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Background lots of info on the laptop is in my initial review thread but a TL:DR is that this laptop is incredibly powerful but struggles to cool a 10900k (I know, who would have guessed it's hard to cool a desktop i9 in a laptop). I've been interesting in the hybrid coolers for clevo machines since before I bought this laptop, but obviously there are some problems. Mainly complexity, portability, and cost. The Parts I tried to keep this as compact and simple as possible while not compromising portability too much. I knew I needed a quick and easy way to disconnect the water cooling system if I needed to take the machine somewhere, there's really 2 options for this: Predone aliexpress kits with a 'water return function' that I was told is quick and easy but I don't know how much I trust them and they are quite expensive (another $300-$400 on top of the heatsink). Quick Disconnect Fittings I went with quick disconnects, the ones I got were from koolance. I was told the tubing is 3mm ID, 5mm OD. It's not, it's 4mm ID, 6mm OD. I had to cut up end off the rubber cover that shipped with the fittings and use as a kind of adapter in between the 3mm bard and fitting, this plus a zip tie seems to work pretty reliably, haven't had any issues but just in case I angled the laptop and positioned everything in a way that if one was to leak it wouldn't leak onto anything except the desk. (the fitting on the laptop heatsink are designed for 4x6mm tubing. I'll probably get some 3x5mm tubing and hope I can stretch in over the laptop's fittings. As for the rest of the loop I found this thing: It's a Barrow DARIDP-30, it's a pump, radiator, and mini reservoir all in one. It's perfect for something like this as it simplifies the loop to basically just 2 tubes between the laptop and it. Plus it's actually quite cheap, I got mine for $160 on eBay which is way cheaper than a pump+res+rad. The hybrid heatsink is from Aliexpress, here's a link for the X170SM-G/X170KM-G but they have one for a lot of Clevo laptops. Total Cost to watercool it is ~$600 which is quite a lot and honestly probably isn't worth it from a cost/performance perspective. Mini heatsink review Overall the performance of this heatsink is awesome however basically everything else was kind of eh. Mine arrived a little bit bent on one side but it still fit without issues. There were literally 0 instructions for where to place thermal pads so I just had to guess based off the stock heatsink, I guessed wrong... 3 times... Had to spend multiple hours trying different configurations until it wouldn't either hard crash under GPU load or throttle the CPU because the VRMs were overheating... The reason it took so many attempts despite only including 2 different thickness of thermal pads was that you have to stack thermal pads to make contact with most of the VRMs..... Also as mentioned above, I asked what size the tubing was so I could order QDCs and they told me 3x5mm, the tubing literally has '4x6mm' written on the side of it... The Benefits The main thing I was looking for was getting the CPU temp under control when playing games or just under short bursty workloads. That definitely happened, instead of the CPU stilling at ~60 and spiking up to 90+ it sits at 40-45 and spikes up to only ~70 max. (under a all core stress test like cinebench it still reaches the 90s). With the normal heatsink cinebench would throttle the CPU down to ~4.5-4.6GHz while pulling ~140W. Now it'll happily truck along at 5.0GHz while pulling just over 200W... Cinebench went from ~15000 to ~16400, I beat a stock 1950x xD. 3DMark scores honestly aren't much higher but temps are way lower. Without any real tweaking besides my quick GPU overclock that I knew was stable (+140 core, +800 mem) I got almost 12k in Timespy: It's also quite a bit quieter even with the radiator fan speed at 100%. Honestly might swap the fans with some Noctuas though. I believe any 120mm (25mm thick) fan should fit in that pump/rad/res combo thing. plus, like it's cool. Pictures Conclusion It's super cool. However if you just want to improve CPU temperatures I would highly recommend just getting the aftermarket air cooled heatsink as I tested it without the loop connected and while temps were obviously higher I was actually able to run 4.9GHz all core while pulling ~180W in cinebench. It also didn't spike as high during normal use. This is probably because they more than doubled the amount of heatpipes connected to the CPU compared to the stock heatsink. I'm just one to see how far I can push the limits and having a 10 core i9 @ 5GHz in a laptop is quite awesome, lol. Extras If you like this kind of stuff, check out @Meaker's thread here. Feel free to ask questions and suggest things.

I have an OCZ PCI Express 1TB Revodrive Hybrid storage solution I bought a decade ago. I struggled then to learn why it would sporadically crash my OS as my boot drive; no dice then. Five years ago, I was purchasing precious stones to make a ring for who is now my wife; to study them when they arrived, I bought a jeweler's loupe. Today I was researching 1TB SSDs and I thought, "You know, it would be nice if I could use my OCZ hybrid drive," or at least to know why, once and for all, why it refuses to stay stable. Then it occured to me, I always looked at the software and hardware interactions, but I never bothered to look close up at the device itself. So, I got out my jeweler's loupe. What did I find? I believe it's a missing resistor in position C214! This would explain why it would work for a few hours, days, or weeks and then just crash; because it would be fine as long as it didn't attempt to interact with the NAND flash associated with that resistor. If this is the case, these are my options as I see it: A) Figure out what type of resistor it is, find a replacement, and hire someone else to solder the new resistor in place (I don't have the equipment) -Pros: It could be a permanent fix to fully restore the device, a process that is simple to accomplish in theory -Cons: Finding the chip, doing the procedure without spending more than it's worth, potential permanent damage (Longtime LTT fan; I know what could happen.) B) Figure out some way to disable or halt the controller's access to or use of that NAND flash chip -Pros: Potential monetary cost is $0, no risk to physical damage, and theoretically I could start using it right away -Cons: Uhhh, is this even possible? Is this a software fix or would this too require physical manipulation (please no!) C) Some other option that someone out there can bestow upon this thread? -Pros: Could be better than both A and B -Cons: It could be another issue entirely! A solution may not exist, but here I am... I don't want to waste the money I spent years ago or the silicon I have now. What should I do? Please help me.

Hey all. I purchased a 980ti hybrid from EVGA almost six years ago, and lately my temps have been pretty toasty compared to a year or so ago. I used to sit around the low 30s at idle and maybe 50 or so under load, but now I've noticed that even under just general web browsing, my temps increase steadily until they hit the low 50s and then plateau; they won't get any lower after my system has been on for any length of time. Under real loads (gaming, torture test, etc) they get into the high 60s but never cools below 50. I understand that thermally the card is in no danger until well above 80, but still the numbers are concerning. The tubing is VERY warm even under idle though I do feel the liquid moving, and the rear exhaust is also very warm. Adjusting the fan does nothing (even ramping it up to 100%) to cool the card. I'm not very mechanically inclined and don't trust myself to tear it apart...but what do you guys think? The GPU market is chaotic right now and I really would rather not purchase another card if I don't have to. I'm using Precision X1 to monitor the temps and make adjustments. I also swapped the original fan that came with it for a Noctua one that is designed for radiator use, and that is plugged directly into the motherboard. I've cleared dust out with some compressed air the best I could. I've also ran the card at stock and have never overclocked it since the day I got it; I literally plopped it into my system and never touched it apart from cleaning it every so often. As a side note, this is a brand new system I put together only a couple weeks ago. I switched teams to Ryzen. I don't know if that matters or not. The case is a TUF GT501 and has three intake fans, a rear exhaust w/ radiator for the GPU and top exhaust for my CPU AIO. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you. EDIT: I ran a GPU specific benchmark (Heaven) and my temps slowly climbed until they hit their max safe temp (83 set my X1).

Hi, I don't feel like making an account on a car forum so Off Topic it is. 1. Step: Locate and drill out the dimples in the sealing insert. Make sure not to penetrate the 3,5 mm drill beyond the thickness of the plastic as this will damage the unlocking mechanism of the barbs that hold the piece in place or possibly the cable harness. (Bohren Sie ein Loch in jedem der vier Vertiefungen des Kunststoffeinsatzes. Achten Sie daruaf, dass der 3,5 mm dicke Bohrer nicht tiefer als das Material eindringt, um Beschädigung des Entriegelungsmechanismus der Widerhaken, die den Einsatz in der Karosserie halten, oder des Kabelbaums zu vermeiden.) 2. Step: Insert into the drilled holes a rod such that the advancing side points away from the horizontal center of the insert. Once inserted about 2 cm push the rod's end you are holding away from the horizontal center of the insert. This unlocks the barb that hold the insert in place. Then pull on the insert away from the vehicle. Repeat this for all four holes. (Führen Sie einen biegefesten Stab in die gebohrten Löcher so ein, dass das führende Ende weg von der horizontalen Mitte des Einsatzes zeigt. Sobald der Stab etwa 2 cm eingeführt ist, drücken Sie die Seite des Stabes, die Sie in der Hand halten, weg von der horizontalen Mitte. Dies entrigelt den Widerhaken des Einsatzes. Ziehen Sie nun am Einsatz, um ein erneutes Einrasten zu vermeiden. Wiederholen Sie die Prozedur in allen vier Löchern.) 3. Step: Pull out the rear side of the insert first, then to the right and outwards to maneuver the hinge by the fender. (Ziehen Sie zuerst die hintere Seite des Einsatzes aus der Karosserie. Dann schieben Sie den Einsatz etwas nach hinten und außen, um das Scharnier hinter dem Kotflügel hervorzumanövrieren.) Step 4: Unplug the door switch and lock unit. (Trennen Sie den Anschlussstecker des Verriegelungsschalters.) Step 5: Gently lever on the three barbs of the charging indicator socket and lift it out. (Hebeln Sie vorsichtig die drei Widerhaken der Aufnahme der Ladeanzeige aus dem Weg, um sie zu entfernen.) Half Done Assembly is the revere of disassembly. (Einbau geschieht in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.)

I recently upgraded from my Asus GTX 1050 2gb to a Gigabyte RX 590 8gb. Seeing as I no longer needed my old card, I gave it to a close friend of mine who still runs older hardware (an i3 and 8gb DDR3 RAM if I remember correctly) The problem is that he already has an RX 560 6gb and we want to know if it's at all possible to run them in tandem with each other. Could that work with modified drivers? Or would he be better off sticking with just one card? If that's the case, which should he go with?

Summary Starting in Amsterdam Lync&Co are rolling out their new fleet of subscription based vehicles. You can't buy them in any showroom but can sign up for the "mobility" subscription providing you an SUV, Crossover or Sedan. The company looks to expand their offering with a plug-in Hybrid SUV and a new "sharing" option Quotes My thoughts Like most of these proposed "subscription vehicles" it sounds a lot like a lease where you don't actually own the vehicle at the end but pay the same or more than what you would for leasing the same vehicle for 3-4 years. It definitely makes sense for some lifestyles and specifically now with less known about the future of vehicles whether petrol, hybrid or fully electric are going to be the sustained direction of the industry. Assuming you can change the vehicle at any time like the proposed Nissan vehicle subscription it may be practical if you are needing the most cutting edge tech features or have a changing need for daily and weekend fun cars. Lync&Co don't seem to offer a "fun car" with more practical options which I find unfortunate especially in Europe where some of the best roads are, weekend getaways are a highlight of most "fun car" owner's lives while wanting a practical hybrid during the work week. Sources https://newatlas.com/automotive/lynk-co-mobility-service-europe/

I am planning a new build in the near future with a 13700k when it comes out and a hybrid style GPU. I am trying to find the best way to cool everything and thought about having an NH-D15 cpu cooler and then top mounted GPU AIO cooler ( as an exhaust). Here is a picture of what I was thinking. I just grabbed this stock photo from corsair and marked it up. My main concern with this setup is: 1. Getting fresh air to all the components. I want to get fans on both the front and side panels (green blocks in the picture with airflow direction in pink arrows), but it seems like if I mount the GPU rad towards the front half (assuming it's 240mm) of the case, then most of the air would get sucked into the GPU rad and the CPU might not get much cool air. That may be an issue with the top fans on the front and side panel, but maybe not with the middle and bottom fans on the front and side panel. Would those provide enough fresh air to the CPU? If I moved the GPU rad towards the back of the case (on top of the NH-D15 essentially) then it seems like the GPU might not get enough air or I will be blowing hot air from the CPU into the GPU. 1. With the GPU under the CPU and NH-D15 cooler, I might have trouble mounting the rad at the top as an exhaust and guiding the tubes out there. I have never owned this CPU cooler, but I think it's on the larger side, so I am not sure if it would interfere with the tubes going to the top mounted GPU rad. I am also not sure if I can even fit a GPU rad above the NH-D15. might be a tight fit even with a large case like a 7000D. Any thoughts on this kind of setup? I am also thinking about using an AIO cooler for both the CPU and GPU, but I was curious if this method described above would be a decent alternative. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- With the double AIO setup and 2 rads, I was thinking the best solution would be top mounted GPU AIO rad (as an exhaust) and side panel mounted CPU AIO rad (as an intake). Here is a picture of what that would look like. I could also put the CPU rad on the front panel, but I figured I would keep the front panel full of 3x140mm fans to provide a better flow of fresh air into the case, instead of hot air from the cpu rad flowing across everything. But with the cpu rad on the side panel, i'd just be blasting the glass pane with warm air. Not sure if that will cause issues or if the warm and cool air will mix and make their way through the case and out the back. Any thoughts or suggestions on these 2 setups?

Budget (including currency): NA Country: United Kingdom Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Work editing and Gaming. Other details: Corsair One i180, M1 Mac Mini, 3 x 27" LG 4k Monitors. So I have been using this triple monitor set up for a while. Typically I have always built my own PC however I unexpectedly won an auction on eBay for the Corsair One. (I seriously under paid considering the timing) My Mac Mini is set up on my left monitor and the PC on the Centre and the Right. I have full control of both machines with Synergy. The PC is the host. My issue is sound. I am quite experienced with most systems and I was able to sue this setup back in the Windows XP and 7 days by just putting the Line Out from the Mac Mini (or previous PCs) into the Line In on the PC and unmuting it in the settings. I have just got a Creative Sound Blaster G3 (https://en.creative.com/p/sound-blaster/sound-blaster-g3) plugged into my PC to enable an Optical In and I am using the Optical Out on the MAC Mini (Which is also the headphone socket on the back) The idea is to create Seamless Audio pass through from my Mac to come out of my Logitech USB Headset on my PC. However it appears I cannot have multiple inputs at once. Has anyone achieved this? Any help would be hugely appreciated. Kind Regards

Hi LLT Forum Members! I'm new here and could use your help! Background and Budget (I almost wrote bidet. Being in your apartment for 10 days kills me. I blame the Corona and Working From Home) So, I am as the title says, building my first PC and coming back to PC in over 24 years. I'm probably as old as Linus (Hi Linus!) (My teammates on my video team, we always go on how Linus knows his facts. Thanks for the fantastic content as always.) I have what I would guess a modest budget for video editing mainly, 1500ish USD (I can budge a bit north of that if it makes sense.) Aim of the Build To clarify, I am a video editor and producer/shooter of content by trade. 1. Mainly, I'd like to use this machine to do editing in Premiere. Some AE work when necessary. And any audio applications like: Audition, and iZotope RX which I use to help polish audio in post. 2. I'd like for this machine to be a modest gaming computer second for things like TeknoP*rrot, racing sims, a little bit of COD Modern Warfare here and there, and RTS. Monitors Currently, I run 1 x LG 32UD59-B 32" 16:9 4K UHD FreeSync LCD Monitor and I'd like to run another screen later on. This monitor I'm running maxes out at UHD 4K at 60 hz. Peripherals As stated above, I would like to add a second monitor later. I have bought a windows Key so I'm good on that. I have a sufficient Keyboard and Mouse for what I'm mainly doing. Why am I Upgrading You Ask? - Glad you asked. I've been working for years now on an older Macbook Pro and the new Mac Pro is too expensive. - I'd like to be able to deal with 10-bit 4K and above footage in real-time if possible in Premiere. 5K, or some forms of light raw from certain Canon cinema cameras. BMCC, Red/Arri is another story. - I'd Like to do my color work in Davinci w/o crying over slow computers. - Most of all, I'd like to be able to have the horsepower to make H264 or HVEC exports quickly. What I have Spec'd Out So Far: Currently I've made my list here: PCPartPicker Part List Type Item Price CPU AMD Ryzen 7 3700X 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor $298.99 @ B&H CPU Cooler Noctua NH-D15 82.5 CFM CPU Cooler $89.99 @ Newegg Motherboard Asus Prime X470-Pro ATX AM4 Motherboard $138.99 @ Newegg Memory Crucial Ballistix 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory $159.99 @ B&H Video Card EVGA GeForce RTX 2070 SUPER 8 GB XC GAMING Video Card $503.98 @ Newegg Case NZXT H510 Elite ATX Mid Tower Case $149.99 @ B&H Power Supply EVGA SuperNOVA GA 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply $87.98 @ Newegg Wireless Network Adapter Asus PCE-AC55BT B1 PCIe x1 802.11a/b/g/n/ac Wi-Fi Adapter $34.99 @ B&H Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts Total (before mail-in rebates) $1504.90 Mail-in rebates -$40.00 Total $1464.90 Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-03-27 19:43 EDT-0400 Concerns with my build -My biggest confusions are the motherboard. There are so many choices. Did I pick a good choice? If not, what do you suggest? -I hear I can overclock ram. Which ram should I get? I'd like at least 32GB -Is my power supply Adequate in the sense of brand and model? I'd like it to be modular. Is there a better option that's not as expensive? -Can I do better on the graphics here? -Suggestions on fast, RAID 0 editing disks? -I'd love to use the Noctua unless you suggest something better. -Is my case choice going to yield a quality unit that I can hold more than 2 HDDs, and have great airflow? - Most of all, the system needs to be reliable. Thanks everyone! I'm looking forward to your suggestions.

https://detail.tmall.com/item.htm?spm=a1z10.5-b.w4011-3275124772.230.850f47f6ZVDC30&id=554952531628&rn=2deeeacb8ce1ef109a68e584b3cc4557&abbucket=13

Do you need Hybrid to have water cooling on a GTX1070 . Or can you buy your own and install it for cheaper price? IS IT A SCAM IF situational. Can I have the downside and upsides? Thank you senpai . I will suck your **** :^)

Hey Guys, Title in itself might seem a little stupid but seems as linustech is my treasure trove for knowledge, i haven't really been able to find anything that's been clearly definitive with regards to maintenance of a solid state hybrid drive. I'm planing on casing a 1TB seagate firecuda (128mb cache/8GB ssd) as an external drive. Need a pretty obvious and simple question answered: Does this or any other sshd fall under the guidelines for defragmentation or are sshds optimised by way of trim? I'm kind of trying to power through replacing all of my gear considering I got out of a relationship a few months ago and all the old gear is just giving me bad memories. I use my laptop rebuild as a healing platform. I'm rebuilding my laptop and putting together a new external drive to work through my way of healing. I'm mildly autistic with a meticulous specialty for picking specific parts when i build a computer. So if the above drive fits the box and doesn't need trim, it's gunna sit in my enclosure. Help a nerd out. Many thanks, Ryan.

Hello! My computer is very quiet... appart from my harddrive which sounds like a fucking jet. It has been noisy since I bought it. It's really good on every other aspect apart from the noise... Does anyone have any tips for a replacement? I really want to have a whisper quiet PC and it's really bugging me. Requirements: 2TB Really quiet/silent Preferably under 100$ Relatively fast (in the range of peaking at 180MB/sec) I'm really thankful for any response, have a good day!

Owner of an Asus T100TA for a few years and generally quite satisfied with it! But just like anything else in electronics - I'm pondering an upgrade. The functionality was enough at the time - especially for ~$400-450. But i'd like - a better CPU - some more RAM - on an actual FullHD (1920x1080) screen - an ability to expand storage via SD - at least the same several hours of battery life length I know there are options that use a screen that rotates completely around - but what I'm thinking of is the same as the Asus - a way to detach it. Anyone researched the market recently? What stuff is available?

So I have a gtx 1080 FE that is converted in to a gtx 1080 hybrid for my sister's rig. I've been noticing that the gpu runs relatively hot compare to almost every benchmark that I have read. I've done all the basic troubleshooting such as replacing the thermal paste and making sure the pump is working. I've also tried running the fans (noctua NF -f12s) at 100% and it lower the temps by about 2-5C but the noise is pretty bad. So just for note the card is overclocked with a offset of 202 mhz on the core 500mhz on the mem. The gpu is hitting 60C with an ambient of 22.5C which is pretty hot when I see other reviews getting delta Ts of 20C or lower (I'm getting about 37.5C here). The case is a Phantek Enthoo Evolv matx and the rad is mounted to the front as an intake. Tried mounting it to the back and top as an exhaust it made it worse (Hitting 70C). I know performance wise as long as the gpu is not hitting the thermal limit its okay. But when your gpu is getting 10C+ more then everyone else out there you start to wonder what the problem is.

I am planning on upgrading my Gpu to an EVGA GTX 1080 FTW Hybrid and my current case is the Silverstone RVX01. Not sure if the gpu will fit without cramping the tubing? Tried looking up images on a google search and didn't find much. Thanks guys!

It seems everyone on the internet has an opinion on how to do the Kraken G10 mod. For $50 at my shop, I take people's GPUs and do this affordable mod to help my (local) client's computers be quieter and cooler, easy peasy (We live in AZ, it's hot and dirty here). This time around, I decided to make a post somewhere on the internet of me doing one of these mods on my personal GPU, my EVGA 1080ti. The LTT forums seem forgiving enough so hopefully you guys dig it! These are all the photos I took of the process I went through to get the 1080ti cooled. The parts I used was a Kraken G10, and a Kraken X31 to make the mod. I also outfitted the radiator and bracket with Noctua fans, replacing the NZXT fans it came with. I always do my personal GPUs differently than I do my clients (I over-protect/over-build their cards while I'm a little less picky about my cards. Don't crucify me if you see something questionable. Be nice, I'm squishy.) Different than how I did my 1080 FE hybrid mod, my 1080ti was definetly gonna get some extra love on the VRMs and VRAM. I always get heatsinks to help cool the VRM and the GDDR5 memory chips themselves. I didn't cool the mosfets due to the questionable thermal tape-stuff on the tiny heatsinks I bought just for those. I will go back and and actually use some thermal adhesive to make them a permanent fixture to the chips on the PCB, but that comes with other problems (like selling my personal 1080i to someone who doesn't want the Kraken bracket attached. I always buy the latest and greatest and sell it the second the next thing comes out.) All in all I'm super happy with the outcome. The GPU itself runs frosty and my overclocks seem to be holding after a week-ish of testing. Not to mention the thing is whisper quiet. If you have any questions, please ask! I work a lot so I may not reply right away, but I'll try. Please understand that I'm an enthusiast that loves helping Grandma with malware and kids with their custom loops... I run a simple computer repair shop in a smaller town. I don't know everything... but I try to hire the right people that fill in "knowledge gaps". I'm influenced by modern tech-tubers and love what I do... I'm not perfect but we try really hard to make people happy with their tech.

I'm spec'ing out a new computer for work for one our 3D modelers and I'm wondering on what the opinion is on using a hybrid drive vs the traditional SSD+HDD setup. For anyone that's interested; Our budget here is tight, so I'm trying to make the most bang for the buck, I've started with this build: https://pcpartpicker.com/guide/34hPxr/great-gaming-build as my base, and am modifying it from there. The goal is to try to keep it under $1,100.00 USD. Our modeler works in Maya and photoshop a lot, but his current system (I5-4570 @ 3.2GHz, 16GB DDR3, Gigabyte Z87X-D3H, GTX750Ti, 250GB SSD + 1TB HDD) is getting pretty slow, and we can't salvage any parts from it as it's being repurposed.

I am looking for an affordable touch laptop/tablet (Hybrid). My main requirement is that it must have a Physical keyboard and a stylus. I would be mainly running MS office (For presentations and stuff) and One Note(to take notes in class). My Budget is around $500. I really prefer "Detachables" as in where I can leave the keyboard at home and use just the tablet. I did consider the new Lenovo Yoga Book but the lack of a physical keyboard makes it a big no. Suggestions would be great.

Got my 1080ti a couple weeks ago but still have not installed it because I want to install the hybrid kit on it. Question is, when is evga planning to drop the cooler? They really like to take their time don't they?

A brand new mouse by Patriot called the V570. It's equipped with a Avago 9800 sensor for up to 12,000dpi. Omron switch for the 2 main buttons and customizable weights. The mouse has is designed for MMO/FPS players, which is the reason why there are tons of buttons and they're programmable. It also features RGB and cost at a MSRP of $60 bucks. https://www.techpowerup.com/232753/patriots-viper-v570-hybrid-fps-mmo-mouse-available-for-purchase

So, I learned that one can very much easily install an evga hybrid aio from the 900 series cards onto any 10 series card really. Only thing is that you won't be able to install the faceplate. The temperature improvements from stock cooling to liquid cooling are so great that I can easily over clock to 2.1ghz and only have the card run at 60c max. Threw in some images of the card inside and outside the pc to show how it looks.

Saw this on Hexus and thought it was funny and horrible on the naming... http://hexus.net/tech/news/graphics/105250-evga-geforce-gtx-1080-ti-sc2-gaming-hybrid-icx-introduced/ I mean the only thing on this shot that is not a part of the product name is the 'water cooled perfection'. Otherwise, I think that this might be trying to compete for the longest named GPU on the market... Love that there are 4 or 5 trademark logos on the graphic here for the name.