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Hello, first time posting here. I was wondering what in your opinion is tue best thermal pads, paste, and Liquid Metal for Pc use. From what I found most companies like thermal grizzly make all these claims but don’t actually give the numbers or even have their product be sold by any retailers

I cannot decide between what to buy. I was looking between Ninja 5000 and something from EK water block as for AIO. I am deciding between 240 and 280mm AIO. Now If I'd go with 240 AIO which has 120mm fans I'd mostly like replace them with scythe or noctua's fans which would be mostly likely NF F12 PWM. Now I cant really decide what to pick, because on one hand I have an option of OPTing for air cooled option, which is aluminium plate based and I couldn't apply LiquidMetal on it, tho who really knows if LM at this point is even worth it since you have a massive tower cooling your CPU with low noise fans that arent really providing much other than moving air slightly on that cooler. Then an AIO cooler which is copper plate and you can apply LM on it, but then you have the pump itself that can be loud, i don't have any experiecne with AIOs so i can't say if they are loud or not, but right now i have stock 3600 cooler that is just for god sake the most annoying thing ever. EK WB AIO: + It's copper plate enabling me to add LM to it - the noise of the pump (stock fans would get replaced anyway) - pump noise??? is it loud??? Ninja 5000: + it's big, it cools well, costs less, low noise dBA fans) - it's massive, but it'd would probably cool same as AIO, but unable to apply LM Now I just want to know what is more worth it here. I know that for Ryzen3600 might be an overkill, but let's also say if I'd be to upgrade to more higher end like 5800x in the future or better. Would LM make any sense in this composition? Bonus question: But let's speculate that LM wouldnt bring any shifting difference eitherway, would it make difference with GPU die instead?

Got some Conductonaut incoming. The plan is to use it on CPU and GPU in the hope of lowering temps by a few degrees each. Both have Copper heat plates so corrosion shouldn't be an immediate concern. Ryzen 2600X with a CM LiquidLite AIO. Sapphire Pulse OC RX 5700XT stock cooler. 1- Have any of you used TG Conductonaut on either of the 2 above components? 2- Do you have any general success or horror stories to share about using liquid metal? Thanks

Hey guys there's a lot of cases where laptops with liquid metal added to them would have the die fuse with the liquid metal bricking it after a year or 2 of use. I have an ROG G751 and I have been using it since 2014 so I care a lot for longevity, mainly because I cannot afford to replace the stuff. So how do modern laptops with Liquid metal out of the gate fare for longevity, I am at a loss. Maybe its a thing for LABS to pay attention to.

I have ASUS ROG GL522VW laptop CPU : 6700HQ GPU : 960M I recently used liquid metal but before my CPU temp was reaching instant 90°C and starts throttling while gaming and GPU at 80°C because at 80°C it throttle and temp don't go more than that now i have used liquid metal and CPU + undervolt of -0.120V temp still go same 90°C but take a while like 20 min or so 90°C if i play too long keep shifting between 80-90°C depend on different games and if i want low temps like 70-80°C while gaming i need to slow down CPU speed by disabling it's bost, when it don't bost up to 3.10GHz while gaming stuck at 2.50GHz speed,,, and low temps i was expecting it will not exceed 70-80 while gaming at full 3.10GHz but any help and Laptop has only one heatsink so i should expect this performance or it should be better anything that can help me low the max temp or anyone has same laptop and has used liquid metal can share his results with me thanks

hey there so i recently got myself a rather cheap used gigabyte 2080 super waterforce. the card reaches about 65°C max aswell as about 2050Mhz while gaming. the plastic shroud on the card was cracked so i decided to do my own out of metal the "mark 1" is done and looks OKish in the upcoming weeks, when all parts arrive, i'll build the second iteration incorporating a 5" lcd for stat readout and a 120mm fan into it. i will mount an additional finned aluminum heatsink on the existing aluminum block, using thermal epoxy, aswell to increase the surface area of the heatsing and give the fan oportunity to, additionally to the radiator, dissapate heat. onto my questions: will it be worth the work performance wise? do you guys think i will see an increase in frequency? should i remove the heatsink and replace the stock paste with LM? given the bottom of the HS is copper, how often will i have to reapply before the LM stops reacting with the heatsink? should i replace the stock paste with Thermal grizzly kryonaut instead of LM (conductonaut)? will that help the performance? any help aswell as input is geatly appreciated have a nice sunday *as soon as i am done i'll update my buildlog in case anyone is interested in the looks of the shroud

Back in 2017 ish I purchased an alienware 17 r4 for college. It has a GTX1070 and the i7 7820hk which I overclocked to 4.7GHz. It was a champ at everything I wanted it to do and when I switched peofiles to my underclock of 1GHz it would go for a long time on battery for my classes. Obviously it made a ton of heat and so I fixed the cooling on it. Both the cpu and gpu got LM and all of the thermal pads were replaced with fujipoly ones. The chipset even got its own little heatsink feom a raspberry pi. At my 1GHz setting it never saw above 40C, at stock 2.7-3.something it never went above 65c and at my overclock of 4.7 it never hit 90c. The cooler was doing a really good job thanks to iunlock. Also a lot of time tuning the undervolt. It has been 2 years since then and I dont really game or benchmark it anymore. So when I did finally launch a game again I noticed it would hit 99c instantly. I opened it up and checked the LM. The LM had dried up, mostly on the cpu (smaller of the 2 dies) while the gpu was still ok. The gpu never really got all that hot, even stock. The lighter colored spot is actually a solid chunk. Here is the heatsink side and it didnt fare any better obviously. It took the most work to clean up since the LM soaks into the copper while it pretty much just wipes off the dies, usually... I had to use a razor blade to get the dried LM off the dies as well as do the same for the heatsink. Afterward I polished the heatsink since it was super scratched up. here is a little closer shot of the heatsink. My phone camera kind of sucks sorry. I lost the pictures of the after but the LM left a stain on the heatsink and the dies cleaned of nicely. I didnt do LM again now that this laptop is just a fancy youtube machine. The only reason I am posting this is to report my experience with LM not to criticise it. If there are any questions I will try to reply today but it may be pretty late before I can check.

Ok,since its REALLY easy to open pocophone and get to see its "liquid cooling system" i was wondering,is there any reason or performance benefit to put liquid metal inside the pocophone,instead of some thermal paste? From the screenshots you can see you have a pretty big area to play with and for me it seems "safe" to do. Is there any freak that has done this with his phone? Screenshots are taken from the jerryrig`s video

Hello everyone, i got a used gtx 970 from zotac (the card is in excellent condition, despite its age, and i got it for 90 USD, so, i think it was a good deal) and i want to improve temps, by replacing the stock paste for thermal grizzlu conductonaut, but, i really don't know if the heatsink baseplate in this gpu is made from aluminum or copper. If LM is not recommendedm what other paste should i use? I have some AS5 but i have read that TG Kryonaut/Aeronaut are much better than AS5. Thanks in advance

I'm building a mini it's build and want to get the best temps and acoustics possible. I was wondering if the heatsink's contact plate of the gigabyte 2060 mini was aluminum or another metal so I can use liquid metal.

How good is Eluktronics with their liquid metal application? I'm looking to buy a laptop from them and they have the option to apply liquid metal on the cpu. However, I've heard that there are several preparatory steps that need to be taken to ensure that the liquid metal will last for a long time, such as using sand paper, nail polish etc. Does anyone here have any experience with ordering from Eluktronics? Do they use any of these methods to ensure quality?

Hey. So i was wondering if it would be a good idea to get liquid metal on both the cpu and gpu, in laptops. HIDevolution and Eluktronics offer this option. I've heard some bad things about liquid metal on gpus, so I would greatly appreciate any info on this topic. Also, does liquid metal need to be replaced like thermal paste? I've heard people say that liquid metal gets absorbed by the copper heatsink, and needs to be replaced every 6 to 8 months or so. How accurate is this? Thanks in advance.

Currently, I'm using Fractal Design Node 202 and my CPU has been delidded and my concern is that the liquid metal inside. Will it leak over time if I travel around with it? Will be using a backpack most of the time. Anyone had issues with LM while often transporting/travelling PC? Application of the liquid metal is a moderate amount, not too little nor too much (Conductonaut). Any feedback would be helpful.

I have GP72 6QF laptop changed my HDD to Seagate Firecuda 1TB SSHD (no windows installed--all new). CPU fan broke so had to replace it. Heard of new thermal paste (LIQUID METAL-- Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut). Have applied on both CPU and GPU and even on heat-sink. It was all fine but the CPU fan I replaced made rattling sound so again opened the heat-sink and add cushions to stop the rattling and it did. But the problem is I SPILLED over some of that LIQUID METAL over CPU and GPU. I tried to clean it by spraying Isopropyl Alcohol 99.9% all over CPU and GPU and then took toilet paper to absorb it. Also used Air Duster to remove all the alcohol beneath the CPU and GPU. After it dried I placed ELECTRICAL TAPE all around CPU and again applied LIQUID METAL. Now I tried to install Windows in the new SSHD. It did all the way to Cortona settings BUT the problem is Its stuck over there. The screen says Please Wait!. After a few seconds, the Screen turns blue saying Video TDR failure (that with symbol and QR CODE) and it restarts. Then it took time to boot up and it says Windows not installed properly and repair this PC or Shut down options comes up. Now I thought to change my new SSHD to my old HDD where Windows is already installed. When I did so, it boots up and even to Log Screen. But the problem is the Screen is Torn. Like there are all kinds of dots and glitches all over the screen. But it did show me my logo so I enter the password to log in but it didn't go through. Ithe screen went pitch black and then again the blue screen appeared about VIDEO TDR FAILURE and it restarted. And it's always the LOOP when I try to boot So did the short the motherboard? Or my CPU and GPU are short? Or there is a problem with my LCD screen? Or my HDD socket is short-circuited? Or its something terrible? Please help me out! Thank you! P.S Sorry, my English is not that good.!

I ned the Mac for work and need ever bit of power out of it, but i am worried about corrosion... anny suggestions?