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So, I have been using soft tubing for the last 3 years in my watercooling experience, and 2 months ago, I built myself a new system, and I went hard tubing. At first, I loved it, I loved doing it, and, even if the bends aren't perfect since I'm not very experience, think it looks amazing. But recently, I've been thinking of switching back... As much as I love it, It is becoming more and more impractical... I do a lot of hardware testing for my friends and I like to just play around to tiddy up my cables and such... My question is, would you guys do the switch back to soft tubing if you were in my situation? or simply, what type of tubing is your favorite?

Well now. It would seem someone has left me a present.

Hello, I am still planning out my first water cooling computer. I have decided to get hardtubing, but I cant figure out what fittings to get. My tubing is the PrimoChill 1/2 inch Rigid PETG tubing. It is 1/2 inch OD and 3/8 inch ID. I want to keep the fittings at the lowest price possible, but i am fine with spending a more. I will need atleast 10 fittings for x2 radiators, pump res combo, gpu, and cpu. Also what should I do for draining? Thank you for your help

Hello Everyone! I'm looking for some advice for my new Intel 7900x+GTX 1080Ti Workstation/Gaming Build. So far I have everything done but tube bending. I am looking for a good hard tubing user who likes to plan pipe routes or could suggest some mockups in mspaint for example. Here is my IMGUR Album... I have EK 16mm PETG tubing and just about any fitting you would need. I also have a drain ball valve. There are 2 Rad's total. The top has a 280 and the front has a 420mm. I'm having problems planning the loop out. I plan on using bends for most of the curves instead of fittings however i have several 45's, 90's, 2x45's, Y spliter, and 3F Block Splitter This is the new Cosmos 700p Case. Thanks Everyone here is the album. Parts: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/wwBqGf Album: https://imgur.com/a/4snpK

Perhaps some watercooling veterans can help me here. Not long ago I upgraded my soft tubing system to hard tubing and was rather happy with the results despite having to resort to some unconventional angles and routing. Some time passed and all was going swimmingly, as time went by I started noticing liquid pooling around the seal on the tube running from the top of the GPU to the top radiator, the best I could do with it however was to dry it off and pray that it would not carry on. Unfortunately one evening before my eyes and behind the windowed side panel i watched the GPU drop away from the tubing and liquid spray up under pressure onto the motherboard, the PC instantly shut itself off and I pulled the power on it, whipped the panel off and managed to cram the tube back into the fitting and stop the leaking. I have bought and fitted a new Motherboard, new pump, and new fans as a repair and all is working again, while replacing the tubing I noticed that the offending connection was crushed and warped unlike any of the others. The new system is currently working with improved temperatures but I am beginning to see a very similar warping on the same connection as before. What am I doing wrong here? I assume it is a combination of the GPU heat and the weight of the waterblock just loosening and warping over time but it has only been about three weeks since the replacements, is there anything i can do to remedy this? Thank you all.

Is there any outstanding reason that my GPU is running 50 degrees at idle and all the way up to 90+ under load? It is an MSI 980ti that is not overclocked. My i5 6600k overclocked to 4.5ghz maxes out at 60 degrees in the same cooling loop. There is one 360 rad at the top of the case and a 240 rad mounted to the front.

Hello, I thought I'd log my build as it has been such a painstakingly difficult process! It isn't completed yet, I still need to throw in a 1080tI and complete two lines of tubing but I can finally see the end... and it will be so rewarding when I get there! Anyway. I used to have a MATX Bitfenix Aegis case in which I had an I5-4690K paired with a 1070 at first and then a 1080Ti. The PC had a pretty neat dual radiator cooling system paired with a whole in 1 pump. It was a flexible tubing build with constant white lighting from a total of 9 Coolermaster 120mm and 140mm fans. Cooling was exceptional and it was a positive pressure build so dust was never an issue despite being in one heck of a dusty city (Melbourne). I felt the urge to upgrade the CPU after 5 years of trustworthy performance and sold the whole build. I owned a Razer blade 2016 for a while and the performance loss from the external GPU was just depressing so after about a year of ownership (much of it concurrent with that of my desktop), I sold it to another adventurous soul. So. I decided to build a more compact watercooled desktop that would pack a punch and look slick. I started by looking at a few cases and narrowed it down to two - The Phanteks Enthoo Evolv Mini ITX and the Fractal Design Define Nano S. I wanted a small build with great watercooling options. The Fractal case won out because it made no sense to me that the Phanteks case enabled top mounting a 280mm rad without efficient airflow (seriously!). I still had my 1080Ti (FE) so I proceeded with the selection of the other components: I7 7700K ASUS ROG Strix 270i G.Skill Trident Z RGB F4-3200C16D-16GTZR 16GB (2x8GB) DDR4 Samsung 960 EVO NVMe M.2 1TB SSD Thermaltake Riing Plus 12 RGB Premium Edition Fan 3pk Phanteks F140MP Premium PWM 140mm Radiator Fan Black/White EK CoolStream SE 240 Slim Dual Radiator EK CoolStream CE 280 Dual Radiator EK RES X3 110 Reservoir EK-XTOP Revo D5 PWM Pump Plexi EK FB ASUS Z270I Strix RGB Monoblock Nickel EK Full Cover EK-FC1080 GTX Ti Backplate - Black & EK Full Cover VGA Block EK-FC1080 GTX Ti - Nickel Upon receiving all this great kit, excited as I was, and having removed/assembled GPU waterblocks tens of times before, I proceeded to installing the waterblock on the 1080 Ti and 4 resistors later, I was done... Not kidding. In one foul swoop I destroyed my beautiful GPU. I didn't cry or get angry (surprisingly). I stood up, grabbed my keys and went for a long stroll. Over the next few days, I tried myself at welding, baking GPUs etc. On the bright side, between experiments I assembled the rig - and it was looking great. I had purchased 10mm hard tubing by Alphacool which is UV reactive and received OCcool fittings from Germany, including two 90 degree and two 45 degree fittings. I then tried myself at bending tubing. Overcooked the first two which bubbled up like a cane toad's skin and then undercooked the next few which just didn't look right. A few meters of tubing later (literally) I had one or two good(ish) bends. I assembled the lot, leak test - it leaked... Redid a bend, leak test - it held up. Excited, I connected the power to the CPU, GPU and mobo, powered up the beast and POOF! A puff of smoke, a flash and a dead GPU (confirmed dead at this point I guess...). At that point in time I made two decisions: 1. Bends, although I was convinced they had merit my looking at various videos, I would avoid, using 90 degree fittings instead. 2. I wouldn't bother building my righ absent a GPU. So, time passed (like a month or more) and time is an amateur modder's worst enemy. I decided I would upgrade the potential of my build from great to epic, and so I ordered UV LEDs and UV die (clear) for my build. And you know what? It looks super cool! Now a few details I skipped: The motherboard supports ASUS Aura (RBG lighting) but has only one set of RGB connectors The motherboard has no USB2.0 connector (3.0 only) The Thermaltake fan hub (to control the lights & speed) requires a 2.0 mobo connector The Phanteks fan connectors are different to Thermaltake's and are therefore not compatible with the fan "hub" The solutions were simple: USB 3.0 to USB2.0 Mobo adapter Corsair Commander controller fan hub allowing redirection of the USB2.0 signal to the Termaltake fan hub. Therefore we have: Mobo 3.0 connector > 3.0 to 2.0 adapter > Corsair Commander > Thermaltake hub With the two 140mm Phantek fans connected to the Corsair Commander and the three 120mm RGB fans connected to the Thermaltake hub. Now I am still not sure whether or not I'll be able to control the fan speed or lighting due to the use of an adapter - I am hoping I can but yet TBD. I could have opted for two 140mm Thermaltake RGB fans but I really like the muted appearance of the Phanteks combined with their "amazing" performance (according to other threads). So the status quo is: The 280mm and 240mm radiators fit in the case - it's snug, but it works. I have the 280mm rad at the front with two 140mm fans in pull configuration inside the case and the 240mm rad at the top, as close as possible to the window to make room for the RAM sticks, supported by two 120mm fans in push config. I also have a 120mm fan at the rear of the case pushing hot air out of the case - hesitant to rotate it so it pulls cool air in as I would need a filter and at this point in time cannot be bothered. I have hard line tubing linking the CPU to the 240mm top rad, the top rad dripping into the reservoir, the reservoir down into the pump, pump into the 280mm front rad. Once I get the GPU I will route the front rad to the GPU and then the GPU to the CPU and we can call it a build. The tubing from the res to the pump is vertical and would go along the contour of the GPU. I think despite being tight that it will fit. If it doesn't, I can use the two little 1/4 extenders that came with the res to push the loop closer to the window and clear the GPU - nice to have a plan for once... I prefer the look without bends - the black corner fittings blend well with the build. The positioning of the UV strips was difficult - initially I hat 80cm of strips going around the window and lighting it all very nicely. But like everything, good things never last and upon installing the two top fans, I realised I no longer had enough clearance. Now I have two separate strips, one hidden behind the top rad and facing down and the second 60cm strip along the bottom and front edges of the window. Happy for now but with two little worries: Will I be able to control fan speed and lighting through the USB3.0 to USB2.0 adapter? I have three different RGB lighting zones: The motherboard with the CPU cooler and the RAM The two RGB lighting strips The three 120mm fans (top x 2 and rear x 1) Ideally I would like points 1 and 2 above to be linked and 3 to only run when temps exceed X (party mode!). To do that, I need to configure the RGB cabling differently (likely mobo RGB header to split connector which goes to the 2 strips and connecting the CPU RGB connector to the end of one of the 2 strips). Next update will be when I get the GPU and finalise the build - I hope this is helpful to others looking at building a watercooled system in the Fractal Design Define Nano S. Thanks for reading! Mike

Hey guys I want to use titanium 3/8 - 5/8 tubing for my new build... I was thinking either doing straight runs with angle fittings or making custom bends (welding)... i know it adds more leak points but I am not concerned about that... i just want to know if will be OK to use for water cooling... will also be using premixed coolant with rust and corrosion protection Thanks

Hi guys, I started a few days ago a build and I'm currently wainting on some parts to arrive. Long story short I was just looking through the build logs in this forum and here I am.. I first wanted to build an X58 system with a nice Xeon and water cooling for the cpu, northbridge and the vrm modules. I actually did start the build but then I got some nice deals on X79 parts. Here the configuration: Asus Rampage IV Black Edition (E-ATX and part of another story ) Intel Xeon E5 2680 v2 (10 Cores, 20 threads and decent frequencies) (Also part of another story) 8x8GB DDR-3 1333Mhz ECC memory, because it was so damn cheap (around 100 USD) Radeon R9 290X (will upgrade it probably once the new Nvidia cards release and it came already with the block) 180GB Intel SSD, 2TB Samsung HDD 500W BeQuiet Strainght Power PSU (80 Plus Gold) Now to the first story that made me go crazy. The motherboard is an E-ATX board. I however use a Fractal Meshify C case that only has support for up to ATX motherboards. That wouldn't have been a problem if I didn't decide to upgrade the board from a P9X79 Pro to this one. But I really didn't wanna have anything blue in my system.... so here we are.. . I took the dremel and cut some parts out of the case to make it fit. Then the Xeon, I saw a video on Level1Techs by Wendell and it really got me think. He compared a Xeon E5 2680 (Sandybridge-E CPU) to the new Skylake X 10 core CPU and the Xeon somehow did really, really well. Probably thanks to its massive cache and the ringbus architecture. I decided to go with the Xeon E5 2680 v2. It is a bit more expensive but gives you 2 more cores and 4 more threads, higher clocks and the newer Ivybridge architecture. I'm really curious on how this Xeon is going to perform. You can actually also enable the "Multicore Enhancement" Setting in the Asus Bios which alows the Xeon to clock higher on all cores in Turbo boost. I'm still going with the water cooling setup because I already ordered it from China. I'm Swiss and let me tell you that PC parts and water cooling parts aren't cheap here. So it really makes sense to go with second hand and used PC parts. And I always had good experience with Chinese water cooling stuff. You just have to search for the right things (D5 pumps etc.). The fluid is going to be red (Mayhems X1) because I still have concentrate lying around. I don't really have a name for the build and I'm interested to see what kind of names you come up with.

So as a preface, While I'm fairly new to the LTT Forums I've been watching Linus since back when he did the unboxing of the RC tank, and I'm not new to watercooling by any stretch of the imagination. HOWEVER I have not built a water loop in a very long time and am no longer familiar with the market, so I was hoping people here would be willing to help me work out a solution that could meet my needs and wants. While I haven't built it yet, I have parted out a machine here that I'm definitely not moving on (though I may forego storage in the short term to complete the build with disks I already have) and I wanted to build an all-aluminum water loop due to it's slightly better heat dissipation even if it's actual conductivity is a bit worse than copper. however, I ran into a problem. The blocks I'd settled on (EK-AC GEFORCE GTX and EK-SUPREMACY AX individual blocks from the EK A240G kit) do not have any flavor of galvanic resistance, and as per this post will probably never have a decent Hard-tube option, as far as I'm aware. So now I'm in the market for any water loop that strikes a respectable balance of cost per performance. I only have a few stipulations in that I'd prefer to not breach $500, but am willing to go up to $1000 for the loop, and if possible, I'd like to light the piping either in RGB or purple since the case has lighting but is otherwise dark. I will be using this primarily for heat management as I intend to OC out of the box. Anyone willing to help, your effort is much appreciated!

Okay, this seems really strange, but I don't want to mess with hard tubing. I was wondering if it was possible such that each soft tube was straight but could be joined together with angle adapters to create a neat look. Like for example: you have a long tube going up and then an angle adapter and then a smaller tube connecting to the rad Thanks

I am planning to liquid cool a pc in a thermaltake chase mk-1 case. I would like to do a hard tubing system going from 2 240mm radiators, a dual slot 5.25 reservoir/pump combo, and a graphics card block. How much tubing would I need?

Looking for a site with this fitting in Stock that can deliver to the US. I need 10 of them and don't want to pay over $20usd each. Trying to get them by thrusday so I can finish and 24 hr leek test my pc on my days off. http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-deluxe-white-enhance-90-degree-dual-multi-link-adapter.html