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Showing results for tags 'ftw3'.
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So i was going to buy the ASUS RTX 3090 strix OC but i noticed people saying that if you watercool it its going to loose its warranty vs the EVGA 3090 FTW3 Ultra which doesn't void warranty if you watercool it. So i found the EVGA 3090 FTW3 Ultra quite interesting instead and was wondering if anybody knows if there's a big difference between the 2 cards comparing to overclocking and such? I'm going to overclock the card I'm getting so would you just pull the trigger at the STRIX and not care for warranty or would you get the EVGA instead? Is the 2 cards more or less the same when overclocking or is there a big difference between the EVGA and STRIX? Hope to get some tips on which to buy Thanks! -
Hi i have a Build with iCue and Asus Strix Z690-A Gamming D4,and EVGA GPU RTX-3070 TI FTW3 I just discovered the ARGB Header from the GPU and my question is about that Header ,What Would happen if a I conect the header to one Mobo ARGB Header? Would I able to control the GPU 's RGB via Armoury Create or I would burn something?
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So like most if not all higher end 30-series GPUs my VRAM temperature on the RTX 3090 FTW3 Hybrid get really high and I have been wondering is there any options for me with this card to install a active cooling backplate without have to completely removing the already installed AIO/Hybrid on the card?
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Hello, So I think there may be an issue with the HDMI port on my GPU. Whenever I first got it and installed it (Seemingly by a notification miracle...) I was using a 55" Vizio tv off to the side occasionally that was a few years old. I began noticing an issue where the signal will randomly cut out every few minutes and give a few seconds with a black screen, with everything else working fine. Now, I have monitors plugged into the Displayport slots, and I never have any signal loss or issues. I thought that the issue was my Vizio TV. But now, I have a new Samsung Q80T, and the same thing happens. I'm now using different cables than before, HDMI 2.1, and trying to do 4k 120HZ, but it's quite frustrating playing anything on this, as the signal will frequently cut out at the worst time. So I can't help but wonder if it's a problem with my GPU or the HDMI port. My HOPE is that someone may have had a similar issue, and found a setting that needed to be changed, whether it be in display settings or nvidia control panel. Does anyone have a solution to offer? Thanks in advance, Daniel
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I've recently installed the aforementioned card, and since installation I have been having strange crashing issues. (see attached picture) I'm not sure what the cause of this could be as I've never seen this issue before installing the card. The PC is plugged directly into the wall outlet, and the GPU is using 3 individual PCIe power connectors from the PSU. My System Specs: i7-8086k at 4.9Ghz Dark Rock Pro 4 Hyper X Pred RGB 32GB 3200Mhz Aorus Gaming 7 Z370 EVGA 3090 Ultra Gaming FTW3 Dark Power 12 1200W Any help or insight on the matter would be appreciated! -Unsung
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I was GPU-less since September last year, as I sold my 1080 Ti Strix after Ampere was announced. Didn't expect stock would kill itself, so I didn't get a 3080 until mid-December, and glad I got the one without the red lip. Didn't install it to my PC until just now since I wanted to get all the parts I have before I started switching cases so I would cable manage everything in one go. So, literally just hours ago, I finally finished switching cases from the Phanteks P350X to the O11DW. My main gripe about the O11DW, that while it is quite roomy, it has bare bones routing or tie points for cable management, the middle and upper top are what you get. It took me hours, first by remaking my cables, and actually managing the cables inside the case, whereas my P350X my only issue was that it was tight but I managed it. Second issue was the HDD/SSD mounting at the back plate, it was flat enough that it was difficult to insert SATA power connectors to the drives. I had to route the connector under the drive, luckily SATA cables are flat. Third, is a small thing but it can be attributed to the Motherboard/fans, but USB 3.1 connectors is impossible to connect to the header if it's at the bottom and if you have fans there. Asus moved the USB header to the side near the 24-pin on Maximus XII series it seems. I actually liked how it turned out. I think there's a certain aesthetic to fans having no LEDs and how white accentuates the color of other sources of LEDs. After I bought the O11DW, originally I was gonna buy RGB fans like the UniFans, but I got the idea for this theme after I saw some O11DW builds on PCP using only Arctic P12 white fans and some LEDs. The Phantek's LED strip is probably the thinnest LED strip that's diffused that I know of, if anyone can suggest another I can check it out so I can make the LED strips more subtle. The 3080 + cables are a tight fit btw, almost hitting the glass. Since they're PET cables as well, it's stiff, so I had to really flex it back. Still somewhat WIP. I plan on either buying additional 16GB ram for production work as 16GB alone isn't cutting it anymore for me, or getting a Dominator Platinum RGB White 4x8GB. Might still try to make the LEDs' cables hidden. Also gonna do some cable management on my desk, buy some desk wire clamps for my cables and an aluminum bracket for my surge protector under my desk. Might also make/have someone make a custom GPU bracket for me, as the FTW3 is a lot heavier than my 1080 Ti Strix. Still rocking the 8700k, originally I was going to switch to the 3900 earlier last year, but I was spending so much on my audio hobby left and right, that I already spent more than my entire PC is now. Although I might switch to AM4 this year, preferably 5700 if that comes out, or go broke 5900. Alternatively not at all, since there's a chance I'll be living in Japan this year or the next, so might build a new PC altogether, just going to bring my drives and GPU with me.
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Hey guys, I'll try to explain the situation clear as possible. Installed a new GPU and now the RGB on the Fans/ CPU cooler and rams don't work but the RGB on the VGA. Specs : Ryzen 7 2700x / ASUS TUf mb450 plus / XPG 2x8Gb / EVGA ftw3 3060 ti so before i install the VGA the RGB worked. after that only the GPU RGB started working but the coolers and ram. i installed the NVIDIA drivers. can anyone help me with this to get the whole system lighting again?
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Dears, I obtained recently RTX 3070 EVGA FTW3 GPU. (removed the old drive using DDU tool) Since then whenever the monitors goes to sleep, the moment it wakes up the main screen goes like on and off for multiple times and eventually powers on after few seconds. My monitor has G-sync feature on it and I could see Nvidia message from task bar saying "G-sync connected" while in control panel I disabled it. I am running least driver but the issue keeps going regardless to the driver version I got. My monitor is ASUS ROG PG278QR Any suggestions?
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I've owned my current GPU for about 2 months now, and I've been experiencing a very odd issue with the RGB on it. The lighting "works", but I say "works" in a very loose sense, because its ability to work is largely dependent on the circumstances. Here are said circumstances: When my PC idles, it stays off Under a heavy enough and long enough sustained load for ~4-5 minutes, the lighting pops on Once the load ends and it goes back to idling, there's a time period before the lighting flickers away and turns off The lighting also stays off if I put it to sleep and wake it afterwards (most of the time) It's a very weird and niche issue that I haven't seen with many other people, but I figured I'd see if anyone has an idea of what's going on.
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I'm planning on buying one, I have a pc with a Corsair RM 650x is it good enough? I learned not to trust the product pages, especially when they can't even get the product size right on their own site lol. -
I think I'm tired of waiting for Volta/Vega and I'm going to get a GTX 1080 ti. More specifically an EVGA GTX 1080 ti Hybrid FTW3. Jay showed it off here: Does anyone know is EVGA released any information about the release of it? I can't find anything anywhere...
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This is my first SLI in my life and I can't decide which model to take for SLI. Cards will be with water blocks from EK. Is it worth to take FTW with better power section? Can ASIC in FTW be worse than ASIC in FE? Does FE have any limitations in the BIOS?
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So I've been playing around with my Evga 1080ti FTW3 in Prec X. Master/slave drive, voltage, power, mem clock etc. Basically what I've found is that it throttles at 60c, and again at 70c. For my best results of a stable 2050MHz and temp of 59c, I leave it at 117% priority, GPU offset +60 memory offset +30.. I also ran the voltage scanner curve test to set a max voltage per frequency. Curious as to how others are finding this cards OCing ability. It seems to me that it's limited by voltage and Pascal.
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Ladies and Gents, I was wondering if anyone has had any experience with painting the backplate of their GPU and would it be bad to paint the silver shroud around the fans? I currently have an EVGA 1080TI FTW3 and I wanted to paint the backplate with Plastidip to white so it would match my build better. I there any harm in doing this? If anyone has any cool examples please let me know. Thanks.
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Hello. I want to buy a 1080 Ti, and right now I'm debating between FTW3 and STRIX, I know that the performance are the same, but I'm mainly talking about PCB build quality and cooling. I like EVGA's cooling better since it has this asynchronous fans which makes things easier to customize, and those thermal sensors are nice to have. The thing I like about the STRIX is the looks, and the store that I'm buying now has it in stock right now, so I can basically just go and grab it. Any thoughts..?
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Hello, I am planning on building a new setup inside of a Corsair Air 240 with a micro ATX mobo. I already have two EVGA 1080Ti FTW3 edition for SLI, however I am afraid that because it is a mATX mobo, there is only one slot between the two PCIE slots, basically making the cards stack one on top of the other with VERY little to no room in between. My question is, will this cause the second card to heat up quickly (since they are both open air design) to the point where it is not worth it? I am currently running a mid atx build (upgrading from Sandy Bridge to the 8700k) and there are two slot spaces, which gives it enough room to breath and stay moderately warm. What do you guys think? And yes, I really want to do a micro ATX build for this next rig. Thanks!
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Hi there just bought a EVGA ftw3 1080 ti, I feel like it is performing equal or less compared to my old 1070. I run battlefield at around 100 fps on ultra, not saying this is bad or anything but my old 1070 could do the same? My specs are: i7 6700k @4Ghz 16Gb Ram ddr4 evga 1080ti ftw3 850 psu 1tb ssd
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I had been rocking my 2700k at 4.8GHz for the last 5 1/2 years. I wanted something with the same kind of clocks, but more cores. Along came Skylake X and I decided to give it a shot. My goal was 4.8GHz on all 8 cores being cooled by an AIO. I found success with the 4.8GHz on all 8 cores at 1.285v with temps maxing at 81c during a 2 hour Realbench stability test. This was with the help of a Silicon Lottery Delid. Before that I was stable at 4.7GHz @ 1.235v at the same temps. Parts List: https://pcpartpicker.com/b/zqRJ7P i7-7820x @ 4.8GHz 1.285v (Delidded) Gigabyte x299 Aorus Gaming 7 EVGA 1080 ti FTW3 Corsair H115i Push/Pull w/ 4 x Noiseblocker NB-eLoop B14-PS 32GB g.Skill TridentZ RGB DDR4-3600 CL16 2 x Samsung 960 EVO 500GB in Raid 0 Samsung 850 EVO 1tb EVGA Supernova G2 850w Phantek Enthoo Evolv ATX Glass 3 x Phanteks PH-140XP PWM NZXT Hue+ NZXT Grid+ 35" 3440x1440 100Hz AOC AG352UCG Corsair K70 Logitech G900
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So a few months ago, I planned a build, but as I was saving for it, some new stuff came along, and I decided to change some stuff. What are your guy's thoughts on this build? Everything is USD. EVGA GTX 1080 Ti FTW3 (799.99) Intel Core i7 8700k (359.99, assuming it stays MSRP) Asus Z370 Maximus X Wifi AC (279.99) Corsair LPX 2x8 @2666 (140... although I just checked and its 190 for some reason...mining?) 1x WD Blue 1TB 7200RP, 1x WD Blue 500GB m.2 drive (200 combined) Cryorig R1 Ultimate (90) Corsair HD120 3 pack (90) Phanteks Enthoo Luxe (180) EVGA P2 Supernova 750w (140; I chose this and not a lesser one since its the least powerful PSU with extra SATA and PCI ports for expandability) Corsair K70 Luxe (160) Acer Predator XB241YU, 1440p, 1m, 144hz, TN (500) Total; $2950, $2270 without peripherals. I don't have a set budget, but would like stuff to be kept as cheap as possible (although, I am aware I am not being the best when it comes to price/performance. Thanks for any help!
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Hey, I'm new to the forum. I have a question about the RTX 2080 Evga ftw3 (non-ultra). Does the non-ultra have the A-chip or non A-chip. Also are there any other differences between the non-ultra and ultra cards?
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Hi, I am planning a new build and have the amazing choice between the FTW 3 2080ti or the Lightning Z 2080 ti. I mainly want the best gaming performance although if this is the same across both cards, I may just go for the MSI because of the display on it. What do you guys think? Thanks
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This appears to be a tough decision for me. Firstly there is not much information on the Sea Hawk other than it has the same limiter as the Gaming X Trio meaning ~330w The EVGA has a limit of around ~370 Does being locked in around 330 on liquid out weight having a ceiling of 370 on air? Rig, Corsair 900D 8700K 5.2 150i w/6x Noctua 120MM Push&Pulling 64GB Gskill 3200 CAS14 1TB Samsung 981 NVME in OCOOL PCIe Cooler EVGA T2 1000 RAID5 4x 2TB WD Red RAID1 2x 5TB Case Fans 3x 140 Noctua & 5x Noctua 120 (not including the 6xAIO)
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Hey guys, Recently purchased 1080 TI FTW3 and just wondering what "Power target" & "Temp target" are stands for. By default it's 100%/85. In this case I got 66-70C ingame experience with aggresive fans' curves in automatic mode. OK. But yesterday I made an experiment - put it on 55%/68C. My temps lowered by 11-15 degrees with FPS remaining on the same level. P.S. I won't overclock it in the nearest future. Should I stick to those values?
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Hello everyone! I've found a used 1080ti EVGA which is around 6 months old for 620€. It has had 2 owners already and if I purchase it I would be the 3rd. What's a good way of testing the card? The seller says he has a receipt from Caseking.de, so what could I do with it in case something goes wrong since I'm not the one who purchased it directly from them? Every answer will be much appreciated, cheers!
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Is the custome pcb really worth it for the ftw3? I can buy a xc ultra for 1400 on new egg, but if i wait for the ftw3 to go back in stock i can get it at the same price. Not sure if i should wait and risk not being able to get either or pull the trigger on xc ultra now. From what ive seen the ftw3 runs about 8° cooler
