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I was recently notice about this problem, and i don't use my PC in heavy load. anybody know about this problem and know how to fix it without formatting/reinstall my Windows? OS: Windows 10 22H2 SSD: Kingston NV1, SNVS250G (250GB) PCIe 3rg Gen

I noticed something when I look at some videos. Instead of saying, “1 week ago,” it says, “8 days ago.” I was confused on what is going on. I checked out another video, but this one said, “2 weeks ago.” So, is it a glitch on my end, or have other people experienced this?

i need help my ps4 is working perfectly to my tv but it says no input when i plug it into my acer v7 v227q ive troubleshooted as much as i can any idea

I recently got a Nokia Lumia 2520 from a second-hand market (i know it's pretty old but it's what I needed, eheh) but now I got a big issue: The battery seems to not charge. I tried with the tab turned on and off too but nothing seems to work, it works only with the power brick inserted and Windows telss me constantly "plugged in but not charging" while stuck at 0%. The battery seems to OK (not faulty) since it doesn't say "battery missing" or "non detected" but still there's no way to charge it. I tried the trick of resetting battery drivers in Windows but it didn't work, I dunno if I did something wrong. Someone has a solution, please?

I was using my computer today when it crashed suddenly and went through a strange reboot cycle before saying that windows didn't load and needed to be recovered. The recovery seemed to work and I am writing this post from my computer, but the microsoft store refuses to start. Same with any microsoft store apps. I've tried everything I can find to fix it, from checking the registry, updating windows, resetting the store (wsreset.exe), but nothing seems to work. What else can I try? However, it has been 4 years since I installed windows 10 so I am due for a reset anyway. If I can't fix this problem I'm fine with starting over.

I have just realized something. My room doesn’t have Ethernet in it. Do I have to get a WiFi adapter for a PC to even work and play games online?

Hi, I am unable to boot windows on my computer. It installs perfectly fine but after rebooting I get a BSOD which immediately reboots. What should I do now? I have tried many different isos and versions but none work Specs are in my profile page 20210916_085419.mp4

Hi, So I did a fresh install of windows 10 but BT is still not working in it. I have a MSI GT60 2PC laptop with Killer-n1202 wifi+bt adapter. I dual boot my laptop with kubuntu 20.04 LTS. The weird thing is in the fresh install of windows the Bluetooth won't work. If I boot into ubuntu the BT works flawlessly without any issues. After using the BT once in ubuntu when I switch back to windows the bluetooth will work in windows as well, until I poweroff the laptop for a significant duration (if I restart the BT will keep working), or the laptop goes to sleep then bluetooth won't work the next time I boot into windows. Will have to switch back to linux for a while to get BT working on windows. Adapter Name: Qualcomm Atheros QCZ 61x4 Bluetooth Driver Provider: Qualcomm Currently Installed Driver Version and date: 10.0.0.967 and 19-08-2020 Feels like windows is unable to wake the BT device up from sleep or something. Thanks

For some time now, educational web service lynda.com has been known for sponsoring various publications. lynda.com offers you a wide variety of online courses to improve your personal skills, mainly in media applications such as web design, photography or video editing. Today, lynda.com closes a hole in their choice of courses by starting to offer a professional course on sponsor integration. Here's why: If you thought that the creators of a youtube channel with over one million subscribers could maintain a certain degree of professionalism when integrating their sponsors, you were wrong. Many times it has been proven that some people really need to practise. From now on, they will not only be able to better follow their guidelines for the integration, but also report their own experience with the service, which is generally described as decent. That guy says he learned how to have sex online - certainly not on lynda.com. Yet. The course covers topics such as "transitioning to the advertisement", "reading your sponsor guidelines right" or "how not to laugh when a rapper's name is in the product name". Especially the lesson on remembering the details of a special offer is expected to serve a high demand. So instead of wondering wether the girl on the lynda.com-logo shaves her legs or not, the sponsorship recipient can now fully focus on advertising the service.

It's not the first time that our closest relatives surprise us with unexpectedly intelligent behaviour. But this time, scientists have found that in certain groups of chimpanzees, located in west Africa, the animals are capable of competently handling a topic that overburdens even some of us. Whenever a major game title is released, the publisher gives you the option to "pre-order" the game (George Carlin already pointed at the overuse of the prefix "pre" in his airline sketch). Pre-ordering a game is (usually) not any different from just "ordering" a game, except you don't get the game yet. As the sane mind quickly concludes, this is a rather stupid thing to do. Latonya Williams, an economy expert, confirms: "By pre-ordering a game, you take away financial risk from the publisher. Sometimes the publisher gives you a reward for that, like a rebate or exclusive in-game items, but otherwise you basically give a loan with zero interest rate." An additional drawback of pre-ordering a game is that you don't know what you get. Usually, pre-order phases start long before the game is close to being finished (or what the developer calls so), and therefore no external reviews of the game are available. This has led to some frustration as some pre-orderers have found that a game's quality sometimes does not match the announcements and advertisements of the developer. So by not pre-ordering a game, not only do you get financial advantages, but also you can read external reviews and inform yourself about the game that you are interested in, which can actually lead to the decision to not buy the game. Now the chimpanzees are clear about this, and most of today's gamers have understood this as well, usually by the aforementioned experience. But there are still many people who pre-order games. We don't know what those people would feel if we told them that they are outperformed by a bunch of west African monkeys when it comes to game shopping. This way, the average chimpanzee estimately saves some hundred dollars per year by not pre-ordering games. If this advanced technique applies to music albums or books as well, is now the essential object of research. Maybe we'll be surprised another time.

I recently got my new cpu the I-5 9400f to change it out for my old i3-7100. When I installed the I-5 my computer didn’t want to turn on. I tried to find the problem and after switching out the cpu for my old one again the computer booted up perfectly. I tried going back and forth a few times and nothing has worked. I haven’t found any similar cases online either.

I noticed today after trying to ignore @TVwazhere's sig (not everyone's, just his) and I noticed I couldn't do that. its kinda annoying due to the... colorfulness of his sig but I want to keep other's sig. I would like to see this (ignore the usr name it doesnt matter)

Hello guys, I recently bought a Ryzen 5 1600 AF alongside a used GTX 780 to update my budget study/light gaming rig from the Ryzen 3200G APU I had before. Quick specs (more system info at the bottom of the post): Mobo: ASRock B450M-HDV R4.0 - BIOS version: P3.70 (https://www.asrock.com/MB/AMD/B450M-HDV R4.0/index.asp#CPU you can see the 1600AF is supported, at the end of the list) CPU: Ryzen 5 1600AF (YD1600BBAFBOX) RAM: 2x8GB G.Skill Ripjaws 4 DDR4-2400 GPU: Gigabyte GTX 780 Windforce 3GB PSU: Be Quiet! Pure Power 10 600W Sadly the system just won't boot/post anything no matter what I try, which to this point was: Updated the motherboard (Asrock B450M-HDV R4.0) to the latest BIOS (p3.70) that should support the 1600 AF Used just one RAM stick in both (2) slots Checked all cables: CPU power cable, CPU fan cable, GPU power cable, HDMI connected to GPU Cleared CMOS (jumpers & battery) Returned the 1600AF to the shop and received a new one, still doesn't post :I Tried on a different monitor with a different HDMI cable Checked on BeQuiet site if the PSU is powerful enough for the system (it is, 600W) The same system runs perfectly using the Athlon 200GE I bought to update the BIOS and it's using the discrete GPU (GTX 780). This isn't my first build (something like the 7th) and I have no idea what's wrong. This should work, right? I'm considering trying to ask the shop if I could switch the AF with a Ryzen 3100, although the 1600 AF really was more interesting for me as I'm studying computer science and always compiling programs. Any help is greatly appreciated! Working system specs (using the Athlon 200GE): [chris@chris-ryzenPC ~]$ inxi -Fxz System: Host: chris-ryzenPC Kernel: 5.6.12-1-MANJARO x86_64 bits: 64 compiler: gcc v: 9.3.0 Desktop: KDE Plasma 5.18.5 Distro: Manjaro Linux Machine: Type: Desktop Mobo: ASRock model: B450M-HDV R4.0 serial: <filter> UEFI [Legacy]: American Megatrends v: P3.70 date: 11/14/2019 Battery: Device-1: hidpp_battery_0 model: Logitech K780 Multi-Device Wireless Keyboard charge: 100% (should be ignored) status: Discharging Device-2: hidpp_battery_1 model: Logitech K780 Multi-Device Wireless Keyboard charge: 100% (should be ignored) status: Discharging CPU: Topology: Dual Core model: AMD Athlon 200GE with Radeon Vega Graphics bits: 64 type: MT MCP arch: Zen L2 cache: 1024 KiB flags: avx avx2 lm nx pae sse sse2 sse3 sse4_1 sse4_2 sse4a ssse3 svm bogomips: 25562 Speed: 1843 MHz min/max: 1600/3200 MHz Core speeds (MHz): 1: 1843 2: 1718 3: 1740 4: 1706 Graphics: Device-1: NVIDIA GK110 [GeForce GTX 780] vendor: Gigabyte driver: nvidia v: 440.82 bus ID: 01:00.0 Display: x11 server: X.Org 1.20.8 driver: nvidia resolution: 1920x1080~60Hz OpenGL: renderer: GeForce GTX 780/PCIe/SSE2 v: 4.6.0 NVIDIA 440.82 direct render: Yes Audio: Device-1: NVIDIA GK110 High Definition Audio vendor: Gigabyte driver: snd_hda_intel v: kernel bus ID: 01:00.1 Device-2: AMD Family 17h HD Audio vendor: ASRock driver: snd_hda_intel v: kernel bus ID: 0a:00.6 Device-3: Asahi Kasei Microsystems type: USB driver: snd-usb-audio bus ID: 1-6.1.4:8 Sound Server: ALSA v: k5.6.12-1-MANJARO Network: Device-1: Realtek RTL8111/8168/8411 PCI Express Gigabit Ethernet vendor: ASRock driver: r8169 v: kernel port: e000 bus ID: 08:00.0 IF: enp8s0 state: up speed: 1000 Mbps duplex: full mac: <filter> Drives: Local Storage: total: 238.47 GiB used: 152.13 GiB (63.8%) ID-1: /dev/nvme0n1 vendor: Samsung model: MZVLB256HAHQ-000H1 size: 238.47 GiB Partition: ID-1: / size: 225.78 GiB used: 151.22 GiB (67.0%) fs: ext4 dev: /dev/nvme0n1p2 ID-2: /boot size: 243.8 MiB used: 140.7 MiB (57.7%) fs: ext4 dev: /dev/nvme0n1p1 ID-3: swap-1 size: 7.81 GiB used: 0 KiB (0.0%) fs: swap dev: /dev/nvme0n1p3 Sensors: System Temperatures: cpu: 30.0 C mobo: N/A gpu: nvidia temp: 30 C Fan Speeds (RPM): N/A gpu: nvidia fan: 17% Info: Processes: 268 Uptime: 43m Memory: 15.56 GiB used: 2.65 GiB (17.0%) Init: systemd Compilers: gcc: 9.3.0 Shell: bash v: 5.0.16 inxi: 3.0.37

Hey, I bought a new MB 3 months ago. I’m using the same case with the same fans. Only yesterday I realized that the fans are not spinning. I have 2 fans with 3 pin connector. On my motherboard I have only 4 pin connectors so 1 fan is connected to 4 pin, and one with molex. In my gigabyte bios I can see in 5 smart fan (something in bios) my cpu fan and he is RPM and sys fan 1 and sys fan 2 with RPM 0.

So, last week I finished setting up my office internet with Spectrum. Currently it is running on an Arris Modem/Router combo, which I know is garbage and I'm planning on replacing it anyway. However, the main problem is the title. Out of the 5 computers connected to the network, my laptop, a Dell Inspiron 15-7577, is the only computer with problems accessing the internet, regardless of being connected through 5G wifi, or ethernet through the phone system. To summarize what is happening is that I can connect to the wifi and have connection for up to 5 minutes at a time, before losing internet access, yet still being connected to the 5G network. Same issue through ethernet, but 5G seems more stable than ethernet, which also doesn't make sense to me. I have tried renewing my ip address (cmd, ipconfig /renew) which didn't help with resolving the problem. I have narrowed the problem down to something with my computer, as the router, while pretty trash, doesn't seem to give the other computers problems. I have included a CMD log that spans some 10-20 minutes ish of me pinging 8.8.8.8 Edit: Just noticed that if I disconnect and reconnect from the wifi after losing internet access, I regain internet access. cmdlog.txt

When i turn on my pc it gets to the windows 10 sign in screen and after i log in the screen goes black for 10 mins. Then the background appears but when i click on something it takes a minute to open and then goes white saying not responding. I have tried reseting cmos battery and booting with only nessessities but to no avail. Thanks for any help you can give. PC specs Fx 6300 Nvidia gtx 750 ti Msi 970 mobo Seagate 1tb hard drive Hyper x 8gb ram 750 watt 80+ bronze power supply No overclocks

I have a formatted drive on my laptop, Dell XPS 13 9333, and I want to install windows. However I have tried multiple times and I always get stuck, either on on "Getting devices ready" or just a blank screen. Help is much appreciated as I need this laptop for school.

Hello, I'm having a problem with an HDMI splitter I just bought. The splitter is a CSL 1 in 2 out HDMI splitter. My setup is as follows; I have a PC which sends an HDMI signal to a splitter which then splits the signal to a monitor and an Avermedia Live Gamer Extreme Capture Card which then sends the recorded signal to my laptop. The problem is that if I connect the capture card first to the splitter, the PC recognises the capture card and therefore the sound starts playing... but then nothing shows up on the monitor not even the video. This does not happen if I connect the monitor first but then suddenly I don't have audio passing through my capture card. The monitor only has a DVI port so I had to buy a cheap HDMI to DVI adapter. I'm using an HDMI splitter rather than the HDMI passthrough of the capture card because the quality is much better. Help

So I work for the local YMCA in the child watch center. I watch kids ages 3-12 years old and make sure they don't hurt themselves. I can't calm a screaming child to save my life. So I worked a shift from noon to 4pm and things began to get interesting. Two kids who see me constantly because I work so much decided I was a jungle gym to climb on. One little one decided the leg was the best spot to hang on while her sister decided my head is the best target. They came from 2 different directions one from my left and the other off a bench on my right. Once both children had a death grip hugging me the others came. Two boys, brothers of course, decided to aid in this assault on my balance. One came head on and tried to near tackle my waist. The other was going for the free leg. Through sweat and tears I trudged my way to the bench. More. It was one then it was ten. All in one giant pile of arms, legs, and heads on one bench. If this doesn't get sent across the building I will be surprised.

I recently get a 1440p monitor to add to my current 1080p and 1050p monitors, and noticed that when I'm watching YouTube, Theatre Mode isn't very large, it's about the same size if not smaller than the normal view. Anyone know of a solution to this other than zooming in? (I don't want everything else on the page to be larger, just the video, and I don't want to watch in fullscreen) On the subject of 1440p, it seems the Windows 8.1 Snipping Tool refuses to make rectangular snips when I select more than around 75-80% of my 1440p monitor, it'll just go back to how it is when you start the program up where you have to tell it if you want to take a snip.

Hello, recently i built my first PC and two weeks later I had some issues. One morning I turned on the pc and it did not post. So i started looking the hardware to check if there was any problem. After a while i found out that my pc was working fine when i took out one of the two ram sticks. Though i continued dissasembling the computer completely and then assembling it back and check everytime when i was turning it on if it had the normal response. Everything was fine so I said what the heck i will try both rams again and it started working perfectly again. After a week though i had the same issue, i tried to turn it on in the morning and again it could not post, so i took of the "problematic" ramstick and now it's working fine again. I already have tried updating bios and checkin the ramslots on the motherboard. tha ramstick was not working either when it was alone on the mobo. I want from you to tell me if there is the possibility that the problem is with the motherboard or cpu or... and not the ramstick. the built is: ASUS z170-a i5 6600k 2x4 Corsair Vengeance 2133 EVGA superNOVA 650W powersupply

Hello , I have bought a splitter cable and a USB to audio converter with microphone and speaker but when I plug in the splitter cable to my computer the speakers work not the microphone , when I try fixing it their are sometimes sounds that sound like dialup and high frequency sounds that may give up a headache , and I am using a earphone which supports both microphone and audio but when I look at the splitter cable their is a line missing on the jack . is their any way to fix this? for those who are curious why I have a splitter cable and a USB to headphone and microphone jack because my computer doesn't have a headphone jack .

Hey guys, I've been experiencing a problem with my bluetooth recently. I am always connected to bluetooth in my car or using my samsung level U, I use it for both media streaming and calls. But about one week ago when ever I am connected to bluetooth either to my car or my samsung level U I can only listen to music, but can't receive or make calls. So I'd be listening to music but if I get a call.. I can't answer through the car i need to pick up my phone. Same thing for my level U. I've tried everything from simply unpairing and pairing it again. To clearing the bluetooth cache. The problem only seems to go away when I restart my phone. But it will only work once after I disconnect bluetooth the first time the problem appears again. Ive also tried to simply check the phone audio selection under the bluetooth menu but it wont check it. FYI i use to have an HTC One M7 before this phone. And it works just fine. I also tested a Samsung Note 3 with both the car and the Level U, it works just fine. Specs: Phone: HTC One X9 dual sim ( Android 6.0)

I have the HP 2800 Slate 7 and it doesn't seem to be booting up. Whenever I plug it in it shows the HP Logo and goes to a black screen. I tried pushing the power and volume buttons but nothing happened. Any help?