aluminum, electronic paint finish) give it the look I set out for – an aesthetically pleasing computer case that’s as comfortable in a living room as a gaming system or in an office as a workstation. Would love to hear the Linus community about my build Alexander Gomez
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This is DIY Case Mod Guide for modifying your Corsair 900D / 750D / 350D, but technique can be adopted to any case bezel to help improve airflow to your Liquid or Aircooled PC system Tools & Supplies: Modder's Mesh, Round Sheet, http://mnpctech.com/case-mods-gaming-pc-liquid-modding-custom-computer-mnpctech-overclock-cooling-fan-grills/modders-mesh-perforated-aluminum-steel-honeycomb-grill-intake-front-fan-slotted-diamond-round-hex/modders-mesh.html In Order of Usage 1. Ruler or Measuring Combination Square, http://www.amazon.com/Empire-Level-E250-Professional-Combination/dp/B000ETUNEU/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1371561237&sr=1-2&keywords=measuring+square *2. Pen & Black Marker, http://www.amazon.com/Sharpie-30001EA-Permanent-Marker-Black-SAN30001EA/dp/B00584PWWO/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1371565029&sr=1-2&keywords=sharpie+black 3. Phillips Screw Driver, http://www.amazon.com/STANLEY-TOOLS-68-012-All-in-One-Screwdriver/dp/B00009V431/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1371561308&sr=1-1&keywords=phillips+screwdriver 4. 3" Painter's Masking Tape, http://mnpctech.com/case-mods-gaming-pc-liquid-modding-custom-computer-mnpctech-overclock-cooling-fan-grills/3m-scotch-233-performance-green-masking-tape-roll.html 5. Safety Glasses, http://www.mnpctech.com/Safetyglasses.html 6. Rotary Tool, http://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-RTX-6-3-Speed-Accessories/dp/B0001GUDRI 7. Rotary*1.5" Cutting Wheel,http://www.mnpctech.com/DremelDisc.html 8. Jigsaw Power Tool, http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=node%3D552934&field-keywords=jigsaw 9. 18 TPI bi-metal Jigsaw blade, http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-T118EF-Bi-Metal-Shank-Jigsaw/dp/B000628CZ2/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1371558431&sr=1-2&keywords=jigsaw+18+tpi+blade 10. Hand File, http://www.amazon.com/Nicholson-06601-8-Inch-Handy-File/dp/B00002N7RN/ref=sr_1_6?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1371558465&sr=1-6&keywords=hand+file 11. Blue Painter's Tape, 1" wide, http://www.amazon.com/ScotchBlue-Painters-Multi-Surface-70-Inch-60-Yard/dp/B00004Z4BB/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1371561766&sr=1-1&keywords=blue+painters+tape 12. ScotchWeld DP-190, http://www.amazon.com/3M-Scotch-Weld-Adhesive-DP190-Translucent/dp/B0074N8N3W/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1371558594&sr=1-1&keywords=scotchweld+dp190 (Optional) 3M Applicator Gun EPX Plus II and mixing tip, for ScotchWeld, http://www.amazon.com/3M-Scotch-Weld-EPX-Plus-Applicator/dp/B001ANXYF4/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_3?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1371558713&sr=1-3-fkmr0&keywords=scotchweld+dp190+applicator 13. Disposable Latex Rubber Glove, (for applying DP190 into mesh)*http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-Helpers-Disposable-Lightly-Powdered/dp/B000DILNJ6/ref=sr_1_7?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1371558808&sr=1-7&keywords=disposable+rubber+gloves 14. Cloth or Rag, http://www.amazon.com/Essentials-14-Inch-17-Inch-24-Pack-WT24/dp/B000ICRJ4A/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1371565083&sr=1-1&keywords=cloth+rag+shop 15. Modeler or Xacto Knife, http://www.amazon.com/Xacto-X3601-Precision-Knife-Safety/dp/B00009R8JZ/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1371558896&sr=1-4&keywords=xacto+knife 16. Red Scotchbrite,http://www.mnpctech.com/3m_scotchbrite_pads_red.html 17. Filtered Respirator Mask, http://www.amazon.com/3M-Low-Maintenance-Half-Mask-Respirator-Assembly/dp/B00004Z4EB/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1371558931&sr=1-1&keywords=3m+filtered+respirator+mask 18. SEM Self Etching Primer, Black, http://www.amazon.com/SEM-SEM39673-Etching-Primer--Aerosol/dp/B000PKZ3IY/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1371558960&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=sem+self+etching+black 19. Krylon "Rust Tough" Semi-Flat Black Enamel (or Plastikote "Engine" Enamel),*]http://www.amazon.com/Krylon-RTA9203-Semi-Flat-Preventive-Enamel/dp/B000RMTDAE/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1371559001&sr=1-1&keywords=krylon+rust+tough+black+flat Corsair Factory Front Bezel Plate. Corsair gives you 3/16" gap around the plate from the factory for airflow. This modification will be huge improvement for cooling your system. The front plate pulls off without any effort. It's removed for accessing and cleaning the Corsair 900D's three 120mm front cooling fans and filter. You have option to remove the Four plastic mounting pegs, or leave them on throughout the entire modification process. It's your choice! The pegs are fastened on with Phillips head screws. The best tape is 3M Scotch 233+ Green tape 3M Scotch Green 233+ masking tape is used by Automotive Paint Professionals. It's highly conformable to curved surfaces on both metal and plastic. It has good adhesion in a large range of weather conditions. It will peel off without leaving any sticky residue. Most Auto Body Supply Stores should be stocking this tape. It's also readily available online. 3M Scotch *233+ tape has a premium price compared to other tapes, but it performs the best*