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Found 11 results

  1. I'm having an issue(s) with my system resuming from sleep in which the keyboard or mouse can wake the machine, but then am unable to use either peripheral at the log on screen. Usually after about 30 seconds, I can use the peripherals again to login, and get the below error. These issues happen more frequently when the system goes to sleep on its own, rather than when I tell it to sleep. 1. Occasionally, the system hangs on resume after sitting at the login screen for about 30 seconds and it resets on its own. On restart, the black windows error recovery screen after BIOS/Post is sometimes accessible by keyboard, and other times is not and I have to wait out the 30 second timer for normal system resume. This issue seems to be very finicky and difficult to reproduce consistently. It has been going on for about a YEAR, and I am getting fed up with it. 2. Another issue tends to occur after a certain period of sleep, say over a half hour in which the system attempts to sleep, but the fans are running at max speed and the screen is black, but I cannot get the system to come on and have to do a hard reset, sometimes using the power button because the reset button won't even work. Any advice here? I uninstalled and reinstalled latest drivers a week ago, and that seemed to solve the issue for a few days, but this issue is not and has not been resolved. Many thanks in advance to anyone who can solve this. Specs, power settings and the error message in windows upon successful login is also below. I have set the Sleep Time to 45 minutes and HDD disk power off to 1 hour, but I am not sure if that matters? Build: (it is aging...) Windows 7 x64 Ultimate, latest patches installed. Intel i7 875K @ 24 hour stable 4.0Ghz on water Asus P7-P55D-E motherboard AMD HD7950 Mionix Naos 3200 mouse, plugged via passthru into Logitech G710+, running the latest Logitech Gaming software.
  2. Did it for a friend Video of finished How to ? Tools required 1. Screw driver set Modding requirements 1. Carbon fiber vinyl 2. Scissors ( Should have flawless working ) 3. Blade ( Use a new one for smooth finishes ) 4. Good workplace with enough light ( I usually work on my iron stand ) 5. Patience ( Must or things get messy ) 6. A small box ( to place screws and all the small parts that u take off from your component ) • Place the keyboard upside down and un-screw all the screws . G710+ doesn't have any hidden screws all will be visible at the bottom of the keyboard. Make sure you put all those screws in the box # Modding requirements #6 • Now G710+ has multiple clips that hold it together nice and tight so even after removing all screws it will not come apart right away. • I usually insert my nail between the 2 surfaces to come apart, to find clips position. Just insert the nail and slide it along the border once, you will have a nice idea where the clips are present. I use nail because it doesn't scratch the surfaces and u can feel the pressure once u get near a clip. • After finding the clips positions ( i have shown in pics too to save some of your time ). Use your nail ( i use thumb one ) with the keyboard lying upside down insert it in ( thumb belly facing up ) near the clip position one by one and twist it outwards. You will hear a small click and the clip will open. • It has pretty weak clips shown by green circles in pic so be careful if you hear a lil louder click u have broken your clip • Now the clips near your arrow keys area really PITA but they are strong ones too after removing all of the clips at the border i pulled the frame near the arrow keys ( takes some force ) and the frame was free. Make sure to un-plug the sound drum wire ( talking about the wire in red circle in PIC # 6 ) • Now to remove the shiny part from the grey part ( see pics for reference what i am talking about ) Place the frame upside down. You will clearly see the clips that hold these 2 parts together and also some small melted pillars. • Those pillars hold the 2 parts aligned and then they are melted to give a firm joint and also to make them settle perfectly across all their length. • I used a blade to cut all those melted pillar head and then un-clipping the 2 parts apart. • Did the same thing for that orange part of the keyboard. Now the carbon fibering • Make sure you cut the vinyl a lil extra then required just to be on the safe side. • Some people use PVC cards and stuff like that to apply carbon fiber i use my palm never had any issue with that. Just peel one edge of the vinyl and start applying it from one side to the other. • After applying sue your finger to make sure that its applied good enough across al the parts / edges. • Use a sharp blade to cut the excess ( place the blade at a 10-15 degree angle with the surface and just swipe it across and get a smooth neat cut ) Spray Painting • Not a fan of the glossy.shiny spray paint finish but matt paints are really hard to find. • However here are the tips for spray painting • Clean the surface thoroughly and spray outside. • Dnt spray in direct sunlight. • Shake the can well before spraying 1-2 min. Its must. • Maintain 0.7-1 foot distance from the surface to be painted. • Spray in rhythm like the car wipers move. • Spray as much thin layers as u can. • Wait 5-8 min after every coat.
  3. I might have, potentially, found a way to turn on the illumination for the keys on my keyboard (that the controller/key for illumination stopped working) THROUGH SOFTWARE. Includes having LGS (Logitech Gaming Software) running, using LED ILLUMINATION SDK from Logitech and having UnLight by HunterZ. 1. Have LGS run in the background. https://support.logitech.com/en_roeu/software/lgs 2. Start G910_SAMPLE.exe from the LED ILLUMINATION SDK https://www.logitechg.com/sdk/LED_SDK_9.00.zip 3. Set Lighting in it. 4. Have UniLight running (if not running, the LED illumination will turn off once you close G910_sample) https://github.com/HunterZ/UniLight (direct download: https://github.com/HunterZ/UniLight/releases/download/v1.5/UniLight_v1.5.zip ) 5. Close the G910_SAMPLE. 6. Enjoy!!! Having no illumination was such a PITA and it feels strange having the keys illuminated after getting used to no illumination. But I like it. Now I have to find a way to optimize the procedure and make it run on startup. Can anyone here test if it works for their G710 / G710+ or any other Logitech keyboard, especially if it's not an RGB one? Logitech G has no intention to add Illumination control to LGS for their first mechanical keyboard, the G710+. My way proves it can be done. #logitech #G710fix
  4. I'm considering investing a Logitech G710+ Any opinions???
  5. I've had the Razer Blackwidow Tournament edition for a while now, And despite this already being the best 10keyless keyboard I've used, i feel like now it's come to a time where I'm not overall happy with it through the aesthetics wise, The keys are tall, same with the keyboard, not really having a dedicated wrist wrest to support this, and my wrists often hurt after a specific amount of use, typing/gaming etc. and other being it's abit too "Plastic" feeling with the Khail switches and some smaller details, I have been looking into my fair share of keyboards and dummed it down to either.... - Logitech G710+ - Corsair K70 (Brown/Red) - Corsair K65 RGB (Maaaybe) - Ducky Shine 4/Pro
  6. https://www.massdrop.com/buy/max-keyboard-keycap-set What do you guys think? Savings of 30 dollars with shipping, but an extra month wait time. My keys are starting to *disintegrate* on my lovely Logitech G710+ (Great keyboard, terrible keycaps). So I currently have 3 keys that are not even attached, just placed over the light to not blind me. No one else seems to sell LED compatible keycaps. Any thoughts would be great since I have a day to cancel my order. I do a lot of night gaming and typing and I need the backlights to be lit (since I type sub-standard).
  7. Hey guys! I am wondering if I shud buy the corsair strafe mechanical keyboard or the logitech g710+ P.S i heard a lot of complaints about the keycaps on the g710+, but still i dont know what to choose
  8. My Logitech G710+ is currently suffering from the effects of the issues related to the quality of the keycaps. As a result, I will be requesting an RMA in hopes of a refund, but nonetheless am in need of a new keyboard. Despite prior knowledge of and/or research into the potential candidates below, I have yet to find anything that matches most of the criteria below. Typically, Browns are paired with white backlighting, which is OK, but I prefer blue backlighting. Required Criteria: Cherry MX Blues and/or Browns (strongly prefer browns). Full 104-Key US Layout (read: Standard US Layout + Numpad). NO MACRO KEYS! Wired. Preferred Criteria: LED Backlighting (strongly prefer blue and/or white; RGB is acceptable). Non-dedicated media keys. Priced below $150. USB Hub and/or passthrough. Potential Candidates: CM QuickFire TK CM QuickFire Ultimate Das Keyboard Model S Ultimate WASD 104-Key Custom Mechanical Keyboard PLEASE DO NOT SUGGEST ANY OF THE FOLLOWING: CORSAIR LOGITECH RAZER TL;DR: I am searching for a space-efficient and functional keyboard that is not superfluous; preferably with Cherry MX Browns, Blue LED backlighting, and/or a USB connection for my mouse.
  9. Hello dear technology lovers! I'm here today to ask for opinions and ideas from personal experience and knowledge regarding buying parts for a new Gaming RIG. I must say that I didn't know where to create this topic but I think here was a good place as I have some CPU/MO-BO/Memory concerns... sorry if I created it at the wrong place... I must also say that the last computer I mounted (this one, from 2008) was a while ago so I'm kind of out of practice and I am also sorry for any stupid questions, don't judge me! I already have the following parts: Gigabyte GTX 7704GB - Really quiet(I'm always wearing my headset or with loud music around me so my opinion might be meaningless) and it hasn't reached more than 59ºC while playing BF3/Skyrim, both on Ultra. Cooler Master Silent Pro M2 - 720W - It's also really quiet and I have no complaints whatsoever. It was my first semi-modular PSU and I was so happy about it. I have 4 HDDs at the moment, total of 5TB of space so I ain't needing any more of dat. And these peripherals: Corsair Vengeance 2100 - My friend has a PC360 and I was really worried when I bought the V2100s because I thought they would suck if compared to the PC 360 but they definitely do not! I'm not really into listening to music on earbuds/headphones and I believe they are worse than the PC360 for it. However, for gaming, I'm so happy with the V2100s' locational audio, saved me a lot in FPS games. Also: they are so damn comfy, no sweaty pleather, gigantic ear cups for my gigantic ears and, the reason why I bought'em, they are wireless. SteelSeries QcK mass - I'm gonna buy a new mouse so I'm just gonna mention my mouse pad (which most likely I won't change) just in case. I really would appreciate if we could focus on what I need to buy, not the stuff I already have... I can't return them so, even if they are not the best(or totally suck), I have to keep them. All right, with that said I believe I need: A case, motherboard, CPU, cooler, memory, SSD, keyboard and mouse. I'm noot looking for a monitor because I won't have enough money for that as well. I did some research and came up with a build that is not very expensive but I might change it because I will buy everything in December so Broadwell and Z97 will probably be out already... anyway, here it is so far: Corsair Obsidian 750D - This is an expensive case but it is so huge, has so many places to put fans at and will certainly last for so much time that I'm pretty confident I'll stick with it; Intel Core i7-4770K* - I like to play around with OC so I "need" the Unlocked detail. I know that i5-4670K is more than enough for gaming but I won't be able to buy anything any time soon so I'll go with the best I can afford; Noctua NH-U14S + NF-A15 - You might call me a weird-o but I find Noctua stuff so beautiful. Also, my current rig has a Noctua CPU Cooler and it's just amazing: quiet, keeps the CPU cooled and it's easy to remove/clean. And it's been working just fine for almost 7 years. Sabertooth Z87* - I have a serious dust problem at my house. I don't really know why but everything gets dirty so fast. If I clean my rig today, in a month it will be full of dust again. I guess this motherboard would help me with that(or at least I wouldn't be able to see the dust...); Corsair Vengeance Pro Series (2x8GB) DDR3 1866 MHZ* - These are low profile so they won't stay in the way of the CPU cooler; Intel 730 Series 240GB SSD - I hope these are cheaper in December when I buy everything but, if they're not, I might go for a cheaper one - no big worries about it. Peripherals: Logitech G710+ - I love the Cherry MX Brown and, even though it's kind of pricy, I believe this keyboard will last for a few years(Linus' video about it also helped me choosing this), so it's hopefully gonna be worth it; Wireless Razer Mamba - This mouse feels so great on my hand. I have had a couple of mice and this is by far the most comfortable I ever used. And again, it can be used on a wireless mode. I guess that's everything I would buy today from the research I did. However, I still want to hear from anyone that has or had any of the items above if they are a good choice. Also anyone that would like to say anything, please do. If I had to ask anything, it would be: 1) I hear Broadwell is coming in the near future and it's gonna feature DDR4. If that's true, I believe there will be so many problems with the "new technology" that the upsides of buying the brand new processor, memory and motherboard that supports it might not pay off... 2) Likewise Broadwell, the Sabertooth with the Z97 chipset is probably going to be available in the near future so would it be a good idea to buy it? Like in question 1, the many problems that might appear maybe make it a bad idea to buy it? 3) I am only going to buy this rig because I'll be in the US for 30 days (December~January) and the prices can't even be compared to where I live. If I am not wrong, these 9 items cost $1,460.00 as of right now. If I were to buy them where I live it would cost more than $3,000. What I mean with this is that I need a rig that will last for a long time - at least 5 to 6 years. I am not a fan of ULTRA HIGH GRAPHICS on games. As long as I can play them at low-medium with high FPS, it's great. Therefore, a good rig today will still be a cool one in 5 to 6 years Sorry about the long post, just really need some ideas so I don't do something stupid and end up losing money or, most importantly, losing the opportunity to buy my new rig at the United States. *I'm sorry for any English mistakes, please tell me if you can't understand something!*
  10. Sooo... I had this G710+ for a while and I am loving it, and then a friend of mine was playing on my computer, he panicked when playing magicka and ogerly pressed the G6 key to quickly heal, but he hit it from a weird angle and broke the Cherry MX Connector on the keycap (the switch is fine) at first i thought it had just popped of, but when i took a closer look it was broken . Here's how it looks like right now: It kind of works, but if I don't hit it perfectly from the top it will go weirdly to the side while i press it... I tried to find some keycaps on the internet but i did not quite find it, i found some replacement keycaps but the original G6 macro key has a bit of an inverted angle. Does anyone know where to find the replacement keycaps or another set of keys with the same-ish shape? It's angle is like this: [PS: Where can i find a translucent black and front printed keycaps set?]
  11. So i'm getting a new keyboard and mouse and I decided to go with the Logitech G710+, now I just need some help choosing a mouse. I don't need a mouse with lots of macro buttons and I don't really want to spend over £50, any help would be appreciated.
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