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Budget (including currency): 1200 usd Country: usa Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: fortnite performance mode Other details (existing parts lists, whether any peripherals are needed, what you're upgrading from, when you're going to buy, what resolution and refresh rate you want to play at, etc): I need a monitor as well 240hz minimum that will be included in the budget. I made this part list please tell me how good it is and if I should stick with it https://pcpartpicker.com/list/XRZbwg
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- fortnite
- performance
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No matter what settings it boots into safe mode, so I have so far tried the following: * reset back to default (still safe mode) * re-install windows (can use it again now when manually booting into windows, despite jedec RAM speeds & resizable bar not working) * reset CMOS did nothing. * tried installing a older BIOS going from 1620 to 1605 which it allowed me to do but still no improvement. Did I fuck it up or is something else going on? Should I try to remove RAM sticks or other devices and see if the issue goes away? I suspect it might be TPM related.
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From the album: elite 110 , GTX 970 , i7 4770k ,2X H55
Made an airtight seal using Hot Glow to make sure that 100% of the airflow is used© royalty free
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- h55
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Disclaimers: I'm still learning. I can be wrong. This is not financial or legal advice, just me explaining what I've learned thus far. YMMV, but I'm not responsible for anything this knowledge is used for. All numbers are arbitrary, but somewhat realistic examples. It's confusing. I know. Tis life. I tried my best to explain it accurately. Concise is not something I do unless forced. So I've been learning stock trading basics for a while (terms, patterns, concepts, etc.), and I've been practicing along the way. Unfortunately, my program that I use resets sometimes (randomly) so I can't keep a running total of money lost/earned in this practice. Here is a picture of the program: Currently, I've lost 17% of my (paper, fake, monopoly) money, but this is a long play and I expected something different to happen (the huge dip in the DJIA was unexpected and threw me off). I should start making money Monday, Tuesday, or Wednesday of next week on this setup. To kind of help you read the above image, the top left is my totals. They give you $200,000 of paper money to invest, but $100,000 is for one type of trading and the other $100,000 is for the other type of trading. So it's more like I have $100,000 since I only trade with one half of it. Net Liq & Day Trades is what I use, and I don't "do" Day Trading. Right now anyway. I'm keeping an eye on Abbott and Tesla for reasons. I didn't straight up buy stock in either company. I purchased a Put for Abbott and a Call for Tesla. This means I make money if Tesla goes up and if Abbott goes down. Unfortunately, the opposite happened, so I lost like 30%, but it's reversing now. The bottom row of charts is the Weekly charts for Abbott, Tesla, & the Dow Jones Industrial Average (average of the an entire market's performance, not THE market, but A market). The top row is the daily chart for those things. But yeah. Still learning. I was really bummed out that the program reset on me. I had doubled my money on a stock going up $1 by selling Puts (literally, I had $100,000 worth of Puts and after I sold them, I had $200,000+). It was very lucky that the stock moved so strongly, but I knew it would go up. Options are Calls & Puts (There may be more, but I've only learned about these). The easiest analogy I've found to understand them is thus: Calls are Coupons on a stock price. i.e. If I buy a call for TSLA (Tesla) at $250, I have a coupon giving me the right to buy TSLA's stock at $250, no matter what the price currently is. Puts are Price Guarantees on a stock price. i.e. If I buy a put for TSLA at $250, I have a price guarantee that I can sell TSLA's stock at $250, no matter what the price currently is. So Calls are for buying stock, and Puts are for selling stock. If you are wondering how they make money doing that, if I buy a Call for TSLA at $250, but their current Stock Price is $255.50, I will pay $5.50 per Call. Then I will pay $250 per share of stock. So they still get the full price, at the time I purchased the Call, of the stock. However, Calls & Puts can expire. Just like normal Coupons and Price Guarantees. If I buy either of them, but I never buy or sell the stock, I lost money, but not a lot of money (what is $5.50?) That's one way the companies themselves make money on Options. What a Call & Put give you is time. If you think a stock is going up, you can buy a Call (Coupon) to buy that stock at, say $250, but then wait until it hits $300 to buy it at $250. So you know for a fact you are going to profit. Or you can let the Call expire because the stock dropped to $200 and you were wrong about it going up. So buying it at $250 would be stupid as it's currently $200. Options are just that. Options. They buy you time to think about whether you want to buy/sell the stock or not. Just for reference, here is how you make money buying & selling options (Calls & Puts): Buy Calls = You make money if the stock goes up - Because you have a coupon that says you can buy the stock at $250, if the stock goes to $300, you buy it cheaper than it currently is, then sell it for a profit. Buy Puts = You make money if the stock goes down - Because you have a price guarantee that says you can sell the stock at $250, if the stock goes to $200, you can sell it for more than it currently is. Sell Calls = You make money if the stock goes down - I'm still trying to understand why and how this works. It's complicated because you are selling someone else or a company the right to sell stock to you at $250 or wtv. Sell Puts = You make money if the stock goes up - I'm still trying to understand why and how this works. It's complicated because you are selling someone else or a company the right to buy stock from you at $250 or wtv. What each scenario does is it basically decides how much money you can profit or lose in the trade. i.e. if I sell a Put, my maximum profit is capped at 100% (double my money), but my maximum loss is infinite (I lose all of my money). However, the reason you would want to sell a Put is because you sold something. You immediately get paid for it, but the amount is small. And it's very likely you will profit, and very unlikely you will lose all your money. These are the things to consider when doing a trade with options: Profit potential (i.e. max profit is 100%, infinite, or what-have-you) Loss Potential (i.e. 100% AKA infinite, or what-have-you) Probability of both of those happening (i.e. odds of profit vs odds of loss) Each of those choices above (Buy Calls, Buy Puts, Sell Calls & Sell Puts) have different values for how much you can earn/lose and what the odds of each thing happening are. That's generally what I've learned so far. This is just practice mode, I'll give an update when I move to real money mode.
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Hello, In my opinion adding a pitch black dark mode as an option alongside the regular dark mode is a good idea. Pitch black dark mode looks better than the current mode which looks very gray. Thanks
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So basically I've built new computer, it's been like two months since I've built it, it doesn't look like it has problems or anything, But when I play games, it sometimes goes to power saving mode, I only have GTA V, League of Legends and Roblox, but it happens only in league and it even happened in Roblox! im really confused why. Here are my specs: Evga GTX 770 2 GB H81M-K Kingston 8 GB 1600 MHz Xilence XP700R7 i5-4460 3.2 GHz LG 19 inch Monitor 1280x1024 HDD Seagate Barracuda 250 GB (Idk health is not 100 I've checked it before, don't remember the exact digits of current HP.) This happens only when I play certain things, I've also downloaded MSI Afterburner to check on how much temp CPU and GPU goes. League of legends: High graphics, GPU:55~60T CPU: 50-55T GTA V: Normal Graphics, GPU:60~80T (depending on interactions) CPU:60-65T Roblox (funny enough), GPU:50T CPU:40T I have also ran stress test and gpu goes at 80 temp max. It doesn't seem to be overheating or anything but I haven't solved this issue of power saving mode, also when it does that, fans start spinning crazy and I can't do anything until I force shut down and reboot. What causes this? Could it be the reason of monitor? maybe 80/100 (or something like that) Health of HDD? idk, I want to fix it as fast as possible cause I've been saving money for a long time and I don't want anything bad to happen. P.S I play Roblox cause of my little bro, don't make funny comments. :D Thanks in regard. :)
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Hello friends I’m using a Corsair Vengeance pro rgb ram kit, as some others have posted the rgb stays lit and running its programed light show while in sleep mode, its understood that sleep mode powers Ram regardless of rgb and my rig is in a room which no one sleeps in so NBD if there’s a laser show goin on at night, my family find it entertaining, before I had the rgb kit I rarely let sleep mode kit in, usually I’d turn the pc off as I go to bed or leave the house, since it’s cool to watch my ram flicker it’s cool red/blue rainfall I’ve been thinkin about using sleep mode more often, I’m just wondering if it would harm the rams in anyway to stay on like that, I’d hate to have to put a $600 ram kit in jeopardy just to entertain my family members while I’m not at home. Thank you for any inputs
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Hey everyone. So my when i logged onto my pc I noticed my cursor did move but i couldn't click anything. I did a scan in de the command prompt and I had to restart my pc, no problems yet. When I wanted to login I didn't see the prompt bar where i'm supposed to type my password... Alright then lets see if I can get into safe mode and see what I can do there using these ways: Pressed Windows icon + r to launch a run command - No response Pressed the space, enter, and any other buttons to launch a password prompt - no response Tried to start up the Windows 10 using F8 safe mode (I know it does not work for Windows 10 but I tried anyway) Can anyone help me out so i can log in again? (My apologies for my bad English)
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I read somewhere that 16:9 is just a cropped version of 4:3, however I do not know the validity of that statement or if it even applies to the GH5. However that made me wonder, which ratio will give me more information to work with? If 16:9 is truly a cropped version of 4:3 on the GH5, would shooting in 4:3 give me more room to work with in post? I understand that the point of 4:3 is for anamorphic lens, but I was just wondering if there could be other uses for it.
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- gh5
- anamorphic
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Buy Windows 10 on Amazon: http://geni.us/yfMWO5F Is Windows' new "game enhancing" software solution actually legit?
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- windows 10
- game
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I have been experiencing this problem since I built my PC about 2 years ago and lately I've really been needing to leave my computer in sleep mode. It refuses to stay in sleep mode for longer than a minute and then just turns on again. I have tried disabling the network adapter from waking up my computer and changing the wake timers on power settings. Also, I have tried changing every setting in the power and sleep section of my BIOS with the same result. Any suggestions?
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Hi All, I know this is in the hardware networking forum but there is really no software networking fourm. I was scrolling through my settings on my Asus DSL-AC68u router thismorning when I noticed a setting (see picture below) called Annex Mode. Currently I have this set to Annex B/J. There are settings for: Annex A Annex I Annex A/L Annex M Annex A/I/J/L/M Annex B Annex B/J I would like to know exactly what it is and what it does. Will it increase my speed if I set it to a different mode? I am using VDSL2 by the way and I currently get 28 mbits down and 7 mbits up with no drops. Thanks in advance for any helpful answers
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I'll ask this again because i didn't had any good response, also i've seen that many people have the same problem. I've bought a new HDD WD Black, i wanted to move some files into it, so after a few hours of copy paste, i checked again and the drive wasn't anywhere, it didn't show on the Disc Manangement neither, so i restarted my pc and then it showd up again. I use it as a secondary drive, i've been told that probably it went on sleep mode, but what i don't understand is that it wasn't on idle so it couldn't have go in sleep mode if it was still working. Now i'm moving files into it again, and every hour i check the folders so it doesn't go to sleep mode. So if that's the problem, how can i turn off the sleep mode?
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Well, first, english is not my first language so apologys for mi typing. Tight your seatbelts because this is LONG (and i have no idea how to condense more, as i said, its not my first languange, and i learned alone). I have a problem with mi bios, or S.O, idk. I bought my "low budget gaming" pc. It has 2x8GB of DDR4 2400Mhz (stock, for now), my Ryzen 5 2400G, 240GB of M.2 storage and a single HDD (rescued from an old notebook, 320GB). Power supply 650 Watts 80 Plus Silver (i don't remember the brand, but is full modular). The motherboard is the Gigabyte AB350 Gaming 3 (with the lastest bios F31). I bought the X4 Foundations, and with the out of the box configurations in my bios the game doesn't lauch. Nope, nothing. I went to the "chipset" options in the bios, all was set to automatic, and putting only 1GB of "dedicated" Vram. I changed the "automatic" option and set to "force" the integrated GPU, new options, great. Set the "UMA Mode" from "Automatic" to "UMA Fixed", new option, at this point, AMAZING (new technology to me, so i was a little scared and not sure what to do really). Set the "Frame Buffer Size to "2G"" (it ranges from "64MB" to "16G", i assume is GB). GREAT, the game is playable.... until.... CTD after more or less 1 hour of playing it. Game reported "not enough memory available". I went to the "dxdiag" and see 2GB of Vram, and nearly 8GB of shared memory. After diving in the rabbithole turns out that the game is forbid to use the shared memory as per the devs. OOOOKAY... go to the bios, changed "2G" to "4G" in the "Frame Buffer Size" (minimum for the game from the posted specs is 3GB of Vram), save and exit. Windows start, i go straight to the game, half our later, CTD AGAIN!. At this point i'm fuming. Go to "dxdiag" again. WHAT?, 2GB of "dedicated Vram", same as before, same shared memory and everything. Go to Bios again, and start changing to "8G", same, "16G", same. Go to "1G", windows take that (insert confused face here). Went again, changed to "512MB", windows take that. Is the same across all selections. From "64MB" up until "2G", it's functioning, after that, nothing, only stays at "2GB of dedicated memory". Windows is sometimes stupid reporting information about the sistem, so i RAN EVERYTHING. GPU-Z, check. AIDA64, check. Unigine Valley, check. Uningine Heaven, check. Overclocking tools (from gigabyte all the way down to ryzenmaster), check. All reports 2GB of "dedicated" Vram. Anyone has a comment on this? same problem? or it's just me?. Another settings to modify in the bios? I have installed my copy of windows without UEFI, that is said, to enter the bios i don't have to go through the options in windows to acces it. ¿Maybe thats the problem? I searched for all day (it's my day off), and i have not came across anything like my problem and at this point, im out of options. This is why this post. Thanks, and have a great day you all.
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So my friend and I are in an argument he claims that all data stored even in a few seconds after the save or write to an SSD with for example rapid mode is stored in case of a crash. My sight on the story is that if for example, you save a file to your SSD with a rapid mode on and the buffer/cash of the rapid-fire hasn't saved to the SSD jet it's lost in case of a crash. Who is right and why?
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Hello all, So recently this problem occured to me where my pc wont wake from a sleep state, but my keyboard lights up when i press the key and also same goes to the mouse, clicked on the mouse and it just lights up. But the PC is still at its sleep state, power indicator is still blinking. I also press the power button to wake the pc up and it also didnt worked. Since nothing worked i tried to force my pc to power down by holding the power button for few second till everything is off and switch the PSU off for a minute. After that i tried turning my pc on but this time the power indicator button lights up but my pc did not boot up at all. I double check and my motherboard is actually receiving power. Im using an Asus strix B360-h Gaming motherboard, it has a standby power led which shows if its receiving power. So i power down my pc yet again and turn it off for a long 10 to 20 minutes and turn it back on. Thats where my PC started to boot normally and no signs of error shown during the boot. After I logged in to my windows account, all my files that were open is still open as if my pc was still sleeping, this was kinda weird as i clearly switched off the PSU. When I play game everything is perfectly smooth. So my only solution is to just not let my PC sleep but just completely shutdown my PC and when I'm going to use it the PC just turns on normally. But if i put my PC back to sleep the whole process of not waking up occurs again. This is kinda of frustrating :/. What can cause this? Can it be software problem or hardware problem? As for hardware all my hardware is running perfectly well, no signs of bad hardware. Also this problem never happen before only recently like few days ago. My PC specs: CPU: i5 8400 MOBO: Asus Strix b360-h gaming RAM: 16gb Kingston Ram 8gb x 2 SSD: 240 Kingston A400 SSD (OS installed) HDD: 1tb Seagate (Mostly for storing games and files) GPU: MSI Armor GTX 1070ti 8gb PSU: CoolerMaster MWE 650watts 80+gold Full modular Running Windows 10 Pro all windows updates and drivers are up to date. EDIT: Keyboard and mouse are both set to allow to wake the computer
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Hey guys, I wonder if my hardware will get any issues when I just put my computer into "Energy saving" mode and let it sleep and instead of shutting it down. The reason why I ask this is because I had a workplace and we were not allowed to shut down the computers in the full week. There was a reset once a week on sunday. Thanks in advance!
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- energy saving
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Hello, I have recently gotten a Sharp 4k HDR TV and linked it up with my PC. My goal was to play casual games with a controller while sitting back in bed. However, after setting up the TV and linking it with my PC I have realized that there is the usual input latency you get with some TVs, and after realizing this I looked for ways to activate game mode. The issue was that there was absolutely no clear way to do this. After referring to the manual I found that game mode is in fact a feature but with an astrix marking small text I must read. The small text says that "These settings only apply for sets with Active Motion Rates of 600 and 800". I don't understand what this means but I made the assumption that I could not see Game Mode because this display either does not support this or I must find a setting do active this. The model number for the TV is - LC40UI7552K Could anyone help explain if there is anything at all I can do to fix this? Playing the games in 4k is fine, but to active HDR and minimize the lag I can't seem to do.
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Hi, I tried to play on my monitor (LG Flatron E2250V) but, each time it displays " HDMI - Power saving mode". I tried using safe mode but it still displays the same error on my monitor I tried to plug the PS4 to another monitor and it works, from here I tried to change the quality from Auto to 480p and 720p, I also tried to desactivate the HDCP option. My monitor isn't broken because I can use it on my laptop and I also tried to use another HDMI cable.
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I want to disable gamemode because it is screwing over some stuff on my pc but i want to keep the thing wich hides the notifications from the game until the game is stopped It is very hard to test out so i wanted to ask someone who may have knowledge about that
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Hi, how can I enable Samsung Retail mode on a note 9? I have searched online and all I can find is how to disable it. Can someone help? Thanks!
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I have been wondering for a while why Linus and others reviewers do not do a GPU Benchmark with the driver's settings performance like in this image. Just to let people know maybe losing some detail might help with the performance I use this with my GTX1070 and have no complaints + it can all so remove some stutter in some games but it is up to the individual to do this. If anyone who reads this give this a try with a lower end GPU it might help some people because before I got a Nvidia GTX 1070 I was using a GTX750ti and these settings helped majorly with games like BF1 - Crysis etc so if anyone does or have there settings like this let us know. The Image
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- reviews
- performance
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Hi everyone. I've been using my Dualshock 4 controller for a few months and it's been working fine, but then one day it just left me stuck out of exclusive mode, and I can't use it properly or play some games on it. Been searching the web the past week, tried formatting my disk twice, but the problem goes on (I installed DS4 Windows the same way back when it used to work without issues). Also gave a shot at InputMapper but couldn't help either. Tried it on another computer and worked fine. What am I missing here, that's probably really obvious? I'm going mad with this situation, I've been thinking about spending 60€ on a new Xbox One Controller, but I just don't wanna do it and then for some reason this one decides to start working again. All the help is appreciated!
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- dualshock4
- pc
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