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Showing results for tags 'input'.
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I ran into this issue a little bit yesterday on my computer, but then restarting my computer fixed it. Now a coworker has experienced something similar so I'm interested to know how wide spread this might be. The issue relates to keyboard inputs only registering in certain program/applications and not others. KEYBOARD INPUTS NOT REGISTERING IN WINDOWS, BUT DOES IN OTHER PROGRAMS Windows 10 OS, it looks like the OS is no longer registering keyboard inputs within only Windows, but other programs/software's do. For example if I press the Windows key the task bar will open like normal but typing characters and nothing is registering. But if I select Google Chrome which I have open I am able to type and get characters to show up there just fine. OSK - Key presses My computer is working well now, but when I open OSK I see that only certain key presses on my keyboard are registering on the OSK GUI. I find it odd that regular characters are no longer showing signs of being actively used but others do. For example SHIFT, Windows Key, CTRL, CAPS Lock will register (toggle their color). But all the other characters (letters, numbers, misc) are no longer registering in the OSK GUI. . I suspect Windows released an update or drivers changes relating to input devices and was curious if others saw the same behavior or knew what was going on. Thanks for reading and any feedback you might provide. -
I was looking at input devices and noticed there is a field that reports what keys are available on the device(when applicable). However I have been unable to figure out how to use the hex number given to tell me what keys it has. It says it's stored as a bit map, but I've been unable to find anywhere the map of values. This article is helpful and explains how it works, but it's for another field: https://unix.stackexchange.com/questions/74903/explain-ev-in-proc-bus-input-devices-data I tried googling it to no avail, I can't find any documentation on it, and even reading through some of the source code I've been unable to find a way to understand the hex bit map. Granted I don't know C, nor do I have a deep understanding of the intricacies of linux, so it's possible even likely that I've missed something, but I don't know where else to go. Does anyone know how I can find the map of values or how I can decode the value given? Specifically this: B: KEY=20000 200 20 0 0 0 0 500f 2100002 3803078 f900d401 feffffdf ffefffff ffffffff fffffffe Thanks for any pointers or help! -
Also why is my ram capped at 1600mhz, I have a rog z390-f mother board with xmp profile 2 enabled. http://speccy.piriform.com/results/nwSZzA5j0sKHUBhJkXYDmC5 and please feel free to point anything else that may be hampering my performance. -
When gaming (I've tried multipul games, example is from Control) the mouse and keyboard freeze. So If i'm running in one direction I will keep running (for a few seconds) in that direction even if I take my finger of the keyboard or try and change direction. Frame rate don't appear to dip at all judging from the Nvidia counter on screen and the rest of the game run as expected. I'm running Malware bytes and PIA i've tried play with them on and closed, that doesn't make a difference. Any idea's would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, My specs are: Windows 10 MSI Tomahawk 7C91vA5 lastest none Beta bios (I tried the beta and it made no difference) AMD 5800X 4x8GB Corsair Vengeance RAM (3600MHz XMP profile 1) ASUS TUF 3080 465.89 Sabrent Rocket 1TB PCIE 5 Boot drive EVGA G2 (750W 80+ gold) IMG_0849.mp4 IMG_0847.mp4
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Going from playing on the built in display (60hz 1ms IPS) to an external monitor for the 4th time I have again noticed a decrease in input latency, in both gaming and regular tasks. And this happened on both "gaming" monitors (75/144hz 1ms) and plain old 60hz 5ms ones. The weird part is my laptop's HDMI is not connected directly to the dedicated GPU but instead goes through the iGPU as well (the 1050 is listed as a render only instead of full display device) and so I'm not bypassing anything and there doesn't seem to be any other performance difference. My questions are: Has anyone had this happen to them? What causes input delay on the built in display and can anything be done to fix it?
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I was wondering if I should splurge and extra 100 dollars for the 11700kf or if would be sacrificing any performance and how much performance I would sacrificing, on buying the 11600k. here is my PC part list.
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Hi guys I have a problem with my pc. Sooo i saw a video which a guy download a file to update the bios with a usb stick but he has a bios flash button but i dont have it on my mobo, maybe i cant find it. BTW my an orange led lights on when i start my pc which it written DRAM i everything lights up but gpu's fans are not spinning and i have no picture nothing onn the monitor CPU: AMD r5 3600 RAM: Trident Z 16gb 3200mghz MOBO: ASUS STRIX B450 F gaming GPU: AMD 6700XT thanks in advance
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I have a Xbox controller (not the Series' one, the one with bluetooth that came before) and in my pc I do not have bluetooth or WiFi built-in so I've been using cable just fine to play my games. Recently I decided to buy an USB bluetooth adapter to plug on my pc and connect my controller. The controller connected but no input was registered and the Xbox Accessories app did not show the controller. After some tinkering I discovered that my controller inputs are being read as Dinputs and not Xinputs, wich is very limiting since it does not pick up the triggers. The real question is: what determines the input from the controller being Dinput and not Xinput? Is the adapter? The drivers? Is there a software solution? Any insight will be helpful -
Put my Netgear Nighthawk info into my wpa_supplicant then into my microsdcard that goes into my Hotspot. Thanks! -
Hi! So I used to have a problem with my PC where I can not wake it from power saving mode by clicking on the keyboard or mouse. I recently exchanged my pc enclosure and this problem persisted and additionally when I turn on my PC the monitors do not detect an input. When I however shut down the PC by holding the power button for a few seconds and then boot it up again, the monitors detect a source and everything is fine. I would rather not keep doing this method everytime I turn on or wake up my PC. What I have done until now: I uninstalled my graphics driver and tried booting. Problem remains. I checked the power connector on the motherboard as well as checked for other cables not being plugged in all the way. My specs: MB: b450m a pro max CPU: Ryzen 5 2600 GPU: GTX 1080 Any suggestion for what I can try?
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So. I record a podcast with my 3 of my buddies. At this point it's just random conversations. Got a FocusRite Scarlett 18i8 (4 XLR inputs), 4 dynamic mics with stands and pop filters, XLR cables, and the necessary stuff to hook up the FocusRite to protools on my M1 MacBook Air. I plug my AKG K361 headphones into the 1st of the 2 headphone outputs, and hit record and we just go. But I have this problem where during recording, I can only hear 2 of the mic inputs in my headphones. I don't know if it's just that the headphones only play stuff from channels 1 & 2 or what, but it's been a consistent problem. I can only hear 2 of our 4 mics during live recording in my headphones. It pretty important to me to have all of them, so I can set levels, turn people up, mute them etc. I don't know how to fix this. The issue could be in ProTools, or in the FocusRite settings app, but it's all a little more complicated than I know how to figure. Any ideas? Thanks guys!
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Input Club's Hako Violet - Lightweight & Consistent
jiyeon posted a blog entry in Sowon's Switches Reviews
When Input Club and Massdrop - oh, sorry, I meant Drop - had a feud on mechanical keyswitches, Input Club settled and made their own 'Hako' flavor of tactile switches. What I have here today is the Hako Violet by Input Club, one of the lightest if not the lightest tactile switch I have ever used in my life, at just a 50g bottom-out from what I researched online about this particular switch. The Hako Violet is the brother of Input's Club Hako line, next to its siblings, the Hako Clear and the Hako True. All three of them are tactile switches and share the same Kailh Box design used in similar switches such as the Kailh Box Jade, Kailh Box Navy, and Kailh Box Heavy Burnt Orange, so they all include a remarkably boxy stem to prevent dust and moisture from entering the housing. My Kailh Box Jade review of which you can read here. As mentioned earlier, the Hako Violet is a tactile switch. Opening up the switch and taking a look at the stem, there is a noticeable dip in the leg of the Box stem. In my opinion, the Hako Violet isn't noticeably more tactile than an MX Brown, but is still soft enough to be satisfying and indicative of actuation. I believe this is due to the inherently lightweight nature of the entire switch as a whole which emphasises the sharpness of the tactile bump. My favorite thing about choosing this tactile switch over a mainstream MX Brown is the consistency of the switch's actuation. The Box stem is great for minimising stem wobble as well as promoting as consistent actuation on the keypress across an entire keyboard, as there is so much more surface area for the stem to slide down, making them extra smooth. Out of curiousity, I lubed the sides of the stem with thin Tribosys 3204 lube and I found that it did not enhance the smoothness of the switch in any way. I believe this may be because the switch is inherently smooth thanks to the design, and also that the Box stem sticks further out which leaks out lube when not pressed down. Input Club have done an excellent job at creating a switch which is smooth and tactile and that is all thanks to the Box-style switch. While I don't think the tactility is any better than a standard MX Brown, nor is it more extreme than a Zealios V2 switch, the switch's strong point lies in the consistency of actuation and smoothness of actuation. -
My windows has started taking random keyboard inputs while randomly connecting and disconnecting the keyboard. Sometimes its the windows key which remains pressed. Sometimes it spams a certain alphabet or holds the shift key other times some keys do not press. Also when I select any file in the explorer window it selects multiple files in order from the first. I have tried everything hard and fast. Like re-installing the keyboard drivers, updating the drivers, updating windows, factory resetting windows etc. Trying to scan for hardware changes using command prompt. Also tried using it on different ports and the same problem persists. The keyboard is working fine as the problem persists with the same pattern on different keyboard and both those keyboards work fine on other systems. The keyboard and functions work fine for a few minutes when I reboot the computer but comes up again. -
Hello, everyone! The issue is as said in title, to give more information on this, I'll start with the issue itself. The problem: while playing Cyberpunk 2077 and more recently, Warhammer 40,000: Darktide I have very often input freezes that make my input from mouse and keyboard unresponsive for several seconds, then it comes back to normal, I tested with Riva Tuner Statistics Server to see if I have anything overloaded (the CPU, the GPU, etc.) and everything seems fine. What I tried: - updating and clean installing all drivers; - windows updates as well; - optimizing nVidia Control Panel settings; - turning everything to low in the graphics options as well as optimizing each settings option in the said games; - trying other games (I didn't have this issue in other game, one example is Elden Ring which came out this year); - updating to last BIOS version. My Setup (not sure if every piece is worth mentioning, but why not): CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 3800x RAM: GSkill Trident Z RGB 16GB 3200MHz Motherboard: Gigabyte B550 AORUS MASTER GPU: GeForce RTX 3070 Ti GAMING X TRIO 8GB PSU: be quiet! Straight Power 11 1000W Platinum Storage: 250GB SSD KINGSTON 2TB HDD Seagate BarraCuda, SATA III 600 1TB SSD Samsung 980 Evo 2TB SSD ADATA Falcon (on this one I put the games, maybe I should try other SSD?). Display: x2 LED AOC Gaming C24G1 24 inch Keyboard: ACR 98 Akkogear Mouse: Logitech G502 Hero Headset: HiFiman Sundara Logitech Pro X Audio: Microphone: Rode Procaster Audio interface: Audient ID14 Speakers: Presonus Eris E3.5 Video: Elgato Facecam Elgato Key Light OS: Windows 10 Enterprise I could try playing with other mouse and keyboard, just for the sake of it, and I'll try that very soon, but since the issue doesn't appear in other games so far, I don't think it's this. Besides this, I'm pretty lost, never had this issue and I tried every fix I could find on the internet, nothing helped so far. Thank you for taking your time to read this! -
Hello, my girlfriend recently got her hands on some Sony WH-XB910N headphones and sometimes she issues them on her (2017?) MacBook Air. However things have not been very easy as we’ve encountered an issue we cannot find anywhere else. Whenever she uses the headphones she has to open the settings, go to audio, and then to input to hear sound from the MacBook. What I assume is supposed to happen is she’s supposed to hear her microphone playback through the speakers to test the mic, however instead of that happening, she is actually able to hear the audio output, but it’s much lower quality than it should be. This only happens on hee MacBook, tested on other MacBooks and laptops and this problem doesn’t happen at all. I cannot find a solution to this problem, and my last idea left is to hard reset the MacBook. but she’s not very tech savvy so doing that will take a day or two. Any help would be appreciated, thank you.
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Hi, guys, I'm new to the forums and hope someone can help me out as I'm getting kinda desperate. I have an old LG 23ea63 monitor and I kept my ps4 hooked up to it via HDMI, and my PC - via the DVI port. The monitor has an "input" button to switch between modes, and it worked fine until I gave the console to my friend to play for a few days. I now have it back and hooked it the way it was, but now the monitor refuses to switch to the HDMI output whenever PC is on giving feed via the DVI port. Thing is, the actual HDMI connection is working fine because when the PC is shut down and it can't locate the DVI source, it switches to HDMI automatically. But whenever the PC is on and I try to switch from the DVI image (which it locates as a priority) to HDMi one, it will just blink and turn back on the DVI. Here's a video of what happens: Tried two different cables, tried, resetting the monitor settings to defaults, PS4's HDCP setting is turned off unplugging everything from the monitor, but the same issue persists. Funny thing is, when I connect my PS3 to the monitor with the same cable, it will switch to it via the "switch" button with the PC turned on, but whenever the HDMI signal is lost (when changing resolutions, for example), it automatically switches to DVI whereas it never used to before. Also, the monitor won't find any signal at all when the DVI cable isn't pluged in, even when the PS4 is switched and hooked up via HDMI, but it always used to be like that from what I remember. -
Hey! So I have built my new pc and I immediately was forced to return my RAM because heatshield after 4 day wasn t attached to RAM :( NOW I have everything back on and my Audio is not working. When I plug in Mic and headphone jack in front ports, POP UP shows on my screen what is it that i plugged in (Input or Mic; headphones or input) I select Mic and then Headphones. I can hear sound through headphones but they are NOT RECOGNIZED by pc and I am still on speakers. I cannot get my 5.1 Speakers running because when I plug it in orange,black,green port (not line out) i won t hear a Sh*t , when i test it with windows those beeps will sound in every single one of them , but YouTube or Games etc. won´t play. I assume that because Headphones are not being recognized my MIC that is on them is not also recognized so there for it is not working. ANY IDEAS HOW TO GET IT TO WORK? I am desperate heh :/ . At the moment I have only green jack in Line Out , so I have 2 speakers out of 5 running. Motherboard GIGABYTE AORUS B450 Elite - audio controller is enabled in BIOS Tried unninstalling driver in device manager, did not work.
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Using windows 10 pro edition. I have set up 2 languages: - Bulgarian: with one layout "traditional phonetic" - English (Australia) with also one layout "USA, qwerty" And what I get in the taskbar is this: http://prntscr.com/enwlml This "БГР USA" cannot be seen in windows 10 settings menu, nor in control panel. The only place it can be seen is in the taskbar. Please help me figure out where it's coming from and to get rid of it. Thanks!
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Greetings, I am encountering an error upon running a script which allows users to select multiple viscosity (.visz) files to convert to OpenVPN (.ovpn) files. Error: Traceback (most recent call last): File "C:/Users/Name/Desktop/test.py", line 18, in <module> for line in f: File "C:\Users\Name\AppData\Local\Programs\Python\Python36\lib\encodings\cp1252.py", line 23, in decode return codecs.charmap_decode(input,self.errors,decoding_table)[0] UnicodeDecodeError: 'charmap' codec can't decode byte 0x81 in position 45: character maps to <undefined>
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Different v-sync options can have different different amounts of input delay. Linus has a few youtube videos that shows it, like this one. Can different video game engines have the some differences in input delay, since they are all programmed different?
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I was supposed to do a first time installation of Windows 10 on my computer, but my monitor (Acer X193w) showed "input not supported" after the Windows logo load screen (after booting into the flash drive with the Windows installer). The installation didn't even start at all. I can't really boot into safe mode because this is a first time installation of Windows. What should I do? Thanks in advance! -
Hello, Recently i bought a ZOTAC GTX 1060 3GB AMP Edition, It didnt come with an DVI-I to VGA converter so i just hooked up my HDMI cable to my tv above my monitor. The TV works nicely, but after a while it hurts my neck. My TV us a Samsung LA32C530F1R, My monitor is a LG 22M35B. My old MSI HD 7790 1GB OC Ed. can handle these just fine, but why cant my new and updated GTX 1060 able to? I tried multiple converters like DisplayPort to VGA, and DVI-I to VGA. I just recently bought DVI-I to VGA and thought the DP to VGA is unable to convert properly (active converter btw). My original monitor was undetected, so i was stuck with neck pain for a few weeks and im growing out of solutions since it has only 3 types of Input on my GPU, and my monitor only supports VGA. Heres a few things ive done: Newest Drivers of my LG Monitor and GTX 1060 DVI-I to VGA converter DP to VGA Converter (Active converter, because some say passive is less likely to work) Changed the cables, both VGA and the power block. Im honestly lost now. Could it be faulty of other inputs?!(cant be ALL 3 displayports faulty)
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(I'm a noob) I already have the Scarlett 2i2 and have been using it with some headphones and an XLR mic to record my guitar, however I wish to get some monitors to go with them something like the M-Audio BX5. My question is can I plug them straight into the interface and use them as regular speakers (I will continue to use my headphones for direct monitoring), so I can watch YouTube with them and listen to music? Thanks
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I have been having issues with my computer for serveral months in regards to aim and the fluidity of games. I will make a list of things I have done so I don't get suggestions I have already tried. It has been about 8 months since it first occurred and I can't figure it out and seemingly have tried everything. Any help would be endlessly appreciated. Thank you. I will note that the problem first started around the time I first used a audiotechnica at2020, I later removed the mic from my computer but it did nothing anyways and since there arent any drivers that are installed from it(I don't believe anyways) I dont see how that could be it. Alas, the list. One other thing, to describle the problem. It always feels like my hand is a half second or so behind what is actually happening on screen. I thought it may be ram, bought a new set of 32 gb. No fix. Thought it could be bad usb on motherboard, replaced mb. No fix. Thought it could be mice, I have about four now and none of them function properly. No fix. Tried to fresh reinstall windows, maybe I should give this another go? Its been a while. Tried to lower monitor from 144 to every possible hz. No fix. Markc in registry. No fix. Took overclock on all gear off. No fix. Purchased new drive and installed games on serveral different ones. No fix. I have tinkered with some files but I no longer recal what they were. People said it may help, but never did. Turned off powersaving mode on usb roothub. No fix. Reinstalled every driver for mice/gfx/mb/cpu, but I'd be welcome to know if there are anything that may help in specific to try again. Vsync on/off. No fix. My theories are that its either software related(which im not very knowledgeable in) so ideas are always welcome. Or that my cable from monitor to computer is trash? Not providing accurate response times etc. Cable is DVI. Or that my outlet isnt providing adequate power anymore for some reason/same for psu. Although I seriously doubt this. Thank you for reading, and thanks if you try to help. Would love to resolve this. -
I remember Linus doing a G-Sync test sometime ago, but I recall his findings being a "tad" different: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MzHxhjcE0eQ this video shows that G-Sync operates quite exemplary, very close to no VSync what he also discovered is limiting the FPS via nVidia Inspector is a really bad idea maybe the author can get it's hands on a FreeSync monitor for a future video
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