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Hello, I have the Xiaomi Mi 11 and for some reason I can no longer (for the past month now) take further away photos without it being very blurry when I could flawlessly prior. I could even zoom into a performance in a concert before but that's not even remotely a possibility any more. Close up photos and videos like someone right in front of me is still as good as it ever was. The auto focus on those photos work as it should too. What could I do to try and fix this puzzling issue? Thank you.

I've been trying to see if this a case of an exposed wire, without taking the psu out. I used a magnifying glass and saw that it was a tiny nick but couldn't see an exposed wire. I took two photos, one that shows the nick (it is blurry so it probably looks like debris) and the same photo with the chipped section under a shadow (to see if the the nick shines). Do you guys think that even though it doesn't shine under indirect light, do you think the cable could be exposed? I think it was because my case's usb-c front panel connector which the edges were pointy and rubbed against the cable (a pcie power cable) Here are the photos:

Hi. Does anyone know the difference between these two PSUs?: - seasonic snow silent 550w (gold) - seasonic focus PX 550 (platinum) I know about efficiency differences, but I am not sure which one is better. The snow silent one is highest (?) Prime line and focus PX is not (?). Snow silent was advertised as "silent" psu because of hybrid cooling mode, but focus PX also has that feature. Looking at the specs, focus PX would be better because it's the same psu but with platinum rating. But it's not white. That's all. Am I right? Thank you.

I don't know when it started but I have been seeing this weird where the screen would blur the words out on its own and I would have to stick my cursor over that word to then see the words refocus and read them then once I move the cursor away it un focuses again, any way to solve this? Thanks, and happy holidays!

Found this useful considering no one else seems to explain it properly!

Hello, I recently bought a gtx 1080 ti strix and Im getting crazy coil whine on some applications; -on games with very high fps 500+ ( I know that is fixable and doesnt bother me, i limit the fps to 300 and you cant hear it) -running Folding at home but only on certain "jobs". It doesnt seem to matter about the power draw at all since one job could be using around 100% power limit and be wisper quiet and another 80% and be loud and another 80& aswell and be quiet Im pretty sure its the psu, since it isnt a very high quality one at all ( LC Power 650w 2.3) and I had some coil whine with my previus gpu ( 970), but not nearly as much. I can also hear the same whine coming from the PSU as it is coming from the GPU, but just a little quieter on the PSU. I was looking at some reviews and found this seasonic one have some incredible ripple performance and generaly a very well build psu, judging from JonnyGURU . I can get it for around 110 eur. I want something high quality that will last for a long time and this one has 10years of warranty. Would this be a good choice? Maybe another better choice? Thank you for your anwsers and have a nice day

(This also counts for focus based PSUs like Antec Earthwatts and Asus Strix, with the exception of the nzxt-e and the new Focus GM, GX, PX and SGX lines (it meets 2.52 atx, which require hardware changes)) The Seasonic Focus line has been suffering major criticism on the PSU subforum lately. Why?  Old revisions (2017-2018) will shut off on some GPUs (970, 1080 ti, vega 64, Vega VII, 2080 ti). it'll will trigger the overcurrent protection, and will shut down immediately. This is likely due to the high transients the GPUs are known to put out New revisions (2018-2019) have a bigger headroom, but aren't built for it and start to ripple at the loads where the PSU would shut down at with the older revision.  If you plan on buying one, either wait for the v2, or choose a different PSUs, for this you can check the PSU tier list, or ask around on the forum. With that is focus known to be quite loud under load, has a staggering 200% opp on the 3.3v rail, but this isn't as concerning as the above mentioned problems. edit: the 2019 based Focus GX/GM/PX have fixed mentioned issues Sources: @PSUGuru, Tomshardware, Guru3d, seasonic, pceva

Thanks to @Seasonic Rep for the sample Some brief information The Seasonic Focus and Focus Plus will be replaced by 4 new focus models: The GM, GX, PX and SGX. The GM will replace the Focus, having 7 years of warranty, an 80+ gold rating and semi-modular cables. The GX will replace the Focus Plus Gold, having 10 years of warranty, an 80+ gold rating and fully modular cables. The PX will replace the Focus Plus Platinum, having 10 years of warranty, 80+ platinum rating and fully modular cables. The SGX will not replace any current focus units, but rather starting a new line as an SFX-L, having 10 years of warranty, 80+ gold rating and fully modular cables. The new units are still all single rail, which I'm personally less of a fan of, especially after 650w (which makes it less of a case here, but is applicable for other focus GX units) . This is because of the rare case that undervoltage protection would be ruled out or fail and a rail would drop down in voltage. after this wattage it's likely to burn the cables when this would happen. this is a rare, but not impossible case. External shots Bottom/label Side Back Side included cables Connectors Box Top/fan Internal shots Total view backside DC-DC section Full internal APFC side Fan close-up for fan model Performance data as we currently don't own any equipment to test PSUs on efficiency, noise and other things, I'll leave some data here from reputable reviewers about a GX based model in form of the Phanteks AMP. https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/phanteks-amp-series-550w-power-supply-review https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/phanteks-amp-series-650w-power-supply-review https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/phanteks-amp-series-750w-power-supply Other things in the box - Zipties - PSU tester (shorts 2 pins on 24-pin to turn it on) - Manual - Quick start guide - Power cable - 4 screws Cables 24 pin (Motherboard) EPS12V (CPU) PCIe power (GPU) SATA Molex 1x20+4 2x2 6+2 pin 2x 4+4 pin 10 4 (3+1 on sata cable) Power distribution +3.3v +5v +12v -12v +5vsb 20a 20a 62a 0.3a 3a 100w 100w 648w 3.6w 15w The fan The fan can be set in 2 different modes, a normal and a "hybrid" mode. This can be toggled with a button on the back, unpressed being in this hybrid mode, and pressed in a normal mode. hybrid mode keeps the fan off up to a certain load, with measurements from Seasonic having it start spinning after 30% load with 25 degrees ambient. the normal mode keeps the fan spinning at a lower rpm at this load, but not passively like the hybrid mode. I personally prefer the normal mode, as it's not noticeable over the fans in my case. The fan used here is a FDB (Fluid Dynamic Bearing). This is is a Hong Hua HA1225H12F-Z, rated for 2200 rpm at 12v 0.58a. Personal notes - When installing the PSU in my masterbox 5 lite rgb, i found the 8 pin EPS a bit on the short side, as i could barely reach it on my motherboard. I had to take my cooler out to properly install it. - Most of the cables aren't sleeved, which some might prefer - A 3x SATA cable would've been easier to manage in my case, from experience with the CX550m - The tester is a nice touch - you can't easily dust out the PSU, since the top has to be fully taken off to remove the fan Final Verdict + silent at lower loads (meets blue color requirements as of revision 13.0) + pretty looking + fully modular + choice between semi-passive or always-spinning fan + wide range of cables for a 650w unit + stays well within ATX specification 2.52 (as per measurements by Aris) - doesn't meet 2% low-load requirements (as per measurements by Aris) - doesn't meet gilding requirements (as of revision 13.0) - 8 pin EPS could've been a little longer ? 2x8 pin EPS ? protections set ~140%, but regulation stays fine within it (as per measurements by Aris) ? single rail without options to set multi-rail link to mentioned products: https://seasonic.com/focus-gx https://seasonic.com/focus-px https://seasonic.com/focus-gm https://seasonic.com/focus-plus-gold https://seasonic.com/focus-gold

Hi, I don't know how to do forum stuff. I can't find anyone with the same problem or a solution. My PC freezes for about 5 seconds, updates a single frame and freezes for another 5 seconds when I toggle focus on a fullscreen game. It's the type of freezing that happens when you change the screen resolution (goes black, flickers, unfreezes for a frame, freezes and unfreezes after another 5 seconds). Thank you in advance for any help! Setup: Ryzen 5 1600 rx570 4G 8GB DDR4 2400Mhz Gigabyte AB350 Gaming 3 500GB SSD 1TB HDD 1x 144hz FHD 1x 60hz FHD (OC to 66hz) Windows 10

Hi guys, Reddox here. I purchased a xiaomi mi5s about a year ago, and I have Linused it a few times (droped). Unfortunetly, the screen broke at some point. If fine with that. The actual problem is that the camera eventually stopped working. It still shoots, but it is no longer focusing anymore. To be clear, the camera focuses on the nearest object (I've droped an exemple below). So 3 questions : -Is there a fix, a way to repair it myself ? -If I change the entire screen thing, will they change the camera with it since it is an all in one screen ? -Can it be fixed at all ? Keep in mind that buying a new phone is NOT a option for me, but I can repair it. Peace, Reddox

help me choose the best PSU for my i5 8400 and 1060 6gb 1.seasonic focus plus platinum 650w 2. corsair rm 650x i'm using nzxt s340 elite case, will my PSU fit on my s340 elite? next question, i'm planning to use air cooling which one better? 1.deepcool gammax gt rgb with noctua nt-h1 thermal paste 2. cryorig h7 quad lumi with cryorig thermal paste thankyou and sorry for my bad english

Hello Friends, This is my first post, so I'll try to follow the rules and explain my problem as much as I can... I want to play a game on my TV and at the same time being able to use the PC to web browsing and light photoshop editing on my monitor. I've got my monitor connected to the onboard graphics and the TV to the GPU, the issue is that while I'm playing (I use a Xbox One controller) the game won't take any commands from the controller if someone touches the keyboard or mouse, Windows changes focus to the monitor... I can't find a way to keep focus on two windows at the same time (Chrome and a game) or some application that could force and restrict the inputs from the keyboard and mouse to the monitor and the inputs from the controller to the game (by the way I'm trying to play Dark Souls Remastered). I've searched and to my knowledge is almost imposible to do this without some kind of Virtual Machine or unRAID. I think that some kind of multiple users option would be amazing for Windows 10, more now than ever since we are getting CPUs with plenty of cores (With a Threadripper 2 32 cores for example). If anyone has any idea of how can I play while someone else is using the PC, I'll be gratefull. I hope my english wasn't that bad, I'm from Argentina (We speak spanish) so sorry for any grammatical error. Thanks in advance... My system specs: OS: Windows 10 Pro 64-Bit MB: Asus Z97-E/USB3 (latest Bios) CPU: i7 4790k (with no OC) GPU: EVGA 1070 Founders Edition AND Intel HD Graphics 4600 RAM: 8GB DDR3 Kingston 1866mhz Drives: 120GB Kingston SSD, 1 Tb WD HDD PSU: Corsair 650W 80+ Gold

Hi, I want to make my chrome all tab focused on my chrome browser, by default only one tab focused when clicked, but when I minimize my browser my tab is needed to be focused to continue loading, and I need to stay on the page and wait too long to finish, please help to make all tab focused. Thank you.

Hello. I am intending to buy an Asrock B350 Pro4, a Ryzen 5 1600 and a gtx 1050ti Is this psu good enough? Is it noisy? Thx a lot. Seasonic FOCUS Plus 550 Platinum

See https://heyfocus.com/ for info

Hello, My name is Ethan, and I purchased an Asus M32AD about a year ago. Here are the specs: Power Supply: 350W CPU Cooler: Stock, I think Storage: Toshiba 1TB 7200RPM HDD Memory: Samsung 12GB (8+4) DDR3-1600 Video Card: Asus Radeon R7 240 2GB Motherboard: Asus H81M-E CPU: Intel Core i7-4790 3.6GHz 4-Core I have also moved everything into an NZXT H440 to make room for future upgrades. I have already put together a new partslist for future upgrades here: http://pcpartpicker.com/user/KingShoga/saved/27xhP6. I'm actually looking at an Aerocool VX700W PSU but PCPartPicker did not list that as an option so it says NZXT Vale. I know it may not be the best, but I'm on a budget and definitely need a new video card at some point. I was wondering what I should upgrade first? WEI says the slowest part of the system is the HDD if that means anything. I mostly play Minecraft and like to use custom shaders, high resolution resource packs, and many mods but this R7 240 just can't handle much. What do you think I should buy first?? BTW, I know if I upgrade my video card, I will need a new PSU as well due to this one not having 6-Pin/PCIe connectors.

Well, i bought a Helios 44-2 lens off of ebay for 30€. I freaking love this thing. It has superb build quality and feels extremely good. But there is one problem that´s bothering me. I bought a cheap (but still decent quality) adapter to fit on my Nikon D3300. That makes it impossible to focus on objects which are more than ~3-4m away. I have read that thats due to the narrow build of Nikon cameras. The M42 screwmount can´t go deep enough into the cameras body which alternates the focus point (or something along those lines). I have also read that this can be corrected by buying an adapter housing a additional lens. I searched around on ebay and wasn´t successful finding a trustworthy/quality product. Can anyone reccomend a decent Nikon M42 adapter with lens? P.S. I know that you could modify the housing of the Helios. I don´t want to do that, as i don´t have the right tools to do that anyways. Thanks much love

I have the Nikon d5100 and it has ok focus with a touch of a button but when it does fully-auto that is where it is a pile of crap. it makes loud noses when focusing and it can never focus on me. I need help how can i focus on my self because i can not go focus it when i am in front of the camera so what do i do? (and plz do not tell me to have someone focus for me).

I was considering purchasing Actual Multimonitors, since it has two features I would use a lot. Virtual desktops and ignoring deactivation, keeping focus on fullscreen programs. Now that Windows 10 is implementing virtual desktops, I was wondering if there is any stand alone software that allows deactivation to be ignored like in actual multimonitors.

Hi, I would like to know if anyone knows of a way to set a windows to accept input even if it's not in focus. AKA, in the background. So say I have Firefox open. I'm typing in Firefox. But I also have Text Editor open and it's also getting the same input. So if I type www.linustechtips.com in Firefox's URL bar, it will also type www.linustechtips.com in Text Editor. I was wondering if Unity or some other Windows Manager could do that. Thanks, Vitalius.

My nexus 5 was in my pocket and I must've hit the corner of a table perfectly at some point during the day because when I took my phone out I noticed the glass covering the camera was completely smashed. I turned on the camera and the image looked foggy. Some of the glass broke off in the centre to give the camera a clear view so the camera itself seems to be working fine now except that it doesn't autofocus. I also can't tap to focus. When I tap, it just adjusts the exposure but doesn't focus. The focus is fine for subjects that are at a fair distance but useless for anything within arm's length. I've found this part to replace the glass ( http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LG-Google-Nexus-5-D821-D820-OEM-Rear-Camera-Lens-Cover-/151369197644?pt=UK_Replacement_Parts_Tools&hash=item233e4ea84c ). But given the focusing issues, do you think I would have to replace the camera itself? Thanks

Hey everyone! For the past few months I've been trying to figure out what a good "standalone" camera for solo review/unboxing videos would be. I've got some experience using various DSLRs and SOME camcorders for video recording, however I've continuously run into the same problem when filming videos on my own. It's a huge pain in the butt to try and get decent shots of a video if you're recording it by yourself in a "one-shot" style take. Why? Because the auto-focus on most DSLR cameras I've tried is horrible. It takes way to long to actually focus on the spot requested, and while it's focusing it's making huge jarring movements to the picture. I'm asking around here to know if anyone knows of a camera with not only good quality picture, but also above-average to extremely nice auto-focus capabilities. I'm starting to think that it's not really possible with a DSLR, and that I'll have to start looking into a prosumer style camcorder. I'd also love a camera that can shoot 1080p at 60fps instead of 30fps. I haven't seen a DSLR capable of this, again, only camcorders. Anyone have any thoughts on this?

I was hoping somebody on the forum would be able to help me with this problem I have with my htc One. I bought it secondhand yesterday. I made sure to pick one of high quality using the grading system the shop had. So I traded in my iPhone 5 for this htc One, which isn't very old at all. I was playing around with android for the first time and I think I have a problem with my camera, specifically the focus and lighting. Macro shots are INCREDIBLY sharp no matter how I take them, which is awesome. But if I want to take a picture of something more than four feet away the phone simply won't focus. No matter how many times I tap to adjust it, it won't focus sharply at all... It's almost like it goes clear but then reverts to being just a little soft after, which isnt right. in addition, in low light there is an odd purple tinge to the image, and in complete darkness the image turns red. Adjusting the ISO affects this, so I don't know what the cause is. I'll post some sample images soon. If anyone has any insight into the problem, I'd really appreciate it. Oh and my htc is running 4.2.2 on htc software number 2.24.401.1

Hi guys, So I recently got to purchase (not for myself), an Acer H6501DB. Basically, a native 1080p projector. However, when it's on, there are two areas where the image is darker than the rest. When I focus the entire image, they are almost unnoticeable, but not quite there. So everyone notices the spots where the image is slightly different 100% of the time. When I overfocus the lens, I can clearly see the black spot (100% black, not transparent at all), which has jagged edges. It's not the digital image and I thought it was pixels, but here's the kicker: Each spot is focused at a different focal setting. As in, if I over focus the lens, I can see one spot. If I under focus it (opposite direction), the other spot is focused (or more than it was, as only 1 spot can be perfectly focused). So for further detail on this, imagine that the focus dial turned all the way left is 100% focus and all the way right is 0% focus. At 50% focus, the entire image is focused correctly. At 35%, one black spot is focused, and at 80%, the other black spot is focused. This is without touching the screen size dial. However, the only way to get the second black spot to focus at all is to move that dial. What is my issue? I've heard that it's probably a major imperfection in the lens or the mirror, which is why each focuses at a different setting. If that's so, then I need to RMA it. I was just wanting some other input in case this is fixable in some way. Plus I like to learn anyway and Projectors are foreign to me. Thanks, Vitalius.