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Found 1,059 results

  1. Hello, I just purchased and installed a NZXT Kraken X52 in my PC and it is currently cooling my 4790k CPU. When I did a Small FFT Stress Test using Prime95, temperatures rose to around 95 degrees celsius with the fans audibly spinning at maximum speed. I'm planning on putting the cooler in a push/pull configuration as I currently only have it in a push configuration. Should I be worried about the coolers performance; using NZXT's CAM software I currently have both the pump and the fans in Performance Mode and have the temperature control set to CPU for both. I have double checked and have confirmed that everything is mounted and secured properly, is it possible these results are because the cooler is very new and has yet to be "broken in"? Should I be prepared to get a refund for the cooler? Any thoughts on causes or solutions to the problem would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
  2. Some WHYsss? Q. Why put the CF vinyl and then removed it? A. When we started the case mod 4-5 months back the case looked a lil too white from inside to use so before assembling it we added a lil more black color to the case. Later when it was all assembled we found that the mobo, rad and pump parts being black and the background being black the case got a lil too dark. So that’s why we removed it in this rebuild. Q. What is remaining? A. The case front will be modded. Two slim fans at front will be added. The loop might change a bit too. A 90 degree USB 3.0 connector. New drive bay plate and might be some more tweaking done. And off course GPU and RAMs will b added if I got em in time Update 1 7/15/2017 Update 2 7/20/2017 Once I have completed the BUILD I will update here.
  3. Hi experts, So I recently upgraded my pc and installed the kraken x52 AIO cooler and I was wondering if you can give me some insight on what settings I should use to get the most out of it - Temps & longevity being the key factors as the air conditioning unit in my room is literally right next to my desk so noise isn't a factor at all. Currently I have it at the default Silent Mode in CAM where the fan speed and the pump speed get determined by the liquid temperature, but as I've tested out over the past few days of having this rig the liquid temperature never even reaches 40 degrees, the cpu highest cpu temp i've gotten while gaming is 46 degrees, and the highest gpu temp i've gotten while gaming is 57 degrees. My question would be, should I keep it as it is? I'm thinking of setting CAM to silent mode depending on the CPU temp instead as that's what the cooler is actually for. Apologies as well for multiple questions over the past few days, I'm really new to hardware stuff mostly dealt with software over the course of my life. Thanks! Kyle
  4. Hey, so for a while now I've noticed the LEDs on my NZXT H440 are a bit temperamental. In total there are 3 LEDs for the case, there's the IO one on the back, the power one and the Logo LED. The power button one has always worked but the IO and NZXT logo LEDs don't always work. There's a button on the back to toggle them on/off but that's not the problem. The LEDs will work spontaneously. For the last few months they seemed to be working alright but yesterday the NZXT logo was on, but a but dim so I pulled a Fonzie and bashed the top of the case and that make the light more intense. Today again, however, the LEDs are off. I've checked the connections multiple times and nothing wrong there . This is a problem I've been having pretty much since I got the case 3 or so years ago. Could it possibly be something to do with other components I have in my system? I really dunno, Anyway, thanks
  5. Hello guys, just want to know what you think of my new build, honest answer I build a PC for 1080p gaming and university work. So for CPU I have got a Ryxen 1500x, I have tought about getting a 1600 or 1600X, but I wont do any video editing or anything that need more than 4 cores. The 1600 is not much expansive than the 1500x, but the 1500x have higher clock speed (what is better for gaming). For GPU, I' have bought a MSI 580 gaming x. I had a hard time to find it because of the minig craze and I had to spent a few extra bucks, but I found it! I bought it because I'll play some 1080p games and Esports games, and I think that a 580 is okay for that. Memory I went whit some Corsaire LPX 3000mhz. I bought a 16 go kit (2x8). Storage: Samsung 850 evo 250 go for booting and main games. I'll upgrade it with some HDD for storage later. My motherboard is a Gigabyte AB-350 gaming 3. I bought this one because it have everything I need plus RGB fusion For my PSU I could have saved a few bucks, but I got a EVGA 650w 80+ gold. I got it because it's futureproff and I like the all black wire. And all of that is in a NZXT S340 Elite. Again, I could have save a few bucks, but I like the TG look :). To play on, I have got a Asus 24" monitor. It is Free sync, 75hz, 1 ms. I could have went with a 144hz monitor, but I had a good deal on this monitor, and I use it for my Xbox one two (whitch does not go over 60 fps anyways). The monnitor as dual HDMI so it is perfect for my Xbox and PC. And with a Rx 580, I can't realy go over 80-90 fps wile playing new AAA titles anyway so it is useless to go with a 144hz monitor in my case. I'm using it in a dual monitor config with a 21.5" asus monitor and both a on a dual monitor arm. Thx for your comment, I'm new at PC building and I would like to know if I chose the good parts.
  6. Not the biggest fan of the window that's provided with this case so I got some blue perspex and covered up the existing window, needed 3 layers in total to get the shade of blue I was chasing. Photos are in order of: Before, two angles. The panel without perspex. The panel with one layer. The panel with three layers, two angles. The panel with three layers with the sun behind it. The mod fitted. The mod fitted a second angle to compare with earlier. Total cost = 800JPY & about 45 mins. Required tools, tape, straight edge, box-cutters(Stanley knife) & some electrical tape thinly sliced. This is super easy & super good looking -- hope you try it.
  7. i wanted to know if there was a fix to the nzxt hue+ after being plugged into a strix motherboard. i wanted to see if the hue+ could be controlled with asus aura sync. when i plugged it back into the hue+ connector, only 1 led worked (color green). its very dissapointing to see that something like that broke a strip.
  8. yoo guys, With te new asus maximus vii hero alpha I was wondering if the nzxt hue lighting can be controlled directly of the motherboard or else, which lighting kit does work?
  9. PROJECT: UNKNOWN REBUILD (THIS BUILD IS NOT SPONSORED) So I first did this build using a Used System that I bought off of letgo for $500.00. I thought it was an amazing buy for the price but I immediately dismantled it to change out tubing and clean up the build. Here is the first rendition of Project: Unknown The system came to me already built, but I rebuilt it and cleaned up the look feel of the system. SPECS: CPU: i7 5820K OC'd to 4.5ghz @ 1.3v MOBO: Gigabyte X99 GA-GAMING 5 (rev 1.0) RAM: 4x4GB Corsair Dominator Platinum 3000mhz DDR4 QUAD CHANNEL GRAPHICS CARD: Gigabyte Windforce GTX 970 PSU: EVGA SuperNOVA G2 1300w CASE: Corsair Obsidian Series 900D FULL CUSTOM WATER LOOP USING A MIXTURE OF XSPC/ EK/ AND KOOLANCE. LOTS OF CORSAIR SP120 FANS (NON RGB) All though this build was nice, it was freikin heavy and I could not keep it on my current desk, made me kinda sad. I love watercooling but I felt it was time for a change. Second Rendition of Project: Unknown The second rendition of my build is changing everyday. I basically rebuilt my entire PC based off the purchase of the EVGA GTX 1080TI FTW3 and at that time I was lost on what to do about my watercooling situation. Like I said before I really enjoy watercooling but going through the hassle of changing out GPU blocks and such every few years is just tiresome to my mind. I decided at this point I was going to rebuild my PC if at the very least cosmetically. I actually got most my ideas for this build by watching @LinusTech RGB Build Guide (On FPC of Course) Which can be found in the video below. So What did I actually change? I changed the case, I got rid of all the watercooling, and order some dope AF (as the kids say) RGB Fans and Lights. Although I am still waiting for a lot of the parts to come in I will still list them with the specs. My build is theoretically the same except changing to the 1080ti. I actually dismantled the entire loop because of the new case (NZXT S340 Elite) and just went with a Corsair H100i v2 and ordered 4 HD120 RGB Fans and the Lighting Node Pro. Later down the road I will get my 32gb of RGB Ram although I may go with Corsair on or Gskill. I really like the minimalist design of the NZXT S340 Elite and I just really did not want to spend tons on the the IN WIN Case. Although I do not have RGB shoes or sunglasses I will be rocking my Rainbows of Unicorn Poo Soon. Pictured Below is the start of my build. I wish someone made an RGB cover for SSD's. Well what does everyone think. Please let me know what you like and what you hate. Ill be posting more pictures tonight after work when I add the cooler, and RGB fans and such.
  10. Welcome to my first tutorial! First of all I do not mean to offend anyone at LTT, it's just a joke (every time Linus does DIY it makes me cringe as an engineer student though). That being said, this tutorial is intended to make it as easy as possible for anyone to build a set of LED lights with a similar feature set as the NZXT hue+. This means that every single LED on your strip can be individually controlled. This opens an immense amount of customization options, all within your grasp with the use of a simple app I coded. Oh and by the way the total materials cost is around $25 US. Before we start a few notes and the obligatory disclaimer: This post is meant to serve as a guide, and I am in no way shape or form responsible for any damage that you may cause to your hardware or yourself. That being said, use common sense and you will be fine. Lastly, I must inform you that the app is NOT color accurate due to the nature of LED lighting, and the patterns represented in the app are there to give you an idea of what they will look like in the LEDs: the two are not in sync. Here is what you will need: -Addressable LED strip for a pc case I recommend 1m 60 leds. Here is a link on ebay -Arduino nano as the brains of the operation. Link from ebay -Interal mini USB type B adapter. Ebay link -Sacrificial molex connector with 5v wires. -Small enclosure to protect the arduino -Some mounting mechanism, small magnets or double sided tape -16, 18 or 20 gauge wire if you want to have longer runs Tools and others: -Soldering iron and solder, nothing fancy is needed, but a flat head tip and rosin core solder makes it easier -Miscellaneous tools, scissors, hot glue, pliers, wire strippers, etc. -A drill to make holes in the enclosure -Heatshrink tubing, electrical tape works too -A working computer with the Arduino IDE and FastLED librarie installed -Optional: Multimeter to double check voltages and connections. -Optional: Third hand tool to hold everything in place while you solder -The folder containing all my code: https://github.com/Dany-Boy55/Addressable-WS2812-LED-controller With all of that covered let's get going with the software: Open the file “DIY_LEDSV1.5_Addressable.ino” and plug in your arduino to you pc. At the top of the code you should see a line that says: #define NUM_LEDS 60. Replace the number 60 with the number of leds in your strip. The next line: const String Device_Name = "Case Lights" sets the controller name, replace it if you want but keep it short. Go to Tools→ Board→ ard select your arduino version (nano and ATmega328 for the one I linked). Next go to Control Panel→ Hardware and Sound→ Devices and Printers→ (at the bottom) Unspecified → arduino or USB UART→ double click → hardware. There you should the USB serial port (COM#) where the # represents a number, remember it. Then, on the arduino software, Tools→Port→The port number found earlier. Finally upload the code with the → arrow symbol or Control+U. Some LED’s on the arduino should blink rapidly, when they stop you are done. Now for the hardware, fire up your soldering iron. Identify the white and red wires coming out of the strip and run some heatshrink down them. Grab your molex and extend the cables if needed. Solder red with red (5v) and black with white (GND). IMPORTANT: double check the voltage coming from the molex, otherwise you can fry the strip. Grab the connector that comes with the strip and the arduino. Solder the white wire to a GNP pad and the green (signal) wire to the pad labeled “2”. Drill holes in your enclosure for the USB cable and the connector. IMPORTANT: don not solder the red wire to the arduino! It is better to put some heatshrink or tape over it to prevent shorts. Fix the arduino inside the enclosure with glue and close the lid. Before you install your lights it’s a good idea to test them, so open up your case, power the LEDS from the PSU and plug the arduino into an internal USB port. In the files you got from my github there should be a folder named app, open the executable in there. Once in the app, click on “Scan for leds”. If nothing happens try it a second time after a few seconds. You should see your controller appear in the drop-down box, click "connect". From here on it should be pretty intuitive, select any pattern you like and you should see your LEDs come to life. Feel free to play around with the effects, colors speed etc. Now it’s finally time to install your LED strip and do your best to hide the mustard and ketchup cables that connect everything together. Just throw everything into the back or the base of your case and you should be fine. After you finished tidying up, play around with the app and find your favorite colors and patterns. Thank you for reading this tutorial, and even if you don’t intend to build this yourself, I encourage you to download the app and play around with the patterns and settings. If you have any ideas for new features that you would like to see added please let me know. Also if you find any bugs or problems. The next step is to see if I can find a way to use CPU and GPU temps and utilization for colors, as well as music response. I'm making progress and the feature will most likely be added during the Easter holidays. Anyway, should you have any questions I will gladly answer them the best I can. Dany out!
  11. Hey guys, I'm new to the LTT Forum, HUGE LTT Fan!!! I'm a huge hardware guy and I built my first Real Gaming Rig (past rigs were for family and friends and parts to performance rigs) I am from Sydney Australia and here is my build with specs and benchmarks! *Coolermaster PSU 750M bronze 80+ *Core i7 7700k *NZXT S340 Elite Matte Black *G.Skill Ripjaws V 16GB (2x 8GB) DDR4 2400MHz Memory Silver *Asus 1080ti reference card *MSI Krait Gaming Z270 Motherboard * Hydro Series™ H100i v2 Extreme Performance Liquid CPU Cooler * Icy diamond thermal paste (to be used when CPU block arrives) *OLD OCZ SSD 120 GIG SSD *Samsung EVO 840 1tb SSD *WD 2tb HDD Let me know what you think and what I should improve NEXT, build is on the way! (I will be using a 6400t CPU)!!!!!! with an Asrock z170 backdated bios Price to performance rig!
  12. Hello everyone, i hope you guys could help me. Yesterday I started fitting my x62 onto my asus Maximus formula vii and noticed a substantial gap between de backplate standoffs and the motherboard. I had the same problem with my h100i hydro from corsair, in the extend that I bent a standoff while tightening, ruining my cooling. Thats the reason why I went with a new kit to start of fresh, but to my surprise the problem is back (even if in a new package :p) i searched the net for this problem and there are 2 camps: 1. Fill the gap behind the mobo with washers. 2. Let the backplate be loose, it will tighten upon installation. What at do you guys think? I added some zoomed in pics of the standoffs. Thanks in advance!
  13. Hello Forum, Looking for suggestions and pros/cons for these three TG mid tower cases I'm considering for my new build. Budget is sub $100. I am currently more inclined towards the P400S TG case for its feature set and better asthetics, but I am open to suggestions.
  14. Just a quick off the cuff note. I tried building a budget system for a friend in the NZXT S340. Nice design, if a bit barebones. Clean. However, my particular case had mismatched standoffs and a bent bracket where the screws to lock down the cards go, so that resulted in an RMA. Under a time crunch, I bought a Zalman Neo Z9 from my local shop and built the system in that, and I have something to say (unfortunately, no pictures, sorry). 1) Rubber grommets are nice, but if they pull out when running wire of any gauge through, they're flipping annoying. 2) PSU basements are nice, but not if they're fixed and cannot be removed for installation or personal taste. 3) Lots of fans are nice, but not including PWM fans in this day and age is strange. 4) Zalman's case is why I will always continue to build in full tower cases or higher-end mid-tower cases. No room for my fat hands to run wires. I had to unmount the PSU and tilt it towards the side of the case to get any wires in. 5) Good things about Zalman's case: that it had rubber grommets at all, nice if cheesy lighting options, still had 5.25" bays. Side note: AMD's AM4 default cooler is nice, but the mounting plate system is annoying when you get a motherboard that doesn't have a permanently mounted backplate and can't change the cooler without removing the entire motherboard. Picture from the amazing WWW:
  15. Hi there, I started up my PC today, and one of my case fans started making a weird noise. (I have the video attached) It eventually fixed itself over time, going from 400rpm to 1200. I have some concerns about this and would like to know if there is anything I can do to fix it. I also have noticed that one of my AUX connectors on my Mobo have... varying temps. Going from -120C to 120C. Any feedback is appreciated! Hopefully my screenshots and videos can show what is going on better than I can tell. IMG_0491.MOV
  16. Hi guys first time using this forum just a heads up. so my current set up is running off of a alienware X51 from a few years ago and im looking to migrate it into a new case for upgradability. the case i am looking to move too would be the NZXT S340. my Specs are as follows : cpu - Intel® Core™ I7-3770 Quad Core (8MB Cache, up to 3.40GHz w/ Turbo Boost) gpu- NVIDIA® GeForce® GTX 660 2GB GDDR5 ram- 16gb standard llow profile ram (8gb x2) disks - 1x 128ssd , 1 x 1TB HDD. i am mainly looking for advice for recommend power supply's and any other upgrades that can make the re-casing easier.
  17. I looked up my parts for my build at pcpartpicker , both are compatible but nzxt 340s comes first out of all the cases , while the corsair one , is recommended at 22 th place . Both are excelent cases , have great reviews and are worth their money... although i am more prone to corsair ( since most of my spec items ( ram,psu) are gonna be corsair , and i allready own a scimitar and about to buy k70 rapidfire keyboard ) i still dont know which one to get... from critics i can see they both have lots of space , nice air flow and cable management.... Only thing is, corsair carbide 400c is a bit noisy ( thats what reviews say ) . with both cases costing same money ( NZXT S340 Elite at ; 102.49 euroes , and Corsair Carbide 400C at ; 103.15 euroes ) it's really up to fanciness and austhetics... One thing to notice is that the nzxt has 2x 2.0 usb and 2x 3.0 while the corsair case only has 2x 3.0 ... my usb is 2.0 so does that mean i wont be able to download windows if i get the corsair one? And also, does the nzxt contain a glass panel? because at ''extras'' is has nothing , but on the corsair one , it says ''window''
  18. Hi i understand that for my chassis fans to work in my case i need to connect my cpu fan into the 4 pin connector but i swapped out my air cooler for a kraken x62 today and the only 4 pin i have to use is from one of the rad fans which isnt working. i tried connecting my cpu fan again just to test if this was the issue and all my chassis fans worked with my old air cooler connected the 4 pin. PLEASE how to do i get my chassis fans working again. i need my intake fans badly
  19. Hey guys, I'm building my first PC and was hoping for some advice/help with my components. I already know the parts I want but I don't know if they will work together perfectly. The main thing for me here is basically the PSU (EVGA 750watt G2). I'm pretty sure everything will work with my mobo (Strix Z270E), for example I need 3 internal USB 2.0 connections for my Kraken X62, NZXT Hue and my front panel which it provides (right?). I am also sure that the RAM (G.Skill TridentZ RGB) works perfectly with my mobo and CPU and only has problems with Ryzen (or has that been fixed?). Here is my part list. I am confident that everything should work together but would also like to point out that I will be using an NZXT Hue which requires power through molex, which leads to the questions does my PSU have an adapter? And what about enough sata power connections? I am of course focusing on the PSU, but if you guys see any potential incompatibilities would you care to point them out? These are the specs of the parts I'm most worried about Motherboard Specs (just the USB 2.0 connections pretty much.) PSU Specs NZXT Hue+ Specs (Scroll to bottom of the link) On a completely different note, I am considering the 1080Ti but it is out of my budget. My main game is, and will be for a long time, Overwatch. I know I can get some godly framerates at 1440p with a GTX1080, but would it be worth the upgrade for the couple of hours I play Skyrim and Fallout 4 a week? Thank you
  20. Hi All, I run the following configuration in a NZXT S340Elite case. I7 7700K Kraken X62 Asus GTX1080Ti OC Samsung Evo 850 500GB 2*HDD WD 3TB I use the original fans from the Kraken as intake in the front, a Corsair ML 140mm as top exhaust and Corsair Silent 120mm as rear exhaust. What I noticed using some smoke is that when the GPU is working harder like Gaming or Graphical editing, the fans of the GPU start to spin and they begin to suck air through the rear of the case. Dust (smoke) enters the case through the small holes from the perforated backside. What I would like to do is getting more Positive airpressure by using the topfan as intake also. But missing a filter in the top makes this a big nono. Also wander if there are other people who have this issue and how they deal with this. thanks.
  21. So I just recently sold my GTX 970 which was cooled via NZXT's Kraken G10 and a 120mm radiator. I am currently looking to get either an EVGA Hybrid FTW 1070, an air-cooled 1080, or and air cooled 1070 if the price is good and water-cool it possibly in the future. Temperature-wise, the basement of the NZXT Manta makes aftermarket cooled cards starved for air. Ideally I would just throw an Asus Strix 1070 in there, but pricing for 1070s right now are terrible. Looking at buying a 1070 for nearly 480$ when I can buy a 1080 for around 520$ with Destiny 2 seems absurd. Does anyone have a Manta or similar issue with a small build and have any suggestions? The max I am willing to spend on a GPU is around 600$. Ideally I would like to keep that closer to 500. Thanks for the suggestions.
  22. Hey there! I just wanted to check if I oversee something. System: AsRock H97 Pro4 i7 4790K @ 4,6GHz with NZXT Kraken X61 ZOTAC GTX 1070 AMP! Extreme Edition 16GB DDR3 1600 Ballistix Sport bequiet! System Power 7 500W PSU ASUS MG279Q 27" 144Hz IPS Something Benq 24" as second screen Fractal Design Define R5 case with the radiator mounted in the front with Noctua NF-A14 PWM fans in pull configuration So I recently got the Kraken X61 and the i7 4790K as upgrade to my former i5 and Scythe Mugen 4. I encountered several problems for which I want to outline the basics as short as possible: The AsRock board has not enough USB headers to support the Kraken (I have a PCI Wifi / BT card installed that works only with attached USB Header and I need my front panel USB - all 2 ports used), which is why I cannot control the Kraken via the CAM software To circumvent this, I attached the pump 3-pin connector to the CHA_FAN1 4-pin port on my board, set it to monitor the CPU in BIOS and always run at 100% (as the pump rattles at lower speeds and is inaudible at 100%) I then attached the radiator fans (which I replaced with Noctua NF-A14 PWM ones) to CPU_FAN1 & CPU_FAN2 on my board and made those monitor the CPU and ramp up with higher temperatures (which they do) I did this because CPU_FAN1 and CPU_FAN2 cannot be controlled seperately in the BIOS. Before I did it that way I had my Wifi/BT card uninstalled, connected the Kraken to the USB header and had the CAM software control my fan speeds. So now to the temps during AIDA64 system stability test with only CPU stress and FPU stress selected: Before: CPU max. temps around 68°C Fans barely audible, maybe spinning at 60/70% Test runs for over an hour without issues After: CPU max. temps at 88°C Fans loud as hell (even for Noctuas), spinning at 100% System shuts down and reboots after 5 mins. Pump is spinning fast, I can feel it vibrating when touching the cooler block. Any ideas? I don't know what the issue could possibly be.
  23. I just finished building my new computer, and I went to run Aida64 when I noticed super high temperatures on my CPU. Idle, it bounces around anywhere from 28c-40c and while running Aida64, temps hit 90c. I reinstalled the Kraken x52 just to make sure it wasn't a bad install the first time around, but this fixed nothing. If you have any idea of what could be happening here, please leave some advise, thanks!
  24. When i first got this case I didn't have any issues at all with the leds. Then about 3 months ago the button on the back of the case stopped working. Until now i haven't cared about the leds but it would be nice if they worked since it's only one and a half years old. When I press the button, the leds stay on until i release the button. Has anyone got the same problem and can anyone help?
  25. Hi! What do you think about Deepcool case's? I can't find anything about build quality ect. And also which case is better ? NZXT s340 elite White or NZXT h440 white ? My pc will be : CPU - ryzen 5 1600 Cooling - kraken x52 Motherboard - asrock x370 killer Ram - 2x8gb g skill trident z RGB GPU - gtx 970 zotac Extreme core