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  • Anthony's Apartment
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  • Toms' rants about Esports and CS:GO
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  • Jerakl's Lego Place
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  • † Tech Tips Christian Fellowship †
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  • Where I post so I don't spam my statuses
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  • Help, Want to make my first Gaming PC
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Found 14,457 results

  1. Enableing windows aero

    EDIT: solved thanks anyway guys After using the steam link windows auto detected that i was getting low fps on the desktop (from the pc and link both being on wifi) and turned off windows aero now i'm haivng trouble getting it back on. I have already done some googling and windows auto troubleshooter hasn't been able to fix it. I have also tried the regedit fix to no avail. Some pictures of what im having trouble with.. windows 7 64bit
  2. No POST EZ LED Help Please

    Having Issues with a new build, these are the specs: MSI Z170A SLI Motherboard i3-6100 8gb SK Hynix DDR4 2133 (2x4) ULT-LSP750 750w PSU When I power on the system, it will not post. The EZ Debug LED For DRAM stays on for about 3 seconds, then switches to CPU for about 1 second, then goes back to the DRAM. This cycle is never-ending, and nothing I have tried has worked. I've tried each stick in each slot, I've tried them in every possible combination of slots, I've rest the bios, I've tried a different motherboard, I've tried a different PSU. Nothing has worked. Help is greatly appreciated. Thank you.
  3. Ok so I have managed to stabalise my overclock. Can you guys look at my results and tell me if you see any room for improvement. Do you think these are sustainable voltages to run. I use my PC mostly for gaming between 6 - 12 hours in a day. BTW the reason that the cpu voltage is so high is because I got a dog of a CPU that wouldnt stabalise at 4.5ghz when running cinebench unless I was feeding it 1.38v. 1.36v would result in Blue screening.
  4. Help me! Broke for 3 months.

    Please help me! Please read it all if you post a comment to help.. Ok, so one morning at the beginning of summer I went downstairs to play on my PC, but when I got there my computer was off so, I pushed the power but nothing happened, the power button was just blinking. So I switched the power supply off, and then back on, and tried again. The computer turned on for about a second, I then heard a POP and smoke started rising from the power supply basement. I tried to get closer to see where the smoke was coming from. It smelled really funny so I then unplugged everything took it to my workbench and I plugged just the power again. It turned on for 2 seconds, and then I smelled that funny smell again. So I concluded my power supply blew or something of the sorts and pulled it out. It just so happened that day my family was going on a vacation, so I left it for 2 weeks. While on vacation because I was lazy and wanted to play my video games when I got home and not have to wait for the entire RMA process I just ordered a 30$ EVGA 500 Watt(original was 700 Watt bronze) power supply so when I got home I could just plug it in and keep playing... So I got home, I plugged it in and everything turned on and so I plugged it into my rig, but it wouldn't post to the monitor... but it did power up(all the LEDs turned on and all the fans started spinning, accept my graphics card cause it only spins when it gets hot) So I plugged in a DVI monitor(I think it's called that.) and it still did not work. So I made a post on LTT and you guys said to try it with other parts. Now I do t have any friends with a custom computer or anything so I took it to microcenter an hour away and asked what they thought, they said it was probably the motherboard so I bought a new motherboard and put it in and I tried it and again the same thing happened. So I took the motherboard back and got my money back the next day. That same trip I brought my computer with me to see what they said now... They recommended a diagnostic check from one of their engineers so I gave it to them and they took it I for 50$ and a week later I got it back and they said it was the motherboard. So I told them how I already tried that and they said it might be the CPU then so I took it home and went to summer camp for a month. When I returned I sent the motherboard and CPU for RMA later I got it back and I invited my friend over, he had built a PC a week earlier. I put everything back together and it did the same exact thing. Powers on and looks completely normal, but no post to either monitor. (Did do one thing different, it would not power off when I pushed and held the power but for well over a minute, and the reset button didn't work. Had to power off via power supply switch.) So I did more research added stuff up we t on sites and discovered my computer rig uses 490 watts and the PSU only gives 500 ~+-15% so I RMAed the original 700 Watt power supply. I just got it today and plugged everything in and the EXACT same thing happened. So now I'm well into the school year and all summer I have not had a working computer. (And I like video games and it's like the only thing I really own, besides my phone.) And the only two things I have not yet RMAed is my graphics card and my RAM. But I could just be some stupid thing like a switch or something like that. Anyways, if any of you could please help me(at least guess). That would be very helpful! Specs: Case: NZXT h440 Motherboard: MSI 970 gaming am3+ CPU: AMD FX-8350 RAM: Corsair Vengeance Pro 16gb Graphics Card: Sapphire nitro RX-480 8gb Monitors: Samsung curved 27" monitor, some HP monitor that uses DVI Power Supplies: Original: EVGA 700 Watt bronze, not currently using EVGA 500 Watt White Storage: PNY 240GBP SSD, 1TB WD HDD Most of my parts is what microcenter had in stock on black Friday and combos I could make. P.S. if you don't see your comment as being that helpful then don't post it because my other 3 posts died that way because I think people saw like 2 replies to this topic and assumed it was fixed... P.S.S. Most small things or common troubleshooting things people normally do I have tried, I even bought and waited for a debugging tool that didn't fit.
  5. Hello guys. First of all sorry if I created this topic in the wrong section of the forum. Recently I've built a new desktop PC, and both cpu and ram are running at stock frequencies. I've watched several videos on youtube on how to overclock both, but i'm still afraid of "breaking" something. I have: - Asus ROG Strix B350-F Motherboard - Ryzen 7 1700 (Stock cooler) - Corsair Vengeance LPX 3000 MHz 2x4GB - EVGA 500W Silver I updated my bios to the latest one, and it still isn't similar enough to the ones on those youtube videos. Is there anyone out there who has the same motherboard and can help me with overclocking? I dont want my cpu to run at 3.0GHz and RAM at 2133MHz. I went into bios and overclocked both cpu and ram. CPU to 4.2ghz with auto voltage and ram to 3066mhz with auto voltage and it booted. I've run cinebench and some cpu-z benchmark. It didnt crash. I still haven't downloaded any game. I lowered cpu to 4.0ghz, don't want to stress it specially with auto voltage. So it would really mean a lot to me if someone experienced, preferably with the same motherboard, could and would help me out on this one. Thank you all in advance. Best Regards, Alex
  6. Hello LTT forum, I want to get into Linux, I will have to reinstall windows soon and wanted to try 2 operating systems which my pc should handle. I would like to still have a GUI and a few luxuries that are standard for windows before diving in the deep end. Could anyone recommend a guide that I could follow or an article that gets me started? Kind regards, An ocean side tourist attraction.
  7. So I up graded to Comcast gigabit internet for 70$ a month. I own my router which is capable of 10gig speeds and I use wired cat6 cables. My computer is all custom but I don't want to list all the parts but it's overkill and has a 10gig nic. When I test my speeds with Googles built in speed I get 50 down and 5 up. On the speed test site that everybody knows (speedtest.net) I get 230 to 250 up and 10 to 12 down. Same on the Comcast speed test too. Does Comcast need to come out and install optic cable or something. I'm really upset with Comcast (even though I always am cause they are the only company in my area and they have poor business practices towards the customer and poor data tracking and over charging customers and throttling speeds regularly.) I need the upload speed and down speed for large texture files for animations and 4k raw video I edit and upload. How do I get my full speed I'm paying for and should they charge me less cause they can't deliver the speed I need.
  8. So I'm currently using a Netgear nighthawk ac1900 c7000. I need to change it because even though it's advertised as a gigabit modem and router it can't push past 250 megabits. So I ordered a xb6 from Comcast to get the full speed. But I don't want to lose my Netgear nighthawk because it has a built-in nas feature where you connect some USB storage in the back of it (I put it in advanced mode and put a powered USB hub on the back and put multiple USB hard drives in the back in raid) but if I use the new xb6 modem/router combo will I still be able to use the Netgear nighthawk. Im pretty sure I can I would just have to have a separate network for people on wifi. Or maybe hardwire the two modems together and then the new network will be able to pick up network drives on the old one. Idk please let me know what you think.
  9. I just got my new PC, and Windows won't boot, it gets to the bios screen then looks for input and the monitor turns off, all the parts are compatible, and I've tested the HDD in another rig. The specs are: Cpu: AMD Athlon x4 950 MOBO: Asus Prime B350M-A Gpu: Msi 1050ti Armor PC edition RAM: Crucial Ballistix 2133mhz 8gb HDD: Western Digital Black 1tb PSU: Corsair CX 500w Thanks.
  10. Intel Ethernet Adapter Teaming

    So super networking noob here, what's the deal with Intel's Ethernet Adapter Teaming thing? I have regular ethernet going into the only ethernet port in my PC but I also have an ethernet to USB 2.0 adapter lying around and I was wondering if I could team them up to get faster speeds, is that how it works? Anybody that can explain it would be great thanks!
  11. Creating your OWN ISP

    9/20/17 So what would the over head look like if I was to create my own ISP. I'm able to get a 400k loan and so can 3 other of my buddy's who want to help. We want to make our own because Comcast is the only thing in our area and with the title 2 FCC vote coming up and looking like it's getting shut down we want fair and open internet. We want to create internet for enthusiasts by enthusiasts that is fairly priced and always open with the customer. We have the money and a fair bit of skill (one is a web designer he's skilled in html5 css and Java script the second is a current employee of Comcast and works on setting up people's internet and wiring in houses that are in currently being built. And I am skilled in Python and visual studio and currently working on learning Java). We just want to get the community involvement in things that want an ISP to do/have. Plus getting help on where to start and hiring people to work with us as we make an internet option that everyone (other than the current head of the FCC and big ISP ) can agree is a fair choice and a no brainier. We need the community to help with ideas on where to start and what your looking for. All ideas help and support is always appreciated. Update 9/21/17: have contacted local public works asking about who owns the fiber optic cable already run in my town. I'm pretty sure it's state owned because my town was a test town for the technology years ago. Still waiting on a response.
  12. I'm planning on building new rig with full ASUS aura support. I have list of components below and i need help with fan cables and such. Motherboard: ASUS x370f rog strix. Graphics: ASUS Rog strix 1070 pc Cpu: AMD ryzen 5 1600 RAM: g skill trident z RGB Case: in win Infinity 805 Cpu cooler: Deepcool captain 240 Case/radiator fans: akasa Vegas x7 RGB What do i need to get all lights work on full Sync with ASUS aura software. Send me link to internal USB hubs or RGB fan hubs, If i need one. I Will propably have to get some extencion cords for fans. Comment on overall quality of this plan. I know I can build this beast If someone helps me with fans and fan/cable/USB hubs. Is 650w psu enough or do i need higher wattage? Here are Amazon links for all the components mentioned above: https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-Strips-BIOSTAR-LSB01/dp/B06X9QJBGF https://www.amazon.com/AMD-Processor-Wraith-Cooler-YD1600BBAEBOX/dp/B06XNRQHG4 https://www.amazon.com/ROG-Strix-X370-F-GAMING-DisplayPort/dp/B071ZHCF41 https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01HDUVJ1I/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1503325802&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=rog+strix+1070+oc&dpPl=1&dpID=5105rrCQwcL&ref=plSrch https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01HP5ML90/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1503326214&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=in+win+infinity+805&dpPl=1&dpID=41gxj5BnRyL&ref=plSrch https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01MTDEYHU/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1503326314&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=g+skill+trident+z+rgb&dpPl=1&dpID=4199ul5-SHL&ref=plSrch https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B072BXWYSV/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1503326400&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=deepcool+captain+240+ex&dpPl=1&dpID=51VpSRbEMyL&ref=plSrch http://www.akasa.com.tw/search.php?seed=AK-FN093
  13. Hi will this be worth it?

    Hi all i was looking to build a pc i have one to start with (AMD A4 6300, 8GB of ram, 500 wat psu, motherbord msi A55m-e33) and have a xfx r7850 gpu to put in and buy new processors (amd A8 6500 and cooler Hyper 212 Evo) . will hopefully be for gaming at 1080p and other normal pc stuff( homework YouTube emails) so was wondering if it is worth it to put the new parts in. thanks for the help Thomas.
  14. Deciding Between Routers, HELP!!

    Hi everyone, So, I'm trying to decide between two routers right now, I currently have a very old school N600 WNDR3400v2 (and the 5g just bricked after a power outage). So, no matter what I get, it will be a huge upgrade. I'm considering between the EA8300 Linksys Max-Stream AC2200 MU-MIMO Tri-band Wireless Router or the Google OnHub. Before you go on telling me about some third alternative that I should consider, know this: My budget is hard set at $200.00 (USD) max, we've agreed we're not going above that. We live in an 1,800 sq ft, 2 story apartment Everything (and I mean everything) is on WiFi. The access point for internet is in the living-room in an awkward area, so we've never bothered with cables and we don't plan to (so physical ports don't matter). We're constant internet users. My girlfriend and I game on PC (though not a lot of highly competitive online gaming), watch Netflix (on two TV's in different rooms using Chromecasts), constantly use wifi on our phones (Google Fi on Google phones), she often video conferences for her Masters program, I occasionally need to run statistical programming to scrape data from the internet for my PhD program, and we invite friends over from time to time who will also use the internet freely and do the same as us. I won't be setting up a guest network, I won't be setting up parental controls, and I hardly play with internet settings to be honest. Almost everything in my apartment can use 5g, except one of the two Chromecasts. My computer uses the Asus - PCE-AC68 PCI-Express x1 802.11a/b/g/n/ac Wi-Fi Adapter (it's pretty amazing). Some of the things I like about each of these devices. EA8300: Tri-Band seems like a good idea given how many 5g devices we use. I'm interested in MU-MIMO tech Linksys is known for their reliability The Smart Wifi app seems cool Is built to work seamlessly with extenders It's $179 right now (sale) https://on.google.com/hub/features/ Google OnHub: It has 16 antennas, which seems like a good idea It's gone through a ton of upgrades recently and will continue to do so in the future The range on the device is said to be amazing I'm a big fan of Google products (as I'm sure you can already tell) and the app interface seems cool Is built to work seamlessly with mesh devices It's only $99 right now (sale) https://www.linksys.com/us/p/P-EA8300/ The problem is, there are very few professional reviews for the EA8300 and people seem to either love it or hate it, but the vast vast majority of user reviews say it's amazing. And there are a ton of hot and cold reviews for the OnHub, but most of them are old and complain about problems that either no longer exist after updates or don't concern my needs (like it's single port). I'm open to third alternatives, but only so long as they sound compatible with my interests and lifestyle. I am most concerned about throughput at far distances through many walls and the ability to use multiple devices at once. Thank you all in advance for your time and consideration!
  15. Not sure if its a HDD failure or something else, so I put it here. Just upgraded my pc(gpu, cpu ram and motherboard) and my hard drive has windows 7 on it from before the upgrade. When I try to start windows normally I get a blue screen https://m.imgur.com/a/HV0xO if I try to run a system repair, it tells me to do a system restore but my mouse and keyboard do not work My mouse and keyboard work fine, they work in bios and work on my laptop. I've tried all my usb ports. USB 2 and usb 3. Motherboard is b350m gaming pro by msi I also have an ssd but that only has a few games on it. Any help is appreciated, thanks.
  16. Hey there! First time overclocking and I seem to have a few issues. So my build is as follows: Ryzen 5 1600 with default Wraith Spire cooler MSI b350 Tomahawk CoolerMaster HAF-912 with 200mm front intake, 120 mm side intake, 120 mm rear and top exhaust So I've been overclocking and tinkering with things, and I noticed that when my VCORE is set to auto, even with stock speeds, my voltage reaches 1.44. I feel thats a little excessive for auto and stock speeds? But my real issue is this: every time I raise the voltage above 1.2125 volts the CPU runs as 1550MHz. Ive tried lowering the speed, upping the speed, and even letting it be on auto. But the only way i can get the actual clock speed out of it is if my voltages are set at <1.2125. Ive found a stable overclock at 3725 MHz with temps maxing at 68C, but I really am unsure as to why my voltages are throttling my chip? Everywhere I look it says most people start their overclock at 1.35 volts, with 1.4 being near the top of the safe zone. So I'm really confused as to why my chip isn't going above 1.2125. Thanks!
  17. Fan Off kilter?

    So my graphics card which is the Asus turbo 960 4gb is having this issue where when it goes under load the fan spins so fast it gets thrown off balance and starts scraping against the plastic shell or at least that's what I'm thinking it is. I've just been letting it cool down for an hour or so by turning my system off when it gets to the point of scraping. I was just looking for some kind of input as to what to do or something.
  18. I am a gamer, but Id like to get into (casual) mining while I am at school, so, I am inbetween the Ryzen ThreadRipper 1900X or the top of the line of the Ryzen 7s, the 1800X. Which one should I get? Are there performance differences? BTW When is Ryzen II due to come out, alongside Volta, which is rumored to come out soon?
  19. Hi guys, lost the 'i' key on my Razer BlackWidow Tournament Edition, I cant find a replacement anywhere (in the UK at least?!) Does anyone know where I could get one? Cheers
  20. Pc will ONLY show something on my screen when i have a single ram inserted in the A1 slot. Specs: Ram: CMK26GX4M2B320016R Cpu: Ryzen 5 1600X Motherboard: Asus Prime B350 Plus am4 Gpu: asus dual gtx 1060 6GB Ok, so unless there is just some bios settings causing this issue, my ram and all my 3 other slots has to be broken right? Or do you HAVE to put ram in the A1 slot if u only have one? Thanks for any help EDIT: I built this pc yesterday btw
  21. So I recently bought a Samsung Ativ book 9 Laptop on Ebay. It works fine but I noticed that he laptop gets very hot. I downloaded intel extreme tuning utility to see if I could lower the voltage a bit and try to keep temps down. While doing stress tests to see if the new voltage was stable, I noticed the CPU was only runnning at .80 GHz, I opened Task Manager to confirm and tas manager was reporting .77 GHz. I would like for my computer to run at full performance and am wondering why the CPU is stuck at such a low clock. You can also see that It says "0 Active Cores" When stress testing it stays a 2, but while openeing random chrome tabs and other apps it'll alternate between 0,1, and 2. System Specs: OS-Windows 10 Home Processor- Intel Core i7-4500U @1.80GHz (2.40 GHz) RAM- 8 GB DDR3 Video- Integrated Intel 4400 HD SSD- 256 GB
  22. Alright so i made a thread about this long ago, it got help but it didnt resolve the issues ive been receiving. This has been happening for atleast 2 years since it was born and its just very frustrating, now i plan to upgrade to a better and different build this year. But who is gonna buy something broken, right? My issue is, this PC freezes up, requires full reboot, and it appears to be occurring under PUBG or Game Capture HD software load. It use to happen somewhat often before randomly, but lately its been only under PUBG or Game Capture HD software load. Both use GPU and RAM, one more then the other im sure. But i dont know what the actual culprit is. So, if you have any thoughts or fixes for this id really appreciate it, i dont have other components at this time to swap and test. (NOTE: Ive tried 4 different operating systems, its hardware related im sure) Build: Motherboard: EVGA 152-HW-E878-KR LGA 1150 Intel Z87 Classified CPU: Intel Core i7-4790K @ 4.0GHz GPU: EVGA GeForce GTX 960 SuperSC ACX 2.0+ 2GB - Havent experienced issues under stress testing other then temps getting up there when the fans are at auto default PSU: Viotek Standard ATX 140MM Fan 850W Modular - PSU never cuts out, but actually lately my headset being plugged in to charge will shut down the whole system (PSU dying?) RAM: CORSAIR Vengeance 16GB (2x8GB) 2133MHz (Serial: CMZ16GX3M2A2133C10) - Thought this originally to be the issue since it wasnt under their supported list, but thats due to not being tested vigorously SSD: Crucial M4 256GB SSD [Factory Recertified] - Cleared of Being Issue HDD: WL 3TB 64MB Cache SATA 6.0GB/s 3.5" (Serial: WOL240293221) - Cleared of Being Issue I think and know the PSU is dying, so ill most likely be replacing that as its time i think. But, when the system does freeze the build still has power, never flickered, nor went out unless i shut it down manually to reboot it.
  23. Has she gone loco?

    Hej, so i recently got a hd 7970 and i have been throwing my head at it trying to get it to work properly. About a hour ago, i got it to void with the drivers installed, run msi afterburner and saw it said R9 200 / HD 7900 series. Got a pic of it to prove to a friend that it actually worked. But it didn't show me the clocks or anything just the series... A little after the picture taken. The screen went black and the card started screaming like it was mining crypto or something on full blast cooling. After that the pc automatically rebooted and it showed me how windows was loading, but after it had loaded and was supposed to show me the login screen it went black, screamed and rebooted. And it did that for about 10 more times when i finally gave up and decided to power the pc down.
  24. I'm having some interference issues with the integrated audio on my motherboard when the signal is running through my mixer (Xenyx Q502). I bought the mixer a little while ago because I wanted to hear my guitar amp and PC at the same time and it was the cheapest way I could find to do that. However it has an issue, which is that the volume of everything coming out of it is REALLY low. Meaning I have to turn up the knobs quite a bit as well as max out the volume on my guitar amp and within Windows to be able to hear anything. This becomes a problem with my PC, because amplifying the signal from my built in DAC that much is revealing some nasty interference. I hear a little buzzing when I just move the mouse, and if I do anything GPU intensive there's much louder, consistent static. I've already tried grounding the mixer and as far as I can tell, the PC itself is the issue here. I wouldn't like to spend over about $100 to fix this. What would be the best way to go about it? I can't find another good stereo mixer for a reasonable price, so I was thinking that I'll just get an external DAC/amp to solve the interference issues. I was looking at maybe the Fiio E10k or Schiit Fulla 2, would these be good choices? Headphones I'm using are the Audio-Technica ATH-M40X's. Oh and one more thing, especially if I do go with a nice external DAC, should I be worried about the sound quality degrading when it goes through the cheap mixer? Thanks!
  25. New build. All usb ports works with my keyboard and mouse but my pc wont detect my 1 month old usb drive with w10 boot files on it. It doesnt even show up. Have also tried every USB port. Help pls
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