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HE400i 2020 mediocre/noob review There are gonna be some comparisons to other headphones as well. The result and points given is my experience in stuff I've tested so far and not really meant to be taken seriously as I don't have very high end stuff to compare with. These are tested on my Sound Blaster AE-9 soundcard on high gain at around 25-30% on windows so these are harder to drive headphones than others I've tested. The reason I bought these is knowing that it will my first time ever trying out a planar headphone and that got me even more intruiged and interested in this tech. Lets start off the review talking about the unboxing and first impressions. Not that it really matters when using them The moment I got my hands on the package it immedietly felt more premium than other stuff I've seen and felt. When I was opening the box cover it slowly slid up, and a moment later revealing the headphones lying in a silk type of cloth. It really felt like Hifiman cares about the whole thing even at the lower end of their planar headphones. The headphones look very pleasing even with the thick headband. Solid 10/10 here Build quality After picking them up I feel the sturdiness of the whole headphone. They seem to have metal cups if I am correct or just very good plastic containing polymers with metal and metal yolks around the cups. The part where the yolks goes into the headband - I forgot the name of them - are made of strong plastic which feel like they won't break as I've seen other DT 990 pros doing. The headband feels very sturdy and the foam inside the pleather is very stiff and feels like it won't get flattened easily. My 990 pros did that for some reason. Might be that I stretched them out too much making the surface area smaller resulting in too much weight on the headband. The pads are made of good pleather and other cloth materials which are soft and strong. Nothing to complain about here. The cable is a bit stiff at first and is pretty tangled in a curved mess but easily fixable straightening it out overnight or a couple of days. One small note is that I can hear some crinkle in the left cup when pushing it gently, I think is planar crinkle. I am not sure if it is normal so anything on that please tell me. 9/10 for the build Comfort The comfort is the next thing I feel after putting them on, literally. They feel very light for their weight but are still kind of on the heavy side compared to other headphones, it doesn't really make sense but in some way they just feel lighter than expected... but I think these get a bit annoying to wear for many hours on end without any pauses. The headband is thick and has pleather around it. The headband does not slip easily or dig into the head as I thought they would coming from the X2HRs which has a huge headband. It does sit more around the head and a bit on the sides like the DT 990 pros do which contributes to the light pressure. Clamping force is really good. Not tight or too loose. The pads are very nicely designed with their angle of the pads and not like the X2HRs which have the drivers angled. The difference in use of materials makes them more comfortable and less scratchy. I am unsure if they are memory foam but I'd assume not due to the softness of the foam. This could be a good and bad thing, memory foam usually fits better for me and has better retention over time. Although they fit very snugly with their circumaural shape around my ears which I think are small-medium in size and if my ears touch the inside wall it doesn't feel like it. I am a glasses wearer but it doesn't bother me because the pads are so soft they just go around the frames. My frames are a bit slim but shouldn't really change anything having a thicker frame. Comfort 8,5/10 Ease of interchangeability/maintenance The pads are the focus pads which are removable with a system that have 4 teeth that has to go inside pockets in a plus pattern around the cup poining outwards. It is finicky to get them back in but pulling the pads off isn't that hard. A bit scary not knowing how hard to pull before ripping something. The headband seems unreplaceable. But I don't really know for sure. 8,5/10 Sound When first testing them out I had to try a variety of songs and songs which are very energetic and fast, including hardstyle, and some electronic music. I've always heard planar headphones are very fast and that is the way I'd describe them. They hit fast and hard but not in a muddy way. I feel like they have so much more energy and more time to recover in between frequencies. It is like all sounds speed up and are undisturbed with low distortion. Especially coming from my previous daily driver, the X2HRs which are dynamic and the drivers are a bit slower because of the way dynamics work and the size of the driver. They are not extremely hard to drive but requires more power than dynamic headphones. I do have one note. I think these have a slight difference in channel balance but I think it is just very slight. I am a bit sensitive to that tho so take that with a pinch of salt. Sound signature To me the sound signature is bright and has good clarity in the highs and still retains the clarity and the detail in the mids when the bass kicks in. They sound very transparent and open and has a big stage unlike the 990 pros which are more analytical and sometimes bloaty in the upper bass to mids and the X2HR's which are darker but wider than the 990's. Low-end The low-end is a bit recessed to me but is very textured and has slam to it. Punch is fixable with EQ with a few dB's to the liking making them a bit more fun depending on what I listen to or game. 9,5/10 Mids According to frequency graphs the mids are very flat but dips down slightly around the 2k area. They are not forward in the mids and are generally pretty neutral or a bit on the colder side. 9,5/10 Treble The lower treble is more recessed than the upper treble which to me makes them very good at not being sibilant but they still sparkle in the upper treble. They are a bit airy as well. 9/10 Soundstage The HE400i's are the most open headphones I've listened to. My other headphones, DT 990 pros and the X2HR's, in some way feel more enclosed and muffled probably due to the pad size of the X2HR's and the dark signature. The 990 pros are almost semi-open for what I've heard others say. The width isn't as big as my X2HR's but the HE400i's have so much better imaging. The width is natural to me and the height of the stage is much bigger than the X2HR's. The depth of the sound is very good and is very 3d like. The X2HR's feel a bit fake in this aspect making the HE400i's very good. 10/10 for me Imaging The imaging is much better than the X2HR's but still unsure if the DT 990 pros are worse, on par or better. I can pin point stuff easily in games. 9/10 In total for sound 9,4/10 To wrap it up, I think these are the best for their value and assuming a very good beginner planar headphone. I can strongly recommend this to anyone having interests about planar headphones and has never tried any. These get a solid *9,2/10* Thanks for reading my review and happy new year everyone! I'd love to see questions or something regarding my review, I'm happy to answer all comments.
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Hello, As the summer heat waves hit pretty often now, I am starting to look for some IEMs that I could use mainly for gaming and some music (75% - 25%). The headphones that I use currently are the Sennheiser HD660s and Beyerdynamic Pro DT770 (250 ohms). In the past I had a pair of Audio-Technica AD700x, really liked their huge soundstage. What I am looking for is very good imaging and a decent soundstage. Unfortunately, my country does not have Amazon (yet), and I will not order from Drop as I am from Europe. The good news is that I have put together a pretty decent list of IEMs that I could get, but I will need your help: FiiO FD1 FiiO FH1s Fiio FH3 Meze Rai Solo FiiO FH5 iBasso IT01s Campfire IO FiiO FH5s The headphones will be paired to my AMP/DAC stack: Topping L30 + E30. Which one of the above do you think will fit my needs? I am looking forward to this discussion
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I am new to the realm of Hi-Res Lossless audio and I am encountering an interesting issue between a 2021 M1 Max MBP and a 2019 Intel MBP in regards to audio playback from Apple Music. The 2021 MBP is my personal computer while the 2019 MBP is my work computer. Firstly, some background on my computer/desk setup. Both computers connect to the a Satechi Thunderbolt 4 Dock (one at a time). The dock then connects two Dell U2720QM 4K monitors, 4K j5create webcam, an external drive that acts as a Time Machine, and finally it connects to my Klipsch R-51PM speakers via one of the Thunderbolt 4 ports on the dock. The speakers also connect to a Klipsch R-12SW subwoofer (overkill, I know). In any case, I noticed that when I connect or wake my personal 2021 MBP with M1 Max that I am greeted with a warning message saying something like "USB Accessories Disabled - drawing too much power." This only started happening after I connect my Klipsch R-51PM's. However, I noticed that when I connect my 2019 MBP that I never get such a message. On top of that, I noticed that my 2019 MBP will play supported music at 24-bit 98kHz ALAC whereas my M1 Max MBP will top out at 24-bit 48kHz ALAC and then display a suggestion saying that Hi-Res Lossless is also available. To try and mitigate the issue on my M1 Max MBP I have tried connecting the speakers directly to the computer instead of the dock and I find that I am unable to switch the Sound Output to the Klipsch speakers as the machine does not recognize the connected speakers when also connected to the Thunderbolt 4 Dock. So, considering how the M1 Max MBP supports Thunderbolt 4 and the 2019 MBP only supports Thunderbolt 3, why am I getting warnings that my USB devices are drawing too much power only on my M1 Max MBP? Does the 2019 MBP have a higher power delivery via Thunderbolt than the 2021 MBP? Is it the "sound card" within the machines that is different, etc.? More or less, I'm looking for a plausible solution to handle both machines while resolving the supposed power issues on my M1 Max MBP and to also have that machine output higher quality audio content. I'll reiterate that I am fairly new to the Hi-Res audio community so I probably will not understand any complex jargon associated with speakers and hi-res audio. On a side note, is it good practice to plug Klipsch R-51PM speakers into a surge-protected power strip? I noticed that I get some humming and what I could only describe as "humming bubbles" when the speakers are connected to such a device? Also, the constant humming does not seem to go away when connected to a regular wall outlet, so any mitigation steps would be appreciated for this situation.
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What's the best DAC/AMP combo for the sennheiser hd650's ? I'm using it indoor so I Don't need any portable thing, I like bass & I'm ready to pay less than 600$ on the combo.
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- sennheiser
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Hi users. Title is pretty self explanatory, basically I've tried three different i7's with this motherboard, which currently works with my Pentium G3220. Now, all the documentation Biostar provides, whether it be on their website, or in my manual, says this board and version supports the 4790k. I've updated the BIOS, painstakingly tried each and every BIOS version to no avail, and I've contacted Biostar themselves. They claim that the 4790k requires liquid cooling, which everyone should know is a load of crap. Plenty of people run it with stock coolers, and there's no reason it shouldn't work with my Hyper 212 Evo. No CPU with a TDP of 84W should require liquid cooling, and that doesn't explain why I don't get any video signal whatsoever. I'm concerned that Biostar may be misrepresenting their product. I'm pretty poor, and buying a new motherboard isn't in the cards (not until I upgrade to Ryzen). When it comes to troubleshooting, I think I've done everything I can. I've tried with different RAM configurations (32GB currently) tried unplugging all of my SATA drives, tried running off of motherboard video and unplugged my GPU, I've cleared CMOS, I've re-updated BIOS, and nothing is working. The PC runs fine with my worthless dual core, but I think we all know that isn't enough in 2020.
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I have a plan. I have been wanting to get a Hi-Fi setup for a seriously good time now and I found a multipurpose configuration that seems to be a good idea for me, yet i can't find anyone online that has the same configuration so I'm unsure about the functionality of it all. I am hesitant because for one, i don't know if the Amplifier will drive the headphones. Let me break it down for you guys, this is my planned setup: Source: Mac Pro 2010 (optical or USB) or PS4/PS5 or Turntable DAC: Schiit Modi Multibit Amp: Schiit Vali 2 Headphones: Bayerdynamics DT 1990 Pro For starters, I'd like to ask whether anyone knows for sure if the Schiit Vali (or Magni for that matter) can drive the DT1990's, has anyone tried this pairing? And can give their opinion on this setup? I have another question regarding gaming, this setup is thought to be a multipurpose setup (all kinds of music, video editing, gaming, movies, etc) so I'd like to ask if anyone has used the Modi DAC with PS4, does anyone know for sure if it works fine? What about lag, does a setup like this present a problem with audio lag when gaming on a console? My reasoning behind this setup is for one the price, as i think is a reasonably priced solution, but also that I've heard the top notes with the DT1990's can be too bright, so i thought the tubed amplification could help mellow it out. I also wanted to ask for recomendations for a high level but low price turntable, as I have inhereted quite a vinyl collection, and I would love to pair it up with the Vali tube amp. Any good and aesthetic recommendations?? My last question is, does the Modi multibit really present beefits vs the normal version? I know DAC quality really makes a difference yet the price difference is pretty steep, which i am willing to pay if it's worth it, so is there really a substantial difference worth the price difference?
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Hi ! I'm planning to buy the sennheiser HD650 as it'll be the start kick of my journey in "Hi-Fi" audio. but I'm confused about which DAC/Amp combo should I get ? I like bass the most, and I'm ready to pay less than 500$ on a good quality combo.
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The task is simple, new speaker cabinets will be coming soon from a friend, but sadly, the tweeters and the low frequency drivers are dead. I need to know some hi-fi speakers manufacturers. Why? So i don't buy some crappy drivers and then cry about it. Name some you trust, if you know any, or just any you know that produce good quality speakers. Thanks quys
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Hey All, Am having a hell of time trying to find information about a Sony STR-VX6 receiver that I bought earlier today from Goodwill. $20, including speakers. WOOT! Anyways, I'm not an Audiophile, nor am not looking to become one heavily. Just wanted a nice receiver from yesteryear to hook up my cassette player to; listen to FM while working; and possibly add a turntable in the future. I know there are newer equipment out there, that may sound tons better but cost tons too. I just wanted something at a fair price, good quality and sound. That's why I was pretty stoked to find this gem, and in good condition to. Aside from dust. Anywho, being pretty tech savvy. I was able to figure out the majority of its features and the various functions/operations. However, despite my vigorous google search. I was unable to find a User Manual or any info pertaining to the bits of the receiver that I don't know about, or couldn't figure out. I've included some photos, in hopes that someone can better help me out. So here are my following questions. Front What is SUBSONIC? What does it do? What is LOUDNESS? What does it do? What is MM LOAD? What does it do? Back What is that black boomstick looking thing? What does it do? What antenna can I use? Right now the previous owner attached regular speaker wire for the antenna. What is that rake looking symbol located in the antenna area mean? I'm guessing Ground?... What is PRE/POWER? What does it do? And why is there jumpers connecting them? What does the descriptions mean for the AC OUTLET? (Switched 80W MAX, Unswitched 300W MAX) Thanks again for any help/info
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I'v been planing to save up for Stax's 2170 system but I'm not sure if my DAC would bottle neck the sound quality by being considerably cheaper (Cambrige DACMagic XS). Would It be a good move to get something better or should i keep my current DAC for the Stax's?
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Greetings everyone, http://www.ebay.com/itm/PCI-E-PCI-HiFi-PC-audio-power-purification-Elfidelity-PC-HI-FI-Power-Filter-card-/302155050866?hash=item4659d82f72:g:Hn4AAOSw5cNYQS4R To all: Well that is looking like serious business. Directly from China a bunch of capacitors, for all your capacitor needs. In fact very helpful, if you do not trust the motherboard and/or PSU manufactures *today*. It surely will increase your Framerates by 50% and double the output of your soundcard^^ Ok but seriously, why does this even exist? Most half decent motherboards and PSUs have plenty capacitance of their own, and all expansion cards bring their own. Is this for LN2 OCs? But then I would not trust such a card of China for extreme OC... It often says some things about "Hi-Fi". The only good explanation to stick extra capacitors in your rig, I guess. I guess should clean out spikes of the power rails. But I still do not see how this would improve the audioquality. Some audiophile may see a difference, but then most of those have a USB DAC, making this once agian not a vaild point. Apparently even EVGA did this too: https://www.evga.com/Products/Product.aspx?pn=100-MB-PB01-BR For more insight, there is a EEVblog forum entry, go here: https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/pc-peripheral-power-filtering-cards/ Here in the description you can see all "expansions" made by Elfidelity: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Elfidelity-Sound-Sourced-PCI-E-Hifi-AK4396-DAC-2-0-Channel-Internal-Sound-Cards-/271826440331?tfrom=251959406643&tpos=unknow&ttype=price&talgo=origal It looks like it should be some sort of "entrylevel high quality things". So to all audiophiles: I am curious to know wether you think, those expansions make any sense, paired with a good quality USB DAC. Because if not, all those products are more or less useless. I would rather go high quality external DAC than go crazy on decoupling all power rails internally. Or does some of the exotic stuff, like RAM/CPU decoupeling or SATA decoupeling yield performance advantage? I'm quite sure it does not, but hey, the capacitor board looks quite nice . Nevertheless, there is at least the possibility, I could be wrong in those assumptions, so are there any tests of this hardware? Well ok, I can kinda see the point of this thing here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Elfidelity-USB-Power-Source-PC-HiFi-Internal-USB-Power-Filter-Audio-upgrade-DIY-/251894459437? It should smooth out the USB power rails, as this increases signal integrity over long distance and it eliminates the jitter for a more pure audio source. But is it worth the 68$ pricetag? Once again only a true audiophile might be able to tell the difference. Because due to inductance all decoupeling should happen as close to an IC as possible, due to the USB wire, there should be a ton of inductance, making also this product worthless once again. Who would have thought? Have a nice day *PS: Sorry for my bad English (for all Germans: My English is not the yellow from the egg... ok! I stop )
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Hello, I have a pretty nice sound system consisting of a receiver, a old Denon DRA-350, two speakers, brand Chario and my laptop. I guess some of you already understand what my problem is, right now I'm using the DAC in my laptop which is pretty shitty, so I want a external DAC. I have searched the internet for a while but can't really find anything i want. ideally it would have a USB input and RCA/tulip-outs. I went to an audio shop and there they recommended me a dac/amp combo, the Arcam rpac. I don't need a amp because i already have a receiver, and it would set me back 200 euro's. My birthday is coming up so i will probably be able to get enough money for the DAC/amp but if i only need a DAC, why would i pay more for the amp? BTW I live in The Netherlands so preferably something available in Europe. Advice is really appreciated! Quintijn
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I'm looking forward to buy a new headphones for musics. I'm really looking forward to upgrade my litsening experience, and with my budget ($120-150), There are 2 options: m50x & HD.4.40 BT. Many says The m50x has superior sound quality, and slightly better build quality. But the senheiser has good sound too, plus it has bt. If you want to bt, buy they HD 4.40 right? It's not that simple... I want a Flat sound signature, and the m50x will deliver that woth no problem. The Senheiser (according to internet rewiews), has bass boost. I listen to 60% acoustic songs, and 40% dj, pop, heavy, rock, or other genre with many bass stuff. So, i thought the bass boost on the HD 4.40 Could (maybe) disturb the audio balance. Which one should i get? The HD 4.40 has a bluetooth, but the m50x has better sound. If you have the HD 4.40BT, tell me of the bass is disturbing the balance, If it's not, I think i'm going with HD.4.40BT. But, if you have a better option for me, let me know! Thanks!
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Hey everyone, I am currently thinking about getting myself a pair of speakers for my PC and I have a budget of roughly 300£. I don't really have too much knowledge about audio components so I would really appreciate your recommendations. Later down the line I am going to change my trusted Arctis 5 headphones as well so if you have a recommendation for that as well i would very much appreciate those too.
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Amazon has Music Player, dodocool MP3 MP4 Hi-Fi Music Player with Voice Recorder on sale for 54.99 with code ESYPSW6W. https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B072XKKPLT MP3 seems to be out of date now, but,,,,,, I still love it. Without information explosion and just enjoy the music. The discount is really attractive! But the end date is not clear.
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When I got this. Which was like 2 hours ago, I didn't really get high expectations because I didn't know how much it would change. But with my dt 990 pros it made a pretty huge difference. They can be driven a lot easier and the sound sounds more full. The clarity when using SBX mode is really good compared to onboard audio. The onboard audio was fine but with this soundcard it made it even better. It also has a 3.5mm mic and XLR mic output. This soundcard is very worth the price I paid for. I can strongly recommend this if you game or listen to music. Hell I dunno maybe even music production.
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I know that there's a lot of threads about low budget hi-fi earphones brands from China (let's call em Chi-fi) and my goal to this thread is to see if there are people in this community that are interested in such brands/products and are planning to invest in them. Brands like KZ, TRN, Hifiman, Dunu, Maya etc. with KZ being one of the most popular in the western market, according to my knowledge. Disclamer: I haven't tried all of the brands but I tried some of their product and most of them specially the high-end ones deliver enormous sound stage for me. Pros: Most of them are under 50 USD, very Cheap compared to highly named brands Some units are consists of Multiple Drivers, there are even some that has 5 DRIVERS per earpiece some of them has Detachable cable so you have the Modularity Sound quality is good for most of them, depending on your taste Good for entry level Audiophiles that don't wanna invest too much money. Cons: Build Quality is average, it's still a Chinese product with low named brands They only ship from China, you'd be lucky if you know someone that imports this kinds of stuff Most of them are In-ear earphones, because it's cheaper to manufacture Reply down if you have more to add to the topic, I'd be interested to see what you guys think and if you guys already have Chi-fi products you can reply the Unit and a mini-review of it.
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Hey all I'm looking to hunt down a working Sony FH7 Mk 2 complete with CD player and Record Player and all in Silver. I would prefer if it were an Australian/NZ unit, however, I will consider ones from other countries if shipping is available at a relatively affordable price. It must have everything and be in good condition functionally and visually. Thanks all
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so ive recently gotten an LG V30 and im not a huge fan of LGs OS so ive been looking into installing Stock Android onto it. but i wondered if i do install it, will i lose the Headphone Jacks Hi-Fi audio feature?
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Hi, all I need some advice. I would really like to get into higher quality audio and am looking at some active bookshelf speakers. I have been looking at the Edifier R2000DB as my active speakers because DAC and amps are very expensive. However, I am using a laptop and would rather not use my onboard audio 3.5mm headphone jack. Would a very cheap DAC for like 20,- with my audio going from USB to optical or coaxial. Would this result in significantly better audio quality for my already active speakers? Because 20 bucks are not that much for a significant upgrade. I also looked into the Audioengine a2+'s but am not sure on what kind of sound they deliver, I would like an as rich and neutral soundstage as possible for rock music. Nothing too bass heavy. Any recommendations or suggestions are welcome. I'm willing to spend 300,-
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I'm thrilled with my newest silver (brushed aluminum) box from Schiit Audio Ltd... the Loki. If you're curious about it, these 2 links by Jason Stoddard and Robert Hunter can give you more background about the product. I’m having a blast screwing around with the knobs. For the curious, the following is my method: a. I hit the books. I borrowed a copy of Home Studio Recording For Dummies from my library. It had an entire chapter on equalizing ones' work. I made copies of Tables 14-1 (EQ Frequency Sound Characteristics) and Table 14-2 (EQ Recommendations per Instrument [15 different ones]). For newcomers like me, I'd recommend this resource for night-time reading. b. Add labels to my Loki. 1, 2, 3, 4 to match the knobs. c. I used Schiit's Loki manual to define "bass", " mid-bass", "mid-range", and "treble". d. Now the interpretation starts: I attempted to match the Loki's adjustment frequencies (20 Hz, 400 Hz, 2 kHz, and 8kHz) to tables 14-1 and 14-2. e. When I want to "add body or depth"... or "reduce muddiness"... or "cut sibilance [I think that's the hissssssss I used to hear in cassette tapes]", I use my tables and gently muck about with the appropriate knob. f. I keep my expectations in check. It's a great toy that helps me appreciate the ART of producing audio recordings.
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So my uncle is building a one storey house and asked me what sound system I would suggest. He already saw the sonos but he didn't feel quite comfortable with the price. He needs something for the tv (5.1 or at leas 3.1) and something for multiroom. So my approach would be this: Logitech Z906 (for tv) some Sonos Play 1 (for bath, citchen, bedroom, ...) a Sonos Play 5 (for when he needs more power wherever he wants) I also looked into the Bose ones but except the Airplay (which only apple devices use, which he doesn't have) there is no real improvement right? Any other recommendations on good quality multiroom systems? Also possible: Amplifier + 5 boxes (never done anything there)
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Hey guys, what's going on? I decided i need a better audio configuration on my home office, so i decided to get myself a receiver. I'm not a particularly rich man, so i excluded modern Yamahas, TEACs, Denons and others, focusing on retro 1970s and 1980s models. On my research i found a model that checks all the boxes, it's the Sansui R70. fully working, 65WRMS outputs, 8Ω, 110v , Tape Deck compatible (my dad has a working Aiwa AD-3600U Metal on a shelf, not being used) and it's very well kept despite the age, it also has a killer look that will fit well with my hardwood desk. I'm not very familiar with Sansui equipment, and some people say that the R-Series are great equipments, while others say that the R-Series is rubish and the only Sansui series worth are the AU/TU Series. So, what do you guys say? Should i get my money going on this Sansui R70?
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My trusty ol' iPod Touch 4th Gen 8gb has finally kicked the bucket, tried many different things to reset her but to no avail. The problem is that my Panasonic SC - PM500 Sound system with integrated iPod dock has pretty much no other inputs. I used to leave my iPod permanently docked in it, so that I could use Spotify on my Android phone to remotely control it. The only alternative I can think of is to buy an Apple 30 pin proprietary female to male 3.5mm jack adapter, and connect a cheapo smartphone to it. Would this work, or would I run into issues relating to the proprietary connection/ something else along the line? Anybody tried this before? I'm really not in the financial position (Oh the joys of being a mostly unemployed teenager) to upgrade to a more compatible sound system, so if somebody can confirm this or think of another solution, that would be much appreciated Thanks
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I'm looking for a hi-fi bluetooth speaker system in the range between 200$ and 500$. Anyone can point me to the right direction please?