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From the album: March 2014 rig
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From the album: Fractal R4
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So i have a quiestion, i just orderet an Noctua nh-d15, to replace for my cooler master h100, simple reason is that im just not a fan of AIO cooling. Are my temps gonna become higher, lower og similair? And also, it's been some years since i have last time tinkered with my PC, so in what order do i take the AIO out, water block first, or radiator. My setup: Case: NZXT H500 Motherboard: ASUS TUF Z390 PLUS GAMING Hard drive: 1TB M.2 NVMe X4 (INTEL 660P) CPU: Intel Core i9 9900KS RAM: 32GB 3000MHZ HYPERX PREDATOR GPU: ASUS RTX2080TI 11GB ROG STRIX
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- noctua nh-d15
- h100
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So i usually sit around 60 - 75c, monitoring with HW monitor (this is while gaming) Wicther 3, Warzone etc. Ultra settings) sometimes i see spikes that have hit up to 90c, is this normal, and why do they happen? Case: NZXT H500 Motherboard: ASUS TUF Z390 PLUS GAMING Hard drive: 1TB M.2 NVMe X4 (INTEL 660P) CPU: Intel Core i9 9900KS CPU AIO: Corsair H100 RAM: 32GB 3000MHZ HYPERX PREDATOR GPU: ASUS RTX2080TI 11GB ROG STRIX
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My old Corsair H100 all-in-one liquid cooler was reaching it's limits with the I7 3970X running at 4.6 GHz, so I decided it's time to cool my cpu proper I've had my R9 290s under water with 480 mm radiator for a couple of years (did that one pretty quick lol), but the cpu has always been in it's own loop with H100. I had I7 3820 before for a long time (ran it @4,3 GHz), but recently I swapped it to an old 3970X from ebay. This thing is power hungry on a complete different level. While the H100 certainly could cool it, I decided to finally add the cpu to the existing loop (and about time, I had 4x 10/16mm fittings lying in a box reserved for the additional radiator and cpu block to come for almost two years). So I also added a 360 mm radiator to the loop while I was at it. Sandy Bridge Extreme series processor still have soldered ihs and I read online the H100 flow rate really wasn't much to write home about (you could feel the inlet side of the radiator be much hotter than the outlet), so I was expecting some results. For reference, here's an old pic of the PC with H100: And here's now (I'm still leak testing so the side panel is off - I just completed putting it together and ran the tests): So here are relevant setup details: Old cooling setup: I7 3970X @ 4.6 GHz, Vcore ~ 1.37 V (offset mode, so voltage and clocks go down in idle) CPU cooling: Corsair H100, push/pull with 4x noctua fans Tim: GC- Extreme GPUs in their separate loop New: I7 3970X @ 4.6 GHz, Vcore ~ 1.37 V (offset mode, so voltage and clocks go down in idle) Radiators: 360mm (3x noctua fans pull) + 480 mm (4x Alphacool NB-eLoop 1200rpm push) Pump: EK-5D Vario (X- RES 100) CPU block: Alphacool NexXxoS XP³ Light - Acetal Tim: GC- Extreme (GPU blocks: EK-FC R9-290X - Acetal+Nickel (Rev.2.0)) Loop in series: pump -> GPU2 -> GPU1 -> 360mm -> 480mm -> CPU -> pump, tubing ~ 3m *added a Noctua fan to blow at the back side of the cpu socket (to provide more cooling to the backside vrms on the motherboard) Rest: I ran three tests on both setups: 1. Idle at desktop (system has been heated up and running at least 30 min before the test) 2. Blender (2.78.0 latest build) BMW 3D rendering benchmark scene (realistic 100% load on the cpu) 3. Prime95 (28.10) AVX small FFT (maximum CPU heat and power) In all cases the room ambient temperature was 21 C and all test were ran with fans and pump at full speed (to keep things simple for this). Crapload of data was logged with Corsair AX860i PSU and Corsair Link 4 software to spread sheets. Focus will be on CPU core temperatures and system power. Below are the temperature and power graphs from these tests. Results with H100 are first, and CL (= custom loop) follow in each test scenario. 1. System idle (mostly): H100 CPU cores avg: 30 C Custom loop CPU cores avg: 27 C PSU reported idle power is about 150 Watts in both cases (system was doing something during the jumps) 2. Blender BMW rendering benchmark scene: H100 CPU cores avg reaches: 72.5 C Custom loop CPU cores avg reaches: 49 C PSU reported power is about 400 Watts in both cases, but it starts to slightly increase with H100 to around 420 W as components heat up more. 3. Prime95 AVX small FFT: H100 CPU cores avg reaches: 83.5 C, hottest core: 88 C Custom loop CPU cores avg reaches: 57.5 C, hottest core: 62 C Things to note: H100 setup severely throttles at around 310 secs (either processor Tcase max 66.8 C is reached, or motherboard VRMs overheat) and test is soon stopped. The torture test is run longer on the custom loop while no throttling occurs. We start to see how heat affects efficiency, H100 system power: 450 Watts, custom loop: 420 Watts As a side note, the cpu seems to be pulling quite nice amps through the additional CPU power (8-pin pcie, marked yellow in the graph): So there you have it, and I'm extremely pleased with the results! And one last thing, I noticed that the CPU block contact surface was not entirely flat, but it was slightly raised in the center and edges. I considered milling it it flat, but the results are looking good, so I'll let it be I hope someone found this info interesting and if you want to share your experiences, please feel free to post below!
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Today when I went to boot up my PC, I got the following error from my motherboard before BIOS Boot from American Megatrends: CPU Fan error! I opened up the PC, made sure there was no dust in the way, that there was all connectors properly connected and made sure one hadn't came loose, and tried to boot up again however it has the same error. I went into the ASUS BIOS (as seen in the image) and it states that there is no CPU Fan speed although when I checked my H100, the fans and radiator was working fine, pulling up cold air and when I changed the speeds, the fans would spool up. However as you can see in the image, the temperature of the CPU rises up extremely high, very fast (atleast 1 degree C a second). What could the error be? I thought it could be a fault fan header, but even then the CPU should be staying cool, so it makes me think it's a cooler issue? I currently have an Asus P8Z77-V Deluxe, an i7-3700K and a Corsair H100 cooler.
- 11 replies
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- h100
- asus p8z77-v deluxe
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Hi, I am considering purchasing a new water cooler for my CPU, however, I am wondering whether my current water-cooler would fit onto my GTX 1080. Gamer-Nexus has a video showing how he builds a Hybrid GTX 1080, hence it hit me that i might be abl to use my H100i on my GTX 1080. I know a H100i is overkill on a GPU, but it would become a spare part so why not use it. So, does anyone know whether a H100i would fit/mount on a GTX 1080? Any feedback appreciated.
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I have recently bought a new graphicscard(Asus GeForce GTX 1060 Dual OC 3GB) and everything was working fine untill yesterday. Yesterday while i was playing GTA Online my computer shotdown, it happened 2 times. But i had corsair link running the 2nd time, and my CPU was over 80 degrees celsius. And i found out that it was set to shotdown at 90 degrees celsius, but after the 2nd time i changed it to 100 degrees. But this morning it shotdown again. I have a Corsair H100i, and i had it for 4 years. Now to the big question. Can the H100i have become to old and not work that good anymore?? A friend of mine think it could be the thermal paste, so i ordered some Arctic Silver 5. But do i need a new CPU cooler??
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I have a 6700k with a Notua Dh-15 cooler and my temps are great. Though I am starting to want to make my build look better. What water cooler is as silent as the noctua with the same performance if one exist. It seems to me that noctua takes the lead in all aspects but appearance
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Hey all. Just ordered mostly a new rig. Just wondering if anyone with a Fractal Define S has tried putting an original corsair H100 water cooler front-mounted in the case? I'm hoping the hoses are long enough, even if I have to put the fans inside, pushing through the rad into the case. Anyone else try it? New parts I have ordered: Zotac GTX1070 AMP! Edition Intel i7-6700K Asus Z170-E 16GB (2x8) Corsair Vengeance LPX 2400 C14 DDR4 1.2V Fractal Define S Parts I'm using from my old rig: Corsair H100 Corsair HX850w Mushkin 256GB Chronos Deluxe SSD (Going to be replaced sometime in January or February for an M.2 NVME Drive) 3x 1.5TB WD Green drives (Raid 5) (Also getting replaced within a few months)
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Push/Pull Possible In The Top Of NZXT H440?
IckleOP posted a topic in Custom Loop and Exotic Cooling
I have an NZXT H440 case and I would like to get a Corsair H100 V2 to pair with the 6600k I plan to purchase. My question is can I do a push/pull in the top of the case without the fans interfering with the top of the motherboard? I already have every fan slot filled up in my case with LED fans and I would like to be able to but the LED fans on the bottom of the rad and the SP fans it comes with on the top. I would prefer to not have to buy a seventh pack of LED fans but if I can if I must. Thanks. -
On my phone using Speech-to-Text I'm sorry for poor grammar or less than existing punctuation. The Corsair Link 4 that works with my Corsair h100i water pump and radiator seems to either be inaccurate or so accurate that it actually concerns me about the efficiency of the h100i or if I have a good ryzen 1800x. I ask this because the LED indicator on the pump itself is set to show temperatures but I'm not sure if those numbers and the software graphs are accurate or to be trusted. Green 0-20C Yellow-Orange 21C-50C Scarlet Red 51-60+C I ask because at idle it sits around 32C or yellow orange Led, Open chrome/Edge, immediately 57C and scarlet red on the pump. I know the H100i was the cheapest and not the best AIO pump and cooler but it's what I could get on short notice and not break the bank. Corsair promised in the product description that it came pre filled, but it felt light and these numbers and indicators make me think it wasn't or that the software and sensors are flat out wrong. Thoughts / ideas?
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Hi, I'm shopping around for brackets to mount something like an h100 externally. I have the corsair 200r case and you can't fit any decent size rad in it. If I do choose to mount my radiator externally, I want to mount it on top of the PC, and I want some sort of enclosure that protects the rad from damage but allows airflow of course. I've seen all in one external rads with enclosures but they're expensive as hell and come with an AIO inside. I don't want that. Anyone find anything that sounds like this?
- 4 replies
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- liquid cooling
- bracket
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Has anyone tried installing a Hydro H100i into a Carbide 200R? /\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\//\/\/\/\/\/\/\ All Corsair Items Water Cooler http://www.corsair.com/en-us/hydro-series-h110i-280mm-extreme-performance-liquid-cpu-cooler Case http://www.corsair.com/en-us/carbide-series-200r-compact-atx-case
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Hello friends, I am looking to see if anyone in the Toronto area is holding an AM4 bracket for a corsair h100 AIO cooler. Corsair seems to have sold out and has no plans of restocking and all of the Canada computers in Toronto and the surrounding area seem to be sold out. I am happy to trade anyone who has the bracket for my Intel bracket. I got the last part for the new build today minus this stupid bracket I can't seem to find anywhere expect on eBay for like $50.00 plus shipping which is half way to a brand new cooler. I've also emailed everyone selling a computer with a corsair cooler on Craigslist and Kijiji to see if they would sell me the part with no luck. Let me know if you are holding or have any suggestions of where I could find this part. Thank you, Bradley. https://www.corsair.com/ca/en/Categories/Products/Accessories-%7C-Parts/PC-Components/Cooling-And-Corsair-Link/AM4-AMD-Retention-Bracket-Kit-for-Hydro-Series™-Coolers/p/CW-8960046
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Back in 2011 I built my desktop and now I want upgrade to an 8700k. Is there anyway I can keep using my H100 even though I don't have the Intel mounting hardware anymore?
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It’s finally time for me to return to my desktop after 6 years. I haven’t had a need for one in quite some time but recently I had my own apple repair drama so it was time for my desk top to make a comeback. The last time I used my PC my GTX670, Core i7 (something)K, SSD boot drive, H100 cooler, and Sabertooth z77 motherboard. Was doing everything I needed with a little extra head room. Not so sure if it will be able to handle my current work load. I hope you guys can help me pick out a good upgrade path that won’t break the bank to much. Unfortunately I have forgotten my password from back then and I don’t have a mouse at the moment so I can’t reset it. So I will figure that out tomorrow.
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Hi all, I'm new to PC building and was able to build a system from an assortment of used and new parts. I have a Gigabyte GA0970-D3 motherboard and Corsair H100 cooler. With this combo, my CPU temps never get high at all. (Like, I'd be lucky to top 50C with a synthetic benchmark. The problem is that no matter what, my CPU fans are at 99% PWM as seen in hardware monitor (or other programs). Things I've tried: BIOS Smart fan control. Tested both with and without, and see absolutely no difference. Changing the H100's fan speed button - no difference EasyTune6 from Gigabyte - I get a "driver release to failure" and can't seem to work around it. Probably 10 hours invested in that program alone.. Installing the factory CPU cooler, same problem, max fan speed. Can I circumvent this with a manual fan controller? It's annoying to have my fans whirring at 2000 RPM all the time. FWIW, using a Phanteks P400S and Corsair SP120 fans. Thanks in advance!
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So I have a H100 and get around 35-40C when idle and the outside temperature is around 23C. I have two NF-F12 in pull config with the speed setting on the block at max (3/3). I haven't ever replaced the thermal compound on the block since it was installed which would be around late 2012 when I first built it. I also get idle temperatures on my MSI 7950 of 47C and could also replace that thermal compound while i'm at it. Do you think it would be worth it to replace the compound on my CPU block and my GPU?
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Hey guys, I did something pretty stupid... I ran my PC for a good hour just doing some web surfing WITHOUT a powered H100 pump! (The reason why it's not powered is because I played around with my molex cables whilst trying to work with IDE hard drives.) It was when my PC started feeling slow and I pulled up CoreTemp to my horror to see 103C on all CPU cores I remembered. I quickly plugged in the molex without turning the computer off and the temps plummeted to 40s but then I noticed something... My H100 is making a rattling noise a little bit like a hard drive during seek. Did I destroy my H100 pump by having boiling coolant in it for the hour? Could it be air bubbles or heat damage. Regards, YoshiHDify
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So is it just a waste to upgrade my old h100 to an h105 or h100i gtx? I would be cooling an overclocked 6700k. I like the look of the newer AIO's, but I could just do something like this http://www.overclock.net/t/1259366/covered-my-h100-tubing-works-for-all-h60-h80-h100
- 10 replies
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- aio
- water cooler
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Update: Changed the poll to reflect current things Hey all! I have some questions on how to configure fans/airflow in my PC. Maybe also what fans to get! So I'm in the process of upgrading my CM Storm Trooper-cased PC. Basically I set it together many years ago without knowing anything about building computers other than what I learned from working at an IT team for a short time. I'm an enthusiast, but with limited funds - I only upgrade when there's a reason to, and I always futureproof as much as I can with minimum maintenance needs. Right now, my case is very improperly configured. What I need to do is upgrade my cooling and fan configuration. For reference, here's my current build: Case: CM Storm Trooper (Full Tower) Motherboard: ASUS Rampage V Extreme CPU: Intel i7 5820K (Cooler: Corsair H100 with 2x 120mm radiator, default fans) GPU: 2x GTX 690 EVGA Signature in Quad SLI PSU: OCZ ZX 1250W 80+ Gold PSU Soon arriving: http://www.demcifilter.com/p0131/CM-Storm-Trooper-Dust-Filter-Kit.aspx Pictures I took when it was built: http://imgur.com/a/dvBpl Basically, I've not made much modification to the case's default layout. I've removed the big case-top fan and put the H100 radiator there. I plan to exchange my GPUs with a 980 Ti Waterforce once I can, maybe Feb-March. My silly current fan setup: It's configured so that the radiator is up against the case ceiling, and the fans are below it, pulling air downwards *into* the case. The fan in the back? Exhausts out of the case. The two HDD fans? Exhausts out of the case. In other words, I discovered that my setup is keeping the warm air in and trying to lead it out through the bottom. *facepalm* I sleep in the same room as my PC, so basically.. A noisy PC is a bad PC. The current problems I face are: Something in there (GPU fans maybe?) is loud at all times, never changes no matter what my PC is up to. No high pitch, just "VVVVV" sound, kinda loud. high temperature readings at all times Hurt pride I'd like to make my PC more silent. And powerful, which is why I'm thinking of buying a 980 Ti Waterforce for all my streaming, editing and gaming needs, putting the radiator in the back as exhaust? After watching a few videos by Linus and a few others on this subject, here's what I'm thinking of doing. Current Plan: Changing some fans into the best of the best (Silent + powerful) fans. Installing the Demciflex magnetic fan filters on all air intake/exhausts for maximum dust protection (Already ordered on ebay) Buying the 980 Ti Waterforce in a few months and using that to replace the back exhaust (Or elsewhere, if you guys recommend that) Making the H100 radiator fans exhaust up-top. Placing the radiator *below* the fans, meaning the fans are "pull" upwards? - so that it's easier to clean the radiator according to Linus' video (in the sources below), using CO2 spraybox upwards Letting the rear fan remain an exhaust, so that warm air always escapes up top, because warm air rises anyway. No need to stall it for less performance? Mount a fan in the bottom of the case for intake, preferrably as big/powerful as I can fit. Buy all the fans as PWM so I can turn down the noise when I sleep, and let them regulate naturally when I'm actually using the PC (SpeedFan?) Maybe rotate the 2x HDD fans to be front-intake. But isn't the airflow 90% restricted due to the closed-off bays? Is this inefficient? Can I 'open' them up somehow? Last resort: If not enough already, install 2 additional fans on the inside of the side-door itself. I hope I can avoid this if the alternative above is decent enough, I don't wanna tug/rip wires when opening the case. I'm hoping that letting warm air escape in the top parts (as warm air rises) should put less demand on the fan RPM to do that job, meaning quieter while remaining efficient. I'm thinking a positive air pressure might be optimal, if I can manage to draw in enough cold air from the bottom and front/side of the case. This would mean efficient cooling and less dust? And my questions are thus: Since the warm air rises, does this put less demand on pressure-optimized fans to do the Pull on top? Should I use F12, P12 or S12A? Or something else? What fans are gonna be loud, and should be replaced with Noctua (or some other brand) fans? What fans should I actually buy for these different parts? Do dust filters reduce performance/increase noise? Are static pressure better for this? etc. And lastly.. Are LinusTechTips-themed Noctua fans of the kind I need, still available for Norway? I'm hoping they don't break my bank if they are <.< I read that NF-F12 is best for static pressure, S12A is best for free airflow and P12 is basically the middle man. But here's where I get confused. I keep hearing that F12, while good for static pressure in Push configurations, may actually be less powerful for Pull configurations than the P12, or other fans that are designed for Pull on radiator. Is this accurate? I also heard that while P12 is supposed to be in the middle noise-levels, F12 seems to actually be more silent if you don't crank it up to max, despite what the specs say. People say there are "sweet spots" for every fan, and that some fans can get noisy at for example 700 RPM, but if you crank them to 900 RPM, the noise lessens. Any experiences here? I've also heard other fans are good, like Corsair SP120 and Silverstone's fans, but I have no idea. Whatever's good without costing needlessly much, is fine. I hate the colors on Noctua, but if the alternative is being broke or a louder PC, I'll take the bad colors any day - performance and function is more important than eyegasms, but if I can get both for a similar price, that's great. I'm also worried that placing a fan against the grille may induce extra noise, like Silverstone's video demonstrates. I'd like to avoid that horrible noise (Video in the sources below) at all cost. When it comes to price, I'm willing to pay "that little extra" for fans that are less noisy, if that means I have an easier time sleeping in the same room. But since PWM is a thing, I'm not sure how much it'll matter. I have very little experience with this, and since my PC is currently a constant noise generator, I don't really know how it's like to have silent fans. I'd love to sleep in a silent room. My case has a built-in fan adjustment button on the front, it adjusts the two side-fans in the chassis. Perhaps combining this with all the other fans is possible? That'd be cool. UPDATE: I've now ordered 2x Silverstone AP123 120mm PWM fans for top radiator, planning eloop B14-BS (PWM) for the back. I unfortunately realized Ap123 are not PWM after ordering, but I think there are ways to compensate for this. If my motherboard supports control for 3-pin, maybe SpeedFan can control it too? Reason I bought the AP123 is that it's going near a grille and radiator, and online it seems the others may get problems with turbulence. The german one I thought of because it's the only similar 140mm alternative, the AP141 is not engineered as well and this one has the notches on the blades + other optimizations. I just also ordered 3x Silverstone 140mm dust filter (magnetic, airflow/turbulence optimized) to put on the bottom and back of my case, might replace the case filters or even put them on in addition if this won't block airflow to much, to minimize dust. Might need them elsewhere too. Sources: Really useful Linus' video on radiators and fans (Fan cleaning) Silverstone does something others don't, reducing grille noise? (Air Penetrator video) JayzTwoCents Airflow Talk CM Storm Trooper Review (14 min 4 sec: Door fans) Pressure Discussion Read just a sentence from here: "Ideally, you will want a NF-F12 PWM on your heatsink or radiator, a NF-P12 PWM as a front intake fan in front of your hard drive cage, and a NF-S12B as a rear or top exhaust fan."
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- 980 ti
- waterforce
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I've been using a H100 to cool my FX-8350 @ stcock in a HAF X for quite a while now and I recently checked the temperatures and they were hovering at around 60 degrees while idle and 75 on full load. Is this normal for such a good cooler? I cleaned out my system a few days ago and I didn't see much of an improvement. I use some Arctic fans on the radiator which doesn't seem to react to the fan control on the H100, is this why the system runs hot? Also the air that comes out of the radiator is not very hot at all compared to what the CPU temps are. The system is about 2-3 years old.
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Greeting everyone This might sound stupid but somehow i managed to lose one of the thumb screws that come with the Corsair H100 cooler for the Intel socket. I have attached images for the same. Any idea how i can get it back or any other alternative?