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Hi, I'm looking for an SFF prebuilt that can deliver 75W through one PCIe x16 slot and 50W through another PCIe x16 slot, connected as x8 or x4. Does anyone know of a model off the top of their head? Optiplex 990 and 790 in SFF won't work. (see: attachment) Otherwise, I can't think of any other models with 2x PCIe x16 slots (it's okay if one is only connected via x4 or x8). The unit, without a GPU, shouldn't cost more than ~75€ used. My goal: CPU: 4C 8T min. turbo frequency: 3,8ghz RAM: 16GB GPU: 1x Nvidia Tesla M4 (50W via pcie) 1x Nvidia Tesla P4 (75W via pcie) form factor: as small as possible price: under 180€ What i was calculating with: M4 ~ 60€ P4 ~ 80€ pre build ~ 40€ Thanks in advance, Lenn

Got this pc for free, may i know if I am able to fit a standard atx/matx case in this. The cpu is Pentium 4

Hey there yeah i upgraded my rig from R5 1600 to R5 5600X Zotac GTX1070 Amp Extreme to Zotac RTX 3060 Ti Twin Edge (no OC, no LHR, no GDDR6X) GS800 to RM650i Alpenföhn Cooler to Scythe Mugen 4(or 5 idk) Cooler new 4tb hdd i got for 28 bucks from the bargain bin at the local tech retailer some enermax case to bequiet Pure Base 600 expect for the 4tb hdd everything is used but working perfectly as the time of testing and writing this on ths rig A few tips tho: Dont buy a Scythe Mugen for AMD Processors, i didnt get the backplate but the dude selling it to me never had it either and modded it too bc as it seems Scythe is unable to produce a working AM4 backplate I basically cut 4 Strips of metal to lengt and put them between the cooler contact plate and the main bar keeping the cooler attached to the Mobo to get some tension on it, left the normal AM4 Backplate and the plastic "standoffs" on the mobo and screwed the two struts attaching to the main bar on top of them. Works Bigger project, and the reason why i want to post this in troubleshooting, was the gpu... It worked, i got to test it when i bougt it, so no complaints there. The guy also had a founders ed 3060 ti for the same price there, in retrospect idk why i dint took that one. Maybe a bit of bias bc my previous card served my quite well but after running some games at home in the old build i had the gpu reach is locked max temp of 85 degrees celsius and the hotspot got up to 105. Sooo..fan mod time! never done it before but wth Tries to detach the "icestorm2.0" cooler - fan cables are jammed between pcb and cooling block(!) so there i was yesterday with a completely dirty gpu pcb and no thermal pads and fans I bought a 3pack of Artics 2000RPM Argb fans, some DriftIce 13W/mK Thermal pads and new thermal paste and started my first gpu "refresh" It went suprisingly well The card was really dirty and i was extremly careful so it took me a while to remove the complety dried previos thermal paste, cut the thermal pads to size and so on Another tip: if you are redoing the thermal pads on this Gpu, the thermalm pads should be over 1.5 mm thick to properly attach to the cooling block. I had to cut my 1.5mm pads in two thickness-wise and put a second layer of (ideally 0,75mm) on top a bit too big i know but all in all i got a drop of around 20 degrees on the hotspot and 10 degrees on the gpu in short time loads and with a prolonged load it goes down to 10 degs C improvment on the hotspot and 5 on the processor. Im running the new Gpu fans over the manual fan control switch(3V,9V and 12V stepping) of the Pure Base 600 I think thats quite good, right? I.e. first question: Should i try to contain the airflow around the card more to maybe get some more cooling performance from the oversize fans? The bigger question also connecting to my previous posts: I couldnt get a vbios update for my card to work until now... the teardown gave me the ability to ckeck for obvious damage; GPU-Z shows nothing unusual about the card apart from the current vbios being from january 2021; The Zotac support told me that "The card is Zotac (OEM) made for a customer. Zotac does not provide the support and maintenance service" (that means its from either chinese wholesale market or prebuilt system from walmart as example?); Knowing all that: The thing i need to to to enable rebar is to find a bios of the same card ( SKU: ZT-A30610E-10M ) with a rebar enabled/updated vbios and flash that rom on my card via nvflash, right?? That would be so great.. Anyway Hope you all are doing well

I've found that oem BIOS-es tend to be much more slim and light in options compared to ones that you would put in a custom Pc. This is normally in place to keep unknowing hands from messing up critical stuff, most often clock multipliers, voltages, etc. as messing up these settings can easily fry your system, thus only the most essential and least destructive settings are left, like a drive password, system date settings, and such. But sometimes you just want more control MAKE SURE YOU KNOW WHATEVER YOU'RE DOING! IF YOU CHANGE SETTING TO INCORRECT VALUES YOU COULD DAMAGE YOUR COMPUTER IN UNREPAIRABLE WAYS! If you are not sure what some settings do please look it up on the internet or ask someone more knowing of the topic before making changes. Changing setting will likely not solve your problems, nut break it (more). Please don't blame me if anything wrong happens, I warned you about the dangers of fooling around! This is where unlocking bios options come into play. Sometimes it is quite is and sometimes not. So I've decided to make this topic to help some people get on their ways, and to ask for some help myself. If I have made some mistakes writing this topic, please correct me in the comments, and I will edit the text accordingly. I don't wanna spread misinformation... Easier: secret menus - sometimes manufacturers don't actually disable these options in the BIOS ROM, since it would complicate life for support or repair services. These are usually unlocked by pressing a secret key combination entering or while inside the bios. Different OEMs/manufacturers and BIOS vendors tend to have different combinations, here are the most common ones I've found: Pressing "A" while entering BIOS setting - after pressing your key to enter the BIOS setting (usually F1,F2,F8,F10,F12 or DELETE) immediately press A once. Look around your menus and see if something is unlocked. If you have a laptop with an "Fn" function key toggle try pressing Fn+Tab three times. Check for menus again. I read that it is possible you need to re-enter your BIOS settings before unlocking the menu, so you could also try to enter your setting once, pressing the combination three times, and then re-enter the BIOS settings Other common combinations, usually pressed while under POST to enter the BIOS: Shift+F1/F2/etc. ; Ctrl+Shift+F1/... ; Ctrl+Alt+F1/...; In laptops you could also try Fn+F1/.. or Ctrl+Fn+F1/... I will update the list with OEM/manufacturer specific combinations if they are suggested in the comments. Harder: disabled menus - BIOS Flash - power outage during or flashing compromised/broken BIOS ROMs can lead to your Pc bricked or even worse! Make sure to not flash during thunderstorms, and plug in the power adapter of your laptop / use a UPS for your desktop if you have one. Also make sure that the ROM you're trying to flash is compatible with your motherboard. Having a compromised BIOS can lead to your data stolen or erased, and your PC doing weird things! Flashing non-approved ROMs can also lead to your warranty being voided! Having secret menus is nice but it means that said advanced settings are still accessible to anyone knowing the combination, and that includes non-OEM people. However developers and engineers usually use those settings, to test things out and such, so the most common method is to simply disable the menus in the ROM by flipping a bit or getting customers a non-developer BIOS. Methods usually revolve around saving your current ROM and modifying it or getting a developer-ROM. The difficulty of flashing the BIOS can be very different system to system: Entering BIOS and using the BIOS flash utility Using an application to flash your BIOS while in Windows Getting into safe mode and applying some special settings, then using the application Taking your PC apart and flashing your BIOS chip directly with an SPI flasher device Keep in mind that most manufacturers/OEMs don't allow the flashing of non-signed ROMs directly so it is much more complicated to actually change the BIOS in these cases. I hope this helps some of you. If you have anything to say regarding this topic please feel free to reply.

Hiya, so I have this old prebuilt PC from acer that I use on occasion. It's a bit of a chop shop pc now and I wanted to put in a hard drive I no longer need in my current pc, only problem is supplying power to the hard drive seems to be a bit trickier than I planned (I'm no pc expert so bear with me). The pc still runs off of the original non-modular psu unit form seasonic and only has a 6 pin power connector unused. When looking at the oem motherboard I found 2 sockets lableled HDDPWR that are a straight line of 6 pins but I have no idea what type of cable would connect here and cant seem to find much online (I'll include a picture of the sockets). I am fairly certain it originally had a hard drive but I can't seem to find the original cable so trying to find the easiest way to power the hard drive. So my question I guess is if anyone has a solution or knows what kind of cable this is/where i would find this cable or if it's possible to convert the 6 pin to a sata connector (not sure whether female 6 pin to sata exists/can't find anything). Don't really want to buy a new psu seeing as I don't use the pc all that much and it would require changing other problems with the oem mobo. Thanks to anyone that can help!

Hi I have a question I have a HP EliteDesk 800 g1 small formfactor and I Want to upgrade my case so I can upgrade to a bigger power supply and GPU , Etc. but idk if the motherboard will fit a mid tower case idk what the size of the motherboard is here's the motherboard thanks P.S I accidently put it in Programs, Apps and Websites IDK how to change it.

Hello all, I was on bilibili today and I noticed some strange videos in my recommended. Multiple users are uploading video with the "GT 1010" at first I was skeptical but after seeing multiple videos of gameplay on the card. Doing a little more digging and contacting the creator of one of these videos I found out this, supposedly people have been managing to get access to OEM GT 1010 directly from the factory in tech markets (like the ones in strange parts videos) While not many people have these cards (because few are being made since the card has not been released yet) some do exist. I am still not sure if this is real or not but I would like to here what you think. Have a great day/night, SpaceBurn. PS: My favorite thing about this is if you search up "GT 1010" on bilibili the first video is a ripped techlinked episode about it. Video for reference: https://www.bilibili.com/video/BV1Jr4y1M7Ae?from=search&seid=10958822646081953726&spm_id_from=333.337.0.0

so i have a erica3 and im running a AMD Ryzen 5 4600G with Radeon Graphics 3.70 GHz i dont know if i can get my hands on a AMD Ryzen 7 4700G because on hp,s website it says that thats the only upgrade i can get

AMD has had APUs for a long time, and in the middle of a GPU shortage, they’re more relevant than ever. So why are the best APUs they’ve ever made not for sale? Buy AMD Ryzen 7 Pro 4750G CPU (PAID LINK): https://geni.us/CxxvS Purchases made through some store links may provide some compensation to Linus Media Group.

Hi there, I'm curious did someone upgraded their laptop with Dell OEM RAM stick, I have Acer Aspire 3 A315-51 with Intel i3 6006U, 4gb of RAM @ 2133MHz. I need RAM upgrade soon, so I wanted to see if it is ok to buy Dell OEM stick of 8gb @ 2666MHz, due to shortage that stick is right now cheapest in Serbia so I would rather buy cheaper stick than buying 20-25% pricier Kingston stick. I'm just afraid if there is any downside of buying OEM parts? Thank in advance for your time and help!

Hello Picked up a cheap GPU for my gf to play Dishonored, the Sims, GTA; found an r9 270, a reference model. It is one from an hp machine (Hp pn 741521 - 001) that does the job just fine for her. Only problem is that the fans seemingly don't work correctly, MSI afterburner will tell me that they are running at whatever percent speed, but they will only actually spin up at 80 fan speed and will run as normal between 80 and a hundred percent speed. Further still, in the AMD software, the usual fan tuning options are missing. Personally, I own an r9 270x, which when swapped in, the fan tuning options are present. I have heard that in some cases these OEM cards can have limitations on fan control like this, was just wondering if there's any way around this. Having to run at nothing or 80% isn't that big deal, I only spent £15 on the card, it's just a little annoying. Any help appreciated.

https://www.amd.com/en/products/cpu/amd-ryzen-5-2500x so the cpu in my pc supports 2933hz ram but i cannot find anywhere that shows the mobo can, is there a way i can know cause i don't want to buy the ram and realise that it will not run at 2933hz speed, cpu id and HWiNFO do not show it

Hello! I recently purchased a Dell OEM system with a 3060ti. Would it be safe to assume the OEM 3060ti will work fine in another system? Or with another PSU? thanks!

okay so before everyone starts saying gtx 1650 is bad for value i have an oem build which the psu has no 6pin connectors so the best card with 75w of power was the gtx 1650 single fan. its been working fine but maybe the i7 3rd gen is too strong for it since like it sits on 20-30% while the card is like at 100 and i know thats not necessarily too bad since the other way around is worse but like maybe the game is not that processor demanding or is it that the chip is stronger or sth pls help

Hey everyone, my first post here so be gentle.. I have a few laptops and desktops dating back to 2012, newest being 2020. The newest Dell is receiving pretty regular BIOS updates to address CVE’s - but the older ones are at their latest version, out of support. My question is, how safe is it to continue using my old laptops? Same probably applies to any PC out of support… cheers!

According to a report, Microsoft plans to make PC makers ship solid-state boot drives in all Windows PCs starting in 2023 or 2024, putting an end to the days of spinning hard drives for most of the PCs that still include them. Quotes My main concern is that OEMs will seek the cheapest bottom of the barrel SSD options, that might reflect negatively on reliability of their systems. Sources https://www.tomshardware.com/news/microsofts-reportedly-trying-to-kill-hdd-boot-drives-for-windows-11-pcs-by-2023

Hi everyone, my tg01 0023w has the R5 3500 and HP OEM Erica2 motherboard, which is only compatible with Ryzen 3xxx I have a 5600g with Erica6 motherboard for a small upgrade and I'm wondering if I can just swap the motherboards then reinstall all my components without having to wipe the OS. Should I install any drivers before swapping? Any other advice would be really appreciated. Thanks!

I have been scowereing the internet for a place to buy some cheap PC's in my state ($50 and under) but all of the listings are 100-200 dollars. If you guys have any websites ideas or overall anything that is cheap I would be happy to look through them

Hello all, I am looking for some advice/suggestions for a recent prebuilt I picked up. I saw this beauty on the used market and managed to snag it for $150 : https://www.bestbuy.com/site/lenovo-ideacentre-720-18asu-desktop-amd-ryzen-5-series-8gb-memory-1tb-hard-drive-silver/5887606.p?skuId=5887606 Specs: Ryzen 5 1400 1tb WD Blue HDD Radeon R5 340 2gb GPU 8gb (2x4gb) 2400mhz RAM 250w Lenovo Proprietary PSU Everything works perfectly Here's the deal: I'm unsure if I should upgrade it to sell for a potential larger profit, sell as is for some profit, or turn it into some type of home server thingy Potential upgrade I had in mind: Add a small SSD boot drive Swap gpu for a GTX 1650 swap ram for 16gb (2x8gb) kit Questions for this potential upgrade route: The lenovo case doesn't have much ventilation so I am worried that thermals may be an issue. It has one exhaust fan in the back and large side vent. Would thermals be an issue even though the 1650 is such a low power card? It would most likely be a single fan card for dimension reasons. I estimate that these upgrades would bring the total project cost to about $370-$400 usd. How much do you think I'd be able to sell it for? Another issue is the GPU's psu requirement. The upgraded specs according to pcpartpicker would draw close to 180w of total power, definately under 250w. I am worried because the 1650 has a minimum of a 300w psu need. I would get a new psu but because it doesnt use standard connectors (thanks lenovo) this would't be impossible with the oem motherboard. Would this be ok? Or is there an adapter I can buy?

X-post in both Mobo and PSU sections of the forum. I recently procured an HP ENVY 700-327c (this guy!) for use as a HTPC from an old friend selling for next to nothing. I plan to add a GTX 1080 and use it as a HTPC and portable LAN machine, will likely transplant into a more modern case as well. It will definitely require a PSU upgrade, as the stock PSU is only 300W according to their documentation. I was recently watching a new LTT video covering a similar idea of updating an older pre-built for modern games, and at around the 9:44 mark of the video he explains that he is leery of upgrading PSUs in machines like these sometimes because "even some proprietary motherboards that *look* standard might have different pinouts or specialty connectors, for example, that make them a hassle to deal with." This machine uses the Memphis-B HP motherboard. HP's spec sheet for the PC shows the PSU form factor as "Internal ATX" and the motherboard form factor as being standard Micro-ATX. Before I proceed, how can I make dead certain that the OEM mobo from HP will be compatible with a standard off-the-shelf ATX power supply? Linus mentioning different pinouts scares me, I know those can be a nightmare when people try and mix cables from modular PSUs and fry stuff. Is the listing by the manufacturer of the standard form-factors enough to go by, or should I be looking for something more specific? How would I even know if I got it wrong and the board isn't compatible, would it just not work at all? The answer to my question will require someone with pretty serious knowledge of PSUs so I apologize in advance for that, but I figured if there ever was a forum for it this would be the one! Thanks *so much* for any insight you are able to provide for me here, it means the world.

X-post in both Mobo and PSU sections of the forum. I recently procured an HP ENVY 700-327c (this guy!) for use as a HTPC from an old friend selling for next to nothing. I plan to add a GTX 1080 and use it as a HTPC and portable LAN machine, will likely transplant into a more modern case as well. It will definitely require a PSU upgrade, as the stock PSU is only 300W according to their documentation. I was recently watching a new LTT video covering a similar idea of updating an older pre-built for modern games, and at around the 9:44 mark of the video he explains that he is leery of upgrading PSUs in machines like these sometimes because "even some proprietary motherboards that *look* standard might have different pinouts or specialty connectors, for example, that make them a hassle to deal with." This machine uses the Memphis-B HP motherboard. HP's spec sheet for the PC shows the PSU form factor as "Internal ATX" and the motherboard form factor as being standard Micro-ATX. Before I proceed, how can I make dead certain that the OEM mobo from HP will be compatible with a standard off-the-shelf ATX power supply? Linus mentioning different pinouts scares me, I know those can be a nightmare when people try and mix cables from modular PSUs and fry stuff. Is the listing by the manufacturer of the standard form-factors enough to go by, or should I be looking for something more specific? How would I even know if I got it wrong and the board isn't compatible, would it just not work at all? The answer to my question will require someone with pretty serious knowledge of PSUs so I apologize in advance for that, but I figured if there ever was a forum for it this would be the one! Thanks *so much* for any insight you are able to provide for me here, it means the world.

Hi I know probably most of you heard this question a lot of time, just bear with me for a second so happens that I run a command prmpt with "Slmgr –dli", it says my Windows 10 is a Retail version so below is a questions:- 1. Does this means i can install into a new Motherboard setup without any needs to purchase a new windows key? (did some research before I post, it seems that the requirement is so long that no two PC detected using the same retail keys, it shall be fine) 2. Now that I recall, because my PC is a bit age-d (6yrs old), I was purchasing a genuine Windows 7 Ultimate (retail), about 6 years ago, been thru the promotions where Microsoft offers free upgrade to Windows 8 and now it is Windows 10. Want to ask if the answer to my Question No. 1 is "yes" then I install a new windows on a new setup @ Windows 10 boot from a pendrive form the first run? 3. Again if "Yes" to the Question No. 1 is there any (numbers, like 1 time, 2 times, 3 times.... etc) limit of installing the product key into new motherboards? Well a serious upgrade always happens every 7~8 years times, just want to be sure if I am able to save the money XD

Hey. I'm looking to buy a new keyboard but i don't remember what keycaps profile my trusty old 6GV2 had. And since it broke i don't have it to check on that. And i couldn't find any info on keycaps in the WEB.

Hey guys, I've been trying to upgrade my gf's PC so that she and I can play some games together. The problem is, her PC doesn't seem to be cooperating. I'm trying to introduce a Zotac GTX 1060 3Gb mini into a prebuilt HP model 550-150qe. I have a 430W powering the system, however after installing the appropriate drivers normal operation is plagued with stuttering issues. Tried Overwatch, wouldn't even open... Help me

On my pc I have Windows 10 activated with an oem key but I had read that when changing pc parts, especially the motherboard, there could be potential problems. Is it possible to upgrade the key to a retail version? Has anyone had luck with contacting Microsoft about this issue?