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A topic that I've seen come up that I've had to address, an understandable misinterpretation, is that higher temperatures of components mean more heat into your room. This is far enough removed from a proper understanding of thermodynamics enough for me to make a post I can reference back to as a detailed explanation of why. TLDR: The primary controlling variable for energy/heat into your room from your computer is its power consumption. More energy in = more energy out. The variable that controls this is energy in, which is compensated for by either changing fan speeds or allowing the difference in temperature of the components and your environment to change. Higher temperatures under load are simply the way a heat source compensates for an insufficient proportional increase in the other variables, like airflow or heat capacity/surface area/heat transfer coefficients, etc. What can you do to change this? Lower your power consumption. A way to mitigate its effect to the user can also be to transport that heat more effectively away from the user (shoutout to whole room watercooling, RIP). Now to show this qualitatively with some simple equations and definitions to understand: Temperature- the average random molecular kinetic energy of a substance. This is a localized approximation of kinetic energy by its nature and not indicative of kinetic energy of a whole system. A fundamentally important thing to understand is that computers are practically space heaters, where most of the electrical energy into a computer is converted to waste heat. BTU/hr being proportional to Watts (3.41 conversion) since Watts are just Joules/sec. dT (difference in temperature) can be defined as (Tsource – Tsink), being the difference in temperature between the heat source and heatsink (CPU and your room, as examples). Heat transfer cannot occur without a difference in temperature. If dT is 0, then no heat transfer is occurring between those materials. The higher the difference, the more heat transfer can occur. This is why allowing your temperatures to go up at a lower fan speed can reach an equilibrium, Tsource will keep going up until it does or it throttles back power consumption, therefore reducing the heat transfer requirement. More unit definition/clarifications: 'U,A' in the top equation being complex variables, since it’ll include the heat transfer coefficient of every layer or be an average across multiple layers, where this in some equations is defined as the ‘material constant’ since its largely dependent on material properties and are relatively constant. The simplest explanation of these variables is they’re proportional to your heat sink, like a 120mm AIO versus an NH-D15, where an NH-D15 will have a higher UA. A way of visualizing this is with a cross section of heat transfer layers of a microprocessor. Notice how we’re already at 3 layers of materials without adding thermal paste or the heat sink, which the heatsink will have multiple layers between it alone. Each of these materials will have their own U (heat transfer coefficient), where generally you’re most limited by the number of layers and the lowest heat transfer coefficient. The overall value of these heat transfer coefficients when factoring in their thickness and individual heat transfer coefficients will determine U. This is the major reason why 3D v-cache operates so hot and requires lower maximums, since the extra copper and cache layers require a proportionally lower temperature at the point of measurement to maintain a safe die temperature. 'A' (cross sectional area) is the third dimension of the heat transfer profile, being the contactable surface area to transfer heat from a heat source to a heat sink. Things like Heat Flux come into play with this value, but its outside the scope of this discussion. Now finally to the second equation… 'M' (mass flow rate) is the volumetric flow of the fluid (whether that’s water or air) that’s acting as the heat transfer medium. This would be the fluid in a CPU AIO or the fluid in the heatpipes of a tower cooler, and then again for the air that the fans move across the radiator or heatsink fins. 'C' (specific heat capacity) is practically speaking a measurement of density, where it’s the amount of energy per mass per degree a material can absorb. The higher this value, the more energy that material can absorb without changing temperature independently of its total mass. This is a material property, water having one of the highest, especially as a relatively safe heat transfer medium. A quantifiable measurement for this being that water can absorb ~4.5x more energy than aluminum of the same mass per degree change of temperature. Done with explaining the equations, now for some actual qualitative analysis. This involves assuming static quantities for certain variables to create proportions between either the one's on topic or to demonstrate a relationship between those variables. In this case, we'll look at Q, M, and Tsource: Take the equations and strip them down to a proportion between Q (heat transfer rate), dT (difference in heatsink to heatsource) and M (mass flow rate)these are the variables we can control in our computer. The rest we can assume to be relatively constant for the purposes of this discussion. Even within dT, we can assume that Tsink is relatively constant, since this would ultimately be the temperature of your room/environment. Mass flow rate is practically speaking the speed of your fans, and we’ll eliminate the variable of a watercooling pump and its speed from this to make it simpler. This leaves specifically Q (power consumption of the PC, Tsource (component temperature like CPU/GPU), and M (speed of cooling fans). While your computer is ‘idle’ in a relatively low power state, lets say 50W, this would require less Q (heat transfer rate) since there’s less heat being generated per second (Watts), therefore the Tsource (your CPU/GPU) doesn’t have to be as high to remove said heat, creating a proportionally lower dT (assuming constant fan speed). While your computer is under load, lets say 500W, the heat transfer rate will go up, requiring one of the equation’s variables to go up proportionally. This requires a change to either dT or M (mass flow rate), usually both. This results in a higher Tsource to create a higher dT and higher fan speeds to increase the mass flow rate, since its unlikely one would be able to compensate for 10x the amount of heat simply through an increase in dT (while maintaining operating limitations like 105C). Some caveats: Yes, a silicon semiconductor at a lower temperature will therefore have a lower resistance therefore being more efficient, but that’s an insignificant contribution to overall power consumption in the operating range of computers. The average power consumption, heat soak characteristics, and overall heat capacity of a computer does contribute. This is applicable to full eATX towers versus SFX systems, where a 500W draw SFX system will take far less time to heat soak than an eATX system which might have 2x the steel/aluminum and 10x the internal air volume. This will affect the time it takes for the whole system to reach equilibrium. Anyone else with knowledge of thermodynamics who would like to contribute to this discussion or if you find anything I can improve, I’ll edit the OP accordingly with citation. Feel free to ask questions and for clarifications, and I'll try as best as I can to not require a whole essay to explain. Most of the information I would need to reference would be in OP. An analogy for this using fluid dynamics is to take a tank of water with an inlet and outlet. If the flow into the tank exceeds the flow out of the tank, then the tank level will rise. However, the tank level might rise high enough for it to increase the head pressure on the outlet, therefore increasing the outlet flow, which may match the inlet flow rate once the tank reaches a certain level creating an equilibrium. Water in this analogy is equal to kinetic energy, where the inlet flow are the components generating heat, flow out being the heat transfer out via fans and the tank volume being the overall heat capacity of the system which includes the air inside, heatsinks, etc. Temperature would operate similarly to head pressure and therefore tank level. In this analogy as well, if there's no outlet, then the tank will overflow or become pressurized, just like a computer in a sealed environment will eventually shutdown because it'll overheat, regardless of how much it tries to thermal throttle with no energy out. So if there's energy going in, then there must be energy going out equal to what's going in, otherwise the kinetic energy will continue to rise. To full circle the analogy, neglecting water's surface tension, the tank would be perforated and slowly leaking water, just like how anything with a higher temperature than its surroundings would slowly leak energy to its surroundings and eventually reach equilibrium unless it has an active energy input. To flesh the analogy out more, my 'mythbusting' is that tank level = flow out of the tank; which isn't true, since its not considering flow in and volume of the tank. To put the importance of the tank's volume into perspective, a 1" diameter tube with 5" height of water creates the same head pressure as a 5 gallon drum with 5" height of water, just like how a GT1030 at 75W can operate at the same temperature as a RTX 4090 at 600W. They're both creating the same dT, but at drastically different wattages/volume.
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Hi ! So as seeing as much ignorance on this forum is bleach worthy, I will demisitfy something for you today *Mindblown*. It's the 3 and 4 way sli pascal myth. Because YES, you can use that in game, Wonder how? Well, with that : It's basically tricking the gpu that you are in a benchmark (Catzilla I think in this video) through Nvidia Inspector. Really easy to do and take only one minute. Scaling is really great on games as shown there : And also : So that was all for me, hope you learned something new today
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The 2gb ram laptop myth. This is a very common myth that is floating around the internet, which makes me very angry because this is NOT true!!! The myth goes that it is impossible to use a laptop with 2gb of ram, while using chrome and Microsoft office, i will disprove this. I have a 2gb ram laptop myself and i can assure you that all of this is possible without any problems. I can use 10-20 chrome tabs while using Word and still only using 1,8gb of ram on Windows 10. This was measured with different programs. The computer worked with out any problems, as usual. I have also run a cinebench r15 test too see how much ram it will use, it only used 1,8gb maximum. So in conclusion, a laptop is very capable off performing well with only 2gb of ram, and no one should ever repeat the common myth "2gb ram is impossible to use". It is a big lie and only proves that most off the people on the internet are stupid and should not be believed. Please stop this and stop all other information that you are telling to people that you have no glue off. Do not copy paste what others are saying, make your own research. Please fell free to comment on this and try to disprove me. EDIT: There has been a lot off misinformation on this, i am not saying that 2gb is all you need, im just profing the point that 2gb is more than able too perform well. This was not understood by everyone, and some started arguing that more is better, but that is not the point of this argument, please post content about 2gb ram , and not if more is better. EDIT: Here is my prove of glueless people and missinformation: I found a thread on this forum were some people said that you need 8gb of ram minimum or 4 gb as absolute minimum, which is not true.
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!!THE THERMAL TESTS ARE DOWN BELOW THE PICTURES!! The XFX r9 290 is a really beautiful card, but the fact that the heat sink isn't nickel plated and you can see the raw copper heat pipes drove me nuts. That’s why I just had to do something about it. So due to my white "case" I decided to paint it white. I used a normal matt white nitrocellulose spray can. I choose nitrocellulose spray because I hope if I ever want to get rid of the paint that I just have to lay it in a nitrous bath to dissolve it. Sadly the paint job didn't turn out perfect. I used an air compressor to dust off the heat sink, but apparently there was still dust on it, so I had to pick the dust particles, which were lying across the fins, with a fine pair of tweezers (worked astoundingly well). Final results: Heat sink before I picked the dust with tweezers: After I picked the dust: Back in my rig. The white is not as bright as in the picture in real life: Thermal test: I read in a forum that painting your heat sink black would make it way more efficient because of the effect of heat radiation. If that is true it would mean painting your heat sink white would make it way worse! I didn’t believe it for a couple of reasons. White has a heat reflection coefficient of 1 and an absorption coefficient of 0, which means that a perfect white would reflect all radiation heat it encounters, so it should make the heat dissipation via radiation on the cooler a lot worse. BUT this also means that all the radiation heat from other components gets reflected and could mean lower temperatures. Black has a reflection coefficient of 0 but an absorption coefficient of 1, which means, it can exchange heat via radiation a lot better but also absorbs a Lot more heat. In reality a the heat sink of a single GPU set up doesn't get a lot radiation from other components, but most importantly a heat sink is designed to exchange heat via convection and just a fraction is exchanged via radiation. My Test: I set my GPU fan speed in both tests to a static 50% and let it run valley for half an hour. My card was not overclocked and ran factory settings. 1 test with normal heat sink I got an average of 79 °C: 2 test with painted heat sink I got an average of 89°C: I was really shocked by the massive 10°C difference and started believing the myth, so I tried remounting the cooling unit, but same result (I used stock thermal paste in the first test and Noctua NT-H1 in the second). So what caused the increase in temperature? I am not entirely sure. I was so stupid and did just do one test, with only one fan speed, on the stock card and forgot to change the thermal paste which could make a difference as well. If I would have made several tests with multiple fan speeds I could discern how big of a role heat radiation is playing in the heat exchange process. Also a factor for the heat increase could be the added layer of paint. Before the heat can get carried away from the air it has to go through the layer of paint, instead of getting carried away from the aluminum instantly. The paint is a plastic which has a very low heat conduction coefficient and acts like heat isolator (plastics such as paint have a λ between 0.17 and 0.24 W/(m · K), pure aluminum λ of 236 W/(m · K) ). This applies for paint in general not only white paint. Conclusion: My conclusion is that it has to be a combination between the radiation and the bad heat conduction, because I just can't believe that a 10°C could come from heat radiation only. Does this mean painting your heat sink black makes your GPU/CPU run cooler? Maybe! Even if my results might make you believe so, I honestly can’t tell from this test, because I can’t discern what made my GPU run hotter. It could go either way, dependent on the benefit of radiation outperforming the disadvantage of the heat conduction To Note: My results are not reputable at all, I did do too less runs and had too much variant between the runs, like the thermal paste, but I am very hooked now. I really would like to get some CPU air coolers and test this again with white, black painted and white, black anodized (to remove the isolation effect) and with different fan speeds to really get some nice results. If I find a cheap way to do it, you will definitely hear from me again Please post your comments and criticism down below
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Hey guys, So i had a particular facebook friend who was spewing all kinds of nonsense related to PC gaming myths. I made a status to point him to read, hoping to settle his misconceptions. Can you guys possibly read and give your thoughts?https://www.facebook.com/asbrisco/posts/928783783803510 Thanks again! May your temps be low, and framerates high. UPDATE: Sorry guys, I literally just put up the FB status, so it might not work yet. Here's the content: ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Okay, i've been hearing this debate for way too long now about gaming on PC and consoles, along with constant misconceptions related to all gaming platforms. I'm going to knock out the common myths here and now. If you game, and you are interested in this, please continue reading. If not, go about your merry way. I'm not trying to hold a bias towards PC, but these misconceptions need to be addressed. 1) PC GAMING IS EXPENSIVE: Inherently not true. While yes, you can pay a pretty penny to build a kick-ass computer, you can build a PC for the same price of a PS4 or XB-ONE, and easily outperform both. Not to mention that digital distributors like STEAM will sell modern big titles for a fraction of the cost compared to console disk prices. My steam game library (over 100 games) is worth over $1500, but I paid no more than $450 over the span of a few years due to steam sales. 2) PC GAMERS ARE ELITISTS: A common misconception is that people who game on PC hate consoles, and brag about superior resolutions and framerates. Yes, PC games have a better visual experience, with unlocked graphics settings so you can tune graphics or crank them up based on how beefy your hardware is; but consoles have benefits as well. I know plenty of people that play a little bit of everything. 3) CONSOLES ARE EASIER TO PLAY ON: Absolutely. PCs can require maintenance, as well as a learning curve on how to build and properly care for your system. A dedicated gaming console removes most of those headaches and cater to the 'just pick-up and play' mentality. However, both consoles and PCs are prone to hardware failure, because that's just how technology is. 4) FRAMERATES DON'T MATTER/ YOU CAN'T SEE PAST 30 FRAMES PER SECOND: Not true. For those who don't know; FPS or Frames Per Second, is how many images are displayed on screen in the span of a second. The human eye does not see in framerates. There's just a constant flow of information. Higher framerates in games is a simply smoother experience. Consoles (due to limited and unchangeable hardware) often play games at 30 FPS, and seldom 60 FPS. Try this link: 30vs60.com and see the differrence. Higher is better, that's just fact. 5) CONSOLES PROVIDE BETTER MEDIA EXPERIENCES AND PROMOTE INTERACTION WITH FRIENDS: Just like XBox LIVE Party, PC gamers can chat with friends as well, with even more online chat experiences. Theres Steam friend chat, Skype, Google Hangouts, teamspeak, Voovoo, TinyChat, C3, RazerCOMMS, ETC. And all the media apps on console like Netflix and HULU? Those were on PC long before gaming consoles. Consoles are just easier to use. 6) CONSOLES HAVE EXCLUSIVE GAMES, WHILE PC DOES NOT: Not true. I love playing Halo and super smash brothers, but PC has plenty of games that consoles may or may not ever have. here's a list of pc exclusives: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_PC-exclusive_games 7) YOU CAN'T SIT ON A COUCH AND GAME ON PC ON A BIG TV WITH A CONSOLE CONTROLLER. False. plug your computer into a tv like you would a monitor, and BAM, you can play on a big screen. Plug a controller into a USB port on your PC, and almost all games support a controller. 8) YOU CANT GAME LOCALLY WITH FRIENDS ON PC: Also false. There's plenty of games that are very fun to play four player split screen on a tv, just like a console. My favorite example of this is Broforce. Look up that game, it's super fun. And PC exclusive (that's solving myths 6, 7 and 8 at the same time!) 9) PCS CONSTANTLY NEED UPRGADES TO PLAY MODERN GAMES: Nope. A solid build with the right parts with last for a LONG time. A computer with 8 year old parts will still run every game. Not to mention the fact that when new consoles release, the old consoles usually stop getting support or new games, although the xbox 360 and xbox one are a different case, same as the sony consoles' ps3 and ps4. 10) BUILDING A PC IS HARD: New learners might have a tough time at first, but it's really as simple as following directions and doing your research. Theres thousands of tutorials to build a PC, and videos to give you the know- how to make you look like the family tech smarty pants. If you want to learn, go to LinusTechTips here: http://www.youtube.com/channel/UCXuqSBlHAE6Xw-yeJA0Tunw Linus is awesome, and I learned EVERYTHING from his videos. That wraps it up, guys. If you read thus far, I wanna say thanks. I hope this was educational and enlightening. Lemme know in the comments if you want to learn more. May your temperatures stay low, and your framerates high.
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As some of you know, there was a myth awhile ago that cards like the GTX 770 or 760 that came in 4GB variations can't use all of its VRAM because the memory bus was too small. Of course, this rumour was said to be wrong, as it CAN use over 3GB. This was proven awhile ago. The following is just evidence to support that fact, as within less than a minute of running modded mc I managed to use 3.9/4GB. (I hit 3.6GB on Just one screen >.>) The Benchmark itself: Modded minecraft with shader mods + 512x Texture pack, at near-surround resolution. I had to use a secondary game just to get an onscreen display of all my data, but the game was idling at very low GPU and VRAM usage. Doesn't effect numbers. Of course, this won't be true for ALL games, but it can utilize all of it if it needs to =D Yes you could say this was already pretty obvious, just wanted to show it =D
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I have heard many people talk about this so called 'outside'. Has anyone ever been there? I heard it's a land of fantasies.
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I've kinda wondered what is the origin/ reason for people to say "never do your first boot with a side panel on ots bad luck" I thought this would be a great place to ask if you guys had ever had a system that might have failed to this superstition?
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Hello there, I have just purchased some Astro A40s without the mixamp, I have been told that a soundcard will drastically improve sound quality. Is this the case, or is this just another pc myth?