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Hi all, I really hope I can get some help with this issue. It's a ramble explaining the whole timeline of this system (the last month) but theres context that may be useful to potentially diagnosing this thing.. I've tried to condense it here but I am so so tired right now, have spent 24 hours of the last 2 days trying to get this working 100% and this is all on a system that was running perfectly like 3 days ago. Right now my to-do list is test with my known good old psu, and failing that a new CPU and motherboard? I should be able to get a refund for the board but the cpu will be a harder task. TLDR: Stuck on red and yellow cpu and dram error lights and cannot POST on a system that was hard to get to boot when first assembled and required a new ram kit to boot and use. Switched to beta bios on advice of a comment and old ram worked, then I unwittingly formatted my old drive with my old windows install on it (i had previously booted this system with it as my primary drive but then moved it to slot 2 and fresh installed on a new drive in slot 1, windows in its wisdom decided i only needed a bootloader on my D drive even though both were installed when I did the clean install on the new drive). Following that I attempted a bios update and could boot into the bios but saw no boot manager. Tried to run a windows install usb in this state, multiple BSODS, now won't POST even after extensive troubleshooting, and I'm insanely frustrated because I feel like all my parts are known good whilst also being potentially what's failing or at least causing the system not to advance to post. Parts used: R7 7800X3D - bought open box from ebay, potentially sus? MSI B650 TOMAHAWK WIFI - bought new on amazon 32GB Corsair Vengeance DDR5-6000 (CMK32GX5M2B6000Z30) - bought new on amazon 64GB G.Skill Z5 neo DDR5-6000 (F5-6000J3040G32GX2-TZ5N) - bought on ebay sealed MSI ventus RTX 4080 - bought used but hasn't had any issues in 2 completely different systems 3 2TB M.2 SSDs, 970evo plus (old windows install 1), crucial something (new windows install), and og sabrent rocket, all known good Thermaltake GF3 1000W - bought brand new from scan Summary of issues timeline Part 1 Assembled build with G.Skill RAM, encountering solid red or red and yellow LED error indicators on the MSI B650 TOMAHAWK WIFI motherboard. Able to get into bios once but after enabling expo, will not boot into the bios again. Tried BIOS update, CPU reseating and booting without RAM. No success. Got new Corsair RAM kit, successfully boots on first try; I confirm the BIOS did update to the latest version. Try the G.Skill RAM again, same issues Return to Corsair RAM, used pc without problems for approximately two to three weeks. (At this point, I was using a single drive, the old c drive from my previous machine (samsung 970 evo plus 2tb). I had been meaning to do a clean install with the new crucial ssd I got but it took me a bit to get to, with all the ram headaches etc Installed Crucial SSD, into m.2 slot 1, shifted the samsung ssd with my old windows install to the 2nd slot, and successfully install Windows 10 onto the new Crucial SSD. Remembered I wanted to run that G.skill ram and thought it may work now that I could boot into windows, and found a comment saying to try an older beta BIOS version (7D75v172) from June 2023; resolves all issues with the G.skill kit and I can boot it with expo enabled or with a custom overclock. Part 2 Encountered weird booting phenomenon with Windows, I prompted to choose between two Windows installations upon boot (sometimes this would happen within the blue windows UI you get when you restart to boot into recovery or whatever, sometimes this would happen in a white text on black environment, not sure if that was also windows or that was the motherboard's own boot management?. I've upgraded my C Drive to a new one and moved my old drive to a different slot a couple of times before but hadn't faced this issue and wasn't sure what to do. I kept using the system as it was for a few days and it was completely stable aside from this issue. I did not run super thorough stress tests at the time but I did about 25-30 runs of a few of the 3DMark benchmarks, as well as 3 stress tests (also thru 3dmark). Used Testmem5 for about 30 mins with no issue but obviously not the largest sample. Created a fresh Windows install usb, got BSODs three times about a minute-2 minutes into the install. Frustrated, I format the entirety of my drive containing my old windows install thru cmd, and as I didn't realise at the time, the ONLY windows bootloader/manager despite having installed windows on 2 disks. Once I realized the drive contained both old Windows install and the only bootloader, I booted and was able to get to the BIOS with all hardware detected, but no bootable drives detected at this point. Updated BIOS to latest version attempt to resolve issue. System fails to POST after BIOS update, solid yellow and red lights on motherboard with no display output. (CPU and DRAM errors iirc) Tried many BIOS updates (I have tried four or five different bioses, all of them show the normal behaviour when attempting to flash a bios through the usb flashback system but instead of eventually rebooting into the bios, the white light would just blink indefinitely, with the red and yellow error LEDs) (to be clear, every bios update I did up to this point used this method, and I used the same usb drive every time.), Tried clearing the cmos multiple times, Tried creating a livecd and seeing if it would autoboot to that, Tried reseating the CPU twice, tried with no ram, one stick, and two sticks of either kit. Tried with no gpu, tried with displayport plugged into motherboard, tried with no ssds, the old windows ssd only, my new crucial ssd with my new install on it only, and with all 3 ssds. Verified connections to the 24 pin, cpu power, gpu power etc were all secure. Unplugged all USB devices. Made sure monitor was not in sleep mode for any of the boot attempts. PC is now currently completely unable to post, and I get a solid red and yellow persistent error LED. Have let it sit like this for a while multiple times, no result. Given that I've used this system successfully, albeit with quirks, I am really at a loss.. The only thing I can think of is that the CPU is very slightly damaged in a way that causes erratic behaviour with certain bioses/ram, or that the psu is somehow faulty, although I have used this PSU from the start of the build and I've had no observable issues with it, and it's plenty of power for my system. No magic smoke, no fuses tripped etc. Any help is genuinely appreciated. Pastebin with my full ramble, may have missed something. Also, I was not aware of just how much people experience am5 compatibility issues with ddr5, so if I did something wrong there it's simply because I hadn't followed am5 hardware closely, being on an am4 build for many years.
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Hi everybody, I have recently done some upgrades on my old gaming system. I have upgraded my CPU from a AMD Ryzen 5 2600 to a Ryzen 7 5700x and my ram from 16gb to a 32gb kit. I have upgraded from a WD blue SN550 1tb NVMe to a WD black SN850x 1tb NVMe drive. My plan was to reuse the old SN550 with a PCIe adapter card in my motherboard's lower 16x PCIe 2.0 slot as games storage. But for some unknown reason the SN850x is not recognised by the motherboard. Obviously the SN850x is a PCIe 4.0 card but my MSI B450 Tomahawk Max ii only supports speeds up to PCIe 3.0 my understanding is that this should not be an issue as PCIe is backwards compatible. At first I thought the SSD was DOA but if I swap the SSDs over and put the SN550 back in the M.2 slot and the SN850x in the PCIe adapter both drives are recognised. I have the latest BIOS (7C02vHB) installed on my motherboard and have reseated all of the components including the motherboard power connectors multiple times and have reflashed the bios and cleared the CMOS to no avail. I've tried playing with the PCIe settings and ran the system in CSM mode and have generally done what everybody suggests online. Does anybody have any bright ideas? The system is working fine in its current configuration but I wanted to use the SN850x as a boot drive due to its Dram cache, plus even running at PCIe 3.0 speeds it should be twice as fast as the SN550 but it's not while running at PCIe 2.0 speeds off the chipset in an adapter card lol Thank you in advance
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Problem As of now the entire system experiences very brief and random freezes that occur regardless of work load. Despite many short freezes, the system has never bluscreened. Consistent frame drops to single digits and even freezes in Rocket league occur every time the game is launched. Task manager shows that the GPU usage very briefly spikes to 100 percent. These spikes do not always correlate to the actual freezes, but for the most part they do. The CPU seems to perform up to par in rocket league, but is much more inconsistent in Warzone. Warzone sometimes performs well. Both the GPU and CPU frame times are up to par. Sometimes the GPU frame times are subpar, sometimes the CPU frame times are subpar and sometimes both CPU and GPU frame times are subpar. Also sometimes suffers from random freezes Troubleshooting history I Ressaembled the entire system when I swapped the X570 aorus elite for the Tomohawk X570 wifi motherboard because I built it in a different case. I was getting inconsistent GPU and CPU performance and I figured the cause of that was my faulty X570 aorus elite motherboard which was apparently a pre-production model and suffered from the 'infamous' reset issue. I have performed a clean windows 10 install and reseated the RAM and GPU. I placed the GPU in a different PCI-express lane, but to no avail. I have tried the following steps since: Enabled and disabled XMP-profile Verified RAM stability and performance through RAM test86 Updated BIOS Updated to latest GPU driver manually Updated AMD chipset Updated AMD ryzen master and cycled through the different modes Forced PCI express gen 3 Switched through all energy profiles Disabled Xbox game bar Disabled nvidia overlay Disabled w10 gaming mode Disabled, reinstalled and enabled Nvidia control panel Underclocked the GPU in MSI afterburner switched the actual display, switched the GPU output connection and switched a display port cable for an hdmi cable. Tried several different mice and keyboards. Also tried disabling USB-devices one by one. Ran games on both SSD and HDD Specifciations Ryzen 7 3700x x570 TomaHawk wifi G.skill 2×8GB @3600mhz Seasonic Focus Plus 550 Gold Gigabyte GeForce RTX 3070 Gaming OC 8G Samsung 860 EVO 500GB WD Green 6TB 3.5-Inch SATA Closing thoughts I don't believe the PSU to be faulty. It's a 2018 seasonic 550W modular gold rated power supply that has served me well. However, the power cable that runs from my PSU to my GPU is an aftermarket cable. It powered my GTX 1080 which always performed well, but I am open to the idea it could be insufficient for the more power hungry RTX 3070. What are your thoughts about this? I realise most signs point to the RTX 3070 being a dud, but some indicators point towards the CPU or possibly the PSU (cable) being the curlprit. Besides, I have had plenty of instances where the GPU performed up to spec. I am very hesitant to RMA my GPU because I fear that the RMA process will be tedious. Gaming is one of the few social outlets during the current lockdown and I'd rather not be deprived of that. If you have any suggestions or know a possible fix, please do share. I greatly appreciate any input, even if it's somewhat unrelated such as an anecdote about your customer service experience in dealing with an Nvidia RMA. Misc note The PCIe power cable is just a single cable that splits into two sperarate PCIe connectors. The reason I haven't given a lot of weight to the option that the PCIe cable (or PSU for that matter) is at fault is because the freezes and low frame rates persist even at lower power utilization. I can't imagine the GPU drawing more than 225 watts in just a web browser game (150 for a single cable, 75 from the PCIe lane itself iirc), but my understanding of a PSU may be oversimplified.
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Hi! Yesterday I installed a msi B450 Tomahawk max ii with a amd Ryzen 5 3600 and with new ram as well. I already had my gpu a Asus GTX 1060 3gb And it all worked fine even updated everything and all was fine. But when I tried to start it today nothing happened. All fans turned on but nothing showed on the monitor. And the de bug light for boot is on but not every time I tried to reboot the computer I checked all the cables and even tried another psu. I tried also using the dvi port on the motherboard. I also checked the cmos removed the battery and such. Still no luck
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So I'm writing this in case any poor soul is googling for a solution to this as my fix was something incredibly stupid. I built my first pc and by some miracle it booted into the bios on first try. The first thing I did was to update the BIOS. I followed the instructions to a T: I plugged in the prepared USB drive and used the BIOS utility to select the file and update. Everything was going according to the instructions. Once the update finished, the PC rebooted. But I was greeted by a black screen. There was signal to the monitor, but it was black. To make matters worse, the VGA LED on the motherboard was lit, which according to the manual means GPU not detected or failed. I rebooted several times trying to get into the bios by masing delete like my life depended on it, but nothing. I was ready to reflash the bios using the flashback button or consider finidng another GPU to test out. Luckily, before doing that I found the very stupid fix. It's something no set of instructions I found mentioned: I unplugged the USB dirve. After doing that and rebooting, I was greeted by the freshly updated bios. I have no idea what caused this. I was thinking that it was trying to boot onto the usb drive for some reason, but even then I was still unable to get to the bios by mashing delete. Would love to hear if anyone has any idea what happened
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Hello, I am having some weird issues with my new build. Each time I boot into windows, radeon wattman crashes and tells me that setting have been restored and sometime I will get random shutdowns or fail to post. My specs are : Cpu : Ryzen 5 1600 (stock) Mobo : tomahawk B350 (latest bios as of today) Ram : Corsair Vengeance LPX 3000mhz (running CL16 at 2666mhz, A-XMP profile 1) GPU : RX480 sapphire 8gb (latest Drivers) Psu : EVGA 750 I want to point that all the temps are very good and managed carefully through the day (cpu idle 40c gaming load 65c and Gpu idles at 35C and under load 68c)
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So before I get my butt fired for giving my boss bad news (JK). I wanted to pick everyone's brain. My employer is rolling out a new Ryzen 5 Custom. I have verified both a bad Motherboard, and a Bad CPU (Brand new!). As Part of building any custom I always stress test it with Aida64, Metro Last Light, and the Heaven Benchmark. However when running AIDA64 it errors out about 5 minutes in saying system failure detected. Now this only happens when I am also testing System Memory too. Metro Last Light stutters worse then Intel Integrated GPU on 1920x1080. I have replaced the CPU, MOBO, and I have verified the GPU on a known good system. The only thing is the memory is not on the approved MSI list. It is a Corsair cmk16GX4M2A2400C16R Ram Kit. Has anyone ever had any issues like what I am experiencing? I am right now doing a full Memtest on the system to verify if the Memory is the culprit or not, but I am running out of ideas. Thank you in advance for the help you give me.
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Hi everyone, before I start a view words: I'm a long LTT fan and in this forum for a while already, but this is my first post. I'm glad for every tip you can give me! Please excuse me, if i chose the wrong subforum or this topic was already discussed, I couldn't find anything in my quick research. Now to my problem: I built a new system based on a MSI B450 Tomahawk Max. My case is a orange bequiet! Pure Base 600 with a tempered glass window. I want to set all LEDs to a deep orange that matches the color theme of the case. This was no problem with my HyperX Predator RGB RAM, which is set to the default orange value in Mystic Light (255/30/0). Due to the Tomahawk Max only having 12V RGB connectors, I connected my CPU cooler (Enermax Aquafusion) and my LED strips through a RGB convertor (GamerStorm/Deepcool 5V to 12V RGB transfer hub) with the motherboard. This of course limits the capabilities of the 5V RGBs, but my goal is to set the LEDs to a fixed color, no effects whatsoever, so this didn't bother me. Here's the issue: With the convertor in between, when I set the LED color to fixed (no effect), default orange gives me a slithly greenish yellow. I also couldn't find a nice deep orange using the color wheel or by typing in various shades of orange via RGB code. All I got was either red or yellow, there seems to be no middle ground, even when raising/lowering a single value by 1 it would change from yellow to red or vice versa. BUT here ist the thing: When I set the MB LED output to a breathing effect and choose the default orange in Mystich Lights, the strips and the AIO are clearly able to produce a nice deep orange, when the effect is supposed to be at it's peak, but are showing a deep green or a greenish yellow when the effect is supposed to fade in/out. Any tips on how to find the RGB code that ist used in the breathing effect for orange when at its peak other than typing in every possible variation of RGB codes for orange? Thanks in advance for every tip, idea etc.! Greetings
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Hello there. I am about to build my first pc, have already ordered all the parts, but I am having difficulty trying to figure out how to install the fans, so that I can control their rpms and colour via the motherboard's software (Mystic Light it's called I guess). Case: Zalman Z7 Neo (manual on same page) PSU: Super Flower Leadex III 650W Gold (can't find a manual online, but a review with images here) Motherboard: MSI B450 Tomahawk Max (manual here) CPU: Ryzen 5 2600X and will use the stock cooler (Wraith Spire). The case comes with 4 fans (3 rgb at the front, 1 rgb at the back) and I bought 2 more rgb fans for Top. It also has a preinstalled rgb led controller (if you scroll down in the manufacturer's page you'll see it). There are also some reviews of the case on youtube, here (russian), here (russian) and here (german). So, what am I supposed to do?
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