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  • † Tech Tips Christian Fellowship †
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  • Help, Want to make my first Gaming PC
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  • one fault about amd GPUs
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  • A random PC thoughts blog
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Found 37 results

  1. Hi, I am interesting to buy a Gaming Chair these days. I need to have as more warranty can be or better a Lifetime Warranty and to can handle over 120 kilos. What is my options in Brands and Models? Some chairs i see in the internet Shops are: 01. Aerocool AC220 AIR (211€). 02. Akracing Gaming Chair Black Blue AK-K7012 (295€). 03. Anda Seat AD12 XL Kaiser Carbon Maroon (298€). 04. Anda Seat Dark Knight (298€). 05. Anda Seat AD12XL V2 (244€). 06. CoolerMaster Caliber R1 (219€). 07. Corsair T2 Road Warrior (300€). 08. Corsair T1 Race (240€). 09. Cougar Gaming Armor S (251€). 10. Dxracer Formula F08-N (295€). 11. Dxracer Formula F01-N (271€). 12. Genesis Nitro 950 (249€). 13. Nitro Concepts S300 EX (295€). 14. Playseat Office (228€). 15. Sharkoon Elbrus 3 (295€). 16. Sharkoon Skiller SGS2 (229€). 17. Sparco R100 (237€). 18. Thermaltake GT Fit GC-GTF-BLMFDL-01 (246€). 19. vidaXL 20227 with Footrest (217€). 20. X-Rocker Amarok LED X Rocker (292€).
  2. I am really confused on the difference between these two LG monitor models: LG 32gk650f-b and LG 32gk65b-b. LG 32GK65b-b LG 32GK650f-b It looks like they are the same thing and the same pdf manual is given for both "models"
  3. I've been looking for the panel model of the MAG 241C made by MSI lately, but I haven't come across anything usefull after a couple hours of research. Does anyone have any clue of where I can continue my research or what the panel is actually called? Thanks in advance.
  4. Which one do you think is better
  5. Hi! MSI has a budget series of motherboards: Night Elf b85 and b150. The b85 version was only available in China while the b150 was available worldwide. How can I tell MSI to make a b360 or b450 motherboard? I know I'd probably be ignored but I want to try my luck! The b150 model looks too awsome and I would love a follow up for ryzen 2 and coffee lake.
  6. Hi everyone, not sure if this is the right thread (i've seen other 3d printing stuff here, but idk) I'm planning to build a low power server, so i'll be needing some 2.5HDD cages that i can stack and make easily. (like so) I've made the cages with 123D Design. the inner dimensions is exactly enough for my test drive (7mm height, 69mm width.) (here is the 3d drive i'm using with the dimensions) So Question: 1. Am i doing anything obviously wrong (not enough inner room for the drive, not all 2.5 HDD are the same sizes) 2. is the file okay or have i done something that'll waste all the printer filament I'll be getting a single one printed at my library soon, as my first prototype. I've attached the 123d Design files and a STL file if you want any other ones let me know, but (hopfully) you shouldn't need the files. Thanks (Edited the 123 design see rest of post for details) V11 increase width to have some extra room.123dx
  7. Hi guy i am new to 3d printing am and interested in getting one to play around with I am looking to make big object so the bigger the printing space and the fast the better thanks in advance
  8. I'm planning on making her costume and I need the 3D models for her gun, granade, and sleepdart gun. Anyone have the files?
  9. I know this is a tech forum not a car one, but I need help deciding, so please tell me which one you'd choose and why. The choices are a 2013 Tesla Model S P85+ (not p85d) with 48,000 miles for $60,000 or a 2014 Mercedes E63 AMG s model fully optioned out with 26,000 miles for $66,000. Both are very fast and very nice cars,and both have downsides. The Tesla is older with more miles and the Mercedes has abysmal gas mileage
  10. Dear friends, Witch "NZXT" case model i should get ? ( Or if u think there is cooler and good case let me know ) I hope you awesome people here will help me out choose best case ! I want great start for my new fresh build i will do summer Phantom 630 Full Tower Cooling System: Front 1 x 200 or 2 x 140 or 2 x 120mm Top 2 x 200 or 2 x 140 or 3 x 120mm Rear 1 x 140/120mm Bottom 2 x 140/120mm HDD Pivot 1 x 140/120mm Radiator Support: Front 1 x 140 or 2 x 120mm Top 2 x140 or 3 x 120mm Bottom 2 x 140/120mm Rear 1 x 140/120mm HDD Pivot 1 x 140/120mm Phantom 820 Ultra Tower Cooling System: Front: 1x 200mm Top: 2x 200mm or 2x 140mm or 3x 120mm Rear: 1x 140mm or 1x 120mm height adjustable Bottom: 2x 140mm or 2x 120mm Side: 1x 200mm Pivot: 1x 140mm or 1x 120mm internal pivot fan Radiator Support: Top: 2x 140mm or 3x 120mm Rear: 1x 140mm or 1x 120mm Bottom: 2x 140mm or 2x 120mm Pivot: 1x 140mm or 1x 120mm H440 Mid Tower ( Silent ) Cooling System: Front: 2x 140/3x120mm Top: 2x 140/3x120mm Rear: 1x 140/120mm Radiator Support: Front 2 x 140 or 3 x 120mm Top 2 x 140 or 3 x 120mm Rear 1 x 140/120mm H630 Ultra Tower ( Silent ) Cooling System: Front 2 x 200 or 2 x 140 or 3 x 120mm Top 2 x 200 or 2 x 140 or 3 x 120mm Rear 1 x 140/120mm Bottom 2 x 140/120mm HDD Pivot 2 x 140/120mm Radiator Support: Front 2 x 140 or 3 x 120mm Top 2 x 140 or 3 x 120mm Bottom 2 x 140/120 Rear 1 x 140/120mm Switch 810 Ultra Tower Cooling System: Front 2 X 120/140mm Rear 1 X 120/140mm Top 3 X 120/140mm Radiator Support: Top 3 x 140 or 3 x 120mm Bottom 2 x 140/120mm Rear 1 x 140/120mm Interior 2x 120/140mm
  11. Source: http://blogs.wsj.com/digits/2014/12/11/chinese-smartphone-maker-oneplus-on-its-global-push-missteps/ I think it's really nice to see them address some of the more frequent questions. It's a learning process for all of us and I appreciate Oneplus trying to mature as they enter the market. They haven't even been up for a year yet. What they've done within that year is a bit overwhelming. Hopefully we can see some more improvements done the road. Feed back appreciated. -Majinferno
  12. Redjo

    Samsung TV

    i was digging on the internet and i find this: Samsung UE40JU6410 good ? Max i can give is 800$ witch is about 1500BGN ( on bulgaria ) need 4k tv ... What other model u can offer me ? i dont need exacly samsung but popular brand = security ( my opion )
  13. Hey guys. I really need a 3d model of the silverstone Temjin TJ11. I can't find one online, and not quite sure how I can construct one myself. Does anyone got any advice for me?
  14. I think the title pretty much sums it up. Spent a couple minutes in Photoshop and came up with this.
  15. Hello. not sure if this is the right place to ask, but given how ltt and css have 3dprinted stuff in the past, i thought it would be as good a place as any. so quick question: is there any service that allows you to send in an object to have scanned into a 3d model? i recently got a new back panel for my old alienware machine. the old m15x-r1 is known for having hinge mounting weaker than pretzels, and epoxy reinforcement is absolutely required if you plan on ever opening and closing the screen more than twice. i was thinking if i could send in the weak plastic rear panel, could i have it scanned into a 3d blender file to use a 3d printing service to get it in either a stronger plastic compound or even metal? computer part in question i got that i'd like a stronger version of: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA9AX6MV0822&cm_re=m15x-_-9SIA9AX6MV0822-_-Product
  16. Hey guys, I've been using Kingston HyperX blue RAM for quite a few builds now (approx. the last 3 years). I also got 2x 4GB DIMMs for my last build in july. The issue is that these are 1600MHz but only run at 1333 otherwise it keeps crashing etc, and the BIOS automatically chooses 1333MHz. I should mention that these modules were not a kit. I got one of them earlier the year as an upgrade for my former build and the other one with rest of the parts, but I checked model numbers and they were the same. It was the same article from the same merchant so it should have been the same. Now I had a look at my SPDs via CPU-Z: As you can see they actually are not the same. For my next upgrade I had planned to buy these, should work since it's the other channel. Any thoughts about my exisitng RAM? Kind regards, Trek
  17. Hello everyone, I have another review for you! This time of the famous IBM Model M. Once again, I will post the text here, but to see all of the images and my sound test video you can follow this link to my website. Thanks for reading! ==== Now I shall review a retro IBM Model M. Today we're celebrating this particular keyboard's 20th birthday! Let's go over the typing experience first. As many of you know, this keyboard uses a buckling spring switch. There is nothing else like it. The actuation point is very pronounced, and the keystroke is heavier. You can't really bottom out the keys; the spring simply compresses until it can't compress any longer. I've achieved my highest and most accurate typing speed test scores (134+ wpm so far) with this keyboard. Most of all: it's fun! The most noticeable difference between the IBM Model M and other mechanical keyboards is the sound. Let's just say your colleagues at work are not going to be happy with your new-found love. Shall we give it a listen? As for build quality and design, it's built like a tank in the U.S.A., and it's appearance is old-school, classic. While it is made of plastic, the plastic is twice as thick as modern keyboards. Even though my keyboard has been on this earth for 20 years, there has been minimal, if any, discoloration during that time. It looks almost brand new. I especially love the raised and angled top row keys and the slight upward curvature to the keys on the other rows. However, it does take up a lot of space on your desk, which won't give you as much room for your mouse. The coiled cable is twice as thick as USB cables found with other keyboards. I like that it is removable, but I wish the connectors weren't proprietary. There are two small rubber feet on the bottom of the keyboard, but they are sufficient. Even if they were not included, the keyboard would **not** be moving around much because it is so heavy. This is also true when using the plastic angle adjustment feet. Another part of the great build is the keycaps. It would be just as hard to find a new-in-box IBM Model M as it would be to find a McDonald's burger with less than 10 grams of fat. This being the case, I purchased mine used. I was especially surprised to find no key shine. Part of the reason is because it uses higher quality PBT keycaps. The sides of the keys are glossy, while the tops have a nice simple texture. They also have dye-sublimated lettering. While a tiny bit fuzzy to the *Retina display* trained eye, they should never wear. At least, that's what the rumors say. There are some downsides to using this keyboard, and I'll go over those. One thing about the keyboard that bothers me is that the top and bottom halves in the front of the case have a visible gap. The spacebar is louder than the other keys, and has a different/looser tone. This is probably due to movement of the stabilizers. You simply cannot game. Not only are the switches heavier and wouldn't provide fast enough response, there is only 2 key roll over. This doesn't affect you when you're typing, not in the least, but when gaming even a rubber dome keyboard would be easier to use. I do miss the Windows key. I use shortcuts all the time to get into Windows Explorer (Win+E), go straight to the desktop (Win+D), and open up the start menu (using StartIsBack) in Windows 8. The good thing is you can use software called [KeyTweak](http://webpages.charter.net/krumsick/) to get around this. I've swapped out my caps lock key for the Window key, for instance. If you play games often and constantly have to swap out your board, this isn't ideal as KeyTweak requires a restart for any changes to occur. Another option similar to Keytweak is [AutoHotKey.](http://www.autohotkey.com/) Considering this product is now 20 years old, it's amazing how it still competes well with other, more modern, mechanical keyboards. I like it a lot, and I can almost guarantee you will too. If you're interested in picking one up for yourself, [Clicky Keyboards](http://www.clickykeyboards.com/) does a really nice job professionally cleaning, refurbishing, and then selling these keyboards. I am definitely going to be keeping this for a very long time, at least another 20 years.
  18. Are there 3D models of socket covers available online (for download)? I lost mine (LGA 1151) and I plan to get another via 3D Builder.
  19. I wanted to know the model number of the SFF pc (image ataached. I only know it's HP Compaq but i don't know the exact model number. Can anyone help me out? PS- I don't have the PC yet, just an image.
  20. I've had my 3D printer for a while and I've started to run out of ideas that I can model for it, I decided to draw a picture and now I'm wondering how I can convert it to an STL file or anything that can be opened in a slicer. I have Paint.net and inkscape as image software, blender and c4d for making/rendering models, and I use cura as my slicer software. Any help would be great!
  21. Hey Guys, I am currently planning a build and I am wondering if anyone has a SketchUp model of the Phanteks Enthoo Luxe/Pro. I am possibly doing a custom loop and it would be nice to be able to make a 3D model of the build. I have been searching everywhere for a model but I have had no luck. Thanks in advance, Phillip P.S. Sorry if this should be in another thread!
  22. Hey everyone! I'm planning to buy a new CPU ( i5-6500 or 6600K, not sure yet), and I would like some help to choose my motherboard. First of all, what chipset? Z170? H170 ? Then, what brand? I don't know if the diference between ASUS, ASRock, Gigabyte, or MSI is really big. Or if this doesn't matter. Finally, what model would be the best for these CPU ? I'm not sure, there are so many diferent motherboard I don't really know what to choose Thank you in Advance. My build : https://pcpartpicker.com/user/nastaliss/saved/#view=xThp99 .
  23. I need a new HDD for gaming storage and have decided to with a WD Black SATA III but I've found two versions:the old and the new model So I'm wondering,what's the difference? Both have the same stats so what does the new model hav over the old one?
  24. Hey guys, I'm new on forums (but now on LTT YouTube channel) and I want to build myself a gaming PC. It will have an i5 4460, H97 MOBO, 16GB of DDR3 RAM, a 1TB of HDD and later this year a 256 SSD. Maybe 2-3 fans. The Video card will be R9 380 4GB or GTX 970 (depends on the money I can save from other parts). I have a problem with choosing the right PSU. I think a 500-600 watts PSU 80+ Bronze will be enough (no overclock, no future upgrade because I'm not a hardcore gamer). BUT, what model and what brand should I choose? Seasonic, Corsair? I've heard that Corsair CX500 has a not so nice coil noise. Is it true? What PSU do you have or what PSU do you recommend? PS: I live in Europe. Price: around 50-60$. Thank you!
  25. Hey guys, I want to build a custom desk with housing for my PC. The Red Harbinger Cross Desk is exactly what I wan't but I refuse to pay $1,500 for it when I can just build my own for a fraction of the price. Basically I need a 3D model or a Google Sketchup of the RHCD or a similar desk model. If anybody knows where I can find one/get one please let me know. Thanks! The Desk:
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