Search the Community

Way back in spring of 2014 I decided to see if it was possible to shove an Intel NUC inside a Super Nintendo Advance fight stick controller. Back then I documented my progress on a now defunct online form and since its demise I've decided that this content might be entertaining and maybe even borderline helpful for someone else who might want to attempt this themselves. At the very least you'll get a bit of a chuckle at decades old tech being turduckin'd into even older piece of decades old tech. I also recently got stuck reading some old NES case builds here on the LTT forums and decided it might be time to repost/update this project. Regardless, I'm bored and waiting for my EK parts order to arrive so I can start documenting my first liquid cooling build... Part of my background is Arcade collecting/restoration and this idea stemmed from wanting something to tinker with as I was building my first MAME cabinet "Flynns Arcade" back in the mid 2010's. (I'm also a bit of a content creator on YouTube as one half of The Canadian Arcade) I'm a HUGE Nintendo collector, some of my arcade cabinets are some of the rarest Nintendo ever made: Sky Skipper, Sheriff, a red 5-slot Donkey Kong to name a few. I had always thought it would be nice to have everything from the late 70's to mid 90's all in one place so I could check out arcade/console titles I may be looking at buying in the future, or at the very least have something cool to collect dust in a display cabinet in my home (spoiler alert). I know I could do this with an rPie, but back then the idea was more about putting an actual on Windows PC into the controller then it was to build something like a RetroPi. Plus RetroPi was in its infancy and we were still all using old laptops and PC towers for our MAME builds. As with any project I embark on, I like to document the images for it on my Flickr gallery found here. There'll be a few more images there if you want more content than whats found here or you want to see some of the other things I've build/restored, (bluetooth speaker in a .50 cal box, my desk project, dozens of arcade cabs, etc). Anyways, on the with project... The idea here is simple: Install an Intel NUC into a Super Nintendo controller, Install windows 7, shell it with Maximus Arcade, and install all of the available and compatible Nintendo Arcade/console/handheld systems into it that the buttons of the controller will support. Basically everything sans light gun games that would work with an 8-way stick and 8 buttons. This includes all titles on Arcade hardware prior to the mid 90's, (DK era and older, Nintendo Vs. Unisystem, Playchoice, SuperSystem), Gameboy, Gameboy colour, Gameboy Advance, VirtualBoy, NES, SNES, Famicom, and Super Famicom, etc. If you're not into any of the world of Arcade history, (or younger than 40), in 1986 Nintendo released a line of arcade cabinets (and cabinet upgrade "PAKs") under the "Playchoice" name brand. These cabinets were an evolution of the Nintendo Vs. System, an arcade platform that mirrored the recently released NES consoles at the time. Basically the idea was Nintendo wanted to bridge the gap between the classic Arcade and your living room, slowly moving gamers from dropping coins into cabinets to being able to sit on your couch and have unlimited access to the games you and your friends wanted to play. Unlike other arcade console ports at the time the Vs. system was a revolution in that the games on its NES console counterpart were 1 to 1 to the gameplay and graphics found in the arcade cabinets. (Actually, thats not 100% accurate, Vs. Super Mario Bros is quite a bit more difficult than NES SMB...). Nintendo sold the benefit to Arcade operators that once you bought into the Vs hardware you could easily swap the titles on your cabinets to a new games in order to maintain player interest and profitability with very little modification/conversion. However A couple years later with Arcade operators frustrated that Nintendo was moving their clientele out of their establishments and into the living room with the NES, Nintendo decided to release one more blow to the industry status quo with the Playchoice. Unlike most other arcade games (Vs system included) that relied on the player to die or loose the game only to need to insert another coin, the Playchoice operated on a game timer where the player could keep playing regardless of skill. This also served as a place where players could visit to test out some of the latest games on the NES before buying the cartridge for home use. The Playchoice was a massive success for Nintendo at the time. As an operator you could load up to 5 or 10 NES/Playchoice titles into your cabinet and players would be able to chose and re-chose at any point what game on the list they wanted to play as long as they had more time on the clock or more coins in their pocket. This was a win for Arcade operators as they could still get the foot traffic and coins into their arcades, A win for players who wanted to try out the latest NES titles without having to buy the cartridge, and a win for Nintendo because they kept players interests/money and kept the arcade operators happy even if they were slowly killing the industry by moving the players to their own living rooms. If you haven't figured it out yet, this is where the name of my project comes from. As a side note, Nintendo would later release a 3 game SNES arcade cabinet in arcades dubbed the Nintendo Super System. I set out with a few design goals: Minimize any kind of external modification to the Advantage controller, aside from power button, I/O. Build using an Intel NUC DCCP847DYE, 4Gb RAM, 120GB SSD, Wifi, Bluetooth, etc. Teensy USB Dev Board to interface the controller to USB. Windows 7, shelled with Maximus Arcade Custom Nintendo Maximus Arcade theme GUI Starting with the controller/PC case, Those of you who are in your late 30's might remember these as one of the two more common fight stick style controllers for the SNES on the market. Made by Asciiware the Super Advantage was designed with the same design language of the SNES, and a followup to the first party fight stick controller the NES Advantage that Nintendo released back in the mid 80's. One of the coolest parts of the Advantage is that it includes a series of button modifiers that allows the user to either "Turbo" or "Auto" each of the L,R, A, B, X, Y buttons, and set a sensitivity setting for each button individually. All of those settings are processed on the gamepad, and will transfer into the PC input. It took me a couple weeks, but I was able to secure a good condition specimen from an eBay seller. I think I paid like $60 for it at the time, which was good because the vast majority available then in the Calgary area were beat to hell. I quickly discovered that it also takes standard M6 threaded arcade ball tops, so I tried a couple different colours that I had laying around, a red one and a bubbled smoke coloured one. I then started the task of tearing it all apart for cleaning... To my surprise and luck, the casting for the controller wasn't at all oxidized like so many of the SNES consoles have become over the years, however the PCB was absolutely filthy. Once I had everything cleaned up it was time to check fitment of the NUC. At that time there were a couple differnt choices of NUC on the market but I decided to go with the DCCP847DYE. This was for two main reasons, it was readily available, and there were a number of fan-less third party cases for it on the market so I could get my hands on a matching thermocouple for the CPU, more on that later.... Next It was time to start modifications of the controller. In order to adapt the Advantage to the NUC, I'll need to cut the console cable (*Gasp!*) and solder in a Teensy 2.0 dev board. The Teensy is a USB-based microcontroller that will allow me to adapt the signals from the controller wires to a usable USB signal. Using an online tutorial (that I can't seem to find now for the life of me) I loaded the Teensy with the appropriate .Hex file and soldered it to the controller cables. For this build I'm going to be using a Crucial 120gb mSATA SSD, a pair of 4gig ram sticks out of an old 2011 MacMini, and an Intel WiFi/Bluetooth card. For the OS I've gone with Windows 7. This PC's main purpose is older emulators so we don't need much horsepower or disk space considering the entirety of the pre-1990's Nintendo library can fit on a single USB drive then (and now). I also briefly tried using a pair of antennas from an old Linksys wifi router, however I didnt want to buy smaller ones and I definitely didnt want to mount them on the outside of the controller. Looking at an older picture in the build album I just realized that the original NUC case had a pair of antennas! So I just went downstairs and dug out the box, (which still makes the intel chime when you open it. Not bad for almost a decade sitting in storage!). At any rate, I might as well update this as we go I pulled the antennas out of the old case and reinstalled them into the build with a bit of kapton tape. Ok, going back to April 2014, I needed to have some sort of power button on the outside. Looking back, I probably should have done some sort of magnetic reed switch or something, but I decided on a simple momentary switch. I wired it up with a couple connectors and some molex micro fit, drilled a small hole in the back of the controllers shell and then wired it all up. Now to the fun part. Unfortunately with the size of the cooling fan installed on the CPU it's not going to fit. However as mentioned before, back in the day there were a series of aftermarket case makers that had a small range of fan-less cases for the NUC and one of them was even nice enough to sell me just the thermocouple. I can't remember who it was, but without this piece (or access to a CnC) it would have been impossible for 2014 me to finish this build. A thermocouple is useless without a heatsink of sorts so without wanting to build my own heatpipe and with Noctua at least a year away from being founded, the best option I had in front of me was the massively thick steel base of the controller. Yes, its steel, not copper or aluminium, so it definitely doesn't have the thermal conductivity of the original case, but then again this is an Intel Celeron 847 so its not like I need to strap an AIO or some elaborate outdoor pool cooling system to it. However I did need to make sure that the NUC was tight and secure to the base, which meant drilling and tapping some mounting holes. After removing the stock cooler, I mounted the thermocouple to the cpu and chipset with some included thermal pads and then mounted the whole board to the controller base plate with some screws I cut down to be the perfect length. Yes, a little janky, but it works, (and has for almost a decade...) At this point I needed to make a decision on I/O. As much as I didnt want to drill a bunch of holes, it was 2014, Airplay was a brand new technology, Wireless charging wasn't really a thing so I was going to at least need power and display out. I started by marking out some holes for the power plug and HDMI ports. In retrospect I should have gone all the way and cut out connectors for the USB on the back, but I still might do that later. For now a wireless mouse and keyboard is only needed when you need to make adjustments in windows as the emulator front end will load on boot and its all controlled by the buttons and stick. After (poorly) carving out the back it was time to wire up the NUC and make sure everything would fit. I did quickly realize I could do with just a bit more clearance, so I added a few thin washers to the baseplate for an extra mm of clearance. I also added a set of new rubber feet to the bottom to get a little bit of airflow and elevate it up off of any play surface. Now that the internals are done it was time to switch over to my other desktop and design the GUI for the front end. For the main logo/splash screen I decided on mixing the SNES and Playchoice logos. I also found a sprite pack from the Super Mario All-Stars release of SMB3 and used it to make the GUI and elements for the Maximus skin. I really like having game video snippet previews for each selection so I integrated those for each game in the library. On top of that each of the emulators got their own treatment in the selection menu. At that point I was pretty much done. All in all the project was a success, and I decided to celebrate by taking it to work and playing it in our boardroom with a couple of my co-workers. I used to work for the Sportchek/Atmosphere FGL Sports marketing team back in the day, so obviously the first thing we did was load up NES Ice Hockey, before I got a few rounds of Donkey Kong in. Looking back over the last decade this thing has mostly sat in an IKEA display case in my office in one home or another. It was a crazy fun project and it taught me a few things about programming dev boards, tapping metal, and designing a good looking user interface. Even though it doesn't get much play these days I still see it every time I walk into my office and the fact that I was able to shove a Windows PC into a SNES controller with a couple thousand games in it still makes me laugh a bit. Besides, it has some good company in there too...

Hi there! This is my first forum post. Long story short - roof broke and office flodded so now everyone gets new workstations. The boss has agreed to the Samsung LC49RG90SSEXXY. Now, I plan to hook this up with an intel nuc with the i5 -1135G7 with iris integrated graphics. This is purely for administrative work spreadsheets and accounting and such like. (NO GAMING) will i get 100 - 120 hz with 10bit colour via this method. The max output of the nuc is 8k @ 60 hz. Additonally I'm planning on hooking another one up to a more workstation like computer with a ryzen 3600xt and 1650super (16gb ram) for some video editing, photo work, and maybe a little blender work. and then general admin stuff (NO GAMING). Obviously I'd like to go with something like a 2060 super but in australia you'll pay $1000 for that card. The 1650S is already $480. Is this a solid enough choice of should I try and aim higher? Suggestions and input would be greatly appreciated. I would like to move forward with outfitting the office as soon as possible

What is the bare minimum functionality? 1. Movie Machine : local/streaming services. 4k 60fps HDR. 2. Web browsing. 3. Should not be outdated for at least 5 years. What would be bonus ? Some light gaming For the above mentioned use case can anyone suggest an Intel NUC model. I went through their website and it's a mess. Unable to filter out the offerings so could not find a suitable build.

Situation: I have a NUC (Model:NUC8BEB, Version:J72693-305) on the back of an office conference room tv. I am curious to know if any solution have been found to allow Wake On LAN over WiFi. The adapter properties clearly show that it is an available feature, but I have not figured out a way to do it yet. Google searches claim that it is impossible unless it is wired. Any thoughts?

Hi. I can see in the ltt video of the youtube play button Alex made a cpu base plate for the intel nuc. Does anyone have a stl for this that can be shared as there seems to be very little out there in Nuc cooling options short of busing an Alaska case Thanks. S

Hello Everyone I want to share my design of the mini case It's a very time-consuming project It's a pity that I can't upload more pictures. I still have a lot of details to share I'm trying! Case Plan My goal is to design a case that can replace parts freely It's smaller than the Gigabyte thunderbolt 3 gamengbox dock or NUC 9 Extreme It can be an x86 soft routing / Gamingstreaming Server / Remote Workstation Case Specifications Case Size 2.6liter 156x192x90mm Motherboard NUC with Intel or AMD GPU Size MAX 186x122mm 2slot Power 12v 400w Industrial power supply Cooler 1U LGA2011 Soaking plate + Fan 3x7010 1x9013 Storage Drive The only m.2 port is connected to the GPU, and there is a 2.5-inch SATA hard disk in the chassis. Because I think the bandwidth of SATA is not as fast as that of usb3.1, so I currently use usb3.1 to m.2 SSD

What kind of RAM do I need for a Intel NUC 11 Essential Kit NUC11ATKC4? The specs say DDR4-2933 1.2V SO-DIMM. I looked at several vendors and 2933s seem to be very rare at SODIMM configuration. For ECC SODIMM however there seem to be lots of 2933s. Does anybody know if I can use an ECC RAM on this Intel NUC Kit (CPU: Intel Celeron)? For example the Samsung M474A1K43DB1-CVF? Or which RAMs would fit here? Btw. I want to have 8 or 16GB in dual channel.

I have a Razer Core X for running a GPU with my intel nuc and it randomly stopped powering on anything but the power supply fan. The GPU and main case fan do not power on. Anyone know why this is happening?

https://ark.intel.com/content/www/us/en/ark/products/205033/intel-nuc-11-performance-kit-nuc11pahi3.html It stated that it doesn't have TPM, will that be a problem for windows 11 Pro ? thanks

Looking for one for watch & streaming but no gaming in it. Thanks

So I was thinking about setting up some Intel NUCs (or any other Microcomputer) that would have a like Arch Linux set up where when you wake it up it shows up with a menu with VMs and real machines. So my problem when a family member would want to do some stuff on Windows 7 for making a photo book or whatever, they could open up their VM and Iit would be seamless for them. How would I add the capability to have USB ports on the NUC act like they were physically attached to the VM(i.e when she plugs in a usb into the NUC it automatically shows up on the VM) or any other I/O for that matter? I have/will have the follwing Dell Poweredge 2950 running Proxmox , with Intel NUC Clients running Arch Linux.

Hey, I am looking for a way to build laptops and I have found the pretty awesome laptop manufacturer, called Clevo. Clevo allows me to order the parts and build it myself, and thereby everything is modifiable, or rather almost everything... I will off course not be able to switch processor or motherboard, which would be fine if it wasn't because I wanted a thunderbolt port. This is where the NUC comes in, it haves thunderbolt, is cheap and has pretty cool processor. I know it is going to be a bit impractical, but I would really like to build a kind of prototype of my dream laptop. So please, if you just want to tell me, that it is going to be more expensive than buying from a brand, then please just don't comment haha

Hi LTT community! I am looking to build a dedicated server to host a couple of game servers, probably something around the lines of: 1 vanilla or modded Minecraft server || Player count: 6-10 1-2 Garry's Mod servers || Player count: 8-12 combined 1-2 Zandronum servers (classic DOOM online) || Player count: 8-20 combined (NOTE: the least CPU-intensive server of the three) If possible I'd like to keep the build small, low-power and low-noise (to the extent possible), but since I at the same time want to have decent performance I have been looking at various options for either/or. Right now I'm deciding between the following: An Intel NUC Bean Canyon with an i5-8259U CPU (4 cores, 8 threads @ 2.3 GHz) -- A small, low-power and low-noise choice. An Intel NUC Bean Canyon with an i7-8559U CPU (4 cores, 8 threads @ 2.7 GHz) -- Another small, low-power and low-noise choice. A custom build with a Ryzen 5 3600 (6 cores, 12 threads @ 3.6 GHz) -- The good performance choice. Someone said that for most game servers, having a CPU with good Single Thread Performance is important. I get that, so I started comparing the three. The Ryzen is of course superior in every way (links below), so my question to you is: Is the Bean Canyon with an i5-8259U / i7-8559U enough, or should I go for a custom build with a Ryzen 5 3600? Additional information: Planned OS: Some kind of Linux distribution, 64-bit. Planned RAM: DDR4 16-32 GB Planned storage: 240 GB SSD (for now) Budget: $650-$750 Planned uptime: 24/7 CPU Comparisons: Comparison of all three: https://www.cpubenchmark.net/compare/AMD-Ryzen-5-3600-vs-Intel-i5-8259U-vs-Intel-i7-8559U/3481vs3299vs3302 i5-8259U vs I7-8559U: https://cpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Intel-Core-i5-8259U-vs-Intel-Core-i7-8559U/m543736vsm543591 i5-8259U vs Ryzen 5 3600: https://cpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Intel-Core-i5-8259U-vs-AMD-Ryzen-5-3600/m543736vs4040 i7-8559U vs Ryzen 5 3600: https://cpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Intel-Core-i7-8559U-vs-AMD-Ryzen-5-3600/m543591vs4040 As seen in the first link, the i7-8559U and the Ryzen 5 3600 has quite similar single thread performance.

Wasn't sure if this should go here or the Linux forum. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ I'm having problems with Ubuntu 19 on an Intel NUC8i3BEK. About 30-60 seconds after logging in, I'll be unable to access the internet. My local network is discoverable, but if I try to use FireFox, Ubuntu Software Center, or even use terminal to get an program, it won't work, or will be incredibly slow (100-ish bytes per second). Here's the thing - there are no problems when using the "try linux" Live USB session. I'll still be able to surf the net after several minutes. It seems there's something going on between the live session and after installation. I confirmed this networking issues occurs whether wired or wireless. Some troubleshooting steps I've tried: Installing with and without that LVM encryption stuff. Installing with and without the 3rd party software option checked. Tried minimal and normal installation. The flavors of linux I've tried: Ubuntu 18 LTS, Ubuntu 19, Linux Mint 19.1, Manjaro (wouldn't even install), And a OEM type package Ubuntu I found for an older NUC model (couldn't get installed all the way) I've tried changing UEFI and Legacy boot settings because I saw someone mentioned that while googling. No difference. Tried with Secure Boot on/off (currently off) Updated BIOS Tried changing DNS to 1.1.1.1 or 8.8.8.8 (no difference) Information Intel NUC8i3BEK - M.2 Samsung 970 EVO Plus - Crucial 8 GB DDR4 Current OS: A fresh (minimal) install of Ubuntu 19.04 Desktop 64-bit BIOS: BE0071 I've attached a terminal screenshot from when someone in Discord was helping me earlier this morning. That output is the same for Live session and installed. I thought maybe the live sessions was using different drivers, but doesn't look like it.

Hi, I recently bought an Intel NUC (NUC8i5BEK). I am planning to use an external battery pack (Poweradd Pilot Pro2 https://www.ipoweradd.com/prod_view.aspx?TypeId=10&Id=274&Fid=t3:10:3) to power it when necessity arises. I would have 2 questions if somebody can gently help: - Does this set up work? Has anybody tried it before? The NUC will also need to provide energy to the external screen which is solely connected with a USB-C (Asus MB16AC, no independent power). - The NUC has a USB 3.1 port in front which is defined as "charging". If I connect the external battery pack to it (with a USB cable), would this be sufficient to power the NUC? Thank you! P.s. there is a similar thread here, although I have some limitations on the battery (I understand that airlines impose a limit of 27,000 mAh for hand baggage...)

i have been trying to install mac OS Mojave onto my NUC8i5BEK but keep getting 3 errors [shown here] pls help cause i have been trying to get this to work from mid October and have gotten very little help for r/hackentosh and tonmacx86

I am thinking of buying the INTEL HADES CANYON NUC. And there is just one question that lingers in my mind, Can I use it with a battery on the go? Just for programming on the go. Will be gaming most of the times at home. Is it even possible to use a battery with the NUC? If yes, then which battery will you suggest for a span of 3 hours approx. And a portable one of course! Thanks in advance!

Recently I successfully powered an Intel Nuc off a portable 20 volt laptop battery bank and thought I'd share my story for anyone interested in doing the same Background: I'd say about 2 years ago my 4 year old HP laptop crapped out and I was in need of a new computer. Having interest in my new discovery of the Intel Nuc and not wanting to break the bank I purchased a 5th gen Celeron Nuc for only $130. With that, I was able to recycle my old laptops memory, the Nuc had a VGA port that also allowed me to recycle my secondary screen, I had a copy of Windows on hand, and ended up purchasing a SSD for $40 bringing the cost of my new computer to $170. My goal was to keep things cheap as possible and I was also very intrigued to test out this new Nuc that I had just learned of. Although slow at times the Nuc's speed has been bareable for my needs, the one thing though that always bothered me from switching from a laptop to the Nuc was that I could no longer switftly move my computer to wherever I needed, it had to stay put at my workstation. This sparked the idea, with the Nuc being so small, that what if I could easily battery operate, keep it within a small profile and move it to where I needed as I pleased. Now I know some of you might be thinking, you should've just bought another laptop, and yeah that would've been a good idea, but where is the fun in that? (and also I was already vested to the Nuc) Process: The Intel Nuc uses a wall wart that supplies it 19 volts DC, just like many laptop chargers. I had once owned and used a battery bank for my laptop which sparked the curiosity if a battery bank would work the Nuc. Some research online yielded only one instance of someone successfully doing this to remotely operate a telescope, or something or another. I searched Amazon for what I thought would be a good fit and ended up ordering a total overkill 50K mAh battery bank that had both a 20 and 12 volt jack along with 4 USB ports. With the battery bank rated at 20 volts and not the 19 volts that the Nuc needed this caused some concern of compatibility. Some more research led me to find on Intels website that the Nuc in fact had been tested and working from the ranges of 12 to 24 volts. I went ahead and purchased the battery bank and decided to give a go. The battery bank came with a large assortment of jack adapters, and I was fortunate to find one that fit (somewhat). With that I made my connections, powered on the battery bank, hit the power button on the Nuc and waited for its little blue light. To my excitement the Nuc powered on and began to boot up. Unfortunately as the Nuc was booting, the display began to artifact and the colors were distorted once at the desktop. I went ahead and powered off the Nuc, wiggled 'best fitting' jack adapter and gave it another go. To my surprise the second boot was clean, no artifacting or distorted colors. I am also happy to report that my display and Nuc have been operating without any issue since. I'd also like to mention that I was able to leave the Nuc idling for 14hrs at the desktop only using around half the battery banks capacity THOUGHTS: This is a very niche project but hopefully I can help someone looking to do the same thing by sharing my experience. Although I could've gone with an AC battery bank I opted for the 20 volt DC bank in order to eliminate the need for the wall wart, to keep a small and lightweight assembly, for its large capacity and also to simultaneously operate a DIY portable screen off of the 12 volt port (I have yet to run them simultaneously because I need another power cable, but my screen does operate off of the battery bank's 12 volt port) This project has spring boarded me to my next challenging project, which is to battery power a desktop PC. I'm not going for a full on gaming/editing powerhouse, more so just a run of the mill desktop PC that can be used for light to moderate use in a small package and more importantly can be fully upgraded throughout the times. I have some things in the works and will share my findings when I get around to it The battery bank I used is the Maxoak 50K mAh battery bank https://www.amazon.com/MAXOAK-50000mAh-Portable-External-Notebook-Most/dp/B00YP823NA/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1537144186&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=maxoak+battery Although I came across the Poweroak 50K mAh battery bank which I'm pretty sure is the exact same battery bank $35 cheaper https://www.amazon.com/POWEROAK-External-capacity-50000mAh-Portable/dp/B073R6NKLW/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1537144255&sr=1-3&keywords=poweroak+50000mah

I need some help guys; I work at a night job (I'm a M'urse- male nurse ;-) with tons of hours to kill and I love DCS. I have a laptop that has X4 PCI lanes open and willing to connect to an external GPU with a Thunderbolt 3 port. Some questions: 1. I have heard that regardless of the GPU ability, there is a PCIe or CPU bottlenecking. 2. Therefore, given my specific specs, what kind of GPU should I opt for? 1060, 70, 80… etc.' 3. I can also buy for the same price (through an intel employee) the latest NUC - which one would do the work better? 4. Can DCS even run on these alleged setups anyway? Details: • My laptop: Lenovo ThinkPad X1 Yoga 2nd gen specs: [20JD004UUS] - 7th Gen Kaby Lake, 2 cores 4 threads, Intel Core i7 7500U @ 2.7 GHz, 4MB Cache, 15W - 8 GB DDR3 SDRAM @ 1866 MHz - SSD PCIe NVMe 512 GB Flash Memory - two USB 3.1 Type-C ports, both supporting Thunderbolt 3 with 4PCIe lanes • Possible eGPU's I can Buy: - Gigabyte Aorus GTX 1080 Gaming Box for 700 USD - Gigabyte Aorus GTX 1080 Gaming Box for 650 USD • Possible Intel NUC I can Buy: - Hades Canyon NUC Premium VR Mini Desktop Gaming PC for about 700-800 USD from an Intel employee benefit (Intel i7-8809G, 16GB RAM, 2x500GB NVMe RAID, AMD Radeon RX Vega M GH, Windows 10 Home) Any help from personal experience and benchmarking data would be immensely appreciated. Thanks guys!

I stumbled upon pictures of Intel's Hades NUC motherboard, and thought to myself, how cool would it be to shove it in a round fishtank, and mineral oil cool it. Now, here's the thing, Ideally, I'd like to run it with no heatsinks, but I could fit in a high flow, high torque fan to blow oil directly onto the dies. I have an idea to fit a pump behind the NUC's motherboard, linked to a radiator, as well as routing ports at the back. I'd love to have an embedded fishtank computer in a stone like wall. Thoughts on feasibility ?

Title says it all^^

Hey everyone, I'm sorry if this question got asked before, but the few threads I visited did not quite answer my question. So here is the setup: I'm planning on connecting an Intel® NUC Kit NUC5i7RYH to an Asus VX24AH. I need a video (2560x1440 @ 60hz) and an audio connection (I know the builtin speakers are probably terrible, but it's an office pc). The Intel NUC has a mini DP1.2 and a mini HDMI 1.4 and the monitor can only use fullsized HDMI as an input. So can I use just any mini HDMI to HDMI cable or do I need to look out for something special? I was planning on buying this: Mini HDMI to HDMI 1.4 Cable Thanks for your help! I'm really confused by those cable standarts right now...

Hello there guys, I'm a little bit short on time these days so hence why I came here to ask for your help. Basically I have few websites running on my PC / wamp server and I was thinking of buying something similar to Intel Nuc / Gigabyte Brix so that I wouldn't have to worry about my PC restarts etc. (I'd like it to be up 24/7). I know I could pay for hosting but I'd rather do it myself.. So, in short.. Could you guys suggest me few options for my 'project' (no overkills, something that'll get the job done & isn't too expensive) And also it has to be small, like the previously mentioned examples. Thanks in advance!

When will the winners of the nuc giveaway be announced

So for a few months now I've been wanting to build a small form factor computer to double as an HTPC and LAN box (sick of hauling my mid-tower around). I really like the Intel NUC, but as far as I can tell it doesn't have a dedicated graphics card (everything seems to run off 4000 series graphics). Basically an i5 version of this with dedicated graphics card and a 240 SSD would be perfect, I could bolt it onto my monitor when heading out to a LAN party, grab a mouse and keyboard and go. Does anyone know if Intel has plans to expand the NUC product line to include a version with a graphics card?