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Found 29 results

  1. When I got this. Which was like 2 hours ago, I didn't really get high expectations because I didn't know how much it would change. But with my dt 990 pros it made a pretty huge difference. They can be driven a lot easier and the sound sounds more full. The clarity when using SBX mode is really good compared to onboard audio. The onboard audio was fine but with this soundcard it made it even better. It also has a 3.5mm mic and XLR mic output. When I tried the surround sound it was like a different world. Almost no reverb.This soundcard is very worth the price I paid for. I can strongly recommend this if you game or listen to music. Hell I dunno maybe even music production.
  2. What's the best DAC/AMP combo for the sennheiser hd650's ? I'm using it indoor so I Don't need any portable thing, I like bass & I'm ready to pay less than 600$ on the combo.
  3. Hi ! I'm planning to buy the sennheiser HD650 as it'll be the start kick of my journey in "Hi-Fi" audio. but I'm confused about which DAC/Amp combo should I get ? I like bass the most, and I'm ready to pay less than 500$ on a good quality combo.
  4. Hey everyone, I am currently thinking about getting myself a pair of speakers for my PC and I have a budget of roughly 300£. I don't really have too much knowledge about audio components so I would really appreciate your recommendations. Later down the line I am going to change my trusted Arctis 5 headphones as well so if you have a recommendation for that as well i would very much appreciate those too.
  5. I'm looking forward to buy a new headphones for musics. I'm really looking forward to upgrade my litsening experience, and with my budget ($120-150), There are 2 options: m50x & HD.4.40 BT. Many says The m50x has superior sound quality, and slightly better build quality. But the senheiser has good sound too, plus it has bt. If you want to bt, buy they HD 4.40 right? It's not that simple... I want a Flat sound signature, and the m50x will deliver that woth no problem. The Senheiser (according to internet rewiews), has bass boost. I listen to 60% acoustic songs, and 40% dj, pop, heavy, rock, or other genre with many bass stuff. So, i thought the bass boost on the HD 4.40 Could (maybe) disturb the audio balance. Which one should i get? The HD 4.40 has a bluetooth, but the m50x has better sound. If you have the HD 4.40BT, tell me of the bass is disturbing the balance, If it's not, I think i'm going with HD.4.40BT. But, if you have a better option for me, let me know! Thanks!
  6. I'v been planing to save up for Stax's 2170 system but I'm not sure if my DAC would bottle neck the sound quality by being considerably cheaper (Cambrige DACMagic XS). Would It be a good move to get something better or should i keep my current DAC for the Stax's?
  7. I have an O2 AMP/DAC that I can connect RCA cables into so I was wondering what my BEST option for a pair of desktop speakers would be. Could I buy a pair of bookshelf speakers and hook them up via RCA, or should I get a USB powered pair? What is my best option? Thanks!
  8. Hi, I got this hi-fi for free a long while ago (It's seen many parties in my student house!) and I recently started using it as the speakers for my PC. (the main hi-fi unit has RCA line in.) They sound really good most of the time, but there's noticeable interference when nothing is being played and it takes up a lot of space as the main hi-fi unit has to be nearby even though its never used. What I'm wondering is can I power the speakers with a simple desktop DAC/Amp like the Fiio Olympus E10? (using a 3.5mm to RCA splitter) The way I see it is that it would be a super cheap way to both increase the quality of the audio and let me dispose of the huge ugly hi-fi unit. I'd also spraypaint the speakers black to fit in with my setup more. The model number of the speakers is CP-HP600E, they're rated at 6 OHM impedance and 75W of power, and the maximum power they can handle is 150W. I know very little about audio so sorry if I made you cringe, thanks for any help.
  9. Hello, I have a pretty nice sound system consisting of a receiver, a old Denon DRA-350, two speakers, brand Chario and my laptop. I guess some of you already understand what my problem is, right now I'm using the DAC in my laptop which is pretty shitty, so I want a external DAC. I have searched the internet for a while but can't really find anything i want. ideally it would have a USB input and RCA/tulip-outs. I went to an audio shop and there they recommended me a dac/amp combo, the Arcam rpac. I don't need a amp because i already have a receiver, and it would set me back 200 euro's. My birthday is coming up so i will probably be able to get enough money for the DAC/amp but if i only need a DAC, why would i pay more for the amp? BTW I live in The Netherlands so preferably something available in Europe. Advice is really appreciated! Quintijn
  10. Guest

    Messing around with tone control!

    I'm thrilled with my newest silver (brushed aluminum) box from Schiit Audio Ltd... the Loki. If you're curious about it, these 2 links by Jason Stoddard and Robert Hunter can give you more background about the product. I’m having a blast screwing around with the knobs. For the curious, the following is my method: a. I hit the books. I borrowed a copy of Home Studio Recording For Dummies from my library. It had an entire chapter on equalizing ones' work. I made copies of Tables 14-1 (EQ Frequency Sound Characteristics) and Table 14-2 (EQ Recommendations per Instrument [15 different ones]). For newcomers like me, I'd recommend this resource for night-time reading. b. Add labels to my Loki. 1, 2, 3, 4 to match the knobs. c. I used Schiit's Loki manual to define "bass", " mid-bass", "mid-range", and "treble". d. Now the interpretation starts: I attempted to match the Loki's adjustment frequencies (20 Hz, 400 Hz, 2 kHz, and 8kHz) to tables 14-1 and 14-2. e. When I want to "add body or depth"... or "reduce muddiness"... or "cut sibilance [I think that's the hissssssss I used to hear in cassette tapes]", I use my tables and gently muck about with the appropriate knob. f. I keep my expectations in check. It's a great toy that helps me appreciate the ART of producing audio recordings.
  11. Amazon has Music Player, dodocool MP3 MP4 Hi-Fi Music Player with Voice Recorder on sale for 54.99 with code ESYPSW6W. https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B072XKKPLT MP3 seems to be out of date now, but,,,,,, I still love it. Without information explosion and just enjoy the music. The discount is really attractive! But the end date is not clear.
  12. Greetings everyone, http://www.ebay.com/itm/PCI-E-PCI-HiFi-PC-audio-power-purification-Elfidelity-PC-HI-FI-Power-Filter-card-/302155050866?hash=item4659d82f72:g:Hn4AAOSw5cNYQS4R To all: Well that is looking like serious business. Directly from China a bunch of capacitors, for all your capacitor needs. In fact very helpful, if you do not trust the motherboard and/or PSU manufactures *today*. It surely will increase your Framerates by 50% and double the output of your soundcard^^ Ok but seriously, why does this even exist? Most half decent motherboards and PSUs have plenty capacitance of their own, and all expansion cards bring their own. Is this for LN2 OCs? But then I would not trust such a card of China for extreme OC... It often says some things about "Hi-Fi". The only good explanation to stick extra capacitors in your rig, I guess. I guess should clean out spikes of the power rails. But I still do not see how this would improve the audioquality. Some audiophile may see a difference, but then most of those have a USB DAC, making this once agian not a vaild point. Apparently even EVGA did this too: https://www.evga.com/Products/Product.aspx?pn=100-MB-PB01-BR For more insight, there is a EEVblog forum entry, go here: https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/pc-peripheral-power-filtering-cards/ Here in the description you can see all "expansions" made by Elfidelity: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Elfidelity-Sound-Sourced-PCI-E-Hifi-AK4396-DAC-2-0-Channel-Internal-Sound-Cards-/271826440331?tfrom=251959406643&tpos=unknow&ttype=price&talgo=origal It looks like it should be some sort of "entrylevel high quality things". So to all audiophiles: I am curious to know wether you think, those expansions make any sense, paired with a good quality USB DAC. Because if not, all those products are more or less useless. I would rather go high quality external DAC than go crazy on decoupling all power rails internally. Or does some of the exotic stuff, like RAM/CPU decoupeling or SATA decoupeling yield performance advantage? I'm quite sure it does not, but hey, the capacitor board looks quite nice . Nevertheless, there is at least the possibility, I could be wrong in those assumptions, so are there any tests of this hardware? Well ok, I can kinda see the point of this thing here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Elfidelity-USB-Power-Source-PC-HiFi-Internal-USB-Power-Filter-Audio-upgrade-DIY-/251894459437? It should smooth out the USB power rails, as this increases signal integrity over long distance and it eliminates the jitter for a more pure audio source. But is it worth the 68$ pricetag? Once again only a true audiophile might be able to tell the difference. Because due to inductance all decoupeling should happen as close to an IC as possible, due to the USB wire, there should be a ton of inductance, making also this product worthless once again. Who would have thought? Have a nice day *PS: Sorry for my bad English (for all Germans: My English is not the yellow from the egg... ok! I stop )
  13. Hello guys I cannot setup my 5.1 samsung Hi-FI/blurey reader. I have DP into my monitor and an HDMI to the Hi-Fi from an asus strix 390 with an asus p9x79 Mobo on win 7 I tried to run from the Realtek but didnt detect and it was playing no sound even if in the mixer thing of windows you could actually see the sound bars go up and down. So I reed about Realtek conflicting with amd sound drives on win 7 so I disintalled realtek and the audio started working. If I go on Catalist the GPU detects 2 screens: one is my samsung monitor and the other one the samsung Hi-Fi. If you go to the far right of the screen the pointer goes away like it has another screen. The problem is that I cannot run it on 5.1 it just plays as stereo. What can I do?
  14. Alright so this is my first high end audio setup and first that is not computer speakers. Since i am starting to become an audiophile, although not quite there yet, i decided to spend a considerable amount of money on this setup and i would like to know what you guys think! 1. klipsch r-15m 2. harmon kardon avr 135 3. sewell deadbolt banana plugs 4. cable matter rca to 3.5mm 5. media bridge 14 gauge speaker wire 6. auray ip-s isolation pads Alright so let me know what you guys think. Honestly it sounds amazing, better than my dads setup, which although it very high end, sound on these r-15m is much clear and more natural (to me at least).
  15. The task is simple, new speaker cabinets will be coming soon from a friend, but sadly, the tweeters and the low frequency drivers are dead. I need to know some hi-fi speakers manufacturers. Why? So i don't buy some crappy drivers and then cry about it. Name some you trust, if you know any, or just any you know that produce good quality speakers. Thanks quys
  16. I'm looking for a hi-fi bluetooth speaker system in the range between 200$ and 500$. Anyone can point me to the right direction please?
  17. http://www.head-fi.org/t/778957 ANNOUNCING SF MEET FALL 2015 LOCATION: Massdrop headquarters 100 Bush Street STE 1000, San Francisco CA, 94104 map link DATE: Saturday Nov. 7th TIME: 10am - 4pm IT'S OFFICIAL AND 100% CONFIRMED! DON'T MISS THIS ULTRA-RARE CHANCE: UNIQUE AND AWESOME GEAR, UNIQUE FOLKS! Maximum Capacity: 60 people. This includes one main boardroom for 15-20 people, and another nearby room for 20 or so people. About parking: this is in the financial district of downtown SF, so we will need to arrange our own parking. The best lot I was able to find is SP Plus Parking System on 191 Battery St., 1 1/2 blocks from the event @ $15 for the whole Saturday. More parking options can be found here. I would encourage many of us to work together to arrange a carpool; or you can also take Bart to the Embarcadero station 4 blocks away. Food: there has been talk of free pizza provided, but this will be re-confirmed later. Setup: This is a 'local' Head-Fi meet so the atmosphere is casual, so technically you can show up anytime, however it would be helpful / appreciated if you make an effort to show up on time to set-up your gear (or even maybe 20 min. early). I would now like to ask like each of you to post a reply here to confirm if you will be coming for sure, and to list the gear that you will be bringing (if you haven't already do so), and if you will be bringing anyone. This will allow us to get a head-count and make a 'working list' of the gear that will be present. Also if any of you has an idea for an after-party or dinner feel free to arrange it here. BIG THANK YOU TO @DecentLevi FOR DOING THE LIONS SHARE OF THE SETUP ON THIS ONE. BUY THIS MAN A BEER. = THE LIST 40/60 - WE RAISED THE CAP! @dusk cans: Alpha Prime, ZMF Omni's, HD650 amps: crack + speedball with mods, little schiit stack dac: vega @DecentLevi Gustard X12 DAC via Wyrd, with Project Ember tube amp and custom tube, with HD 650 headphones @Bill-P Schiit Gungnir Multibit Modded HD 800 DIY amp @ichiboy Audio Technica AD2000 (balanced), Denon D2000, KEF M500, Cayin C5, Fiio X3 2nd Gen, EMU 0404 USB, Little Dot MK1, and a Go-Vibe V6 @JustinBieber HD800 & Valhalla 2 @Rainstar HD800 Burson Conductor virtuoso ESS 9018 @wwyssh TH900 @HideousPride @vocalstrance + 1 @Packdemon http://www.head-fi.org/t/778957/sf-meet-saturday-nov-7th-we-have-a-venue-and-date-its-really-happening/105#post_12009379 @trappedintime +1 Sony UDA-1 Oppo HA-1 creative E5 AKG K7XX AKG K812 @norepeat @recarcar @morinu Headphones: MR. Speakers Alpha Dog Philips SHP9500 Koss ksc75 Koss PortaPros DACs/amps: Centrance DACPort Slim Schiit Fulla iBasso DX90 @Hypnotic Rhythm Final Audio Design Sonorous VI, Beyerdynamic DT990 600 ohms, and maybe my Philips Fidelio X1. @rosenjazz Hifiman HE-500 with Focuspads and HE-400 with velour pads (can swap if desired) Apogee Duet 2 Garage1217 Polaris solid-state amplifier @ozzymo RWAK240, Oppo PM-3s with an Norne Audio 2.5mm @Paspasero @AtomikPi KGSSHV, Stax SR-009 plus a DAC @manywelps Headphones: Takstar Pro80 Takstar Hi2050 Brainwave HM5 (clone) Mad Dog 3.2 HE-400S (going to ZeosPantera for review atm)(Sold) ESP-950 (out to Koss for repair atm Edit: it's coming back)(Edit: replacement was completely defective) SR-009 Amps: Asgard 2 NFB-15 Koss E/90 Stax SRM-1/MK2 Pro Mjolnir KGSS (BHPSU) Amp/DACs: AudioGD NFB-15 Fiio E10 X-Fi HD USB DACs: Bifrost Uber Sabre ESS9023 USB DAC Stoner UD120 @greenkiwi LCD-XC LCD-2F Om InEarPeace LHLabs Geek Pulse X Infinity + LPS LHLabs Geek Out 1000 Other stuff I could bring (if people think that they are interesting) LittleDot MK VI LHLabs Geek Pulse Cardas EarSpeaker (IEM) Emotiva DC-1 @gzone3lement Chord Hugo DAC Luxman P-1 headphone amp Denon AH-D7000 Sennheiser HD800 @unknownguardian Kumitate Lab KL-REF (hybrid CIEM) and TRIO (universal hybrid) KM16 (diy 8 drivers from china) Questyle QP1R Wagnus Bialbero Epsilon S @coolmingli @bluesaint +1 @chuckwheat @richthorn @jcollins1991 @Fidelity King @knerian @jazzfan UpTone Audio USB REGEN iFi Audio Micro iUSB Power w/Gemini cable iFi Audio Micro iDSD Parasound Zamp v.3 HiFiMAN HE-6 (modded) Squeezebox Touch @velvetx Questyle QP1R Sennheiser HD-650 Audeze LCD 2.2 (pre-fazor) E-motiva Stealth DC-1 (possibly) @Sable Stax SRM-3/Lambda Nova Fiio X5ii @Foreverzer0 @drfindley @Zashoomin @TMoney Yggy If you are interested in attending, then please post a message on this Head-Fi thread: http://www.head-fi.org/t/778957
  18. My trusty ol' iPod Touch 4th Gen 8gb has finally kicked the bucket, tried many different things to reset her but to no avail. The problem is that my Panasonic SC - PM500 Sound system with integrated iPod dock has pretty much no other inputs. I used to leave my iPod permanently docked in it, so that I could use Spotify on my Android phone to remotely control it. The only alternative I can think of is to buy an Apple 30 pin proprietary female to male 3.5mm jack adapter, and connect a cheapo smartphone to it. Would this work, or would I run into issues relating to the proprietary connection/ something else along the line? Anybody tried this before? I'm really not in the financial position (Oh the joys of being a mostly unemployed teenager) to upgrade to a more compatible sound system, so if somebody can confirm this or think of another solution, that would be much appreciated Thanks
  19. I know that there's a lot of threads about low budget hi-fi earphones brands from China (let's call em Chi-fi) and my goal to this thread is to see if there are people in this community that are interested in such brands/products and are planning to invest in them. Brands like KZ, TRN, Hifiman, Dunu, Maya etc. with KZ being one of the most popular in the western market, according to my knowledge. Disclamer: I haven't tried all of the brands but I tried some of their product and most of them specially the high-end ones deliver enormous sound stage for me. Pros: Most of them are under 50 USD, very Cheap compared to highly named brands Some units are consists of Multiple Drivers, there are even some that has 5 DRIVERS per earpiece some of them has Detachable cable so you have the Modularity Sound quality is good for most of them, depending on your taste Good for entry level Audiophiles that don't wanna invest too much money. Cons: Build Quality is average, it's still a Chinese product with low named brands They only ship from China, you'd be lucky if you know someone that imports this kinds of stuff Most of them are In-ear earphones, because it's cheaper to manufacture Reply down if you have more to add to the topic, I'd be interested to see what you guys think and if you guys already have Chi-fi products you can reply the Unit and a mini-review of it.
  20. so ive recently gotten an LG V30 and im not a huge fan of LGs OS so ive been looking into installing Stock Android onto it. but i wondered if i do install it, will i lose the Headphone Jacks Hi-Fi audio feature?
  21. So my uncle is building a one storey house and asked me what sound system I would suggest. He already saw the sonos but he didn't feel quite comfortable with the price. He needs something for the tv (5.1 or at leas 3.1) and something for multiroom. So my approach would be this: Logitech Z906 (for tv) some Sonos Play 1 (for bath, citchen, bedroom, ...) a Sonos Play 5 (for when he needs more power wherever he wants) I also looked into the Bose ones but except the Airplay (which only apple devices use, which he doesn't have) there is no real improvement right? Any other recommendations on good quality multiroom systems? Also possible: Amplifier + 5 boxes (never done anything there)
  22. Hey guys, what's going on? I decided i need a better audio configuration on my home office, so i decided to get myself a receiver. I'm not a particularly rich man, so i excluded modern Yamahas, TEACs, Denons and others, focusing on retro 1970s and 1980s models. On my research i found a model that checks all the boxes, it's the Sansui R70. fully working, 65WRMS outputs, 8Ω, 110v , Tape Deck compatible (my dad has a working Aiwa AD-3600U Metal on a shelf, not being used) and it's very well kept despite the age, it also has a killer look that will fit well with my hardwood desk. I'm not very familiar with Sansui equipment, and some people say that the R-Series are great equipments, while others say that the R-Series is rubish and the only Sansui series worth are the AU/TU Series. So, what do you guys say? Should i get my money going on this Sansui R70?
  23. I recently acquired a pair of Sennheiser HD 600's and I figure I should invest in an AMP and/or DAC. I do have a discrete sound card already, so I am thinking the DAC may not be 100% necessary. I was thinking about getting the Schiit Magni. If I don't have to get the Modi and double my cost, I'd gladly stick with what I have instead of adding more hardware to the equation. I figure a decent option is to invest in the AMP and upgrade to external DAC later if I find that that is a necessary investment. Also, I am open to other AMP or AMP/DAC suggestions if people have experience with other products. Thoughts and advice?
  24. Hey, folks! As an audiophile and dying for a fantastic set of speakers for my computer, I was wondering if anyone out there has ever had a pair of Bowers & Wilkins MM-1 speakers and if they are truly worth the money they are asking for. Or is there something better for cheaper/around the same price?
  25. Background Back in the day, before I cared about audio, and before most people moved from speakers to those tiny apple earbuds, these were the most expensive standard dynamic-driver headphones you could buy. It was a much smaller, much saner, market that was for the very few people who actually needed headphones to record, mix, and master musical tracks. They served a very different consumer and had very different use cases than modern audiophile headphones. OK, there are some issues with calling that an image of the “big 3” EXACTLY. Technically, the much older vintage AKG K501 is the original member, the original DT880 250 Ohm came out five years before my DT990, and the Sennhesier HD580 came out first, but the sound is still very much the same for all 3 respectively, with perhaps the exception of the DT990 being a bit more “exaggerated” on the low and high ends. I thought this review might be a good idea, since many people ask about these three in one of their many versions quite often on the forums. Instead of my usual review, since there are so many already, however, I’ll try to answer some of the more pressing questions about them. So, do they really sound like that?Well, first of all, one of the many fun myths about these headphones tend to be how they sound. The Sennheiser HD600/650 is a legendary piece of flame material on the forum head-fi, so much so that it’s got its own emoticon. The image depicts one headphone user hitting an hd600 user depicted as a “dead horse” for using the “veiled” HD600 (the 650 wasn’t out yet). If you’re wondering what they’re referring to by “veiled”, the notion was the highs of the headphone were “rolled off” or quieter somehow than the rest of the headphone’s frequency response. There is some truth to this notion, but it is very exaggerated by some very poorly matched equipment. Sennheiser took a very “the engineer should hear it like it will sound to everyone else” design methodology with their headphone, and tried to make them sound like speakers. I don’t, however, buy the notion that this headphone is “slow” or something. In fact all three headphones sound quite similar, and they should, they were designed for the same purpose. The AKG K702 and its predecessors has been the victim of a lot of lot of attacks on its lack of bass response. It’s definitely the most different sounding of the three, and the easiest signature to pick out. The way you do it is listen for the extreme bass EXTENSION of this headphone and the lack of the bloom effect, that rattling you usually get from a subwoofer. What’s really exaggerated on this headphone is the high end response, which is directly in your face. AKG’s decision was to make the headphone “analytical” or easy for the user to pick out specific problems and imperfections in their tracks. In fact, it says so right on the side of the box, “Professional Use: Mixing, Mastering, Homerecording”. It’s also definitely the most detailed of the three, and generally, one of the most detailed headphones period. Also, I don’t even believe in burn-in, but this headphone definitely changed in 100 hours of use. Much more bass and a crazy high end response. The Beyers don’t get a lot of accolades in the sound category, but they don’t get a lot of knocks either. To me, it’s the most “fun” sound. The bass has a lot of bloom, and the highs are pronounced. It’s a nice effect for just general listening, and Beyer took a pretty safe approach to the overall design. Very functional and simple. Very German. The main complaints with the DT990 specifically has been about ... that S word in the high end and, strangely, an assertion they have TOO MUCH bass response (what!?!?!?). To clear this up, the high end is only exaggerated on poorly recorded tracks and when used with a poorly matched amp with these headphones. The mid range IS recessed, however, but not all that much. The DT990 was definitely designed for the American market, and I must say it's a big success, sonically. Now if they could make them look non-industrial, and still sound like that .... well, a man can dream, right? So I hear that they break?Now, here’s a real problem for a change. You’d think if you bought something that was worth this much, they’d use metal or something to make sure it doesn’t break as easily. In some ways, all three are very sturdy, especially around the earcups. The AKGs use carbon fiber which is REALLY tough, the Sennheisers and Beyers use pretty tough plastic. However, for two of them, the part that should be the sturdiest, and that takes the most abuse, the headband, is not quite tough enough. The Sennheisers use the same plastic on the headband, and continuous flexing will eventually cause it to break over time. It’s not a big deal unless you hamfist them a bunch, but frankly pro headphones should be built a bit more sturdy. The old AKG headbands (especially the K240!) were much better and some older model’s still have functioning headbands 20 years later, but the new K6 and K7 models all have a nagging design flaw in the headband. It’s actually got “two” headbands according to the engineer, who informed me when I called AKG USA (and actually got an engineer who offered to fix them if I sent them back!) that the “inner headband” breaks a lot. The “gimbal suspension system” that makes the headband auto adjust has a small piece of plastic with a slot in the center that is supposed to guide the headband in the proper direction. The very slim piece of plastic eventually breaks, and then the headband’s ridges begin to dig into your scalp when the headband doesn’t contact it at the proper angle. Properly fixing them would require special punch tools that normal people don't have. I’ve fixed mine for good the dirty way with a piece of foam and the Canadian handyman’s secret weapon, duct tape. I hope that the K712 finally addresses this problem, but they seem much like the old version, so I’m not holding my breath. The Beyers break the mold by not breaking the mold. There’s nothing special here. It’s a simple metal headband with clicking adjustment and two metal forks that connect everything together with screws. Note I said “metal”. The headband is ONE piece of METAL, the forks are both ONE piece of METAL. The only plastic piece on the headband is the clip that holds the headband to the forks. The headband cushion is a wraparound Snap-On piece on the pros and just a part of the headband on the premiums. These are standard and replaceable and can be ordered off Beyer’s site. Two screws to screw in and you’re back in business. Thanks to this, many of these headphones have been going for 15+ years. So which one is the best?Good question. I think what I should really pose is, if you could only keep one headphone, which one would you keep? Personally, I’d keep my AKG K702, as it’s pretty much the most interesting headphone sound I’ve ever heard. If I wanted a pair that would last, it would definitely be my Beyers. My Sennheisers are a pretty all around nice performer as well. Honestly, any of these three pairs are about as good as it ever got with headphones. If you can’t make up your mind though, I’ll just make like Kai from DigitalRev TV and say “Get the Nikon Beyers”. And then the HD800 came out.....
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