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For R20,R15 and R11.5 you can download all of them at once and run them through benchmate https://benchmate.org/ The latest version of cinebench R20 is out! download it here > https://www.microsoft.com/en-gb/p/cinebench/9pgzkjc81q7j?activetab=pivot:overviewtab Download R15> http://www.guru3d.com/files_details/cinebench_15_download.html To download any version of cinebench, type cinebench into google! To download cinebench 2003 go to > http://hwbot.org/ < then benchmarks> processor benchmarks> then click download. its a rar file so you will need to open it with 7zip or a similar program. To download cpuz or gpuz, type them into google and get the latest version. FAQ: How do i get my score put on the spreadsheet? You wait a very very very long time How many times can i post my scores? you can post as many scores as you like with as many different cpu's as you like. if you have 2 of the same cpu then let me know. only the highest score you get with a cpu will go on the spreadsheet. (e.g if you have a score with a 2500k@3ghz and then improve your score with your 2500k@4ghz then your score at 3ghz will be deleted and your score at 4ghz will go on the spreadsheet. if you get a with a 2500k@3ghz then upgrade your cpu to a 2600k@ 3ghz you will keep both scores. Why is my gpu being beaten by a much slower gpu on the open gl test? This will probably be because your cpu is slower single thread. the open gl benchmark is designed to be limited as much as possible by your cpu, so if your gpu is getting beaten by much slower gpu's. overclock your cpu more! How do i run the single thread test? In the top left hand corner, click file, then advanced benchmark. this should bring up 'cpu (single core)' underneath the normal cpu test. this test takes much longer as it only uses one core and one thread. Post a screenshot of your score in this thread with cpuz so we know the clock speed (dont crop the screenshot) Memory and motherboard tabs are optional, but are useful if you are looking for tips for higher scores you can take a screenshot by press shift and prt sc on your keyboard. then to see you screenshot open paint (with comes installed with every copy of windows) then you can either press ctrl and v or paste in paint and the screenshot will appear in paint you then save the file as a .jpeg somewhere you will be able to find it later open the interwebs and upload it to your gallery on the forum or upload it to a place of your choice and simply copy and paste the image into a new post on this thread Top tips to a high score: 1) Don't have any other programs running while you are doing the benchmark. This includes temperature monitoring software and cpuz. if you are concerned about your temps do one run with the monitor open to check they dont get too high, then another run without it open. 2) Overclock your cpu and gpu! 3) take your side panel off your case, open a window or go in a colder place. less heat+more overclock=higher scores. 4) Run the tests separately a few times this can get you that last extra point. 5) Run it on a fresh install if you can. fresh installs are always faster. 6) Don't use your 24/7 oc. top scores will be done with overclocks that might be too hot or too unstable for normal use. 7) more ghz on your cpu is always good, but make sure your ram is running at its full potential too. Normally 1600mhz cl8 will be faster than 1866mhz cl10. get that cl down as low as possible while trying to maintain a good memory frequency. link to scores google doc (R20)> https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1ItbDCn4dPaJANGgFczL3uCZRquxZXQM9Kmn17kCBdZE/edit?usp=sharing link to scores google doc (R15)> https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AlC81MjwelBgdEZNV3l6aHl1eUNwSUR4Rml0MXMzN1E&usp=sharing link to scores google doc (R11.5)> https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AlC81MjwelBgdGpFa3BPaG5QRG1QREFPU3A0dWdVTlE#gid=0 link to scores google doc (2003)> https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AlC81MjwelBgdGVQQnFRVUNxTjZPYVdjT1pDdHA0MUE#gid=0 R15 Extreme Score have now been integrated into the R15 sheet Example Screenshots: How your ram speed can affect your cinebench scores. R11.5 R15 Watch the Pros at MSI MOA 2014! 12/12/14: 250 submissions. Cheddle

Hi all, here we go again -amd 5900x -asus crosshair viii / WiFi (all was done with latest bios installed first - 5702 or something. Late march 2024) / ekwb waterblock made for the board, covers the vrms and cpu (only mounted with 4 screws but not fun to remove) -4x Corsair vengeance 18@3600, 16gb each (QVL ok) SIDE NOTE do have 4x 16@3200 16g sticks, nighthawks by teamforce. DOCP didn’t work / non qvl so swapped em out quite a while ago - no problems, just saying I have a spare set -asus 4090 w custom waterblock -xfx 6700 xt w custom block -pci 1x to 16x riser, usb 3.0 (unused ATM but plugged in) -quadro 4000 rtx -more radiators than necessary -all the fans are thermaltake something’s, high end/expensive. No RGB, either 2500/3000 rpm peak 120s and 140s -thermal take dc5 pump with 500ml res. -another dc5 pump connected to the drain ports on the top radiator (420mmx60mm) with a seperate 1L res. It’s there for redundancy and to help the primary pump cycle the water, yes that many radiators…. Still have one 140mmx60mm on “standby” waiting to be installed MORE IMPORTANTLY -seasonic 1000w bronze blah blah, ONLY powering the motherboard, cpu (aux cpu too) and 4090. Only powering the molex for the TT pump. I mean face it, I’ll use the best brand to power the most crucial stuff -“gamemax” 1050w bronze powering 8x sata drives, the fan hub, 6700/quadro and molex to pump 2 (“jump started” with lol, one of my many mobo this pin to that pin things) this guys outside the case -DO have a spare psu, seasonic 1500w PLATINUM, Corsair. Had it in a while ago then did math and figured out at 80% peak efficiency (assuming) I had ~1200w to work with. Say the least when the pc was under 100% load it couldn’t sustain and my system would just shut off. Again doing math, 230w max TDP on cpu, 75w per pci, 8x SSDs, fan hub, toss in the video cards…. Yeah. Should mention it’s an EU version (I guess it’s better than US? I dono, wasn’t intentional), have a EU to US 120v power cable. It’s gotta be 12/10 gauge per wire, pos/neg/ground. Easy to find in my cache of pc stuff cause duh. It’s super thick +since I noticed issues with power that’s when I took it out an opted for 2x PSU’s rather than one (thing was large too, had to pull out the aforementioned 140mm radiator to make room) -thermal take TT71 view full/E-atx case, it’s all been taken apart to a skeleton since I did the psu swap. Yes I did swap the Corsair power lines for the appropriate PSUs, pain in the butt -both PSUs are plugged directly into the outlet and each outlets are on seperate breakers (haven’t tripped one… yet) -2x Samsung 980 1tb nvmes, 2023 manufacture date, made in Korea or Vietnam… forget. HAD 2021 variants which thanks to Samsung failed to release a “notification” to update the firmware immediately or your drives will die. Just saying, anyone reading this, yeah… -GPU’s are installed top to bottom in order mentioned (think that’s all, at least what’s relevant?) PROBLEM: Q-code reads 00, can’t do bios flashback via usb cause I noticed they don’t light up on POST. See “what I’ve tried” for more details. WHAT MAY HAVE HAPPENED: day prior I was fiddling with overclocking the CPU. Using HWinfo for duh, cinebench r23/aida64(prime95?)/nicehash(only cpu was enabled) for monitoring and writing down voltages per core, core “order” preferred. Basicallly I was handwriting cinebench scores (5 min stress multi and single), hashrates etc along with the values as reported by HWinfo, voltages/temps and so on. I had NOT been working with the PBO scalar at this point. ALL bios were stock aside from a few minor areas unrelated, SVM and 4g decoding, raid, disabled EDC (whatever for power efficiency/auto downstepping, ERP?) anyway I had gotten to 46x multiplier in main menu, CCX 0/1 to 46 also. Power settings were set to “extreme”, 120% on cpu, 140 (I think) on DRAM. most settings were either enabled or left to auto. If I recall correctly I eventually just went to auto to eliminate variables by the time I got to stressing it I wrote down values, my notes are in the office, I noticed at 4600mhz (cores aren’t set to go faster or slower) the mobo wouldn’t supply more than 1.300v per core, 12 total. At this point cinevench would crash and Nicehash would “blow up” the pc (immediate shut down) so I toned it all down to 43x, ccd0/1 too. Figured I’d be on the safe side doing so, plus I got the best results in my notes. ~20100 on cinebench, .00890 hashrate (again may be inaccurate, notes upstairs) tpu I and II set to “none”, uh that application preference thing to “none” (It has options for Geekbench, cinebench and 2 others) BLCLK at 100.00 from there I had her mining all night, after a few hours I enabled the 3 GPUs. Woke up the next day and yep, all was still good and going. ~1.204v avg on all cores So now I’m like… hmm. Let’s try to increase the voltage one step at a time and keep the everything the same. I have a saved bios profile on a USB of the most stable setup so why not? I forget what the positive increments were but from none I hit “+” and it… offset, increased? Idk whatever it did, by like .00264 something. The minimal amount Saved, restart, windows was stable. Though I did notice the monitor would go blank on login (auto login via registry). The gpu would kick in (after the “dos” spinny image) and I’d see my username which has a profile pic of my dog, blank, dog again pc is thinking, blank, then desktop as usual. Mind you the “blank” was just black screen and basically a quick flicker i don’t recall checking HwInfo, my assumption was my clock speed was too “low” for the additional voltage. I naturally figured no point in stressing it or checking restsrt, bumped up one more (now we’re at + twice, so two “minimal” increments) and went to 4600 to compensate. I mean, 4600 worked fine aside from crashing due to the 1.3v “lock” I noticed the day before. Hence why I stepped it up a tad one last time bam, BSOD loop. Whoopsie. now this part I’m unsure as I don’t remember completely what I did. Back to bios, removed the voltage offset, went down to 43x all over, and I’m pretty sure I adjusted the VRM/delivery from extreme to optimal, put cpu voltage to 120% peak, down’ed the ram to 110%. Basically my mindset was I’m getting too excited and I had best stay in a safe bubble. save/restart ahhhhh darn, q-code of 00 and nothing. Literally no POST, waited watching the q-code LED and no change. Fudge! WHAT HAVE I TRIED? -first logical step, hit the clear CMOS button on the IO panel, the green one. It’s worked in the past just not with a 00 code. No dice -thought for a second, looked at the manual. Hm, there’s a button on the motherboard for safe boot. Ok. Squeezed my finger in there blind and felt it (the little button isn’t by any others by far) and pushed it. Nope -flipped off the power, waited maybe ten seconds then unplugged the PSUs. Waited idk ten minutes, reversed the above and hit the glowing start button. Nothing. Tried safe boot again, nothing -snap, now I’m in a pickle. Removed power sources as noted above and flipped the switch on the motherboard for SLOW MODE. Yes only switch on the bottom, mentioned in manual, yada yada. Power applied again, still 00. Well… let’s reflash the bios via the button and a usb -flipped safe boot off, (done this before) and used a laptop (hp 8760w/32g/3x SSDs/m.2 as boot/datacenter 2022) to setup a usb. First used a 128g drive, went to format and duh, ntfs or exFAT. Nah that won’t work, plus it don’t have a blinky light as an IO indicator. Grabbed my BIOS drive with the saved profiles, shoved the same bios I have on it, root directory and renamed to C8HW.cap (whatever it should be). No go. It’s only a 512mb but I do know the pc is finicky about it and spits a Qcode if I load a profile/save/reboot and leave it plugged in. Eh maybe it’s just the stick, no biggie -busted out my ziplock of flash drives. All varying capacities and brands. One drive was too large (according to manual it says = or less than 2gb) so I just did diskpart and cleaned the volume. Then cleaned the drive. Made a 1g partition at the “start” of the drive and fat32’d it. No dice again 1gb drive, another 512, and a 256mb (haha yep), all done same as above minus the partitioning. Just clean/format fat32 and “whatever”.cap. Nothing read a thread that said sometimes using windows to unzip a file can corrupt a bios file. Winrar is a better option, ok Last attempt, 512mb stick I usually use, same process just with winrar. Nothing Manual says once the button goes blue it’ll blink and stay blue, could take some time but once it isn’t blue anymore it’s done. So pc is still sitting there with the blue light on and stuck in the obvious port labeled for flashback (just being descriptive for sake of a response asking if I used the correct usb port) so far, nothing -prior to the last/current usb, swapped cpu power from the seasonic to the “gamemax”. No go. Figure that was a pointless route since just below the power headers has a red light that stays illuminated if, duh, no power (provided the mobo has power). Power delivery is fine -also removed cpu-opt fan from header. Removed HUB from cpu header and plugged in a spare fan. Still 00 -oh and left the pc with no power for at least 24 hours. Both PSUs off and unplugged. Nothing - even without the “gamemax” PSU connected CONCLUSION? 00 indicates a cpu issue or a motherboard issue. Taking a wild guess tinkering with the bios, trying to reflash it entirely messed it up. Without a UART flasher I can’t do it manually also I might have messed the cpu up. Not sure if it’s plausible cause a MOBO of this… nature has failsafes built in to prevent “blowing it up”. I’ve had similar issues in the past and instead of panicking I just let it sit without power, then all would be fine as mentioned the usb sticks never blink even without hitting the reflash button. So if the mobo don’t detect a cpu, it stops any POST attempts thereafter. Hence, no usb activity. Sure my crap via usb gets power, gaming mat and junk. Otherwise nothing i dont have a spare cpu laying around to try out. Kinda wish I did! Prior to all this mess I was playing Horizon Forbidden West CE on my G9 with full settings on. Blah! so now ya know the story. What to try first? Only thing I haven’t done is take out all the GPUs or swap the ram. Highly doubt it would matter, no cpu? POST wont check anything beyond that keep in mind the board DOES have “pins” to check voltages with a voltometer. Meh, maybe try that? any, any ideas would be a great help. (Whining) I wanna play my games! BTW as mentioned I have a usb with saved profiles on it. I been backing em up since I finished the build. If anybody has a way of viewing them (dono how, are they saved in text?) maybe that would provide best course of action?

Im considering overclocking my cpu, but ive heard mixed opinions on the health risk it poses towards components. Can overclocking fry your motherboard or cpu? If it can, what is a safe level of overclocking that will deliver a good boost in performance while still staying safe? I have a 7700x

I HAVE ONLY TESTED THIS ON MY K3000M, YOUR MILEAGE MAY VARY AND I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR BRICKED GPUS! (though usually these are fixable) THIS IS A BACKSTORY STYLE THING JUST SAYING HOW I DISCOVERED THESE VALUES, SCROLL DOWN FOR THE TUTORIAL So I was searching around for a simple tutorial on how to use Kepler BIOS tweaker to modify my Quadro's vBIOS and couldn't find anything, I tried changing default clocks, 3D clocks, turbo clocks, turbo tables, but nothing seemed to work so i found a modified vBIOS for a k5000m and opened both a stock k5000m image and the OCed one and compared which values were changed from stock. I noticed that certain things I hadn't thought of were changed. This worked fine on my K3000M but I have not guarantee if it works for others though I assume it should work for Kepler and because the values are present on Maxwell as well it might work. These screenshots show the original vBIOS (left) and modded one (right) for the k5000m. I noticed that instead of adjusting TDP Base Clock (which is what seemingly every youtube tutorial says to do) he enabled the 3D base clock and turbo clock by changing them to entry 2 and 3, then modifying the values. This still didn't work for me so I drove deeper and noticed that the GPC and XBAR values were set differently between the cards so I set these to the overclocked speed and it worked! Tutorial: Step 1 Download the required software: You need a copy of GPU-Z, maxwell or Kepler bios tweaker (depending on if your card is 600-700 series (Kepler) or 800-900 series (Maxwell)) and nvflash GPU-Z: https://www.techpowerup.com/download/techpowerup-gpu-z/ Kepler BIOS Tweaker: https://www.techpowerup.com/download/kepler-bios-tweaker/ (600-700 series cards) Maxwell II BIOS Tweaker: https://www.techpowerup.com/download/maxwell-ii-bios-tweaker/ (900 series cards and maybe 800 series? idk I can't seem to find a Maxwell I BIOS tweaker) NVflash: https://www.techpowerup.com/download/nvidia-nvflash/ Step 2 Export your card's current BIOS: Open GPU-Z, you should see a little arrow coming of of a rectangle next to the BIOS Version box. Click it, it should prompt you to give it a name, Your screen might go black for a second THIS IS FINE! it needs to restart the GPU in order to save the image. Step 3 modifying the image: GPU-Z should have given you a .rom file. Open Kepler/Maxwell II BIOS tweaker, select 'open BIOS' at the bottom left and open the .rom file. You should be on the 'common' tab, on the left where is says 'Boost Clock' set that to your desired clock speed (KEEP IN MIND! you don't want to set this too high right away, you can still use MSI afterburner to add 135Mhz ON TOP OF the clocks you set!). IF the Boost Clock option is grayed out, set 3D Base Entry to 'Entry #1' and Boost Entry to 'Entry #2', this should enable the boost clock option. You can also modify the memory clock here but it's not recommend because MSI afterburner can also do this and it's very rare to see a GPU that can overclock it's memory past +1000Mhz Next go to the 'Boost Table' tab, at the bottom there is a slider, slide it to the same value you set the boost clock at on the common tab. Then go to the 'Boost States' tab, under the second 'P00 - Profile' block (if you only have 1 idk, it probably would work setting the 1st one, but I haven't tried it) in the second column there are 2 values 'GPC' and 'XBAR', set BOTH of these to the same value as the 'boost clock' and 'boost table' slider. Hit 'Save BIOS As' (I recommend saving as a separate file just in case you need to flash the original vBIOS later on) Step 4 Flashing the modified BIOS: Open the zip of NVflash you downloaded and extract it to a directory (I recommend something simple like C:\vBIOSmods\ etc.) Copy your modified .rom file that you got from the BIOS tweaker to the same folder as NVflash. open device manage, go to display adapters and disable your GPU (the screen will go black for a second and if you have multiple monitors they might not all come back on, don't worry this is only temporary while the GPU is disabled.) open an Administrator Command Prompt and CD to the folder with NVflash and the rom file The commands are slightly different depending on if you are on 32 bit or 64 bit windows and if you have more than 1 Nvidia GPU in the system. replace ROM FILE with the name of the modified .rom file: if you are on 32 bit windows with a single Nvidia GPU type: NVflash -6 "ROM FILE" if you are on 64 bit windows with a single Nvidia GPU type: NVflash64 -6 "ROM FILE" if you are on 32 bit windows with a multiple Nvidia GPU type: NVflash --index-0 -6 "ROM FILE" if you are on 64 bit windows with a multiple Nvidia GPU type: NVflash64 --index-0 -6 "ROM FILE" MAKE SURE IT DISPLAYS THE CORRECT GPU ON THIS SCREEN: IF IT DOES NOT, change '--index-0' to '--index-1' and keep going until it displays the correct GPU! Once you see matching values on that screen, press y to begin the flash. DO NOT TURN OFF YOUR COMPUTER WHILE IT IS FLASHING! If there is an error during the flash and you see ANYTHING other than 'Flash Successful!' Keep retrying to flash, DO NOT REBOOT YOUR COMPUTER, IF YOU CANNOT GET IT TO FLASH THE MODIFIED IMAGE ALWAYS FLASH THE STOCK IMAGE BEFORE REBOOTING! After this you're done! once it says 'Flash Successful!' you can go into device manager and re-enable your GPU and reboot your machine. After that your GPU should be running at the clock speed you set. If you have any questions, suggestions, or see something I did wrong post a comment!

I'm currently using a 60 hz "monitor" that's really just a tv. Is it safe to overclock it to above 60? What are the downsides of overclocking?

Hi LTT Form. I came and seek the wisdom of this community again. I recently just built a home server out of curiosity and wanted to experiment with different tech. Here are my hardware specs: CPU: AMD 8700G GPU: Gigabyte RTX 4060 Ti (The only one I found that can fit in the case, also powerful enough for my use case) Motherboard: msi mpg b650i edge wifi Memory: G.Skilll Flare X5 Series DDR5 32GB *2 PSU: Cooler Master V850 SFX Gold Bootdrive: Samsung 980 Pro 1TB Hard Drive: Seagate IronWolf Pro 12 TB Case: JONSBO N3 The software I am running/ planning to run: Proxmox as the hypervisor OS TrueNAS (Thinking about switching to Unraid) Ubuntu 22.04 Server Windows 11 pro. Here are my use cases: Truenas (or Unraid) for storage. I am running RAIDZ2 right now and don't like the expandability TrueNAS offers. Ubuntu to run pihole, vpn service, website hosting, and probably some others. Windows 11 Pro (passthrough GPU to this) runs Plex and games to stream to my Steam deck via a Steam link or directly display on TV. Here are the problems I am currently facing: TrueNAS cannot perform SMART scans because some instructions are missing. TrueNAS gives about 20 checksum errors on all drives each day. Here are my thoughts on what may cause errors: I am not running ECC memory. I've read many posts saying the importance of ECC to ZFS, but there are also a lot of posts saying it's not an issue. I turned AMD expo on, and the overclock is causing the error bits. I want to fix these issues as well as maybe switch to Unraid as it offers to expand my storage drive by drive without TrueNAS's pool and dataset complications. Any idea if ECC is actually necessary? I don't mind redoing my build, but I want to avoid it if AMD Expo is the primary issue. I also suspect it's because I am booting using bios instead of UEFI. Will that be an issue?

Hello! For any users of the AOC 22B1HS, have you guys tried overclocking this 60hz monitor to 75hz? Has any issues popped up? To scared to overclock my monitor to see for myself since I just bought it, and it took me a really long time to save up for it lol. Thanks in advance!

I am somehow running a 3770k at 6.3ghz overclock. I without water cooling. With the MSI Z77A-GD55. With a Pad no paste. Single fan Deep cool 1 CPU fan. I been trying to find out why this is possible. I Have no issues with it at all. 500w system. CPU-Z does not get the see it. But the bios and Window 11 and 10 Task Manager see it. I am actually Having problem. With most program showing it. i DONT KNOW WHAT TO SAY BUT I WANTED TO DOCUMENT THIS.

Hi, I'm new to overclocking and wanted to ask why enabling the XMP profile on my RAM cause my games to crash? I have an MSI B450 Gaming Plus Max and T-Force Delta RGB 8x2 GB 3600 mHz. I've already updated my BIOS before installing my operating system and downloaded the latest drivers for my motherboard (from the MSI support website). Some other things worth noting: I use an HDD as my only drive because I have yet to purchase an NVME SSD, I have a Ryzen 5 2600X and an RX 580. Both my CPU and GPU are running on their base speed. I've only tried boosting my RAM. My friend advised me to try running my RAM on its base speed (2400 mHz) and see what happens. And surely, my games run just fine. I'm just curious if there is a way to utilize the maximum performance of my RAM without having issues.

Hi, Specs: 12700K Gigabyte Z690 Aorus Pro ASUS RTX ROG Strix OC 4090 Seasonic Vertex GX1200 BIOS F28 Windows 11 23H2 UPDATE: So I got the new RAM kit in and it was the same kit. They're running at the XMP profile and my CPU is overclocked. Everything is stable and running smoothly for a few days now. In case anyone else is using this combo, it worked for me. PCPartPicker and Micro Center say that the memory I am about to purchase (again, I'll explain) is compatible with my CPU/mobo combo (G.SKILL Trident Z5 RGB Series (Intel XMP 3.0) DDR5 RAM 64GB (2x32GB) 6400MT/s CL32-39-39-102 1.40V (F5-6400J3239G32GX2-TZ5RK)). The first time I purchased this RAM kit, XMP was enabled automatically, and everything was running well except for some crashes (COD and Unity). I ran DDU in safe mode and removed my GPU driver and reinstalled it. I then overclocked my CPU (previously tested and stable OC) and started getting BSODs. It corrupted my OS. I then tested the RAM with Memtest86+, and the memory failed, so I sent it back. My motherboard has been tested up to 6200MT/s, but none are with 64GB, only 32GB. G.Skill tested 64GB kits but only up to 5600MT/s. I have read that this should be good to go, but OC is never a sure thing. I have a 6-layer PCB, which isn't ideal for this kit but it should be good enough. The power phases (16+1+2) should be good enough as well (correct me if I'm wrong). Could anyone give some advice as to why 64GB (2x32GB) running at 6400MT/s with CL32 is tough on my motherboard? Also, has anyone had any success at doing this with a similar build? Would overclocking the CPU make it harder on my system which could cause the BSODs? I am going to leave my CPU at stock OC next time around (not a good risk-reward). Could those DIMMs I sent back actually be good, but my motherboard caused or contributed to the failing memory test? I have attached the system information and the failed test results taken by Memtest86+. Thanks!

I have a 5600g and I wanted to squeeze a little more power out of it and I have ample cooling and power from my NH-D15 and my old 1200 watt power supply so I was wondering what are safe settings to get some more power out of it like what should I put in for the PBO limits I saw some people doing a little over 100w on ppt limit but no one had anything with numbers for SOC TDC and SOC EDC so I’m a little confused idk if the photo will help but any advice or numbers I can just put in so Ik I won’t damage anything or cause my pc to crash but still get me a bit more performance and power usage would be much appreciated. I added from what I’ve seen online a picture of what I’m guessing will work but any critique or suggestions would be appreciated.

[Context: skip if you don't care] Back in 2015 I built my first PC, at the time intended mostly for amateur music production (Cubase), rocking an i7-4790 in an Asus Z97-A motherboard, as I had no interest in overclocking but the Z97 board had good features and I/O for the price. I recently upgraded from a heavily overclocked Asus GT 1030 (story for another time... if anybody is interested) to an Nvidia T600 (basically a cut-down 40 W version of the GTX 1650). I had been feeling the CPU's age for a while now, but lifting that very hard GPU bottleneck made me really want to squeeze a bit more performance. I've been running the 4790 for as long as I can remember with 103 BCLK with a 0,025 V offset, as suggested by the "Optimization" tool in AI Suite 3. This has been perfectly stable for 6 years with stock cooling, and I recently upgraded to a Noctua NH-U12A (silent operation is pretty important when recording stuff). So after some days of reading about BCLK overclocking, I decided to see how far it would go: "Look, mom, I'm topping the charts for i7-4790 performance! You must be so proud of me!" I tested up to 107 BCLK with no change in voltage, and according to 3DMark CPU Profile (perhaps not a "real" benchmark, but certainly an indication) I saw pretty sizeable gains with still very reasonable temps. At 107.5 my computer froze up shortly after boot when trying to start a bunch of applications, so I got somewhat scared and left it there for the moment. I've been running at 105 (4.2 GHz) with perfect stability, so... I kinda upgraded to a 4790K for free . I want to keep trying to get higher OCs, but I got a bit scared from all the horror stories about broken SDDs and fried boot sectors... So, here come some newbie questions: I've read people talk of how dangerous BCLK OC is, how it can corrupt/brick your drives and thus you should stick to multiplier OC. But of course, that's not an option for me, it's either BCLK or nothing (boring!). My question is: does anybody have any evidence of BCLK overclock actually breaking things, without applying excessive voltages or heat? In all things OC it's sometimes hard to tell what's concern from fabricated scaremongering... I know Haswell BCLK will overclock also the PCIe lanes and that can make devices stop appearing or refuse to boot, but that's easily fixed by pulling back the OC: my concern is actual permanent damage to hardware or data. Would it be reasonable to, if 107.5 BCLK is indeed unstable, ramp up the voltage offset by 0.0125 V? (e.g. see if it's stable at +0.037) I haven't touched DRAM frequency yet (I know lowering it would improve the chances for a stable OC) or cache ratio or anything else, so any suggestions are welcome! That's all... If I see interest from y'all, I'll keep you updated!

Hey everybody, i have just built my first pc and it would randomly freeze when playing games. So i tried stress testing it in Prime95 and Intel Extreme Tuning Utility. It freezes usually about 1-5 min into the test. All the lights in my pc are still on and fans are spinning when it freezes but i cannot do anything. I have not done any overclocking btw only xmp in bios turned on. My Specs: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/WqwTFs CPU: Intel Core i9-14900K 3.2 GHz 24-Core Processor CPU Cooler: Lian Li Galahad II Trinity Performance 108.29 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler Motherboard: Gigabyte Z790 AORUS ELITE X WIFI7 ATX LGA1700 Motherboard Memory: G.Skill Trident Z5 RGB 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-7200 CL34 Memory Storage: Western Digital Black SN850X 1 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive GPU: Gigabyte GAMING OC GeForce RTX 4060 Ti 8 GB Video Card PSU: MSI A1000G PCIE5 1000 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply CPU temp at time of freeze: 75-85 C Idle Temps are 35-45 C

Hello everyone, I would like to ask for help with overclocking my new PC. I've dabbled in OC but don't know too much just trying to feel the difference between my old parts to new parts. OLD PC Parts- MSI B550M pro vdh wifi, ryzen 5 3600, 2070 Super XC Ultra 8GB NEW PC Parts- MSI Pro B650-p wifi, Ryzen 7 7800X3D, 2070 Super XC Ultra 8GB. Any help is accepted, thank you

I recently upgraded my PC and I'm not noticing much of a difference is there anyone who can give advice on OC & or Advice on what to do in bios? SPECS listed below OLD Specs: MSI b550 m pro vdh wifi, EVGA 2070 super xc OC, ryzen 5 3600 NEW Specs: MSI PRO B650-P WIFI, EVGA 2070 super xc OC, Ryzen 7 7800 X3D, ALSO NEW Deepcool ak620 high performance.

Hello everyone I want to overclock my system, but I'm completely new to this. I would be very grateful if you could help me My system: CPU - i7 4960x Motherboard - Asus Rampage IV Extreme RAM - DDR3 HyperX Beast 2400MHz 4x8Gb (HX324C11T3K4/32) GPU - MSI RTX 2060 Super Armor OC Cooler - DeepCool AK620 I looked at a couple of forum topics with my hardware on the Internet (there are not many of them) and applied the following parameters: BCLK - 100 CPU - 44 Vcore - 1.24 VCCSA - 1.15 CPU PLL Voltage - 1.80 CPU Spread Spectrum - Disabled PCI Spread Spectrum - Disabled CPU C States- Disabled Enhanced Intel SpeedStem Technology - Disabled Intel Adaptive Thermal Monitor - Disabled Execute Disable Bit - Disabled Intel Virtualization Technology - Disabled DRAM Frequency - 2400MHz DRAM Timings - 11-13-13-32-2 DRAM Voltage - 1.65 GPU Power Limit - 105% GPU Core Clock - +100Mhz GPU Memory Clock - +750Mhz The system works stable and i felt an improve from the stock settings, but in some games there are freezes when changing scenes or lines of dialogue. For example Batman from TellTale Games, The Invincible. Fortnite lagging even on minimal settings (idk why). I want to overclock my system even more, especially RAM, because a cant figure out how to run it stable with increased frequency or decreased timings

The image below shows the current results I seem to achieve with somewhat decent cooling, -20 offset on the "Curve Optimizer" and "Boost Clock Override" of +200Mhz. I have quite a bit of thermal headroom and what I'm looking for is how I would adjust per-core CO and per-core Boost Clock Override to push the core further. Would I push the good cores even more or should I do the opposite and push the other ones? That's where I'm currently at, especially because I don't know how the different CCDs should be handled optimally.

Hello all, I have an Asus x99 WS/IPMI(supports overclocking) motherboard running a E5-1650v3(unlocked) CPU, but I am not able to overclock the CPU in BIOS through AI Tweaker using "CPU Core Ratio", the CPU Core ratio is set to auto and the option is grayed out, I can't change it even though the CPU has unlocked multiplier, the motherboard is considering it locked. The hardware is capable of overclocking but maybe Asus locked it in the BIOS for E5-16xxV3 CPUs? or Am I not doing it proper? Does anyone have the same motherboard with a E5-16xxV3 CPU and managed to overclock it using CPU core multiplier ratio? Any help will be appreciated.

GPU: RX 6650 XT OS: Windows 11 Pro Did no modifications to the GPU itself (hardware and software) so its in pretty stock settings heres a video where i overclocked the fan mid gameplay on Youtube: Ingame (on top of the screen) graphs from the AMD software while setting the max fan speed to 90% (yes its gameplay but thats there). And after i set the overclock it just was louder then all of my 2009-2015 HDDs durring peak usage. If the GPU is so limited, should i do it even when its so loud or should i just set something less "that high"?

Hey guys, I was looking at my task manager and I noticed that my Speed was a lot higher than my Base Speed. I once over clocked my CPU but I have downclocked it back to its original speed. I'm concerned if I messed up along the way or something as this high speed is not needed, especially when literally nothing is running on my PC. Any help with my gladly appreciated.

Hello everyone! My computer was damaged from an old roommate, but I have saved certain items. As of now, it's up and running, and here are the specs: Asus Tuf b450 gaming plus ii, Ryzen 5 3600 with a 220w tower cooler, 2x8gb XPG 3200 mhz, ASRock Radeon RX 6600 8gb, MSI A750GL, and WD 1TB SSD. I'm looking to improve overall speed, and improving FPS wouldn't hurt too. I was considering upgrading to a Ryzen 7 5700X, but unsure if I should upgrade to 32gb of RAM? I know 3200mhz is what is supported, but this is my first build, and I'm really not quite sure what the right move is. I'm also unaware of how to properly set up my BIOS to maximize efficiency without burning out my system (I have no idea how overclocking works lol). Any help would be appreciated! Thanks!

Doing some searching on forums looking into if it will be possible to overclock RAM on a laptop I have on the way that without a doubt does not support timing changes in the BIOS (The AMD version can be made to allow it, but Im going with blue team for other reasons). I have a set of DDR5 Kingston in the mail that will *hopefully* run 5600mts at CL40. So far Ive only found two possibilities to use, one being Thaiphoon Burner, which I see a lot of (rather old) posts saying not to use it for DDR5; and the second is Cam NZXT, which has a lot of posts saying not to use it at all. Im going to keep digging around and will have a test dummy RAM kit (what comes with the laptop) to play around with a little bit. Wanted to make a post here just incase anyone here has other insight to point me in the right direction here though too. I am painfully aware laptops are not ideal for overclocking, Im just having fun here. Not to mention, Overclocking the RAM on my current laptop got me 1k CPU and GPU in TimeSpy and the 3080m/11800h WR because my CPU was a bottleneck, so I have some affection for RAM overclocking now.

hey guys! i have been rocking this beast for about a year now and i want to start overclocking it. the only issue is that it runs almost always at 95C! im using a NZXT Kraken Z Series Z73 360mm, and i cant seem to keep temps under control. as much as i love the led screen on the pump, i would rather have performance. is there a better cooler on the market? i dont feel comfortable with custom water cooling but i might have to give it a try. and help or advice would be awesome. thanks!

Hi, I have i7 9700 non k, BCLK @102.7, 8 cores running @4.52ghz to 4.62ghz depending on the game. i noticed that the CPU is pulling 1.35v upto 1.41v and 115 watts on intensive CPU gaming, LLC is set to 7 (max) other related voltage settings on Asus ai suite is on maximum as well. is this voltage ok? also temps are at 70s, rarely reaching 80c, is this normal too? its on AIO. my board is asus prime z390m thanks

I’m having trouble with my pc not booting while trying to use the docp profile in my bios. I’m very new to this but I can’t seem to tweak anything past 2133mhz without getting the “booted in safe mode” screen. I am using an Asus tufgaming x570 motherboard as well. Does anyone know any ways to fix this or what could be causing this error? I’ve left my current settings in multiple pictures below as reference.