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From the album: Overclocked HIS HD Radeon 7850
This is my overclock running Kombustor. -
Hi I am trying to copy my Steam library to a 1tb Seagate Baracuda HD, a spinny one not an ssd. Once copied I will use the Seagate drive for Steam instead of the current one which only has a small Steam partition (and which is full) so I can use the old Steam space for other files. I have the Seagate drive plugged into a usb to sata adaptor which I have used without any issues in the past, and used around 3 months ago for a similar task. Once the copy is done it will go into the pc case; I’m doing it this way as I can also make sure the drive is working without having to open the case repeatedly. However the copy is not working. It runs fine for around 10 mins and then just stops with a transfer rate of 0 bytes, which periodically rises to a few k or maybe a few mb before dropping to 0 again. As a result a copy that should take a couple of hours is likely to take a couple of decades. I thought that Seagate used cmr for drives below 2tb but am now wondering if this is a symptom of me having an smr drive, or maybe I just have a dud drive? Could it be some weird caching issue? Does anyone know if this is a symptom of a dud drive, smr – rather than cmr (I am confused as to effects of one or the other), or something else and how I might be able to find out? Oddly I can access the Seagate drive while the copy is frozen and just reading directories etc is fine, so it does not appear to be a communications issue, rather a problem with the write speed. There is no odd clicking from the drive and the heads are not hunting as far as I can tell Hope someone can help and thanks in advance.
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Hello, would anyone recommend any good software for upscaling video files to HD (1080p) or 4k (2160p), preferably free or for a decent price? Thank you.
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Hi, I noticed some games have DLC named HD texture pack or similar? what is this? does this make the game crisper? add new settings options? affect performance? why wont they just added to the original game download and have it activated in game.? thanks,
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while ago, I had an issue where my master boot sector on my os ssd died and forced me to have format and re-install my os. At the same time, my storage drive died and I found a burnt area on the pcb of the 2tb hs4d drive. So I think something took a power surge from the psu and killed one hd and damaged the mbs on the boot ssd. After I figured all that out. I got some new drives (the system would boot straight into the bios. and the ssd could be read by another pc when connected via sata, thats how i figured it was a boot sector, but not the whole drive) installed, the new 2 tb drive would not even spin. I figured I just got a bad drive and returned it and exchanged it for a new drive. Got it home and the exact same thing happened. connected... no spin, not configurable. Took it back again, the tech looked at it. smelled it, no burnt smell, even tried it on his test bed in the back.. no spin for him either. Got a 3rd drive. installed it into my backup pc and what do you know.. works fine. So my question.. it feela like my psu killed 3 hd now, how do i test to make sure its my psu and not something else. tldr; i think my psu has killed 3 seperate hd's. and tried to kill a ssd. but it survived almost intact. Is there anyway to test a psu to verify the psu is dying? its about 6 years old. coolermaster 80 btonze 750watt thanks. any help would be appreciated.
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Hi all, Is it possible to replace a "1024 × 768" laptop display with a "1920 × 1080" model? The laptop is a Toshiba Tecra z40-a-16z, and I have found full HD replacement screens on ebay. The basic questions are: 1. Will the higher resolution screen be supported in terms of connectors, display adaptor, motherboard etc? 2. Will the i5 4310U processor cope with the extra strain of maintaining the higher amount of pixels? 3. Has anyone tried this before, and do you have any advice? Finally this is more of an "is it possible" question - I'm less concerned about cost effectiveness e.g. i'm aware it may be more sensible to just buy a new laptop. Thanks in advance, Dominic
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I am starting a YouTube channel really soon and after I build my rig I need to buy a camera as well. I want good HD video for under 120$ I know absolutely nothing about cameras other than the differences between resolutions and have no idea what a lot of the specifications mean or anything like that so I'm kinda lost as to what to purchase.
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Hello there fellow PC enthusiast! (tl;dr at the bottom) First off thank you for clicking on my thread, because I'll be needing any and all help I can get and any info at all would be great. Okay so I was browsing a certain popular New Zealand auction site and I found a deal. The deal was for a Radeon HD 7970 $30 NZD, faulty. So I decided to take it upon myself to repair it. I am already running a Gigabyte Windforce GTX 670. I have never repaired a GPU before so I am pretty much a level 0 noob at repairing this type of thing. But I am %110 willing to learn. I've made an imgur album with all the pictures, and don't worry there is no such thing as a potato quality camera on the Note 4. The guy I brought it from stated that.. "Found out that the previous owner had baked it but didn't know what he was doing as he most likely left it in there a bit too long. I would think about 2-3 hours and a steady hand to resolder some of the components down and you would be good to go" Once I received the GPU I put in my system and powered it on only to find that the fans spin, the logo shines bright and it doesn't display. So the dude who sold it to me was an honest one and didn't sell me a completely dead GPU only to say no refunds, thank the non-existent god I don't believe in. I have taken apart GPUs in the past to clean/reapply thermal paste so it was a relatively easy process. Upon first glance I saw no exploded capacitors or burnt out microchips. I took off a metal cooling bracket to find the problem. A series of small silver microchips had become de soldered, I guess when the previous owner put it in the oven. My guess is that that the chips solder melted and due to the placement of the GPU fans down they came slightly away from the board. Thus making it even more dead. Any help would greatly be appreciated. If you've gotten this far thanks for reading my post. Leave a comment with your thoughts. Links: GPU Specs: https://www.cnet.com/products/sapphire-vapor-x-hd-7970-ghz-edition-graphics-card-radeon-hd-7970-6-gb/specs/ Imgur Album:http://imgur.com/a/IhhkC Tl:Dr Microchips on the board have been heated up in the past. The have fallen off, how do I re solder them back on/ check to see if they still work?
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Hey guys, So I am putting together a new rig and absolutely adore both of these fans and cannot for the life of me decide what I like more. Honestly I don't think I can go wrong but I can't find anybody directly comparing the two units. Just wanted some community feedback on the topic Cheers
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My sister have this dell inspiron 15r 5537-a10. In specks it should be "ok" for a notebook, but it keeps the HD in 100%. Fresh install and the problem persists. I've tried all the tutorials I've found and no tutorial can stop the "100%". And this is not a problem exclusive to that dell, or of notebooks, the problem of 100% HDs is a well-known problem from Windows 10. The only solution I found is install a SSD... But this is not, really, a "solution", it is just divert the problem... Why is this happening? Whose fault is that? Is it from windows 10? Is it Segate HD? Are the drivers? Is it Dell's fault? I see this happen, in windows 10, even with new computers(new Hard Drives) What happens here? Microsoft forgot to program Windows 10 to work at least "ok" in Hard Drives?
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So I recently purchased a Samsung V-NAND SSD 850 EVO and want to add it to my rig. It is much smaller than my current hard drive and thus can't hold all of the data from my hd if I were to clone it. I don't have access to an external hard drive to store my extra data either. Is there a way that I can install the new SSD, make it the boot drive as well as have a small amount of apps stored on it for quick use and then use my old hd as a storage drive without having to delete half of my data. I do have a flash drive with the correct version of windows 7 on it if that helps me any. Thanks!
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Hey guys! I haven't seen much about the lowly HD Radeon 6350, so since I had one laying around, I made a little review and tested out some games to see if it is good enough to play anything. I hope you enjoy it, and if you have any comments on things I could change in future videos, I would really appreciate your feedback! The link is in my status update. Thanks!
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Hey lads, about 4 months ago my brother (11) recieved my old pc. Now he would like to upgrade it a bit for more performance..... im not sure what i should do because his CPU and GPU arent the best anymore, and he loves saubnautica but mostly gets hardly playable frames on low. The specs now: CPU AMD FX-4300 oc @ 4,6 Ghz stable Cooler Alpenföhn Brocken RAM 8.00GB Corsair Dual-Channel DDR3 @ 669MHz (i think 1 stick has an error) Motherboard ASUS M5A78L-M/USB3 GPU 2048MB MSI AMD Radeon HD 7850 oc @ 975clock, 1020 memory Storage 250GB Crucial SSD 1500GB Seagate something 600 watt Corsair CX shitty sharkoon case and a random samsung 60hz 1080p monitor which isnt bad for about 100-200 Euros, what would you guys buy to upgrade this old pc a bit?
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Hey good folks of LTT forum. I just uppgraded my desktop for several of reasons. I used to have: FX 8350 GTX 1060, AMD radeon 270X Samsung SSD 840 250GB FireCuda SSHD 1TB HyperX 8GB x2 RAM I keept the drives after I uppgraded but I formated the C drive and did a clean WIN 10 PRO install on the Samsung drive. but the new parts are: Ryzen 1700, GTX 1060 + GTX 760 Corsair Vengeance 3200 MHz 8GB x2 I run the RAM at 2666 MHz or something around there, I tried to run it at 3200 but it failed no suprise there, but I manage to make it work at 2933 or something like that, and it worked fine until I started playing BF1, every time i minimized the game the RAM skyrocketed and the PC got unusable even if I manage to shutdown the game and had to restart, after I turned it down a little more. Also it the system crashed once and that's the main reason why I turned down the MHz. the point is, the system works pretty good, my average FPS are much much better even with my crappy 3GB 1060 card. rendering times are super fast compared to the old system, but there is one issue that I still have. and that is random "freezing" or "stuttering" it feels most noticeable when browsing the web as I can see the cursor not moving at all, all sound still plays but all video stops. I was thinking it could have been the GPU, but it seems to not matter witch card I use. So I was wondering, could it be my SSD? it is very old, but barely used before the last 2 years. and the Samsung software say "Drive condition: GOOD" so I assumed it was in good condition before I bought the parts so I did not want to make the additional cost of buying a new SSD M.2 I am now wondering if that was a mistake not to do. So what do you guys think? is it possible that my SSD is not as GOOD as the software tells me? or do you thing something else are causing this issue?
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So I want to get a new monitor that I can add for a dual monitor setup but as I am moving to the UK at the end of the summer I want to know if there will be any problems. I know that TVs have an issue, something with different wavelengths or inputs and whatnot but I don't foresee any issue with a monitor. The only thing that would have to change is the cable to plug into the UK ports. The US uses 120V and the UK is 240V but I don't see that as an issue or something I can really do much about, power supplies on PCs can do both so why not monitors? So will the power delivery thing be more of an issue and are there any other things to think about? Thanks! This is the monitor I am looking at getting http://www.bestbuy.com/site/acer-27-led-hd-monitor-black/4753004.p?skuId=4753004
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Hi guys, so I'm building an enthousiast gaming pc, with a GTX 1080Ti, Intel I7-7700K and 32GB of DDR4 memory. But my question is what Storage should i use? I definitely want a HD and some kind of SSD (SATA or M.2), I have looked at the different types of SSD and the many HD's that are out there, but i get a little overwhelmed by the choice i have. Can you guys help me out choosing a HD and SSD? I'm looking for around a 1TB HD and a 500GB - 1TB SSD. Thanks in advance, Luke
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Hi, Im looking for a new pair of headphones and I want to go Sennheiser, just don't know all the differences between the models in the HD 500 series. So basically HD 558, HD 559, HD 598, HD 599 and HD 579 (568 and 569 are closed, I want open). Who wins and which is best value?
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Hi just wondering what you all think of my fan curve , runs overwatch at 76d max at around 60 percent fan which isn't to loud, any louder is annoying What do you think https://ibb.co/gFmtyF
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Hey everyone, i am wondering if there are any decent mobile phones on the market with a high resolution HD camera? I am looking for a replacement phone for my HTC Desire 310. Any ideas? Thanks.
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This is my future pcbuild gonna be video editing gaming on this and graphic design. now i need some suggestions to knock down price ill start by buying case. https://pcpartpicker.com/list/WKQvkT forgot llink
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Hey, I am in dire need of some help. I just upgraded my computer from a FX 8350 to a Ryzen 7 1700. And performance wise I am very happy, it finally a smooth gaming experience instead of a rollercoaster one, stable frames instead of a god median but horrible switch between low and high FPS witch I find very frustrating. and I haven't even updated the bios or anything like that yet, so exited to see how it works after I've done that. HOWEVER, the issue I have is that my secondary hard drive is a no show after I upgraded, and I suspect why but don't know how to fix it without losing my data. I had to upgrade to windows 10 so I bought a Win 10 PRO OEM OS, it all worked and legit for just 10 bucks. However, again. I had this super weird issues all the time I had WIN 7 that I could not right click on files in file explorer then file explorer would crash and some times give me an error message saying something about RPC. So I decides to just format the whole C drive and put the little of documents and pictures and stuff that's important as a back up to my F: drive before I formatted it and installed WIN 10. How ever, I can no longer see my old hardrive, and I suspect the reason are simply because I formatted and did a clean install on my C: drive and not upgrade and "keep files" I only wanted to keep the F: drive files anyway. I did not think this probably trough and I hope some one here might be able to save me from my stupidity. ohh yeah, the drive do off course show up in the device manager, but that does not help me much. Best regards - Pål-Marius S. Hansen
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I have a SSD that i want to erase everything on (including the OS) so that i can have a clean install of windows for my new PC. I don't know much about reformatting or partitions so it would be helpful if you explained it to me. Thanks.
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My sisters laptop(Asus x450CA BR, the i5 3317, 6gb ram 500gb 5400rpm model) stoped working so she gave it to me. First I tought it might be a software issue(it had so many viruses it couldnt even log in), so i formated the pc and tried to install windows 10 with an external drive, but it just dont accept the OS and keep restarting. The steps i took: -Selected pen drive with win 10 installation program as boot drive -confirmed installation -selected hard drive to install it When the item "preparing files" reaches 100% the pc just restart. I think this is a hard drive problem, maybe swaping the hd will do the trick?