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My GPU temps are high and I want to change the thermal paste to the Thermal grizzly Conductonaut. It wont stick nor spread on the bare copper heat pipe surface of the GPU heatsink. I have cleaned the surface multiple times with isopropyl alcohol with no change in result. I suspect the copper surface is too smooth so the LM wont stick. What grade of (grit) sandpaper(s) to use to sand down the copper surface? if this not the right place to ask this kind of question can you please direct me to the correct forum? Thank you.

I'm hoping to buy a new 7800X3D on black friday and pair it with liquid metal. I want to use a conformal coating to keep the nodes on the side of AM5 processors safe in case the liquid metal leaks out. Will this Liquid Electrical Tape I found at the hardware store work? It's claims to be rated to 275F or 135C, which should be above the emergency shutoff temp for modern processors. It's only $10, so I'd rather use this than a $15+Shipping product from amazon. If this doesn't work, what should I be looking for to use?

Here is how and why people delid CPUs in a nutshell : improving performances and temps. I was thinking documenting the process would be interesting, since I re-pasted both my 13700f and my 13900; It is relatively safe to do if you follow the guidelines. I started heating the CPU with my hot air soldering station at 200c for 2 min, but if you have a heat gun it will do the job as well; Then I pulled the lid with my deliding tool and some tweezers, do not touch it with your fingers it is hot. I removed as much soldering material as I could with a razor blade, then I applied some polish until I removed everything and I removed all silicone glue Liquid metal can be tricky to apply if you are not used to, you need to apply this on both your CPU die and lid, for un-experimented modders I would recommend not to place the syringe directly on the CPU die and put some heat resistant glue on some CPU parts to protect them because liquid metal conducts electricity, you don't want to see what happens when a CPU gets short-circuited. Then I had to glue back the lid in place. I ran different tests before/after, and I got a 4c difference which is nice; Let me know if you guys are interested by some more detailed intel about this.

I have a ROG Flow X13 with R9 5800hs, 16 GB RAM, and GTX 1650. I am noticing very low performance on games and on running bechmarks I see the gpu reaching 92 deg C really fast and then reducing the clock speed from 900 Mhz to 300-400 Mhz. I remember seeing low FPS in games similar to this last year and was able to fix it by just cleaning the fans, however that doesn't seem to work now. I am thinking maybe its the thermal paste which has gotten old and I am considering replacing it. Looking up my laptop shows that it uses liquid metal on the cpu and thermal paste on the gpu by default. I am thinkinng of ordering "Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut Liquid Metal - (1.0 Gram)" for the cpu and "Noctua NT-H2 3.5g" for the gpu. This is how the cpu and gpu thermal application looks like(from a random yt video): And this is the before and after of me cleaning the fans last year: also, I have tried updating the graphics driver, bios, and running on manual max fan curves and still dont get the performance I remember getting on the same games. any suggestions on what I can do?

Hello all, My boss has asked me to use liquid metal on one of our rendering workstations. I've bought LM & the Thermal Grizzly protective shield. My question is, do I need to remove the CPU socket entirely and apply the protective shield? Or, can I leave the socket installed and put a protective coating around it? TIA

I use liquid metal on my props. I bought a thermal grizzly foam guard some time ago to protect the electronics around the ihs. I just recently bought a metal am5 secure frame. My question is if anyone has done this before, can both be used? I don't want to waste any liquid metal on trial and error. Obviously my concern is that the foam protecting the tiny components around the ihs will prevent this bracket from going down far enough to allow a good connection between the ihs and the aio's heat sink. Thoughts pls...?

About a year ago I watched the K5 PRO video and I am using it instead of thermal pads since. A couple of months ago I was experimenting with liquid metal on some cheap CPU and ofcourse it leaked all around as soon as I installed heat sink. At that moment I though to cover surrounding area of CPU core with K5 PRO in order to use it as guard. However I was not sure if that would really be effective long term so I decided to spread some LM on a layer of K5 PRO and see if it will go through it. I had forgotten abou this but today I found this experiment and you can see result in photo. So it seems that LM not only did not go through K5 PRO but it even has a short of hydrophobic behaviour because as you can see all LM was collected in center in one drop. So this tells me that it should indeed behave as a good guard to protect what ever is covered with K5 PRO from LM leak. When I have time I will do an actual testing on a CPU and publish results.

how to know if my CPU is compatible for liquid metal ?

Hi yall, I bought some thermal grizzly liquid metal to use on my laptop, I've got an hp omen 15-ek0013dx. Im just on the fence because I dont know if the heatsink is copper plated or all copper, I scratched it with a knife and of course it looks shiny like aluminium but when I took a pic and zoom in it all looks like its same color, all copper. If any one with experience could help me out that woulld be great! thanks https://photos.app.goo.gl/QL2ZQGpGsYWFESrc9

I’ve thought about it long and hard, and I’ve decided to use liquid metal between my 12700K and NH-D15. Think I’m going to initially start with Noctua NT-H1 that came with my NH-D15. This is because I’ve sourced components from a variety of retailers and I want to make sure the system can get up and running before risking LM. It will also give me a chance to act as a comparison to LM. I’ll aim to run NT-H1 for a couple of months then switch to LM and I’ll try and keep this thread updated with stats and any issues I run into. The question I have for you lovely people is: which LM shall I use? Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut or Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra? Based on a) cooling performance, and b) effect on IHS and heatsink; i.e. corrosion, absorption, welding, alloying, staining, pitting, ‘drying out’, and all the other buzz words we use to describe what happens. No need to repeat the chemical reactions and the fact LM doesn’t technically ‘dry’ etc. I’m basically just looking for opinions (first hand if possible) on whether there would be a perceivable difference in either. (I have an unopened Liquid Ultra from a few years ago that looks ok and just bought Conductonaut for £8. If the consensus is there will be no perceivable difference I’ll probably return the Conductonaut and save the £8, but if it’s ever so slightly weighing in on Conductonaut’s favour I’ll prob go with that. In for a penny in for a pound and all that.) IHS is nickel plated obviously and the NH-D15 heat plate is nickel plated copper as well so nickel on nickel. Oh, and any application tips will be greatly received! I’ve heard carefully massaging it into both surfaces before mating does the trick? (Still talking about the LM btw). Thanks! J

I will go straight to the point. I have a Sapphire RX 5500 XT Pulse 8GB and I used a OC bios on it. It is stable but the temps on the hotspot is 95-99 oC with the GPU temp being at 70 oC on full load. If I change the internal paste for one THERMAL GRIZZLY KRYONAUT will that help? is it even worth to try for LIQUID METAL (THERMAL GRIZZLY CONDUCTONAUT to be precise)

I came here from an older thread(linked above) its been 3 years and my laptop has had a slew of issues such as battery getting puffed, all 3 fans have failed at some point and have been revived after getting lubricated and the display hinge is totally destroyed. I am thinking to do a liquid metal mod and may be 3d printing an enclosure for it as the specs are still decent (i7 - 8750H and 1070 Max Q) and convert it to a secondary system and server. On top of that if there are recommendations for the laptop fan which is winey is much welcome. For the liquid metal mod I was wondering if on top of the layer of enamel doing something like the PS5 and having a high density foam surrounding the silicon will be worth it or not.

Hi I've tried searching for this topic, both on google, and YouTube (which i know can also come up as results on google). I just bought a 5950X, and I've hear some of my friends using Liquid Metal for a delid'ed intel CPU. I was wondering if I could use it between the IHS and my water-cooling block. Both are nickle coated so there should no be much erosion. However since liquid metal is, well, liquid, I'm worried that if I put it on the CPU and put my case upright like most are today, that it will eventually run out. Does anyone have any experience with this or know where to find it. i guess my google fu is not that great. Regards

I'm trying to diagnose cooling issues with my new build. My only conclusion is that using ThermalGrizzly liquid metal actually damaged the surface of my IHS but I'm hoping for input/things I might have missed. First picture is my first application on my 5600X in a B550 Auros Elite V2. I got a similar application on to the Arctic 360 cold plate. This worked great. I would get a stable 30C (room is never above 23C) and it would maybe jump up a few C if I opened a bunch of chrome tabs and would be ~50C under load (Superposition Benchmark or similar). This is all with near silent operation and the default bios fan curve. I (stupidly) decided to mess with a good thing. I realized I meant to get the B550 Pro V2, not the elite and Microcenter was being difficult with giving me the $30 discount with mobo+cpu so I decided to return both. The liquid metal came off the IHS perfectly and had no issues with the exchange, but it stained my AIO coldplate as expected. I talked myself into a 5800X and regretted it since. I believe my first liquid metal application performed as expected but I had issues once I switched AIOs to fit into my new case. I tried new liquid metal on both the cold plate and IHS, MX4, MX5, some EK paste, 2 different mobos, and 3 different AIOs (arctic and EK basic). I was never able to get my 5800X clean after the first application with IPA or acetone: the liquid metal stained the IHS badly and seemed to leave some pitting. All of these iterations performed poorly in the same manner: jumping up to 60C on startup, usually going back to 40C completely idle, Jumping to 60C when simply opening a single chrome window, and going up to 70C when doing basic gaming like LoL. This behavior happens even if I default the fans/pump to 100% in bios, in an open case, with case fans at 100%, and with or without Ryzen Master OC. All the testing I've seen shows temps should be much lower and much less jumpy. I can really only see two options: The 5800X always ran hot/jumpy and I'm just remembering the 5600X The liquid metal actually damaged the IHS and my only option is lapping the IHS or seeking recompense from ThermalGrizzly The second photo is the damaged/spotty 5800X with some paste before spreading. The third photo is the 5800X after mounting it with some paste just to prove/disprove my competency. To be clear, I am currently using a mobo and AIO that have not been in contact with liquid metal at all. Edit: I understand my temps aren't crazy or out of spec; I just have never seen temps so jumpy and high doing basic things.

Hey everyone, I need to know if this cooler is usable with liquid metal, on the product page it says only as heat pipe and direct contact about the base, So it would be helpful if anyone knew if its compatible or not https://www.coolermaster.com/catalog/coolers/cpu-air-coolers/hyper-212-rgb-black-edition/

Alright so currently i'm running an I7 5930K at 4.3Ghz @1.251V on a Asus X99 Deluxe II, i'm currently cooling it using a 120mm AIO (coolermaster masterliquid ml120 RGB) with a Noctua fan replacing the RGB fan, but my cpu (as expected) is still running quite hot (up to 90 degrees C) so i ordered an NHD15 and i also ordered some Thermal Grizzly Liquid Metal out curiosity and i also intend to push my OC further, now my question is, since my cpu is a soldered one would using the liquid metal to contact the IHS and NHD 15 offer a cooling performance benefit over using the included thermal paste, and is it safe if done properly? the air config in my case is atm 3x 140mm intake at the front (bequiet shadow wings) and 3x 140mm exhaust at the top (Fractal Design Silent R2's) and the AIO is also serving as an exhaust at the back, and i am using all of this with an aircooled GTX 1070, 48GB of DDR4 3200Mhz (divided over 8 banks) and my case is a Silent Base 801, not sure if all of this is relevant but i thought it might be worth mentioning.

I've got the Intel i9 10900K and EK-Quantum Magnitude Nickel Acetal and I'm wondering if it is okay to use Liquid Metal between the two? I'm not sure what material the IHS of the 10900K is made of, so I just want to be sure of that and if it is safe to use Liquid Metal between these two parts. Another question is, will I notice much of a difference using Liquid Metal between the IHS and CPU Block rather than just regular Thermal Paste?

Hey guys, I'm planning to repaste my laptop with a liquid metal (Conductonaut) today or tomorrow, but first of all I would like to ask some questions: 1. Do I need to spread the LM completely to the edges, or is it enough for it to be spread like 1mm from the edge of the die? Because I think that having a little gap there could drastically reduce the chance of spilling, but maybe it would reduce the cooling effectiveness, I don't know. 2. Transistor protection - I unfortunately don't have a clear nail polish and can't buy one because of lockdown. I have an electrical tape, but I heard that it can melt and stuff, which is obviously bad (even though I saw a video of a guy that used it for like year and it was perfectly fine). Wouldn't normal non-conductive thermal paste (MX-4) applied to the or near the transistors work well as a protection/wall in case of spilling? My another idea was to put a tiny teeny strip of a 0.5mm thermal pad in between the transistors and the die acting as a wall. It would probably fit there but I'm not sure how well it'd do the job. Thanks for your help

So, I wanted to try upgrading the TIM on my 6900XT to Liquid Metal. I took the card apart, cleaned off all the thermal paste, and put clear nail polish over the small components near the die. Then, as a sanity check, I put the graphics card back together (putting the thermal pads back in their spots) with no thermal paste. I just wanted to see if it was broken already. My computer posted, everything was good. Went to play a mid weight game to test basic stability, rgb pixels took over my screen. I instantly cut the power, turned it back on, and it seemed okay. I figured I overheated the die, so I used AMD’s software to undervolt the gpu so ir doesn’t cook as much. Tried using my computer, it black screened. No video output. Monitors detected a signal, but there was nothing. Turned the computer off, then it never detected a signal on the monitors. I disconnected the gpu entirely, plugged a monitor straight into my motherboard, and got a signal. Put the gpu back in (after turning off my pc), but no signal again. The VGA debug light is now on, tho. Is it dead? How can I check?

I was wondering just how much better would it be to cool a PC with liquid metal and full liquid cooling compared to cooling a PC with termal paste and air cooling? For simplicity sake, let's say this theoretical PC has a RTX 3070 and and Ryzen 7 5700X. When air cooled, the pc would be in the most realistically ideal senerio for air pull, the liquid cooled pc would also be in a realistically ideal cooling situation. Just so you know, I don't know much about liquid cooling. I just wanna know how much better it could theoretically be.

Specs: CPU: i7-7700k @ 4.20 GHz (Turbo boost: 4.5GHz) [delidded] Mobo: Asus Maximus IX Extreme GPU: Gigabyte - GTX 1080 Ti Waterforce WB Xtreme Edition 11G RAM: 32GB - G.Skill - Trident Z RGB - DDR4 3600Mhz - 32GB (8GBx4) - 16-16-16-36 PSU: Seasonic - PRIME 850 W Titanium Custom Cooling system: Radiator: x2 radiator (520x30x60mm) Radiator FAN: x8 Noctua (120x120x15mm) Pump: EK-XRES 140 Revo D5 I built my PC 5 years ago (specs in my profile), never changed neither thermal paste nor cooling liquid since then, temperatures rarely exceeded 50C (while gaming). Now I feel the need to overclock my system, to improve performance in some games (specifically Valorant, which is particularly demanding with the CPU). I did some tests at 5.0GHz and this is the best overclocking setup I have found so far: CPU ratio: x50 Cache ratio: x42 Vcore in BIOS: 1.415V Vcore mode: Manual XMP profile: Disabled iGPU: Disabled LLC: 5 AVX offset: x0 Vcore under stress (measured*): 1.411 V *FLUKE 179 multimeter using the average function and measuring for 1 minute With this configuration after 17 hours of stress test with Prime95 (Blend mode) I got an error (Rounding was 0.5, expected less than 0.4) on core 1. Now I'm running another Prime95 session with the Vcore at 1.420v Once I find the stable vcore, I would like to switch to adaptive mode (and playing with the offset) to reduce CPU stress and increase CPU life expectancy. What do you think? is it a good idea to use adaptive mode instead of manual mode? In any case after 5 years I think it is time to change the thermal paste, coolant and thermal pads (although the temperatures are still good). I would like to use liquid metal instead of thermal paste for the CPU, but I cannot find information on the material of which the Maximum Extreme IX (bitspower) monoblock is made, I think it is nickel-plated copper, but I could not find official information about it. Can someone please tell me what material is it made of? Also where can I find the dimensions for the thermal pads (thickness, length and width)? Any suggestions are appreciated!

Right before you say yes i am comfortable with and use Liquid metal very oftenthe thing is I am unsure as to do it or not on the 3950X as it can throw off so much heat that the thermal paste is becoming a bottleneck so debating whether to go LM or something else for it, I am using an NH-D15 chromax atm with MX-4.

Hey Guys I would like to put liquid metal in cpu / gpu and I don't know how to coat the PCB / capacitors. Unfortunately, where I live there isn't MG Chemicals 422B and I need a solution for that. I would like to know what are the characteristics of good nail polish to apply. I didn't like putting Scotch 33+ or Kapton, because I don't know if it would take off after some time. Can this product replace MG Chemicals 422B? https://mauser.pt/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=115_1991_2691&products_id=091-3445

Hey guys, I'm just wondering if it's normal that my 3900x is hitting up to 73c when hitting it with folding at home at 4,08ghz... I have a dual 360radiator (6cm thick) D5 pump Water temperature is max 29c My 2080 only hits 40c (full load furmark) Room temp is 21c Latest bios x570 pro I find it kind of strange that a 2080 has a delta of 11c when my 3900x has a delta of over 40c.... And my 2080 has no liquid metal.... Do you guys think it's due to 1 bad liquid metal application 2 Bad waterblock 3 Or......

First of all: Yes I am guilty of gaming on a PC and a Playstation. Don't wanna miss out on Final Fantasy, affordable VR and Couch-Coop But my PS4 Pro is 4 years old, got louder over time and especially more demanding games make it sound like a jet engine. When playing Shadow of the Tomb Raider for about 15 minutes the Sound Level reached over 65 decibels! I know this measurement isn't perfectly reliable but it is good enough as a comparison and way better than with those decibel-meter apps So anyways I decided to do something about that. I did my research, went shopping and here is what I did: First of all I consulted ifixit.com on how to strip it down to the MB. Then I prepared the APU with nail polish before applying liquid metal instead of the cheap thermal compound as der8auer taught us I used Coolaboratory Liquid Ultra since it is a little thicker than Liquid Pro and more conveniant to apply. The mosfets got new PHOBYA XT thermal pads. Now to the other side of the MB where the eight 512 MB RAM chips are located. Those got solid copper heatsinks. In order for the fan to cool them I had to dremel out a portion of the metal plate that covers the MB. Now I cut a few holes in top and bottom cover on which I mounted 120mm BeQuiet Pure Wings 2 fans with Aquatuning dust covers. One on the top to push fresh air into the stock cooler. And one on the bottom to cool the RAM and the back of the MB under the APU. To power the fans i soldered a two-pin fan cable directly to the 12V fan controller of the PS4 Pro. To still be able to control the fanspeed I used the Noctua NA-FC1 fan controller and hooked the Pure Wings up to it. The cables mostly run inside the PS4. I asked a friend to print me four feet for the PS4 to give the bottom fan enough clearance. While I was at it I also replaced the slow HDD with a Samsung QVO 1 TB SSD. So now all there's left to do is wait for a thunderstorm and yell: "IT'S ALIVE! IT'S ALIIIIIIVE!!!" Later I found out that the whole build including the new feet was too wide for the old spot on my subwoofer So I repurposed the feet and positioned the PS4 in the upright position. And I gotta say after the whole mod I like it way better that way. I can tell you that the result is significantly quieter than before and not annoying at all. Noticeable at best and that's all I was aiming for. After the same 15 minutes of playing SotTR I measured a sound level of only 51 decibels. That's 14 less that before! And by the way: the SSD literally cut my loading times in half. Before it took about 90 seconds from dashboard to start playing in Shadow of the Tomb Raider. Now it's 40 seconds! So that's about it. Thanks a lot for sticking with me until that point and feel free to ask if you want to know anything. Cheers from Switzerland Martin