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mechanical keybaord Is the G710+ still a good choice in 2021?
FoxOfWar posted a topic in Peripherals
After a recent "Coffee Incident" I've found myself needing to replace my Blackwidow Ultimate that I bought quite a while ago. I've only ever heard good things about the G710+ so I was wondering if it'd be a good idea to get one in 2021. the board came out in 2012 so I'm also not sure if a used one would be any good (I feel like the switches would be a bit tired after almost 9 years) - FoxOfWar -
While I had some juice on my table, my cat knocked it over... I cleaned my keyboard (G710+) right after the incident and it still works fine. However, some juice seems to have gotten inside the switches, which now means that some keys take about 3 seconds to come up again because they're gunked up inside... So, now that I've called Logitech support, they've told me they can't do anything about it. I don't really want to buy a new keyboard, so I thought about cleaning the inside of those MX browns, but I don't know how... I am now looking for a way to do that, if that won't work, help with replacing the switches themselves would be nice too.
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Sick - feeling nauseous and wanting to vomit. (google) Don't confuse with Slick Sorry for crappy picture. Samsung S5 Neo does not live up to expectation. So this is essentially what I went with after asking advice at the local Canadian Tire store and LTT forum. I got the blue one instead Link for reference: http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/krylon-colormaster-white-primer-0481521p.html#srp The first part was removing stuff, which was fairly easy, kind off I removed all the keycaps, easiest job ever in my life Then I unscrewed the back of the keyboard (no picture because everybody knows how to do that) So that I can begin to remove the frame. Note the red circle, that's where the volume connectors are connected, plugging out should be really simple. Here is the frame itself alone The next part was quite tricky. I have to remove the orange part (easy) and the black part (which took way too long). Here they are seperated So with everything removed it is time to paint! I was greeted with a warm sunny day outside... Except for wind (here is a decent picture) And here I had to ditch the newspaper because it flies away so quickly and the wind was quite strong. More picture to come since Forum allows up to 20MB only
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So, i'm kinda new to dealing with electronics, sorry for being a pleb I was cleaning the rust off of one of the switches so I could desolder it (that's a whole other problem that i won't go into) and I accidentally bumped into a microchip with the soldering iron and it went flying, now I can't find it. Now the LED's that are supposed to be on on the WASD and arrow keys don't turn on. You can see in the image what kind of microchip that fell off. So i was wondering if that piece is something that i can buy and solder on, or is it a chip that i can't buy separately.
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1. The switch, Cherry MX Brown Feels nice. Like really nice compared to my old membrane keyboard. They are louder than membrane though. That's pretty much it I can say. This is a keyboard review, not a switch review. Brown switches are extremely popular so you'll have no hard time finding a better description of it. 2. The looks Yes, it is big. Didn't fit my backpack type of big (which can fit a 15.6" laptop). But not big as a Corsair K95 with 18 extra macro keys. The orange did throw away for everyone (the only orange Logitech keyboard in existence). Plus almost every Logitech keyboard comes with white backlight (or RGB). I don't get it. Your company has loads of blue gaming mouse like G402, G502, G300s (comes in red too) but never just white. Kinda makes it off. But you can control it, 4 levels of light + 1 level = off. You can also control the light level of WASD and Arrow key. Same thing as the rest of the key. Only the main character are lit. The secondary ones does not light up unfortunately (so all the numbers from 1 to 0 are lit but the symbols below like ! @ # $ % ... does not. Same applies to other place). Also a super cool feature: the light control button also changes its level too. The wrist rest is nice. But I wish it would have looked better. The contact between the kb and the w/rest is little ugly. I wish they could have done something nicer. 3. Functionality 6 programmable G macro keys plus 3 profiles button for up to 18 different macro is super awesome (take that K95). They are also Cherry MX too. So you can mash that G key as much as you like. You can not customize any other key though. MR keys were originally there to allow user to record their own Macro without using the software (since G710 was their first gaming keyboard and Logitech Gaming Software (LGS) wasn't even release back then). Too bad the light can not be controlled (for the M keys), and they are orange too. What can you do with G keys? Almost anything. Record multiple keystrokes or single keystroke Control the mouse (including mouse click and mouse wheel, DPI change (though you need the mouse to use computer profile to work not on-board memory), hell even assign to regular mouse clicks and double clicks though some features might not be available depending on the mouse) Type something for you (so I have G5 assigned to type blue so when I press G5 it will auto type blue on the screen for me), Launch a program Control media (play, pause,...) but not volume since it has a dedicated wheel for that already (most of the feature listed requires you to have LGS installed). Also commands can be added/saved to reuse for different keys later on You also have media keys: play/pause, stop and forward and backward. Also a mute button and a game mode button (there is a dedicated light next to Caps Lock, Num Lock and Scroll Lock to indicate the state). All of that are also backlit and controlled like the rest of the key. LGS is a really awesome software. I haven't tried ARX Control for mobile yet mainly because I see no real purpose in controlling stuff via a mobile phone when you can alt-tab. You can start a key press heat map which registers which key you type most and display out as a map. Though it doesn't tell you in specific. And a key press duration map which is similar to the heat map. You can create multiple profiles to use and have a custom logo on it to differentiate too (as well as name it). Super cool. And import/export it for later use on a different computer for example. You can't control light through LGS unfortunately. For photos of me personally modding it check this thread, I also recently painted the wrist rest blue but fucked up a bit so no picture yet.
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So I was just wondering, the Logitech G710+ use a standard key layout, but there is a problem. On the keys that need stabilizers (eg. space bar, shift) instead of having a traditional wire, it has two other cherry MX stems that are just plastic (Are not wired to the PCB). I just want to replace all the keycaps but this method of stabilization seems to be a proprietary method. I fear that if I put regular keycaps on there, they will wobble like crazy. I just want to know if there are keycap sets out there that are compatible with this, and If not, ill just replace the alphanumeric keys and call it a day.
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So the other day I bought a used G710+, some of the keycaps are broken and I'd like to find replacements for them, or maybe just replace them all. But I'm having a hard time finding a keycap set in the UK/IRL that are iso, black and translucent. Most of the ones I find are in the US or they're not translucent, or not black. I found these ( https://goo.gl/rb65fm ) but they are in the US and I'm not sure about the fully translucent look, especailly on a keyboard with only white backlighting. I though of buying a broken G710+ and stealing the caps but they're hard to find. Do ant of you have some advice on what to do?
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I might have, potentially, found a way to turn on the illumination for the keys on my keyboard (that the controller/key for illumination stopped working) THROUGH SOFTWARE. Includes having LGS (Logitech Gaming Software) running, using LED ILLUMINATION SDK from Logitech and having UnLight by HunterZ. 1. Have LGS run in the background. https://support.logitech.com/en_roeu/software/lgs 2. Start G910_SAMPLE.exe from the LED ILLUMINATION SDK https://www.logitechg.com/sdk/LED_SDK_9.00.zip 3. Set Lighting in it. 4. Have UniLight running (if not running, the LED illumination will turn off once you close G910_sample) https://github.com/HunterZ/UniLight (direct download: https://github.com/HunterZ/UniLight/releases/download/v1.5/UniLight_v1.5.zip ) 5. Close the G910_SAMPLE. 6. Enjoy!!! Having no illumination was such a PITA and it feels strange having the keys illuminated after getting used to no illumination. But I like it. Now I have to find a way to optimize the procedure and make it run on startup. Can anyone here test if it works for their G710 / G710+ or any other Logitech keyboard, especially if it's not an RGB one? Logitech G has no intention to add Illumination control to LGS for their first mechanical keyboard, the G710+. My way proves it can be done. #logitech #G710fix
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Introduction and Parts Selection Everyone has seen the Logitech G710. It's a large, high profile, mostly grey, mechanical keyboard with Cherry MX Blue switches, some macro keys and media controls. The case is all plastic, with a metal mounting plate. Overall, it's fairly sturdy, with little to no flex. Here is a picture of the keyboard: It looks decent, but not great. Especially that blue part around the macro keys stands out, but not in a good way. Glossy plastic is as bad as ever; fingerprints and oils everywhere. The mounting plate is black. Newer keyboards often have white plates, which makes for much more, and more even underglow. And the MX Blue switches are tactile for Cherry switches, but you can get far more tactile switches. And the sound is not that great, compared to some other switches. This is where the mod comes in. Painting the mounting plate white is obvious. And because the rest of my room is white, I also wanted to paint the keyboard white. For switches, I went with the Kailh/Novelkeys BOX Jade switches. These are relatively new switches made by Kailh. They are compatible with Cherry MX keycaps, plates and pins. There are, however, some major differences. They have a box around the stem, and around the contact point. This makes them rated IP56 and for 80 million key presses. This is compared to the Cherry MX, whish is rated IP40 and for 50 million key presses. The clicky switches also have another difference: the tactility and sound comes from a click bar, instead of a click jacket. This makes the sound and tactility much sharper, and it produces a click on both the upstroke and the downstroke. On Cherry MX switches, the sound is a bit more rattly, and it produces a clicky sound only on the downstroke. The tactile feedback is also less defined. On the normal BOX White, the click bar is 0,25mm thick. On the BOX Jade, the click bar is 0,30mm thick. This makes the switch much more tactile, and the sound deeper. This is the switch I chose to replace the MX Blues on my G710 with. Due to the BOX switches being enclosed, they don't support the 3mm through hole LEDs on my G710. They officially only support SMD LEDs. However, the LED can also fit inside the switch. For the linear and tactile switches, this can be 1,8mm or 2x3x4mm through hole LEDs. The clickly switches only support 1,8mm through hole LEDs, due to the click bar. I therefore chose 1,8mm LEDs for my project. Due to tax reasons, I went for 68 BOX Jade switches, and 50 Gateron Green switches. Green switches use a heavier spring than the Blues, but are otherwise identical. The Gaterons are Cherry MX clones, but are often considered to be better than the Cherrys. They are also transparent, so I can mount the LEDs inside the switches. This means that the lighting will be more even, than if I had mounted the LEDs on top of the Gaterons, but inside the BOX switches. The Mod Itself Disassembly The first step is obviously removing the keycaps. The case of the G710 is held together with plastic clips and 14 philips head screws, all on the underside, and none of them are hidden. The volume control is still attached to the top part of the case, and with a cable to the main PCB. The PCB is connected to two additional cables, and the plate is connected to a grounding point. Now, I can start disconnecting the cables, and removing the PCB and mounting plate from the case. Again, screws. I'm painting the top part of the case, so I'm also disassembling that. There are a bunch of plastic tabs and melted plastic rivets. The tabs are enough to hold it together, so just cut the plastic rivets with a box cutter knife. After doing that, it comes apart into 3 pieces. The metal logo is held in with two screws. Desoldering Each switch has two electrical pins. Each LED also has two pins. The keyboard has the 105 ISO keys + 6 programmable keys. This means it's 444 points to desolder, and later solder. Desoldering was done using a soldering iron and solder wick. The wick was placed on the solder joint. Then the iron was placed on the soldering wick for a few seconds. The solder was sucked into the wick. Surprisingly easy. After desoldering those, I can remove the switches and LEDs from the mounting plate. (the fan is a molex powered fan, connected to a "1200W" PSU) The stabilisers were also removed. They are held in with clips, which just have to be pushed in. Painting I hadn't done this before, so I just chose some cheap matte white paint and primer. First, I sanded all of the parts. Then, I applied a few coats of primer, and then some coats of white paint. (I didn't take pictures of the process.) Finding spray painting tutorials should be fairly easy. While I was doing this, I had soaked the keycaps in soapy water. Soldering and Reassembly Now it's time to solder in the new key switches. This is how I laid out the switches: Through hole soldering is really easy. Heat up the pin and the ring on the PCB for a few seconds, feed in a little bit of solder. The stabilisers were inserted into the plate before soldering. The LEDs have to go in first. Make sure to have the polarity correct, as LEDs are diodes. This is marked on the PCB, and the longer pin is the cathode (positive, +). I soldered in the LEDs in the corners, and then the switches in the corners (the G1, G6, numpad Enter and numpad minus). While doing so, an extra pair of hands was used in order to hold the plate together with the PCB. The extra length of the pins was cut off with a pair of metal cutting things. After doing so, the rest of the LEDs were soldered on. The switches were mounted to the plate, but not soldered on. This was to ensure the LEDs fit. Once all of the switches were in the plate, they were soldered on. The reassembly was fairly simple... Undo the steps from the disassembly. I ended up with a screw left over... oops Result In comparison, here's the mounting plate when it's black. Conclusion All together, this project took me four days. I did one step per day, from Friday to Monday. I'm fairly happy with how it turned out. It looks decent, and the switches are much nicer to type on. The glow from the white mounting plate looks really nice, and the white colour makes it a bit more special than the standard black/gray/blue G710. The switches are fun to type on, and the MX Blues feel almost linear in comparison. I went from ~80 to ~90 WPM on Typeracer, which is nice (but still not that good). The sound is also different, and nicer. Due to never having spray painted before, the main issues lie with that. The plate turned out perfect, as it's just a flat piece. The blue plastic part around the macro keys, and the glossy black part around the main keys turned out fine. They are also mostly flat. The big grey part of the case, however... I decided to mask the thing in several places, due to concerns about the parts fitting together. I didn't do a good job, so where I masked has these ridges on them. In retrospect, I probably didn't need to mask them, so I should just have left them and painted. Also, I have noticed LEDs on some of the keys have warmer tones than the rest. This is most noticeable on the Scroll Lock key. I didn't realise this until I had reassembled it and put it on my table, but you can clearly see it in some earlier pictures. Typing Tests With Cherry MX Blues With Kailh BOX Jades. The space bar makes a much louder sound, that's not just the camera. All of the pictures and videos were taken using my Oneplus 3.
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Guys, I am looking for an cherry-mx brown keyboard for sometime and narrowed down to Logitech G710+ and Corsair Strafe. Which one do you guys recommend ? I mostly would use it for coding and little bit of gaming. I am not a fan of RGB lighting and like single color back light.
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Hey guys, I just want to ask how I can replicate these symbols after I've repainted my keyboard? I already asked a sticker shop here if they can make me designs like these but they said they can't because it's too small. Thanks!
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Good Black Friday price. Lowest we've seen. $64.99 -- Logitech G710+ Mechanical Gaming Keyboard Free shipping Sales tax in all states cuz its Best Buy Most other Logitech peripheral on sale too
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Can I change all G programable buttons with R4 (or other size but every one) keycaps? Thanks.
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Hello, I am thinking about buying the Logitech G710+. Could anyone tell me the pros and cons and if I should do it or not?
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Hello everyone! I don´t know which should I choose. Price is similar in my country. It will be my first mechanical keybord. I am currently using Microsoft All-in-one Media keyboard. G710 seems to be old, but G910 have wierd caps. I don´t get in touch with them, but they looks wierd. Normal caps cost another 40$. I don´t need lighting or something like that. I want more silent keyboard, I think I will don´t use that ARC function on G910. If I miss something just ask. Also sorry for bad english. Thank you for helping me choosing and have a nice day!
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So I bought the k70 RGB a week ago for a special price so it costed me as much as a strafe non rgb costs. But I can't forget a black friday deal. The Logitech g710+ was priced at half the price of the strafe non rgb/k70 RGB(on offer). I don't need RGB but I decided to get it because it was cheaper than the k70 non rgb and costed about as much as a regular non rgb mechanical keyboard. Although I've read that the Logitech g710+ keycaps breaks easily so did I do the wrong decision? If you were in my position, would you bought the Logitech or payed twice as much for the K70 RGB?
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Im going to buy a new keyboard, which one would you choose? There is 20% off on the Corsair Gaming K95 RGB, and there is 8% off the Corsair Gaming K70 RGB at my local store. Or should i buy: "Logitech G710+" (Not on sale) Or should i buy another keyboard? (Must be MX Brown) Price range ($100 - $150) (1 000 kr - 1 500 kr at my local store) BTW: They don't have the K70 or K95 without RGB in MX Brown (Note: i have never used a so called "gaming" keyboard before) K70: https://www.komplett.no/corsair-gaming-k70-rgb-led-brown/824948#!tab:extra K95: https://www.komplett.no/corsair-gaming-k95-rgb/835123 Logitech G710+: https://www.komplett.no/logitech-g710-mechanical-gaming-kb/779272
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Hello guys! This is my first actual post here, but I was hoping for some opinions. I want/"need" a new mechanical keyboard. I have a keyboard with blue switches now, but they're too loud to use at night and not particularly fun to game with. I've narrowed my search to to keyboards, both about $100 on Amazon: the Razer Blackwidow Ultimate Stealth, and the Logitech G710+. I am familiar with the differences in switches and have "used" both keyboards in the past (while i worked at Best Buy). I like them both very much. So my question is what anyone's experience with these keyboards has been, or any thoughts about them. Thank you very much! (Also, if my posting habits can be improved in any way, please do not hesitate to offer advice)
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Insane good price for this keyboard! Logitech G710+ mechanical keyboard with Cherry MX Brown switches. It has six macro keys and is two-zone back-lit. The WASD and arrows keys are one zone, and the rest of the keyboard is another zone. Except for the media keys, all other keys are mechanical... including function and macro keys. The Logitech software suite is also quite decent and stable. Cherry MX Blue switches are also available, but they are considerably more expensive. $89.99 No mail in rebates! No promo codes! Link: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16823126299
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Hey guys im looking for a new keyboard and I am wondering what to get? The corsair k70 brown rgb vs. logitech g910 orion spark rgb vs feenix autore vs. logitech g710+? corsair k70 rgb brown: http://gaming.corsair.com/en-us/corsair-gaming-k70-rgb-mechanical-gaming-keyboard-cherry-mx-brown Logitech g910 orion spark rgb: http://gaming.logitech.com/en-us/product/rgb-gaming-keyboard-g910 Feenix autore: http://www.feenixcollection.com/autore.html Logitech g710+: http://gaming.logitech.com/en-us/product/g710plus-mechanical-gaming-keyboard
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Hello! I'm looking for some advice on where I can purchase a set of replacement keys for my G710+. Some have become lose/broken so nothing fancy, preferably just an exact replacement. If possible I need them available in the Netherlands. Thanks!
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Hey guys, so I am really stuck on what keyboard to buy between the corsair k70 rgb and the g710+ I was going to buy the g910, but ill wait for logitech to make new additions to it, but for now i need a new keyboard btw im looking for browns
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My Logitech G710+ is currently suffering from the effects of the issues related to the quality of the keycaps. As a result, I will be requesting an RMA in hopes of a refund, but nonetheless am in need of a new keyboard. Despite prior knowledge of and/or research into the potential candidates below, I have yet to find anything that matches most of the criteria below. Typically, Browns are paired with white backlighting, which is OK, but I prefer blue backlighting. Required Criteria: Cherry MX Blues and/or Browns (strongly prefer browns). Full 104-Key US Layout (read: Standard US Layout + Numpad). NO MACRO KEYS! Wired. Preferred Criteria: LED Backlighting (strongly prefer blue and/or white; RGB is acceptable). Non-dedicated media keys. Priced below $150. USB Hub and/or passthrough. Potential Candidates: CM QuickFire TK CM QuickFire Ultimate Das Keyboard Model S Ultimate WASD 104-Key Custom Mechanical Keyboard PLEASE DO NOT SUGGEST ANY OF THE FOLLOWING: CORSAIR LOGITECH RAZER TL;DR: I am searching for a space-efficient and functional keyboard that is not superfluous; preferably with Cherry MX Browns, Blue LED backlighting, and/or a USB connection for my mouse.
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So as you guys can see from the title in at a bi of a loss which to go for i can get all of these keyboards for about £90 each at my local PC store but i have no idea which one to go with , the only one i have tried is the razer blackwidow , and i like the way the switches feel , i dont do alot of typing , mostly gaming , and after using a membrane keyboard for all of my life i have gotten used to bottoming out the keys so which one gets your vote and which one do you think would be better for me ? thanks in advance
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Hello guys, I am thinking about a new keyboard for myself. The things the keyboard should have are: -Cherry MX switches (red or brown, not sure yet) -key backlight, which i can light as i want (like the k70 from corsair) So I am thinking about: The K70 or K95 from Corsair The G710+ from Logitech The Ryos from Roccat Which keyboard can u recommend, does someone have expirence with some of them, or is there a cheaper keyboard, which can you recommend? I thank you all for your recommendations