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Found 31 results

  1. Hello everyone,I told myself to refrain from asking a forum for help, mostly because I feel like I'm being kind of an annoyance and this is probably a very easy fix which I shamefully can't find.I'll give some back story to how I came here:Finally got around to building my own desktop PC, with the following specs:Asrock B450M ProAMD Ryzen 5 1600Asus RX570 OCSeaGate Baracuda 1 TBTeam L5 Lite 3D 240GBCorsair Vengeance 8 gb ddr4 3000mhzCorsair CX450MInter-Tech B42 (shitty case, I know).I was so happy when I finally got around to building the PC... Even happier that it posted the first time!!I felt like a king, I had build my first PC all by myself and it was working amazing.This went on for a week, the PC didn't malfunction in any way whatsoever. There were no signs of bad components or anything.Until...Yesterday morning, I started up my PC, nothing out of the ordinary..Suddenly my internet went out, which was weird because all other systems connected to the same router still had internet. Whilst this was confusing me I noticed that I could not move my mouse! My system froze up on me. for no apparent reason whatsoever.I thought, this might be some kind of hiccup, I'll let the pc work it out and I'll be patient.After 5 minutes, it was still as frozen.. I decided to forcefully shutdown the PC by holding the power button. After this... my PC never was the same again.I tried to reboot the systeem but the system didn't seem to post, I atleast wasn't getting any videosignal whatsoever...This confused me a lot.. my system was working fine for a whole week? what could have gone wrong?What I tried to fix my computer so far:- Boot without GPU connecting the monitor to my motherboardresult:nothing... apparently my CPU doesn't have internal graphics.. ? - Remove CMOS Battery to reset BIOSresult:The system seems to somewhat work for a minute after this, sadly.. after that minute the system crashes once again and doesn't post unless I reset the BIOS again...- Put the single RAM stick that I have in the second slot because apparently Ryzen likes that better.result:Doesn't really change a whole lot. - Use VFX to select the higher Ghz preset for my RAMResult:System is even more unstable and blue screens.- Remove all other peripherals except for keyboardResult:nothing noticeable. After all these attempts, I noticed my BIOS was very outdated! Aha! This might be the solution to my problem! Sadly enough, this didn't fix all of my problems. I now can consistently get into Windows but only for a limited amount of time. It doesn't take long (10 minutes max) before programs start becoming unresponsive. After that the PC freezes and doesn't do anything anymore.. I tried to restore WIndows back to a restore point where there were no errors whatsoever. This didn't seem to change anything. I also looked into the health of my drives but CrystalDiskInfo states that both drives their health is "Good". Now I'm out of options...I'm really not sure what to do.. does anyone have any suggestions? ?
  2. Hi Everyone, I've always wanted to build a good gaming PC in a small box and brought the following for my first ITX build: CPU: AMD - Ryzen 7 2700X 3.7 GHz 8-Core Processor CPU Cooler: Noctua - NH-L9a-AM4 33.84 CFM CPU Cooler Motherboard: Asus - ROG Strix B450-I Gaming Mini ITX AM4 Motherboard Memory: Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory Storage: ADATA - XPG SX8200 Pro 1 TB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive Video Card: Gigabyte - GeForce RTX 2070 8 GB WINDFORCE Video Card Case: KOLINK - ROCKET Mini ITX Desktop Case Power Supply: Corsair - SF 600 W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully Modular SFX Power Supply Since this photo I've turned the PSU around so the fan now faces this way and tidied the cables up with zip ties. I've not oveclocked anything and all settings are set to default. At idle the temp for both the CPU and GPU are between 65° and 70° but within about 5 mins of gaming they both quickly exceed 82° and the PC will eventually reboot. Is there anything anyone can suggest to help with this apart from using a new case which allows the use of watercooling and case fans? Can the Kolink case take this type of hardware?ThanksStuart
  3. Just bought HyperX Alloy Elite RGB, and I'm very happy with it, BUT the spacebar seems very sensitive. I barely need to press it for it to register, and I've already had some accidental presses while gaming. All the other keys are fine and takes more to press as Cherry MX Red should. It might just be me that is used to my previous 25$ keyboard, but it seems off. I'm considering having it replaced, but just want to know if this is what its like for others as well.
  4. I have a pair of Logitech G230 headphones. Yeah they're cheap and crappy, but I didn't really need much more when I bought them so... Anyway, lately I've been noticing some audio degradation. For example when I'm watching videos (YT and Vessel both) or listening to music (VLC) I hear some... stutters. I think. Not 100% sure how to call it. It also breaks up from time to time and sometimes I feel like the music is slowed down. As if I set the playback speed to lower than normal. But it comes and it goes, it's not always present. But interestingly enough I haven't noticed any of these issues while gaming (game audio is completely fine, but background music has the issues) or with Skype/Discord. I have my headphones plugged into my Blackwidow Ultimate 2014, which then goes to the back of the mobo. I have been blasting my headphones full volume on the headphones controls and in Windows the past few months or so. But I have things like game audio and music turned down, I'm not blasting full volume across the board. Sometimes when I rage I lightly throw them, drop them on the desk, but nothing too special (not very often). What could this be? Is it a software error or are my headphones broken? Please help :3
  5. Hi Everyone, I just had a question about whether drivers would clash. Here's some context: I have moved my pc parts from my dormitory back home and from that desktop pc, I had a Samsung 850 PRO ssd running in it. That being said, drivers were installed for that PC specifically. Here's what I want to do: Since I'm not exactly done school yet, I would like to take that SSD and throw it into my laptop. Seeing that there won't be any laptop drivers, naturally I would install laptop drivers. Here's what's wrong: When I come home after I'm done school and throw that same SSD back into my desktop, would there be a clash of drivers? Would these issues arise before this even happens (i.e. I install it into the laptop, install drivers and the whole thing malfunctions)? Thanks in advance!
  6. half an hour ago i found out amd overdrive and that it can be used to help with overclocking my cpu (x4 860k) since i'm using a way higher league r9 380x i downloaded it from amd's website and after it was installed it asked to restart which took a surprisingly long time when i tried to log into windows nothing i typed was inputted until windows goes back to the window before from waiting and then after trying again it worked then when i opened overdrive and clicking ok to the warning message the pc restarted, without the problem from the line above (and i did try several times) then i attempted to make this thread but chrome didn't work as it was loading webpages so slow that the freeze screen came up and i lost patience and closed chrome from it's tile below since kill did nothing didn't want to use edge since my login wasn't saved then i uninstalled it with no problem and chrome worked again any suggestions?
  7. I have a Dell Latitude E6420 issued to me for the place I work at that I've been using for the past 4 years (it wouldn't be my choice of a computer but I have to use it since the HDD is imaged to use my work's network and its one of a handful of authorized machines to run on it). Long story short it crapped out on me a couple of weeks ago by giving me the M1004 error of overheating constantly. After many trips to my IT department they replaced the motherboard, fan, CPU (multiple times) and reimaged the HDD and it finally seems to work fine and all with no issues. However, the BIOS screen sometimes says there is a fan malfunction upon startup. What is weird about this is that I bring up HWinfo64 and the fan is working just fine with an RPM anywhere between 2000-3200 and accelerates as needed I can even hear it running and everything so I'm thinking its just a false positive especially given that the temperature readings of the CPU, GPU, and HDD all seem "normal" to my knowledge (about 50C-70C for the CPU and GPU respectively). Even when I run a BIOS diagnostic it lists the processor fan as functioning so I have no idea why it would come up and if its something to get worried about. What I'm wondering is what are the maximum safe temperatures for: i5-2520M Dual Core CPU Nvidia NVS 4200M I just want to know so I can preemptively take it in (they are rather busy folks) if it begins overheating again since my IT department has had so many issues with trying to repair this thing that they said they will either loan me a new machine or replace it with no cost to me if it overheats again. Thanks. Other info. OS Windows 7 Enterprise 64 Bit 8GB 1600mhz RAM Dell BIOS version A14 232 GB Hitachi HDD
  8. For two months my Standard PS/2 Keyboard has been malfunctioning, specifically the Q, S and D keys. My options for this problem are extremely limited in terms of practical solutions, for I run a Toshiba Satellite L655. Specs are in my signature below. I can't use an external USB keyboard either because both my USB 2.0 ports are broken (which I plan to replace later on) Is there any to fix this? All drivers are up to date.
  9. Hey there, So as the title says, my DT990 pro stopped working. At first it was the right ear, and I had to reverse the headset ( I'm actually deaf in the left ear, so ... yeah, had to put the left earpiece on the right ear ). Just a few hours ago,the sound in the left died too : I put the headset down for a few minutes, when I picked it up, nothing. I read this is sadly a common occurence with this headset, and it's actually the second pair that I bought just one year ago - previous model lasted a few years though. I wasn't very careful with the first one I must confess, and the added presence of a very turbulent cat who had a fetish for the heavy, curled cable wasn't helping. So I treated the second one with more respect and despite that, it didn't even last as long as the first one. Obviously, I'm not super motivated at the idea of buying yet another one. So I'm thinking of at least trying to repair it first. But I need to ID the cause first. The jack plug often seems to be the culprit from what I read here and there, but as you can see from those photos, I think the cables look... Well, quite damaged, right from the base of the earpiece ( disclaimer : I have absolutely zero practical knowledge of any sorts in electronics ). I seriously doubt those white-ish super thin wire-things coming out from the black-to-gold ( ground? ) and red-to-red ( right? ) bigger wires aren't supposed to be the actual connections. On the other hand, white-to-blue ( left? ) seems okay. Shouldn't at least the left earpiece work though ? In short : does it look like I have to change the whole cable straight from inside the earpiece and so open it, or should I focus only on the jack plug ? Or should I quit and just buy another headset, which probably won't be a BD anymore since they really don't seem to be sturdy enough for typical desktop usage ? Thanks for any help or insight into that matter =) - W
  10. I bought a second hand Crossover 34U100 (which is basically a Samsung C34F791WQ or a Microboard M340CLZ) but I have a weird phenomenon. There appears to be some weird vertical lines in the screen only noticable on bright and plain colors. It is very hard to take a picture of the issue but I have found a picture online which does resemble it quite well (see attached image). It seems like every other pixel row has a darker color. I don't know why. Is this something I can fix? It seems to be hardware related since the issue also exists with a different system.
  11. I've been experiencing a bizarre issue. I have three monitors. One G-Sync 1440p165Hz, a secondary 1080p60 on the left, and a vertical tertiary 1080p60 on the right, all plugged into separate ports of a GTX 1080. Over the past few weeks, I've been having issues regarding only the right monitor. When the computer idles and goes to sleep (turning the displays off but not locking), sometimes when I come back and move the mouse to wake it up, the right monitor will have strange artifacting effect like the lines are offset back and forth or something. See the example photos of MSI afterburner and my Steam library on the affected monitor. http://imgur.com/gallery/YHoNyhH You can still move things back and forth to it and sort of make out what's on the screen, but it's definitely an issue. Now here are the oddities I've encountered that really make this a problem: If I turn off, unplug, or change the display adapter properties of the affected monitor after it's glitched, my entire PC locks up and freezes, completely unusable without a hard shut down. I did this once with a video open and the sound continued until the video ended, so it seems to still be operating in the background, but all of the screens and input are completely frozen. I have a Steam Link connected to my TV. If I use the Steam Link and connect to my PC after the monitor has glitched, when I navigate the mouse over to the affected monitor on the Steam Link, the graphical glitch is still visible even on the TV (leading me to believe it's not an issue specifically with the monitor) and my mouse is then locked onto that screen and I can't mouse back off of it without turning the Steam Link off. And last, if I connect to my PC from my phone via TeamViewer after the monitor has glitched, whenever I toggle the view over to the affected monitor, I immediately lose connection to the PC and have to reconnect. If I come back and wake the computer to find that the monitor has glitched, and then I let it idle and sleep again, and then wake it once more, instead of all the monitors coming back on, they all remain black and my speakers start beeping, forcing a hard shut down. The only way I've found to fix the issue after it's started is to simply restart the PC without unplugging or turning off any monitor, and it will reboot just fine. The only thing I could think of is that it's a GPU issue. The only problem with that though, is that my GPU has been performing more than admirably everywhere else. I have zero issues playing demanding games at high framerates, multitasking and using windows across monitors, and even in benchmarking and stress tests. This graphical issue has persisted through 2 or 3 GPU driver updates. And the issue has never occurred while I'm actively using the PC, only like 3 out of 4 times when it wakes from sleep. The only other hardware change of any kind recently is that I had an old 3TB hard drive used for game storage fail, but it was removed 2 or 3 weeks before this started happening. Any help or advice is much appreciated.
  12. For some reason I'm having some inexplicable issue with my Asus Tuff B360 motherboard. Got everything setup and installed just fine but when I shut down at night, the LEDs of everything in the case stay on, the fans whirl (sometime nervewrackingly heavily) and I have to hold the power button to shut down fully which I know can't be good for it. I've tried stuff in the BIOs, reformatting, and so much more and I'm not sure what to do to fix it. or what could be wrong at all for that matter..
  13. I built my PC about a year ago and got comfortable with it for about a year so my PC skills are pretty rusty. I was playing PUBG as I always did but this time I had ReShade, a shader mod my Canadian buddies told me to install to "make the enemies pop out" and "enhance the gaming experience". But in the midst of my third game with the shader mod on, my computer just powers out for half a second and turns back on but the monitor does not display anything. I tried switching out the cable that powers the graphics card (Sapphire Nitro+ RX 470 4BG OC), switching the PCI slot and even reinstalling drivers but nothing helps. The card simply is not detected. The fans are not blowing but I'm pretty sure that's its idle fan technology. I might be wrong though. The LED display is on so it is not the PSU's problem (Corsair 750w, which handled this card and another AMD card before so it might not be the problem. It could be the ReShade or it simply could be my card's defects. I contacted Sapphire since I am still under warranty but I heard that their customer services sucks. Please HELP!!!! My system: Intel(R) Core(TM) i5-4690 CPU @ 3.50GHz Microsoft Windows 10 (build 15063), 64-bit Drive 1: 1TB NAS WD Drive 2: 300GB Hitachi Hard Drive Drive 3: 120 GB Sandisk SSD (Boot) Drive 4: 480 GB Crucial SSD Motherboard: Asus Z (can't remember exactly) SAPPHIRE RX 470 NITRO+ 4GB OC (Linus reviewed this on his channel)
  14. So I upgraded my PC today. I installed a brand new ASUS ROG STRIX 1060 6gb, Thermaltake AIO Liquid cooler and 16gb DDR4 3000mhz Memory. It booted fine and worked fine for a few hours. The CPU and GPU load were both fine, and the GPU didn't go past 70c. I played Minecraft for an hour or so and the fans didn't spin on the GPU (but this is expected because it isn't a very demanding game). The fans do work because they span up in Overwatch. While playing Minecraft all of a sudden my monitors go blank and the computer makes noises like a jet engine. I would assume its a fan or fans spinning up super fast. I panicked and held down the power button and then unplugged the PSU. What could of caused this? Is it catastrophic and what do I do?
  15. So I had the Insyde F.53 bios installed and my laptop wouldn't shut off correctly (I would hit the windows key and select shutoff, my fans would go full speed and the power light would stay on until I hold it and shut it off manually). So I updated the bios to Insyde F.55 and I still have the problem. Should I go back to an earlier version of Insyde, if so, which version? Driver versions here: https://support.hp.com/us-en/drivers/selfservice/hp-envy-15-k000-notebook-pc/6936206/model/7174348?sku=G7Z03AV New Text Document.txt
  16. Hello guys, I am having weird issues with my new setup, made up of the following: * Gigabyte AB350 Gaming * Ryzen 5 1600 * 700W PSU * GeForce 460 (old) * 8G DDR4 UDIMM * 500GB SSD (old) * 500GB HDD (old) The issues started right after the first successfull startup. I realized I had forgotten to add the speakers, which turned out to indefinitely beep after starting. This issue was successfully resolved by updating the BIOS to the most recent version; Then the real issues began though. I realised that most of the times I try to start up the computer, it would not do so. Either it would not even pass POST (no beep whatsoever), sometimes it would beep once, then show a black screen. Then again sometimes it would beep, show the POST screen and then crash during boot. Sometimes it would not power the keyboard or the mouse, sometimes if those work it wouldn't let me access the BIOS (freezing effectively). From my current point of view there is no correlation other than the hardware, and I cannot make out a reason except faulty hardware. The funny thing however is, that sometimes it will start up and boot the system, which I then can use indefinitely (i.e. for 5 hours straight now, only built the rig today). What I did for troubleshooting is: * Power on with just MB, CPU and RAM, same issues * Look for settings in BIOS possibly corrupting * Update BIOS * Reset CMOS by shorting the jumpers * Reset the components (RAM, GPU) Since I sometimes can successfully boot the rig, I don't think it is incompatibility between RAM/ CPU, the RAM is listed as compatible in a list published by gigabyte. The graphics card worked in my old computer, which had issues with randomly turning off and (unrelated because occurred with another graphics card and components) bluescreens, so it MAY be the graphics card, which I doubt though. I cannot test this right now though, since the ryzen does not offer an igpu. I currently ordered a replacement for the Mainboard, because I suspect it to be faulty, but I am still trying to resolve this issue or at least identify the faulty part. Has anyone encountered this issue, or does anyone have any tips for me? I am getting pretty disappointed RN. Thanks in advance.
  17. So i was trying to clean up the wires in my PC, and i also decided to put in a cleaner looking SATA cable, it had 3 SATA power connectors, so i 2 of them to my SSD, and HDD. When i turned the PC on, the whole thing engulfed in smoke. When i investigated what happened after shutting down the PC, i found the SSD like this (see pic). Obviously, the SSD is a complete loss, but the rest of the PC is fine, and connectors on the HDD seem to be intact. However, it's not showing up in the Bios. Basically, what I'm trying ask, is the HDD also fried? Thanks in advance for the help.
  18. Hi! I have an original Note 10.1 from 2012. I use Gmail and it usually works well. But, when I try to open replies to my mail, it just shows what I sent, not the reply. My Gmail is in conversation mode, but I don't know if that's something one could change. Anyway, it works through the browser and it's just a minor issue for me. I'm just wondering why and how I can fix it.
  19. Hi, I bought ttesport´s challenger a couple months ago and yesterday I spilled some water on it. It is waterproof so I assumed just shaking the water off would be okay and It kept working. But today I arrived and discovered some keys dont work, however, they worked yesterday, even after the water spill. Thx advanced.
  20. So ive had a NZXT Hue 2+ for less than 6 months, and it was wonderful! It added all the extra pop a PC needs in a case with tempered glass side panels. But.... around a month and a half ago, my entire Hue+ system started to break. So right now, i have 3 lighting strips that light up although not in the correct colors, and one led strip that has completely stopped functioning. i've tried changing Hue+ inputs, and cables, reinstalling the software and tried even tried multiple software versions, but nothing. So exactly one month ago I sent the customer service an email, explaining my situation and even sent picture proof, but no response, it has been a full month with no response... still waiting. Has anyone else had a similar problem? or actually received a reply from their customer service? help!
  21. Hi, I have a bit of a problem with my new AIO water cooling. I was cooling my i7-6700K (stock speed) with a Cooler Master Hyper 101 ( http://www.coolermaster.com/cooling/cpu-air-cooler/hyper-101/ ). Idles around 27-32 degrees, tops at 65-68 under load from AIDA64, which is great for a $15 cooler. I just bought a Cooler Master Seidon 120v v3 plus ( http://eu.coolermaster.com/en/cooling/cpu-liquid-cooling/seidon-120v-v3-plus/ ) and I am currently running it with only one cooler pushing out. I hear the pump running, I tried two types of thermal paste and double checked if it's placed properly. Idles at same 27-32 degrees, but reaches 80+ degrees under load from AIDA64 and EVEN THROTTLES after few minutes. The better side of the Seidon is that after I turn the stress test off, it drops the temperature back to 30 degrees immediately and keeps my case, along with all other components, much cooler. I am taking into consideration that this is a CHEAP, AIO water cooling solution, but still... should it be outperformed by an air cooler of this caliber?!? I mean I am running the Hyper 101 with ONE 80mm FAN, set on silent mode?!? Maybe my new water cooler is malfunctioning? Or even worse, it's working as it should and I spent $60 on a useless piece of sh**.
  22. Having an interesting problem. I have a dual boot machine running two different instances of Windows 10 Pro. Most of the time (but not every time), I boot into either one, I get an error that the last USB device I plugged in has malfunctioned. This has been happening more and more of late, and I haven't recently installed any new hardware. For the life of me, I cannot figure out what it could be. I should add that this even happens when I haven't plugged anything new into my system. Device manager tells me that I have two unknown USB entries. One is Link In Compliance Mode. The other is Set Address Failed. In the device properties, both hardware IDs don't do me any good. Just, again that the link is in compliance mode and that set address failed. Any ideas on this? It's driving me batty. Thank you in advance! PC Specs: CPU: Intel Core i7 6700K RAM: 32GB DDR4 GPU: EVGA Geforce GTX 980 MOBO: Gigabyte GA-Z170X-Gaming 7 (Rev: 1.1) With latest F20d firmware) Boot SSD: Samsung 500GB SATA Storage HDD: Western Digital 3TB HDD OS: Windows 10 Pro
  23. Hey guys again! So here's this video I just made, I heard a weird cracking sound when playing OW, but as soon as I exit the game, it stopped. Any idea what could it be? It happens everytime I start the game, and it really annoys me. https://imgur.com/a/xKct4 PS: Only happens when starting OW (I have battlerite running in the background and also started other games, but everything seems normal except OW) I already had several issues with my GPU, maybe it's that? Here's my other thread about this faulty (imo) GPU, and I'm not sure what to do with. Maybe I'll just sell it...
  24. I turned on my computer and after i logged in to it after startup, there was a green lattice pattern all over my screen for just a moment. I quickly turned off the computer and turn it on again but there was nothing. What is happening? by the way i just built my pc for like just a month ago, didn't expect this to happen Spec r5 1600 msi gaming x rx 570 Crucial 8gb ram Corsair cx550m psu Mobo - msi b350 pc mate sandisk 120gb ssd WD 1tb HDD
  25. Hello there, I have a Ducky SHIN3 Red Led MX Red. Had it for a good 6 months or so and its been working very well until this morning, I accidentally spilled some juice on it and now it stop registering my keybuttons after like 5-10 min of usage. It was only alittle juice i spilled and it got over like 2 buttons, L Ctrl and L Alt (alittle on the windows key aswell), I instantly turned it upside down on some paper towels to get most of the juice out, I then removed the keycaps and cleaned it with some damp paper towels. The odd thing is that keyboard works perfectly for alittle while if i just unplug it and plug it back in <_< . Now I've experienced some annoying things with the Ducky Shine 3 keyboard and their wierd key combination mode and shit, so im thinking maybe i managed to hit some wierd key combination to trigger some mode that dosent register key pushes. But i checked that in the manual + i reset my keyboard to factory setting, but ye, same thing there. Been using the keyboard now for about 20 minutes without any problem so im hoping it stays O.K until dreamhack so i can buy another keyboard on site. Anyway I appreciate if you would share your thoughts on this matter of mine. Thank you!
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