Search the Community

Background: I have a Dell G5 5590 that is exhibiting some odd behavior. Specs are as follows: I5 9300H GTX 1650 32 GB Ram (Dual Channel) I've done a few things to this PC in this order: Cleaned the fans (spraying air cannister condensate into them by accident causing notable whining) Installed MSI Afterburner to attempt to give my GPU a small bump. This resulted in battery drain even when plugged in when gaming (and some really bad battery activity such as not charging to 100%). Uninstalled MSI Afterburner I removed my battery as it began to swell and used my laptop exclusively plugged in. went from 8gb to 32 gb of ram Recently replaced SSD and reimaged with fresh windows 10 (issue still persists) The Problem: Performance began to dip after Uninstalling MSI Afterburner and got notably worse when i removed my battery. During game sessions, I would experience extreme dips in FPS (80fps to low 15s) and would stay low for a notable amount of time. Generally this happened when more was happening on screen, however this was not the only trigger as it would happen when I hadn't moved in game at all with nothing on screen. For a time the fans would kick in, however they recently have not (though they are still functional, aka i can force them to 100% speed). With task manager open, I noticed my clock speeds acting extremely weird, with clock speeds dropping extremely low when under load. During my testing for example, in a situation where multiple abilities on screen, my frames dropped from 80 to 10, and when I checked my clock speeds, they were 1.15Ghz (For context the base clock of my CPU is 2.4Ghz). My temperatures at that moment were around 60c. What I've Tried: Running Aida 64 and stressing my CPU had a similar effect where my clock speeds dropped from 2.4Ghz to around 1.1Ghz under load, This was without any temperature spikes or anything, once under load the clockspeeds would simply drop. NOTE: During this test Aida 64 did not show the warning for thermal throttling. Fresh install of Windows, however problem still persists in games (I have not benchmarked aida 64 in this new install) My Question: What could be the cause of this downclock underload? I will be doing more testing with Aida64 and other tools, trying to replace parts by ordering them through dell. Is it a voltage problem? perhaps with the battery gone my 130W powersupply is unable to supply enough power? I'm no longer sure where to look, and some help would be much appreciated! Thank you so much for reading, I'm thankful for any help here!

About two month back, I purchased an old cheap Apple Power Mac G5... Just because I saw this Linus guy and the LTT-Team build their HackPro. Components in the heart of my machine: Intel i7 6700k Asus z170-A ASUS GTX 1080 Strix Since the guy I bought the G5 from sad that it didnt turn on, I didnt even try. I got strayed into the teardown, i found a leaking Liquidcooler-Unit and some parts with water damage. After everything got unscrewed and taken out of the case, it was time to take mesurements. While I waited for the Aluminium sheets to arrive, the design for motherboard-tray and rear io plate was going great. Templates were printed and Aluminium was cut ( buy Hand/Jigsaw... ) Turns out, it didnt fit (Spoiler, the final version isn't fitting perfectly either) The cutout for the fans in the back of the case needed to be a fear mm to the right. So I adapted my CAD file to the changes and redid the backplate. After cutting that again, it was time to mill the edges to fit flush with the original backplate, again... And getting the PCI-slotbracket in place with epoxy, again... The motherbaord-tray still needed some holes so i could bolt it to the original standoffs, cutouts for cables to go through and to safe some weight, of course. In the final version, there is a bridge in the coutout in the top right. Now it was actually looking really promising. I found some spare old parts to use for test fitting in my creation. The pcb-standoffs arrived. Since I only have metric thread cutting tools at home, i use the standoff it self to cut the threads. It worked out fine. The radiator braked in the front still needed some tabs to secure it to the Motherboard-tray, so I welded some on to it. It would have been possible to make it without the need to weld, but then I would have had to get a taller sheet of Aluminium, which was out of the question. So I ended up with this: I wanted to have my PSU securely mounted (not like some other people ). So i rigged a "nice" solution out of spare aluminium that was left over from cutting, which in the end would also be used as a SSD mounting option. And a HDD cage holder was also the result of rigging stuff with aluminium left overs. The HDD Cage was not in the final orientation though. I though I was set up pretty good from the inside, thats when i started drilling some holes. The original cutout for the powercord was taken and placed with some epoxy. (The original plug was used and soldered to a short extension to connect to the PSU and act as a passthrough) To really blend both parts together, I used some filler and smoothed it all out. Now it was time for painting, as i am always short on money, its ghetto rigging time again. Everything was sanded and properly prepped. After redoing the main two parts were the evenness of the paint matters the most, I am still not 100% satisfied, but it is good enough for the time being. In the end, if i dont like the look of them anymore and I have the time. I can just swap them, since they are not modded at all. For front io, i used the existing plug, cut of the wires and soldered the on/off switch, the power LED and the headphonejack to some longer cable i harvested out of an older case. The USB 2.0 Port was repleced with a USB 3.0 Port and some epoxy. The Firewire Port just sits there without a purpose in life. That is all I can do without the real parts in it. Its time to disasamble the old machine. I took some good bye pictures. Don't worry, these aren't all My cpu isnt the newest anymore, that means there is no warranty to be voided, so lets chop the head of with some cheap chinese tool and apply some liquid metal ( dont worry about the professional sketch in the background ). To check if I killed it, I just used my "testbench". The Problem is, that because I dont have a second pc, i was so eager to have my source of addiction back in my life, i took zero pictures of the normal build process... So this is all I got: The cutout behind the Motherbaord was usefull to maneuver the cables around and also helped the plate to screw down, by leaving more room for the 24 pin extation connector. Here is almost everything in now. I still needed to make a new mount for the reservoir. The rear radiator mountingpoints didn't aline with the rear io plate holes. (there is the mistake I mentioned earlier) I solved it by cutting away some sheetmetal in the case to make it fit. At this stage, its almoste done. Gpu support bracket is made, Pump was mounted, SSD's and HDD's are mounted, tubes were bend and front panel stuff was connected. Filling the loop was very easy and no leaks were discovered. I added a LED lighting system with some brackets and used a "normaly closed" switch to turn the lights off when the sidepanel is closed. Ready is my somewaht sleeper build. End result: All Components: Heart: -i7 6700k -ASUS z170 - A -ASUS GTX 1080 Strix SSD's: -Samsung 750 Evo 250 GB -Samsung 850 Evo 500 GB HDD's: -some 1 TB thing -some 500 GB thing PSU: -Bequiet! Pure Power L8-CM 730W Watercooling parts: -Alphacool NexXxos XT 45 Full Copper 360mm Radiator -Alphacool NexXxos ST 30 Full Copper 240mm Radiator -EK-Supremacy Evo CPU Block -EK 1080 Strix Full Cover water block + Backplate -Alphacool D5 Pump with EK antivibartion-mount -Aqua computer aqualis eco 100ml reservoir LED system: -Aqua computer Farbwerk -RGB LED strips Fans: -4 Bequiet Pure Wing 2 120mm -1 Corsair "case fan" 120mm That was my Project. If it is ok I would poste the CAD files and the techinical drawings for the rear io backplate, motherboard-tray, front radiator mount, HDD mount and PSU mount. Its not really clear to me, if that counts as selfpromotion or not. Have a good day everyone! edit: Greetings from Germany

Hi everyone, I've seen a few posts regarding booting from USB on a GIGABYTE motherboard, all of which don't apply to my BIOS and thus I cannot boot from USB. My hard drive crashed recently on my laptop and now it won't let me boot into Windows so I figured to try and start fresh. I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong but the USB won't show up in the boot menu. My BIOS version is FB05 on a Gigabyte G5 KC. Any help is greatly appreciated!

Hello people! I need your help troubleshooting some problems I've been having with my new monitor. So, I just purchased a Samsung Odyssey G5 on sale and while everything seems to be fine with an HDMI connection, I couldn't find the G-Sync option in nVidia control panel to enable Freesync compatibility. I had already enabled Freesync and 144Hz on the monitor btw and windows identified it and allowed me to use 144Hz on HDMI. I remembered seeing somewhere that there was a thing with nVidia's Freesync compatibility over HDMI, so I purchased a Displayport cable thinking that would make my life easier... boy was I wrong... I connected the monitor via DP to the PC and at first everything seemed ok, however, G-Sync was still not showing. So I tried re-enabling the Freesync and 144Hz settings on my display, but I soon as I enable ANYTHING, the display goes black and unresponsive like it's trying to display a signal but miserably fails and does nothing. The OSD does not work and I cannot change anything. The only thing I can do is shut down or unplug the pc and then open the G5's OSD and reset to default settings. Only then the monitor displays something again but does the same thing as soon as I try any other setting. I can't even change the refresh rate from 60Hz! Any advice is kindly welcome! My GPU btw is an ASUS GTX1070 and the model number of the Odyssey G5 is LC27G55TQWRXEN. Thanks in advance!

Hi guys, I just bought a gigabyte G5 gaming laptop with a 3060 and a I5 10500H. In the device manager the 3060 is not visible. I dont know how to use the Insyde Bios and dont know how to disable Integrated Graphics. Please Help

The issue isn’t that the monitor doesn’t work because the monitor itself does turn on however does not display an image, so if I unplug the DP cable from my gpu it will display my login screen as normal but on the left/right monitors. The monitor is a Samsung odyssey G5 27”. My only fix I’ve found so far is if I unplug the power box for the monitor and plug it back in (or power cable in monitor) it works fine and displays the image perfectly fine, however it’s a nuisance to have to unplug it and plug it in every single time I start my pc. side note, I didn’t have this issue until I added in my third monitor which wasn’t the Samsung it’s an AOC monitor, I also run an Acer 3rd monitor PC Specs if required: Msi 2070 super (3 dp ports 1 hdmi) gpu Ryzen 5 3600 cpu b450 tomahawk motherboard power supply is either 550/650w (will check) t force 2x8gb ram

Hello all, I currently own a EVGA G2 850w PSU, at the time it was one of the better price/quality gold rated PSU's out there. I've owned this one since 2015, I'm planning to buy a cablemod Pro set for my new build However I've seen complaints about newer models, the G5's give off a harsh coil whine. So the questions that I have is: Is there a chance that I run into problems with the G2 paired up with the 3080? Are the issues in the EVGA lineup being adressed/can we expect a better fleshed out "G6?" psu-line from them? I just don't want to buy a cablemod set for this PSU, to then having to throw it away due to no EVGA replacement options being available.

Hello, I'm looking for replacements to these pieces of kit that I have been rockin' for well over a decade now. Unfortunately they are nearing the end of their life and have been excellent products which is why I'd like to buy Logitech products again. Here's some information: https://techgage.com/article/logitech_g15_gaming_keyboard/ (Released 2005) https://www.gamersnexus.net/hwreviews/139-logitechg5mouse (Released 2007) Are there any good Logitech replacements out there that are similar/current? Keyboard - If you have ideas and it ends up being a mechanical keyboard then it must be as quiet as possible. The G1 to G18 keys on my old one above have been unused since my WoW/EVE days so a keyboard with G Keys is non-essential. Mouse - If you have ideas for the mouse my only requirement is that the thing doesn't have 20 buttons on it and looks like this thing folded up. Which I assume will feel uncomfortable. I hope this is something you guys can help me with. Any support here would be greatly appreciated

So I just bought Samsung odyssey g5 34 inch version and it has USB port. I was hoping to connect the keyboard directly to the monitor but it does not work. When I connect the keyboard directly to the laptop, the keyboard works just fine. Is it possible to connect the keyboard to the monitor directly? I'm using HDMI to connect with my laptop. Laptop - Dell XPS 13 7390

Hey guys, I can't seem to find any info about differences between Samsung's Odyssey G5A (LS27AG500NUXEN) and G52A (LS27AG520NUXEN) - even on their own page. Could someone please clarify this for me? G52A costs 50$ more and is seemingly the same, at least from what I found. On a side note - is this a solid all-round display? Currently I daily drive Aorus AD27QD as my main display and two random 21' Acer display's for productivity. I want to switch to one bigger display instead of two. By all-round I mean some gaming (I really want something with G-sync, just I case if I switch from team Red to Green), general productivity (many open windows) and digital drawing - but I don't need amazing colors, since most of my work is in black with colored accents (tattoo designs, though I plan on slowly doing more and more digital art).

Hey, I've bought this G5 monitor quite a time back, and was never really bothered about it running with 120hz (only in Native Resolution, any higher or lower, would cap it to either 60hz or 75hz), but just recently I remembered the fact, that this monitor should be able to run with 144hz, but wherever I search, I can't seem to fix it. Could anyone help?

Ive got a Gigabyte G5 and because I tried to run Rockstar Games Launcher and it didnt work, I opened msconfig and then accidentally forgot to hide microsofts services, when I tried to boot I couldnt log in. Trying to factory reset which didnt work, I used my Windows Media Player to install a new Windows however now my preset programs such as control centre 3.0 and Fn Keyboard and Fan control arent working any more so I was gonna ask whether theres a way to find the initial operating system from Gigabyte or if someone could send me theirs for me to install it again

So my pc updated my hardware driver and now it’s fans won’t run and I don’t know what to to please help fast

Hey guys, just changed carriers and now have a naked LG G5, im looking for a screen protector since phantom glass doesn't make one. Any suggestions would be appreciated. I'm probably gonna grab this case http://a.co/fEwmxFm unless anyone has a reason not too.

I have an LG G5 that is running Android 6. It is on Cricket Wireless (an AT&T subsidiary) and has been since I bought it in September. I have a friend that also has an LG G5 and he has had Android 7 since November. I have talk to LG about when I am going to get it, and they said to talk to my carrier. I talked to Cricket and they said "What is android?" I talked to another representative from Cricket and that one said to talk to LG. Now i just want a final answer: am I ever going to get Android 7 on my 2016 flagship phone? How do I go about getting it?

Hello, this is probably gonna be one of those times where it turns out im just being retarded, but anyway. Im having problems with putting my sim card in my Moto G5 (dual sim). I looked it up online and both my current phone (Samsung galaxy core prime) and the Moto G5 uses micro sim cards. I have looked up tutorials online and most of them are either for the G5 plus or for a single sim version. Never the less looking at the videos the card should just "slide in" like normal below the metal thing (tray?) where the SD card should be above it. However, it does not. I have attached some photo's here, it seems like there is a small rectangle shaped thing on the left side, this is what (it looks like) is blocking it, it would fit well if it was like the right side where it was gone. However, on the picture in this guide (on the right) it fits well: http://www.geeksquad.co.uk/articles/motorola-moto-g5-user-setup-guide#Motorola Moto G5 assembly the thing is there and fits well. The only way I can get it even partially in is if I put the corner in the middle, which of course does nothing. I have tried letting other people try to put it in as well, but they cannot do it either, is the size of my micro sim an "old" larger version or is there something wrong here? (Last picture is the sim fitting in the core prime) I excuse the pic potato quality, there is a reason im upgrading I appreciate any and all help!

so i wanted to get one of these when apple still sold them but never had the $$ but ive since found this one [ image below ] for about $285 i want this purely for editing in PS and premier or Final Cut Pro. Will this be better then my current system 6700k 4.0ghz quad-core 16gb ram. If its not can u explain why? If it is can you explain why? I know i post a lot but LTT forums is very helpful and i dont want to make a mistake

I found a power mac g5 at a local recycling site and the hardware in it is pretty beat up (been rained of and what not) and I know apple has a lot of propriety stuff, but is it possible to strip the hardware out and put better stuff in and put windows on it? if so would there happen to be a video of it? I looked and couldn't find any.

So today i picked up a power mac g5 for free, its the one with 8 ram slots, dual 2ghz cpu and what ever. So I was upgrading the ram when it wouldnt boot after. I had put the original ram back in and still nothing. All it does is power on and it blinks once. I looked online for blink codes, but nothing about 1. I am not sure what is wrong with it. It worked before I had tried to upgrade the ram, so...... thanks, cameron

I have a dell G5 2018 with the i7-8750h and GTX 1060 max-q and i was wondering if i would be better off adding an eGPU with a 1660ti or an RTX 2060 or something better than what's inside anyways, or should i start building a whole new pc from scratch? I want to get the best performance for my money but and im thinking the money i save with an eGPU setup might be worth the performance losses over using the same card in a desktop. Going for 144hz at 1080p on high in recent releases. Thanks in advance!

I recently bought the new G5 from dell. Gaming performance is sweet but I ran into 2 issues and was wondering if the LTT community could help me Both are mildly annoying. First is that the screen starts to have lines run across it. Once in a while if I'm looking at a static screen with mainly text on the screen, I start seeing lines forming across my screen. This phenomenon intensifies when I run on battery. Ive had my screen start to have this happen and if I sometimes it just breaks. It freezes and this happens. The second problem is audio reverb. I was playing a game with some friend when suddenly I heard them enter a huge room and their voices started to echo a lot more than normal. I asked if they had moved and they hadn't changed anything. I thought nothing of it until I started listening to youtube videos with people talking. I thought the youtube I was watching changed his mic. but they didn't. I checked Nahimic and the Realtek audio drivers to see if for some reason I had anything applied but there was nothing. Something is adding some reverb to my audio output but I cant seem to find out what it is. It makes voice chats very difficult because of the echo and youtube videos sound really really weird. Was wondering if anyone's able to help me out with it =D

a few days ago my Dell G5 5587(i7-8750H,16GB RAM,1060 max-q) suffered a final blow after just 1 and a half years of use...luckily dell offered me a full payback so now i have around 1350 euros to spend on a new gaming machine...since i was looking for some deals i stumbled upon a newer version of G5 with 9th gen i7 and RTX 2070 max-q for 1500 euros...after watching some reviews and videos a am still not convinced if i should go on and buy it or buy a different one with RTX 2060 but has guaranteed better thermal performance...so i turn to you guys for some advice on this cause im not sure which one would have better gaming performance(mainly Destiny 2) the G5 one or something like zephyrus / legion / omen / msi with 2060?

Hey all! I am planning a build soon of a Ryzen Hackintosh inside an old G5 case. I wanted to share my proposed build before starting with purchasing to double check everything would work on macOS and to get some feedback. There are a few things that I need some guidance on so would appreciate some help. So, the proposed list is as follows: CPU - Ryzen 5 1600X MB - B450 (haven't decided) RAM - 32GB Corsair LPX Storage - Intel 660p 1TB + generic 7200rpm 2TB HDD (Summed as a Fusion Drive) GPU - Need guidance Case - PowerMac G5 PSU - be quiet! Pure Power 11 400w From scouting parts on eBay and Gumtree, I estimate the build is going to cost around £650 or $860, if I allocate around £90 for a GPU. This includes a cpu cooler, fans, but not any ATX conversion kits for the case. I will be using this machine for audio production and office tasks. NO gaming whatsoever. I need some help choosing a video card - I use a 21:9 monitor as my main monitor, and would like to add 2 more 1080p displays alongside. What video card would you suggest? Ideally would like to spend as little as possible as graphics are not a high priority. Just need something that can run 3 1080p monitors. Nothing special. Can anybody tell me if Fusion Drive is the best way to achieve decent speeds from a SSD/HDD set up? I've seen video with Optane and StoreMI among others, and would like to know what the best way to maximise performance from an HDD is. As far as I can tell, tiering seems to be a better option than caching, but would love some suggestions. Would a RAID setup be beneficial at all? The next thing, which is a big one, is Thunderbolt. As my interface uses Thunderbolt (v1), I require a thunderbolt port. I've seen Level1Techs implement this on Threadripper, and there are other resources suggesting that despite Thunderbolt 3 not being officially supported on Ryzen, a Titan Ridge add in card seem to be basically plug and play (despite hot-swapping not being available. No problem though). Has anyone managed to get this to work on macOS? Here is the reference article: https://egpu.io/forums/builds/thunderbolt-3-amd-ryzen-5-2400g-gtx-108032gbps-tb3-aorus-gaming-box-win10-1803-theitsage/ Finally, is there anything in the parts list that won't with macOS? Would love to hear thoughts and comments! :)

So I am trying to mod an old mac mini g5 and get it maxed out to its full potential. I am having trouble getting the SSD to PATA converter working though. Everytime I boot the system with it in, the systems HDD loses power and it goes straight to a blank white screen (Probably because the SSD isn't initialized for use with the Mac.) Has anyone successfully replaced the PATA CD drive with an SSD? I aint worrid about having to mod the motherboard since this system is going to be modded anyway.

Hello guys! First post here with quite a few questions... 1. is i5-8300H really better than i7-7700HQ? 2. Would lenovo y530 be good for graphic design work? I heard it has bad screen. (later with specs) 3. Okay probably main question... is y530 with specs: i7-8750H| 1050 GB| 8GB ram| 1TB| worth extra 136€ in price over same y530 but with i5-8300H| 1050GB| 8GB| 1TB + SSD 128GB| 8GB ram| (first one is about 935€ and other is 799€) 4. I have a list of laptops I've looked at while searching for a good one and I'm really hooked on y530 but if it's screen is lame so that's a no no for graphical design.. LIST IS HERE (googledrive) 5. Maybe you have any other suggestions or tips? My budget is about 1000€ the lower the better.. So I guess I'm looking best bang for a buck. 6. Also design of a laptop is kinda important not in a visual way but in functionality I guess.. Good thermals, sturdy feeling for a price. Touchpad can be bad.. It will be barely used.. :)) P.S my location is Lithuania so our pricing will be different.