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Hi there! I have a Vizio 70" 4k which supports both, HDR10 and Dolby Vision. After testing both HDR10 (through Windows 10) and Dolby Vision (Through the TV App), I find that Dolby Vision on Netflix looks 10times better. Colours are not washed out on Dolby Vision like they are in HDR10 Dolby Vision is also much brighter than HDR10. I have my PC hooked up to a Dolby Atmos (not to confuse with Vision) receiver which I use to watch Netflix and other movies through my computer. I don't have an easy way to hook up my TV to the receiver unless I get optical (which only supports 7.1 and not bitstream). Anyway... Is there anyway to get Dolby Vision working on Windows 10 through the Netflix app? I pay for the top tier so UHD works for me. I've tried downloading the Dolby Vision app which only gives me a slider which supposedly turns Dolby Vision on. And that kind of works, when it's switched to on, the Netflix app shows "Dolby Vision + Dolby Atmos", but my TV is only running in HDR10 and when I try to load up any movie/tv show it just crashes the app until I either turn off HDR10 (which also turns off Dolby Vision) or just turn off Dolby Vision through their Dolby Vision app. Anyone have any success with Dolby Vision through their PC?

So i have a Samsung LC34G55TWWPXEN 165hz va monitor with a 2500:1 contrast ratio HDR10 support and 250nits of peak brightness. Is enabling HDR worth it?

Hi All, TL;DR Do either the MKV container or MP4 container support 4K AV1 content with HDR10? I've been having issues getting it to work. More Details: Recently I've been backing up my own and my father's Blu Ray collections which consist of both regular Blu Rays and 4K/HDR Blu Rays. I haven't had any trouble with the regular Blu Rays yet, but lately I've noticed some strange issues with the 4K HDR ones. For some context, I recently got an AMD RX 7800XT which has support for both AV1 decoding and encoding. I decided I should try to compress the 80GB 4K Blu Rays using AV1 because why not! The movie I used as a test subject was my Dune 4K Blu Ray, which contained both Dolby Vision metadata and HDR10 metadata according to dovi_tools The 4K Blu Rays are encoded using HEVC/H265 which my graphics card should support for decoding, and starting with the 1.7.x builds of Handbrake, they also support AMF AV1 encoding so I gave that a try. I found out that Handbrake doesn't support AMF decoding at all, so I was limited to around 40fps by the CPU decoding. This wasn't that big of a problem personally, but still kinda irritating. So I used the FFMPEG command line executable since they support AMF decoding through both the existing DirectX 11 Video Acceleration API and the new Vulkan Video API. This did technically work, and I was now able to transcode at closer to 80fps! Although when I went back to play the 4K AV1 MP4s, VLC wasn't tone mapping the HDR properly and everything was washed out. Strange. I checked that the original media was tone mapped properly by VLC, which it was (not desaturated at least). I did a bit of research and found out that some people were reporting that the MP4 container doesn't support all of the metadata needed for HDR (which I eventually proved false... Sort of) so I retired the transcoding but now into an MKV file. Same problem, although the HDR10 metadata was being detected by VLC, just without tone mapping for some reason. So the AV1 MP4 didn't have the proper metadata and wasn't getting tone mapped, and the MKV had the correct metadata but still wasn't being tone mapped. I re-tried the same steps, but instead of AV1, I used HEVC so basically I was just compressing the original by reducing the bitrate. That time, both as an MP4 and MKV, the HDR10 metadata and tone mapping worked properly in VLC. I was able to use dovi_tools again to verify that HDR10 metadata was present in at least the AV1 MKV as well as the HEVC MKV and MP4, so I'm beginning to think it might be a problem with VLC. I tried using Handbrake anyway to create the 4K AV1 files instead of just FFMPEG and confirmed the same exact behavior; metadata was present for both codecs in and MKV container, but VLC didn't tonemap the AV1 video properly. I made sure VLC was updated, same with FFMPEG and Handbrake. Any insights would be welcome

Budget (including currency): $USD 1,400 to start Country: US Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Web Browsing, Netflix, Cyberlink UHD Bluray, 4k rendering with Adobe or Vegas products. Other details 10th Gen i7 CPU A motherboard that will later accept an 11th Gen CPU, https://rog.asus.com/motherboards/rog-strix/rog-strix-z490-f-gaming-model/spec Modest GPU (for NVEC/HEVEC) - do I need this with a Comet Lake iGPU? 16G to 32G of RAM Full ATX Case & 600W Bronze level PS. I'm driving an LG 27UL500 HDR10 capable monitor that needs better equipment. Biggest challenge: Intel HDMI 2.1 required on SGX-supporting motherboard for Ultra Bluray Playback. Ignoring the VR requirements https://www.cyberlink.com/products/powerdvd-ultra/spec_en_US.html?r=1 I figure this will become my next file server in 4-5 years from now. I am used to buying laptops and changing CPUs or memory at the most, so please don't assume that I know what I'm doing here. Re: SOLUTION, see also my reply on the lack of 11gen support in the PRO4 and SGX security problems.

Which one should I go for a sAMOLED screen/display without HDR or IPS LCD screen/display with HDR 10? As someone who enjoys watching anime, I like screen contrast and vibrant colours for which AMOLED is the best option at least for now. Then there may not be any reason for posting this question right? Well, but I have some doubts. Will having HDR10 mean that the IPS will perform close to the sAMOLED? And are sAMOLED and AMOLED same? Should I keep HDR10 as the main focus over the actual display/screen technology.

Hello guys! I hope you are all having a great day. I am in a search for a new TV that would be used for movies and for next gen gaming in the foreseeable future. I don't want to blow my wallet up with an OLED as you imagined from the budget. I think that the HDMI 2.1 is hard to find in this price range, in addition of a good panel with great colors. Have you got any options about me? I live in Greece. Thank you in advance!

I've been watching LTT for awhile now and I must say that the quality of the videos are almost unmatched by any other creator. It got me thinking though. Why don't you guys upload HDR Videos? Most phones/Televisions support It, along with LMG having the resources to do so. Will we possibly see a branch out in the future?

Hi, We recently purchased a new Hisense 65U7G (4K HDR10+, Android tv ) to replace a 8 y.o. 1080p 60" tv. We do see some nice upgrade in the picture quality but would like to use the TV to its capacity. I'm running a Plex server over WiFi from my computer and it went fine for my old tv with a Roku stick. I tried to stream some 4k HDR10 content but the TV can't seem to cache content faster than we can watch. I understand that the bit rate is much higher in this case. What would you guys recommend? - External drive in the TV USB - Encoding the movie while keeping the best quality as possible - Nvidia shield - Anything else? I sadly cannot run a lan cable from the pc to the router. Thanks!

Which one do you think is better (120 euro difference)?

The Xbox Series X and PS5 have ways to calibrate HDR to your display, but in Windows, there's no such calibration, only a brightness slider to ensure SDR content displays at the same brightness as HDR content. I'm wondering if there's a hidden registry setting somewhere or if it's game-dependent? I tried HDR on my LG C1 OLED and on my HDR600 Certified monitor and noticed whites being blown out on my monitor and blacks crushed on the OLED in HDR video. Unlike my SDR monitors, my HDR monitor does show more bright white detail in HDR mode, but half of the detail is blown out compared to the same HDR content played on an SDR display (without tone mapping). I've heard LG crushes blacks, but I played SDR and HDR of the same video side-by-side; only the HDR one had crushed blacks. I'm wondering if there's some secret calibration menu in Windows so I can tell it how bright or dark my display is for HDR. My guess, Windows picks up this info from EDID, but I don't think it works correctly or some whites wouldn't be blown out on my monitor.

I recently bought an LG 38GN950-B monitor (38", 3840x1600, HDR600). Linus did a review of a very similar model 2 years ago. In the reviews of this monitor, the brightness was in the 700nits with HDR. This made me wanna see how Windows 10 handled HDR for it. I'm having trouble understanding how HDR works. I thought it was just 10-bit color in Windows; not much else, but it looks like HDR can activate even if you're at 8-bit color: - My monitor can do 160Hz at 8-bit color. - My monitor can do 120Hz at 10-bit color. Both modes work with HDR enabled. I took pictures with my phone, and the only time the colors were blown out was when I disabled HDR. I used a non-HDR monitor to test. I took 3 images with my phone from a random HDR (bt2020) video on YouTube using Edge (Chrome displays all videos in bt709): SDR@8-bit HDR@8-bit HDR@10-bit I used my phone to take pictures because the camera automatically adjusts exposure, and you can see the difference between the two monitors without needing an HDR display. SDR@8-bit The colors of the top monitor got messed up in this photo, but when I clicked "Play", they got fixed (not pictured). HDR@8-bit HDR@10-bit

Hello. I'm a professional motion graphics designer and in my workflow I use a 2-display setup; but I also enjoy gaming, therefore my intent is to own two models that would cover each use case. I have a 1440p 144Hz gaming display (LG UltraGear GN800-B), to be used as a secondary display too, and I need a main 4K display with decent colours to be used exclusively for work and content creation. These are the features I need: 4K Resolution 99-100% sRGB color reproduction HDR 10 (or anything beyond) support The thing is that in an extremely unlucky streak, I have bought 4 displays from amazon in the last 7 months, all of which were broken in a way; specifically: BenQ PD2700U 01, sent back because of inputs not working and other defects. BenQ PD2700U 02 (replacement for the previous display), sent back because of a non working backlight (flickered uncontrollably) Asked for a refund LG 27UL850, sent back because of the HDR mode non working (despite any setting possible there was an intense neon magenta tint to whites. Everything was bright pink on macOS, Windows 10 and Apple TV 4K) Asked for a refund BenQ PD2700U 03, (third time is the charm right?), send back immediately because of horrible image retention issues and a loud electrical buzzing from the uniit Asked for a refund So, thankfully now I have all my money back, but I still need a 4K display for work (within the 600$ budget) but I don't know what to do exactly. I'm very disappointed with my purchase experience, especially BenQ which I suspect tends to ship used or malfunctioning displays as new, but also LG. Please consider that I never had similar problems with anything else I have gotten from amazon, and I usually dislike sending stuff back. I am kinda terrified to purchase a 5th display that would be broken, so I was wondering if you knew of other brands that take care of quality control a bit more seriously... I identified 4 displays I'm interested in and I'd like to tell me which one you'd suggest me to get, especially if any of these brands are known for decent quality control (at least more than BenQ that is)... DELL S3221QS https://www.displayspecifications.com/en/model/795c2136 ASUS TUF GAMING VG289Q1A https://www.displayspecifications.com/en/model/b31622e1 Acer Nitro XV280Kb https://www.displayspecifications.com/en/model/7d502176 Asus ProArt PA279CV https://www.displayspecifications.com/en/model/6b052206 (This one's a bit more expensive but I could get it if extra worth it) I'm mostly interested in knowing if any of these companies have a better track record in quality control, as they all are pretty similar specs wise. Thank you so much!

https://youtu.be/hAszTBHEqFQ I have no affiliation with this guy whatsoever. But his videos are fucking epic and have wayy too few views. My man deserves more. Also, this explanation of hdr is exquisite and very well researched

Hello Mates, I am looking for some recommendations from you for my next monitor. I am setting up some requirements so it will be easier for you to recommend. Usage: 1. Gaming mostly AAA RPG, FPS, RTS, Sports (FIFA), Racing and very less MOBA 2. Play from my PS4 Pro 3. Watching movies, web series 4. I sit close to the screen, and because of distance and space issues, I need a 24inch or 27inch monitor Present/Future capabilities: 1. I have a GTX 1060 6GB, I know its not enough for 2K gaming for the latest AAA games, but its acceptable with moderate settings based on some youtube reviews. 2. Also my target GPU GTX 3060 ti is now beyond acceptable price range, but some point of time it might be possible to buy one. Then 2K gaming would be easier 3. May be a PS5 upgrade sooner if the GPU market stays like this. Feature Requirements: 1. Either 24inch 1080p or 27inch 1440p (but not 27inch FHD) (16:9 not 21:9) Irrespective of screen size the below features are required: 2. VA or IPS (or OLED if possible in budget), not TN panel ( I dont like the strong Back Light Bleed or the IPS Glow, it should be well contained) 3. 1ms response (low GtG and MPRT values) 4. HDR required and 10bit color 5. High rated sRGB and DCI-P3 at 90% or higher for better HDR experience 6. 2 HDMI (2.0) ports and at least 1 DP ver 1.2 7. Variable Refresh Rate upto 144Hz (min 120Hz) 8. G-sync might not be possible at the price point, but Adaptive-sync or Freesync is acceptable as those are now compatible with GTX 10-series and above. 9. VESA wall mount Not Important but nice to have: 10. USB ports, 11. Curved screen 12. Might never use but won't complain if there are speakers. Budget: 1. For the 24inch FHD it is $300 or approx 20000 Indian Rupees 2. For the 27inch QHD it is max $400 or approx 28000 Indian Rupees Thanks in advance

Hi everyone, So I'm looking for something very specific and after many many hours of searching and buying a wrong HDMI switch I feel the need to ask you for help. For my current living room setup I want to use my TV to it's full potential. I'm quite a tech nerd and enjoy my tech gadgets and have many of them. Here comes the problem, I have too many things I want to more or less regularly use and hate having to unplug HDMIs at the back of my TV. That's why a HDMI switch is a perfect solution. I also like my setup to be clean looking and because of liking an undisturbed movie watching experience i have all my LED or otherwise light emitting things (like ethernet switch, power plugs, etc) put behind the TV furniture. So because of all this I want to put the HDMI switch behind the TV and access it via a remote. To do so it needs to have an IR extension or at least the IR extension port so that I can buy the extension for it. TV: Sony KD-65XF9005 (specs) Now for what I need the HDMI switch to do. This is meant as a minimum requirement and everything that is better is very well appreciated and I will happily take it. 3 HDMI 2.0 ports input, 1 HDMI 2.0 port output 4k 60hz with 4:4:4 chroma subsampling and 10 bit color Dolby Vision and HDR10 support HDCP 2.2 compatibility (input and output) IR extension port (IR extension cable doesn't have to be included) IR remote So the HDMI switch needs to do all that at the same time. So as an example, I don't want the output to be either 4k60hz 4:2:2 or 4k30hz 4:4:4, i really would like to have full 4k60hz 4:4:4. I have found many switches that offer some of the functionality but none of them seem to combine all of it. As mentioned before, the switch may very well work better and have a better spec sheet like 8k. As long as I am able to find something that works for me, I'm very glad to buy it or save up for it. Thank you very much for your help. I'm looking forward to all answers.

Hello everyone. I recently bought a BENQPD2700U 4K HDR10 display, specifically the HDMI-DisplayPort variety (There's also a more expensive USB-C model), with the intent of using it on my brand new Mac Mini M1 16GB and my gaming PC (GTX 1070). Upon starting to use the display, I started noticing some anomalies with the HDR, both on Windows 10 (latest build) and macOS Big Sur 11.1. The macOS 11.1 Situation: The display works absolutely flawlessly with the HDR disabled, but on macOS I get very greyed-out colours in the interface and all SDR content. I know HDR has a wider dynamic range, but the reduction in contrast, brightness and saturation is quite severe. Oddly enough youtube HDR content plays flawlessly, with deep and vibrant colours, which makes me think the display itself doesn't have any issue. The display is connected to the mac via HDMI 2.0, which is enough to carry a 4K 60HZ 10-bit HDR signal (converted then to a native 8-bit panel). I'm thinking of doing a month of Netflix 4K, to watch a couple of shows in 4K HDR on Safari (possible since the last update) to do some further testing. Upon doing some research I understood that macOS has trouble in general with non apple-branded displays, and the newly released Apple Silicon made things even more complicated...at least this gives me a chance to hope for a software update. The situation on Windows 10 is much more complicated though... The Windows 10 64-bit (Latest Build) Situation: Similarly to macOS, if I keep the HDR disabled (both in Windows and in the Display Settings), all works well....great quality, vibrant colours but obviously no HDR. If I enable HDR, once again, the youtube HDR content plays wonderfully (even dolby vision), but all the rest of the interface becomes even greyer and desaturated than macOS...On windows it literally becomes a graveyard of colour and contrast up to the point of being unusable, especially given how few games support HDR. The strange thing is that I have serious issues even if I play HDR enabled games. The contrast is still lower than it would be in SDR, and I get some horrible colour-banding (when you see the gradients split into separate "stripes of colour" because the quality is too low to provide smooth gradients. The same problem happens if I play SDR content, while HDR is turned on....no HDR, but still horrible colour banding. When I disable HDR all works well, but of course given the fact I paid for HDR, I'd like to consume some HDR content... The display (in this case) is connected to my GTX 1070 via a high-quality Display-Port Cable; same thing happened with an other brand new display port cable I tried. Given the fact the display plays youtube HDR content normally, and it works perfectly in SDR, I don't think the problem comes from the panel itself, but considering the latest date I can send the display back is January the 31st, I need to know precisely if the problem comes from the display, or somewhere else. I wouldn't want to send this display back, only to experience the same issue with a new unit from benQ. Perhaps, in the Windows case, could it be that my old GTX 1070 (which works nicely in normal use) is just too old to work with HDR? I have actually purchased an RTX 3060TI, but as you can imagine I'll only get it between mid-february and mid-march due to stock shortages. Could it be a windows problem? Is there a setting I'm missing? These are the things I tried in windows 10 (without success) Increasing brightness for the SDR content ,In the HD Colour panel of the settings (this only makes the bright spots of the image super bright, while still not restoring any colour or contrast) Increasing the digital vibrancy in the Nvidia Control Panel (It only artificially adds saturation where there's no color info to begin with, creating a terrible result) Here are the specs of my Windows PC: - MSI Z97 Gaming 5 - Intel i7 4790K 4GHz 4-cores 8-threads - 32 GB Ram DDR3 G.Skill Ripjawz 2133MHz - MSI GTX 1070 Gaming - Windows 10 Pro 64bit (latest Updates) - Latest Nvidia Drivers - Crucial SSD 550MBps Speed What I'm interested in knowing is if you have any way to suggest me how to identify where the problem is, especially ruling out the display? I know this has been a long post, therefore my thanks for helping me are immense. Cheers

Both Auto HDR and Special K have some major plusses over a game's native HDR implementation; namely, they allow you to take HDR screenshots of games when they will sometimes come out with a weird gray haze otherwise. I can't take non-gray screenshots of Hitman 3 in native HDR, but it works fine with either Auto HDR or Special K. Both Auto HDR and Special K also can have better tone-mapping than a game's native HDR. Typically, you have to configure the HDR peak brightness value in the game engine. This can achieve better results than non-native solutions, but that's not always the case. Sometimes, games have a fixed peak brightness of 10K nits (something no screen can do today). They do this because they expect your TV's tone mapper to be on while playing. This doesn't work for monitors where they don't have built-in tone mappers. On my TV, I use HGiG (tone mapper completely disabled) when connected to a PC. Heck, I set it to "Off" (partial tone mapping with brightness roll-off) when connected to my Roku too. From what I've seen, a TV's tone mapper can only do so much because it's averaging the peak brightness of the last 5-or-so frames of data and diminishes the creator's intent. As long as you're using Windows 11, the OS will be tone mapping HDR content to your monitor's reported peak brightness. I've seen this fix HDR videos in Chrome when they were previously blown-out in Windows 10. It's also what sets the peak brightness for Auto HDR. Auto HDR is "upscaling" SDR to HDR. Normally, SDR looks bad when HDR is enabled, but Auto HDR fixes that. Special K gives you more control. Instead of using the OS-level HDR peak brightness value, it can use that, but also lets you set your own peak brightness. This allows more flexibility where your monitor incorrectly reports its peak brightness (both my monitor and my LG C1 are in this camp). Also, Special K injects itself into games, so it has access to actual HDR values in the game engine. All 3D games have colors outside of the SDR range, but they have different mechanisms in place to clamp those values into the SDR space. Special K by-passes that and gives you more control over the final output. Because of this, it looks a lot better than Auto HDR since it's much closer to a native HDR implementation. Hopefully that gives you some reason why Auto HDR and Special K might be better than a game's native HDR: Screenshots and better tone mapping. Also, Auto HDR has the advantage of allowing you to stream the SDR version of a game even though you're seeing the HDR version locally. Only works with OBS so far that I've seen, but it's a reason why I don't use Hitman 3's native HDR solution.

Hi! My Surface Pro 8 has Windows 11 Pro, and this tablet is supposed to support both HDR10 and Dolby Vision. For some reason, I can only play streaming HDR video, but I don't know what that means. If I open Chrome or Edge and go to HDR videos on YouTube, they don't play in HDR. I'm assuming this is something reserved only for Windows Store apps because it works fine in the Dolby Vision app. Is there some way for me to enable HDR outside of Windows Store apps? For whatever reason, even running games in HDR isn't a thing on this device. Why?

Does anyone know of any Windows game that supports Dolby Vision? If you look at the Dolby website, there are tons of games showing that support Dolby Vision, but when I try those same games in Windows, I only get HDR10. It appears Dolby Vision support is only available for Xbox, but I'm not sure. tl;dr [Assumption] Windows does not natively Dolby Vision, only HDR10. Playing back Dolby Vision videos will down-convert to HDR10. Read for more info. HDR is many technologies There are many technologies which make up what we refer to as HDR: WCG ➡ Wide Color Gamut. Defines the location of 100% red, green, or blue. Doesn't affect the number of colors, just what color you'll see when you define an RGB color. HDR ➡ High Dynamic Range. The brightness of individual pixels. Today, the max seen is 10,000 nits. In real life, many things are at an even brighter nit value. HDR10 ➡ Typically graded at 1000 nits in movies, but many HDR10 games are graded for as many as 10,000 nits. Dolby Vision ➡ Typically graded at 4000 nits in movies. Dolby Vision is a way of compressing or tone-mapping HDR data to a display that doesn't support as many nits as the source content on a scene-by-scene basis. Once our displays can do 4000 nits peak brightness at 100% full-frame, today's Dolby Vision will be pretty useless. No clue how Dolby Vision is supposed to do anything in games, but TVs have a separate Dolby Vision mode. I think the way it maps out-of-bounds luminance data is different than HDR10. HDR10+ ➡ Samsung's version of Dolby Vision. Never seen this supported in any games. 10-bit color (or higher) ➡ This defines how many notches there are between red, green, and blue. 10-bit isn't required for HDR, but all media is designed around it as a minimum; so when you're in 8-bit color, you can still activate HDR using FRC (where it dithers to achieve the look of 10-bit color). As far as I know, your monitor needs to support it, but it might be an OS-level thing. BT.2100 Gamma ➡ Gamma is used because your eyes are more sensitive to changes in luminosity (brightness) rather color. All gamma curves are non-linear and weighted toward the bottom (meaning color values are separated more the further away they are from black). BT.2100 is the gamma curve used for HDR. Windows uses 2.2 for SDR content, but BT.2100 is a different kind of curve than simply weighting darks more. No clue how it works; this is all logarithms. HDR in Games Windows has a keyboard shortcut to toggle HDR: WIN + ALT + B. This works as long as you have the Xbox Game Bar enabled, and you can even specify if you want it turned on for only your main or all monitors. Many of today's games support HDR, but to actually view your games in HDR, you will sometimes have to enable HDR in Windows first. There are some games, like Elden Ring, which allow you to toggle the HDR setting in-game even if it's disabled in Windows. The majority of today's HDR monitors are LCDs which lose a ton of black detail while HDR is enabled. This is why you only want to use it when playing games that have bright, colorful scenes. With an OLEDs, Windows is a lot more tolerable in HDR, but even still, you most-likely don't want to enable HDR in Windows because 99% of apps (non-games) are designed for the SDR colorspace and don't look good when mapped to the wider color gamut of HDR. On top of that, the value #ffffff (pure white) is ridiculously bright in HDR. SDR Windows apps will give you some serious eye strain because they define white as the maximum brightness; supposed to be 100-200 nits, not anywhere from 400-10000. HDR in Videos I've played a number of HDR videos in Windows. You can use a plugin like MadVR to get it working in Media Player HomeCinema, but the Windows Movies & TV app natively supports HDR video including Dolby Vision. When playing Dolby Vision content in the Windows Movies & TV app, I'd expect it to change your display over to Dolby Vision if supported, but all it does is down-convert it to HDR10. I'm not even sure if this is a bad thing, but that gives me enough info to believe Windows doesn't support Dolby Vision at all. If it did, the HDR toggle would have 2 available options: HDR10 and Dolby Vision. That or it'd switch your display to the correct mode depending on the on-screen content. HDR History In the past, HDR meant taking multiple photos at different exposure levels and combining them into one to have a higher dynamic range of exposures. It resembled more of what the human eye sees rather than the 1 exposure level you get from a camera, but it also let you see things in the sky that would normally be clipped at the same time as you're seeing people in your photograph. HDR in Games before HDR Valve had HDR in the Source engine since 2005's Half-Life Lost Coast release (originally previewed in 2003), but that game engine was in SDR working in the BT.709 color gamut in 8-bit color. What this did was simulate the way your eyes automatically tone-map or adjust to light sources so when you saw something bright, it'd clip, but eventually come into view much like a camera would at a different exposure. This HDR refers to exposure, not pixel brightness.

Budget (including currency): currently unsure since in research phase (USD) Country: USA Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: • Games > Simulators like American Truck Simulator (ATS), Euro Truck Simulator 2 (ETS2), Custom Order Maid 3D 2 (COM3D2), World of Warcraft (WoW), Final Fantasy Series, and Storyboard Games. 3DXChat and Second Life Online Social Worlds. • Software > Open Broadcaster Software (OBS), PowerDVD 22 Ultra, VideoStudio Ultimate 2022, PaintShop Pro 2023 Ultimate, Clip Studio Paint Other details (existing parts lists, whether any peripherals are needed, what you're upgrading from, when you're going to buy, what resolution and refresh rate you want to play at, etc): • Have the SilverStone SST-SG13P (pink, mesh front panel) with the G11313530-RT I/O Upgrade Kit and the PP08 SFX PSU Adapter in black, but wanting White Vesion. • Looking at the SilverStone SX1000 Platinum for Room to Grow and Reliability (Still have fully functional ST1500 Silver from 2009), the Akko’s Sailor Moon Crystal Series (5108S or 5108B Plus with Akko Crystal Switches Keyboard | AG325 Mouse | Sailor Moon Crystal Mouse Pad | Sailor Moon Crystal Wrist Rest), TrackIR 5 Head Tracking System • Display is my existing Sony KD-55X720E 55” 4K HDR10 TV. not sure on a chipset, cpu, true 2-slot gpu, cpu cooler. thinking a NMVE for boot and 2nd for steam drive depending on mobo features. If only one nmve mobo a large capacity 2.5” SSD since there is 165 games in my Steam Library with lots Add-on DLC (Can Provide Link if helpful). A massive 3.5” HDD would be very helpful for media file work mass storage. So unless a thin aio would clear will need a air cooler. this is a massive decrease in build from original build of quad 1080p 144hrtz to using tv and head tracking for driving sim. Going to build moveable wheel stand out of 8020 aluminum for putting put the way via casters.

Hey guys, im looking for a 4k monitor. I wont buy any monitor next 5-6 years. so i want to buy the best. I play games sometimes, but mostly i edit videos and watch many movies, coding and research on the internet. i sit front of the monitor 6-7 hours in a day. i heard lg's panel is the best but i dont know which to choose. can u help me? . thank u very much for now

Anyone have any info about these, and other monitors like Samsung's new dual 5100x1440p or something another? Most, if not all, of these monitors were announced in 2018 or even 2017. LTT and Paul's Hardware just released videos of the ASUS monitor, but it isn't listed as for sale on any online marketplace I have checked. I have browsed the Asus and Acer forums and the community devs for both sites haven't responded with anything outside of "Soon tm". I have been waiting, furiously I might add, for a monitor with features listed as the ones above since 2017...

I brought a Samsung CRG90 monitor. The weird thing I noticed is that if I run at 120Hz or higher (OC it 144Hz) at 5120 × 1440, it only supports 8 bit color. If I run the same resolution at 100Hz or lower, it will use 10 bit color. I personally dont mind losing 20 Hz for more color because I generally play games that are geared towards looks and story than speed and skill. I mostly brought this monitor because it supports 32:9 1440p, HDR 1000 nit, and higher refresh rate for a smoother video/gameplay. I'm wondering if people would take the higher refresh rate with 8 bit color or take the 10 bit and lower refresh rate?

Unable to turn on HDR tried with 2160 and 1080 on both 60hz and 30hz it keeps toggling back off instantly.Windows 10 Build 1903(18362.449)Display- TCL iFFALCON 55K2A(I can play HDR10 videos via pendrive directly on the TV and it looks great)PC(RX580 Red Devil Golden Sample 8GB) to Display(TCL iFFALCON 55K2A) via HDMI 2.0 cableNote: When playing Resident Evil 2(2019) and Devil May Cry 5 HDR turns on automatically and the TV says HDR10 is ON but it makes everything look worse colors are washed off and looks foggy DMC5 I have to change the resolution to 1440p/1080p and then back to 2160p to turn off HDR to play without HDR(which looks better-normal) in RE2 I have to turn off HDR in game settings to turn off HDR and play without HDR if I play in windowed mode in any resolution on those games HDR won't turn on.Sometimes if I play in 1080p HDR ON and in full screen and then if I switch to desktop using alt+tab or win+tab then in windows settings it shows HDR ON automatically but even my desktop looks way worse with washed off colors and a foggy screen and even the texts are unreadable, So I have to turn off HDR in the settings.Radeon Settings Advisor keeps telling me to apply HDR and WGC when I hit apply same thing happens the screen flashes for a sec and then if I hit scan again it will show the same message.will attach the pics of my radeon settings I never changed them it's all defaultWhat might be the problem is there any way to fix it?Please help me out. Dxdiag info if that helps---------------Display Devices---------------Card name: Radeon RX 580 SeriesDAC type: Internal DAC(400MHz)Device Type: Full Device (POST)Current Mode: 3840 x 2160 (32 bit) (60Hz)HDR Support: SupportedDisplay Topology: InternalDisplay Color Space: DXGI_COLOR_SPACE_RGB_FULL_G22_NONE_P709Color Primaries: Red(0.659180,0.339844), Green(0.244141,0.669922), Blue(0.129883,0.040039), White Point(0.312500,0.329102)Display Luminance: Min Luminance = 0.010000, Max Luminance = 1499.000000, MaxFullFrameLuminance = 799.000000Monitor Name: Generic PnP MonitorMonitor Model: TCL SMART TVMonitor Id: TCL0058Native Mode: 3840 x 2160(p) (60.000Hz)Output Type: HDMIMonitor Capabilities: HDR Supported (BT2020RGB BT2020YCC Eotf2084Supported )Display Pixel Format: DISPLAYCONFIG_PIXELFORMAT_32BPPAdvanced Color: AdvancedColorSupported

Turns out Asus has released a monitor dedicated to editors on pure accurate colour gamuts. Supporting HDR10 and Dolby Vision at 1400 nit brightness. Would be nice to see Linus do a review on it. Article: https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/asus-proart-pa32ucx