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After a reasonably long thread with various parts being changed out, as I did on my home workstation, I am starting a new thread to show the final itteration of this build. It has had 3 different motherboards in it, 2 different CPUs and various other changes so this is the final version of this build - the next work PC will be a scratch build, which hopefully won't be for some time! Like my home workstation, it is totally overkill but will hopefully facilitate some flexibility on the tasks its put to use on in the future. And so to the specs: CPU: Intel i9 9900kf Motherboard: Gigabyte Z390 UD RAM: HyperX 64gb (4x16gb) DDR4 3000MHz CL15 GPU: Asus TUF Gaming RTX2060 6GB GDDR6 Case: Cooler Master MasterBox E500L Red Storage (OS) Samsung 970 EVO Plus 500GB / (Data) Samsung 850 EVO 500GB PSU: Corsair RM650x 80 PLUS Gold 650W Display: Philips 273V Cooling: Noctua NH-D15 + 3x 120mm Noctua case Fans Keyboard: MS Wired 600 Desktop Mouse: MS Wired 600 Desktop Sound: Onboard HD Audio Operating System: Win 10 Pro 64 Bit Benchmarks: CPU-Z: https://valid.x86.fr/nmrjwx Passmark: https://www.passmark.com/baselines/V10/display.php?id=136242114873 Basemark GPU: https://powerboard.basemark.com/benchmark-result/920970 3DMark Time Spy: https://www.3dmark.com/3dm/58074465 3DMark Time Spy Extreme: https://www.3dmark.com/3dm/58074852 PCMark 10: https://www.3dmark.com/pcm10/57776223 Blender BMW CPU: https://opendata.blender.org/benchmarks/f6daf753-7cd7-462c-9215-f63307bb01ea/ Blender BMW GPU (Optix): https://opendata.blender.org/benchmarks/fbef3940-1e64-49ff-8561-576854ef33a1/ UBM: https://www.userbenchmark.com/UserRun/39002361 Geekbench 5 CPU: https://browser.geekbench.com/v5/cpu/6267643 Geekbench 5 GPU (Cuda): https://browser.geekbench.com/v5/compute/2345501 Bright Memory - Infinite RTX Benchmark (Max settings @ 1920x1080) FPS: 119 Resident Evil 6 Benchmark (Max settings @ 1920x1080) Score: 29731 Unigine Heaven Benchmark 4.0 DX11 (Exreme settings @ 1600x900) Min/Max/Avg FPS - Score: 9.3/289.4/134.1 - 3377 Cinebench Release 23 Multi Core: 13699 Cinebench Release 23 Single Core: 1367 FurMark Preset 1080 (FHD / Fullscreen): https://gpuscore.top/furmark/show.php?id=276460 Pictures:
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Intro I have updated Home Workstation V3 (even though I said I would do a scratch build next – I am full of BS). The reason for a new thread is the GPU, Motherboard, Monitor, KBD & Mouse are the same brand now so its now a Gigabyte Aorus build and so really is a themed build as opposed to throw a bunch of stuff together from random vendors type-build. In 2019 this was the specification of the ultimate single GPU gaming rig - what a difference a year makes! In 2020, it still can play with the newer CPU/GPUs on AAA titles without being left too far behind. I was thinking about a Gigabyte/Aorus case, cooler and RAM to properly finish off the look but the Corsair and Noctua components do a wonderful job I will leave the build as a trio of brands - a quintet if you include Intel and Samsung! Specifications CPU: Intel i9 9900kf Motherboard: Gigabyte Aorus Z390 Pro RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX 64GB (4x16 GB) DDR4 3200MHz C16 GPU: Gigabyte Aorus GeForce RTX 2080 ti Xtreme 11G Case: Corsair 275R Airflow Storage: (OS) Samsung 970 EVO Plus 1TB / (Data) Samsung 860 EVO 1TB PSU: Corsair RM750x 80 PLUS Gold 750W Display: Aorus FI27Q-P Cooling: Noctua NH-D15 CPU + 4x NF-S12A PWM case fans Keyboard: Aorus K1 Mouse: Aorus M3 / Aorus AMP500 pad Sound: Onboard HD Audio Headset: Aorus H5 Operating System: Win 10 Pro 64 Bit Benchmarks Stable CPU all-core OC at 5.1GHz / RAM OC at 3600MHz C16 / GPU using Aorus Engine to set boost to 1900MHz & Memory clock to 16000MHz to achieve the following benchmarks: CPU-Z: https://valid.x86.fr/xwht7d Passmark: https://www.passmark.com/baselines/V10/display.php?id=133093128271 Basemark GPU: https://powerboard.basemark.com/benchmark-result/868105 3DMark Time Spy: https://www.3dmark.com/3dm/55634449 3DMark Time Spy Extreme: https://www.3dmark.com/3dm/55655576 PCMark 10: https://www.3dmark.com/pcm10/53901645 Blender BMW CPU: https://opendata.blender.org/benchmarks/1e1b3d36-1087-49d9-b9b3-2ae177467654/ Blender BMW GPU (Optix): https://opendata.blender.org/benchmarks/3259b48b-b860-46d0-bfc9-4963f5b55bee/ UBM: https://www.userbenchmark.com/UserRun/37545145 Geekbench 5 CPU: https://browser.geekbench.com/v5/cpu/5087816 Geekbench 5 GPU (Cuda): https://browser.geekbench.com/v5/compute/1969429 Bright Memory - Infinite RTX Benchmark (Max settings @ 1920x1080) FPS: 192 Resident Evil 6 Benchmark (Max settings @ 1920x1080) Score: 35039 Unigine Heaven Benchmark 4.0 DX11 (Max settings @ 1920x1080) Min/Max/Avg FPS - Score: 41.8/414.9/198.2 - 4993 Cinebench Release 23 Multi Core: 13607 Cinebench Release 23 Single Core: 1336 FurMark Preset 1080 (FHD / Fullscreen): https://gpuscore.top/furmark/show.php?id=244239 FurMark Preset 1440 (QHD / Fullscreen): https://gpuscore.top/furmark/show.php?id=244240 Pictures
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I recently bought the parts to upgrade my ASUS x570-based system to an AMD Ryzen 9 5950X. Unfortunately, I only noticed after purchasing (and too late to return) that my new bequiet Dark Rock Pro 5 CPU cooler is 3mm too tall for my existing case, a bequiet Pure Base 600. While I checked motherboard compatibility with the cooler before purchase, I wrongly assumed it would work in the case - and nothing on bequiet's website talks about how some of their air coolers aren't compatible with some of their cases. Now that I've found Noctua's immensely helpful Compatibility Centre database, that'll never happen again. I don't game on this machine, but I crunch big databases and spreadsheets and also do some video and photo editing, so I use a CD/DVD/BR-R/W optical drive fairly regularly. I bought the Pure Base 600 because it is one of the few modern cases I've found with a convenient optical drive bay. For silence and aesthetics, I've used all black bequiet components where available. My conundrum is this: Do I... A. Buy a new bequiet Silent Base 802 case and use the Dark Rock Pro 5 cooler, but then have to use an external optical drive? It's the best cooling option, the USB-C port (for the external drive) is right on top, and I can repurpose the old case for a secondary system. The downside - besides the janky external optical drive (that won't do BR) - is cost. It's about $220 for case & external optical drive. B. Buy a Dark Rock Slim cooler and use my existing Pure Base 600 case? The cooling capacity is lower, but reviews say it can handle the 5950X as long as I don't OC. The upside is the price (only $60) and I can add a second fan to improve cooling by 1-3 degrees. I also keep the optical drive as-is. Besides cooling capacity, another downside is that I'd have to shelve the brand-new Dark Rock Pro 5 until I could use it in the future. C. Buy a Noctua NH-D15s chromax.black cooler and use my existing Pure Base 600 case? This lets me keep the optical drive and the cooling is apparently between the Slim and the Pro 5. The two downsides are cost (about $120) and the same shelving of the Dark Rock Pro 5. I liked the idea of being all-bequiet, but it's not the end of the world to add this cooler since the aesthetics are close enough. Also, this cooler is supposedly a little bit noisier than the two bequiet coolers. I'm leaning toward A because it means no parts end up sitting unused on a shelf and it gives me maximum performance from the 5950X, but I'm open to others' thoughts...
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Rate my screwdriver collection Would be interesting to know if there are any other LTT Merch Collectors
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Hello, I have a question that I want to know. Which is better when it comes to cooling, 3 120mm fans or 2 140mm fans? On the website for the case I have one of the sides support up to either 3 120’s or 2 140’s (the case I have is the MSI MPG Velox 100R if that info is useful) the fans I am planning on using is the Noctua A12x25 fan as my 120mm fans and the Noctua A14 fans as my 140mm fans if that is of any help. What is better at cooling the 3 A12x25’s or 2 A14’s? -
Does anyone know if there is an update on having an EU retailer stock the Noctua edition screwdrivers? I have been eyeing one up, but the shipping costs for a single driver personally make it a really poor value proposition.
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Status: Final Important Notes: I've design this to work on my AMD Frameworks motherboard and the Intel boards are untested. Follow this guide at your own risk. Spoilers: Framework has hamstrung the AMD Ryzen chipset by throttling the CPU to a paltry sum of just 17W. Under all core utilization the max that I can my chip to clock upto is 2100 Mhz, and 1750 Average Mhz. I was able to clock the 760m to a boost clock of 2400 before the performance starts to fall on it's face. For overclocking I am using AATU though not fully supported I was able to clock the iGPU higher than what I was able to by default. I had ambitions of making the cpu holder customized to replace the Framework cooler with desktop eniterly but this mod is all that is needed to keep the fan from making an absolute ear piercing noise. With the fan directly contacting the heat pipes it's able to keep the whole package under 42C. If you are able to get the 7000 Series Mobile processor to overclock please let me know. Till then this project is done. Description: I've spent yesterday modeling a replacement cover that holds the heatsink in place over the top of the heatsinks off the cooler-master heat spreader. Similar to the design as Elevated Systems design but adapted to suit the model of Nactua heatsink I've selected. It utilizes the holes in the aluminium sheets and the actual heat tubes to compress the heatsink down onto the existing heat pipes. Printed with rigid enough material should apply enough force to compress the heatsink down to effectively transfer heat to Nactua heatsink and fan. Works in progress: *Automatic speed controls depending on the CPU temp via eBay +12VDC adapter. Example: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/305269828606 Community Ideas: (Suggestions here) Things you'll need *Frameworks/Cooler Masters Standalone Case *Frameworks AMD Motherboard *3D printer with build volume of 200mm*150mm *2mm thermal pads to pickup a few voltage regulators (optional) *2x M2x8mm bolts Reference: Link to Elevated Systems video - Hopes and Dream: Future projects on this are to integrate the standalone case and external GPU case. Though after exhaustive research it's not currently worth the investment of the hardware. Maybe after USB5 comes out then it can be more worth while but till then it's just simply not worth it. Happy printing Framework Fan Mod Right V1.0.STL Framework Fan Mod Left V1.0.STL
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I came across ltt edition noctua fan but can't seem to buy it anywhere. Where can I get it brand new?
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Cardboard wind chute/tunnel - Edit: Final Prototype Complete.
Madmaximus01 posted a topic in Cooling
In my continual journey to improve my pc I thought hey why dont I try making a wind chute/tunnel for my cpu air cooler just for a laugh, it'll take 10mins and then it will fail and I can laugh at myself for even trying. Turns out just using some roughly cut cardboard and some tape works extremely well. Not only is my cpu getting direct fresh air from the outside, it's seperated from the gpu's hot air. I now get idle temps of about 32-33 degrees. I knew this would have a positive effect of some kind. But an overall temp drop of 10 degrees+ is absolutely insane. My cpu barely touches 60 degrees now. Cinebench r23 it sticks around 70-74 degrees. Why on earth this form factor/idea fell away from popularity several decades ago in the pc enthusiast market I have no idea. This has severely improved my cooling by a level I didnt even think possible. Yes there is a screwgun drill bit holding up my gpu fight me
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Hello I recently bought the Noctua NF-A4x20 PWN to replace the Nidec Ultraflo fans in my PSU. When I now turn on the PSU it starts for like 3 seconds before shutting down and starting again. Can anyone please help me? I used this as a help.
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Hello I recently bought a Supermicro Server chassis for my home Server and the Nidec fans in it are extremely loud, so I search for a Noctua replacement. Do you have any recommendations.
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Hi all, Im currently running a 7800X3D with a Thermalright frost commander, and planning to upgrade to an Assassin IV for aesthetic purposes and noise reduction in future. Im wondering if an offset bracket would also help with this? Lowerings temps slightly and resulting in a quieter fan speed for similar temps, i know it will be a minor change, just wondering if its worth the cost? As its not a noctua cooler, am i, 1. still able to buy and use an appropriate noctua offset mount for my cooler? or 2. will i have to buy a thermal grizzly one? The only issue with the thermal grizzly one is its quite expensive for what it will achieve coming in at £29 or almost $37. Any thoughts?
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I have had my airflow set up like this. The idle temperature is ≈ 40°C. Is this an ideal setup? Can it be improved if I add another fan on top? Specs: i7-13700K with Noctua NH-U12A MSI RTX 3060
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How is the hyte y70 toutch to build in, is there enough space for a RTX 4080 noctua in it or should i build in a different case?
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Budget (including currency): 60000NOK Country: Norway Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: normal fps/ rpg games etc mby som racing sims Other details (existing parts lists, whether any peripherals are needed, what you're upgrading from, when you're going to buy, what resolution and refresh rate you want to play at, etc): i have almost everything planed, but i need som help, does the rtx 4080 noctua oc fit in the Hyte y70 toutch or should i pic another case like the nzxt h9 flow?
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I'm going to upgrade my CPU cooler to a noctua nh-d14 or a noctua nh-d15. Does the $20 price difference justify its performance? Also, I have the Node 804 m-atx case and the specifications say that it supports cpu coolers up to 160mm. The nh-d14 is 160mm with fans, and the nh-d15 is 165mm with fans. Will it work, or does that 5mm mean it wont fit at all?
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Just swapped out my dead AIO for a Noctua NH-D15 and was wondering if these temps were normal. CPU is an i9-9900K. For context, was playing Overwatch 2. When playing Starfield my temps maxed out at 85. Ambient temperature is around 27.5 C.
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I've made a step by step on painting your Noctua fans for newbies or anyone this technique is good and cheap and wont effect airflow or noise Things you need Fans Cardboard box Knife Chop sticks something to that effect Can of spray paint To read this guide fully before you start First get everything together set up your box and start breaking down the fans here I've used 2 NF S12's, a NF P12, and a NF S12B Apply medium pressure to the back of the blades and that fan will come right off Next un pick the cables from there restraints And pull the motor from its mount Turn over the fan and peel the sticker off (you may need the knife) Watch out for this small round metal piece under the sticker its a magnet Now place one chopstick through your screw hole And start spraying LESS IS MORE use very short sparys, do not put the can too close 8 inches (20 cm) is as close as you ever want to be and keep your hand moving, start the spray away from the fan and finish away from the fan try and only spray each part once you only need one coat this is also important when you have to touch up as to not change the profile of the blades or any sizes so it will fit back together If you make a small hole in the top of the box you can place it here to dry Now for the fans if you rest them against the back at a slight angle only the small tip of 3 blade touch the box so it will be fine to spray REMEMBER LESS IS MORE if you don't get complete coverage don't worry you can sort it later Once the fan is dry the technique I used was to hold the inside dowel and spray one fin at a time at a right angle to the fan, this prevented any paint from getting on the inside and saved me taping it up, it also made it very fast this whole process took me only 15 mins including taking photos Once everything is dry check over all parts for any touch ups needed there should be loads if you were careful about using as little paint as possible, fix these with a very low pressure spray aimed at the area and I will repeat but do not put the can too close 8 inches (20 cm) is as close as you ever want to be Now everything is dry and painted we will put it back together its very straight forward just what you did before but in reverse On some models the NF S12 in this case,there is a rasied chip on the pcb that must relocate through the rectangle hole, the others have the hole but i assume this is because all the shrouds are the same Then just re seat your cables push them in with your finger nail (dont use a blade as you will remove the paint) And there you go
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Hey all! I’ve been trying to set up the H500 case with the 200mm Noctua fans in the front exactly as seen in the LTT video “This Ugly PC Will BLOW YOUR MIND“ but I’ve seem to run into a problem where the anti vibration mounts are just a little too big to even fit through the holes. While watching said video I notice a giant jumpcut right as he actually installs the mounts, so I wonder, should I need to do any special prep work on the case? Or is pulling this damn mount with all my might eventually going to work? Thanks! (sorry if this has been asked before, i really suck at searching through forums lol) -
I have an Asus WS WRX80E-sage se motherboard in a Fractal Torrent case, and just got a new Noctua NH-U14S TR4-SP3 cpu fan. But I can't really figure out how best to setup the airflow, since the Noctua has to be oriented horizontally (blowing up/down rather than front/back), and the Torrent case has a top-mounted PSU. Any suggestions on how to layout the airflow for this? My current setup is 2x 180mm front fans and 3x 140mm bottom fans, all pulling in with no exhaust fan. But I can easily change all this around if needed.
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I just got a 5800x3d as one last hurrah for my AM4 system. Since my build is in the NCase M1v6, I couldn't have too big of a CPU. I wanted to stay with air cooling for ease of use and decided on the NH-D9L as an upgrade over my NH-L9x65. The problem is that whenever I run an all core workload (in this case, Cinebench R23), the CPU would hit 90°C almost immediately. I did the -30 offset in PBO and followed the setup from OptimumTech's video on PBO. After editing the power limit for the CPU in the bios, I was able to consistently get temps of 85°C under 100% usage. I've already tried repasting the CPU (from Noctua H1 to Arctic TP-6 since that has been working better for me recently). This problem happens in both an open air test bench and case with nearly identical performance. Is this what I should have expected from the NH-D9L or is there somewhere that I could have gone wrong with it?
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Budget (including currency): $5000 Country: canada Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: gaming and blender Other details does anybody know if the noctua NM-AMB15 cooling offset mounting bar works with the ryzen 9 7950x with the noctua HN-D15 cpu cooler on it and the CPU not being de-lidded (i only know about it because of linus's video called "Noctua's New Cooler Voids Your Warranty...." and he talked a bit about de-lidded CPU's)?
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Incase anyone was wondering NF-A20 fans will fit in the front of a 7000D and still have room for fan grills and 120mm fans in the side.
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10850K settings on XTU: Core Voltage - 1.2V Core Amp - 150A (Gaming), 200A (Video) Long Power Limit - 125W Short Power Limit - 195W Turbo Time Limit - 112 secs Currently on a Hyper 212X (with push-pull--though not sure if this helps), and not concern about gaming, it's the video editing (especially on making proxies in Resolve--only Wednesday, Friday and Saturday, so not all day). I think it's time to upgrade to a better air cooler, the H212X is from my i7-6700K. Making proxies (1/2 resolution), it can reach 4.7 GHz (XTU, Task Manager & HwINFO), though the DTS will show that it's reaching 98 C and reaching close to 110W. Yes it's a big OOF; already clipped the current limit and temp limit. I'm a little bit sceptical about about the NH-D12L, is anyone running 10850K or 10900K on that? The reason I'm looking at that is because I can reuse my CM MF120 Halo, also not worrying about clearance. I'm on NZXT Source 530 (the more pedestrian version of the Phantom 530) and all 4 DIMMs populated--low profile. Or it's not enough that I need to opt for larger 140mm cooler, like the MA624 or the NH-D15S? Planned target: Able to get 4.8 GHz and able to reach at least 150W turbo--it's fine, it can reach 95C only during video editing. Other notes: I might switch my top 2x140mm fan from intake to exhaust. There's 1x200mm intake at the front, while the remaining 3 are 140mm, only 1 rear exhaust.
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i have a asus helios case and i want to upgrade my current fan (lianli uni fan sl 140MM) i need help to pick best one between my options 1.Noctua NF-A14 industrialPPC-3000 PWM 2.Noctua NF-A14 industrialPPC-2000 PWM 3.Noctua NF-A14 Chromax.Black.Swap 4.silverstone air penetrator 140i argb helios have front restricted so tell me please one of those fan give me good performance and cool system i want to buy 4 140MM 3 for front intake 1 for exhaust fan. tell me which one is best and why.
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