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Hi everyone. I want to ask about mixing Trident Z RGB CL18 and Z Neo CL18. My current setup is G.SKILL Trident Z RGB 16GB (2x8GB), F4-3600C18D-16GTZR (CL18-22-22-42) and I want to buy the same type but so hard to find. So I think I want to grab G.SKILL Trident Z Neo 16GB (2x8GB), F4-3600C18D-16GTZN (CL18-22-22-42) because I already have Trident Z RGB 16GB CL18 kit. Are both compatible for the same CL18-22-22-42? As long as another memory is the same CL18-22-22-42, can I proceed with a 32GB kit too? (16GBx2 + 32GBx2, but it's weird 48GB hahaha) I don't want to choose another brand because I love this brand and at the same time, I don't want to spend another buck for 2 memory kits (32GBx2) because it is quite expensive and left my current 16GBx2 kit. I searched on the Internet, not finding anything showing mixing G.SKILL Trident Z RGB with G.SKILL Trident Z Neo that both have the same CL18-22-22-42. I do not understand about this, but I think 'maybe' ok because it has the same CL18-22-22-42. Hope you guys help me before I purchase it. I am planning to buy next month, May 2021. Thanks.

Hello, I thought I'd log my build as it has been such a painstakingly difficult process! It isn't completed yet, I still need to throw in a 1080tI and complete two lines of tubing but I can finally see the end... and it will be so rewarding when I get there! Anyway. I used to have a MATX Bitfenix Aegis case in which I had an I5-4690K paired with a 1070 at first and then a 1080Ti. The PC had a pretty neat dual radiator cooling system paired with a whole in 1 pump. It was a flexible tubing build with constant white lighting from a total of 9 Coolermaster 120mm and 140mm fans. Cooling was exceptional and it was a positive pressure build so dust was never an issue despite being in one heck of a dusty city (Melbourne). I felt the urge to upgrade the CPU after 5 years of trustworthy performance and sold the whole build. I owned a Razer blade 2016 for a while and the performance loss from the external GPU was just depressing so after about a year of ownership (much of it concurrent with that of my desktop), I sold it to another adventurous soul. So. I decided to build a more compact watercooled desktop that would pack a punch and look slick. I started by looking at a few cases and narrowed it down to two - The Phanteks Enthoo Evolv Mini ITX and the Fractal Design Define Nano S. I wanted a small build with great watercooling options. The Fractal case won out because it made no sense to me that the Phanteks case enabled top mounting a 280mm rad without efficient airflow (seriously!). I still had my 1080Ti (FE) so I proceeded with the selection of the other components: I7 7700K ASUS ROG Strix 270i G.Skill Trident Z RGB F4-3200C16D-16GTZR 16GB (2x8GB) DDR4 Samsung 960 EVO NVMe M.2 1TB SSD Thermaltake Riing Plus 12 RGB Premium Edition Fan 3pk Phanteks F140MP Premium PWM 140mm Radiator Fan Black/White EK CoolStream SE 240 Slim Dual Radiator EK CoolStream CE 280 Dual Radiator EK RES X3 110 Reservoir EK-XTOP Revo D5 PWM Pump Plexi EK FB ASUS Z270I Strix RGB Monoblock Nickel EK Full Cover EK-FC1080 GTX Ti Backplate - Black & EK Full Cover VGA Block EK-FC1080 GTX Ti - Nickel Upon receiving all this great kit, excited as I was, and having removed/assembled GPU waterblocks tens of times before, I proceeded to installing the waterblock on the 1080 Ti and 4 resistors later, I was done... Not kidding. In one foul swoop I destroyed my beautiful GPU. I didn't cry or get angry (surprisingly). I stood up, grabbed my keys and went for a long stroll. Over the next few days, I tried myself at welding, baking GPUs etc. On the bright side, between experiments I assembled the rig - and it was looking great. I had purchased 10mm hard tubing by Alphacool which is UV reactive and received OCcool fittings from Germany, including two 90 degree and two 45 degree fittings. I then tried myself at bending tubing. Overcooked the first two which bubbled up like a cane toad's skin and then undercooked the next few which just didn't look right. A few meters of tubing later (literally) I had one or two good(ish) bends. I assembled the lot, leak test - it leaked... Redid a bend, leak test - it held up. Excited, I connected the power to the CPU, GPU and mobo, powered up the beast and POOF! A puff of smoke, a flash and a dead GPU (confirmed dead at this point I guess...). At that point in time I made two decisions: 1. Bends, although I was convinced they had merit my looking at various videos, I would avoid, using 90 degree fittings instead. 2. I wouldn't bother building my righ absent a GPU. So, time passed (like a month or more) and time is an amateur modder's worst enemy. I decided I would upgrade the potential of my build from great to epic, and so I ordered UV LEDs and UV die (clear) for my build. And you know what? It looks super cool! Now a few details I skipped: The motherboard supports ASUS Aura (RBG lighting) but has only one set of RGB connectors The motherboard has no USB2.0 connector (3.0 only) The Thermaltake fan hub (to control the lights & speed) requires a 2.0 mobo connector The Phanteks fan connectors are different to Thermaltake's and are therefore not compatible with the fan "hub" The solutions were simple: USB 3.0 to USB2.0 Mobo adapter Corsair Commander controller fan hub allowing redirection of the USB2.0 signal to the Termaltake fan hub. Therefore we have: Mobo 3.0 connector > 3.0 to 2.0 adapter > Corsair Commander > Thermaltake hub With the two 140mm Phantek fans connected to the Corsair Commander and the three 120mm RGB fans connected to the Thermaltake hub. Now I am still not sure whether or not I'll be able to control the fan speed or lighting due to the use of an adapter - I am hoping I can but yet TBD. I could have opted for two 140mm Thermaltake RGB fans but I really like the muted appearance of the Phanteks combined with their "amazing" performance (according to other threads). So the status quo is: The 280mm and 240mm radiators fit in the case - it's snug, but it works. I have the 280mm rad at the front with two 140mm fans in pull configuration inside the case and the 240mm rad at the top, as close as possible to the window to make room for the RAM sticks, supported by two 120mm fans in push config. I also have a 120mm fan at the rear of the case pushing hot air out of the case - hesitant to rotate it so it pulls cool air in as I would need a filter and at this point in time cannot be bothered. I have hard line tubing linking the CPU to the 240mm top rad, the top rad dripping into the reservoir, the reservoir down into the pump, pump into the 280mm front rad. Once I get the GPU I will route the front rad to the GPU and then the GPU to the CPU and we can call it a build. The tubing from the res to the pump is vertical and would go along the contour of the GPU. I think despite being tight that it will fit. If it doesn't, I can use the two little 1/4 extenders that came with the res to push the loop closer to the window and clear the GPU - nice to have a plan for once... I prefer the look without bends - the black corner fittings blend well with the build. The positioning of the UV strips was difficult - initially I hat 80cm of strips going around the window and lighting it all very nicely. But like everything, good things never last and upon installing the two top fans, I realised I no longer had enough clearance. Now I have two separate strips, one hidden behind the top rad and facing down and the second 60cm strip along the bottom and front edges of the window. Happy for now but with two little worries: Will I be able to control fan speed and lighting through the USB3.0 to USB2.0 adapter? I have three different RGB lighting zones: The motherboard with the CPU cooler and the RAM The two RGB lighting strips The three 120mm fans (top x 2 and rear x 1) Ideally I would like points 1 and 2 above to be linked and 3 to only run when temps exceed X (party mode!). To do that, I need to configure the RGB cabling differently (likely mobo RGB header to split connector which goes to the 2 strips and connecting the CPU RGB connector to the end of one of the 2 strips). Next update will be when I get the GPU and finalise the build - I hope this is helpful to others looking at building a watercooled system in the Fractal Design Define Nano S. Thanks for reading! Mike

Just wanted to share, not too many pictures, basic build here, nothing too fancy. I am thinking of switching up some colors around my desk station, need something different than all black. I will start by getting a White Meshify C soon. PC SPECS (PCPARTPICKER LINK) CPU: Ryzen 5 1600X Thermal Paste: Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut CPU Cooler: Corsair H105 Motherboard: Asus ROG Crosshair VI Hero Ram: G.Skill Trident Z RGB 16GB @ 3200MHz Storage: 960 EVO M.2 250GB (OS), 850 EVO SSD 500GB (Multiplayer Games and game recording), Seagate 2TB HDD (Storage and Single player games) GPU: XFX RX 480 8GB (I'd like to upgrade but I'm not doing so in these dark times) Case: Fractal Design Meshify C PSU: EVGA 750w (Purchased smaller G3 PSU, just haven't installed yet) Fans: Noctua Chromax fans, because I like them. MORE PICTURES

Hi. I have a R5 1600 on a Gigabyte AB350 - Gaming 3, with 16GB G.Skill Trident Z 3200 CAS16 RGB and a Gaming X 1070. Even with the latest BIOS updates, the RAM does not run on its OC speeds. XMP outright shows error in memory diagnostic tool and setting the timings, clocks and voltages (SoC + Memory) results in games crashing. I let it sit at its default 2133MHz SPD. So the problem is I've been getting worse and worse performance everyday. Far Cry 5's in game benchmark gave 95avg fps not 2 days ago, but now it isnt going beyond 89ish avg fps. Without CPU OC (everything to default) I get 82 fps, when the CPU is OCed to 3.7GHz (everything else to default) I get 84 fps. I know good that the GPU isn't the bottleneck as it doesnt sit at 99% load and the GTX 1070 can do 110+ fps on 1080p ultra on FC5. Other games such as Dying Light, R6 Siege are behaving the same way. Any input would be greatly appreciated.