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How in the hell can this be poss? The other stick topped out at 40 on the dot?

A topic that I've seen come up that I've had to address, an understandable misinterpretation, is that higher temperatures of components mean more heat into your room. This is far enough removed from a proper understanding of thermodynamics enough for me to make a post I can reference back to as a detailed explanation of why. TLDR: The primary controlling variable for energy/heat into your room from your computer is its power consumption. More energy in = more energy out. The variable that controls this is energy in, which is compensated for by either changing fan speeds or allowing the difference in temperature of the components and your environment to change. Higher temperatures under load are simply the way a heat source compensates for an insufficient proportional increase in the other variables, like airflow or heat capacity/surface area/heat transfer coefficients, etc. What can you do to change this? Lower your power consumption. A way to mitigate its effect to the user can also be to transport that heat more effectively away from the user (shoutout to whole room watercooling, RIP). Now to show this qualitatively with some simple equations and definitions to understand: Temperature- the average random molecular kinetic energy of a substance. This is a localized approximation of kinetic energy by its nature and not indicative of kinetic energy of a whole system. A fundamentally important thing to understand is that computers are practically space heaters, where most of the electrical energy into a computer is converted to waste heat. BTU/hr being proportional to Watts (3.41 conversion) since Watts are just Joules/sec. dT (difference in temperature) can be defined as (Tsource – Tsink), being the difference in temperature between the heat source and heatsink (CPU and your room, as examples). Heat transfer cannot occur without a difference in temperature. If dT is 0, then no heat transfer is occurring between those materials. The higher the difference, the more heat transfer can occur. This is why allowing your temperatures to go up at a lower fan speed can reach an equilibrium, Tsource will keep going up until it does or it throttles back power consumption, therefore reducing the heat transfer requirement. More unit definition/clarifications: 'U,A' in the top equation being complex variables, since it’ll include the heat transfer coefficient of every layer or be an average across multiple layers, where this in some equations is defined as the ‘material constant’ since its largely dependent on material properties and are relatively constant. The simplest explanation of these variables is they’re proportional to your heat sink, like a 120mm AIO versus an NH-D15, where an NH-D15 will have a higher UA. A way of visualizing this is with a cross section of heat transfer layers of a microprocessor. Notice how we’re already at 3 layers of materials without adding thermal paste or the heat sink, which the heatsink will have multiple layers between it alone. Each of these materials will have their own U (heat transfer coefficient), where generally you’re most limited by the number of layers and the lowest heat transfer coefficient. The overall value of these heat transfer coefficients when factoring in their thickness and individual heat transfer coefficients will determine U. This is the major reason why 3D v-cache operates so hot and requires lower maximums, since the extra copper and cache layers require a proportionally lower temperature at the point of measurement to maintain a safe die temperature. 'A' (cross sectional area) is the third dimension of the heat transfer profile, being the contactable surface area to transfer heat from a heat source to a heat sink. Things like Heat Flux come into play with this value, but its outside the scope of this discussion. Now finally to the second equation… 'M' (mass flow rate) is the volumetric flow of the fluid (whether that’s water or air) that’s acting as the heat transfer medium. This would be the fluid in a CPU AIO or the fluid in the heatpipes of a tower cooler, and then again for the air that the fans move across the radiator or heatsink fins. 'C' (specific heat capacity) is practically speaking a measurement of density, where it’s the amount of energy per mass per degree a material can absorb. The higher this value, the more energy that material can absorb without changing temperature independently of its total mass. This is a material property, water having one of the highest, especially as a relatively safe heat transfer medium. A quantifiable measurement for this being that water can absorb ~4.5x more energy than aluminum of the same mass per degree change of temperature. Done with explaining the equations, now for some actual qualitative analysis. This involves assuming static quantities for certain variables to create proportions between either the one's on topic or to demonstrate a relationship between those variables. In this case, we'll look at Q, M, and Tsource: Take the equations and strip them down to a proportion between Q (heat transfer rate), dT (difference in heatsink to heatsource) and M (mass flow rate)these are the variables we can control in our computer. The rest we can assume to be relatively constant for the purposes of this discussion. Even within dT, we can assume that Tsink is relatively constant, since this would ultimately be the temperature of your room/environment. Mass flow rate is practically speaking the speed of your fans, and we’ll eliminate the variable of a watercooling pump and its speed from this to make it simpler. This leaves specifically Q (power consumption of the PC, Tsource (component temperature like CPU/GPU), and M (speed of cooling fans). While your computer is ‘idle’ in a relatively low power state, lets say 50W, this would require less Q (heat transfer rate) since there’s less heat being generated per second (Watts), therefore the Tsource (your CPU/GPU) doesn’t have to be as high to remove said heat, creating a proportionally lower dT (assuming constant fan speed). While your computer is under load, lets say 500W, the heat transfer rate will go up, requiring one of the equation’s variables to go up proportionally. This requires a change to either dT or M (mass flow rate), usually both. This results in a higher Tsource to create a higher dT and higher fan speeds to increase the mass flow rate, since its unlikely one would be able to compensate for 10x the amount of heat simply through an increase in dT (while maintaining operating limitations like 105C). Some caveats: Yes, a silicon semiconductor at a lower temperature will therefore have a lower resistance therefore being more efficient, but that’s an insignificant contribution to overall power consumption in the operating range of computers. The average power consumption, heat soak characteristics, and overall heat capacity of a computer does contribute. This is applicable to full eATX towers versus SFX systems, where a 500W draw SFX system will take far less time to heat soak than an eATX system which might have 2x the steel/aluminum and 10x the internal air volume. This will affect the time it takes for the whole system to reach equilibrium. Anyone else with knowledge of thermodynamics who would like to contribute to this discussion or if you find anything I can improve, I’ll edit the OP accordingly with citation. Feel free to ask questions and for clarifications, and I'll try as best as I can to not require a whole essay to explain. Most of the information I would need to reference would be in OP. An analogy for this using fluid dynamics is to take a tank of water with an inlet and outlet. If the flow into the tank exceeds the flow out of the tank, then the tank level will rise. However, the tank level might rise high enough for it to increase the head pressure on the outlet, therefore increasing the outlet flow, which may match the inlet flow rate once the tank reaches a certain level creating an equilibrium. Water in this analogy is equal to kinetic energy, where the inlet flow are the components generating heat, flow out being the heat transfer out via fans and the tank volume being the overall heat capacity of the system which includes the air inside, heatsinks, etc. Temperature would operate similarly to head pressure and therefore tank level. In this analogy as well, if there's no outlet, then the tank will overflow or become pressurized, just like a computer in a sealed environment will eventually shutdown because it'll overheat, regardless of how much it tries to thermal throttle with no energy out. So if there's energy going in, then there must be energy going out equal to what's going in, otherwise the kinetic energy will continue to rise. To full circle the analogy, neglecting water's surface tension, the tank would be perforated and slowly leaking water, just like how anything with a higher temperature than its surroundings would slowly leak energy to its surroundings and eventually reach equilibrium unless it has an active energy input. To flesh the analogy out more, my 'mythbusting' is that tank level = flow out of the tank; which isn't true, since its not considering flow in and volume of the tank. To put the importance of the tank's volume into perspective, a 1" diameter tube with 5" height of water creates the same head pressure as a 5 gallon drum with 5" height of water, just like how a GT1030 at 75W can operate at the same temperature as a RTX 4090 at 600W. They're both creating the same dT, but at drastically different wattages/volume.

For awhile now I've had what seems like some unusually high temps on this 3080 (MSI RTX 3080 VENTUS 3X). At first, I assumed it was restrictive airflow in my case (it was one of MSI's prebuilt console-style PCs). Just recently built a new one, and carried over the 3080 but am still having unusually high temps for the loads it's under. Main parts of system: Corsair 4000D case (default fan setup so far, one intake one exhaust) Ryzen 7700x (DeepCool AK620) MSI RTX 3080 VENTUS 3X Temps: GPU stock fan curve GPU undervolted to 0.85V and max boost of 1815MHz Ambient temp is around 23C GPU at idle (fans at 0%) is around 50C GPU load at 50-70% gets to around 70-80C (fans at 60%) Any more load and fans rocket up to 100% (unbearably loud) and temps hit 85C and i assume starts throttling I know getting some extra case fans to pull in more fresh air would help (I already have a 5-pack of Arctic P12 on the way), but I'm not sure if they'd really help enough. It feels like I'm having to turn settings down in so many games just to prevent GPU load from hitting 80-100% and dealing with the obnoxious noise. It's definitely outside of warranty period at this point, in-case starting an RMA was even an option over this. But I'm willing to try anything at this point (don't really want to drop $1000+ to get another GPU )

I am genuinely disappointed in how little progression has been made in UltraWide Display Tech in the past few years. More than 5 years ago, I bought my current Asus ROG 34" 3440x1440p 100Hz monitor for $699.99. Now days it seems the same money barely gets you the same features plus maybe HDR and an upgrade to 144 or 165Hz and honestly Im not sure if I even want to do it. Sure, my new Radeon RX 7900-XTX is easily blowing right by 100 FPS even at Ultra settings, usually delivering 130-140 FPS, but people forget that what your eyes see versus how the game responds are two completely separate things. Running 120+ FPS on a 100Hz monitor is slightly beneficial as the game can feel ever so slightly better and your actions have less input lag. And 100Hz is more than enough for your eyes anyways. On top of this - the ROG display is incredibly capable - even with games that run at 200 FPS and beyond, I see no screen tearing of any kind. This Asus ROG display is already an IPS 1ms response panel, the only downsides are that Im blowing by the maximum refresh rate with ease (and yes the display is already OC-ed, stock out of the box its a 90 Hz display), and this is a G-Sync only monitor so I can no longer use variable refresh rate tech. But I can enable V-Sync in games to limit FPS anyways and your eyes don't really need more than what I already have. I usually just enable a custom FPS lock of 120 and just enjoy a smooth experience at completely maxed-out Ultra-Everything Settings hardly ever seeing the FPS drop below that 120 limit. But I kinda want to upgrade just to better utilize the power of my new GPU and maybe for AMD FreeSync and possibly HDR compatibility and thats about it. As far as I can see, there are only two options currently available that fit the bill for a similar price - The LG UltraGear 34" 3440x1440 144Hz (160Hz OC) "AMD FreeSync 2.0" Nano-IPS 400 Nit Curved IPS Gaming Monitor - HDR NOT officially supported - $699.99 - BenQ EX3415R - 34" 3440x1440p 144Hz (MPRT) "AMD FreeSync Premium" HDR-400 Certified, Curved IPS Gaming Monitor - $799.99 Wow, so 5 years later and almost no progress for the price you pay. So should I just wait another 5 years and maybe eventually a decent option will show up for a decent price, or just go ahead and save for one of these options and just deal with the poor value? Of course I could sell the current monitor to make up for some of the price difference but I won't realistically get more than $250-$300 for it at best. I was genuinely expecting to find 34" IPS Panels at 3440x1400p 144Hz with HDR for under $500 considering its 5 years later and 16:9 1440p displays have already moved beyond 240Hz and you can get a 240Hz IPS 2560x1440p panel for like $300. By the way, I have no interest in 4K - and before you ask - its because yes, I am aware that there is basically ZERO improvement to the human eye going from 1440p to 4K unless your eyes are less than 18 inches from the screen on a standard-sized monitor under 50". Plus I enjoy UltraWide gaming and 4K UltraWide (5120x2160p) will probably be too much for the XTX if I want High refresh rate (which I do, I prefer at least 90 FPS and am completely happy at 120 FPS).

i have found a solution that actually works.i have tried everything on reddit and google and nothing worked . here is how you do it .if your one win11 and get this annoying high usage just go to task manager right click on vanguard and click on efficiency mode it dropped my usage from above 80% all the time to between 40 and 60 hope this helps

Hey, today I rebuilt my computer in a new case, I also reapplied thermal paste since the one in the CPU was dry, but after that I am getting some weird issues on both Windows and Linux, after some time of using the pc the CPU Usage goes insanely high, audio gets choppy and the pc freezes, It's not overheating as the CPU is running at around 35 to 40 degrees when the audio gets choppy I notice on windows audiodg.exe CPU usage increases drastically, it's not an issue with audiodg as it will happen with discord, edge etc too, I have no idea what could be causing this, it's my first time assembling a pc, everything is correct, the only thing that is not plugged in is a fan because I am missing a fan header on my motherboard and a 2 pin FAN panel connector (for the rgb fans that my case doesn't come with) I changed the sata ports thinking it may be an issue with the sata connector but that didn't fix the issue, the drives work normally, I checked my ram, also fine, I don't know why my cpu would be affected by a simple case swap... I don't know what to do anymore...

Anybody know why my Last BIOS time is so high even when using an SSD and how to fix it? My spec: CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 2600 GPU: MSI RX 570 Motherboard: MSI B450M PRO-VDH PLUS Ram: 16 GB SSD: Kingston 240GB Things I already tried but didn't work:

Should i RMA my 970 evo nvme ssd? Temps and ssd location: https://imgur.com/a/y5bmlDt I havent noticed the temps beeing this high ever. That said. I have ordered a cheap aliminuim nvme heatsink for it, hoping it wil help.

this process uses like 13% of my cpu at idle and I've tried every solution on google but in vain. It's rather weird how it behaves. First of all, it seems to start rising in usage once I open task manager. Second, it seems to use my dedicated gpu from time to time but very lightly (GPU 1 - Copy) Then if I launch a demanding game it will go down to 0.3% and come back up once I close it. I used Process explorer and this is causing it: dxgmms2.sys!VidMmInterface Now if I disable the Nvidia GPU, it's gone. What do?

Hey, I have recently built my own pc for the first time. It's been a week now since I'm using it and I've noticed that my Ryzen 7 5800x CPU temperatures are higher than what I'm used to. CPU: Ryzen 7 5800x MOBO: ASUS Tuf GAMING x570-plus - Latest BIOS v.3001 CPU COOLER: MasterAir MA410P CASE: PHANTEKS ECLIPSE P400S TEMPERED GLASS - 3 fans in front. 1 exhaust in the back Maybe it's normal, I don't know but I feel like that's a bit high. For example, Having chrome open, opening outlook. When the mails start loading, the temp. rises to 65 sometimes 70°C. On idle, it varies between 45-55°C. Bios settings are default. Only thing I changed is the XMP profile for my RAM speed. I've tried to re-apply the thermal paste with a slightly more amount than last time. Same results. Under load the temperature rises to 80-89°C with 50-60% utilisation while my GPU is at constant 65°C with 100% utilisation. Should I be worried or is that completely normal for this CPU?

Hello, I was recently playing DOOM 2 and I went to look at my temps out of curiosity and saw I was running at 87 Celsius! Naturally this caused me to stop playing as I wanted to observe the idle temps. The lowest I've seen my CPU hit while nothing is running is 51 degrees, which seems very high. I ran a stress test and the maximum temperature that was achieved was 90 and it never moved above that. After all this I decided to reapply the thermal paste of the CPU to see if that would help but alas the results are still the same. The CPU is question is a ryzen 5 3600 bought relatively recently and I am using the stock cooler. I have a Phanteks case which has some of the best airflow on the market right now and I've heard that the Wraith is a really good cooler. I have not overclocked so these temperatures are really concerning. I was wondering if anyone had any ideas as to why they would be so high. Thanks, Aktarius

I play all my systems on a 144Hz (1ms) monitor. When games run at 144FPS on my PC, it's incredibly nice. No delay, perfect smoothness, etc. When my PC goes down to 60FPS, it looks like 25FPS on a console; terrible! I thought my eyes were so used to 144FPS that my brain was tricking me when I played at a lower FPS, but no. I launched Rainbow Six Siege on my Xbox, and the smoothness was amazing! Not like 144FPS of course, but it was great. No chopping / tearing. V-sync = off. When I launch the exact same game on my PC, and lock it at the exact same FPS, it's choppy. I don't understand it, but it's annoying. I can't have an enjoyable gaming experience on my PC unless it's at a reasonably high FPS, but with games like RDR2 out there, I'm not always going to have that option. The games I see that feel smooth on console, but choppy on PC at 60FPS are R6 Siege, and Gears 5. Mostly all games feel this way. It seems that most games are smoother on console at 60FPS than they are on my PC. The only thing that I know is different between my console, and my PC, are the cords connecting them to my monitor. My console is HDMI, and my PC is DVI (for 144Hz compatibility). If anyone has any knowledge on why this is, please, let me know! Thank you!

Hello I recently built a new PC and I have been facing high ping in certain games since new PC was up and running. Used to get 5 ping on my local server in CSGO and Dota2, now each server has ~+30 ping, and some servers are now unplayable as my ping is now ~100 from usual 60-65. On my old system pings were fine but started facing 100%packet loss issues (maybe the patcher cable/port issue as the system was 3 year old) so I switched the patcher cable and nothing happened. I bought a TP-Link 300Mbps USB Adapter (TL-WN823N) and it had proper ping (60-65). Now my motherboard has Wifi too so I tried connecting using both wired and wireless, but I still face the ping issue. I also changed the port on my router, changed the patcher cable, nothing. Any advise? I never tweaked anything under network settings on old or new PC. Router: TP Link Archer A6 v2 firmware v1.1.5 (update to v1.1.7 pending) Old system: i3-7100+Hyper H410R Gigabyte GA-H110M-S2 with latest bios HyperX fury 8GB 2400Mhz x2 Asus Phoenix GTX 1050 Ti Antec EAG Pro 750W 80+G Samsung 860 Evo (Boot SSD) with additional Hard drives Windows 10 Pro. New system: Ryzen 7 5800x+ML360L v2 MSI MPG B550 Gaming Carbon Wifi G.Skill Trident Z RGB 8GB 3600Mhz C18 x2 Asus Phoenix GTX 1050 Ti Antec EAG Pro 750W 80+G Samsung 860 Evo (Boot SSD) with additional Hard drives Windows 10 Pro.

Hi, so I recently bought NH-D15 Chromax Black as a temporal replacement for faulty H115i Pro RGB and I expected little to no difference. I was so wrong. CPU is idling at 70C and under load it goes up to 96C. I have already tried to reaply thermal paste 2 times and it didnt help much. Is there something I can do to fix it? My PC: Case: NZXT H440 CPU: AMD 3950X Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 Chromax Black MB: AsRock X570 Taichi RAM: G.Skill TridentZ RGB 4x16GB 3200Mhz GPU: MSI Gaming GTX 1080 Ti PSU: Corsair AX860 Fans: Bequiet Silent Wings 3 (3x120mm front, 1x140mm rear) Storage: Samsung 960 Pro 512GB, Adata SX8200 500GB, 6x Seagate IronWolf 6TB

I just finished my new pc build. RTX 3070 rev2.0, Ryzen 5 5600x, EVGA 750W, and 9 Corsair AF120s. Under 100% load(loading games) the CPU reaches up to 95c with the stock AMD cooler. I've read that it's okay for that temperature under short periods but I plan on upgrading the cooler anyway once I get more money. At the highest of loads the screen turns black and it's like the computer restarted but the components inside the computer never turn off. I'm unsure if the issue is the CPU temperatures automatically restarting the computer or that the PSU is not enough for the computer. I unplugged 3 fans and also turned down the GPU settings to avoid using power. Anyone know if I should unplug more fans/optimize power usage or buy a new CPU cooler(borrow more money from my parents)? I'm definitely okay buying a new CPU cooler because I planned on it anyway. I would really like to not have to get a new PSU because I already had to buy a new one after I realized that the original ATX PSU wouldn't fit inside my O11 D MINI. Other Details - On idle the CPU sits around 35-50c, the CPU has an intake fan right above it and an exhaust on the back of the case, I've reinstalled the cooler twice(once with dot pattern and another with penta-dot pattern.) I think I installed it pretty well, I tightened the cooler to a medium tightness after I had a damage scare with highest possible tightness. THANK YOU FOR ALL HELP!

is there anything i can do to fix this? On Fresh bootup, every time GPU usage is around 20-30 even with everything closed. Please help. Thanks

Okay so I have an ASUS G752VSK-GC310T which I'm more or less very happy with, however I'm getting a migraine with the temperatures regarding this thing. Lately when I play Halo Infinite, even with everything set to low the CPU temps refuse to go below 80, and the average temp is somewhere around 90C. This laptop's motherboard is pretty much new, so I know it's not the thermal paste doing a little bit of trolling. I also have a laptop stand with a built in fan feeding into it's underside. It's being undervolted at -80.1mV (the lowest it can go without slowing down/becoming unstable). I just don't know what to do, even lingering in the main menu in risk of rain 2 with a call going on in the background will have that PROCHOT 95 on throttlestop glow red like a neon sign. Also the CPU itself is an i7-7700HQ.

Is this an alarming problem and do i get a new aio ? cpu- ryzen 5 5600x stock cooler

Hello my friends, I have an issue with my new graphic card Gigabyte RTX 3070 Eagle OC 8gb rev 1.0. The temperatures are extremely high under load and fans are working on 100% even after undervolting. GPU temp is around 86 degrees after 2 minute gpu stress test with FurMark. From what I've seen in tests it should be much lower than this. I've managed to lower TDP from around 240W to ~190W during stress test but it didn't helped at all. Without undervolting temp. is up to 90 degrees and card sounds like a vacuum even with opened side panel on my case. It is better when I cut the power limit to 95%, then it's around 75 degrees but performance is much lower. Is this normal behaviour and this Gigabyte gpu has so bad cooler ? Do you have any clues what should I change to lower the temps or just return the card to seller ? Please give me some tips, what should I do ? I appreciate all the help. Thanks a lot.

Hello guys, I need your help. During gameplay my gtx 1080ti is achieving heavy tempatures between 80-84 celsius. Which of course is making my computer super noisy and very annoying. Whats interesting is that if i remove side of my case tempature of GPU is dropping down to 70-73 celsius. It looks like my case airflow is terrible. I will post a picture how my airflow looks now and i would be really glad if you can help me what to change or if its completely normal for this kind of setup. Thank you very much! PC spec: Intel core i7 8700K ROG STRIX Z370-F GAMING 32 GB DDR4 NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1080 Ti

I just installed my new AMD Ryzen 5 3600 in my MSI Tomahawk Max motherboard with the stock cooler. During the installation, I had some trouble getting the cooler onto the processor because I didn't properly hold the backplate down while tightening the screws. This resulted in taking on and off the cooler a couple of times in order to get it right. I saw that some of the thermal paste had been spread a bit around but I didn't have any to substitute with so I had to go with what I had. I am not sure if this is the reason that I get pretty high idle temps. As of writing this, the temps are between 46 - 64 degrees Celcius and opening a program may get it to spike to 69 degrees Celcius. These seem like rather high idle temps to me but I would love the get some else's opinion about it. I am currently using the AMD Balanced settings as the windows power option. Besides that, I haven't changed anything since related to performance. It's just rather annoying to hear the CPU fan ramp up and down constantly. Any help will be massively appreciated!

I am getting high temps at idle around 50-60c. I am running everything on Stock and using AMD Wraith Prism Cooler. Can someone help me with what settings I should go with to get optimal performance and lower temps. Also any AIO suggestion My Build - AMD 3900x Gigabyte Aorus x570 Elite 16x1 3600mhz {will increase as rightnow not in stock because of COVID} Gigabyte Aorus P750W RTX 2070 Super NZXT H510 Elite Case Main Focus of my build is Premiere Pro and After Effects and some casual AAA gaming.

I have my CPU cooler's light set to go red when temps hit above 85C. I noticed it was red as I had Terraria going. I checked the CPU temps with CPUID Hardware Monitor and the package temp was in the high 90s. I've been observing the temps in different games and it's hitting 100C I've checked all the fans are still working and the air coming from the exhaust fan doesn't feel hot at all. When alt-tabbed on a game the package temp returns to ~70C, then back to 100C as soon as I tab back in. Does thermal paste ever need replacing? If so could that be the issue? What's going on here?

Two days ago, my ping in games started to fluctuate a lot, and it's never happened to me before. Ive ran the speedtest by ookla and it randomly gives me 100down 10up or 20down 2up with no changes to servers or any of that stuff. What could be causing this? (I've tried reinstalling my ethernet drivers already)