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Good day LTT forum, I have a home network reliability problem and am trying to add some redundancy, and would like your advice on how good this plan seems (including input from those who have done something similar). Problem: My ISP, the only broadband provider to my house, is unreliable and has no incentive to improve their service. Due to my semi-remote location, LTE signal for at least cell phones (Verizon and T-Mobile towers tested) is weak. This impacts me because I work remotely and downtime is costly. I have asked every local ISP for wired and wireless options, and they either don't provide service, it's dialup-only, or they didn't even understand what I was looking for. Current Setup: I have an all-Ubiquiti network layout in my house (USG for the router, notable for having 2 WAN ports, an 8 port switch, and 2 wireless APs). Critical gear (work laptop, main desktop) is wired directly to the switch. All home users' cell phones are enabled to use wifi calling and can communicate effectively even if they get no signal. I have many reasons for not wanting to use a phone or a 'hotspot', both for performance reasons and the task of manually failing over each device to that new 'network' during an outage, along with pricing concerns (I am trying to keep monthly fees low and flexible). Proposed Solution: While searching for any possible way to essentially "add an antenna and a second connection" to my router, I came across this: https://unifi-lte.ui.com/ It's essentially exactly what I am looking for, an antenna that plugs into my network and acts as a secondary WAN. The pricing seems very reasonable for how much data I would use during an outage state (given numerous prior 'tests'). This solution uses AT&T LTE in the US, which claims to have 4G coverage for my location (not tested) Concerns: Location. My network closet is currently in the basement where LTE signal is the weakest. I'm guessing I would need to install a high-gain antenna or hope that AT&T LTE is coverage is solid. Connection: This wasn't clear from the instructions; would I plug this device into the second WAN port on my USG Router, or any available PoE port of the switch? Routing: If the answer to question 2 is "PoE port on switch", would I be correct in assuming that this device would do normal "router" tasks or work with the existing USG? Failover time: to anyone who has used this solution, how long does this failover time take? Do I have to take any manual actions? Questions: Do you all think that this is a good option? Has anyone else facing a similar concern used any alternatives as redundancy? Am I missing anything here? Thank you in advance!

Hi everyone, please bear with me here as I've never had or needed to use a mobile data dongle/adapter until this week. Reason I'm asking: I'm starting a new job next week but my WAN connection has started being super slow and very unreliable recently. I emailed my ISP who told me they are doing region-wide upgrades for the next 12-18 months so I should expect frequent outages. Amazing timing! I immediately looked for another ISP but it's this one or nothing as I'm in a rural area. So, I went to a store and picked up a 3G/4G dongle but I could barely even connect! When I managed to load a speed test I was getting a 10,000-40,000ms ping with a speed so slow it couldn't register, it just showed 0.00Mb/s. Of course, I immediately took it back to cancel it. I want to try with another network that supposedly has the best coverage in this country and some people have recommended. Question(s): Is there any possible way I can help or improve the signal on a mobile data dongle? Would the old improve your WIFI hack work by making a dish out of aluminum foil with the dongle placed in the middle? Or what about connecting it by a USB extension cable and putting the dongle outside the house in a waterproof box? Or same idea but in the attic/loft? Anything that could improve it? Appreciate the help.

Does anyone here know how low-band 5G achieves higher speeds with the same frequencies as 4G/LTE? Many carriers are building out low band 5G in the sub 1Ghz band that still manage to achieve really high speeds despite their low frequencies. I'm assuming this has something to do with the wireless implementation in software and nothing to do with the RF itself. Could anyone else shed some light on this for me please? T-Mobile 5G using 600Mhz band: https://www.theverge.com/2019/12/2/20991566/tmobile-nationwide-5g-600mhz-launch-samsung-oneplus

Hello everyone, I'll make this quick for everyone. I've recently bought the mentioned watched and I've decided to evaluate its battery performance. Samsung claims 40h. Lets see how it fairs with my settings. I'll list these in no particular order. Settings 1. LTE - auto on (on when not connected to the phone, off when connected) 2. AOD - off 3. Brightness - auto, slider to about 65% 4. Battery saving - off 5. tap to wake display - off 6. tilt to wake display - on 7. gestures for answering calls, opening apps etc - off 8. Sync sensor data with Samsung health platform - all on 9. Constant heartbeat monitoring - off 10. Heartbeat and oxygen monitoring during sleep - on (does a check every 10min) 11. Sleep monitoring - on 12. Auto detect workout activity - on 13. Full sync including location, wifi, bluetooth with phone - on (this means that supported apps will get extended control through the watch (google maps, youtube..) 14. Apps deleted - Samsung global goals I reckon these settings are on the upper edge of "get the most out of the watch without killing the battery". No power user stuff, no intensive training with watch features, no running it on LTE for hours on end, no google maps or youtube music with buds and so on.. If I fill it up completely before I go to bed, I get to around 50-55% charge by the next evening. And I don't fill it up completely anyways.. I usually stay between 85-30% charge, which is best for battery longevity. I reckon those 40h of claimed battery life are easily achievable if you're not a power user buying this as your fitness tracker that will run on LTE all day long. In any case, you'll be charging it every day. It does NOT have a 2 day battery life. But - top it off for 30-45min every day while you take a shower and get ready for bed.. and you'll probably only need to fully charge every 4-5 days. It's a good watch. Feature rich. I've also crosschecked the sensor data with medical grade equipment (heart rate, pressure, oxygen..) and it's very accurate. Usually within a few percentage points. Also - my watch has all the latest updates which presumably improve battery life significantly. I have no reference points on that front but hey, I'm not complaining! If you have any questions, I'll be happy to answer them. I'll also update this post if something new comes up. Cheers

Hello Guys, I have an Cable Connection for my Internet @ Home, 10 to n times a days the Internet is gone, Cable Synchronization stands and the Connection is there, but the ISP doesn't send me Data anymore. The Upload Channels Still works. I want a Automated System to route my Networks Internet Requests into my LTE Connection ( USB Stick) in case The Cable Connection does not work (ping google.com for Example). Best Case Szenario would be a router with 2 Lan in (Cable, LTE) and 1 LAN out for Local connection. I can't afford to spend more that 200€ on this. Any Suggestions for a Hardware box or Raspberry Guide to built a Solution? Thank you in advance for your help.

Hello everyone I have this TP-Link MR200 v4 router with 4G SIM card. It kinda works but when I start to download on steam or open 4K vid (basically full load) it just turns off the signal and I need to manually restart router. I contacted my provider Orange and received new router, same problem. Guy at Orange told me that when signal drops from 4G to 3G then router does not switch correctly between them or when there is just full signal loss, they just do not reconnect at all. I read all the possible articles about how a big piece of crap MR200, 400 or 600 is and how they solved those drops with new modem. D-Link DWR-921 - this one was suggested and it should work good, but I rather prefer ASUS brand and I want something better quality with better UI, smaller etc. (also I found that ASUS cheaper on amazon) anyway my question is: Will this ASUS work correctly and autoswitch between 3G and 4G and will reconnect when power loss? I do not want to buy both and test them so I am asking if anyone had their hands on the ASUS 4G-N12 B1. Thanks.

I am running a pixel 4a and recently installed resurrection remix OS to the device. After a couple of hours I noticed that I was only connected to T-Mobile EDGE mobile data, which allows calls and messages, but is too slow to load webpages. Does anyone know how to get LTE working properly?

Hi folks, I would like to ask for your advice. Since the whole COVID-19 situation many of us are working remotely and it seems this has put pressure on broadband providers across the UK, and my DSL connection has been very unstable these last couple of weeks. To fix this I am thinking of using 4G as an alternative, or back up to when the network drops speed. I found out that some DSL routers have USB input, where a 4G dongle can be plugged in, and the 4G connection can then be shared with devices either via WiFi or Ethernet. However I have no idea : What routers/brands support this functionality. The technical name of this functionality (combining 4G with DSL, or multi source connection) How does the functionality work? does it create 2 WiFi networks for example? how would that work with devices connected via ethernet? Is there a way to have the router alternate between 4G and DSL automatically depending on which is providing a more stable connection? if there's a router that can do this automatically (similar to a feature that is on smartphone, that switches to 4G if the WiFi is bad) that would be ideal. Appreciate your help with this.

Hi guys! I just wanted to ask if the reliability of a DSL connection is worth the slower internet speed compared to LTE (received via a Huawei Net Cube 3.1 and then transferred to my Desktop PC via Cable). I currently have a 40 Mbit connection over LTE, but get only about 17 Mbit on average. My fear is that when moving into a big city, the connection will be better but the speed slower due to more people using it at the same time. Thanks for your insights/thoughts in advance!

So I use my mobile hotspot for gaming but every time I get a call on my phone the data instantly cuts off and I get disconnected from matches is there any solution to this?

http://www.anandtech.com/show/11196/mwc-2017-spreadtrum-launches-8core-intel-airmontbased-soc-with-cat-7-lte-for-smartphones Spreadtrum's 8-Core Airmont SoC SC9861G-IA CPU Cores 8 × Intel Airmont at up to 2 GHz GPU PowerVR GT7200 Imaging Capabilities Up to 26 MP, up to two 13 MP sensors Video 4Kp30, HEVC Display Controller 2560 × 1440 Modem TD-LTE/FDD LTE/TD-SCDMA/WCDMA/EGG LTE Category 7 (DL: 300Mbps, UL: 100Mbps) Process Technology 14 nm This actually looks super interesting. These are the latest generation Cherry trail cores (Surface 3) that are in the latest Atom generation. Intel have struggled in the past because of lack of built in LTE, this looks to have been addressed this time around. No word on TDP but this chip look pretty high end on the CPU side, unfortunately that GPU isn't really competitive, it has 1/3 of the cores of the iPhone 6s GPU.

A consortium of industry giants have gotten together and hammered out an LTE-like network that uses unlicensed wifi spectrums. Right now it focuses on the 5Ghz frequency range and will allow the building of an LTE-like network using wireless access points. The current spec is targeted more for industrial IoT, airports, and shipping ports. The current 1.0 spec is still under review but the alliance is already working on revision 1.1 which will include enhancements to coverage and additional bands in the 2.4GHz space. Not only could this provide some interesting competition and build-outs in the near future, it might also make for some interesting LTT videos too https://insights.hpe.com/articles/you-can-build-your-own-lte-network-over-wi-fi-frequencies-well-not-quite-yet-1705.html https://slashdot.org/story/17/05/21/1739236/soon-youll-be-able-to-build-your-own-4g-network-over-wi-fi-frequencies

Hello all, Long post, but I would really appreciate any help you can give. I am at a dead end. So due to locational restraints, my only viable option for a decent high speed connection is 4G/LTE. Presently, the best I can do is a 1.5Mb/s DSL connection. It's absolute trash at the best of times, and if more than one person wants to use the internet at a time, forget about it. So I recently switched to AT&T's unlimited data plan, which allows "unlimited" data usage to both mine and my fiance's phones (22GB per device per month before they start throttling speeds based on cell tower traffic). So far so good. We also added a third SIM card to the plan: This SIM would ordinarily go into their little mobile hotspot thingy that you can buy at the ATT store for $150. I didn't want to use this dinky little modem, so I purchased a more robust modem that has ethernet ports and options for future antenna expansion. The specific modem I purchased is the D-Link DWR-921. The DWR-921 had pretty good reviews. What research I did before I purchased the modem seemed to reveal that this was a solid unit that would do everything I needed it to. I could just pop in the SIM card, and I'd be up and running off of my 4G network. It wasn't as premium as some of the modems from Asus for example, but I didn't want to spend much more than $150 on this setup. Amazon link: https://www.amazon.com/LTE-HSPA-ROUTER-DUAL-MODE/dp/B00BN36NMM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1496330631&sr=8-1&keywords=d-link+dwr-921 Product page link: http://www.dlink.com/uk/en/products/dwr-921-4g-lte-router So I ordered from a UK vendor that I hadn't heard of before. They seemed legit and had a professional website. They were cool, and it only took about 3 days to get to Texas. There was some weird labeling on the box that was a little bit fishy (it said a different model #), but I have no reason to believe that I received a bootleg unit or anything like that. I assumed that this was kind of a warehouse surplus stocking type scenario. The unit powers up and detects a signal as it should. So I connect it to my PC via ethernet, and follow the instructions to set up the network. I open chrome and type in the IP address listed in the manual. This takes me to the D-Link router setup page. The same page that I assume all D-Link routers deal with. This is where things start to get weird: I don't have internet access yet. The internet icon in the lower righthand corner (Windows 10) shows the ethernet symbol with the yellow triangle, NOT the red X that you see when your computer is unplugged. I go through the setup Wizard, which prompts me to select the type of connection (4G), and then it asks me to set up a username and password, select encryption type, blah blah blah, standard stuff. After selecting "4G/LTE" for my connection type, it gives me the option to auto-detect my cellular network, or to manually enter all of the information. The auto detect feature does not seem to do anything for me, so I start filling out the options manually. It asks me to select country, and then carrier. So after selecting USA, I open the drop-down menu for carriers. They have a couple I have never heard of before, a bunch for T-Mobile, a few for Cingular (who was acquired by AT&T some 10 years or so ago), and an 'Other' option. It then asks for additional information such as 'Dial Up Number', which defaults to *99#. I have tried that as well as the phone number I see associated with the SIM card on my devices page on the ATT website. I still show 0% connection, and it is not even displaying that it detects a network at all. The signal light on the front of the modem is blinking orange, which I take to mean that it has a signal, just not a very strong one. BUT WAIT - There's more. So I called AT&T tech support, because I thought that the SIM might not be activated. The SIM card IS activated, but the IMEI number that they had associated with it was not the IMEI number of my router. I assume that the store tech just assigned it an obligatory one that was SUPPOSED to correspond with the mobile hotpot thing that they sell. So I give the tech support person the IMEI number printed on the bottom of my unit. They tell me that this is a 2G IMEI number! This makes no since to me, because the DWR-921 is definitely a 4g/LTE modem. Whatever. I tell them to go ahead and change it, just to see if it works. It does not. So I call D-Link customer support and make it to a tech services guy. He tells me that the D-Link DWR-921 is not an officially supported product (at least by their tech support), and that it is the sort of device that a phone company would provide to their customers. I don't know why this is, as this product can be purchased on Amazon, and can be found on D-Link's website (although the .uk site only, NOT the US website). So that's where I am right now... Did I just not do my homework well enough and end up with a modem that doesn't support AT&T's network? Is there a chance I got some weird bootleg unit (2G IMEI number????) or something? Any help would be greatly appreciated. I have little to no networking experience, and I just want to play video games without spiking up to 500 ping. Thanks.

Sup LTT! Well after all the excitement from my building satellite dish LTE signal boosters out of spare parts thread, I've been really looking forward to making it back out to the middle of no where to continue testing. So much so that this time, we brought two almost six foot long yagis with us! This was turned into a video for YouTube that covers the testing of a MOFI4500-4GXeLTE-V2 cellular modem/router in it's stock configuration, behind the satellite dish LTE booster from the thread before, & with all it's antennas being replaced for it's new "extreme build" taking it out of the realm of practical & into the realm of madness! Each different setup is ran through an HTML5 speed test with the modem status page open to show off the signal values live. I also discuss the Time To Live changes in the most recent versions of the proprietary OpenWRT builds that MOFI releases for their products & how it does a much better job spoofing the original cellular device then before. This actually has a rather large impact on latency across the board so FTW! It's run time is just shy of twelve minutes & is overall meant to be viewed in a humorous non-technical to death light. I'm not a professional YouTuber or anything of the sort so quality wise I'm an amateur one man band but I still think it's pretty watchable. It's presented in 4K @ 60FPS! Feel free to check it out here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IddB63xWT7A For a build log / parts list the current version is utilizing: 1x - MOFI4500-4GXeLTE-V2 2x - ZDA 698-755 MHz Yagi Antenna (16 dBi) 2x - LMR400 Jumper (25 feet) (N Male to SMA Male) 2x - Gas Tube Lightning Surge Protector (N-female to N-male bulkhead) (0-3 GHz) (90V) 2x - Alfa 2.4ghz WiFi SMA Antenna (9dBi) 1x - Linco 10ft Studio Stand (+2 misc random wood blocks for mounting) 1x - Unlimited Data SIM Card (T-Mobile) Though it's very important to note that this list is missing two four foot copper poles plus the additional wire required to properly ground those antennas. (this step is not featured in the video as a final location was yet to be determined & dicking around was at hand first) As mentioned in the video I stopped into Collins Communications and spoke with them at length about the importance of properly grounding such devices. They also shared a number of pretty frightening lightning strike situations they've dealt with in the past so do not downplay the importance of that step. I'm going to try and film the installation of this setup at it's final location so that people can see what it takes to do it properly. Not to be a spoiler but in the video our original speeds on the unit itself were 1.9mbs down. Behind the sat. dish we pulled 3.35mbs down. With Yagi power we pulled 17.59mbs down before any refinement or adjustment. (just first location it was put up, pointed out a window, and turned on with both yagi's in vertical positions) Overnight as the video was uploading (10gb video!) I noticed my steam client downloaded a bunch of game updates at 25mbs!! I really wish I would've caught results like that on the speed test while recording. I know speeds will once again come up when we get it outside the house, properly mounted, & aimed. I don't know how long it'll take for that video to come out so for now this will have to hold everybody over! Also I'd like to note that I'm not in this field at all, I'm just a nerd having fun with some gear. If you're looking at all this and laughing as a man of the industry, feel feel to reply with a total knock out educational post! I promise you it will be read & any suggestions you have will be tried as soon as I can make it back out there to the middle of no where. One thing I've really enjoyed about posting these threads is the various responses from different communities. The age ranges are just all over the place from ArsTechnica, to LinusTechTips, to SmallBandwidthInnovation, to even places like /r/Networking. Alot of great ideas have just came out of no where thanks to the beauty of the internet. I'm always willing to look like an idiot infront of the people if it means progress gets made. So to everybody raging over the fact I should be pointing these at a major city, or tilting them differently, or just wanting to call me a n00b, well #solidbois, hit me up with that info on how to do it better. Anyways much love everybody, I hope you enjoy! 'Gobby

Introduction: Sup LTT! I swear every time my buddy finds his way over here we spend a couple days just nerding out to the max. Projects that aren't even on our table just spontaneously happen. This time is no exception, woke up with no intention of screwing around with the LTE modem for this place but now we've built & spent all day testing two different satellite dish based boosters. The only empirical data we could gather through this process was my modem's status page which gave us Signal Strength in dBm & then a Signal Quality rating as well. Though after a day spent trying all sorts of crazy things, watching those two numbers constantly, and trying to handle this in a scientific manner we've came up with some killer results. Night and day difference! Technically speaking, maybe this is all occurring for reasons we don't properly understand. Though the signal strength/quality gain is hard to argue with & it's noticeably faster for everybody across the network, so I'd call that a win. The Setup: This location is out in the middle of national forest, the closest cell tower is roughly five miles away. Forget power so everything is ran off generators / batteries. Options for decent internet out here are super limited, I've tried all the satellite internet options available, of which they all suck terrible ass. Finally I got temp phones with all the carriers that had towers around the area & just started speed testing the crap out of them. This worked so well in comparison to anything else I'd tried that I bought MOFI4500-4GXeLTE-V2's for all my locations, got unlimited data plans, and said welcome to the LTE revolution. Now these things are pretty cool they've got lots of neat features & run OpenWRT. As I mentioned in stevenkan's 4G/LTE hotspot thread, their customer service is absolutely terrible, plus their is $40 chinese versions of these exact models out there already. So I don't want to sound like a mofi fanboi even though I have enjoyed using their equipment so far. Previous owners of the property had satellite television & left a dish attached to a cement block outside. Plus I still had a dish left over from trying out satellite internet options, one they never picked up or wanted back. Looking around this morning after having coffee we found this lovely guide; DIY 4G LTE Yagi Antenna in 10 Steps for $10 which was very inspiring. Though I tell you what, I don't have any of that gear, am out in the middle of no where for the holiday weekend, & am not driving the two+ hours back to the closest town to find those parts. Regardless if it's ten bucks or not, time & gas alone says no. So we started thinking what we could do that would have any effect at all. So we used Antenna Search.com to find the exact location of the only tower around & started moving the modem all over the place. Got the ladder out & tried mounting it to the roof on the second floor, sitting it in all the window seals, moving electronics, etc. The signal strength would range from -105 through -110 dBm & the quality would jump around like crazy but generally average from 15-20. Outside the numbers it just lists this generically as "poor signal quality" in the modem status page. So we went out and took the dishes off both the old dish system & the old internet system. The when mounted them to studio lighting & green screen poles. Technically these are from Linco & are their 10ft editions. Not really sure what we were doing we used zip ties as a quick an easy solution to mounting things since we could undo them in a heart beat. We also tried to find other guides on the internet for people who have done this, most of which range widely in quality, generally on the terrible side. Most people that seemed more educated suggested mimicking the distance & angles perfectly from how the dish was originally used so we made sure to attempt that first before moving basically every piece possible into every possible position then watching for a while to see if the signal numbers improved at all. This was a day long process, we didn't want to act to quickly on anything though we also learned A LOT along the way. Whole lot of reinventing the wheel and just being noobs going on as curiosity truly was the name of the day. I kept taking pictures but in low light situations my phone did not do that well, I'll be sure to include them though so everybody can see how we progressed. Interesting Notes: The smaller television dish is actually a horizontal oval, we kept kidding it was the 16:9 dish. Though it was also more concave then the internet dish. Much lighter and easier to work with that's for sure. The receiver on it actually had three points laid out horizontal that matched the wider surface area of the dish. This turned out to be important later on while we were trying to get the two cellular antennas perfectly aligned for each dish's nuances. On the other hand the internet dish was easily three inches larger on the left and right plus was an actual circle so much wider top to bottom. Though it was almost flat in shape & it was used with a single receiver pointed right at the center of the dish. The weight of this unit actually made it much harder to move around & test, plus when fully extended ten feet into the air it wobbled pretty concernedly. It was so much harder to try and get the antennas aligned on this dish as well, the signal quality through the whole day was just worse no matter what we did, how we mounted things, or prayed to the cellular gods. At the end of the day after slowly testing everything we could in different locations, adding wood blocks to change tilt, you name it. We started to see some pretty common themes that greatly impacted performance & ones that hindered it to laughable conditions. Finishing the day out with the smaller TV dish about five feet off the ground pointing out a glass door. We would also take our cell phones with apps like Network Signal Info & see if we couldn't boost them as well, which we could. So it was a decent second and third device to have around for playing with during the performance verification steps of each stage of what we were trying to do. I asked if he had any comments for this post & he said that he was really surprised with how precise you have to be & how much tiny amounts of movement mattered to overall signal quality. Getting the antennas to work with the dish is moving everything tiny amounts until you hit just the right spot. At that, he also said, it was neat even with the modem's slow status page poll rates you could see almost immediately when you found the sweet spot. Jumping on that point it was amazing to me as well. If you put the whole rig ten feet in the air and slowly worked it down inch by inch you'd find a huge different between say 7'6" and 7'. I didn't really expect that myself given I'd just been screwing these units into the ceilings / walls of places & walking away pretty happy. The Results: We managed to gain +10 dBm on our signal strength & +10 on the signal quality as well. Though one of the biggest differences is it just doesn't jump around like crazy. It use to spike left and right, no stability. Now it just sits at -98 / -10 with slight changes over time, mainly to the quality rating not the strength. Inside the software this took it from two bars of connectivity at a "poor" rating, to three bars at a "fair" rating. The entire network is considerably snappier & our speed test latency dropped about 25% on average. (from around 100ms to 75ms) Overall for something that cost no money & has no power going to it I'd say that's a massive win. Plus now it's all mobile! I can take this thing with me to other locations. Spin it, raise it, lower it, change it's pitch, completely aim it wherever I need to. Should make finding that sweet spot much easier in the future, plus just knowing WTF we're doing probably helps as well. Was a neat project for the day, sure it could've been done faster but we really wanted to see what would happen if we tested basically every possible outcome. The Winning Idea: Both Attempts Side By Side: Zip Tie Mounting FTW: Final Positioning & Working Version:

I live in the UK and use the Carrier GiffGaff, a subsiduary of O2. The issue is that I plan on purchacing a new phone and would like to use 4G/LTE. The frequency band O2 uses is 800 MHz though which two of the phones in consideration do not support. http://www.gsmarena.com/compare.php3?idPhone1=8291&idPhone2=8263&idPhone3=4664 http://www.4g.co.uk/4g-frequencies-uk-need-know/ Phones in consideration: Xiaomi Redmi Note 4 Xiaomi Redmi 4 Prime Elephone P9000 The question is: Even though the phones don't support the Band 20 , can it connect to other carriers cell towers using a different band and therefore enable me to use 4G? Or would I only be able to use 3G? If you have other recommenations or advice please do post your opinion. Thank you

Qualcomm, along with Netgear, Ericsson, and Australian carrier Telstra, is announcing the first product to support gigabit LTE, a mobile hotspot. As an Australian I am proud to say we have some of the worst (fixed line) internet in a developed country, however surprisingly we actually have pretty good 4G speeds (the best I've gotten is around 200 mbps) and I'm glad to see the ISPs actually continue to invest in upcoming technologies. Now all they have to do is give me fibre and I'll be happy! Qualcomm also announced its first 5G compatible modem to be launched sometime in 2018. It'll supposedly offer up to 5 Gbps transfer speeds. Sounds like it should be good. OP: http://www.theverge.com/circuitbreaker/2016/10/17/13306814/qualcomm-gigabit-5g-x16-x50-modem http://fortune.com/2016/10/17/qualcomm-speed-up-4g-5g-wireless/

I need suggestions for a cheap phone with fast hotspot capability. For $20/month I can add a line to my Verizon Unlimited Family Plan. I am planning on using this line as a 24/7 hotspot for my home network. Until my local ISP adds ports (waiting 2 years) my only other option is satellite which is $65/month for lower speeds than Verizon. My local Verizon tower gets little traffic so I use 300GB/month on my phone with no noticeable throttling. I want to use this new 24/7 line primarily to handle updates (steam, Microsoft, drivers) so I don't need to wait every time I connect and to send security notifications. It needs to be a phone to get unlimited data so should I just pick the cheapest 4G Lte Verizon phone? Or are there differences in through-put speeds on the cheaper/older 4G phones or compatibility issues when sharing connections. The phone will connect via usb to my PC with the connection shared to other devices. Thanks

Hi, I have recently subscribed to a 4G broadband services which using a SIM CARD. I understand that we aren't able to do hosting with the 4G broadband service as the ISP has given us the private IP instead of public IP. From my research I come to understand that this can be overcome by setup of 1. 4G Modem Router that able to do VPN & Multiple Port Forwarding (For VPN) 2. VPN with dedicated/static IP c/w Port Forwarding Can anyone suggest to me a recommendation of 4G modem router and VPN service that able to provide the functionalities as above? Correct me if I am wrong about my assumption. Thanks.

I usually don't write any news articles, so please don't be too harsh to me My translation: "Half a year ago we brought half gigabit speeds to our network. Now we are going to buid the first gigabit-stations. With that we're going a big step towards a 'Gigabit-Society' and Show how fast Germany can surf in the future.", Hannes Ametsreiter, the CEO of Vodafone Germany said. Vodafone Germany wants to expand their current infrastructure to support 1 Gigabit LTE in four major cities in Germany: Berlin Düsseldorf Hannover Hamburg The interesting bit is, that there are currently no phones available to even support 1 Gigabit LTE. Apparently the newly announced Huawei Mate 10 Pro can achieve 1 Gigabit speeds. But on the other hand this will at least push technology forwards and I like what they're doing. In the article they talk about "4.5G Technologie". Apparently they achieve those speeds by "bundeling multiple frequency bands together" and by "aligning atennas in a certain way" in the upcoming smartphone models. This all sounds like gibberish to me, so maybe someone else can explain it in more detail. Source: http://www.computerbild.de/artikel/cb-News-DSL-WLAN-Vodafone-4-5G-Schnelles-Mobilfunknetz-kommt-19176631.html https://www.vodafone.de/unternehmen/presse/aktuelle_pm.html

It seems like sprint is doing something a little crazy. (RIP OnePlus 3T users) They are offering 1 Year of free LTE service for anyone who switches to Sprint. Offer Expires 6/30/17 Here is the link: https://www.sprint.com/content/sprint/sprint_com/us/en/shop/offers/free-unlimited.html

Have I gone mad? Well it is not my main phone it is a replacement for my iPod 5, my daily driver is still the my|phone my32 which runs android L. So why the Nokia Lumia 640 LTE? ((it was also the considered by a Youtuber to be the best Windows phone for anyone who just wants to try it due to its low price!)) Well I got it cheaper than its import price from where I work and it has most my apps except Discord, tough there is a unofficial UWP version I have yet to try on the gaming side well I found 3 of all my games! Sad on the gaming side tough, I am mostly happy that I no longer has to use iTunes. Tough while trying to transfer content over the device keep failing, so much is not transfered yet I may have to pull out the SD-card and plug it to my PC. Speaking of SD-card it seems Windows phone lets me add ALL THE APPS ON THE SD-card! o3o ((to bad there aren't many games to add on it...)) finally worst part is that the device will only send and receive 1 file at the time over bluetooh which is torture! ((the biggest win is its 2500mAh battery, so much music so much winning!!!)) Short version NOT TERRIBLE but needs more APPs and well until then not advised for a main phone unless you do not need the trendy apps/games.

I have 2 main questions concerning the topic of Dual Wan Routers and LTE. I have 2 Internet connections from different providers (moved in with my girlfriend and we both had one) and i now have 3 routers. 1 Fritz!Box for her wired connection, 1 LTE Router that is pretty bad (150down/50up in my contract, 30-60down/30-50up in reality with daily crashes of the router that often need multiple restarts to fix. Also the routers LAN ports are only capable of 100mbit. yey.) and 1 Router from ASUS with dual wan capabilities where both join together (in theorie) 1) I had quite the trouble setting up dual WAN with my current setup. The problem (i think) being killer network management on my pc which if i uninstall disables my ethernet port and i dont have a network card. If i have dual WAN enabled it tries to balance the load of the 20mbit wired connection and the up to 150mbit LTE connection (both wired to the asus router with ethernet cables) and assigns each PC the amount of data needed (at least i think thats how it works). Killer networking on the other hand does the same with what it gets so basicly my pc gets a low amount of bandwith and instead of demanding more killer network management tries to work with that and i have like a few KB download at most with this. Another problem is also the general issue with the bad router 2) Im thinking of just fixing the entire situation by buying 1 router that does it all. So does anyone know a Dual Band Router that supports Dual WAN and has LTE capabilities? Because i would love to have just 1 box standing around instead of wiring 3 into eachother.

Title. *Edit* I prefer kabylake-r/whiskey lake cpu with 8gb of ram and at least 256gb ssd. Screen: 1080p matte Touchpad: windows drivers/separate left-right buttons (not a must) Keyboard: backlit keys/numpad (not a must) Windows hello: fingerprint reader Thanks.

Hey guys, I was wondering if there was any way to connect a SIM card to my laptop, perhaps through a USB port or an RJ-45 jack in order to have LTE connectivity on my laptop (which doesn't natively have a SIM slot). I'm not sure if this is possible, but I don't see why not as there are USB to WiFI adapters, but I haven't been able to find any adapters during, admitedly rather short, searching around time on Google. Thanks for your help