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Today I built a computer for the first time. I got an i7-4790 with an Asus H97m-e motherboard and I had some spare money and decided to spend alittle extra on an AIO thinking it would keep my cpu cooler while also being quieter. I discovered during the build that my motherboard doesnt have a pump header so i plugged the AIO pump into a case fan header. After a few hours ive notcied that the cpu is in fact cooler but it super loud. Is there any way for me to make it quieter?

I just bought second hand rtx 2070 Super FE and in MSI Afterburner its saying that both fans are at 41%. I checked GPU-Z and fan 2 is running at 4600rpm (and still showing 41% fan speed). The card is very loud. The seller said to me that i can return it and get my money back. Is there any chance of fixing the card or should i just return it?

Hi, recently I noticed my CPU fan is getting louder when idling (which never happened before). As in the title, right after opening task manager the CPU is around 60% (no program is showing which could be the cause of it). Maybe one second after usage drops to 2%-5% as normal and CPU rpm slows down. My specs: Ryzen 7 2700x 16GB DDR4 2866MHz B450 Pro4 Gigabyte RTX 2060 D6 120GB SSD for Windows 1TB and 500GB HDD for games SilentiumPC 500w vero L1 80plus

I have the TS650 for quite a while now, but lately it has gotten even louder than it had before and it was quite loud before. I just replaced 660 with r9 280x and now it sounds like a fucking vacuum cleaner. I already RMAed it earlier but it came back and they said nothing was wrong with it. I contacted XFX directly and they gave me green light that I can change the fan myself without voiding warranty. From reviews it seems that it has Hong Hua HA1225M12F-Z (12V, 120mm, 2000 RPM Fluid Dynamic Bearing) fan inside. (Maybe it's ADDA AD1212MB-A70GL but seems like those only came in early test samples) I can't seem to find any specifications online, but it seems like its just a very bad design and very high RPM fan, because there isnt that much air flow coming from the exhaust and I have tried taking it outside the case to see if it will run any quieter. Any suggestions on what fan I should put in? It's rather ridiculous that the system is quiet and then comes this stupid fan loud as...

Okay so, i've been trying to test out a used EVGA GTX 650 for my friend, and the troubles we've had are as follows - The GPU without the Power Input on His PC will spin the fans, and display through the Motherboard output - The GPU with the Power Input on His PC will not allow his PC to turn on at all - The GPU without the Power Input on My pc will spin the fans, and display through the motherboard output - The GPU with the power input on my Pc will spin the fans, turn on my computer but still display through the motherboard DVI output My question is - Is it a faulty Graphics card as such? Or a problem with installing it? (It doesn't show in Device Manager) The Fan is spinning at 100% (assuming because it's so loud) so im guessing theres something wrong with the die or the logic board. Please correct me if i'm wrong, but i'm just curious as to why it's doing this - Yes, he has tried using PCI 2.0, 3.0 and another PC he owns as well, no luck.

Hi there, Lately I've been having some issues with my 1060... At random times throughout using my PC, whether it be during intense gaming or idling at my desktop, all of a sudden my screens will go black, the GPU fan will ramp up ridiculously, and I have to hard restart my PC to get it back to normal. This is what I've done so far: - I've re-seated my motherboard 8-pin, GPU 6-pin and the modular connectors on the PSU, ensuring it's all a snug fit. - Uninstalled my GPU driver using DDU, and re-installed the latest one. So what I've concluded is that it is either a PSU or GPU issue, however I have no way of testing the GPU outside of my PC so I cannot be sure. I have a Corsair CX600M PSU, which should be more than enough wattage for my PC (I'll leave the specs at the bottom of the post), and I've not had any issue when I had my 660 before I upgraded so I doubt it is the PSU. Another point to note that is every so often when it happens, I hear the Windows "disconnected" alert that sounds usually when you disconnect a USB drive, which made me thing is was a software issue but after reinstalling the drivers, I doubt it is. There is no guaranteed time that the issue will happen either which makes it extremely hard to test any possible solutions - as I'm writing this on my laptop it has literally just happened whilst idling at the desktop, so any solutions make take a while to test. Is there anything you suggest I should do before I contact Zotac for a replacement card? Many thanks, Nathan PC Specs: i7 4790k 16GB ram ASRock Z97M Pro4 Zotact AMP! 1060 6GB Corsair CX600M

Any input would be appreciated! The problem PC mobo: GA-Z87n-wifi (BIOS rev. F6) cpu: i3-4130t (35W) ram: crucial ballistix tactical ddr3 at 2000mhz (1.35v) gpu: XFX RX460 2gb ssd: 2.5in Crucial m500 240gb OS: Windows 10 Pro The Problem Recently moved my home office PC from a small restrictive case, Lian-Li PC-Q12, to a new, larger case with more expandability, airflow and options, Lian-Li PC-Q01. Now that everything is in the new case I'm having really high chipset temps, 52C at idle, (TMPIN0 according to HWMonitor) I don't recall it being an issue until I assembled everything in the new case. I have other gigabyte Z87 and Z97 boards with TMPIN0 temps around 38C at all times. This case is larger with more airflow so that's not the issue. When I touch the chipset heatsink its almost too hot to touch so I'm almost positive TMPIN0 is the chipset temp. It's causing really weird case fan behavior too which is the main problem. The TMPIN0 reading starts out at room temp when I first boot, 22C. Leave it idle (even in power saver mode) and it goes up by 1C every 5 minutes. The moment it hits 50C my 140mm Noctua NF-A14pwm case fan instantly goes from 700rpm to 1600rpm and won't go back down until I reboot. CPU core temps are around 30-35C. GPU is around 38-40C. Chipset temp (according to TMPIN0 in HWMonitor) stays above 50C even when the case fan is going nuts. I'm not really that bothered by the chipset temps (it'll tolerate 50C no problem) so much as the fan going insane and being loud as hell. Everything seemed fine until I put it in the new case with the RX460. Process of elimination... Things I've tried, I've tried clearing CMOS, loading optimized defaults. Still behaved the same (hot chipset and loud fan). The RX460 is also new, could a GPU be causing a chipset to overheat? Maybe some sort of pcie bus clock problem? Before the transition to the new case, I delidded my Haswell i3 (mostly to see how difficult it is before I consider doing it to my devils canyon i7, much cheaper than ruining a $300 cpu, used IC Diamond between CPU and IHS). i3 was fine after delid, also did it to my G3258 and its fine too. I've also tried 3 different PSU's and none make a difference. I've used three different CPU coolers, just in case the TMPIN0 is actually CPU temp related. There is no difference in TMPIN0 between stock intel, NH-l9i or NH-l9x65. Some things I think I'll try next, check the thermal pad between the chipset and it's little heatsink, even though I really doubt thats the issue as the heatsink is hot, ie it's clearly conducting heat swap CPU's to the G3258 or an i7 I have lying around (if the issue only occurs with the delidded i3 I'll check the paste under the IHS) swap the GPU for the old HD7750 somehow position a tiny 40mm fan over the chipset to see what happens?

Few hours ago, I disassembled a laptop in order to blow dust from it and change thermal paste. I assembled it again, turned it on, great - windows booted, working good, i checked temps, they were way lower than before. I restarted it to get into bios and install new OS, it gets stuck on the display that shows "Press F2 for setup, F12 boot options, etc.". Loading bar is loading, then just gets stuck. In the beginning fans are not loud, working as they should, after about 20 seconds, they just ramp up like crazy, and laptop shuts down. And now every time I turn it on, that happens. I read online that it might be a heat problem, but I am sure it is not because the fan is blowing cold air out and I JUST changed thermal paste, like few hours ago. Laptop is 10+ years old, not mine, guy wanted me to blow the dust and "refresh" the OS of his laptop. I am screwed. Please help. Laptop is Dell Latitude D630

I am the owner of an Acer V15 Nitro Black Edition (VN7-592G) gaming notebook since April 2016. It is a great device for general usage, but as cited on multiple blogs and articles, it has an inherent flaw in its cooling system that causes the CPU to overheat and throttle while running moderate to heavy applications. For my unit, the cooling fan on the right hand corner (when viewing the laptop from the front) has begun emitting a grinding noise, a tell-tale sign of a dried up bearing that needs lubrication. So I spent about an hour today trying to dismantle my laptop, and remove the defective fan. After several close calls where I thought I cracked the motherboard's intricate circuits (the motherboard is paper-thin), it was to my surprise that all my effort had gone down the drain when I discovered that there is no visible port through which I can pour oil directly onto the bearing and shaft, unlike a conventional PC case fan that has an opening behind the label exposing the end of the fan shaft and bearing. Instead, the fan in my laptop has a metal or bronze slug underneath the label, that seals and caps this particular section off. I tried to pull the centrifugal impeller off the motor with the assumption that there is no circlip behind the slug holding the shaft in place, but the impeller will still not come free from the motor. The fan manufacturer is SUNON, and has the model number EG75070S1-C100-S9C. I believe it is custom designed to full-fill Acer's demand of allowing the impeller to rotate in the opposite direction when the DustDefender application reverses system airflow. A simple search on Google yielded multiple Apple Macbook owners complaining about the lack of any lubrication ports on their Sunon fans, so I presume this is an issue plaguing Sunon fans. An idea I brainstormed is that I dismantle my device again, remove the defective fan, and try to pour 3-in-1 Multi-purpose Oil through the gap where the fan impeller mates with the outer perimeter of the motor, and hope that gravity will allow the oil to seep over the stator coils, and into the bearing, while centrifugal force can eject the surplus oil to prevent attracting dust. The oil I plan to purchase over the week and use is in the link below: http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/3-in-1-multi-purpose-oil-0387807p.html Worst case scenario, if nothing works out, I plan to replace the faulty fan with one that is similarly dimensioned, and somehow manage to fit it within the chassis. I really wish I had snapped photos during the disassembly process to better illustrate the bronze cap restricting access to the bearing, but I was more worried about destroying my video cable, cracking the motherboard, or damaging the keyboard ribbon cable due to Acer's horrible notebook architecture that is not meant to be dismantled after assembly at the factory. I would be grateful if someone may provide me with a solution to this issue. The defective fan is extremely loud, and makes my colleagues over at my office wonder whether I operate a laptop, or a washing machine over at my desk.

Hello, before I tell you my specs, I'll tell you some backstory. A month or 2 ago my computer froze and It wasn't responding to anything and the HDD LED was not on. Even the power button didn't work so I had to pull out the cable and put it back in. This kept happening sometimes between the time period until yesterday my PC froze twice and the second time I tried booted it up, It didn't boot up and there was only a loud fan and no HDD LED. I've even tried replacing the RAM modules. Win10 64bit 3Gig ddr3 ram Core 2 duo E8400 3ghz

When I play higher intensity games (such as Battlefield 4, Tomb Raider, Metro Last Light) my PSU fan gets very noisy, it is the loudest fan in my system. My power supply is a Cooler Master 500w extreme power plus (http://m.newegg.com/Product/indexitemnumber=N82E1681717...). Is this a bad thing, does this mean that I need a higher wattage power supply or my current power supply is about to go out? Here's my build: Intel core i5 3470s Msi R9 380 (I have it overclocked pretty significantly) 16gb EVGA ddr3 1600mhz Thank you!

Hi, across the past few months i was building a pc for my mom with overpowered parts which i thought were going to be used for a bit of gaming on the behalf of my sister (never happened). After that I realized that my moms seldomly used pc had a better GPU than my regularly used (though prebuilt system). This all led to a series of complications involving insufficient power from my power supply and a switch of PSUs and GPUs between the computers. Noticing that my PC was designed by a moron with the technological knowledge of a potatoe. This realization dawned when I noticed that the complete computer was built the wrong way around. What I mean is that in a normal system the case opens on the left side. This one doesn't. It opens on the right. Do you guys know why this is the case that usually it opens to the left? To avoid shit like this: http://i.imgur.com/qv5Baz2.jpg See that? The bloody GPU blocks the way for the 24 pin and 6 pin cables on the motherboard. Know what else? The GPU puts out a bunch of heat right onto the cables. Know what else? I used a bunch of spare cables to ty together other cables to keep them out of the fans of the GPU Know what else? The PSU is mounted (double sided tape) on top of the case because the stupid DVD drive wouldn't let it fit. Know what else? The pieces of paper around the PSU are so that I dont hear this bloody thing. Before I started sticking those there it sounded like winds the strength that unroots your house and pulls you to a magic land. I then decided to look at wtf the fan was doing. What do I find? A bloody piece of plastic that was right in the way blocking half the air flowing through it, in the power supply. Why? i guess better airflow or improved circulation or something along those lines. really not sure. I opened the PSU removed that stupid thing. Helped a bit. Now I only have a 140 mm fan permanently spinning at max. Here comes the question to this odyssey of incompetence and lack of planning. TLDR; I'm an idiot. My PSU fan sucks and is loud. Is there some sort of inline resistor for 2 pin fans which can go into a PSU? If not how strong should the resistor roughly be to macgyver into the cable? And I guess if you enjoy it post your own MacGyver tries or ask what is going on with my PC. MfG MrEppart

I'm aircooling my PC right now and am slowly upgrading it to water cooling. So, I picked up some of the fans I'm interested in using. The only issue is the Corsair 780t built in fan controller runs them way too loud on the lowest fan setting. I believe the controller sends 5v on the low setting. So, is there a splitter or fan controller that is safe to run these on without blowing out a header. I'll probably have about 15 of these in the case when I'm done, with 12 on radiators. I'll probably need to pickup two controllers or splitters. I did notice on Noctua's website they suggest against using most common fan controllers with these. Anyone know how to safely manage the speed of these fans? They're just unbearably loud right now.

Hy! I'm new on this forum and I need some help reducing the noise of my PSU. Can anyone please help me? I have an OCZ StealthXstream 2 700W PSU that does the job well for my needs, but has a pretty loud fan which I'd like to replace to make it quieter. Here's a link to a page where someone tried just that with the same PSU. I need a fan recommendation. All help will be appreciated!

Hello, I have a video card in my current PC(My first PC that I built on my own). It is the AMD Radeon HD 4850 by Asus. The problem I am having is that it is way too loud for me when I am only at idle. I have tried turning down the fan because the GPU says it is plenty cool, but it does not go below 20%. The only time it gets higher than 20% is when I play games like Assassins Creed or Far Cry. I was wondering if there is either something wrong with my card's heat-sink or fan, or if I could find a quieter heat-sink/fan. I have the default heat-sink on at the moment. I have attached a picture for reference. Thanks, Ascar21