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I'm in dire need of getting my setup purely wireless as I not only have pets that like the taste of wires, but also getting a new sofa and chair soon and I won't be able to use my current setup with my table next to me for my mouse (I couch-game) as my new throne is significantly wider and the arms are a definite no-go for a mouse due to it's design. I have tried my hardest to find alternatives, but I can only seem to find the Corsair K63 or 2 variants of Razer Turret. One of which is what I look for in a keyboard (slim membrane keys), yet it's mouse area is too slim to effectively game on and the Xbox variant and K63 have chunky mechanical keys which I am not a fan of as they are too noisy. Are there any other alternatives for wireless couch gaming that I may have missed? Preferably not any more expensive than the K63 setup ideally.

So I've found myself using my cheap logitech keyboard (I believe the K400r) for couch/bed use with my HTPC mostly just for web browsing and netflix marathons of NCIS. Been thinking of going towards getting a real keyboard/mouse to use with the thing now to do some occasional gaming and remembered Corsair brought out that new lapboard to use with the K63 wireless keyboard. After reading reviews, I found that the K63 wireless isn't all that fantastic with syncing up and battery life so I've wondered, not just for the fact that it'd be RGB, if the wired K63 would work in the lapboard? I honestly don't mind wires laying about especially if it means I'd have better performance (I'm a function over aesthetic kind of guy) so if I can get the wired RGB k63 that'd be fantastic. Anyone know? Thanks in advance.

I bought a little Bitcoin about a year ago, and I cashed most of it in in January to upgrade our spare bedroom into a HTPC / projector-gaming room. To keep costs down (sadly, I only bought a little BTC!) I made a point of keeping the project DIY. I'm no master craftsman, but I can (usually) get a jigsaw pointed in the right direction ... My final project was to build a THIN, LIGHT and INEXPENSIVE lapboard to go with the keyboard-mouse combo I'm rotating in from my main rig: a Logitech Spectrum g502 mouse and g810 keyboard. (OK, those two aren't exactly cheap - but this lapboard-build will work with any mouse-keyboard combo!) Also: besides the thin, light, inexpensive thing, I ALSO wanted the mouse IN FRONT of the keyboard rather than beside it. That's partly because my son is a southpaw (=right hand mouse doesn't work for him!) - but even more because that's how I like my stuff positioned. Feels better to me, and that's how I always setup my work space. This is what it looks like: Materials & Tools Mouse & Keyboard (in my case: Logitech Spectrum g502, g810) Cloth Mouse Pad (in my case: Logitech G G240 (M) - 34cm by 28cm 5m USB extension cable 8mm (slimline) USB hub (mine's an Icy Box 4-way) 2 sheets 4mm plywood 43cm by 54cm (I used poplar - super lightweight!) 1 sheet 8mm plywood 43cm by 54cm (I used poplar - super lightweight!) 1 box 16mm wood screws Wood Glue Double Sided tape (for the hub) Sanding Paper (80 grit through 400 grit) & Block Some kind of varnish (preferably water-based, unless you like fumigating yourself!) Jigsaw with slim, fine-toothed blade Screwdriver that fits your screws Idea The idea behind this is a three-layer sandwich - The top layer (4mm) has a cutout for the mouse pad so that the mouse doesn't slide off the board when it's at an angle - The middle layer (8mm) has a large cutout-space under the keyboard for (1) the 8mm USB hub (same width as the wood, see!) and (2) the mouse and keyboard cables. It has an external exit hole for the hub and keyboard cables, an internal exit hole for the mouse cable. - The bottom layer (4mm) holds the cables in and helps stabilize the lapboard. (In retrospect, a 6mm bottom would have been even better - as it is the screws poke through just a bit.) Construction - After making a mock-up out of beech wood that felt too heavy, I chose three sheets of the lightest plywood they had at my local DIY-center. In my case that was poplar. The dimensions on mock-up were a good bit tighter - exactly the width of the keyboard with a tiny bit of vertical space between the mouse area and keyboard. It worked OK, but it felt cramped - particularly the lack of vertical space between mouse a keyboard. The current dimensions (43cm by 54cm) feel perfect for me, but YMMV! Jigsaw work - I drew a rectangle on the wood and traced the edge of a water glass to round out the corners. Probably the trickiest part of the whole project is jigsawing the "mouse hole" in the top layer. 4mm poplar is DELICATE stuff, and if you treat it roughly, it'll rip apart! Use the finest blade you can get and go slow! Then use sandpaper to smooth down the edges and get a regular shape. (That's nice about the polar - 80 grit sandpaper can make a big difference fast!) Note: Use sandpaper to bevel the inside edges of the "mouse cut" - otherwise it'll cut your wrist! - The middle layer is easier, since it's much more robust and not really visible. The important thing is a gap for the USB hub with space for two cables (hub cable and keyboard cable). Besides the picture above, here's how I fit in the USB hub. - The bottom layer is just there to hold everything together, so, actually nothing to do here! If I had it to do over, I'd use 6mm instead of 4mm - as it is, my 16mm screws don't actually poke out the bottom, but they do create tiny raised bumps. Finishing When I had my three sandwich layers done, I screwed them together WITHOUT the mouse pad and electronics. This made it easy to sand all the surfaces, smooth out, round and and bevel the outer edges. I put down about 5 layers of varnish while the layers were screwed together. I suppose I should have unscrewed THEN put down the varnish (the layers could have stuck together), but it didn't happen. Building in Up Getting the thing put together is a little fiddly. Step One: Add some glue to the BOTTOM of the middle layer and place it on the bottom layer. Step Two: Add a layer of double-sided tape to the bottom of the USB hub, position it correctly, press into place. GENTLY lay the mouse pad into place. (One disappointment here: I meant for the Logitech "G" to be visible, until I realized that it was too close to the edge. So I turned the cloth upside down. Oh well.) Step Three: Set the mouse and keyboard in place and curl the cables into the recessed area as best as possible. This was SUPER fiddly, and it took me about three tries (and some blasphemy) before I got them all into place well enough to get the top layer to lie flat. Step Four: But it DID work out in the end! Step Five: Turn in the screws, being particularly careful when you go through the mouse-pad cloth so that you don't pull it out of place. The cloth is thin enough that it fits between the layers - and the the layers of wood hold it snug, once they're screwed together tight. Done! And that's pretty much it. A couple thoughts: - You CAN take it apart without destroying it - the top IS NOT glued, only the bottom. But it would involve removing about 20 screws, so yeah ... (I've seen more elegant ways of doing this but they were thicker, heavier and involved hinges and stuff). - I considered making a second channel on the right of the board to hide more of the keyboard's cable. I also considered various ways of fastening the keyboard more firmly. I decided to build it this way so that I can move the keyboard around a bit, depending on what I'm doing. - The hub has one port facing outward - and it's a completely viable port, too. Handy if someone has a USB stick ... - I really do wish I'd used a 6mm bottom layer though!