Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'network switch'.
-
So. Disclaimer. This is not for the weak at heart nor for the hesitant. We will do some soldering. We will do metalwork. We will disassemble a network switch. We will face a unshielded power supply (and won't die). Don't do nothing I'm describing in this post. Everything is done at your own risk. If you die, it's your own fault. Linus warns everybody all the time that power supplies can kill you. With that said, let's carry on. The objective of all of this is to get a fast network switch, ideally a 10GBASE-T with a bunch of SFP+ ports that is QUIET. And I mean, really quiet. This will for sure work for high-density network switches with 50+ POE ports, since we will replace those shitty 40mm fans with some larger fans. ~~~ Why fans in network switch are difficult ~~~ Let's do a little excursion on fans in switches. As you might have tried in the past (especially when reading this), replacing a fan in a managed 19" network switch is... complicated. If the manufacturer is using standard connectors (2, 3 or 4 pin fan connector, commonly referred to as a Molex KK connector, sometimes also called a TX3 connector), you can already feel lucky. Now you just have to figure out the pin out... and find out that switch fans are of a very different breed than their PC cousins. No PWM, no tacho, the third pin is used for... something else. Most of the time it is something called a "dead fan detection" signal, generated from a hall sensor or some other dark magic. Whatever it is, the manufacturer of the switch will decide how it works and they won't tell you. Even if you ask. So if you're trying to use the fan headers on the switch mainboard, you will most likely end up with a fan alert in your switch when you swap out the factory supplied horrible little thingies. But even if you're okay with that, you will now learn that fans used in network switch have a much lower start voltage than their PC counterparts. Actually most PC fans have very defined operating parameters (that's why people have invented PWM, to have a proper way of controlling the fan speed) and expect to be operated at 12V. You CAN somewhat operate them at lower voltages (Noctua is actually supplying resistors to lower the voltage) but nevertheless, they are expected to be operated at specific voltages. Some of them start at 7V, some of them start at 10V. Fans in network switches start at 3-4V and the firmware expects them to behave like that. So your new silent 40mm fans might not even start turning. Or will shut down after the initial power up thing. Noiseblocker-fans are known to work well, but... they only exist in 10mm width and really don't transport a lot of air. You might be very happy with a slow turning 40mm fan in your 24port 1000GBase-T switch, no POE and all that. Because there is no power consumption in there. But if you're using a high-density switch with 48+ ports and POE, there will be heat in that switch. And quite a lot of it. If you're going for 10Gbit/s, you WILL need air movement. Those things get toasty. So? No 40mm fans. So, what to do? Easy, we just dump the entire concept of network fans, drill some holes, take 12V from the main power supply and operate silent 12V fans on top of the switch. Oh. You will void your warranty with that. The switch I chose to do that with is a D-Link DXS-1210-12TC (Revision A1). Which is not new and can be had on Ebay in Europe for around 500€ if you're lucky. Most people get rid of them because they're quite loud. I like D-Link, because their user interface is not totally shitty, I don't have to fiddle around with the CLI and it does what it's supposed to do. If you're a Cisco guy, kudos, but I don't care. The first step is to open up the switch. I will not provide details for that, if you need a recipe on how to open the switch... you should not be doing this and should stop reading here. When we have the switch open in front of us, we will see that the power supply is providing an ample amount of power and all on 12V. We will steal some of that. Disconnect the plug from the power supply and the mainboard. This is rather straight forward with this model (thanks D-Link for using cables with plugs!) but don't touch coils or anything in the open power supply. Don't do this! Any of this! You will die. Don't touch wires. Ever. Okay, with the disconnected cable, cut a red and a black wire and solder another wire in between. I put a molex connector on the end of that wire, because I plan to use an adapter that I can disconnect if I want to open the switch again. It should look like this: Second step is: Drill some holes through the top cover. For the larger holes (air has to go through the top cover), I use hole punches. These are rather expensive but create nice clean holes. However: hole time. Without the holes, no continue. So, put holes in there. We then mount the fans on the top of the switch cover. This will cost us another unit in 19" measures, but if you want to do this (which you don't because you'll die and lose your warranty), just plan accordingly for the cabinet. Most of the time you might have clearance in the top slot to put some hacky stuff like this in there. Last step is creating the adaptor for connecting the outside fan connectors to the power supply within the switch. Basic soldering, watch out for polarity. If you don't know what this means, stop here. I'm using those molex connectors a lot, so I have crimp tools for creating my own wires but you can also salvage connectors from your spare modular power supply box. You know, the cables you keep to use "as spares" but never do because power supply manufacturers change pinout or whatever. Now you have a nice outside-inside connection, on the outside I'm just using the cables provided within the Noctua-boxes. Now you just have to assemble the cover back on the switch. Which is tricky with the SFP connectors. There are some trick on how to get this done, but all of them are just variants of fiddeling around. Maybe get a second switch and practice this before trying this with your new super-main-switch. If you get there, now you have a frankensteined-19"-silenced down switch. I guess I have also a video demonstrating the noise-level of this mod. switch.mp4 The Noctua NF-A8 ULN is rated by the manufacturer for 34,8m³/h, the Y.S.TECH FD124020EB is rated for 17,9m³/h. Three Noctuas, so basically three times the volume moving through that switch with very little noise. And a nice push-pull config, like on those fancy Geforce coolers. Not sure if that does something, but I like it. Thing is fine for my basement without creating too much rage from my wife.
-
network switch Looking for 2.5GB Network Switch Recommendations
NCSGeek posted a topic in Networking
Hello! I'm looking for recommendations for an unmanaged network switch for my specifications and usage case. I'm looking for one to take my one ethernet port/cable from my wall and split it to my PC and a raspberry pi. I'm looking for one that wont affect my ethernet speeds to my main PC (other than affecting it by the amount the raspberry pi is using, which wont be much at all). I'd greatly perfer one that is silent. I'm very sensitive to noise. My PC uses a 2.5GB connection so the switch will need to support that. Other than that, I'm just looking for a cheap but relatively quality unmanaged switch with 3-4 ports (any extra are nice but not worth spending more for to me). So in summary: 2.5GB Speeds input and bandwidth (To not bottleneck my connection to my PC) Unmanaged switch. (I dont need a managed one. If it is managed for the literal same price, then sure I guess) Fanless & Silent 3-4 Ports As cheap as reasonably possible without comprimising on quality or reputation Any recommendations/pointers is very appreciated! I've done some looking and research but as I've never bought networking hardware of this type before, I'd appreciate the opinion of others. -
I've got a strange networking question. My internet is managed by my apartment complex and every device is hard capped at 5mbit which is often just too slow for a lot of things. There is ethernet all over the apartment, is there any way that I could combine multiple inputs to one device to circumvent the speed limits? Like a switch but in reverse. I know it would only give me slightly less slow but still slow internet. This is mostly an academic question. Unless there actually is a non cost prohibitive way to do this.
- 6 replies
-
- networking
- slow internet speed
-
(and 1 more)
Tagged with:
-
Hi all, Looking to do a fan swap on my tl-sg3428xmp as one of the fans is making a weird noise Thought i might as well swap both fans just incase Ive ordered 2x Noctua NF-A4x20 to replace the 2x Runda RS4020B12H Just a bit concerned before i do the swap as they have different pin outs (Image attached) Just checking if it is still safe to go ahead or order replacement runda fans instead
- 3 replies
-
- network switch
- noctua
-
(and 1 more)
Tagged with:
-
So I have a Synology NAS that's connected to a TP-Link TL-SG105 5 port switch. It has two ports to my two laptops and one port for internet from the media panel out in my garage. So the 4th port is for the NAS and I am getting very iffy connections. Do I need to upgrade to a better switch? If so, which one do you folks reco?
-
Between my PC and modem i have a TP Link TL-SG1008D hardware version 5.1. Most of the time I only get about 9Mbit/s on my connection to it. I read that it has "Auto-negotiation ports provide smart integration between 10Mbps, 100Mbps and 1000Mbps hardware." thinking that this is the root of my problem. Seeing how it's not a managed switch I dont know how to fix this. Does anyone have any tips or tricks, or will i just have to bye a new switch that doesn't decide how much speed I get?
-
My internet runs at around 90 to 100 Mbps, my router is downstairs so I ran 2 Cat6 cables with an extension in the middle, connected to a 10/100 network switch that has 2 PCs hooked up to the switch. Is the switch bottlenecking my connection? Or is it the extension bottlenecking? My internet have been terrible...
-
Hi All Im looking for a new network switch, small home office switch needs to have at least 2 10gbs ports sfp+ or rj45 and 16-24 rj45 gigabit ports, doesnt need to have POE as i wont have anything that needs POE. I also dont want a "cloud hosted" switch web or cli only. Options i have looked at, UniFi Switch PRO 24 and Aruba 1930 24 Port Instant On. I already have a Ubiquiti controller so i would just need the switch im open to other options, i have being looking at the Aruba switch listed above but cant seem to find much info or reviews on the the switch and given how cheap it is compaired to the Ubiquiti it has me worried that its too cheap. I no the Aruba access points are cloud managed and you can manage the Aruba switch via web/cli or the cloud i just dont trust at somepoint it will have to be cloud managed. If anyone has used the Aruba switch and can recomment it please let me know, or has another option for a switch fire away. Thanks
-
NorthState ISP plan has me at almost 900mpbs at their modem. That's connected to my Nighthawk router. That in turn is connected to a TPLink gigabit switch which via wall outlet gets to my desktop. That switch has other connections to my security system, NAS etc. Any ideas on how to get more speed towards my desktop? Right now I am on wifi to my desktop (bad move?) and I am over 300MBPS down but ping at 26ms...
- 14 replies
-
- hp omen 30l
- nighthawk mesh
-
(and 2 more)
Tagged with:
-
Given the way the stickers are placed around the inside of the switch, even in places where they do not expect people to see, I would not be surprised if the person who created it believed in some magical "negative ion" effect that would change the audio quality. Likely nothing dangerous, but I would love to know if they are radioactive.
- 9 replies
-
- radioactive
- audiophile
-
(and 3 more)
Tagged with:
-
Hey Crew, Looking to provide surge protection for my ethernet connection to my computer/devices. Does a network switch like the NETGEAR GS305 provide surge protection for the CAT cable itself? If not, what's the best solution for this? Please note, I have little space and less money. Thanks!
- 2 replies
-
- surge protector
- network switch
-
(and 1 more)
Tagged with:
-
So I'm currently using powerline but it became more and more unreliable, so I want to just lay a lan cable through a staircase. I can hide it fairly well it just needs to be black or pretty dark grey and about roughly 25m long. The idea is that the lan cable goes from the router (FritzBox 6591 Cable) through the staircase up to a small switch from wich I'd plug in my existing cable laying it under the door. However I don't know what is good choice for this use case. (Going beyond one gigabit wouldn't make sense.) What would be a good choice for a cable or does this actually matter at all? I intended to power the switch via POE but the router does not support that. Are there devices that can "add" this without adding latency? What is a good choice for small decent switch? What would that approximately cost me? Any help, Ideas or remarks are appreciated. ^^
- 4 replies
-
- power over ethernet
- network switch
-
(and 4 more)
Tagged with:
-
Hey guys, I'm trying to set up a proper ethernet setup in my house, and I have a concern about the switch I'm using. For context, the system runs like the quick diagram I attached. The attic that the main switch is in can regularly get up to 110-125 Fahrenheit during the North Carolina summer, and I've noticed on all the network switches I look at, they all have operating temperatures listed. How important are those numbers, and if the one I'm dealing with are too high, what are my options? Thanks, Wallace
- 2 replies
-
- network switch
- network switches
- (and 4 more)
-
So recently I installed a TP-Link deco M5 mesh network. However there is a small issue. On each one there is 2 Ethernet ports. And on the main one that is in charge of the internet has one slot used to bring internet in and gives internet for the other 2 meshes. And that only has 1 slot open which I am using. However in the future I might need to connect more devices with Ethernet but I don’t have another slot on the main one. So if I connected a unmanaged switch into the main mesh and I plugged in multiple devices in that unmanaged switch. Would the main mesh be able to see all the Ethernet devices that are plugged into that unmanaged switch or would only the unmanaged switch be able to see those devices? Example: I connect a Xbox into the unmanaged switch, then would the mesh be able to do port forwarding or a DMZ for the Xbox? Also yes I know that the devices would have to share the 1gbps that are on the unmanaged switch but that’s not a issue for me.
- 2 replies
-
- network switch
- mesh
-
(and 1 more)
Tagged with:
-
Apologies that this is kinda long-winded, but I've attempted to cut out the fat while also giving as many details as possible, hoping there's some clues in there for those of you that are far more privy to networking than i am. Thank you in advance for reading this, should you choose to. I had Spectrum internet 200 Mbps Cat8 from my router into my room, connected to this network switch Bought two 3-feet Cat8 to go from switch to my PS4 and my first ever PC (built last week after watching a lot of LTT) Consistently ~230 Mbps download speeds on both PS4 and PC Wireless speed tests on all devices never reached above 50 Mbps Called Spectrum, upgraded to 400 Mbps Still worked flawlessly via hardwire on PS4, averaging about 300-350 Mbps, and the PC pushing 480 Mbps wifi still horrendous Called Spectrum, they come and replace the both the Modem and the Router BAM! First time I've ever had 430+ Mbps wifi on my phone/laptop/wifi. They almost feel like new devices. Now, I'm browsing the internet on my wired PC and I have Twitch up, watching a friend stream. He keeps buffering, skipping, and then eventually I get a black screen network error (#2000) and a decoding error (#3000). I refresh, nothing, I try other streamers and I get the same errors. I google these two errors and I follow every instruction on how to clear these; clear cache disable hardware acceleration and I tried the Twitch PC app, Firefox, and Explorer -- same deal. This only started happening after the router and modem were swapped. I thought, "Whatever, Twitch is just being weird" and booted up my PS4 to play some Apex Legends with some friends. We successfully play one match, and back out to the lobby. I appear to be the only one readied up, so I'm just I'm just waiting there talking with my friends and they go, "Hey Chris, where'd you go?" Uhh, I'm in the lobby waiting for you to ready up? "We're already in the game..." They join my party and I disappear, I join them and they connect to the match and I don't, etc. Really weird. I uninstall, and begin to download...and it gives me an ETA of 6 hours for this 40 GB file. It took me an hour to download the 100 GB Warzone application when I was on 200 Mbps download speeds a month prior... Call Spectrum I explain the buffering on Twitch via Chrome, Firefox and the app on my PC and two laptops on WiFi, the horrendous wired download speeds on PS4, and how this all started after the modem and router were replaced. They reset the connection to the modem and router, and that fixes nothing. In fact, the download speeds are now back to 200-230 Mbps. Spectrum tells me to give it time... Work the next day (this morning) Speed tests on my work computer are still 200 Mbps Call Spectrum They reset everything yet again, and we finally get the speed back up to 430+ Mbps Skype meeting for work Screen share I'm watching is pixelated, buffering a ton, and I am thrown out of the call several times. Throughout the day, dozens of times per hour, my Skype disconnects and reconnects, prompting my manager to ask "Are you having internet issues?" Fuck yeah I am I'm missing Skype messages through the desktop app and half of them are coming through via WiFi on the Skype app on my phone instead. I test out Apex again, and the same deal as the night before. I start testing hardware: New Cat6 cable from PS4 to same port in Switch: issues persist Speed test my girlfriend's PC -- Cat6 into different port on the switch: 480 Mbps Use that Cat6 and plug into my PS4: anywhere between 7 Mbps up to 70 Mbps Speed test my PC, Cat8: 480 Mbps Swap the PC Cat8 into the PS4: 2 out of 10 tests gave me 300+ Mbps, the rest sub 50 Mbps Swap the PS4 Cat8 into the PC: 480 MBps So at this point I think I've eliminated the issue being the network switch and the cables, as any combination of cables and switch ports didn't help the PS4. Wifi on this PS4 was anywhere between 6 Kbps and 30 Mbps. Wifi on different PS4 in a different room (further from router): consistently in the 200-300 Mbps range This different PS4 hardwired directly into the router: consistently in the 300 Mbps range. This different PS4 wired into switch using Cat8 in multiple ports: 7-70 Mbps This next bit makes me think this is a switch issue: PS4 with issues wired directly into the router: consistently 300-380 Mbps speeds... However, I'm not certain this is a speed issue: Even if my speed is between the 7-70 Mbps speeds while wired, I shouldn't be having the connectivity issues I am having, right? My wired work computer was still clocking speeds of 480 Mbps while also giving me connectivity issues with Skype and my work VPN Speeds of 480 Mbps still give Twitch buffering/error code issues on PC/work laptop/personal laptop I sat on hold for nearly 2 hours with Spectrum tonight, and another hour on the phone troubleshooting. They reset everything again, which again caused the speeds to reset to 200 Mbps...and then they fixed that yet again and they're back to 400+. I've ordered a new gigabit network switch, even though I'm not 100% certain that's the issue. Right now I'm pointing at the new Modem and Router as the culprits, since these issues arose immediately after they were installed, yet Spectrum says everything is connected and testing A-OK on their end. Any insight or advice appreciated, as I feel like I'm all out of options and not only is this affecting my gaming/entertainment, it's now affecting my ability to work from home... Speed test on this PC taken right before posting, just for fun:
-
Alright dudes and dudettes, so here's the deal. One of my next projects is to run Cat6a lines throughout my house. I'm still working with my ISPs provided modem, which will be switched out soon pending my choice in Modem/router combo. I'm throwing in a network switch beyond that to support all the hard lines going to guest rooms and the such. My question is, being that eventually I'll have fiber run in my neighborhood (possibly soon), I need a modem that will push 'dat Gb', so I've been looking at a couple different models of Netgear's Nighthawk series. Without pulling the trigger on any particular one, I wanted to ask you Networking bubbas what might be my best option. Budget is maxing at $300, which I'm guessing based on what I've been researching can nab just about anything. As well, from Linus' recent video on the ASUS XG-U2008 mini-switch, I'm looking into picking one of those up, or something with similar capabilities so I don't have to worry about future expansion. Thanks everyone, ~ Gali
-
Hello, I have some questions about networking and using hdmi 2.0 over ethernet (cat 6a or cat7). I want to have all my devices (Sky+ box, PS4 Pro, Xbox one S and Apple TV) all connected to the network switch so in theory we would be able to watch the same TV show in the lounge; the master bedroom and the kitchen but having the ability for one person be able to switch to the PS4 independently. If possible i’d like to do this with 4k signals rather then just 1080p. This is for our newly built house, we want almost every room to have internet over Ethernet. In the TV rooms we plan to have Ethernet to hdmi converters which terminate in the wall. Every cable will be ran Independently and connect to a netgear switch. This is the list of products we will be using: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00H2ETA1M?ref=emc_b_5_t https://www.amazon.co.uk/Duronic-CAT6a-Professional-Shielded-Network/dp/B003CL71II/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1484256177&sr=8-3&keywords=cat6a+cable
- 13 replies
-
- hdmi
- network switch
- (and 4 more)
-
I have a problem here....I have several devices to connect using wired LAN like TV, 2 Desktops, PS4 and maybe even more devices in the future. 1) Currently I am looking to upgrade my current router (Asus RT-AC56S) but I am having a dilemma on whether I should go for gigabit network switch (TP Link 8-port Gigabit smart switch) with a 4 port Asus Tri-band RT-AC5300 (S$49+S$459) or a 8-port router Asus ROG Rapture GT-AC5300 ($559). 2) If I were to connect 4 to 6 devices at a go will the speed be affected? assuming all connected devices are being used simultaneously. I have a 1Gbps plan with my local service provider, so will that 1Gbps be divided into that 4 to 6 devices or all devices will run at 1Gbps. 3) If I choose to get the cheaper router with the network switch, my guess is to connect the network switch to the router? And can I have more than 1 network switch one to be position in the livingroom and another in the studyroom? Sorry if I asked too much, tech newbie here.
-
Hi There, Does any of you have any good ideas on a budget network switch. when i mean cheap i mean cheap. under £50 or $50 (£ is better) It has to be rack mounted otherwise i hope i here from you. thanks, vincent
-
I am setting up a server to run in my garage, but whenever I plug it into the modem there, I can't get online. The server is running windows server 2012 r2, and it seems to think that the Ethernet "doesn't have a valid IP Configuration." However, I have run through all the troubleshooting steps for that error and it doesn't seem to be the issue. Most of the devices in my home are connected to a wireless router in another part of the house that is connected to that same modem. When I connected the server to that router, it was able to get online just fine. I went back to the garage and tried to connect a laptop, but that didn't work either. Next, I tried plugging in a spare router into the modem, then plugging that into the server, and that didn't seem to work either. I also tried connecting it to the modem via a network switch, and then both the router and the network switch, but neither of those worked. To make sure I wasn't going crazy, I reinstalled windows and tried all the same things with the laptop but that didn't work either. I think it may have something to do with my modem and possibly the ISP, but they have really crappy customer service so I would like to avoid getting involved with them as long as possible because it won't go anywhere.
-
I bought a dell force10 S60, because I was looking for a relatively cheap, yet good, gigabit switch, and I got this on an auction for $20 on ebay. My only issue with it is the noise, which isn't really too bad, but it would be really nice if I could get noctua fans to work with this, and I was curious if anyone has any experience changing them out, or if they know if it will work or not. This is actually the second one that I had, I bricked the first one trying to factory reset it, and now I don't get anything on the CLI. I took apart one of the power supplies on that, and replaced one of the fans with the fan from my old HP 100 megabit switch, and it didn't like that. I don't know if it just didn't like the power supply, because they are different models, the new one is the black one with the Dell logo, and the old one is gray with the force10 logo. I'd hate to blow $90 on fans if they aren't going to work, then pay shipping to return them. Thanks
-
I made a topic a couple of days ago called "Networking in University" but I am making a new one because I am pretty sure what I have to do and it doesn't relate that much to that topic anymore... So I currently live on campus on a Univerity and the Uni uses 802.1x authentication for its devices, but I have some devices that I would like to connect to the internet but that dont support 802.1x authentication... What I want to do is create an entirely new private network for me where I use my computer as a router... My PC already has access to the internet, so I wanted to use my wifi card to make so I can connect devices to the internet through my PC and also connect them through ethernet if possible. Is this a thing I can do and does anyone know where I should start?
- 4 replies
-
- networking
- 802.1x
-
(and 2 more)
Tagged with:
-
I have purchased this switch for my new home network. What Storage servers would work well with the 10GB Fiber link? Max Budget $500 including storage. I don't know very much about servers, but I think I will run Free NAS or some other type of free software.
-
Hey everyone, I just got a new room above the garage, my room is huge, which is great, there is only one small problem, my wireless internet is utter garbage... I do however have access to 1 ethernet port/cable which is connected to my router directly, I did a speed test over ethernet and got 500 Mb/s downloads and 50 Mb/s upload, so my ethernet is fast. Now what I want to achieve is to turn this 1 ethernet cable into a wireless access point, and still have ethernet passthrough so I can still have an ethernet cable in my desktop PC. So my question is, what do I need? Do I need an access point, a network switch? Please tell me what kind of product I need and could you also recommend one? Thank you all in advance!
- 15 replies
-
- wifi
- access point
-
(and 3 more)
Tagged with:
-
Well hello guys , It anirudh here , i wanted to get a nas for storing my video files that are suddenly now 8 TB and increasing , i consume data at the rate of 2 TB a year. Hence i decided its time to get a solution that is safe for larger scale use . And so i wanted to go with a qnap ts 453bt3 but because of the price and the fact that shipping to india makes it totally unaffordable to me . I decided to get a qnap ts 451a. Now few things that i am not so sure about is wheather qnap ts 451a suppprts link aggregation that i baddly need to acheive higher speeds andif it does what dual gigabit nic should i buy that can make the computer ethernet connection to run at 2 gigabit. For those of you that don't get what i am saying i drew a schematic diagram to understand it better . And there are link to all the items that i am under the impression will help me succed in getting a 2 gigabit network speed.of course i have a gigabit botherboard and i5 7400 with 16gb ram. With inbuilt gigabit ethernet.
-
- link aggregation
- qnap nas
- (and 3 more)