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  1. this is currently on sale for 500 Euro. Is there something equally good? I dont need the touch screen, I dont need the yoga flex option. I only need the lappy for surfing and youtube, and g suite in the cloud. I am very sensitive to noise levels, can this cpu be tamed with software? i think it is not underclockable undervoltable, right? so given that I dont want fan noise and I only do light surfing, is this good for me for the price? thanks for all help! 5 PRO 5675U ThinkPad L13 Yoga Gen 3 21BBCTO1WWDE3 1 € 498.96 Product Image Processor: AMD Ryzen™ 5 PRO 5675U Processor (2.30 GHz up to 4.30 GHz) Product Image Operating System: Windows 11 Home (64 Bit) Product Image Language of the Operating System: Windows 11 Home 64 – WE (EN/FR/DE/NL/IT) Product Image Microsoft Software for Productivity: None Product Image Total Memory Capacity: 16 GB DDR4-3200MHz (soldered) Product Image Hard Drive: 512 GB SSD, M.2 2242, PCIe 4.0, TLC, OPAL 2.0 Product Image Display: 13.3" WUXGA (1920 x 1200), IPS, matte, smudge-resistant, multitouch, 72% NTSC, 500 cd/m², 60 Hz, ePrivacy privacy filter
  2. I built a small PC for 4k living room gaming. The issue is that the case does not have front fans. Instead it houses the PSU. The bottom is blocked by the GPU. The CPU hits 75c while gaming and while not bad, the fans are full blast. I'm pretty sure it's not getting enough air inside the case. I have two suggestions and both are outside the box. One is to turn the top fans into intake. While the other is the reverse the rear and CPU fans to create intake from the rear. What would be the best course of action. I have dust guards for the fans because I do realize a top intake is a dust magnet. Pics added for reference. And I know a better case is the best answer but for now that's not an option.
  3. Hi, from almost a week ago, my pc started to give a heating smell, I shown it to pc store, where I got it build, he said it's normal, but now, I am also facing stuttering issues or like I am getting high fps while playing games, but still feels like low fps, (Asphalt 9, genshin impact, minecraft), also sometimes I feel like pc skipping frames even in browsing or watching video, also I got (instruction could not read at memory location) kind of errors two times, I ran hwin64, all temps are normal, still don't know what is going wrong, My specs :- Ryzen 5 5600x MSI RTX 3060 12gb MSI B550M pro vdh wifi MoBo Circle 650W 80+Bronze PSU please help, I tried to locate smell location, but not getting, I think its from VRM MOSFET, but MOSFET temps are 42 degC, which are normal I think
  4. Hi, first time to the forums after exhausting all alternative places to ask, so bear with me! Currently: Running 2x Dell SG2417DG's bought in 2019 ; 24" 1440p 144hz 8-bit color TN Panel https://www.displayspecifications.com/en/model/3c3d64a Since i WFH and GameFH, these monitors served me well running 10+ hours a day typically at 75~100% brightness, BUT it generates too much heat on the monitor itself (bottom edge specifically) and it's starting to become unbearable in the room despite addressing as much as possible. QUESTION TO THE FORUM: What are my solutions? I'm very new to understanding monitors especially in terms of energy/watts/heat and especially panel types (TN/VA/IPS/OLED) etc. Ideal monitor specs: 1) 32 inch | 4k | ~144hz | 10-bit color 2) 27 inch | 1440p/4k | ~144hz | 10-bit color 3) 24 inch | 1440p | 144hz | 10-bit color FYI it helps if they're thin from the sides too, as in Power Supply is NOT integrated into monitor since im mounting them and my desk is shallow depth due to space constraints I'm very likely going to buy a pair of them too. If you guys happen to have some good suggestions that doesnt break the bank, please let me know! lol, that means idk buying a $1500+ monitor is almost out of the question... P.S. if LTT reads this, I really think energy consumption/heat output of monitors would be a good metric to add for their reviews especially if they put things in perspective with their FLIR cameras, compare it to idk, 60hz base monitor + best selling average gaming monitor with the reviewed monitor for the video.
  5. As the title suggests i've been using my rx 6700xt for almost 2 years now, never really monitored the temps since i've got the card after the release brand new. Warranty is almos over and i was thinking about repasting it just to be sure. My current temps are around 75c after a good hour of gaming. Hotspot is usually 10 to 15c higher. This with the default fan profile. With fans on 85% the card runs cooler by around 5c. Also was thinking of adding some thermal pads under the backplate so it will actually make contact with the card and dissipate some of the heat generated. I am open to suggestions. Should i change the paste and add some pads to the backplate or it is not worth it with my current temps? Thanks in advance, Cris
  6. Hey Guys, I am using an iPad Mini 6th Gen for my helicopter training. It works good for me but especially during the summer in the pretty warm cockpit the iPad often goes into the Overheat mode. There are special aviation cases with cooling but they are really bulky and really expensive, so my question is: Is there someone out there who had similar issues with the iPad Mini or maybe someone with a FLIR cam that could show me the typical hotspots so I can try to DIY some heatsinks or something over the area to get rid of those problems? i know pretty edge topic but I believe in the community having already solved this :) Any help is much appreciated
  7. Does a pc consuming 500 watts from wall, heat a room similar to 500 watts hair dryer?
  8. A topic that I've seen come up that I've had to address, an understandable misinterpretation, is that higher temperatures of components mean more heat into your room. This is far enough removed from a proper understanding of thermodynamics enough for me to make a post I can reference back to as a detailed explanation of why. TLDR: The primary controlling variable for energy/heat into your room from your computer is its power consumption. More energy in = more energy out. The variable that controls this is energy in, which is compensated for by either changing fan speeds or allowing the difference in temperature of the components and your environment to change. Higher temperatures under load are simply the way a heat source compensates for an insufficient proportional increase in the other variables, like airflow or heat capacity/surface area/heat transfer coefficients, etc. What can you do to change this? Lower your power consumption. A way to mitigate its effect to the user can also be to transport that heat more effectively away from the user (shoutout to whole room watercooling, RIP). Now to show this qualitatively with some simple equations and definitions to understand: Temperature- the average random molecular kinetic energy of a substance. This is a localized approximation of kinetic energy by its nature and not indicative of kinetic energy of a whole system. A fundamentally important thing to understand is that computers are practically space heaters, where most of the electrical energy into a computer is converted to waste heat. BTU/hr being proportional to Watts (3.41 conversion) since Watts are just Joules/sec. dT (difference in temperature) can be defined as (Tsource – Tsink), being the difference in temperature between the heat source and heatsink (CPU and your room, as examples). Heat transfer cannot occur without a difference in temperature. If dT is 0, then no heat transfer is occurring between those materials. The higher the difference, the more heat transfer can occur. This is why allowing your temperatures to go up at a lower fan speed can reach an equilibrium, Tsource will keep going up until it does or it throttles back power consumption, therefore reducing the heat transfer requirement. More unit definition/clarifications: 'U,A' in the top equation being complex variables, since it’ll include the heat transfer coefficient of every layer or be an average across multiple layers, where this in some equations is defined as the ‘material constant’ since its largely dependent on material properties and are relatively constant. The simplest explanation of these variables is they’re proportional to your heat sink, like a 120mm AIO versus an NH-D15, where an NH-D15 will have a higher UA. A way of visualizing this is with a cross section of heat transfer layers of a microprocessor. Notice how we’re already at 3 layers of materials without adding thermal paste or the heat sink, which the heatsink will have multiple layers between it alone. Each of these materials will have their own U (heat transfer coefficient), where generally you’re most limited by the number of layers and the lowest heat transfer coefficient. The overall value of these heat transfer coefficients when factoring in their thickness and individual heat transfer coefficients will determine U. This is the major reason why 3D v-cache operates so hot and requires lower maximums, since the extra copper and cache layers require a proportionally lower temperature at the point of measurement to maintain a safe die temperature. 'A' (cross sectional area) is the third dimension of the heat transfer profile, being the contactable surface area to transfer heat from a heat source to a heat sink. Things like Heat Flux come into play with this value, but its outside the scope of this discussion. Now finally to the second equation… 'M' (mass flow rate) is the volumetric flow of the fluid (whether that’s water or air) that’s acting as the heat transfer medium. This would be the fluid in a CPU AIO or the fluid in the heatpipes of a tower cooler, and then again for the air that the fans move across the radiator or heatsink fins. 'C' (specific heat capacity) is practically speaking a measurement of density, where it’s the amount of energy per mass per degree a material can absorb. The higher this value, the more energy that material can absorb without changing temperature independently of its total mass. This is a material property, water having one of the highest, especially as a relatively safe heat transfer medium. A quantifiable measurement for this being that water can absorb ~4.5x more energy than aluminum of the same mass per degree change of temperature. Done with explaining the equations, now for some actual qualitative analysis. This involves assuming static quantities for certain variables to create proportions between either the one's on topic or to demonstrate a relationship between those variables. In this case, we'll look at Q, M, and Tsource: Take the equations and strip them down to a proportion between Q (heat transfer rate), dT (difference in heatsink to heatsource) and M (mass flow rate)these are the variables we can control in our computer. The rest we can assume to be relatively constant for the purposes of this discussion. Even within dT, we can assume that Tsink is relatively constant, since this would ultimately be the temperature of your room/environment. Mass flow rate is practically speaking the speed of your fans, and we’ll eliminate the variable of a watercooling pump and its speed from this to make it simpler. This leaves specifically Q (power consumption of the PC, Tsource (component temperature like CPU/GPU), and M (speed of cooling fans). While your computer is ‘idle’ in a relatively low power state, lets say 50W, this would require less Q (heat transfer rate) since there’s less heat being generated per second (Watts), therefore the Tsource (your CPU/GPU) doesn’t have to be as high to remove said heat, creating a proportionally lower dT (assuming constant fan speed). While your computer is under load, lets say 500W, the heat transfer rate will go up, requiring one of the equation’s variables to go up proportionally. This requires a change to either dT or M (mass flow rate), usually both. This results in a higher Tsource to create a higher dT and higher fan speeds to increase the mass flow rate, since its unlikely one would be able to compensate for 10x the amount of heat simply through an increase in dT (while maintaining operating limitations like 105C). Some caveats: Yes, a silicon semiconductor at a lower temperature will therefore have a lower resistance therefore being more efficient, but that’s an insignificant contribution to overall power consumption in the operating range of computers. The average power consumption, heat soak characteristics, and overall heat capacity of a computer does contribute. This is applicable to full eATX towers versus SFX systems, where a 500W draw SFX system will take far less time to heat soak than an eATX system which might have 2x the steel/aluminum and 10x the internal air volume. This will affect the time it takes for the whole system to reach equilibrium. Anyone else with knowledge of thermodynamics who would like to contribute to this discussion or if you find anything I can improve, I’ll edit the OP accordingly with citation. Feel free to ask questions and for clarifications, and I'll try as best as I can to not require a whole essay to explain. Most of the information I would need to reference would be in OP. An analogy for this using fluid dynamics is to take a tank of water with an inlet and outlet. If the flow into the tank exceeds the flow out of the tank, then the tank level will rise. However, the tank level might rise high enough for it to increase the head pressure on the outlet, therefore increasing the outlet flow, which may match the inlet flow rate once the tank reaches a certain level creating an equilibrium. Water in this analogy is equal to kinetic energy, where the inlet flow are the components generating heat, flow out being the heat transfer out via fans and the tank volume being the overall heat capacity of the system which includes the air inside, heatsinks, etc. Temperature would operate similarly to head pressure and therefore tank level. In this analogy as well, if there's no outlet, then the tank will overflow or become pressurized, just like a computer in a sealed environment will eventually shutdown because it'll overheat, regardless of how much it tries to thermal throttle with no energy out. So if there's energy going in, then there must be energy going out equal to what's going in, otherwise the kinetic energy will continue to rise. To full circle the analogy, neglecting water's surface tension, the tank would be perforated and slowly leaking water, just like how anything with a higher temperature than its surroundings would slowly leak energy to its surroundings and eventually reach equilibrium unless it has an active energy input. To flesh the analogy out more, my 'mythbusting' is that tank level = flow out of the tank; which isn't true, since its not considering flow in and volume of the tank. To put the importance of the tank's volume into perspective, a 1" diameter tube with 5" height of water creates the same head pressure as a 5 gallon drum with 5" height of water, just like how a GT1030 at 75W can operate at the same temperature as a RTX 4090 at 600W. They're both creating the same dT, but at drastically different wattages/volume.
  9. First of all i dont know which subforum this topic belongs to but because it is affected by my gpu 8 thought it maybe could nelonh here. Because my gpu dumps a lot of heat when under load, directly onto my cpus aio rad i though of getting an inexpensive 3d printer to construct a bracket between the gpus flowthrough area (my gpu is and can only be mounted vertically) an the cpus aio fans to basically redirect the gpu heat away left over the backplate any over the mobi directly into an extra exhaust fan( the area where the cpu nvme slot is - its unpopulated z590+ 10850k). i think the Voxelab Aquila X2 is a ok choice for a inexpensive printer. the question is which filament can i use with this printer that can withstand the gpu exhaust heat without melting! thx in advance
  10. Hey guys! Just wanted to ouch base here and get any suggestions for my issue. So I just upgraded to a ROG THOR P2 1000w PSU and a Gigabyte RTX 4090 OC, and I was just playing Cyberpunk with everything cranked to maximum. And I noticed that my case fans began to pump out an insane level of heat, and for a moment I noticed a brief burning-plastic smell. I immediately quit the game, and the heat and smell began dissipated almost immediately. But now I'm worried. I haven't yet checked the CPU or GPU temps while under load, but I'll get MSI afterburner and do so as soon as I'm done writing this initial post. Then I'll reply with an update. I don't think it's the 16 pin high power connector. I know that has been a big issue recently, but I put that in fully seated and everything. I'll double check it though.
  11. Built a new PC from scratch. The only thing I didn't purchase was a new cooler, as had an old AIO (which I later found out was bust and clogged) So I bought a cheap Corasair one while I shopped around. Cheap Corsair Air Cooler kept Idle temps below 50 and gaming temps below 80 (to be expected) So I bought Noctua Chromax Black Air Cooler and installed this yesterday. For some reason my Idling is 42 Degrees Celcius and some games are reaching the 80s. Modern Warfare 2 was giving me lag, input delay and stuttering. Whilst hitting 82 degrees c. Bannerlord was smashing 85 degrees c but no delay, input lag or any problems? Has anyone, ANY idea what I did wrong? (of course, I have re-administered Thermal paste like 10 times at this point. Reset BIOS. Re-installed the games. Checked everything out on MSI Centre, Core Temps and multiple other Softwares. My PC should technically be a beast, but it's just not performing like one Pls help. Thanks a bunch.
  12. Hi, I was wondering if anyone can help me with this, I've built my pc, after many problems over the years, a fried motherboard, a fried ssd, 2 psus failed, etc. Well the thing is that 2 weeks ago, I was working on some rendering, when my pc shut down, and after 30 seconds I heard a small explosion, and smelled like fried transistors, so i figured it out that the psu was broken. I needed to finnish the work so I took my gpu and installed it on an other pc, to my surprise it worked better than expected even better than my pc. On my pc my gpu works at 100% and at 75-80°, its very hot, so I always open my case so I can point another fan to it, on the other pc it worked at 50% and 60° more or less, and the rendering were fast enough. I use the firestorm app to limit the gpu from zotac. I ordered another psu (a bigger one) and the gpu still works at 100% and stays very hot on my pc. My pc: cpu - i9900k ram - 64 gb (4x16) ssd - 512gb gpu - zotac-gaming-geforce-rtx-4090-amp-extreme-airo psu - 1300w (850w the older one) Cooling - 4 fans + liquid cooler 2 fans Software - Twinmotion 2023.1.2 Other pc: cpu - Ryzen 7 5700g ram - 64 gb (4x16) ssd - 1tb gpu - zotac-gaming-geforce-rtx-4090-amp-extreme-airo psu - 850w Cooling - 3 fans + liquid cooler 2 fans Software - Twinmotion 2023.1.2 I know that the Ryzen is newer but it compares to the i9900k, I just wonder, how can it be that my gpu on my pc stresses that way, I dont know how to solve this, can anyone help me? btw, I use twinmotion in ultra setting in both pcs, all the settings were the same. Thanks a lot
  13. Hey, so I built my first ever gaming pc 2 weeks ago and everything is great so far loving the performance I get and everything is perfect but there is one issue my pc smells like something is burning like it's not straight up burnt but it smells like melting plastic or something like that. Ive tried to research online but everything that came up was the psu but I recently figured out it is my cpu cooler. I'm not sure if this is normal for it to smell. When the pc is under heavy workload like gaming my pc gets hot on top (where the cpu cooler is) and it smells but when my pc is idle or just not on heavy workload the smell if gone or there isn't smell. Is there any tips on how to stop the awful smell. My parents keep complaining it stinks and I want to get rid of the smell or they'll make me get rid of the pc. My pc specs Rtx 4080 13th gen intel core i9 13900k Case: cooler master mini itx case nr200p Cpu cooler: cooler master 280mm aio cpu cooler (came with the case) Psu: sff 850 watt 80 plus gold cooler matsr psu (also came with the case)
  14. Over the past weekend I noticed my 2070Super running a lot hotter than it used to. I didn't make much of it as I was playing the poorly optimised Jedi Survivor and thought things might just be because of that. I did nevertheless clean the PC this past Saturday anyway by blowing dust out and brushing out hard to reach areas with my "paint" brush. I did improve slightly but it was still pretty warm. Today, I jumped back into Destiny 2 which I pay all the time and I noticed the temps are still high and high and loud fan speeds. So I'm starting to worry a little. nothing in the setup as changed, everything is still the same. CPU doesn't seem to bat an eye. Temps went from never over 75 to anything from 80 - 85 and the machine is very loud now. Idle temps are around 32. I have no idea what it could be. I did rollback Nvidia drivers to see if that might be the thing, but it doesn't seem to be it. I am at a bit of a loss.
  15. I had gotten another set of GSKILL TridentZ Kit of 32GB (2x16)DDR4 from my RMA replacement so i thought of installing the total of 64GB in my system, but after installing all 4 sticks my PC will randomly freeze for a second or two and would randomly crash any application or game running. I have tried memory diagnostics to check whether if any RAM sticks were going bad or not but the test did not show any problem. One more thing to mention I checked my RAM temps with only 2 sticks under full load it would be around 52-56C, Idk if that is an issue or not. It would be really helpful is anyone could help me on this matter, 64GB of memory would be quite helpful for my work.
  16. My Intel i9 11900F has been hitting pretty high temps in the past month, I have cleaned the cooler (noctua nh-u9s) and reapplied the thermal paste, the temps improved slightly. I get like 38~ degrees idle and 70 degrees when gaming. any suggestions on how to improve the temps? I set my fan to maximum speed so i wouldnt damage my CPU of high temps. * I undervolted my CPU by a tiny bit and it also helped.
  17. Hi All! I'm looking for some help looking over my plan and parts list as a sanity check (because this is driving me crazy)! Background I have a second floor office that can heat up a little from the sun. I then filled this room with 2 gaming computers, 2 "servers" (old computers), 2 mini computers, 9 monitors, networking equipment, 4 humans, and a dog. This causes the room to heat up a lot. The servers and gaming PCs aren't the quietest either. I then took the time to build sit-stand desks for the family and doled out specific spaces for each person. Only after building the desks and installing everything did I realize that my spacing calculation was off and to use secondary monitors, me and my wife needed our computers moved. We don't have enough leg room to mount under the desks. Que my dreams off purchasing and setting up a server rack for everything in a separate room (Thank you Linus for the seed planted in my head)! Reality set in and the computers have to stay in the room, I can't re-purchase all of my computers as rack mountable, I can't have any of the fun new routers, network controllers, switches, internet speeds, no UPSs (for the moment), and cost is a factor (Reality bites). It's also key to note that one gaming machine is Intel and the other is AMD and I'm looking to implement the same solution for both computers for "simplicity". I'm also trying to run the gaming monitors at 1440p @144hz at 8bit depth without HDR with RGB color space (but would like 4:4:4 to reach the monitors). Problem Statement Find a way to reduce the heat generation and noise in the room, in a space conscience and financially responsible way. Financially responsible in this context meaning not buying the cheapest junk, but instead purchasing the lowest price freely available for good products from brands that will support issues. (I know, I had to throw the hardball in!) Plan Rack: Purchase a server rack, install two shelves with each shelf holding two computers, and install a shelf to hold networking equipment. Purchase/ 3D print a vent shroud to attach to the top of the rack and funnel the hot air through rigid/flexible ducting to a window insert. Install fans and panels on the front of the rack to control air entering and not exiting the rack through the front. Video: Run active display port cables to where each gaming machine was and then use an MST hub to split the signal for extended desktop. Data: Run active USB 3 to where each gaming computer was, then adapt from USB-A to USB-C, and then attach a USB dock/hub to connect [keyboard, mouse, USB headphones, microphone, flash drives, and 3.5mm speakers]. Issues Some things I've run into already include: AMD CPU is said to not be compatible with readily available Thunderbolt 3/4 add-in cards Motherboards don't have USB-C with DisplayPort alt mode USB-C native cables are multitudes more expensive Running the cables in a wife approved manner requires about 40'ish feet cables (would like extra to in sure a good reach). Parts Server Rack: https://www.newegg.com/sysracks-srf-42-6-9-g-rack-enclosure/p/2BA-004S-000B7?Item=9SIB8H8GWZ8035&quicklink=true Long Active DisplayPort Cable(s): https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1664717-REG/iogear_gdp14aoc20_8k_displayport_optical_cable.html/overview DisplayPort MST Splitter: https://www.newegg.com/p/183-00HU-00028?Item=9SIBFMPJ5K9654&Description=displayport 1.4 mst&cm_re=displayport_1.4 mst-_-9SIBFMPJ5K9654-_-Product&cm_sp=SP-_-1579026-_-0-_-2-_-9SIBFMPJ5K9654-_-displayport 1.4 mst-_-1.4|displayport-_-17 Long Active USB 3 Cable: https://www.newegg.com/black-tripp-lite-65-ft-usb-3-0/p/N82E16812329608?Item=9SIAFJ86WS5360&quicklink=true USB Dock/Hub: https://www.newegg.com/wavlink-wl-umd501-gray/p/1DN-0023-00062?Item=9SIA6PFDAV1885 USB-C to USB-A: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1642996-REG/crucial_ctusbcfusbamad_crucial_x6_and_x8.html
  18. I have a 3080ti Zotac Trinity OC card (I know I know zotac bad and all that) and I've had it for around a year in april. When playing R6S, my core temp on my gpu hits 60, but my hotspot temp is 105 which causes my fans to ramp up to max. I did move relatively recently, but I took out my gpu and took it separately in the car in my lap to avoid damage. Is it possibly zotac just cheaped out on thermal pads and paste and I just need a good ol' reapplication of both?
  19. Hello. I just got a Ryzen 5 3600, but the stock cooler seems to not work very well. I get 42-50c idle and it reaches 90 when stressed. What do you guys recommend as a good air cooler for it? No need for anything fancy. Just something that makes it 'chill' a bit lol
  20. Hello. I have installed the new components to a final build. Unfortunately, I could not see the problem coming, because I was using the whole time Silent mode. At the moment I am experiencing some unusual temperature of the CPU when I try to stress the CPU with Prime95 or OCCT applications. I ran the stress test for three minutes and I could see that CPU was at 90 degrees of Celsius or 194 Fahrenheit what I do believe is crazy. The power settings I used were balanced power mode with minimum processor state at 0% and maximum at 100%. My question is simple. What am I supposed to do? Some people tried to undervoltage the CPU and it worked, but should I actually do that with brand new CPU? Should not it work properly? I have seen some people getting the same or 1-2 degrees of Celsius less with Water Coolers and that is just crazy. According to AMD these CPUs are able to withstand 90-95 degrees, but like....it also diminishes the life expectancy of the CPU itself. I was also researching about where the whole heat thing is located and it is not in the middle, but somewhere around the corners of the CPU. My PC build: Ryzen 7 5800x GT 1030 32GB Ram DDR4 3600MHz HyperX Seasonic GX 750 Gold Fractal Design 7 Compact Dark Rock Pro 4 MSI B550 GAMING EDGE WIFI My fans: 2x140mm Arctic P14 in front of the case, 1x140MM P14 on the upper side, 1x120MM P12 at the back side. The thermal paste I am using is Condoctonaut and I have also a following picture of how the thermal paste looks like when it was installed. The cooler was installed properly, if I used more power I would break the MB for sure. Some people say that the problem are: 1. 1xCCX + I/O 2. BIOS is pushing the voltage too high 3. Stock voltage 4. Bad piece
  21. HWinfo displayed a max CPU temprature of 102,5°C! I have a Ryzen 5 3600xt and a stock cooler on top of it with the pre-applied thermal paste. My case is a be quiet pure base 500 which came with 2 pre-installed fans. Any thing I can do to lower the temperature? I dont want my cpu to die.
  22. Hello! I have been using an Inspiron 15 7559 Signature Edition since 2016 and it had been an amazing device. I repasted the thermals using Cooler Mastter's MasterGel Regular because the temps started getting a bit high recently, however it didn't seem to help. I did repaste the device using generic thermal paste before, and that brought temperatures down a fair bit. The odd thing is that I played Mafia 2 Definitive Edition on this laptop a month back (I didn't have a better system to run it on), and temps didn't exceed 70 degrees, so it's stable while gaming but hits up to 100 degrees under regular usage (YouTube on Chrome with no other background applications). Any idea what I should do? Here's some additional information: Both fans are running normally (and super loud!) The CPU is an i7 6th gen 6700HQ with integrated graphics. Dedicated GPU is a 960m. Changing the power profile results in a lot of thermal throttling. CPU load is usually under 60%. I am using the laptop without a battery since the original one got puffy and I can't find a replacement that isn't super shady. All drivers and my BIOS is updated. Any help would be much appreciated because I need to use this laptop till I can save up to upgrade to a new one. There are no Dell service centers or skilled technicians where I live (I had a technician past mine the last time and it made no difference in temps). UPDATE: For some reason a clean install of Windows fixed the problem. I'm reaching max temps of 78° C with 4K streaming + background applications and 34-37° idle. I thought that initially it might have been malware, but I didn't notice any weird resource utilization.
  23. TLDR; Graphics Card's fan stopped spinning one day, and either doesn't spin at all, or starts spinning and start up only to stop again after a short while. What could be the issue, the graphics card or the Power Supply or the Motherboard? I got a MSI GTX 1650 Aero ITX and its not like one of those cards whose fans only start spinning after a certain temperature, it always spins. and they were spinning, but recently I noticed that whenever I run a game (eg Rocket League) my temperatures was going really high(84-85C) but when I restarted the game it was fine again(70C), this happened a couple times, but one day, even after restarting the game and the PC, the temps didn't stabilise, and that's when I checked the fan and it wasn't spinning. I rebooted the PC again, removed the graphics card and plugged it in again, and it either did not spin at all, or started spinning when the PC started but stopped automatically in like 2-5 mins time. The PC was built only a month agao and all the parts are new. I haven't tinkered with the fan curves, they are the default, I haven't done any kind of overclocking, my Power Supply is Corsair CV450, which is well above the 300 watts recommendation in the graphics card box. But I am not sure if this is just the Graphics Card fan that's faulty or is it something with the Power Supply or motherboard. Spoke with the service center, and they told me that I will have to do the testing to determine which part is at fault here, but I don't have any PC or know any friends personally who have a PC. So, if anyone can say what they think the issue might be, it would help me a lot. Thanks.
  24. So last month I bought a laptop called Dell G5 SE 5505 with a Ryzen 5 4600h and a Rx5600m graphics card, (Dave2D reviewed the laptop and said the graphics card is faster than an RX2060, most reviews from reputable sources weren't has as negative as they should have been) but this laptop has had only problems since release, partly due to dell and partly due to windows, so the issues I have are faced by a significant amount of people, these issues include over heating of laptop (I know gaming laptops run hot but not this hot), bad drivers, a monstrosity called smartshift which causes the CPU to thermal throttle and GPU to power throttle and bad SSDs which get so hot that they crash the system. What does dell do? they release a bios update which doesn't help much for thermals but under-clocks the GPU so heavily that it performs like a gtx1650, when you reach out to dell support they force you to reinstall windows and install that slow shitty bios, they send an older version of AMD radeon driver so that every damn time windows updates our driver is downgraded (older version gets installed without consent) you can't turn off SMT even if you want to and guess what this laptop is now under "long term support only" that is they wont release any bios update to fix all the shit they did. The biggest problem is bad engineering, the heat sink is so poorly engineered that it doesn't dissipate heat effectively and bad thermal paste application doesn't help either. (You can verify this stuff for others too if you check the subreddit r/DELLG5SE) for the past month it hasn't been gaming but troubleshooting for my free time, when I contact dell support most of the times they ask me to the same goddamn thing again and again, Why TF should I need to turn off turbo boost in the first place!!! When I try to game right now, my GPU is always bottlenecked, not due to heat (new thermal paste helped with the GPU at least) but with power because smartshift somehow decides that that specific game needs CPU to be faster even when it is over heating so it takes power from GPU and shoves it to the CPU causing even greater thermal problems. DONT buy the Dell G5SE
  25. My Ryzen 5 3600 runs at 4.175GHz CCX0 and 4.2 GHz CCX1 at 1.224v. I use the Wraith Stealth (stock) cooler, stock thermal paste and one case fan configured as exaust ( minimal airflow but with good ventilation ). It idles at 53°C. I live in india, room temp here is 45°C. When running at full loads temp goes up to 94°C. When performing stress test ~67W PPT, temp went to 102°C. Yes 102 degrees. I triple checked the temps using Ryzen Master, HW monitor, and gigabyte software, each running at three different tests. Qusetion 1: Isn't the CPU supposed to throttle / Shut down at such high temperatures? Question 2 :For an average user will the CPU degrade? I expect it to work for only 3 years.
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