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Showing results for tags 'malfunction'.
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I have a WD Passport hard drive I need to be able to use to back up my secondary computer but my computer wont recognize it and just tells me "Device Descriptor Request Failed" and says that I already have the recommended drivers for the device. I have tried EVERYTHING I can think of. If someone would be so kind as to help me out if possible I'd love you FOREVER!!!!! Feel free to shoot me a message for my discord. I'm so desperate to get this to work!!
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I tried to update my GPU to the latest firmware,472.12 and GE force experience told me that it would require a restart because it's critical update. Ive never had a GPU update tell me that before. When I did, the restart happened, my GPU wasn't detected at all and in device manager it was labeled "Display" rather than the usual 1660 TI label and not under Display Adapters. It came back eventually but then I restarted my pc again, and it turns out the update didn't go through, so now i'm in the process of using DDU to hopefully make sure it installs properly. But it initially disconnected again, before this time restoring that it was a 1660 TI in device manager. The fact that it disconnects initially when the restart happens has a me a tad worried. Is this GPU dying? Specs CPU i7 8700 GPU : Windforce 1660 ti Asus prime h310 plus motherboard 16 gb ddr4 ram PSU 500w Storage : 3 SSD's of various sizes.
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For quite some time now, I've been searching for answers to an unresolved question. I don't know where to post this, but I can copy it and send it elsewhere if I'm told where to post it. My laptop has been sleeping randomly for some time now. It's not as common as you think. Quick summary: Disabled the sleep function > Now it turns off; Cleaned entire computer > No effect; I changed the thermal paste and the Fans > No effect; Replaced battery > No effect; Reinstalled my system several times > No effect; Used different operating systems > No effect; I put a literal huge fan pointing straight at the computer > No effect. I changed my keyboard > No effect. Meaning: It is not due to overheating and not due to software. My suspicions so far are that there might be a problem with the power or with the card where the "power on" button is, but it wouldn't make much sense, as it only turns off when it's under intensive use. This is an old laptop, it was dropped on the floor and the screen broke, I use it through another screen and it's pretty old. Using a website with a Power Supply calculator, I saw that I would need something with 8A, but my power supply only supports 3.7A... maybe because the PC uses extreme amounts of power for processing, it identifies that it doesn't have enough power and goes into sleep/off mode? I don't want to spend more money for nothing anymore, so I'm looking for something definitive. My battery is almost never full, I always use it through the cable anyway. I read that changing the BIOS battery solves the problem, but... does it really? Below are the Specs from my PC (the ones I got the fastest, if you need more, tell me how to get them and I'll put them below): Intel Celeron M 370 1500 MHz Dothan 6GB RAM Windows 7 Ultimate SP1 Below are the Specs of (The thing i use to charge): Input: 100-240V - 50-60Hz 1.7A Output: 20V = 3.25A plz help -
My Surface Book 2 has been unable to successfully attach/detach 9 times out of 10 and base is not detected. This happened last year in August too when they released the feature updates but it was fixed within a week, it has been close to three weeks this time, is anyone else having the same issue? I cannot take it to a service centre as the closest one is in Singapore, where I don't live and I tried everything short of rolling back the updates, should I wait for the updates or roll it back? I'd prefer to have my Surface up to date but this is getting ridiculous. -
Hi, new forum user but avid tech user here. I was recently installing my old, but good, memory in a friends absolute garbage computer. They have a single stick of 8gb memory from HyperX 2600~mhz but I'm switching them to my 2x8gb 2133mhz Viper memory. Speed isn't their issue with memory, they just like having lots of things open at the same time. Issue: Anytime there's any memory in the second DIMM slot, the computer acts as if both slots are empty. If I put 1 stick into the first slot, boots fine, recognized the new memory, the other stick as well in the first drive, boots fine. But if I only have one stick in the second slot, or GOD FORBID, a stick in both slots, the computer simply doesn't boot, E.G as it would without any memory in it. There isn't a debug light or sound since this is a old barebones build, and from the information I have on the Motherboard, it supports dual channel. And yes, the board and RAM are both DDR4. I have got into BIOS when I had one stick in, and the computer shows both slots on hardware info. Thanks again for any help. Edit: motherboard is a gigabyte h110m-a for anyone wondering. The RAM I am installing is two identical models and no pins are bent on the slots.
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Hello, I have a problem with my PC. Sometimes on turning on the pc via the power button results in a black screen and hdmi not detected message (i have tried using a different monitor or cable this is not the issue, the monitor and cable work perfectly with my laptop). If i restart again sometimes the system will post and it will work fine. On other occasions there will be green artifacts on the screen, sometimes concentrated in two vertical lines, and sometimes spread evenly all over the screen. In 90% of the cases once the system is turned on it will work without problems even in gaming/stress applications. Sometimes the screen will randomly freeze and show a black screen with hdmi not working. I have sent my graphics card to the local repair shop and the store cleric there after a few days said the graphics card is working fine and that the problem is likely in my motherboard. I have changed my motherboard with a brand new one but the problem persists. So to summarize, the problem seems to disappear if i restart the pc via the power button and is usually only present when turning on my pc for the first time in the morning, once it is turned on, the problem almost never appears. Also if the system booted up correctly the first time, turning it off, waiting and turning it back on again will in result in power on without any problems. Secondly re-seating the graphics card seems to solve the problem temporarily, this is why I thought the problem was with the motherboard PCI-E connection.
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So I was cleaning my PC case and I accidentally turned off my PC on power button and after that my Ryzen Master doesn't want to open and pops up this error https://prnt.sc/sa7c2p, before I turned off my PC while cleaning everything worked fine, also my gpu tweak 2 reseted and I don't have my fan curves, does anyone know what happend and how to fix it? I can't seem to fix the ryzen master software, I tried reinstalling it, clearning CMOS, running as administrator, but I did download this that day I don't know if that made my programs malfunction, I'd like to mention it again everything worked fine, ryzen master was running then I accidentally turned off my PC on power button and since then my GPU Tweak ready my GPU differently than it did before, and on HW monitor my CPU is very last when it used to be 2nd from top, also MSI afterburner doesnt read my GPU: https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/help/17588/windows-fix-problems-that-block-programs-being-installed-or-removed I'd really like to get this solved without installing fresh windows because I can't afford to download 3TB of games and programs and since I can't control any fan curves my PC sounds like a helicopter that's about to take off. -
So ive had a NZXT Hue 2+ for less than 6 months, and it was wonderful! It added all the extra pop a PC needs in a case with tempered glass side panels. But.... around a month and a half ago, my entire Hue+ system started to break. So right now, i have 3 lighting strips that light up although not in the correct colors, and one led strip that has completely stopped functioning. i've tried changing Hue+ inputs, and cables, reinstalling the software and tried even tried multiple software versions, but nothing. So exactly one month ago I sent the customer service an email, explaining my situation and even sent picture proof, but no response, it has been a full month with no response... still waiting. Has anyone else had a similar problem? or actually received a reply from their customer service? help!
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Hello guys, I am having weird issues with my new setup, made up of the following: * Gigabyte AB350 Gaming * Ryzen 5 1600 * 700W PSU * GeForce 460 (old) * 8G DDR4 UDIMM * 500GB SSD (old) * 500GB HDD (old) The issues started right after the first successfull startup. I realized I had forgotten to add the speakers, which turned out to indefinitely beep after starting. This issue was successfully resolved by updating the BIOS to the most recent version; Then the real issues began though. I realised that most of the times I try to start up the computer, it would not do so. Either it would not even pass POST (no beep whatsoever), sometimes it would beep once, then show a black screen. Then again sometimes it would beep, show the POST screen and then crash during boot. Sometimes it would not power the keyboard or the mouse, sometimes if those work it wouldn't let me access the BIOS (freezing effectively). From my current point of view there is no correlation other than the hardware, and I cannot make out a reason except faulty hardware. The funny thing however is, that sometimes it will start up and boot the system, which I then can use indefinitely (i.e. for 5 hours straight now, only built the rig today). What I did for troubleshooting is: * Power on with just MB, CPU and RAM, same issues * Look for settings in BIOS possibly corrupting * Update BIOS * Reset CMOS by shorting the jumpers * Reset the components (RAM, GPU) Since I sometimes can successfully boot the rig, I don't think it is incompatibility between RAM/ CPU, the RAM is listed as compatible in a list published by gigabyte. The graphics card worked in my old computer, which had issues with randomly turning off and (unrelated because occurred with another graphics card and components) bluescreens, so it MAY be the graphics card, which I doubt though. I cannot test this right now though, since the ryzen does not offer an igpu. I currently ordered a replacement for the Mainboard, because I suspect it to be faulty, but I am still trying to resolve this issue or at least identify the faulty part. Has anyone encountered this issue, or does anyone have any tips for me? I am getting pretty disappointed RN. Thanks in advance.
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I built my PC about a year ago and got comfortable with it for about a year so my PC skills are pretty rusty. I was playing PUBG as I always did but this time I had ReShade, a shader mod my Canadian buddies told me to install to "make the enemies pop out" and "enhance the gaming experience". But in the midst of my third game with the shader mod on, my computer just powers out for half a second and turns back on but the monitor does not display anything. I tried switching out the cable that powers the graphics card (Sapphire Nitro+ RX 470 4BG OC), switching the PCI slot and even reinstalling drivers but nothing helps. The card simply is not detected. The fans are not blowing but I'm pretty sure that's its idle fan technology. I might be wrong though. The LED display is on so it is not the PSU's problem (Corsair 750w, which handled this card and another AMD card before so it might not be the problem. It could be the ReShade or it simply could be my card's defects. I contacted Sapphire since I am still under warranty but I heard that their customer services sucks. Please HELP!!!! My system: Intel(R) Core(TM) i5-4690 CPU @ 3.50GHz Microsoft Windows 10 (build 15063), 64-bit Drive 1: 1TB NAS WD Drive 2: 300GB Hitachi Hard Drive Drive 3: 120 GB Sandisk SSD (Boot) Drive 4: 480 GB Crucial SSD Motherboard: Asus Z (can't remember exactly) SAPPHIRE RX 470 NITRO+ 4GB OC (Linus reviewed this on his channel)
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Hello guys. When I'm using my headset with my phone and the cable twists while it's in my pocket, like the cable rotates as I walk and when the cable rotates it jumps to the next song in the playlist. And when the cable rotates to the other side it goes back to the previous song played. Like if there is a bind that when the cable twists it's a programmable function to tell the mediaplayer to either jump forward or backwards. So how do I fix this issue? I've googled but found nothing that describes my problem. And I don't have any issues with the headset when I'm using my PC. I'm using a LG G3 if it helps. EDIT: It's probably just the extra cable that comes in the box that acts this way.
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Hi, I have a bit of a problem with my new AIO water cooling. I was cooling my i7-6700K (stock speed) with a Cooler Master Hyper 101 ( http://www.coolermaster.com/cooling/cpu-air-cooler/hyper-101/ ). Idles around 27-32 degrees, tops at 65-68 under load from AIDA64, which is great for a $15 cooler. I just bought a Cooler Master Seidon 120v v3 plus ( http://eu.coolermaster.com/en/cooling/cpu-liquid-cooling/seidon-120v-v3-plus/ ) and I am currently running it with only one cooler pushing out. I hear the pump running, I tried two types of thermal paste and double checked if it's placed properly. Idles at same 27-32 degrees, but reaches 80+ degrees under load from AIDA64 and EVEN THROTTLES after few minutes. The better side of the Seidon is that after I turn the stress test off, it drops the temperature back to 30 degrees immediately and keeps my case, along with all other components, much cooler. I am taking into consideration that this is a CHEAP, AIO water cooling solution, but still... should it be outperformed by an air cooler of this caliber?!? I mean I am running the Hyper 101 with ONE 80mm FAN, set on silent mode?!? Maybe my new water cooler is malfunctioning? Or even worse, it's working as it should and I spent $60 on a useless piece of sh**.
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Having an interesting problem. I have a dual boot machine running two different instances of Windows 10 Pro. Most of the time (but not every time), I boot into either one, I get an error that the last USB device I plugged in has malfunctioned. This has been happening more and more of late, and I haven't recently installed any new hardware. For the life of me, I cannot figure out what it could be. I should add that this even happens when I haven't plugged anything new into my system. Device manager tells me that I have two unknown USB entries. One is Link In Compliance Mode. The other is Set Address Failed. In the device properties, both hardware IDs don't do me any good. Just, again that the link is in compliance mode and that set address failed. Any ideas on this? It's driving me batty. Thank you in advance! PC Specs: CPU: Intel Core i7 6700K RAM: 32GB DDR4 GPU: EVGA Geforce GTX 980 MOBO: Gigabyte GA-Z170X-Gaming 7 (Rev: 1.1) With latest F20d firmware) Boot SSD: Samsung 500GB SATA Storage HDD: Western Digital 3TB HDD OS: Windows 10 Pro
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Hello everyone,I told myself to refrain from asking a forum for help, mostly because I feel like I'm being kind of an annoyance and this is probably a very easy fix which I shamefully can't find.I'll give some back story to how I came here:Finally got around to building my own desktop PC, with the following specs:Asrock B450M ProAMD Ryzen 5 1600Asus RX570 OCSeaGate Baracuda 1 TBTeam L5 Lite 3D 240GBCorsair Vengeance 8 gb ddr4 3000mhzCorsair CX450MInter-Tech B42 (shitty case, I know).I was so happy when I finally got around to building the PC... Even happier that it posted the first time!!I felt like a king, I had build my first PC all by myself and it was working amazing.This went on for a week, the PC didn't malfunction in any way whatsoever. There were no signs of bad components or anything.Until...Yesterday morning, I started up my PC, nothing out of the ordinary..Suddenly my internet went out, which was weird because all other systems connected to the same router still had internet. Whilst this was confusing me I noticed that I could not move my mouse! My system froze up on me. for no apparent reason whatsoever.I thought, this might be some kind of hiccup, I'll let the pc work it out and I'll be patient.After 5 minutes, it was still as frozen.. I decided to forcefully shutdown the PC by holding the power button. After this... my PC never was the same again.I tried to reboot the systeem but the system didn't seem to post, I atleast wasn't getting any videosignal whatsoever...This confused me a lot.. my system was working fine for a whole week? what could have gone wrong?What I tried to fix my computer so far:- Boot without GPU connecting the monitor to my motherboardresult:nothing... apparently my CPU doesn't have internal graphics.. ? - Remove CMOS Battery to reset BIOSresult:The system seems to somewhat work for a minute after this, sadly.. after that minute the system crashes once again and doesn't post unless I reset the BIOS again...- Put the single RAM stick that I have in the second slot because apparently Ryzen likes that better.result:Doesn't really change a whole lot. - Use VFX to select the higher Ghz preset for my RAMResult:System is even more unstable and blue screens.- Remove all other peripherals except for keyboardResult:nothing noticeable. After all these attempts, I noticed my BIOS was very outdated! Aha! This might be the solution to my problem! Sadly enough, this didn't fix all of my problems. I now can consistently get into Windows but only for a limited amount of time. It doesn't take long (10 minutes max) before programs start becoming unresponsive. After that the PC freezes and doesn't do anything anymore.. I tried to restore WIndows back to a restore point where there were no errors whatsoever. This didn't seem to change anything. I also looked into the health of my drives but CrystalDiskInfo states that both drives their health is "Good". Now I'm out of options...I'm really not sure what to do.. does anyone have any suggestions? ?
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Hi Everyone, I've always wanted to build a good gaming PC in a small box and brought the following for my first ITX build: CPU: AMD - Ryzen 7 2700X 3.7 GHz 8-Core Processor CPU Cooler: Noctua - NH-L9a-AM4 33.84 CFM CPU Cooler Motherboard: Asus - ROG Strix B450-I Gaming Mini ITX AM4 Motherboard Memory: Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory Storage: ADATA - XPG SX8200 Pro 1 TB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive Video Card: Gigabyte - GeForce RTX 2070 8 GB WINDFORCE Video Card Case: KOLINK - ROCKET Mini ITX Desktop Case Power Supply: Corsair - SF 600 W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully Modular SFX Power Supply Since this photo I've turned the PSU around so the fan now faces this way and tidied the cables up with zip ties. I've not oveclocked anything and all settings are set to default. At idle the temp for both the CPU and GPU are between 65° and 70° but within about 5 mins of gaming they both quickly exceed 82° and the PC will eventually reboot. Is there anything anyone can suggest to help with this apart from using a new case which allows the use of watercooling and case fans? Can the Kolink case take this type of hardware?ThanksStuart -
I bought a second hand Crossover 34U100 (which is basically a Samsung C34F791WQ or a Microboard M340CLZ) but I have a weird phenomenon. There appears to be some weird vertical lines in the screen only noticable on bright and plain colors. It is very hard to take a picture of the issue but I have found a picture online which does resemble it quite well (see attached image). It seems like every other pixel row has a darker color. I don't know why. Is this something I can fix? It seems to be hardware related since the issue also exists with a different system.
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For some reason I'm having some inexplicable issue with my Asus Tuff B360 motherboard. Got everything setup and installed just fine but when I shut down at night, the LEDs of everything in the case stay on, the fans whirl (sometime nervewrackingly heavily) and I have to hold the power button to shut down fully which I know can't be good for it. I've tried stuff in the BIOs, reformatting, and so much more and I'm not sure what to do to fix it. or what could be wrong at all for that matter..
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So I upgraded my PC today. I installed a brand new ASUS ROG STRIX 1060 6gb, Thermaltake AIO Liquid cooler and 16gb DDR4 3000mhz Memory. It booted fine and worked fine for a few hours. The CPU and GPU load were both fine, and the GPU didn't go past 70c. I played Minecraft for an hour or so and the fans didn't spin on the GPU (but this is expected because it isn't a very demanding game). The fans do work because they span up in Overwatch. While playing Minecraft all of a sudden my monitors go blank and the computer makes noises like a jet engine. I would assume its a fan or fans spinning up super fast. I panicked and held down the power button and then unplugged the PSU. What could of caused this? Is it catastrophic and what do I do?
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I've been experiencing a bizarre issue. I have three monitors. One G-Sync 1440p165Hz, a secondary 1080p60 on the left, and a vertical tertiary 1080p60 on the right, all plugged into separate ports of a GTX 1080. Over the past few weeks, I've been having issues regarding only the right monitor. When the computer idles and goes to sleep (turning the displays off but not locking), sometimes when I come back and move the mouse to wake it up, the right monitor will have strange artifacting effect like the lines are offset back and forth or something. See the example photos of MSI afterburner and my Steam library on the affected monitor. http://imgur.com/gallery/YHoNyhH You can still move things back and forth to it and sort of make out what's on the screen, but it's definitely an issue. Now here are the oddities I've encountered that really make this a problem: If I turn off, unplug, or change the display adapter properties of the affected monitor after it's glitched, my entire PC locks up and freezes, completely unusable without a hard shut down. I did this once with a video open and the sound continued until the video ended, so it seems to still be operating in the background, but all of the screens and input are completely frozen. I have a Steam Link connected to my TV. If I use the Steam Link and connect to my PC after the monitor has glitched, when I navigate the mouse over to the affected monitor on the Steam Link, the graphical glitch is still visible even on the TV (leading me to believe it's not an issue specifically with the monitor) and my mouse is then locked onto that screen and I can't mouse back off of it without turning the Steam Link off. And last, if I connect to my PC from my phone via TeamViewer after the monitor has glitched, whenever I toggle the view over to the affected monitor, I immediately lose connection to the PC and have to reconnect. If I come back and wake the computer to find that the monitor has glitched, and then I let it idle and sleep again, and then wake it once more, instead of all the monitors coming back on, they all remain black and my speakers start beeping, forcing a hard shut down. The only way I've found to fix the issue after it's started is to simply restart the PC without unplugging or turning off any monitor, and it will reboot just fine. The only thing I could think of is that it's a GPU issue. The only problem with that though, is that my GPU has been performing more than admirably everywhere else. I have zero issues playing demanding games at high framerates, multitasking and using windows across monitors, and even in benchmarking and stress tests. This graphical issue has persisted through 2 or 3 GPU driver updates. And the issue has never occurred while I'm actively using the PC, only like 3 out of 4 times when it wakes from sleep. The only other hardware change of any kind recently is that I had an old 3TB hard drive used for game storage fail, but it was removed 2 or 3 weeks before this started happening. Any help or advice is much appreciated.
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I have come across an error lately. whenever i am coping file/files from HDD to another HDD the transfer opens at good speeds (150mbps) but in a while (10mins) it drops to 170 to 50kpbs and then gradually to 0 kbps and stalls At times the HDD receiving the DATA goes off, no trace of it in the OS until a restart. what could be the issue ? I have updated my BIOS to the latest version but still no progress. I currently have 1 SSD 240 GB (OS drive) and 2 x1TB HDD for DATA.
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Just bought HyperX Alloy Elite RGB, and I'm very happy with it, BUT the spacebar seems very sensitive. I barely need to press it for it to register, and I've already had some accidental presses while gaming. All the other keys are fine and takes more to press as Cherry MX Red should. It might just be me that is used to my previous 25$ keyboard, but it seems off. I'm considering having it replaced, but just want to know if this is what its like for others as well.
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So I had the Insyde F.53 bios installed and my laptop wouldn't shut off correctly (I would hit the windows key and select shutoff, my fans would go full speed and the power light would stay on until I hold it and shut it off manually). So I updated the bios to Insyde F.55 and I still have the problem. Should I go back to an earlier version of Insyde, if so, which version? Driver versions here: https://support.hp.com/us-en/drivers/selfservice/hp-envy-15-k000-notebook-pc/6936206/model/7174348?sku=G7Z03AV New Text Document.txt
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Hey there, So as the title says, my DT990 pro stopped working. At first it was the right ear, and I had to reverse the headset ( I'm actually deaf in the left ear, so ... yeah, had to put the left earpiece on the right ear ). Just a few hours ago,the sound in the left died too : I put the headset down for a few minutes, when I picked it up, nothing. I read this is sadly a common occurence with this headset, and it's actually the second pair that I bought just one year ago - previous model lasted a few years though. I wasn't very careful with the first one I must confess, and the added presence of a very turbulent cat who had a fetish for the heavy, curled cable wasn't helping. So I treated the second one with more respect and despite that, it didn't even last as long as the first one. Obviously, I'm not super motivated at the idea of buying yet another one. So I'm thinking of at least trying to repair it first. But I need to ID the cause first. The jack plug often seems to be the culprit from what I read here and there, but as you can see from those photos, I think the cables look... Well, quite damaged, right from the base of the earpiece ( disclaimer : I have absolutely zero practical knowledge of any sorts in electronics ). I seriously doubt those white-ish super thin wire-things coming out from the black-to-gold ( ground? ) and red-to-red ( right? ) bigger wires aren't supposed to be the actual connections. On the other hand, white-to-blue ( left? ) seems okay. Shouldn't at least the left earpiece work though ? In short : does it look like I have to change the whole cable straight from inside the earpiece and so open it, or should I focus only on the jack plug ? Or should I quit and just buy another headset, which probably won't be a BD anymore since they really don't seem to be sturdy enough for typical desktop usage ? Thanks for any help or insight into that matter =) - W
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Hey guys again! So here's this video I just made, I heard a weird cracking sound when playing OW, but as soon as I exit the game, it stopped. Any idea what could it be? It happens everytime I start the game, and it really annoys me. https://imgur.com/a/xKct4 PS: Only happens when starting OW (I have battlerite running in the background and also started other games, but everything seems normal except OW) I already had several issues with my GPU, maybe it's that? Here's my other thread about this faulty (imo) GPU, and I'm not sure what to do with. Maybe I'll just sell it...
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I turned on my computer and after i logged in to it after startup, there was a green lattice pattern all over my screen for just a moment. I quickly turned off the computer and turn it on again but there was nothing. What is happening? by the way i just built my pc for like just a month ago, didn't expect this to happen Spec r5 1600 msi gaming x rx 570 Crucial 8gb ram Corsair cx550m psu Mobo - msi b350 pc mate sandisk 120gb ssd WD 1tb HDD
