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Is it possible to flash a Geforce RTX to an equivalent "Quadro" card? For instance, turning a 3070 Ti into an RTX A4000 (or a 3080 ti into an A5500, or a 3090 ti into an A6000). I just need one feature that is only on Quadro/Professional nVidia GPU; EDID override https://nvidia.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/3569/~/managing-a-display-edid-on-windows I don't care about over/underclocking at all.

Just doing a upgrade on my sons PC as he brought a RX6700 and only had a 500W PSU so got him a modular EVGA 650 B5 and got myself another one for me for upgrade later in the year. Plugging it into the PSU Test and its comes all the voltages are fine green lights all round but the PG reading is Zero and its flashing and bleeping. Tried it on normal and ECO model and still get the same. All cables plugged in Mobo/CPU/VGA/Sata/Molex even the floppy so though I would try the other one I brought and the same thing happens with that. Having both PSU's do this brand new same out the box, surely they both can't be faulty. I've tested an old Coolermaster 500w with the tester and all is good with that went back to the EVGA's and still the same issue. Don't know if its because of something specific EVGA have done with the circuitry with it being Modular and having the ECO mode which is messing the readings up on the tester as its just a bog standard PSU Tester. If anyone can help that would be perfect

Greetings! I have a problem that seems to not be that common and couldn't find a fix after a little bit of searching, so I apologize in advance if I am duping a post. My monitor is flickering specifically when a game is loading or I am in a loading screen. It also flickers when using software like blender, adobe photoshop and unity for just light tasks. It doesn't constantly flicker though, excluding when something is loading in there it also flickers when hovering with my mouse cursor over the screen. It would have been fine if that occurred only when something is loading but it started bothering me when I became using creative software and it distracts me when doing my work. Defining my flickering- my screen seems to be changing the brightness upright(or maybe the gamma, because something scales up also on max brightness) a couple times a second(2-10) when loading something i.e. in a game, the game, a software, or using the software when moving my mouse and loading something in there. I will provide other information, images, or videos if desired. I will be very grateful if you come up with a solution for this. I've heard that the problem isn't really that rare, because it is not bothering gamers when they only see that in loading screens. That may be occurring on high refresh rate LCD panels but I digress. Specifications: Ryzen 5 5600x ryzen master simple recommended OC and smart access memory enabled in bois 16gb ram 3200mhz DOCP Rtx 3070 asus tuf no OC stable game ready driver version 531.18 Aoc c24g1 1080p, 144hz, with drivers from the manufacturer and overdrive on medium from its settings, display port to display port AsRock x570 phantom gaming 4, stable fairly recent(maybe the newest) bois version beQuiet system power 9 600w Windows 10 pro on SATA 2.5 SSD Kingston A400 480GB Theories and additional stuff: The cables and hardware is all seated properly. It is not a hardware issue except maybe the panel technology; I did use ddu when installing my graphics card; I have already did the simple settings like putting g-sync, max herz, and changing the monitor driver from the default windows generic pnp display; The screen doesn't have phisical damage except maybe standart stuff of ware that I haven't looked too closely lately on the panel; Although, I have thrown and hit accidentally the middle top part of the screen with the tip of a ballpoint pen and 5 pixels usynchronized with the colors and are either blue or black but that is an impossible reason for the flickering because I am sure that it was happening since the first day of the system; I have heard that PSU could cause this because some of the flickering problems are related to power. Mine is behaving kinda funny recently. Sometimes it starts doing some high pitch noise but that is probably the fan dying because it became louder than before; It's a curse. I do live a happy satisfying life but "God giveth, God taketh", right? Although I might get success in other beneficial initiatives but I am obliged to get a small counter to this by very tiny and only little irritating problems with my PC. I have had many others like this type and my mind is melting whenever I fix it; The small problems I am talking about might be because I am living in Bulgaria. The fact living here is not particularly the cause but the thing called "third quality" that here is common. The things sold here might be first use, but the quality that gets here is one that barely meets the standard (or maybe not even) for it to qualify for selling. I don't know what we are importing, but I know that we are one of the last in the line. The stuff is sailed first from eastern Asia to the USA, then from the USA to western Europe and only then it is our turn. It is known that it is common practice for the countries from the euro-atlantic cycle to screw us over a lot but I individually can not do anything for that right now. The stuff is so rigged that the problem may be because of the case light at that point... ⣿⣯⣿⣿⣿⣶⣶⣶⣶⣤⣤⣤⣀ ⣿⣿⣿⣿⣿⣿⣿⣿⣿⣿⣿⣿⣿⣷ 　　⠈⠻⣿⡛⠉⠭⠉⠉⢉⣿⣿⣧ ⠲⣶⠖⠄⠄⢿⣿⠄⠶⣶⣾⣿⣿⣿⣿⣧ 　　　⠺⢿⡗⠄⣹⣿⣿⠿⣟⣿⡏ 　　　　⠤⠤⢾⣿⣿⣿⣦⠘⡿ 　　⠈⢻⡿⣷⣶⣶⣤⣤⣤⣶⣦ 　　　⣽⣿⣿⣿⣿⣿⣿⣿⣿⡟ 　　　⠘⠿⣿⣿⣿⣿⣿⣿⣿ 　　　　　⠉⠉⠛⠋

Please refer to the video attached. My monitor suddenly started flashing like this. I checked the wires they are okay. It's not an issue with HDMI cable either cause if I turn on the PC i can see the display but it flashes like this even after that. The Change to Analog to Hdmi(which can be seen in the video in the top left corner) is the source detection mode of my monitor and it does not flash in it. P.S: The PC was turned off when the video was recorded. VID-20230323-WA0024.mp4

Hello, I'm new here and hoping I'm posting on the correct subforum. My 14 inch lg gram's screen flickers from time to time doing regular tasks, but when i take a screenshot for example it happens even more, i havent installed any pirated programs and have all the drivers up to date. I hope you can help me. Here is a video where you can see the problem, thanks again https://streamable.com/n82yfk

Last night I wiped my PC to find a very fun time wasting surprise! :'D After I re-installed Windows-10 I noticed that the default framerate defaulted to 30hz, it's never done this in the past when I've reset it. Once I corrected the rate to 60hz my monitor started flashing, and green and blue lines started appearing too. I have the latest driver from Nvidia installed. I know this issue is not related to my videocard, the HDMI cable, or the monitor as it did not have this same issue before I reset it, so I am not looking for replies on that. > Specs: GTX 1650 Super 16 GB RAM OS: Windows 10 Display Size: 1920x1080

The following is at your own risk. You WILL void your warranty and you risk damaging your handheld permanently. Do not link to, or ask for ROMs, if you want to put ROMs on your G&W you'll need to supply your own and legally own them. This guide is for the Game and Watch Mario version, there are small differences with the Zelda version that I will not cover here. You can do this using a Raspberry Pi, but this guide is for a STLink, you can see the Game and Watch backup github below for help with a Raspberry Pi. Resources ; Game and Watch backup https://github.com/ghidraninja/game-and-watch-backup Discord ; https://discord.gg/rE2nHVAKvn Game and Watch RetroGo https://github.com/kbeckmann/game-and-watch-retro-go Discord ; https://discord.gg/vVcwrrHTNJ Game and Watch mods - Reddit https://www.reddit.com/r/GameAndWatchMods/ --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- What you'll need ; Game and Watch Mario, Triwing screwdriver, PC with Ubuntu (not a live CD OS, a VM with USB passthrough will do), A STLink (original or a small USB dongle one, a JLINK should work but I haven't tried), Soldering iron. --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Accessing the debug pins. --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- OS preparation (you can use another Linux distro, Ubuntu 20.04 is what I used so the instructions I will post are for Ubuntu) Bring everything up-to-date (you can skip this if you think it's not needed). Install dependencies --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Unlocking the Game and Watch Now onto the flashing, but we first need to unlock the Game and Watch, for that we'll need the Game and Watch backup I linked to in the resources. The Game and Watch needs to be connected to the STLink, the battery needs to be disconnected, the USB-C charger connected, and the Game and Watch needs to be turned on. Game and Watch backup ; --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Installing RetroGo on the G&W Once done with the backup, in the same terminal window, type the following commands to start the RetroGo install ; And you're done, power cycle the G&W, unplug the STLink and screw the back cover on and enjoy!

My acer predator keeps flashing on boot up

Hey everyone, I have a Nokia Asha 503 (kinda smartphone). It was working great from last 7 years. The battery still lasts three days easily . The problem is now it is not deleting any thing, deleting but still showing everything corrupted. I did a hard reset, no help. Went to Nokia care, they don't support these phones anymore. Microsoft removed the link to its firmware, and their flashing software is not connecting to the server. Is there a way to flash firmware to it(I also tried flashing a android phone's flashlight on it, no help!) Please help

Hello there, I have encountered a problem, that my new 3200Mhz RAM operates only by 2666MHz even though CPU supports such speeds. Also, I could not undervolt CPU for better battery life. The solution was to access advanced menu in my laptop and change the speed. However, it was not easy due to locked menu, so I decided to make a tutorial for other people, who may have the same problem. My laptop exact model is: HP 15-dw2373ng Series names: HP 15-dw2000HP 15-dw2xxx To unlock the advanced menu there are a few ways for HP computers, but for this model it should be: Pressing repeatedly F10 When "BIOS setup option" shows, immediately press A However, if you have newer BIOS, this option will be disabled. So there are two solutions: Reverting back to old BIOS (downgrading) and hoping that the option will be enabled by default. Modifying current BIOS to enable Advanced menu. I chose to try the first options, because it is easier. First you need to download first version of bios (or as early as possible) from manufacturer webpage (in this case - HP). There can be few or a single BIOS download option, so you need press "See full details" and the there will be BIOS history, where you can download oldest BIOS. Extract .ROM bios file from .exe. This can be done easily by opening the file and going through the menu and in the last step pressing "copy", this should create decrypted BIOS file in selected directory. Buy "ch341a" programmer with a SOIC8 (SOP8) clamp. Do this mod, to make programmer use correct data voltage:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HwnzzF645hA&ab_channel=AdamantIT Download drivers on separate computer (I used SnappyDriverInstaller) and download NeoProgrammer (or AsProgrammer). I used NeoProgrammer because only it supported my BIOS chip XMC XM25QH128A (other names: qh128ahig qh128ah1g ). Disassemble laptop enough, so you could find BIOS chip. Write down a model number. Connect SOP8 clamp and programmer together. Red cable should be in the same direction as leaver and pins in 25xx IC slot (there should be a diagram). Disconnect power from laptop and remove main battery (CMOS battery can be also removed, but it's optional, my laptop didn't have CMOS battery). Connect clamp to IC. Make sure that clamp contacts touch appropriate pins and the red cable should face white dot (mark) on a chip. Instructions for NeoProgrammer (for AsProgrammer there are other tutorials online): 10. Press "Detect IC" and select appropriate BIOS chip (naming may not be exact on the chip, but you can always check datasheet). 11. Press "Read IC" and save dump file in location you want. I created two dump files, in case one has corrupted read. Also check if it is not all F values, because if so, something got wrong and you need to check connections. 12. Press "Off-protect" on an arrow near "Write IC" 13. Press "Erase IC" and then follow by "Blank Check", everything should be in success. 14. Open .bin bios file you extracted earlier from .exe and press "Write IC". 15. Done. You can also read again file and compare Bytes with flashed bios files (HxD program), but it is optional. 16. Turn on PC and wait to initialize BIOS. It should boot normally. After next boot, try to enter bios with F10 + A as mentioned earlier and there should be additional advanced menu. 17. Congrats! You can now change RAM speeds, undervolt CPU or do anything else. If it doesn't show, you will need to modify your BIOS for which I do not how, because easier solution worked for me : ) Disclaimer: I am not responsible for any damage you do to your device. Think before doing anything. Advanced BIOS locked for a reason, you should know what are you doing. Downgrading BIOS may introduce bugs or unsupported features. Also, disable BitLocker or save a recovery file before doing anything (if you have it enabled). This method also Unlocks Manufacturer Programming Mode ( MPM ), so if you may need to lock it again. To do that, there are other tutorials on youtube. Yes, I tried to downgrade BIOS in software. It was a nightmare, basically you need two signature files .s12 and .sig, but manufacturer only provided either of one. It was not successful and clamp method worked great! If you have any questions, don't hesitate to ask. If old BIOS was removed for this model, you can ask me for it. Download links: My laptop HP bios: https://support.hp.com/us-en/drivers/selfservice/swdetails/hp-15-dw2000-laptop-pc-series/32612069/model/38348942/swItemId/ob-280552-1?sku=20F46EA HxD: https://mh-nexus.de/en/hxd/ SnappyDriverINstaller: https://sdi-tool.org/ AsProgrammer: https://github.com/nofeletru/UsbAsp-flash/releases NeoPogrammer: https://download1400.mediafire.com/59n79esmrneg/iczru5dytijx6bf/Ch341a+Programmer+V2.2.0.10.zip

Hi, I was testing if reflashing different BIOS would make video decoding artifacts go away, but ended up reinstalling the system and lost my stock BIOS backup. I've checked just about every component, but it seems that those artifacts are purely GPU related, so I have to ship it back to MSI. Does anyone have stock bios for this card? I've uploaded mine to techpowerup, but it's not listed there, only the non-LHR variant can be found. If you're curious, that's how those artifacts look: Imgur: The magic of the Internet They occur in Apex Legends on bushes and in browser video decoding. Thank you very much in advance!

Hello, a friend of mine asked for my help to check his PC due to display flashing and glitching that it's so messed up(see first picture). So he brought his PC to my place and here's what I found out so far. Scenario: plugged his PC on my monitor using the same cables and peripherals 1. display is still the same, no issue on the monitor/cable 2. driver is already updated 3. Tried my videocard on his PC but still the same 4. Tried his videocard on my PC and it works fine 5. After #3 and 4, I assumed that it was already a board or PCIE slot issue. 5. Bought a bnew same model/manufacturer mobo, tried to install windows but still the same and worse it wont boot anymore(see pic 2) 6. Out of nowhere, tried my RAM on his PC, still the same I'm assuming it's the processor already but maybe some of you guys know the issue. Specs: AMD RYZEN 5 2600 6-Core 3.4 GHz Gigabyte A320M-S2H V2 Motherboard Crucial Ballistix Sport LT DDR4 PC2666 8GB (1X8GB) Memory Seagate Barracuda 1TB 7200rpm SATA3 GIGABYTE RX570 4GB GDDR5 Gaming VGA Card Thank you in advance!

Hi, I am quite to flashing a GPU, or as to how it works. I got scammed quite a while back by buying the GT 730. I decided to open the GPU up to replace the thermal paste and found out it was a GT 430 (GF108-300-A1). I tried flashing it with the latest Nvflash, but I keep getting a Device ID Mismatch Error, is there any way to fix that problem and flash it to, it's original BIOS? I also tried the -4, -5, and -6 override commands

I am currently in the process of using ATIFlash to unbrick a XFX Radeon RX 570 GPU. Though I have a working MSI ARMOR OC 4GV RX570 being used as well. They are both plugged and powered. The bricked card also has no display coming through it, hence why I have another plugged in with it. I do not have any discrete or integrated graphics. Though I would like to fix the XFX, I really don't want any risk of accidentally screwing up my good card. I've already got the BIOS rom file downloaded. I just need a walkthrough to flash it. This is what is showing up on ATIFlash when I start it up: The cards being used: Main Bricked Motherboard: Link I have my main card plugged into the PCIe X16 4.0 slot, and the Bricked in the PCIe X16 3.0 slot. If any of that info helps.

I'm finally upgrading myself from a RX570 to a 2070, but, I wanted to have a little fun as I had a spare XFX RX570 laying around. It's bricked though but I was wanting to try out some stuff with AMD Crossfire as my current main GPU is also a RX570 (Though it's a MSI, but exactly same specs.). I have the bios to flash to the card, but what would be the best method to flash it? I don't want to accidentally flash an incorrect bios to my good card. Link to Bricked Card Link to Good Card Mobo: Asrock B550M Steel Legend

I plugged in the power cables for mainboard and cpu then plugged in the usb stick and turned on the psu. After I pressed the QFlashPlus Button the led next to it started to Blink fast. Then it stopped blinking and now nothing Happens? What does that mean? Is my mainboard now bricked or was the bios already on the newest version?

So, I was playing and suddenly my game froze and after a couple of secs. boom, BSOD and restarts itself. After that, I noticed the NVidia GPU isn't showing in the Task Manager and checked Device Manager, it has that triangle exclamation saying "something.. ERROR 43." I tried flashing its vBIOS and it's still not working. If by any chance, you guys have a ROG Zephyrus G15 (R7 4800HS + GTX 1660 Ti Max-Q) and working, mind if you send me your NVidia vBIOS? I'll try it and hope for the best. Here's a screenshot of what's happening right now. After flashing, it doesn't have that exclamation triangle anymore but it looks like the GPU is kinda like a normal VGA display now or something.

I've recently built my pc and im not getting any display. Tried the readmes and the only thing that might work is the bios update (pc part picker gave me a warning). the question is, how can i update the bios without display Edit: it does post without any beeps or errors

After using a screwdriver to forcefully release the PCIe lock and knocking against the motherboard, I hot-swapped a GPU. I had read online that nVidia and Microsoft had updated software to allow hot-swapping PCIe cards and GPUs. The GPU was not in use (video was connected to onboard graphics). Motherboard will not turn on now but does light up, albeit irregularly.

Hi all! Apologies if this will be a long post but I don't know what else to do and I'm getting desperate at this point. A couple of weeks ago I built a new PC with this setup: Here’s the full list: CPU: Intel i5 13600K GPU: Gygabite Aorus RTX 3070 PSU: Corsair RM1000x RAM: 2x Kingston Fury 16GB DDR5 5200 MHz CPU Cooler: Corsair iCue H115i RGB Pro XT Motherboard: Gigabyte Z690 Aorus elite AX (DDR5) Storage: WD black SN750 The thermal paste I used is Noctua Nt-H1. I start building the system out of the case and I'm ready to do the bios flashback needed by the Z690 to run a 13th gen processor. I connect everything, everything lights up (RGB on motherboard and GPU lights/fans), and I do the bios update with the straightforward bios flashback from Gigabyte. All seems to be working fine, so when it all ends, I try to turn on the system and get it to boot. The system runs for 5 seconds, and then turns off. Since then, it doesn't turn on anymore at all, basically, the motherboard's led flash for half a second, but that's all that happens when I turn on the PSU. I searched for solution/fixes and eveybody told me that unfortunately I had bricked the motherboard. I tried a few things, such as removing the CMOS battery, but didn't work. So annoying. I send it back and order a new one. However, since I didn't want to risk it again, I upgraded to a Z790, so I don't need the BIOS update anymore. Today it finally arrived, I connected it all again to test it and...same exact issue, with the new motherboard. Since then I have been trying to troubleshoot it and understand what is not working. Below a few tries I made, by each component. PSU: Tested the fan connecting the two pins, all working. Also tested the whole system with my old PSU (RM1000, not RM1000x), same exact result. Checked all cable multiple times, connected the CPU fan from the AIO cooler. Storage: tried to remove the WD SN750 and boot the system without any storage. AIO Cooler: tried to tighten a bit the screws. Tried to remove the cooler, remove the old paste, clean it all and put new paste, covering it well and put it back. RAM: removed one stick at the time. Changed channes, both with one or two sticks. Tried to boot with no sticks at all. CPU: Checked all pins. Tried to connect the motherboard without CPU, just to see if the LED went back to be fully on. Motherboard: Checked that there are no shorts, every screw is tightened in the correct way. Changed the material I was building the pc on to check for static electricity. Power outlet: Changed the power outlet I was connecting the PSU to. Nothing of this worked. In any combination above, still a superquick led flash, and that's it. the first time I power the PSU the flash is a bit pink, subsequent times instead stays always red. Now, all the pieces are new and think we can exclude the motherboard being the issues, as I got a complete new one and this time around the was no Bios Update. What could be? I feel I only have the CPU or both stick of RAM malfunctioning as options, but wouldn't the motherboard at least have the led going on withouth them (one at the time)? I'm happy to try and send back the CPU/RAM too after the motherboard, but I would like some advice before doing that, especially because it feels it might not really make a difference? Please help, I really do not know what else to do and I'm currently very frustrated after all these efforts. Thank you!

Forgive me I'm a total noob but this is my laptop:- AMD Ryzen 5 3550H GFX 2.10GHz 16gig Ram Windows home 10 64bit I know this may seem small to some however I suffer from a little OCD which then types my anxiety through the roof and I don't think I can take this much longer without at least trying to find a way to change it. The laptop is great apart from this sentence cursor (I don't even know what this line is called "|" that flashes as your idle before typing) flashes in the bottom left corner of the screen when the screen is dark there or in full view while watching YouTube or a movie. I have attached a screenshot, I tried to Google for it but I couldn't find anything ><. As I said I am a complete noob so please be gentle with me lol.

What is needed to do it? what are the risks in doing it? is it very hard to do? could anyone shed some light on it for me? does it matter wether its UEFI or the older BIOS chips?

Hey guys, I've had this Asus G552VW for almost a year now and I'm pretty happy with it. Until recently. Every time it starts from a cold boot (being off for more than an hour) the screen flickers erratically between black and the actual image or colors of the image. If I wait long enough it will just go away, but it usually fixes itself as soon as I login and it takes me to the desktop. I can usually stop it by pressing the area just above the right screen hinge. So one could only assume it's a hardware problem. But I wasn't expecting this... I tried going in the BIOS setup and BOOM that fixed the flickering it does not flicker when I am in the setup. If I save and quit the laptop will reboot normally without flickering all the way through post->boot->login->desktop. I'm really at a loss. I tried updating to the latest BIOS, but that didn't work. I tried uninstalling my graphics drivers. But to no avail. Please troubleshoot gods, help a man in need. Sincerely, a desperate citizen of Belgium

I finally made it to a stage where nougat was on my phone after one night of tinkering and combining guides ... but my Sim is not working anymore so i want to go back to 3.2.8. I tried to get there myself and i currently have no working android OS and no working recovery. I already tried flashing TWRP multiple times but it doesn't want to work. I had 3.0.3 working on it before but then I tried reverting to backup (without previously wiping) packup included all partitions and was takne on 3.2.8 but on reboot my phone froze in TWRP screen and I had to hard shut down by holding the power button. Currently I have bootloader still working Device tampered: false Device unlocked: true Device citical unlocked: false Charger sceen enabled: false Display panel: (NULL, nothing or hoéver you want to call it - no entry here) Have console: false Selinux type: <none> Boot_mode: normal kmeleak_detect: false force_training: true recovery not working anymore no OS (?) idk it dones't boot so i guess I killed everything that was there If you need more info please feel free to ask for it ... Yes, I did it again and this time I will learn from my mistake, I promise.

A friend wants me to downgrade his Samsung S7 Edge down from Nougat to Marshmellow, but I'm having trouble with the files. Can anyone help me find .tar files usable with Odin? The model number is SM-G935A