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Found 55 results

  1. swiftech h220 pump

    Hello everyone! My litle brother was done with his old rig so he left me a swiftech h220. So i took it cleaned it and put it in an old rig i have laying around. I turned it on and there it was 'pssssss' white smoke, The black wire burned. ive never used watercooling before but understand the basics, so yes it was filled etc. now for the Question part: The rad of the 220 is pretty good i read, so i wanne re-use it. can i use the cpu block of the 220 (maybe clear the rotor/magnet out and put a pump to it? ow and any recomendations on what pump to get for it? (pref cheap but decent) Thanks in advance!
  2. This bit is context, skip to second paragraph for question. So i've always had a wanting to make a custom loop for my ncase system, but due to my lack of overall knowledge and how cheap i am, plus asthetics, i never got around to it. Skip to now, i had looked into the ekwb predator expandable aio, and just adding a block to my gpu as well sounded like a relatively cheap and easy idea. That went to hell when i found out it would only fit if i bent the ncase a bit (NOOOOOOO). So finally i came across the swiftech h220. It fits according to the specs, but thats all i seem to know. With the h220 I need to know 2 things, the first is, if i added a gpu block, would the pump be able to handle it without trouble. Secondly, how would that affect the temps knowing I want to keep the fan rpm's low (this is all about lower temps and being quieter) *NOTE* this is the original h220, not the 220x or etc.
  3. Hello, My friend has a H220, but the tubes are too long, as on most H220's. He would like to know if he could replace the tubing with hardline 10/16mm, or if that would not work with the included barbs on the H220 ( if not, then I'l just shorten the tubing for him ) Thanks !
  4. Hello people. I am basically going to just come out and say that this cooler is annoying AF! Allow me to elaborate: Sometimes when i coldboot my pc the pump wont start up. Cooking my 5930k. (i have checked all connectors thoroughly and everything is in OK. Also i have a p2 1200w psu so i should be fine with power) Generally the pump has an annoying whine to it. mine has not gotten to this guys stage yet but the next step for the horseshit pump is this or death.(video below) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WVr_pt5XucM I do not own this video. Nightmare2993 Has the rights to it and i am purely using it as an example. Lastly even though the pump can be DC controlled i would have it set on an rpm profile it would ignore some times. for example it would run at full speed with all of the lovely whine as well. i would have to manually choose the profile again for it to ramp back down. I do not even trust to add a potato to this loop in the near future let alone a titan x. The pumps in swiftechs products are just purely shitty and they need to do something about it rather than just adding an X to the end of a previous model and throwing some f**king lights on it. Do not buy this product. 9/10 you will receive a defective product with their shitty pump. BUY AN AIO OR DO A CUSTOM LOOP!! - Pasha786
  5. Swiftech H220-X

    NCIX: http://bit.ly/1ulBlaG Amazon: http://geni.us/228P Check out our review of the SwiftTech H220-X. Is this all-in-one watercooling solution the first to truly rival a DIY loop?
  6. Hello, I recently got my H220 back from swiftech , just put it in my system to find it being UNBEARABLY noisy . I plugged it in a PWM header on my X99s SLI PLUS , and bought it to it's lowest RPM ( 1680-1720 rpm ) . At these speeds , it's acceptable ( equivalent or a bit noisier than my H55 and liqtech 240) , but not silent like the reviews state , but it's the fact that as soon as I go above 25% , it becomes very loud with a whiny sound ( 50 , 75 and 100% ) Running it at 25% is fine for the moment , but I have a 360mm rad and a R9 290 block coming and I doubt 1700 rpm will be enough . Does this sound like a defect ( a nother rma would really be a pain ) ? Is it normal that at 50% ( 2200rpm ) it's really noisy with a small "brrr" noise from the pump ? thanks
  7. Yesterday disaster has struck, my computer was on but unused at the time when there was a series of loud pops, the monitor went blank and suddenly there was smoke coming out of the top of my case. I quickly unplugged the computer and took it outside. There I have learned that it wasn't my entire computer on fire, in fact I could not really spot the problem. I was searching for dead, blown capacitors but i couldn't find any. Only after some searching I have found the source of the smoke, and the smell. There were signs of damage around the cpu socket, the cpu cooler my H220 was also destroyed. ​The place on the pump block where the wires hook up to it, the pump has "exploded". The wires were bare and the outside with their rubber coating melted away. The unit has also seemed to have spat out an amount of fused together metal and melted plastic, coating and sticking to my ram, as well as coating the area between the cpu socket and the ram with fine metal filings, powder. I have contacted swiftech because I thought that the H220 pump was the one that caused the problem was my cpu cooler, however after further investigation and some emails back and fort, I was told that there is no way the pump would have "spat' out all of that metal. They suggested it is the capacitor that blew. With their help I have found that my motherboard has some damages too, (I guess) and I was told to turn to corsair to get my system replaced. I was toldt it seems like a cascading power surge has fried all components inside. i don't know what would still function, and I am unable to test all of my other parts individually, and I don't want to risk damaging my other PC. What are your opinions on the matter? is it really a pwoer surge that would cause thses issues? Does that capacitor look blown to you guys? How would I go about, is it safe to test the parts from this system in another one?
  8. My Arc Midi R2 Build

    Hi, I just want to share with you guys my Build: My Rig: - i5 3570K @ 4.7ghz (1.25v) - Asrock Z77 Extreme4 - Avexir 8gb 2400mhz Blue Led - Swiftech H220 @ Bequiet! Silentwings * 4 + BlackIce SR-1 120mm @ Bequiet! Silentwings * 2 - XFX HD7950 DD Black Edition @ Alphacool Nexxxos 7970/50 Series V2 - Sapphire HD7950 OC Flex with Boost - Asus Xonar Essence STX - Intel 330 180Gb - Fractal Design Arc Midi R2 - Zalman ZM-MFC 3 Controller - Extension Sleeved 24Pin, 8pin CPU, 6/2 pin GPU * 2 and molex for sound card (by Arkangel, Portuguese Modder) - Logitech Driving Force GT - Steelseries Siberia V2 Black - Logitech G400 - Steelseries QCK - White Led Strip (made by me) - Benq 2420TX That's it ;) Before: After: Hope you like it because I do :D
  9. UPDATE: Replacement Siwftech H220 has ALSO failed. Pump failure was the cuase, but this time, in a less "chaotic" way. Well...I received my Swiftech H220 from NCIX last week. I Performed a full inspection on the exterior of the unit - all checked out okay, other then a few minor bent radiator fins. Installed the unit into my system today, and approximately after 20 minutes of operation, white electrical smoke started to emerge from the 4-pin PWM connection that comes out from the CPU water block / pump. Powered the system down IMMEDIATELY by pressing and holding the power button on my computer. Thankfully I was standing right beside my computer. Inspected the unit and saw part of the insulation on the 4-pin PWN connector is melted, and a bit of the black plastic on the block itself (near the connector) is burnt / melted. The CPU water block / pump was quite warm to the touch. I don't even know what to say. Quite literally less than 30 minutes of operation. I'm actually shocked that this happened. I've installed the unit according to the instruction booklet provided with the H220 unit, AND referred to the instructional videos on Swiftech's website. Additionally, I checked the BIOS to make sure the pump was being controlled via PWM. After clearing the smoke from my house (smell is still lingering), I began to do some research. This seems to be a common issue with the H220 - premature pump failure. I noticed a bit of what seemed like the sound of water rushing through when I was handling the H220. I'm beginning to assume the kit was not completely filled with liquid from the factory, and there were air bubbles in the loop. As a result, the air might of gotten trapped at the pump and made it operate dry, causing this failure to occur. I've already started an RMA with my retailer, NCIX, hopefully some-what better news will come back from them and/or Swiftech. Was thinking Swiftech, a company known for their liquid cooling products, and the concept of an expandable liquid cooling All-In-One kit...being able to overclock my FX-8350 further than 4.8GHz, hopefully into the 5GHz zone...and stay cool during the summer temperatures...just...I don't know what to say.
  10. Sorry to disappoint you, but yes it is! I'm moving out of my mITX case and going to mATX. Parts to recycle: i5 4670k ASUS GTX 780 DC2 16GB Crucial Ballistix Sport VLP (for now) Samsung 840 Evo 250gb Seagate Barracuda 3TB Corsair TX750M Swiftech H220 (which I had from an older build) Possible shoppinglist/orderlist: Regular Hardware: Corsair Obsidian 350D ASUS Maximus VII Gene 5x Corsair Air Series SP120 PWM High Performance Sleevingstuff: Sleeve SMALL - BLACK 10m x2 Sleeve SMALL - RED 10m x2 Pre-Cut Heatshrink SMALL - ANTHRACITE x3 Heatshrink SATA - ANTHRACITE Sleeve SATA - RED Watercoolingstuff: EK-CoolStream RAD XTX 240 EK-FC780 GTX Ti DCII - Nickel Original CSQ EK-FC780 GTX DCII Backplate - Black Alphacool HF Screw connector G1/4OD 10mm (3/8 ID - 5/8 OD) - Deep Black 17087 x4 PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT 3/8 ID - 5/8 OD - Crystal Clear - 3m Feser One Cooling Fluid - UV RED x2 So this is what I want to order. Want to run the WC-parts from the Swiftech H220 pump (so an extra RAD + GTX 780 for now). What do you guys think? There are a ton of RADs and fittings available, but this is what I chose.
  11. Hey Guys, Maybe planning on buying an Asus Maximus VI Hero so I can watercool the board with these components: I want to do this with a Swiftech H220 and I wonder if the pump will be OK cooling these two and the CPU. Would it be possible to add my Asus GTX780 to this loop as well or is this too much for the pump? Changed the demands up and posted this: Changed it up and gonna run my i5 4670k and GTX 780 off this swiftech pump. Do I need to install another rad into the loop for both to be cool? If I want to add another GTX 780 in the future, will the swiftech still be enough? Not that it would stop me for now.
  12. So I have the buzzing issue with my Swiftech H220, and I was wondering how people were able to fix it. I think it's just air trapped in my pump, but I'm not entirely sure. I tried all the remedies suggested by Swiftech and they didn't work, so I requested an RMA. They basically told me to screw off and deal with it as it is "normal" and should operate like this. But, it is VERY loud and clearly audible, even with headphones on. Clearly, it shouldn't be like this. So does anyone have a way to fix this? I'm really upset with how their customer service is and how the unit is behaving. I was expecting great things, and then I got this. As a side note, are ~70C temps under full load with a 4770k 4.3Ghz 1.26v normal? Or do they seem a bit high? I was expecting them to be a bit lower.
  13. This is a strange one. So, Swiftech are having a sale on their MCR-H220 Radiator. It's the radiator and fans off of an H220. Sounds like a strange prospect. They are being sold as-is, and anyone looking to save a bit on their watercooling loop or looking to expand their H220 can take advantage of this. Remember, you get a 240mm radiator for $39.99 along with fans. From Swiftech themselves. The deal exists while supplies last only though. More information can be found on the product page. The original price is, according to the Swiftech website, $71.34 http://www.swiftech.com/MCR-H220-RADIATOR.aspx
  14. Last night I installed the CM Glacer 240L in my 900D with four Corsair SP120 (The High Performance Ones) hooked into one of the NZXT Fan Hubs (So no PWM fan control, even if the fans had four pins.) with the low voltage adapters on all of them. The cooler itself is perfectly fine so far, however the noise is unbearable... and I'm not horribly picky about noise levels. So, I'm not sure if it's something like fan/case vibration or if the fans are really just that loud, but when I unplug the fan hub and then boot the system for around fifteen seconds, it's nearly silent (or at the very least comparable to the noise level of my system prior to the LCS) with just the pump running. Anyway, I guess my question is this: How do I go about dampening the noise from these fans? At idle, the noise level is around 50-55 dB, and the room's natural ambient noise falls around 30-40 dB. Currently, the only thing I can think of is to pick up some rubber grommets or a fan silencer. Also, If it matters at all, the fans are currently only being held in by two screws on each fan in a criss-cross pattern.
  15. So I have my Swiftech H220 cooling system, and the pump is buzzing a lot. So I tried doing what they said, and adding about 3 drops of dish soap to my reservoir. Now there looks like there is a bit of room to top of my reservoir, but I am out of coolant/distilled water. How bad would it be to just top it off with tap water? It's not a lot that I need to fill, but there is some room for more water.
  16. So I just got my Swiftech H220, and I am dialing in my OC. Right now, Intel Extreme Tuning is running, and my CPU seems to be stable at 4.3Ghz with 1.2 volts. How good is my chip? Slightly below average? What are somethings I can try to get my clock higher? I don't wanna go too much above 1.2 volts, because I am sitting right at 60 degrees. Should I just be happy with 4.3Ghz at 1.2 volts?
  17. So I just bought a used Swiftech H220, and the pump is very loud in the low RPMs. I am thinking it may be air stuck in the pump because the package was sitting in 90 degree heat today while I was at school. But anywho, this loud noise is only audible at low RPMs, so I am wondering how can I lock in my pump to just always run at 2700 RPM? I have monitored my pump speed, and under 100% load, this is what my pump gets to, and it is dead silent at this speed suprisingly. But, because it gets to this at 100% load, I know there won't be any issues with the pump not going high enough to cool the CPU, because that is what the pump peaks at anyways. I am running a Gigabyte motherboard, so if anyone knows a setting in the BIOS to lock it into 2700 RPM, or an application that will let me do this, that would be great :3
  18. Cooler Master, with partnership and help from minds like Swiftech, has released an AIO which is fully customizable, just like the H220. This new cooler is specifically made for the US as the Asetek v. Swiftech ordeal with pantents. This AIO is fully capable of supporting more water cooling components as it is not fully sealed. @Ghost , your thoughts? Source: techpowerup.com SPECS: Official Product Page given by @IsaaX : http://www.coolermaster-usa.com/product.php?product_id=10101&product_name=Glacer%20240L Info Given by @Phelan : From Swiftech's Website: Available now! http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103196 Thanks to @IsaaX we have further information of the cooler itself According to him and what the picture shows, the pump is a "debadged" Swiftech pump found on H220/H320. This shows that we still are able to get the reliable and funcionality of the classic DIY AIO everyone loved! Our own forum user @IsaaX has now made a build with the cooler in this thread! As you can see the temperatures are VERY well preforming. Thanks for the share @IsaaX !
  19. Hey guys. I'm in need of a new case and i was wondering if the h220 would work in the Fractal Design Define r4 Windowed. Thanks!
  20. My Swiftech H220 finally came in. I carefully inspected the entire unit, and there didn't seem to be any issues other than very minor bent radiator fins. Copper radiators are more delicate than aluminum so it's totally understandable. Plus, Swiftech does say that having a bent fin or two is normal. I decided to do some minor work on it by carefully straightening up some of the bent copper fins with a pair of tweezers, thin sewing needles, and wooden toothpicks. After all that is said and done, I realized some of the original black paint on the radiator has come off (since they apply a thing layer anyways), exposing the copper. To me, it seems that having exposed copper is not something you want, so I wish to fix that. I'm afraid it will begin to discolour and/or oxidize as time goes by. Now, the big question is: Is it okay to use Acrylic Paint on copper? Members on the forums here suggested using a black Sharpie pen. Would that be a suitable solution as well? If I do decide to use Acrylic Paint, it will be a very thin amount - almost quite literally just touching it with the paint brush. Any tips?
  21. I know this question has probably been beaten to death already, but what would be the best AIO cooler for about 100 bucks? My case accepts double 120mm/140mm or triple 120mm/140mm. Looking to cool my i7 4770k so I can overclock to about 4.5-4.6Ghz. Mainly looking for the coolest temperature. I was looking at the Swiftech H220 because I heard it has the best performance, but does anyone else have a different recommendation?
  22. Case Suggestion

    Hey TechTips, I'm looking for a case and wanted to see if people have any recommendations. I was looking at the NZXT H440, but I figured I would see what other people have to say about cases. Only requirements are it has to be mid tower, or hold an ATX board, be able to house a 2x120mm radiator, and have a windowed side panel. I would like to try and keep it around the U.S. $120-150 mark. let me know what I should look at
  23. so, i got myself a H220 on a good deal. I know that some of their units have pump problems, but i got one anyways, but seems like mine is no exception. First off, i mounted my H220 with the reservoir down (see pictures), because it wouldn't fit the other way around (res up). Is that a problem? My temps are also pretty terrible, with 50-60 °C idle, with all fans on 100%. The only way to lower it to sub 50 °C is to turn the pump up to ~60%, which is obnoxiously loud. I have a video about the noise, but Youtube's a bitch, so no video. It's similar to this guy's H220, but not THAT crazy https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_aOg9XFnRds It's a high pitched flickering noise, and at full load the pump goes nuts! I read a lot about air bubbles getting catched inside the pump but idk what it really is. Other people wrote that their H220 was dead silent, so i am hoping for the best. I could RMA it, but i would like to put that as last option. I don't have money or space to put an extra reservoir in the loop, but i want to keep the H220 because i do plan to expand my loop with Maxwell.
  24. H220 upgrade

    Hello there I'm planning to upgrade my loop, and I don't know if the swiftech h220 pump will be enough. Currently I'm running it with the stock radiator (Noctua Fans) and the swiftech Komodo wáter block for the gtx 780. The temperaturas are fine for now (75ºC CPU, 52º GPU), but this summer the ambient may raise up, and I don't to overheat my cpu. So I think that a new radiator (240mm) and a resevoir give me space to don't overheat the system. My questions are, this makes sense ? and if the pump will deal with it ... Thanks, any answer is welcome !
  25. Hey all, Right now I am completely fed up with the pump noise I'm getting from my H220. Simply put, it's not silent enough, but the problem is not actually the pump's fault. I have the pump plugged into the Swiftech PWM splitter that came with the H220 unit, which is then plugged into my motherboard's PWM header (though I have tried plugging the pump directly to the motherboard's PWM headers). The motherboard in mind is the MSI Z77MA-G45, and it is reading the rpm of the pump at somewhere around 2500 rpm. I want to get the pump down to as low as it can get (which I believe is somewhere around 1200 rpm), but whatever tinkering I do in the BIOS and in SpeedFan comes to no avail. I am out a warranty on the motherboard and I have actually RMA's this motherboard once already for this exact issue. To isolate the issue, I have plugged the pump to a separate ASUS motherboard that I have, and I have complete control over the pump with that motherboard. Unfortunately, my current rig will not allow me to downgrade to that ASUS motherboard, and I do not want to completely overhaul this system yet, so I am looking for some way to control this 4-pin PWM pump. Does anyone know of any fan controller or any other possible solutions that I could do to drop my pump's speed? I don't think I'm savvy enough to do anything DIY, so I would prefer a complete solution, but I do realize that this is something most people don't shop for. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated. [Also as a side note, I have the rig fully enclosed in an Antec P280 (which is a "silence" oriented case) and the H220 pump is fairly audible. The rig is under a desk and about 4 feet away from my ear.]
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