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Hey I'm trying to find a way to extract files from a MacBook pro 13 retina 2015 because its not working anymore i cleaned it and boot up the screen gets light black and i hear the start up sound without the disk i can access the recovery mode first i wanted to swap M.2 card because it wont boot up the old one but seems i need to get PCI m2 x3 version and x4 wont work. so i need to find a x3 version but my question is where can i find a adapter or how to retrieve the data from old M.2 original disk? i'm not sure what to look fore i been lurking on amazon for a while trying to find one that fit but no luck

How Does my MacBook Pro (13-inch, Mid 2012) Version 10.13.6 not Support Steam when Four Weeks Ago Linus had Steam work on Version 10.11? (from the server with gpu video)

Hi everyone, just wanted to ask as my work might be trialing a Bring-Your-Own-Device policy for Macbooks where they will pay us £50 a month for 1 year to cover depreciation/maintanence etc. I currently don't own a Mac but if this policy is approved I will be looking to buy one (I have been looking to buy one for quite a while but could never justify the cost) My partner owns a Macbook Air M1 base model and I have been using it occasionally and actually find it a very capable machine (albeit with very little storage) I work in Digital Marketing mainly handling Paid Search (PPC) I work from home most of the time and have to travel to the office about 1-2 times a month. My work generally involves 20+ Chrome tabs (Google Ads, Google Analytics and such), a few spreadsheets, PowerPoints and very rarely editing some promotional material in Photoshop (very rarely and hardly ever demanding as it is normally quite small images used in banner ads and such) I currently use a company laptop (to open VPN restricted reports and such) and my PC (with Intel i5-7500, GTX1070, 16GB RAM) which I use 95% of the time with 2 external monitors (1080p both) as the laptop is a slow Dell with 10th Gen Intel i5 and 8GB RAM. So with all this in mind I have been looking at the new MacBook Air and MacBook Pro 13 inch for my current workloads but have also been looking at some older Intel based 13 inch MacBook Pros from 2020 with 10th gen i5 16gb Ram and 512gb SSD which here costs about £790 refurbished in Excellent quality or around £600 in acceptable quality, which will mean I will barely need to use personal funds to cover the MacBook. If I go with the new ones they will be around £1100-1200 for the base model and going up to £1400-1500 if I need more RAM and the 512gb SSD (which M2 ones migth need due to the slow 256gb one) So my question is whether if I go with the Intel based 2020 Macbook pro if it will be enough to handle day-to-day stuff and have 4-5 hours battery at least so I can use it without being plugged in all the time and being able to use my 2 external monitors as well, which the Air and 13inch M2/M1 Macbook pro can't do, so if I go with the new ones I will still probably use my PC and then use the MacBook when not at my desk only. Whereas with the Intel one I will be able to do both but just concerned with its speed in 2023 and battery life. (4-5 hours will be plenty for me, I am hardly away from a socket for more than that) Going Intel will also mean I get to see whether I can cope with MacOS on a daily basis for my work and then in a couple years time sell it if possible and upgrade to the Apple silicon ones and also save some money at the moment. Apologies for the long post, just wanted to list everything.

I know for a fact that macbooks around/before 2016 might have had a usb short circuit protection because I've seen these images online- and heard stories where people have connected Faulty/shorted USB-A cables to their macbooks which resulted in one of 3 things- 1.) USB port getting temporarily disabled until the cable is removed 2.) Macbook temporarily shutting down until battery cable is removed and re-attached 3.) Macbook logic board burning I would like to know if the above protection features still hold true for usb c macbooks. I specifically have a macbook pro 13 inch 2020. I would like to know what could happen if someone accidentally attaches a shorted usb c charging cable where the pins of the USB c interface are shorted with each other.....(can actually happen because they're only 0.5mm apart) into the modern (post 2017) macbooks. -Will the charging port disable until cable is removed? -Will the macbook disable until battery is removed and reconnected? -Will the logic board say bye to its owner? I would also like to know what additional protection macbooks have against similar possibilities, for eg. Short circuit is basically over current flow, what protection do macbooks have against, say.....over voltage, what if someone applies a voltage higher than normal at the USB c charging port. I'm asking all this stuff because not a lot of information is available about this in the public domain...so only people who tinker with Macs on a daily basis would be able to answer my questions. Thanks for helping me out and curing my curiosity!

I have a macbookpro which has a tiny storage of 128gb. And the worst thing is the ‘other’ storage is eating it up. It was 77gb of other before i did ‘first aid’ to the disk. But it still has 55gb used by others. I cant even download big sur because storage is full. How do i get rid of this 55gbs of garbage.

I am using a mid-2012 13” Unibody MacBook Pro, running OS X El Capitan (10.11.6), and my system has 8 GB of 1600 MHz DDR3 RAM, an Intel Core i7 processor, and the original 500 GB 5400 rpm Hard Disk Drive (yuck). Pretty standard and outdated setup. I recently purchased a brand new 1 TB Samsung EVO 870 SSD for a substantial speed and storage upgrade. Currently, my 500 GB HDD has a little over 400 GB of content on it. (I’ve already posted about this problem here, but this is an update to my original post.) When I first got the SSD, I formatted it for macOS using Disk Utility, cloned my HDD to it, and installed it in my MacBook Pro. It managed to boot and load my desktop and even open a couple programs, but it was running very slowly—notably worse than my slow HDD. It felt similar to an EVO 850 I’d previously used with this laptop that had become corrupted and started performing erratically. I put this on the backburner for about a month because it’s such a headache and feels like a wasted investment. I started working on it again in the past couple days and still feel like I’m slamming my head against a wall. I wiped the EVO 870 clean and did a fresh install of OS X El Capitan using a USB installer I prepared. The install was successful, so I went forward with setting up my Mac as a new user without opting to migrate any data over right away. And again, the performance was just as slow and periodically interrupted as before. Once I logged in, the first thing that happened was the Keyboard Setup Assistant automatically ran. I was prompted to press the key immediately to the right of the left Shift key (the letter “Z”). I pressed “Z” on the built-in keyboard, but was met with the error message, “Your keyboard cannot be identified. You have pressed a key on your Apple keyboard. Please press the keys on the keyboard that can't be identified.” Nothing I did seemed to do anything; every keystroke resulted in the “nope” error sound macOS makes when you try to do something you can’t, so I quit that application. Then, everything I did with my keyboard—like trying to open Spotlight Search using ⌘ + Space—resulted in no response from macOS. This also seemed to include trackpad clicks, although that may have just been the system lagging. I don’t know what to do. I’ve taken every step I’ve been advised to take. I tried cloning my HDD to the SSD. I tried a fresh install of OS X on the SSD. Samsung’s Magician software is only compatible with Windows, so that was never an option for me. I even bought a 2 TB backup hard drive to help keep my data safe in case anything goes wrong with my original HDD. This 1 TB Samsung EVO 870 SSD was purchased brand-new from Amazon in January and has yet to work properly. SSDs are supposed to be snappy and responsive, yet this has been anything but. The 30-day return window for Amazon has passed, so I think at this point I might contact Samsung about getting a replacement drive. If that doesn’t work out, I think I’m gonna say the hell with it—time to just buy a new computer. I’ve been stuck using a slow laptop since 2014 and I’m beyond sick and tired of it. If anyone has any ideas about what the problem might be, or if there might be any compatibility issues, please let me know. I’m feeling exasperated at this point.

**WARNING** This toturial aims for people who have enough skills and experiences with general Overclocking, BIOS tweaking and Hardware mantainence skills. If you are not capable of doing stuff like this, DO NOT FOLLOW THIS TOTURIAL. Any hardware changes MAY result in permanant damage to your device please think twice before doing this. Any damanges caused by this thread will not be my fault,And I will not be responsibie for it, since I've mentioned all the risks. English is not my first language, please notify me if you find something that's hard to understand. ---- Hello everyone! I've recently came across many forums and threads about gaming on a 16-inch intel Macbook Pro. To my suprise, after doing some of the techniques mentions in those threads, gaming performance does improved alot on my Macbook, But for some games (Like Apex Legends) it was still not enough. What I've initially did was: 1.Opening the machine up and add thermal pads to VRMs. 2.Add external coolings to the bottom side of the machine where VRMs transfer their heat to the metal chasis. 3.(Specifially for Apex Legends) apply cfg file editing for extreme low graphics. After those tweaks, my game runs at doubles the framerate most of the time. With a external 144hz montior attached from typeC port, I get to play overwatch at steady 145FPS (capped to display refreshrate) But for Apex Legends, the game runs smooth at 145fps cappped for the first couple of seconds, then drops down to the 70s soon. also whenever there is smoke, gunfights or more player models being rendered, the fps drops to painfully 40fps under 900P, LOWEST. To me, having consistant framerate at above 130fps is required. so I did some more experiments and testings, only to find that whenever the game has been running over for sometime, the GPU clock speed drops down below to around 500-600Mhz, Which is NOT ideal for gaming. To solve this, I used two tools. 1.QuickCPU 2.MorePowerTool To those who know what you're doing and have had some experiences using those softwares, I will explain this short. First of all, you need to fire up MorePowerTool , load up the GPUBIOS dump from GPU-Z and go to the Frequency tab, input what I have showed here: Note: this is the result i have after the first test where it is stable. if you are not happy with the result of locking GPUclock at 1.25Ghz, Maybe try 1.45Ghz.Anything ABOVE 1450Mhz is Overlocking your GPU, which is NOT recommended for a laptop like this, considering the thermal design is already poor, not to mention the additional power needed for GPU to reach higher clockspeed, which our CPU will get hungry about later. After tweaking the numbers, hit Write SPPT and reboot. Next, fireup QuickCPU, go to Advanced CPU settings→Speed Shift and change everything to what I've showed here: This is for limiting the CPU Frequency to a acceptable place where it won't be too slow to drag the 144fps target nor too high to be useless and eating more power, making more heat. After all this, hit Apply and save it as a profile to auto apply. Now, fire up any game that you won't be able to run at steady 60fps before and get smooth, steady no stutter 144fps experience. For me, Overwatch now runs at around 260 to 280fps if I want it to, but i prefer capping at 145. Apex Legends have the most improvement for me. before doing this i get only 40 to 70 fps most of the time, with potato PC cfg settings and 900P display resolution. Now, i can reach steady 145fps most of the time, not dropping even when heavy battle is happening with multiple squads fighting, using nades, smokes... under Low settings without potatoPC cfg settings, 900P. it will drops down to 130fps under 1080P, but i think if you limit GPUclockspeed to 1.45Ghz it will be the same as 900P. Finally, this toturial is mainly aimed for people who already have their macbook thermal upgraded with the VRM thermal pads. doing such without the VRM thermal pads may result in huge CPU performance drops that made everthing unplayabe, or even shut down the device due to VRM protection.

Hi all! I'd love your help with something! I don't know much about computers, (But i'm trying to learn!!) and unfortunately my current laptop is starting to give up on me, so it's about time to start thinking about an upgrade. I'm currently working on the 2017 macbook air and I would like to stick with another Apple laptop because....well because of the same reason as everyone else...the ecosystem runs my whole life and I'm not ready to give it up. I'm also living between several cities atm, and so I have to have a machine that can come with me wherever I go. My issues with my current laptop are 2 fold: #1 I'm constantly running low on storage (I only have 70GB available atm, and I'm constantly having to review my files to give me enough storage) #2 When I bought my current laptop I thought I was only going to need it for word processing and other really simple tasks. Now though, I've developed a new love for photography and light video editing and I also have to work with some pretty large files for my degree. These really large files + the 8000 chrome tabs that I seem to have open at all times = one very unhappy and barely functional computer By all accounts, the new M1 Pros are quite good but I want to make sure that my new machine has a little more firepower so that it lasts me for a little while longer than my current laptop did. I've got my eye on the upgraded version of the 14" macbook pro (10-Core CPU, 16-Core GPU, 16GB RAM, 1TB SSD) which seems like a pretty good setup! But here is my dilemma...do I further upgrade one of these components to even further "future proof" this laptop? And if I should upgrade a component....which one? I can afford to upgrade any one of the upgradable components on the Mac (Processor, SSD or RAM)....but JUST ONE (i'm not made of money over here ). Because of the issues with my current laptop I'm leaning towards upgrading the SSD (from 1TB to 2TB) or the RAM (From 16GB to 32GB), but I'm not sure if it's worth it and if it is worth it, I'm not sure which one should take priority.... I'd love your advice/thoughts!

Summary Benchmarked several real world Android Studio tasks 2019 16" Mac w/2.4ghz Intel i9 (8 core)–32gb RAM 2021 14" Mac w/M1 Pro (10 core)— 32gb RAM Desktop (Pop_OS!) — 4.2ghz AMD 2950x (16 core) — 64gb RAM Android Studio Invalidate Caches and Restart 2021 Mac w/M1 Pro: 97 seconds 2019 Mac w/i9: 177 seconds (82% slower) 2950x: 195 seconds (101% slower) Consecutive Builds on Battery - shows battery life and thermal throttling: Quotes My thoughts The variation in the build times for the battery life / thermal throttling test looks like pretty strong evidence that it's possible to get the M1 Pro into thermal throttling, if you load it up long enough. Sources https://gpeal.medium.com/the-m1-pro-for-android-engineers-a144093aa1ec

Budget (including currency): cheap Country: canada Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: gaming mostly playing battle field and next gen gaming. Other details (existing parts lists, whether any peripherals are needed, what you're upgrading from, when you're going to buy, what resolution and refresh rate you want to play at, etc): Razor core v1 GPU compatibility mac book pro 13 inch 2017 non touch bar Big Sur 11.3.1 got my eyes on a Razor core v1 (500watt) for pretty cheap. wanting it to work with my mac book pro 13 inch 2017 i have done quite a bit of research just want to be steered in the right direction my questions are, what are the problems with these egpu's? what is compatible with my macbook for gpu's is it worth it ? can i run it on big sur ? what would be the best gpu for my set up (would like to be able to run games on ultra or 1080p no less the 60 fps min) will the egpu be able to charge my macbook? can i run games off the macbook display?

we could see mini-LED on MacBook Pro model, which are reportedly are being launched at the upcoming WWDC event, they will also feature a new design and colours (probably) and also ports and MagSafe are making a comeback, they will also have next generation Apple M series ARM CPU, (M1X). Quotes My thoughts This is very exciting news, I think the mini-LED is awesome(based on reviews I saw), the blacks are incredible, and also it prevents burn-in, which is a major concern with using OLED. Although Apple reportedly will use OLED for their iPad lineup next year according to some reports. Sources 9to5Mac - https://9to5mac.com/2021/06/01/mini-led-macbook-pro-shipments-reportedly-expected-in-third-quarter/

Well, the title says the first and foremost: I regret everything. Nevertheless, I'm in this hole now and so I need to make camp. I have a 16" MacBook Pro with an i9-9880H and a 5600M. Despite the 5600M being a very competent chip, I failed to realise something: it puts heat into the same cooler as the CPU. When gaming, they have to share the same credit card cooler and it has some, ahem, interesting side effects. Namely, the CPU will almost never go above 2Ghz when gaming. It'll usually just sit around 1.78Ghz or 1.67Ghz. Sometimes, if it's feeling extra miserable, it'll even go down to 1.3Ghz which is a very fun experience. I'm well aware this is a cooling issue because Throttlestop is telling me BDPROCHOT basically constantly. Fun fact: the MacBook Pro 16" will actually throttle even if the CPU is well below 90 degrees celsius. Why? Well, the VRMs overheat! Fun, that. Anyway, question of the day: would an eGPU, effectively removing the 5600M from the cooling problem, at least get me to base clock while gaming? My reasoning is simply that if the internal GPU is doing nothing, it aught to give the CPU more breathing room, right? I mean, it'd still be like moving from a rubber mask to a pillow - still a smothering that will eventually chime the bells of death by warpage - but an improvement? If anyone has access to at least similar hardware, I'd love to hear what your results were.

I have a 2018 MacBook Pro 15" and I wanted to see if I can use it to charge all my devices fast. I want to charge my iPhone, watch, and iPad and I know they all will charge, I just want to know if anyone knew how many watts the MacBook can give out for each.

I was curious to compare new M1 processor with AMD and Intel processors I watch some videos and read some articles on web. In one article I find out that M1 can beat core i9 10900k in single core performance. I don't think it real but can any verify it.

Hi!! I've had my macbook air since 2015, it has an 1,6 GHz Intel Core i5, 4 GB RAM and the motherboard is an Intel HD Graphics 6000 1536 MB. I got it when i was finishing HS, and right now with college and photo editing it just doens't cut it for me anymore. I was thinking of getting the new Mabook Pro 13' with: Intel Core I5 quad-core at 2,0 GHz 10th generation processor Intel Iris plus graphics 16 GB LPDDR4X at 3733 MHz RAM 512 GB of storage The Intel core i7 quad-core at 2,3 GHz 10th generation, turbo boost until 4,1 GHz processor would cost about 350 euros more btw. What to do you guys think, is it a good choice? I want a laptop that will last me a good time too. Thanks!!

Adapter Image I have a MacBook Pro usc adapter to USB type A, HDMI, SD card slot and others. I has two ports, connecting to the only two ports on my Mac. I wanted to know if anyone could explain why they couldn't have just used a single port for the adapter. It does provide two USB-C ports on the other end of the adapter, If that helps anyone explain

Untitled (1).mp4 I have a MacBook pro 2018 15 inch 16gb 256gb variant. I noticed a light color fade on moving(along the hinge lifting) the display on my MacBook around an year ago but everything seemed fine except for that. I did not do anything about it since apple repairs could be pretty costly. around 5 days ago another problem came up on moving the display like lifting the screen that the screen seemed to change color and looked more like an old negative picture reel. I got it inspected on a local shop and he told me that just the internal were very dirty with dust that was causing the issue and the problem is resolved. It worked just fine that day The next day I saw that the display[apple logo] didn't pop up on boot sometimes it did, sometimes it didn't while the keyboard lit up sound came and touch bar worked too. The display if came looked weird and sliced up. I again submitted it and this time to the authentic apple service center and the said they need to change the whole display panel. I am attaching pictures and videos of the boot. I think that the issue is of the ribbon display cable. Can anyone help me with this?

Hi guys, I recently downloaded Mac's Fan Control onto my base model 14" macbook pro but I noticed that it is reporting 8 performance cores and 2 efficiency cores when it should only be reporting 6 performance cores. Can anyone help explain the discrepancy? It also reported 8 performance cores in menu bar stats 3.

My macbook pro will only start booting when i manually press alt and goto the select menu, if don't it will display no bootable device any ideas to just boot it right off?

I’m trying to help a coworker get his MacBook Pro up and running again. He has apparently already wiped his computer but whenever he tries to do an internet recovery he gets the error -3001f anyone else had this hopes or know a fix for it? I’m stumped as I don’t use Mac computers. The model number is A1278 if that helps any.

Ditching the Multi Screen Desktop for Multi Screen Macbook Pro M2 Max WhatsApp Video 2023-02-02 at 19.36.19.mp4

Apple (might be) still not fixed the i9 Thermalgate issue. What are your thought about it?

Hi guys. My MacBook is less than 4 months old and I'm having a problem with the display where there's a thick line on the left side( it was in the middle first then after a day it came to the left side and now the middle line is gone) which has a different shade or darker display (pic included). What could be the fix? Thanks. Stay safe.

I have a MacBook Pro 15in 2019 and as we all know it has a lot of thermal and cooling issues. I was thinking of getting a new bottom for my computer and venting the bottom right above the fans to get better air flow. Has anyone done this? Does it help with thermal throttling, cooling, and performance?

I am a software/web developer working mainly with AWS currently but that could change. My current laptop is an asus zenbook with a core i5-7200u and 8 gigs of ram. It is dual booting ubuntu 18.04.4 LTS and windows 10. I rarely use windows 10 now because I need Linux for work and don't bother rebooting to windows often. I have used WSL in windows and my previous experience was not very good. I have been looking to move to Mac OS because of some of the better support that is offered to that OS for developers and some creature comforts such as better display scaling compared to ubuntu. I definitely need 16 gigs of RAM. But should I go for the 10th gen chips on the new macbook pro 13 inch or the 8th gen ones? Or would you say there is no point in upgrading (please consider the OS as an important reason to do so as well)?