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Found 333 results

  1. Hello, I've been planning a home NAS build and found some builds using the NZXT H440. It seems like that case is very close to my personal *best* case compromise between available capacity, size, drive cooling etc. Unfortunately it seems to be discontinued. Has anybody seen a good alternative? The main features I'm looking for are: - 8 or more 3.5" HDDs - all HDD's MUST be well cooled (ie. direct blast from a fan) - *relatively* compact, no bigger than the H440 is. Approximately 51 x 22 x 47.6 cm OR 20 x 9 x 19 inches. - dust resistant - budget of AU$200. Open to minor upgrades over time. I'm located in Australia, not keen on importing. This NAS will be in hot weather (easily 40 deg C or 104 deg F) during the summer. I've spotted the Phanteks Eclipse P400A, which SEEMS to have similar features, but requires a separate purchase of those drive cages. From videos it appears the front fans may interfere with the drive cage installation? Thanks all.
  2. welcome owners of the newest case added to the NZXT case line-up, the H440. here is a centralized thread designated for the NZXT H440 case. we welcome all owners to post pictures of their build and praise and critique the experience using the NZXT H440. here benefits, issues, what works and what does not can be laid out here, instead scattered across the forum. enjoy. SPECS:
  3. Good day guys, so I just finished building my first PC, and I was happy to say the least. Here are my build's part list: -i5 8400 - GTX 970 -NZXT H440 Razer ed. case -NZXT Kraken X61 -Thermaltake Riing 14 kit (for the X61 rad and for one more exhaust fan) -Corsair HX1200i -Asus Z370 Prime -Hyperx 8GB DDR4 2400 MHz -Teamforce 120GB SSD This is gonna be long so bare with me. So before I started building the PC, I've watched videos and read the manuals of the parts I am using. So I managed to completely build the PC, and mind you, learning where to plug those numerous cables was tough. So after it posted and booted to Windows, everything was fine, but then I noticed that any of the front pre-installed fans and the LEDs were not working. I knew they had hubs for each of them so I rechecked, the LEDs should be working because the 4-pin cable to Molex was plugged, checked I also checked the connection to the PSU, which seems fine. So I just skipped that, then when I went to the fan hub, my Thermaltake kit was working fine (it is connected to the FAN 1 4-pin port), but the other fans (the ones included in the case) were not working, then I saw that the 3-pin cable going to the fan hub is not connected, so I figured that maybe that was the culprit because no power was going to the hub. The 3-pin plug was connected to the Molex to the PSU, and the 4-pin (which is plugged into the LED hub) was also connected to the same Molex end. It is basically one cable with one 3-pin and one 4-pin plugs and a molex at the end. I turned on the PC, and to my shock, something was burning, so I turned off my PC immediately then checked what burned. My initial idea was the 3-pin cable I just plugged onto the fan hub, and I was right! It was a relief that only that cable got damaged, and all the other parts were still working good (hopefully!). So my questions are: 1) How come the Thermaltake fans (4-pin connected to FAN 1) still turned on when the 3-pin cable for power was disconnected in the fan hub, but the 3 pre-installed front fans were not (they have 3-pin plugs going to the fan hub, FAN 2, 3, 4). 2) Why did the 3-pin cable from the fan hub to the Molex end burn, while the 4-pin cable plugged onto LED hub on the same Molex was unaffected? Specifically the GROUND wire was the only cable that melted on the 3-pin cable. 3) Could the problem be the PSU? Or that specific port? The Molex cable for the PSU is connected to the SATA/peripheral port, that is correct, right? Any help is appreciated. Hopefully, some H440 Razer users could help me with this. Thanks guys
  4. Right now I have the h440 picked out, but I am looking for some other options. -I want good air flow -Full ATX -Decent amount of drive bays for expansion(I do video editing so it really piles up) -Good cable management -Sound damping is OK, along as it doesn't effect any of the other things -Budget is around $110ish, but I can spend more Here is my build - http://pcpartpicker.com/list/ngKdbj
  5. Hi guys. Can anyone give me a bit of info regarding getting some extra case fans? Link to the planned build is here: http://nz.pcpartpicker.com/list/wkmmFd A couple notes about the build list: Please note it is in NZD, and the pricing has not been optimized as yet - but don't concern yourself with that side of things now. I'm looking at getting either the Phanteks Evolv ATX TG case, or the H440 from NZXT. Evolv ATX would be my favourite really. I believe from memory the Evolv comes with 1 exh. and 2 intake fans on the front panels. It has a fan port hub that can have I think 6 fans attached to it. The TG version also has an RBG controller for the case and LED strip lighting. The H440 with 1 exh. and 3 intake fans on the front panel. This one from memory has a fan hub that can attach 10 fans. The Z170-A board I have selected, may in fact not be available in NZ for some unknown reason. Instead there is a Z170-AR that i'm not sure what the difference actually is. The Z170-A has I beleive 4x 4-pin headers, +1 for the CPU cooler, and 1 that could go to a fan hub - presumably the one fitted to the case. Ignore all the fans in the parts list - I just added them since for some reason partpicker won't bring case fans marked as favourites to the top of the parts list like it does for other items. The power requirements of the PC are also artificially bloated because of this. Feel free to correct any of those details - going from memory here. However what I would really like to know is, are either cases compatible with LED fans? I mean, do the LED fans just have 1 colour that is powered on whenever the computer is powered on? Does this work for plugging them in the case fan hub or if you connect them directly to the motherboard? One in particular I looked at was the AP121 from Silverstone. These I would mount on the front intake area. I don't really need RGB fans, just 1 colour would do (going for an andestite grey case with blue lighting most likely). Alternatively I know there is the Z170 Pro Gaming Aura MB from Asus - but again can't confirm when/if that will be available in NZ. In the end my priorities would be Cooling Noise Level (doesn't need to be silent but needs to be reasonable) Aesthetics like lighting If you have advise for any case fans at all (doesn't need to be LED related) i'm happy to hear it as well. Thanks all.
  6. I am planning to change my current NZXT h440 razer edition case(Don't like its look) to NZXT s340 elite(Matte Black). Can you recommend a good cooling system for overlocking my 5960x in s340 elite? Is the Nzxt Kraken x62 a good choice?
  7. From the album: My New Rig

    My new rig put together,minus GPU, with ram plastidipped white.
  8. Hello community, just a quick couple of questions: I want to improve the temps of my H440 by changing the default fans, planning on getting 1xCorsair AF140 (Back/Exhaust) 3xCorsair SP120 (Front/Intake) and 3xCorsair SP120, two of them will be used on H110i V2 Radiator (Top/Exhaust), so, my questions are: 1. Are SP fans better on this particular case? I've read that on a couple of forums. 2. At this moment, the first slot on top of the case is empty, It would be a good idea if I go 3x120mm on top? Or it would create a "battle" between the first fan on top and the top fan on front? Currently I'm using the "card trick" on that slot (saw that on Reddit, supposedly it helps with airflow, not sure about it tho) Check the image link here Thanks for your answers!
  9. hi i just want to upgrade my case to the NZXT H440 2015 Edition and i want to know if my motherboard can support this case GIGABYTE GA-H81M-S2H INTEL LGA1150 and i want to put a ZOTAC GeForce GTX 1070 AMP Extreme 8GB thanks in advance
  10. I'm going to buy NZXT H440 (New Edition Silent Ultra) white case and it comes with 3x 120mm fans in front and 1x 140mm on the rear. The case is lovely but has somewhat restricted airflow in the front and on the top. I'm going to use Kraken X62 AIO cooler on top. Would replacing the front 120mm stock fans with NZXT's new Aer-P static fans do any notable difference? Case: here Aer P fans: here Thank you in advance!
  11. So im building my First PC in the NZXT H440 and im wondering what screws i should use for the motherboard installation the 6-32 Screw Flat, or the M3*5Flat
  12. Hello, friends! As the topic states, i've been watching all the reviews and unboxings, I have been considering my build and I feel like my head is going to explode because I cannot decide on a case. At this point, it has come down to the NZXT H440 or the Corsair 750D (probably the airflow edition). I am having such a hard time deciding because they are all great cases and my issues between them all are so small its just impossible for me to choose. So for the love of science, would someone, or all of you, just tell me what to do. My issues with the 750D: Can't remove the 5.25 bays. redundancy annoys me. No fan filters on the bottom after you remove the drive bays. (I will be using the SSD mounts in the back) It's dated. Issues with the H440: I'd like a bigger window. Possible airflow issues? I don't love the PSU shroud. It's smaller than the 750D. This is going to be the first computer i've ever built, it will be for gaming. Due to money constraints it won't happen straight away but ultimately I want a machine thats going to be able to run 2016 games at 4k or across 3 1440p monitors. A tall order, I know, but it will happen eventually. Point is - expandability. As this is going to be my first build it's going to be a bit of a learning experience and i'm not adverse to being punished for bad cable management in the 750D which is why I don't love the PSU shroud in the H440. That and also I think EVGA's PSUs look kind cool. Another Question I have for you all: Radiators. I will be getting one of EK's AIO CPU liquid coolers, 240 or 360, depending on what you lovelies tell me here. Front mounted radiators: the general consensus (from what i've read) seems to be that they are a bad thing, because why would you want to push that hot air generated by the CPU back into the computer. My limited logic however says that same argument could be made the other way, why cool your CPU with the hot air from your PC? Further more, wouldn't you be better served cooling the CPU with dat phresh room temp air? The reason I want to go front mounted is because EK's radiators are thick and i'd be able to run a push/pull configuration in a 750D with a 240mm rad, and I think (H440 owners pleas confirm this for me, I know you'd be able to do it, but would there be GPU length issues?) a 360 in the front of the H440 in push/pull config. Also for the 750D owners; can you have a rad in the front and still get both fans in the bottom where the drive cages would go? A lot of you will ask if I want to air or liquid cool, as stated, 50/50. I'll be liquid cooling the CPU initially, and would love at some point to expand and liquid cool my GPU but being that this is my first build, i'm keeping it relatively simple. I'm open to everyone suggesting cases other than these two! I just love how clean these cases are. Thanks guys! Can't wait to hear back. Buying my case next week and this decision has been driving me insane.
  13. So, this is my very first post, and not even in my native language... so please be kind What is this about? As you may guess, it's an illumination modification from the standard Razer's acid-green to a IR controlled RGB led stripe, on the NZXT H440 case. (Actually, it looks better than the photo... damn cellphone's cameras) How difficult is this mod for me to perform? Well, OCD aside, it's quite simple. That, of course, depending on how much time and effort you wanna put onto it. How much does it cost? Around US$ 30/40 (assuming you already have all the tools) What do I need to perform it? 12V RGB LED Stripe (duh), 2 or 3 m IR LED controller Precision wire cutter Knife or Cutter Phillip screwdriver (N°1 will do) Soldering iron Tin (I recommend a 0.8 mm diameter) Thermal-shrink tubes (for about 2mm, 5mm and 10mm final contraction) 5m of 22 or 24 AWG wire (an ethernet patchcord CAT 5e or 6 will do) Zip ties, electrical tape, wire ties (optional). Glue gun (optional) OK, lets get started... BEFORE ANYTHING Think! Visualize what you want, then draw it on a piece of paper, a nap, or whatever you have in order to calculate wire longitudes, paths and final layout. Even better, surf the web for ideas, past experiences from other users, and tips and recommendations. When you're on unexplored waters, you definitely want to have a compass... or a great amount of faith Also, make sure your workplace is wide and tidy, I can't tell you how much annoying is to lose a precision alignment or a critical soldering because you just don't want to stack away something that blocks your angle or visual. (yep, it doesn't matter how ugly you draw it, as long as you make a clear work route) Remember that the wires lengths should keep a fair amount of gain (this is: a + 10/20% of length of your base calculation) for those places where the original "diagonal-direct path" have several centimeters less that the "go neat and tidy by this path, and then over here, here and here...". If you have no trouble in cable's supply, let the maximum calculated length be the limit... and even, add a 20% more of length just in case (yep, better more than less). Of course, the stock lights need to be put aside. For the bottom ones, they are fixed by a couple of screws that holds the enclosure. Not a challenge... The side and front logo? Keep reading! And so, it begins Ok, so according to your mental blueprint, you should measure each stripe and cut it by the dotted line, followed by stripping the insulation (in case you have a water-proof stripe). A great explanation for it, as a guide in general, is provided by M-L on this post, and this images. (Always measure the length of each stripe to be LESS than the housing where you're going to use it. Remember that any cut made beyond the soldering copper, will leave the RGB LEDs inoperative) Remember that each stripe should be daisy-chained in a linear fashion, that eventually ends in a 4 pin connector that hooks up onto the RGB controller. In my case, I used the 3 pin fan hub to concentrate all the "circuits" of light, and then on the 4th pin (the +12V one), twisted all together and insulate it properly. Make sure you use the same colors in the order established by the LED stripe, or some circuits will light up different colors than expected. (Order is fundamental, take notes of every "convention" you use and stick to it, no matter what you read or what someone tells you) Also, take your time to insulate the connections properly, don't forget that this is an electric connection directly powered by your PSU (more of this later), you DON'T want a short circuit of any kind. You can accomplish this by using thermal shrink tubes of different sizes (according to the weight of your wire), electrical tape, or even a glue gun. Proper insulation is fundamental, this is an ELECTRICAL MOD (And YES, a heat gun would have been a better choice...) The PSU Shroud The first major mod will have place on Razer's logo, both on the side within the PSU shroud, and the front main logo. Regarding the side panel, the whole side panel is held by several metal "tongues", which you must straighten so the plate gets free. Once outside, four screws hold the inner case where the green light is housed. (The side panel comes out with little effort... not so the green layer of paint) Once there, comes the most hateful of all parts: removing the green layer of paint that covers the acrylic panel from the logo. (SPOILER ALERT: it won't look good) (I wish someone had told me "Dude, just DON'T") At first I tried with a pointed tweezers, but then I found that a small torx screwdriver fitted better. You may find useful whatever tool you have, as long as the job is done. Keep in mind that an inner bevel help you a little bit by letting the tool "travel" along the groove. I have no idea if a dremel drill tool with a small point could make this less hateful, but if you have one to try and come back with your expertise, BE MY GUEST. (It keeps getting worse) Anyway, no matter what I used, it was an awful experience. The type of material was a kind of synthetic paint that, even with care and patience, it peeled off and cracked it beyond the logo lines... man, I hated myself, at NZXT, and even Min-Liang Tan. You may think that the same goal could be achieved by using some kind of black tape, or even a plastic cover... but no, green-vomit paint will be. The partial solution when the cracks spread out too much, is to paint it back with a black sharpie the borders above the bevel and the inner snake pattern. Hopefully, this will make a little less horrible the final product. In any case, the final outcome will be camouflaged by the light, making this a little more hopeful... unless you get to look at it at 1 feet away (Same kind of Death was encountered at front logo) The next step will be attaching the light strips so most part of the logo gets covered. All this, aligned the most centered you can, in order to avoid light diffusion problems or unexpected shadows. Keep in mind the screw holes, and the subtle elevation that the cover has on that side of the plastic (inevitable if you want that the lights be at center respect to the logo). I even had to peel off the inner sides of the screws holes so the lights fits in properly. (Daisy-chain in a way that the cables don't make too much bump) Find the most suitable path for the cables to get out of the enclosure, in a way that they don't cause congestion and generate problems when closing the cover. Help you out by using some tape that sticks the stripes and cables to the desired position. Zip ties here won't help, since the inner space of the enclosure won't let you use them... (also, they won't help you on fix the movement. Maybe a glue gun?) The Front Logo Now, regarding the front logo: obviously it's on the front panel, and the enclosure is behind the acoustical absorption foam. This foam, of course, it's glued to the panel. Not that it's impossible to remove, but it does get difficult when the glue tears apart with the foam included. (Go easy on the foam, use your fingers by lifting it enough so the cutter goes smoothly) Make your way until the front logo panel it's at hand. Then, use the same technique used on side logo by keeping in mind the small increment on size (you'll need 5 stripes instead of 3 for full cover). (Once again, daisy-chain several stripes to cover almost every corner of the logo) When you get the stripes presented and glued/fixed/taped/whatever on position, go backwards and re-glue the foam. (Make sure you cover nicely the surface of the foam) The final step with this cover will be to glue a stripe along the mesh. I separated a couple of cm from the edge so that the light can get inside the case (at that height, the fan's stand won't cast a shadow from the lights) (Choose the side where the cables will go down so that matches with your hub location... or at least, the most shorter path) REMEMBER: the front and top panel needs additional cable length in order to give you the ability to move them and rearrange the front/top fans if needed. Except if you use a 4 pin connector between the case and the panel, you'll need approx. 20/30 cm of "loose" cable. (when closed, this cable length goes inside without zip ties). 20160119_175242000_iOS.MOV The logo won't be perfect, but at distance it's acceptable. Top Panel Just as the front panel, glue a stripe along the mesh a couple of cm of the edge, and leave enough cable for later management. (Nope, no picture of top panel... but take a look at my gorgeous cat!) Under Motherboard First step is obvious: take note of the size of your motherboard and cut the stripes accordingly. In my case, an ATX form factor takes about 2 by 4 stripes and 1 by 5. Take a look again of where are you going to connect the cables, and daisy-chain the stripes respecting that layout. The inner frame from the standoff screws gives you the path for the stripes. In this case, I found that for an inner glow that stands out without pumping out too much bright, I should follow the standoffs for the mobo, following the inner frame. At that instance, the light will come out as decoration and not so much as illumination. 20160125_174627000_iOS.MOV More or less, the MOBO light effect. Backplate light You'll need to remove the leds stands that are on the backplate, so that you can stick a single stripe onto it. The only precaution here will be that the width of that plate makes it very difficult to manage the cables to go smoothly and won't let you work comfortably. Once again, take note of the insulation of the tips of the stripes! Check the image above, I even had to cut one side of the stripe contacts so that fits in the plate. This won't affect the RBG leds since the cut it's at the end of the copper contact, and wont' brake any circuits paths. For the cable management, you may find that the narrow opening between the plate's folds won't be enough, but with patience and fitting one cable at a time, you'll make them bend over it. The On/Off light switch Originally, this case has a global on/off switch for ALL the lights on the case, but since the RGB controller can be turned off by the remote, I thought in using the switch for a A/B light configuration. The light switch has two modes for operation, not just an "on/off" capability. Again, since you have previously invested an amount of time to think the lights and circuits of lights on the case (recall the BEFORE ANYTHING part of this post), at this point you should have an A circuit and a B circuit. What I've done is give at the A circuit an "always on" state (no matter the switch position, as long as the RGB controller it's ON, the lights will be ON), and give at the B circuit a "conditional state" that depends on the switch (the lights will only turn ON if both the RGB controller and the switch are ON). What this allows me to do, is that if I feel like I don't want too much bright from the lights or just WHATEVER, I can simply switch it off and be happy In order to do this, you'll need a tester to figure out which pins close, which ones open, and where are the common ones. For this model, the pinout for the switch is as follows: The switch allows you to command two states and two circuits. So 2 combinations can be made by the "on/off" capability. In my configuration, I only use one side of the switch (and only the "on" state). So when I turn it ON, all the lights pop up, but OFF will leave the logos and under MOBO circuit. In other words, the "common" pin goes to the +12V on the led strip and the "on" pin goes to the +12V from the PSU. Final lap! You've come a long way down, and now it's time to put all the pieces together. If you done this in a orderly fashion, all the cable management will be neat and tidy, and all the led cables will be concentrated on the "fan hub", leaving the 4th pin (the +12V) all around the hub. The next step will be to "grab" the +12V rail from a molex connector. Remember this pinout to identify it (no worries if you fail and connect it on the +5V like I did... it just won't light up and you then will realize it ). When done, you'll be finally over with all the soldering, zipping, taping and blah and, cable more or less, end up with something like this: Final outcome (opposite to window-side) Nope, nothing to describe here... just showing off (Window-side) Only thing to take note here is the IR receiver from the RGB controller. Since the length of the cable is quite short, you'll need to secure this little box to the bottom panel, and use the hole for the bottom lights to slide in the receiver. Since the receiver it's quite directional, you'll need to slide it out just enough for it to be seen at sight. Chroma, completed! Congratulations! Now you have a custom made RGB controlled case! You can also buy an RGB controlled keyboard and mouse to complete the scheme, and even RGB light bulbs, and since you are onto rainbows, AN UNICORN! But, whatever the choice you made, now you can set your lighting scheme according to your mood! Enjoy, and remember: maybe one day this will be an official product and sold by hundreds of dollars more! Now, some photos of the case! Yeah!!! Purple theme Orange (again: damn cellphone cameras) And even the Razer's Acid Green And full bright power from white combination. 20160212_005256000_iOS.MOV Video Show!
  14. I am looking to set up a water cooling loop in my NZXT H440, I am planning to have the base unit be the Swiftech H320 x2 (320mm radiator) mounted in the top, and the left over 240mm radiator I have from my Raijintek Triton (the reservoir cracked). I was wondering if this set up would fit or if I would need to go with something smaller like the Swiftech H240 x2. Help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks
  15. I'm not completely happy with the temperatures in my H440, so I've been thinking about adding some intake fans on the back side panel. I believe that this would somewhat improve the ambient temperature in the case because I have a 420 radiator on the front intake, so all the air intake goes through a radiator. Of course the easiest solution would be to buy a new case with better airflow, but I really like this case so why not just mod it? I'm going to have to replace the NZXT logo panel at some point, which will require me to disassemble some of the system anyways, so I might do the mod while I'm in there. My plan is very simple: I'll saw a hole for two or three 120mm fans on the side panel right where the hard drive cages used to be. I removed all of them because I don't need them. I've test fitted and measured that standard sized(25mm thick) 120mm fans will fit there. Instead of screwing the fans on the side panel, I might screw them on the side of the motherboard tray, next to the cable routing holes. This will make removing the side panel and future maintenance much easier. I'll add a simple magnetic fan filter on the outside of the side panel. This should keep the dust away. The fan filter should make a tight seal against the side panel especially if there will be no screws next to the holes. And cleaning will be easy. What do you guys think, is it worth doing? I'll post pics here when and if I start modding.
  16. Hi All, I'm just replacing the stock fans in my H440 case to the new Corsair ML120mm, wondering if I should plug them into the included fan hub or if I should go directly to the mobo? I think if I plug all the fans directly into the fan hub then the fan hub's PWM cable into the mobo that the mobo will still control the fan speed still but I think they all get controlled as 1 unit so all the same speed and not individually. If I route all the fans PWM cables straight to individual PWM connectors on the mobo then the mobo should be able to control each fan individually right? So I'm thinking doing them all separately to chassis connectors would be best?
  17. I was looking into NZXT's H440 and I was wondering if I would be able to mount a 12" LED strip along the top of the side panel frame. If anyone has the case and thinks it would fit or thinks of a better place to put it please tell me. The build I am hoping to put in it is posted here. Thanks to anyone who replies.
  18. Hey everyone, does anyone know a Desktop Case that is silent, yet isn't either an NZXT H440 or a Fractal Design Define R5. My budget is around 100$/€. Please help, i have had an eye on the be quiet! Silent Base 600, but i heard that it isn't even that silent. Thanks.
  19. So I have a probably very simple to answer question here. I'm using the razer h440 case by NZXT and I am also using the h100i v2 by corsair. I have the fan hub plugged into my cpu fan header and the h100i cable plugged into the cpu slot on the hub. I assume this isn't correct as all fans will run the same speed determined by the cpu and I cannot control the fan speeds. Where should this hub be plugged into?
  20. Hi everyone! I'm putting together a build for myself and all the parts are chosen. The main components are: Intel i7 6700k CPU (H110i GTX cooling) Asus Z170 Deluxe MoBo Corsair Dominator Platinum 32GB DDR4 RAM Gigabyte GTX980 Ti 6GB VC Corsair RM650 PSU 240GB SSD, 2TB HDD (already have plenty of external storage) Now all that's left to choose is the case. I'm looking for something stylish and so went to NZXT. Spotted the H440 which looks fantastic but my concern with it is that ventilation is compromised. I've studied it as best I can online and it looks like there are vents on the side and top which could be problematic. Given the power and the fact there are 2x RADS (240mm for CPU, 120mm(?) for VC's cooler, I'm worried I may stress my rig. Same applies to their S340 I think it is. As an alternative, I've looked at the NZXT Phantom 530 but that side fan really spoils it. I also stumbled on the Graphite 760t from Corsair, but I can't quite decide if I like it or not. So far, it's growing on me but I was hoping you guys could tell me: A) If there are adequate airflow provisions in the H440 B) Alternative white-themed cases which do provide good airflow. Thanks!
  21. Hey, I have a NZXT H440 Black/Red, and wondering is there a way to controller the Fan Controller in the back of the H440? I am running 6 fans including the Corsair H100i GTX, (ALL SP120s and AF140). What do i need to do to Control the Fan Controller in the Back?
  22. hey everyone! So I got a h100i GTX a few days ago, along with my new h440 I am super happy with the cooling, it does an amazing job keeping my fx 8320 cool. My idle temps are under 40 C. so I know what it is displaying is inaccurate but it typically shows between 25-35 C. Anyhow my only gripe with the h100i is how noisy it is. I set the fans and pump to quiet mode which doesnt seem to do anything? It seems to ramp down the fans and pump when it feels like it and then its super quiet. but most of the time I can hear it stupidly loud even with my hyperx cloud headset on! Im just wondering if there is a way to make it quieter? I dont mind sacrificing a little cooling since my cores barely go over 45 under every day load.. prime95 only puts them up to about 57 or so.. Thanks Oxygen Edit: Corsair link has been glitchy with me too, I have to restart the software to get it to change things.. as example to change the LED color I have to change the sliders, then exit out of link completely and then start it again for the LED's to change color
  23. Hello. Are the temperatures in NZXT H440 going to be good even when overclocking 2 aftermarket GPUs in SLI ?? ( If not tell me what to do to make it cool or change the case if needed ) <-- the biggest question since i want my GPUs to be cool or not to be fried. I am also going to overclock the RAM and CPU. http://pcpartpicker.com/p/W4QxkL Thank you very much for replying.
  24. Hello, I was looking around for finding an acrylic side window for my H440 case since the plastic one that it comes with is getting scratched easily even when I clean it with a microfiber cloth. I found this one: http://mnpctech.com/nzxt-h440-s340-razer-replacement-custom-window-smoked-clear-red-uv-green-blue/clear-replacement-window-for-nzxt-h440-cases.html But I've never heard of http://mnpctech.com/is it legit? anyone else have experience with them?
  25. hello everyone, I'd like your opinion on this build: http://tweakers.net/gallery/564442#tab:wenslijst (it's in Dutch, sorry for that =D) price: €1240,- at the moment of posting. - Embolus99
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