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Hi everyone, first time posting on here. As the title says, my PC is constantly overheating even under the lightest CPU load. So far, I've updates all my BIOS, cleaned the PCs out as much as I could, reseated the cooler and applied a new dose of thermal paste. Any other steps are beyond me, so I would greatly appreciate any suggestions on what to do next. I've attached a screenshot of the heat situation as I am typing this out. This issue does not apply to the GPU which is sitting at around 34 right now. PC specs: Running Windows 10 Case, Cooler & Power Supply: NZXT H1 v1 (stock 650W 80+ Gold PSU, 140mm AIO Watercooler) CPU: Ryzen 5 3600XT Motherboard: ROG STRIX B550-I Ram: Corsair Vengeance 2x8GB GPU: Nvidia 2080 super Memory: 2 NVME Internal SSD 1TB + 500 MB Happy to provide any more info, just looking for solutions with minimal money expenditure.

So eventually finished my Watercooling system in the NZXT H1, Wasn't too bad Spec - Barrow Pump/Reservoir combo - LTPRPA-04 - EKWB Vector with back plate - Corsair XR5 280mm Radiator - Barrow 90 rotary fittings - Barrow 180 zigzag fittings (Radiator) - Mayhem 10/16 clear tubing - Mayhem X1 fluid - Arctic P14 fans Temps under load - 5600x - 55c - 3070FE - 60c Need to adjust the pump/fan speeds to get the best noise to cooling ratio so probably better temps soon

Budget (including currency): Priced out to about a $400-500 upgrade but I'll spend whatever it takes to get it right. Country: United States Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Dedicated gaming PC. Other details (existing parts lists, whether any peripherals are needed, what you're upgrading from, when you're going to buy, what resolution and refresh rate you want to play at, etc): I'm going out on a limb here because this is going to be a very unusual build, so I decided to join the forum to see if I could get some good advice. Long story short, I have an NZXT H1 with a 5600X and a 2070 Super, and I just won the best buy click-game on friday to get my hands on a 3090 founder's edition (At MSRP!). The H1 is notoriously hot for a 3080, and the 3090 doesn't even fit in it. But rather than buying a new SFF case, I want to try my hand at watercooling the 3090 in a custom loop. The parts: Relevant parts for this build: NZXT 3D Printed 2x140mm Fan Bracket. The guy who was selling these on Etsy is no longer doing it, but I bought one a year ago or so and have been using it with 2 noctua fans. It uses standard 280mm fan mounting screw holes, so I plan to use a 280mm slim radiator with standard screws and attach it to the rear of the case. reddit.com/r/sffpc/comments/ieto7d/nzxt_h1_mod_3d_printed_back_panel_for_exhaust/ The picture in the reddit post is what I'm using exactly, except instead of split into 2 pieces, it's 1 large 280mm single unit. The gap at the bottom is where the radiator tubing can go into the PC. Barrow Pump+Res+Block Combo https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001325362641.html I have a concern with this block's size (85mm). The ITX/TB3 motherboard that the H1 AIO is installed in currently has basically 0 clearance by the ram, and that is an 80mm tall block. To make this block work, could I rotate it 90 degrees (so that the reservoir is along the side, rather than the top) and still have it be safe to use? Alternatively, since I have the Radiator at the top of the loop, is it safe for me to actually go without a reservior and just get a radiator that includes a fill port? I'm not above swapping the motherboard out either, I can probably sell the ITX/TB3 for a new B550 board for under a $50 difference. An upgraded PSU (750W? 850W?) I'm looking for an SFX PSU that can handle a 3090 and a 5600X, unless you think that the 650W PSU in the H1 is sufficient. I'll be re-using NZXT's custom cables. https://www.newegg.com/corsair-sf750-cp-9020186-na-750w/p/N82E16817139080?quicklink=true Corsair XG7 RTX 3090 FE WB This one is out of stock, but is there another good WB that's in stock? All of the ones at EK are also out of stock and only special editions. They don't list a non-special edition block. https://www.corsair.com/us/en/Categories/Products/Custom-Cooling/Blocks/GPU-Blocks/Hydro-X-Series-XG7-RGB-30-SERIES-GPU-Water-Block/p/CX-9020012-WW EK SE 280 Radiator https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-coolstream-se-280-slim-dual EK Black Matte Tubing https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-tube-zmt-matte-black-15-9-9-5mm Fittings TBA. Hope someone can help me pick some. Upgraded NZXT PCIe Riser (waiting on delivery, currently using the nylon screw solution) The rest of the PC (already purchased, been using for a year): https://pcpartpicker.com/list/Fmt3QD for what I am using currently. No cooler/Case because the H1 isn't supported on PCP Art Picker. Asrock X570 ITX/TB3 motherboard. This uses the Intel mounting brackets. Ryzen 5 5600X (managed to grab one at launch on amazon) NZXT H1 case, PSU, AIO Samsung 970 Evo + 2x1TB 860 Evo (raid 0) 3x Noctua 140mm Cromax.Black The loop: I will fill the loop at the fill port on the Barrow pump. The loop will then go to the GPU block via low profile 90 degree fittings. From the GPU, the loop will then go out the bottom/back of the case and connect to the radiator on the bottom. The radiator will then connect to the CPU block the same way. There are holes in the back of the case that make plenty of room for the tubing, since AIO tubing already flows through there. I think this design solves a lot of the issues Optimum Tech had (they made their custom loop BEFORE the Barrow block was commercially available) here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a3MduBQ4A30 by upgrading to a 280mm radiator rear-mounted (also providing exhaust, which the H1 lacks) and removing the 140mm AIO and fan, which both gives more space for the CPU block and means you can open up the case without needing articulating hinges. The main questions I need help with: What fittings should I use? I don't need articulating fittings like optimum tech used, but low profile ones are a must. Will a 280mm rad be enough for a 3090 and 5600X? I don't need it to run ambient or extreme overclocking, as long as it stays under ~70-80c. Linus's video on watercooling a 3090 showed that a 240mm thick rad was plenty for a 3090 to stay below 60, so I assume a 280 slim would be roughly the same, and the 5600X is a low TDP CPU anyway. This is more about compactness than overclocking. Are there any corrosion concerns with the parts I chose? Will a 750W SFX PSU be sufficient, or should I look for an 800-850W one? Will I need any extra parts I'm not aware of that I'll need? Are there any good guides I can follow on how to bleed/fill the system? The barrow reservoir is very small. Will there be bubble concerns since the reservoir is below the radiator? Is it okay to mount the barrow block sideways, rather than having the resevior portion above the pump, if the radiator is at the top of the loop?

NZXT H1 Because of COVID-19 (Boomer Remover), I'm struggling to find anywhere an NZXT H1 case, which I'd like to use as my case. My question to anyone who sees this is: I want to use a Ryzen 7 3700x and 2070 Super in this case, doing some very light coding and a lot of gaming, maybe some streaming every couple of days. Would this case be good for what I want it to do?

When will NZXT's new H1 be abalable in Canada? Any ideas?

Hey fellow LTT forumers! Just here to share my results of delidding the 4670k. (Initially, I ran 4.5Ghz at 1.335v on my AIDA64 test, 1.335v is actually for my 4.6Ghz settings and I forgot to turn the voltage down So I went ahead and ran AIDA64 with 1.335v as well with MX-4 applied both inside and out of the IHS with the frequency set to 4.5 as well. On 4.5Ghz I will be running 1.32v, but I cant go back and test it again on 1.32 before delidding so here it is.) Here's the first result, before delidding, with MX-4 thermal paste. And the result after delidding with MX-4 inside and outside of the IHS. Just got my hands on the Noctua NT-H1 today and I've ran AIDA64 with the same settings above. Seems to be only a few degrees cooler with the NT-H1 and up to 7 degree celcius cooler on core #4. With Noctua NT-H1 Here's my actual and correct OC at 4.5Ghz with 1.32v. I'm also looking to get the CLU since there's been a lot of positive reviews using it with a delidded CPU on the die.

Hello! I was wondering if anyone knew any good budget microphones, and I'm a complete noob when it comes to audio-related equipment. Typically, I am going to be using them on a Canon 70D DLSR alone, and sometimes maybe on a boom pole on a group project. I'll also probably use it on my desk, but the run and gun style is more or so my focus. I was looking primarily at the RODE VideoMic series (Videomic, Videomic GO, Videomic PRO), along with the Zoom H1 also in consideration. Here, the Videomic GO costs $100, the Videomic w/ Rycote Mount at $180, the Videomic PRO at $230, and the Zoom H1 at $100. I'm looking around at the sub-$200 range, with around $250 pushing it. Looking up samples, it seems that the VideoMic and VideoMic PRO have extremely similar sound when the +20DB feature is turned off on the Pro version. The Zoom H1 also has a +20DB Gain feature, and because the bad audio is also caused by the camera's built in preamp, would it be fair to assume that the VideoMic + Zoom H1 Combo will work fine? This option would also allow a lot of flexibility, as the Zoom H1 is also external and can be monitored. It also seems that the Rode Videomic GO is more or so airy from some results, and some reviews say that it is due to the lack of a battery, as well as some DSLR's bad built-in preamp. But would it also be fair to assume that this issue would be fixed when paired with a Zoom H1? Since we are now using the battery-powered H1 and the H1's improved preamp (over the integrated camera), would I get decent quality? In summary, I'm either to go for a Rode Videomic + Zoom H1 combo, Rode Videomic GO + Zoom H1 combo, or a standalone Rode Videomic PRO or any other solutions that I am not aware of and is recommended. Any and all help is appreciated, thanks!