Search the Community

Remember all those 4090 cards being frantically separated from their GPU chips in China? Well, someone found a business opportunity for all the leftover PCBs and coolers. Quotes Like usual, just beware of too good offers from shady dealers. Source: https://videocardz.com/newz/scammers-are-now-selling-rtx-4090-graphics-cards-without-gpus

Hi all, my Asus PRIME X570-Pro has a damaged PCB trace due to a screw driver damaging it. I have the tools and soldering skills to repair the trace. However I am unsure how the trace looked like before it was damaged. Please see the attached pictures. If someone has this motherboard, would you be so kind to take a clear picture of the traces where my board is damaged? It is in the area between the first PCIE x16 slot and the chipset fan. Thanks for your assistance with this.

The top row of my SK64 stopped working all of a sudden. I soaked the PCB in isopropyl alcohol, dried it and plugged it in, everything's normal. But the day after the top row stops working again. LEDs still work by the way. Can someone please help?

I don’t know what happened to it or where the rest of it is, I found it on the floor of my house. I am super curious as of to what it is. I have tried to figure it out but failed. Just knowing what it does would even be nice. The wires lead to a USB cable.

Hey guys Basically I wanted to clean and apply new paste and pads to my GPU and when I was finished with everything I put it back in and the PC would not turn on. So I did the most reasonable thing and took the whole thing apart, attached nothing but the power supply to the motherboard and it did POST, having a white LED on the CPU of the Ez Debug Figured that maybe the CPU was the issue, so I got another mobo to try and it did post with it in so I got suspicious of the mobo. So I sent it in to RMA and theyve sent me this picture today. I never noticed those scratches, and they do look pretty deep since the copper is exposed, but the guys there couldnt tell how deep the scratches were and sent it to MSI to see if they can tell if they are, and if they are the culpit they told me that MSI doesnt do repairs and especially not on things like those. Now I am just wondering how the fuck did I scratch something designed to be durable with multiple layers of solder mask with my... gpu? The location of said scratches are difrectly under it. perhaps I did it with the PCI pins when blindly trying to jam it in? I dont think so but its a possibility. Most confusing part is that it does post without the cpu in, not even giving me a red light indicating that somethings wrong with the socket, and doesnt post at all when a cpu is inserted. Also Id be interested if there is a way to figure out which PCB traces do what (I have schematics but they dont really help)

Im not sure if this is the right section to ask this. I'm at my wits end, Gigabyte can't help me(big surprise) I've googled, ebay'd, aliexpress searched and I can't find anything. I have an Aorus c700(I know I'm a fanboy) I got this case on a great deal, and I stupidly snapped these pins off this pcb while removing the side panel, I see quite a few cases by other companies like Be Quiet!, use the same pcb to get RBG to front panels and side panels. Does anyone know anywhere where I can get this pcb? I really don't want to buy a whole new chassis. I can live without the side panel rgb it's no big deal, but if I can fix it I would like to. Thanks. (attaches pics for the one I broke and other cases that use the same one)

I have received a keyboard ( cougar puri ) which has a weird issue of the entire bottom row and the number row not working. The shift key also has an issue; if i tap it, randomly multiple shortcuts pop up. I tried finding a broken trace in the pcb but the shift key shortcut is causing issues. Can anyone help me out with this problem? Thanks

I am an Electronic Engineer, and while I have experience working with larger PCB etching machines. Due to the pandemic, I have not had access to my lab for several months and while breadboards and strip boards are fine, I would prefer to design and manufacture my own PCBs from home. I have no experience with Desktop CNC milling machines being used for PCB creation. While I know it can be done using copper blanks, I am not aware of respectable brands for desktop mills. So if any suggestions can be given I would be very greatful. My budget is £500 for now but can go to £1000 if needed. Links for the UK would be appreciated. Thanks

Hi there! I just upgraded my SSD from 128gb to 1tb and I installed it all correctly and everything. Everything went great and it was my first experience inside my PC. The issue began when I tried to use my old ssd with an nvme to usb adapter. I put it in at too much of an angle upwards and a small piece of the board lifted off. I luckily saved it from falling on my floor to never be found again, but the ssd doesn’t seem to work anymore. It appears in disk management as a drive that hasn’t been initialized yet, but it tells me there’s a fatal hardware error. What could I do? Reattach it? No idea how I would do that but please let me know because I’d love to use this old ssd as a tertiary storage unit.

Hi everyone, is there someone who could share his knowledge with me on the below please? I recently purchased a 970 on marketplace and the card works fine with no stability or high temp issues. As you can see for the most part the card appears to be in good condition. One thing I missed (because there was a backplate on the card) is this brown stain residue on the back. I can't tell if it's corrosion, flux residue or something else. It does not look like anything I was able to find online... I have tried cleaning with 99.9 Isopropyl Alcohol and cotton swabs / microfiber cloth but none of it has gone away. This thing is rock solid... I tried a plastic scraper very gently on a small line to see if I can scratch the surface and nothing, it will not go away.... The front side of the GPU has no visible issues whatsoever. Any suggestions??

Hi, so I just bought the RK84, knowing that the M key doesn't work and I thought that the socket just popped of or something among these lines. However the socket is in place and it has continuity when i press the switch. There is also continuity between the socket and the diode and between the M socket and the rest of the column. All the other keys work fine. Any ideas?

Hello linus tech tip forum. I have a weird problem and i don’t know if the solution i’m thinking of is possible however it’s worth asking. Basically i have a hp 2060 super which is a single fan card and i am looking for a solution to make it cooler and quieter; possibly without underclocking. I have been looking at ways to replace gpu coolers and have come across some diy fan installs on the card and some nzxt aio gpu cooler. However i haven’t found anything about wether it is possible to move a gpu psb into a different cooler. I have found a complete evga xc 2070 cooler on ebay and i’m wondering if it would work with my hp pcb. The cooler is double the size of the pcb so that could provide some difficulty. However from my basic knowledge i am aware that the cooler has to be perfect for the components on the pcb etc for it to be effective at cooling. I am unable to find any pictures of the pcb from the inside however i’ve found some from the outside. Any advise will be appreciated.

I took apart my Zotac 1080ti because one of the fans died. And as I'm taking it apart it seems that the PCB and the thermal pads are damp. The GPU is mounted vertically in my PC case.

So I have a FoxPro game call for hunting and it stop working. After doing some inspection I noticed that the board does receive power but it doesn't do any else. Hooking a 9v battery to the connector instead of the battery pack I get a flash of the green and the speaker makes noises but nothing until I jiggle the connector and then I get noise again. I tested the board and it's getting power but I'm getting no output. I was wondering what I might be causeing this issue. Thanks in advance. P.S I attached photos of the board so you have a visual with I'm working with

Recently I clean my pc like I usually do every 3 month, then I found this mess on my graphic card. So I pull out the graphic card to take a closer look and It's nasty, I dont know what that is. But the graphic card is working fine no problem at all, no artifacting, no thermal issue, or other stuff like that. So does anyone know what is this? I dont know what to do with it, I tried to clean it using isoplopyl alcohol but it doesn't come off. 1. What that is and what the cause 2. Is it harmful 3. What should I do with it GPU : Asrock Phantom Gaming RX570 thank you

Two years ago, the screws didnt bother to open up. So with the help of brute force, i managed to damage this lad. Think a bit of copper tape and epoxy mend this up? (FYI this is an AMD Radeon HD7870 GHZ edition with 8 gigs of memory) Edit: could it be the wire thats connected between the two screws causing it to not install any drivers?

I bought some memory sticks 2x8 last year, they had hiyninx CJR IC’s and I just got a new pair of the same model and I got unlucky with Samsung c die (They have the exact same model number) Turns out they also have different PCB's A0 pcb and A2; It won’t even run default/auto xmp At 3200 cl 16-18-18-38 Seems as though the manufacturers cheaped out. I got it running at 2800mhz cl16 but I’m getting over 80ns Up-volting it to 1.5v 3000mhz doesn't work, it causes too many errors and crashes.

Hi guys So i want to buy this used gtx 1050ti, but it looks like the pcb is burn or something i dont really know. but the guy sent a photo of the card passing the furmark benchmark test, so my question is will this card be fine for a long time or maybe it has a chance to die. btw its a colorful gtx 1050ti

Well, title says it. My fan PCB voltage regulator caught fire. Any reason it would of done this? It’s a crappy unbranded thing. The cables seem to be okay, and so do the fans that were connected to it, so what happened??

Hello there everyone! I was thinking I should make a little Intro to keyboards for beginners or can be a revision for seasoned keyboard enthusiast. This is an Introduction to Mechanical Keyboards and customs or just keeb stuff in general. I highly recommend checking out the Mechanical Keyboards subreddit and Keyboard Youtubers such as Taeha Types, Andy V Nguyen, Glarses, Hamaji Neo, Josef Chung, Jaeyou Park, Hipyo Tech and So many more. These channels have a lot of educational value (of keyboards) and also sprinkle a bit of comedy, some of them have sound tests of switches which I highly recommend you watching wen deciding a switch.. But now lets get into it. Lets start off with the Case. The case is the thing that holds all the shit in the keyboard together basically. There isn't really much to say about that case until we get into the PCB. Cases are usually made out of Aluminum, Plastic or Acrylic. The PCB or Printed Circuit Board is like the motherboard of the Keyboard. It registers your keystrokes and sends it to the computer, in some cases it holds your switches in (I'll talk about that later). Usually to put your switches into the PC you have to solder them with a Soldering Iron. Now today Hotswap PCBs have become more common (Hotswap PCBs are basically in every solder joint that the PCB has it is replaced with something called a Hotswap Socket, this allows you to just slot the switches inside the PCB without soldering. This is a huge time saver. The biggest manufacture of these sockets are Kale and Gateron). Another thing with PCBs is mounting. There are various of mounting styles. Popular ones include: Gasket Mount (where foam or rubber pads is stuck onto the Plate (talk about that later) or onto the board this provides a more softer typing feel and overall has more flex*), Tray Mount (That where the pcb is screwed into the case with stands off on the case, this is usually fine but most custom keyboards people are not a fan of it as it stiffens the typing feel) and So Many more! Again I encourage you to do your research on this if your interested Hotswap Sockets in a PCB DZ60RGB PCB (KBDFANS) (Example of how a common PCB looks like) *Unlike Laptop Keyboards, In the community the amount of flex a keyboard has usually contributes to the typing feel and in some cases sound and a lot of people in the community like that. Now going up! We have the plate. There isn't really much to say about the plate, sometimes is holds your switches sometimes your stabilizers, sometimes both. But what it does is it secures your switches onto the PCB and keep the aligned. It also provides an way to mount your PCB onto the case as I mentioned in the PCB section of this Post. It also changes the feel of the way you type and the sound. Metallic Plates like Aluminum and Brass provide a very stiff feel and provide sometimes a pinging noise as of plates like Polyoxymethylene (aka POM) and Polycarbonate are more flexible and provide a more dense typing sound. The Plate also changes how different keys sound scattered on the board. We're Almost There! With Stabilizers. The provide stability (as in the title) to some of the longer keys such as Shift, Caps Lock, Enter, Spacebar etc. and prevent them from leaning to the other side of you don't press on the key on center. The two types of way stabilizers are mounted are Plate Mounted or PCB Mounted (Screw ins). The way that the community measures the length of these keycaps are with the letter you. 1u for example is like one of the alpha numeric keys on the keyboard like the letters, numbers and F keys. So to measure longer keycaps all you have to do is put your 1u keycaps till they measure out. It is very referenced when buying keycaps are talking about keycaps in general but I highly encourage you to look into this. We're Here! Switches. These are probably the most known elements of a keyboard. Switches are the things in the keyboard that make the sounds. There are mainly three types of switches. Linear Switches have a "linear travel when pressed meaning they require a uniform increase in force to press the switch" (For the types of switches I will be quoting Taeha Types in his video Anatomy Of A Custom Keyboard which I think I couldn't have said better myself) "There is no bump or click to the switch to let you now when the switch is actuated" (actuated is a fancy word for when the pcb register your keystroke). "Tactile Switches follow a long linear travel usually requiring a build up of force to overcome a tactile event generally in the form of a bump, around the point of actuation. Clicky Switches are switches that have a clicker mechanism of some sort that generates an audible click of some sorts". The anatomy of a switch includes the stem which is usually a cross shaped piece usually made of Nylon but can be made out of other materials like POM which I mentioned earlier. The Spring where the Stem sits, this controls the force needed to actuate the switch. The Bottom Housing where the spring lies and keeps it together with the top housing. Now there are a lot of popular ways to categories these types with colours. Blue Switches: These switches are usually Clicky and are tactile. Red Switches: These switches are linear and usually the lightest switch in a companies line up. Yellow Switches: These switches are similar to red but have a more heavier spring and or usually more smoother popularized by the hit budget switch Gateron Yellow switches which have been dubbed in a sense "Butter On a Budget" Brown Switches: These switches are tactile no click and are a mildly controversial switch due to their stems. They are called tactile but the tactile event is so weak that some people would classify them as linears. Black Switches: These switches are usually the heaviest linears in a lineup. There are a bunch more of colours like whites and pink but to keep this post brief I'll just talk about the most popular ones. The Biggest manufactures of switches are Cherry (which is arguably the most popular one but not the best), Gateron, Kalih, JWK, Durock and So Many More! Again I highly encourage you to do more research if you are interested. To add to these a very good modification is Lube and Film. (And no we are not having sex with switches get your mind out the gutter) Lube is to make your switches sound as smooth as possible and film is a little plastic or felt piece you put inside of the switch to decrease stem wobble and make the switches sound more deep. And the last part of your build keycaps. I talked briefly about keycaps in the Stabilizers section but not in detail. Lets start with Profiles. Usually different keycaps have different shapes in turn giving a different sound and typing feel. Popular profiles include: OEM (which are the keycaps that you probably currently have on your keyboard, these are one of if not the most popular keycaps not due to efficiency of typing or sound but because more keyboard manufactures like Corsair, ROG, Razer and so on use them. These are tall keycaps and slanted), Cherry (This is a popular enthusiast keycaps as popular keycaps creators such as GMK and Tao Hao use them. They are basically smaller OEM Keycaps). SA (Another popular enthusiast keycap profile, this provides a more wooden block sound to your switches, they are a very chonky switch very tall and a bit rotund), MT3 (Similar to SA Keycaps but shrunk down a bit and shaped a bit differently). Again There are SO MANY TYPES of keycap profiles and I encourage for the last time on this post to go to further research if your interested. Now materiel of the keycaps do matter, PBT and ABS Plastic are the most popular. GMK and Tao Hao use ABS which is similar to PBT. ABS feels and sounds better but PBT legends last longer. In my opinion PBT is better for intense gamers and ABS is better for day to day typists. Terminology used to the community and/or to purchase parts: GB: Meaning Group Buy, similar to a pre order but the company hasn't made them yet. IC: Interest Check, this is usually attached with a form asking you if you are interest in their product to they can start making it. Thock: Controversial term some love it some hate it but it's the sound wooden block sound that I was talking about earlier. Vendors: Vendors are places where you can get keyboard parts, Vendors are specific to your region*. R(number): These usually means Revision, so R3 would be Revision three this is usually used when buying cases Vendors according to Regions, info taken from Alexotos Vendor Region list: Canada: Ashkeebs – Parts & accessories. – stachekeebs for 5% off Zeal – Switches, parts & kits. Keyspresso – Keyboard parts and accessories. ApexKeyboards – Canadian keyboard supplies. MTBkeys – Canadian keyboard case manufacturer. Deskhero – Keyboards, accessories, and headphones. Vintkeys – Vintage keys & accessories. Minokeys – Keyboard Parts & accessories. Mech Land – Keyboards & accessories. Malvix Studio – Keyboards parts & accessories. Keyz.io – Keyboard kits WestM – Keyboard accessories RNDKBD – Keyboard kits/parts – ALEXTHEGOAT for 5% off Gboards – Parts and groupbuys! tokeebs – Parts & accessories Shockport – Keyboards parts & accessories Alphakeys – Parts & accessories HypeKeyboards – FR4 Plates KumaMech – Parts. keycaps, & accessories Agile Cables – Cables and Desk Pads United States of America: Kinetic Labs – Keyboards accessories Space Cables – Keycaps, cables, and accessories. Omnitype – Accessories, keycaps, & more. Apiary Keyboards – Content creator and build services. Novelkeys – Parts, kits, & accessories. *DROP – General keyboard goods. Elboard Keyboard Supply – Use code alexotos for 5%! Mechanical Keyboards The Key Dot Company Originative Co Asceny Gear Cannon Keys Ungodly.design – Website Teal Technik – Website for accessories Prime Keyboards – Parts and accessories Little Keyboards – Parts and PCBs. Keycult – Premier High-end Keyboards. Ringerkeys – Lube and accessories. Clawsome Boards – Keyboard parts and macro kits! Divinikey – Parts & accessories – ALEXOTOS 5% off Prevail Key Co – Lube, parts & accessories. Bolsa Supply – Keyboards parts. LastPadawan – Keyboards and accessories. Vala Supply – Keycaps and accessories. Keeb.io – Parts, kits and more! 415Keys – Keyboard parts and switches. Typr.tools – Parts and accessories 3dKeebs – Parts & Accessories American Haptics – Keycaps and silicone work mats. Thockeys – General parts & accessories 1upkeyboards – Kits, parts & accessories Dangkeebs – Keyboards, parts & more Flashquark – Keycaps & various parts eType – Acrylic Keyboards Stupid Bullets Tech – Keyboard accessories Keyspensory – Keycaps and more! Bespokekeys – Keyboard parts and accessories. CFTKB – Keyboard kits cbkbd – Keyboard Kits Keebz – Keyboard parts & Accessories United Kingdom: Noxary – Keyboards Mechboard.co.uk – Keyboards & accessories MechSupply / Uk-Keycaps – Keycaps Mechbox – Keyboard accessories Cablecult – Cables & parts Kiwi Keebs – Parts & accessories Keebcats – Parts & accessories Merge Design – Macro Pads Unspoken Deskpads – Desk mats Caps unlocked – Keyboards and accessories Optic Keyboards – Keyboard parts Protozoa Studio – Keyboard accessories Prototypist – Keyboards, accessories and more NOESC – Switches and Keycaps Asia Kibou – Keyboards and Parts. – code “alexotos” for 5% off KBDfans – Parts, kits, & pre-assembled boards. Graystudio – Keyboard kits kprepublic – Parts, keyboards & accessories. Wuque Studio – Keyboards and accessories. Keys.my – Parts and Lube Percent Studio – Custom keyboard Monstargear – Keyboards and accessories. Melgeek – Parts and cases + extras! iLumKB – Parts zFrontier Yushakobo.jp – Keyboards & accessories. Kochi Keyboard – Keyboard parts Thick Thock – Keyboards and parts Zion Studio – Keyboards accessories and parts Mechkey Store – Keyboard accessories & cables Justkeys – Cables, artisans & deskmats Tokyo Keyboard – Keyboard kits & accessories Swagkeys – Keyboards & parts Pantheon Keys – Parts & accessories Momoka – Switches, keycaps, and switch testers Australia RAMA WORKS – Beautiful high end kits & accessories. Switchkeys Australia – Keycaps and parts! Lowkeykeyboards – Website Keyboard Treehouse – Keyboard kits / parts Daily Clack – Kits, parts and accessories Europe Salvun – Keyboards projects, parts, & more. Loob.no – A variety of lubricant’s, accessories and more. Candykeys – Website Keygem – Website Qlavier Homerow Co. – Keyboard Parts Oblotzky.Industries Mykeyboard.eu – Parts and keysets based in the EU FalbaTech – Keyboard kits Mekanisk – Keyboards & accessories Keebwerk – Keyboards & accessories Splitkb – Split keyboards and accessories Keycapsss – Keyboards parts Eloquent Clicks – Keyboards & accessories 42.keebs – Parts & accessories ioKeyboards – Keycaps and parts Central/South America: Fancy Customs – Keycaps, keyboards & parts LatamKeys – Keyboards parts and accessories RHESET – Keyboards part & accessories Africa CtrlShiftEsc – Keyboards and accessories Other: kono – Variety of keyboards. Keyhive – Parts and unique keyboard items. LFKeyboards – Website EUNBU – Vintage Switches Hexkeyboards – Keycaps & accessories AVX Works – Plates *Another great tool to use is keebmap! It’s a great interactive map of some great vendors in the hobby! Also some of the text copied weird With that said that's my Intro to Mechanical Keyboards. Have fun tearing down your Corsair K70s only to realize that it doesn't have a Hotswap PCB. Welcome to the Custom Keyboard rabbit Hole! Have fun

I need help identifying burnt SMD Component (Transistor) with the Marking Code of 26H38 from Gigabyte GTX 1070 Windforce OC 8GB.. If possible, you can provide me any available schematics or replacement for the damaged SMD Component. Other notes: I've searched the SMD Component from a Russian site http://www.chip.tomsk.ru, but i can't find any specific marking code for (26***). meanwhile S-Manuals got me interested (http://www.s-manuals.com/smd/26), I was close, but still.... What is the component's size? SOT-23,SOT-323 or something else?.. Possible Identification: "26***"; 26*3**; or 26H; the H38 - might be a date code.

Heya! I got an free 1060 Zotac by a friend of mine. The 3Gb version though. Sadly there is a broken off component on it. I could manage to find what it was through a video. It is an inductor with 4.7uH, but i dont know which Amps will flow over it. Is there a way to tell how big the inductor has to be or is there a "parts list"? I have a pic attached to show which one it is. Its labeled as L20 Thanks Kurt

Hi, I am trying to recover some data from a broken hard drive (Western Digital WD10EZEX) and was swapping the suspected broken pcb (REV A 2060-771829-005) out with a new one. I was following this video on how to swap the BIOS chip over to the donor board when removing the BIOS chip I broke of the leg from pin 4 . It seems like it require some rocket surgery to attach the leg back on and there's no easy way to hold it back on. I found out that pin 4 on the BIOS chip in question (Winbond W25Q20BW) is the ground pin. Can I just solder my BIOS chip to the donor board with no ground pin connected? Or is this incredibly naive and wont work?

Hi, I am in need of a new keyboard and have been delving into custom keyboards. I have come to love the idea 98% southpaw with the arrow keys. By stroke of luck I see that "Joshajohnson" has already built one and made it available on Github: https://github.com/joshajohnson/entropy. However it is not using iso layout, which I personally find to be essential if I am going to spend a substantial time and money this project (I realy like chonky enter). So with the files available I have edited them such that they are using iso layout, but I seem to be doing something wrong. I have error on my result, and I also have errors before I start editing the file. I have never touched KiCad before so I don't know what I am doing. How can I get help with this project? Is there discord servers for custom keyboards or people who are enthusiastic about PCB design? TLDR: I want to build custom southpaw 96% with iso layout. I have a non iso Project on Github I can use as reference, but KiCad is to advanced for me. How do I go about this?

i spilled a bit of tea on my keyboard the other day and kept using it cause it didn't look like much. sure enough a few hours later the entire A row of keys stopped working i left it to dry for a day and opened it up, and tried to clean it with rubbing alcohol. i don't know what to do its a mechanical keyboard with RGB switches the hyper x alloy origins core. i do have a soldering kit but i don't know if the keyboards even salvageable i probably shorted something huh?. circled row that's not working. the arrow keys that had some corrosion on the solder. this microchip? has some sticky residue and some of the contacts are yellowed, i think its labeled u3.