Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'panda'.
-
YOK Purple Trash Panda - The Scratchiest Tactile I've EVER Used
jiyeon posted a blog entry in Sowon's Switches Reviews
The YOK Purple Trash Panda is the tactile (and purple) edition of the YOK Trash Panda, a linear switch which is made to be a base in the Frankenstein switch, the Holy Panda. What sparked my interest about the YOK Purple Trash Panda - which I will be referring to as the Purple Panda - is that the product description across NovelKeys and mykeyboard.eu as well as other keyboard forums was that they described the Purple Panda as having the same actuation and tactility traits as the famous boutique switch, the Zealios V2. You can read my review of the Zealios V2 by clicking here. On the left is the Purple Panda's stem, and on the right is the Zealios V2's stem. At first glance, you really do see striking similarities between the two switches, such as the stem legs and the color. It's like YOK were intentionally replicate the Zealios V2 and it shows below. The main difference to both stems is the material, the Purple Panda is extremely rough to the touch as well as lubing, the material feels so unfinished and it's such a shame as it makes the switch so scratchy so use. I had to heavily lube the switch with Krytox 205g0 thick lube in order to solve the scratchiness and spring ping, and even then it didn't even rival an unlubed Zealios. The Purple Panda feels like it was sent one production line early and just isn't as polished as I feel it could've been. It's far too scratchy no matter what. If there's any redeeming qualities about the switch - which are minimal and already listed to begin with - it's that the tactility is awesome. The tactile bump at 67g feels great if not more sharp than the Zealios V2 at 62g and 67g weights. The Polar Panda's leaf in the housing is responsible for this trait which is why the YOK Panda line's switches, specifically the housings, are so sought after to create Holy Pandas. The housing is the best part of this switch unfortunately. I totally know what this switch is not best used as is and is best used to create the Holy Pandas, but I wanted to judge the switch as it is due to the fact that it is a purple variant of the YOK Trash Panda, and why would YOK create an alternate stemmed Trash Panda if the Panda housings are made to create Holy Pandas? Unfortunately in my use case, that's been answered by the fact that the stem is so scratchy and irritable that you shouldn't used these switches in the first place. It's not a bad switch by any means, and for the $0.60 per switch it retails for on your average mechanical keyboards online retailer, it's a great tactile switch that beats the Gateron Brown easily. The stand-out problem with these switches is how scratchy, unkempt, and rough the stem is, it pales in comparison to the Zealios V2 which is so what it tries to replicate, and falls flat on its face due to the low quality of the stem. Overall, it's a tactile switch that I'd take over an MX Brown, but nothing I would actively go after due to how rough and dry the switch feels to use. -
So after 9 months of waiting I finally got my THX Panda's in my hands, they sounded absolutely incredible... for the first few hours I owned them. Unfortunately after a few hours of use they refuse to power on or charge. I still get the charging LED, but that's about it. Plugging them into my PC via usb (type A to type C) They recognize as an audio device but are quiet and with loads of feedback I've tried a variety of different chargers and cables, but can't get get any other life. I've reached out to Drop.com for a potential RMA but haven't gotten a response. And of course because they're so new I can't find any threads relating to troubleshooting. Any tips?
-
I made a post a couple hours ago about my wifi adapter acting funny and was trying to seek help about it. I got some recommendations to install the driver for my adapter and I have but I am still getting the problem. What I realize is that whenever I use the Xbox App on my PC the wifi stats acting up and starts to disconnect and reconnect but only when I open a internet browser. So whenever im not using the app the connection is perfect and I dont see a problem. Now when I try to play the new game Sea Of Thieves (which is connected to xbox servers) + the xbox app, the wifi adapter completely gives up and doesnt connect to anything. With Sea of Thieves running alone, it dcs and connects again but its impossible to play. Does anyone know a solution to this? It has to be something with the game, but i dont know what to do. The adapter is a Panda PAU07 on windows 10
-
- seaofthieves
- connection
-
(and 3 more)
Tagged with:
-
Update as of 21/6: Starting to build up the new thread for the system to compare this against, the older brother to the Killer Panda. Go check it out here ---------------------------------------------------------------------- 24/5-18 13:19 (sorry for the delay) FINISHED PICTURES, LETS REVEL THIS PANDA! A big thanks for everyone showing an interest in this build, it's been a long journey and it does not stop here, I'm still not done with the closet to put it in or the new desk setup, so will do some little updates as that comes along to. But the main attraction is done: It's a really really tight fit to make everything I wanted possible in this case, but I did it! Bonus beauty shot: My re-made GPU cooler and active m.2 cooler is both working like a dream That slim 15mm fan was a really good idea, on top of a AquaComputer Kryo M2 Everything from my extended PSU mount, to my external EPS cables and my tons of fans are blending in pretty neatly IMO. If I had not made a long build log about it, then you would probably not have a clue about all the work I have gone trough, I have exchanged every screw and pop rivet in the case, painted, put vinyl, drilled and more on all surfaces. It was already a very rare and unique case to begin with, now even more so. And now, the killer panda! The really strong sunlight played monkey tricks on me, it is red and black, not orange, will try and get better pictures indoors another day. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Desktop update! This is the front logo seen from indoor light, more like how it looks in real life. The black aluminum and black vinyl is almost the same tone, so it's only in very specific angles and light conditions that the panda is visible, it's a shy animal. The closet setup at the spot it was intended to be right from the start. You can also kind of see the 3x ML140 Pro white light fans there suck air up to the upper compartment, where the other 2x ML140 fans are placed on the inside of the air ducts - with the help of the 2x ML120 inside the ducts to draw the hot air out. Works better than I could have hoped for actually, at idle the CPU is staying around 40C with a very warm room temp of 27C because of summer. Tried to take pictures so you can see the helping mirrors, they are mostly for a purpose other than *bling*, but actually they are more useful when the system it not finally installed and the system can be pushed around a little, as I can way better look behind it and inside it, to see if everything is installed the way I intended it. Remember, it is a closet after all, there is really limited space and I have to stand on something to reach there, so to get all the help I can i.e. to plug in a cable behind, that is a huge bonus. Speaking of mirrors, I did the same behind my big a$$ monitor. Here it's slightly easier to show you what the purpose is. I can see the inputs! Looks like this from the front, the "bubble" at the end of the table is my brand new Hue Go lamp that I just picked up, am charging it now to play around with tomorrow. Same setup looks something like this at brighter light. Sorry for the colors, my camera and indoor light is not the best combo so tried to compensate in post process and ended up at this. From another angle If you wonder why I have 2 keyboards, then the wireless Logitech one is connected to 2 machines below the table, where I'm also hiding my music DAC I use for well yea, music, and right now my surround headset is plugged into one of the machines, my "Mini3" i3 based tiny magnetized PC that can carry it's own weight under one of the desk shelves. The other one is an even lower powered Linux machine only used to browse the web on, if I don't need any power for anything extra, build both of them out of scrap parts I had laying around from other builds that are worth too little to sell but are too good to throw away. I'm trying to keep it pretty clean with no visible cables under the desk, mainly because my son loves to stay under there when I play games, so he can watch a movie or sleep. Stay tuned if interested in a last update about the numbers of this PC, all the specs and benchmarks. Cheers m8 ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ORIGINAL POST: I have for now the better part of 3 months been trying to plan out what to do to re-build my gaming PC. It's about time to start logging it as work is now underway. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Interruption: As of 20/5-2018 I can now foresee the future and put a deadline on the build: The Big Reveal Deadline Thursday 24th of May at 12:00 midday (GMT+1) Danish Time (I'm from Denmark) I am still not sponsored by anyone, or have anyone help with building it, it's all my own doing and there is a ton of parts, so assembly is not super quick, sorry. More than 16.000 people have seen the 4 threads there is showing of this work: Bit-tech.net Overclock.net Tweak.dk Linus Tech Tips Back to the original program.... ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- A little story first, I build my first PC when I was 10, so I have 20+ years of hobby experience in building and using computers. I'm not a IT pro by any means, I work in a total different area of expertise as my daily job. I currently have 7 desktops and 3 laptops, all purpose builds for the tasks they need to do. This one is my primary PC, my gaming PC. I reside in Denmark, northern Europe, and here specialized hardware like the things I would like to use, usually cost more than other places and is hugely difficult to get your hands on, so I might not use the exact same components as you would, because I can't get them here or can't afford them. Because of that last fact, keep in mind I don't speak English natively, but it does help me I have lived in multiple countries and have a African wife who I'm speaking English with daily. This is not going to be a quick build, I do have a family with two little kids and a lot of things to attend to. The panda is my favorite animal, its starting to be quite rare, its usually calm and its neutral colored - that's going to be a bit of a theme here for this build, not overly much but a bit. Lets get on with it! The build so far looks like this, a full on mess, as parts are starting to get chosen, ordered and delivered. As you can kind of see in the picture, the PC is inside a closet, as I really hate noise and I want it locked away when I'm not home in case of theft (I have one time had a break in and now since then fortified my house, as I don't even want to tempt a thief ever again). It looks a bit like this: I'm an Sketchup addict, I admit that. So for months I have tried to plan out the build by spending many many hours drawing up parts. Now I have kind of given up and just order the things I know I want and hopefully my idea will come to life. This is the only parts im perfectly sure of how to fit in my case, the CPU block, the radiator, fans, motherboard and gpu. The rest will be figured out as they arrive. The parts as of now: Asus Maximus Code X Z370 motherboard Intel i5 8600K Der8auer Advanced Edition CPU 16 (2x8) GB Corsair Dominator Platinum DDR4 2400MHz CL10 RAM Zotac Amp Extreme GTX 1070 graphics card Corsair Force MP500 120GB NVME SSD for boot 500 GB backup HDD for live recovery drive (in case I tinker too much and something wacks up) 1TB WD Black for games, 2,5inch drive (because its way quieter than the 3,5inch version and still really awesome) Corsair ML120 120mm fans (right now its a pair of 140 on my prolimatech cooler, but will of course be removed when I have the CPU block, I have a tower of Corsair ML fans laying around). Phanteks 120mm Halos Lux fan frames HW Labs Nemesis GTS 240 white radiator (not installed yet) EVGA SuperNova G2 750watt Gold PSU Koolance 702 coolant (not installed yet) All sorts of wire extensions to make it pretty. A panda sticker A blood spatter sticker Bamboo tape When I assembled it as of now in the temporary state, it hit pcpartpicker: https://pcpartpicker.com/b/h929TW I have a pump, top and housing on the way in the mail from UK and a Alphacool reservoir from Germany also on the way. Fittings to be determined, same as tubes, block I want a heatkiller IV Pro but have not ordered it yet.
-
Hi guys. I wanted to uninstall panda internet security with free antivirus trials, because it is just a horrible program, slowing my Surface pro 3 down by alot. Now mid uninstall everything freezes, forcing me to do a hard reboot. not even task manager or charms would work :'( Now everything turned on again but the frigging panda program is still here. When i try to uninstall it through the programs menu a Spanish error message pops up telling me that something went wrong and pointing towards some error log in the temporary data of my pc How do i get this program of mah damn PC?!?!?! PS: Panda bricked my surface already back in spring when they released a bad update, but i thought they have learned from their mistakes so why not try it out again? http://www.zdnet.com/article/panda-antivirus-mistakenly-flags-itself-as-malware-breaks-pcs/